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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair



  • I'll check it out and let you know what I find. Thanks!
  • I had the same problem on my 2001 C240. It was a leaking hose in the power stearing system (low fluid level). Once the hose was replaced and the fluid topped off the sound went away and the steering feel returned to normal.
  • tony24tony24 Posts: 15
    My C240 had a problem with noise from the steering this year. The service advisor stated the following "a shield had to be put back in place".
  • have a 95 C220, with 48K on it. When I apply the brakes, the abs sensor light comes
    on and pulsates. It goes out when the pedal is released. It does not light up constantly.
    Any clues as to what this may be? I can't find anything specific about it in the owner's
    manual. thank you.
  • Anyone else have this problem, and more importantly, a solution? I can often be driving in 70~80 degree weather and the temperature is reported fairly accurately, but once I hit traffic, it will sometimes shoot up to over 145 degree f.

    It will gradually go back down, but not all the way, usually staying in the mid 90s.

    If this only affected the display I wouldn't care, but it seems to be linked to the climate control as when the reading shoots up like that the AC comes on.

    If the only solution is an expensive MB service visit I'll just use the climate control on manual and replace the temp display with speed, but if there is some cheap sensor I can replace myself that would be best.

  • Anyone know where to get a decent shop manual for the current-generation C-class? I've seen them for the older models and the E-class, but none for the 01-06 C.

    This would be a real money saver for little annoyances that aren't worth expensive dealer visits.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    To my knowledge, there is no hardcopy manual available for the W203-- yet. You can check by going to a website like Autobooks, if you haven't already done an internet search. I don't think that the traditional publishers, like Clymer and Haynes, have done anything for the US market W203.

    MBUSA offers only CD-based manuals these days, and not at all while a current model is still in warranty status. You should keep checking back with their website, as well, as the traditional "moratorium" period on the current C should end soon.
  • I had this problem once in my 2003 c320. I turned off the engine. started from standstill, and spineed the car for 10-20 yards. Came to standstill. Problem was solved. I think that some of these electronics problems are easily solved with build in reset procedures. For example, some time the windows will not move all the way up or down. In that case hold the window button up or down for 30 sec and that will reset the system
  • Some times the odor is due to accumulated rotten leaves in the area betwween the windshield and the engine compartment, especially if you have humidity in the area you leave. is nothing to worry about
  • My father has an E class and had a minor bump in the front left fog lamp. Behind that there is the temparuture sensor. It was moved from its correct location and would behave as your does because it will recieve hot air form the engine compartment. When you are driving at higher speed fresh air will come and measure again correctly. So check the positioning of your temperature sensor
  • For you rwindows, raise them all the way up or down and hold the button for 30 sec. That will reset the system and then you should be OK. I had this happened twice in my car and the problem was solved. Some times you have to do the reset process for both the up and own function
  • Where should the sensor be on a C-class?
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    Same place - it's a "nipple" that can be seen near the right front fog lamp, front bumper, low. If the lamp has been messed with, it can cause reading problems, or if it's been knocked externally for any reason....or it could just have failed....
  • Right side as in when sitting in the car (passenger side in USA) or right when standing in front of the car looking back at it?

  • tony24tony24 Posts: 15
    That is the same suggestion my service person had but I had to remind him that we don't live in an area where leaves fall. Also, if that was the case my other car would have the same odor. Thus, he then admitted that these cars MB C240 do have the odor problem.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    Don't mortgage your house on this, but I believe it's the right, as in passenger's, side.

    My recollection is that this is hard to miss, but our car is several floors below me as I write this, in our condo garage, so I can't immediately verify it. I thought this was mentioned in the owner's manual somewhere, but I may have imagined that.

    Anyway, the external sensor is indeed subject to damage. However, it has absolutely no effect on what is happening with the climate control in the car - that sensor resides in the overhead console, and has no connection whatever to the external temp reading.
  • I am not positive for the C-class but on the E it is driver's side. Any case check them both.
  • you may be right. However do check the area between the windshield and engine compartment to make sure that there is nothing of any sort that may be giving the odor. In addition do check the cabin filter which is on top of the battery. The battery on these cars is top left as you look at the engine compartment form the front of the car. You will see the positive pole of the batterry and then a black box. That is the cabin particulate filter. Open it and inspect it. In addition, do you have the upgrade airconditioning package or the standard of the c240. If you have the upgraded one (the one that is standard on the c320 and has the alphaneumeric digital readout) then your car must also have the activated charcoal filter. If that is operational most of the time the system cannot absorb humidity as well and you may have a funny odor. As a last resort I would suggest you to put in the car a small open container with baking soda. That should absorb odors that have become "residents" in your car.
    Hoep this is helpful
  • cdurstcdurst Posts: 10
    We have a 2003 C240 and get a "flutter" type noise when we accelerate. It is louder after driving for some time. It has 66,500 miles. On December 16 the dealer did this:
    Cam rocker arms worn locate noise r/r lt and rt valve covers r/r lt and rt camshafts inspect condition ok replace lt and rt set of rocker arms and lifters.
    The problem still exists. Any suggestions or other owners with this situation.
  • is it only when you accelerate? Do you hear it at idle ? If it is ticking it could be the purge valve, which besides beeing annoying, is of no significance
  • Thank you, it was the nipple-thing on the passenger side. Five minutes with the car on a lift and the sensor is back where it belongs and reading accurately.
  • cdurstcdurst Posts: 10
    Thankyou for your response. We don't think the ticking is at idle and is only when we accelerate. It is much louder after we have been driving for a while.
    The service advisor did say something about them putting silencers(?) on a purging something or other by the frame, etc. We know nothing about cars but it was probably the purge valve like you said. I don't see anything on the work order that says purge valve, he told me this on the phone.
    If it is the purge valve, would it get louder after driving for some time? Like you mentioned, it is really annoying especially for a Mercedes that sounds like a diesel when accelerating. Any Suggestions?
    Thanks again for your time.
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    I had the purge valve issue and it was noticeable at almost all times. Sometimes not at all but usually as things warmed up it got more noticeable.

    It's a simple fix.

  • The purge valve is relatively easy to fix and the actual part is cheap (40$). Sound does get louder after driving. It may be more noticable at colder temperatures. It is also posible that the PCV valve (positive crankcase Valve) is at fault. Some people call it also purge control valve, but that is not accurate terminology. Also an easy fix. (in theory you can replase them both yourself). Other things that can make flatter type noise under acceleration, may be loose belts and fans, or leaves or other things that are stuck somewhere. More serious engine things could be maladjusted valves. That is difficult to happen because in these cars valves are auto adjusting. Also do try to use for couple of tanks, gasoline form another Brand name gas-station to make sure they are not selling things they should not. I usually find that AMoco(BP) Ultimate is the smoothest running gasoline, next to Mobil, Hess and Shell.
  • The outside temperature information actually does interface with the inside temperature control! It uses outside temperature information to decide how much power it should use and if it is going to go into recirculation mode to concerve energy and cool faster!
  • Which is why the AC used to kick in even when it was cold outside if the sensor was reading 145 degrees f. My sensor is fixed so hopefully that shouldn't happen anymore.
  • cdurstcdurst Posts: 10
    Thankyou for the prompt response. I will give this info to my service advisor and see where we go from here. I will keep everyone in the loop for future inquires.
    Thanks again.
  • In addition I forgot to mention that exhaust system problems can give you these fluttering noiss. Loose attachments, pierced,broken exhaust pipes.that sort of thing
    Hope good luck
  • cdurstcdurst Posts: 10
    Thanks again. It sounds like the purge valve because it does get louder after driving and it just started doing it the last month or so when it got colder.(Especially at night)
    We'll let you know. Sincerely.
  • i have the same problem with something discharging the battery. it turn out to be the driver side power seat control moduel. cost 300.00 for parts and 2 hr labor inclued trouble shoot and installation. total 500.00. its been one week now, i will cross my finger for the problem not going to come back.
This discussion has been closed.