I have exactly the same question on another page of this forum. I know this is an old post, but maybe we can open this question up again. What's best? Comfort in city driving and Sport on the freeway or the other way around? Which would give the best economy? I only notice a subtle difference between the two modes.
I was also getting an exhaust or fuel smell after most starts for a couple of months. Couldn't seem to trace it and now it seems to have gone away. Also replaced a weak original battery @ 64,000 miles that was affecting computer operation ( wouldn't allow shifting, but ok with new battery).
Now getting instrument cluster noise after already having defroster flapper valves, motor(s) replaced at 10k & 30k (under warrenty then). Wonder if anyone else having under dash problems (expensive labor to fix)? Also having trouble now with interior master lock, hazard lite, post service reset, and parking lites come on & go off when dome lite does same upon engine kill and remote lock.
My service A indicator is on. I know I can just press the reset button, but it keeps coming back on everytime I start my 2005 Mercedes C230. How do I get rid of this where it won't come back on until another 12K miles? Thanks
I brought the car used from automax in killeen, texas. Does anyone know if there is a 40,000 mile check that needs to be done on the transmission? My transmission went out and i have 50,079 miles and the warranty just went out and it will cost over 3,000 with the discount? I only ask because if that is the case and the dealership never did a lookup on the transmission i should be remibursed. I was told that by the service manager(automax) that they did and when i went to the dealership in garland? that the transmission hasnt been looked @ and it can dectected can anyone one help? Also i pulled up on the internet recalls 2006 c230(power train :automatic transmission) bulletin date:2008 12-01,.. pull it up and see if it has anything to do with any of your vehicals..
Your transmission may not be gone completely. There is a known issue with the transmissions for some solenoids inside that go bad and throw the car into 'limp mode' in that you'll only have second gear. These solenoids are part of the MB Electronics Kit part number 140-270-11-61 and you should check if that's all you need to get going again. The exact parts are also called speed sensors as well by the MB techs.
So before you go for a full replacement it may be worth checking this instead. MB can diagnose the car and know if it's throwing the proper codes to ID this part as bad.
Also, it is wise to replace the fluid on these every 60K miles.
I do a fair bit of car repairs but replacing these seals have got me stumped. I cant get it into the recess at the bottom of the camshaft cover - How does one do that without a shop press and the exact diameter of spacer? I ended up using casket maker to stick it into place as a tempory repair - has anyone tried it?
I have a 2006 C230 sport with 50Kmiles.The cabin air control works fine up until about 4 to 5 hrs. on a hot day. Then the air stops coming into the cabin and flows somewhere else. The blower continues on high but there is very little air flow into the cabin. It does get hot. The temperature control are set very low and changing any of the controls does nothing. This has happened 3 times.. All is well as long as the trip is under 4 hours It does recover with a couple hours rest. But if you try to drive 600 miles in a day..it better be cold outside.
Has anyone had any issues w/ the tires on the C300 4-matic? I have the Sport suspension & am trading it in for a vehicle w/ Luxury Suspension. I didn't have tire insurance on the Sport model and had endless problems w/ the low profile tires. Before I drop $1,000 on tire insurance, any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Also, is the insurance negotiable or a fixed rate?
I'm trying to do as much research as possible before deciding and have read positive reviews on MB C 200 class, but not so much on the 300. We are trading in our BMW because it's had so many problems (off warranty). Thanks for any personal experience comments you can give!
The new C class is great. But only if you get manual. It's designed for it and almost everyone in Europe buys manual. The automatic is something kludged together for the U.S. and rental markets only, and so is pretty much given no attention. It simply stinks for reliability as a result.
But the manual is awesome. (same appleis to BMW, Audi/VW, and Porsche. Manual will make you happy as a clam. Automatic will make you cry eventually.
I can't figure out how to reset the maintenance reminder indicator on my 2007 C350. I've hunted through the owners' manual and can't find it. Does anyone know how to do it?
i have a 07 C230 and was wondering if there is a type of tire to get for these cars.i'm getting alot of wear on the inside and these tires are only six months old.
That said, uniform tread patterns will wear longer and have less issues. That is, if you look at the tire, the tread should be nearly identical if you compared the left and right side of the tread. If it is not like this/is asymmetrical, there's a chance that the tires are pulling or pushing against each other and exacerbating the alignment issue.
Also, the more sipes the tire has, the longer it will last and the better it will generally perform.
I have a c 320, 2003, 89,000 miles. The information center told me to add one quart of oil. When I opened the oil filler cap I noticed an accumilation of thick material that was the color of coffee with alot of cream in it and the consistiency of pudding. Never noticed this before. Everything else seem to work OK with the car ( engine ). I cleaned off this material and added one quart of Mobile 1 synthetic oil. Computer now says oil level OK. No dip stick on this vehicle, as you know. What could this material under the oil filler cap be? Thanks,
Get it to a mechanic now. Sludge and coffee or foamy "cream" colored remnants are a sign that water/coolant is getting into the oil. Sorry to say, you're looking at either a part wearing through like the timing chains sometimes do or a bad seal. (if you're lucky, depending on design), or in a worst case scenario, a bad head gasket or blown rings.
Yes, none of those are nice and friendly, I'm sorry to say. But you might be able to save the engine if you act quickly and get it to a mechanic ASAP. note - one car I had exhibiting such problems didn't last 500 miles before the engine needed to be rebuilt - it can go pear-shaped *very* quickly once it starts.
Also, that engine was not designed to be used with synthetic oil. Mercedes may recommend synthetic, but the basic design that it is based upon assumed that you'd use a high zinc conventional oil. Mobil 1 and most other synthetic oil has virtually none and increased wear in older engine designs can happen. Also, synthetic in any case should be changed every 6K miles - it's not magic syrup that lasts forever. Even GM is finally admitting to just ignore the oil monitor and change it every 6K miles.
I am having the same clunk noise when slowing down, and pretty much exactly as you described 90% of the time. I read further that you found that spring coil was broken, that is exactly what happened to me, I had them replaced but the clunk noise is still there! Can you please update me if you got this issue fixed and how? Thanks so much in advance!
HI, it was my front flex disc on the front suspension end. Once that was fixed the clunk went away. I've not had any other suspension problems I was told I need to get my spring coils changed and will soon but they dont cause a clunk. Rather a rougher ride. Hope that helps. It cost me $400 but I got it done at a dealership I was near. so you might find someone else who can do it cheaper. I love my MB it has now 160,000 and runs like a charm. Only a few minor maintenance things but thats typical for a car 11 yrs old. Hope this helps you out. Let me know if it does.
On C240 ( 2002) have you replaced the Flap Actuators and the related Mode Door Actuator Motors? SWhat is estimated cost of parts and where is lowest cost source for them ? What is estimated cost of labor in hours and $ ?
Comments
Now getting instrument cluster noise after already having defroster flapper valves, motor(s) replaced at 10k & 30k (under warrenty then). Wonder if anyone else having under dash problems (expensive labor to fix)? Also having trouble now with interior master lock, hazard lite, post service reset, and parking lites come on & go off when dome lite does same upon engine kill and remote lock.
Thanks
So before you go for a full replacement it may be worth checking this instead. MB can diagnose the car and know if it's throwing the proper codes to ID this part as bad.
Also, it is wise to replace the fluid on these every 60K miles.
This has happened 3 times.. All is well as long as the trip is under 4 hours
It does recover with a couple hours rest. But if you try to drive 600 miles in a day..it better be cold outside.
Also, is the insurance negotiable or a fixed rate?
But the manual is awesome. (same appleis to BMW, Audi/VW, and Porsche. Manual will make you happy as a clam. Automatic will make you cry eventually.
Also, the more sipes the tire has, the longer it will last and the better it will generally perform.
Thanks,
Yes, none of those are nice and friendly, I'm sorry to say. But you might be able to save the engine if you act quickly and get it to a mechanic ASAP.
note - one car I had exhibiting such problems didn't last 500 miles before the engine needed to be rebuilt - it can go pear-shaped *very* quickly once it starts.
Also, that engine was not designed to be used with synthetic oil. Mercedes may recommend synthetic, but the basic design that it is based upon assumed that you'd use a high zinc conventional oil. Mobil 1 and most other synthetic oil has virtually none and increased wear in older engine designs can happen. Also, synthetic in any case should be changed every 6K miles - it's not magic syrup that lasts forever. Even GM is finally admitting to just ignore the oil monitor and change it every 6K miles.
it was my front flex disc on the front suspension end. Once that was fixed the clunk went away. I've not had any other suspension problems I was told I need to get my spring coils changed and will soon but they dont cause a clunk. Rather a rougher ride. Hope that helps. It cost me $400 but I got it done at a dealership I was near. so you might find someone else who can do it cheaper. I love my MB it has now 160,000 and runs like a charm. Only a few minor maintenance things but thats typical for a car 11 yrs old. Hope this helps you out. Let me know if it does.