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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair



  • I am also having noise problems with my 1998 C230 differential. We bought the car used and noise started shortly thereafter. I bet the sellers put a bananna in the diff to quite it down. Now I am wondering what yr/model used differentials will work in my car as I will start looking for a good used one. gear ratio is 3.27. Will any of the compressors differentials work OK ? Thanks for any info.

  • I am trying to determine which differentials will work in my 1998 MB. Gear ratio is 3.27. Since I am hopeful of finding a good used one, can I expand my search to the Kompressor models as well. Mine is not a Kompressor and is an ABS type. Must I limit my search to 1997-1998 C230 only? I'd like to fine a lower mileage differential if possible. Thanks

  • i just purched c230 couple days ago with 86miles on and the same day car drifts sharply to right(car was delivered to me by dealer),took it to the dealer and said the missing camber bolts installed.still doses the same problem, took it to the different dealer did alingnent again but not solved the it common problem for c230? :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • This is a problem with these cars and it will only become a bigger and very expensive problem in the future.To answer your question, No this should not be a common problem. Now, Depending on your state you might be able to take the care back for a full refund if it has not been over three days or a specific mileage limitation.
    Again, it depends on the your state. Your state might not have such a law please check. You might want to look into the lemon law or the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act Law to see if anything can be done to assist you.

    You should do your best to get out of this car now. Your problems are just starting. The decision is up to you so do your research asap.

    Did you get the extended warranty on the car at the time of purchase?
    If you did not and you find that you must keep the car, you should then speak to the dealer about getting a discount on the purchase of an extended warranty.
    If you did get an extended warranty on the car then you probably saved yourself a lot of money on repair charges in the future after the factory warranty is over.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    Good grief - the first thing is not to talk about invoking lemon laws. This is a simple problem, but you need to find a tech with a little bit of imagination to help solve it. Often, the staggered tire setup on the "sports pkg" causes these cars to drift more than they should - it is one of the reasons I avoid the sports package cars, but since you have one, the solution to your problem is to have the alignment tech crank in a little MORE CASTER on the side that is causing the drift. In this case, if it is pulling to the right, a bit of extra caster on the right side should solve the problem.

    Too many techs think that if the car is within the factory spec on the alignment rack, then that's the end of the story. Our C240 with the standard suspension setup wanted to drift left, and the tech involved came up with the idea of a little extra caster on the left side - problem instantly solved.

    [Caster is the angle of the suspension as viewed from the side, and measured as a deviation from the straight vertical - most cars have a little positive caster. More caster causes the car to resist changes in direction - less causes it to want to turn more easily].

    The camber bolts were not "missing"; the cars are shipped from the factory one way, but any attempt to change the alignment after the factory setting means the use of the "bolt kit", which the tech installs before alignment can be modified. I don't know why they do it this way, but this has been MB's practice for years.

    Finally, since the sports package cars have staggered tire sizes, you can only swap the front tires side-to-side, and then only assuming they are not a unidirectional tread design. IF you can swap them, that is always a first thing to do in chasing a pulling problem.

    Get the dealer service advisor to sit with you and the alignment tech in the same place at the same time and discuss a strategy to solve the problem - and "they all drift to the right" is not the answer.
  • The solution you have described has been tried on my MB. The problem still comes back. You probably have a great tech or know a lot about cars but not everyone is that fortunate. It is great that you are able suggest how this person might go about fixing this problem.

    It should be noted that I was pointing out some options this person might have since the car was bought recently. Again, you gave your option to a possible fix and that is great. The purpose is to try and assist each other in this forum. I hope that whomever has to make this decision can do so knowing that he or she has options.

  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    ....and my point is that there are things to do before getting lawyers involved. Once you've exhausted all of the reasonable alternatives, then and only then is it time to talk about buy-backs and compensation.
  • The dealer replaced the AC controls on the dash. They pulled the entire unit and replaced it with a new control panel. The original control panel had clear red and blue thermostat buttons which have been replaced with cheaper looking buttons. I have an extended warranty to the job was free for me. Expect to pay at least a $500.
  • ...On my 2000 C230, I have been getting a "Magazine Empty" warning when trying to play the CD changer. I have checked and re-checked the magazine, switched CDs, made sure they were facing in the right direction--nothing. In the past, perhaps once or twice a year I would get a "No CD Changer" message, or some, but not all, of the discs would play. After removing and reinserting the magazine and restarting the car, the messages would clear up. I called TeleAid over the weekend, and the rep said it could be a "bad sensor." Even though I have an extended warranty, I am fairly certain the CD changer is not covered. I remember something I read about earlier which involved (IIRC) removing and replacing a fuse, and resetting the radio code. Is that an option, or is it time to visit the dealer? As I said, minor compared to previous posts, but I wanted to run this one past all of you first.
  • bhw77bhw77 Posts: 101
    Does anyone know how to reset Oil Monitor on C230 Kompressor?
  • It sounds like the CD changer isn't recognizing the the CD's. Most likely, you will have to replace the changer. Most dealers offer remanufactured units, which carry a warranty and save you $$$.
    Hope this helps.
  • g17g17 Posts: 45
    Well my MB experience has been soured by numerous trips to the dealer for repairs. Earlier this year, my digital display malfunctioned, basically it was unreadable. It was replaced under warranty, @ a cost to the dealer of ~$1200, (2days shop time).
    Prior to this it had problems with the sunroof, windshield wipers, oil sensor(2x) and maintaining alignment.

    Well 1 month after the digital display went, the trans started acting up and shifting irregularly. I took it to the dealer, and after 2 days diagnosis it was determined that the car needed a transmission REPLACEMENT. In additon it needed a new radiator, trans cooler, torque converter and an oil sensor. :lemon:

    3 weeks at the dealership and ~$6200 worth of warranty work later, the car is running OK. This will be my 1st and last MB. Thankfully it is a lease, and I will be able to upgrade to a Lexus next year. It's too bad for MB, since I'm the type of buyer they want to attract & retain. ie. Getting and entry level lux car first, and then returning for a larger, more $$$ model on subsequent leases/purchases.

    Needless to say I will get an IS350 or GS300 instead of an E350 next year. Good bye Mercedes.
  • Picked up my new C230 last week. I like as much as my past Cs except that when I pull out in traffic, it seems like it nearly stalls, like it's starting out in 2nd gear. Yes, I have the Summer/sport setting correct on the transmission, but it might be the gearing in the new 7-speed transmission. The motor has plenty of power so I don't thinkit is under-powered.
    Anyone else encountered less than steady/smooth take-off in the 2006 C230? Like I said, it feels sort of like it does if you started out in second gear when you really have to jump on it when pulling out in traffic. I will probably take it in soon but was looking for experience of other new owners first. Any ideas? thanks
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    I have heard about the need for software updates for the new transmission, though this could just as easily be an ECU or electronic throttle issue - the dealer may already know of an update for this. I was at the local guy last month to have a minor issue dealt with, and while waiting, I saw a list of the TSBs out in August - there were a number involving the software for the new transmission.
  • The hot water will not turn off I have cold air coming out of the center vent and hot air coming out side vents. Set to max cold can any help
  • mustumustu Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2003 C230k and it seems like the accelerator takes a lot of effort to push down. To the extent that if I'm out driving for a couple of hours my leg hurts afterwards. Is this something that can be changed? I could be that I'm just not used to it. BTW, my other car is a 2002 VW Passat and I don't have any issue with the accelerator in it.
  • Thanks for the info. I was by there today and asked the salesperson about the hesitation and she said she had heard it from others. I am going to check with the service dept. next week to find out about TSBs that may exist to fix it.
    I just hope I'm not stuck having to have the hesitation. Sometimes it takesoff as you would expect, then, you pull across oncoming traffic and nearly get killed! This can't be considered acceptable characterstics of a M-B, even an inexpensive one can it? Other than that, the car seems great so far.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    I'm working on my 14th MB since 1968, and every one of them has had a very heavy throttle feel. You either get used to it, or I guess sell the car, because there are no adjustments. After awhile, jumping back into something else [especially anything Japanese] feels like there is nothing attached to the pedal. Anyway, it is what it is....
  • mezecamezeca Posts: 66
    All is not perfect in Lexiland either. Just look at all the ticked off people with the transmission hesitation problem. I hope your GS is better than the guy who's power steering pump failed at 1500 miles, and is now waiting for a backordered part out of Japan.
  • Bogeyman1,

    I'm curious about how your car was lowered. It sounds as though you are getting interference between either the tire or wheel and a suspension component, e.g., shock absorber or spring, or possibly the inside of the wheel wheel.

    Often when cars are lowered, errors are made in the fitment of the springs, wheels, tires and body. This often occurs when +2 wheels are used which are much wider than the stock wheel width.

    Please find out who did the work. Check out for advice on the proper fitment for the wheels and tires on your car. There are a number of measurements which must remain the same when swapping out stock wheels and tires for aftermarket combinations. Tire Rack should also have advice on the proper springs/shock absorber combo for lowering your car.

    If the tires and wheels are within proper dimensions, the problem may be that the suspension was lowered a tad too far, thus causing some interference.

  • marcegmarceg Posts: 8
    I believe pior to the '03 MY the C240 had the REST feature. I have an '03 C240 and found (by searching another discussion board) that it actually has the REST feature even though the button is not marked on the climate control. When I press and hold the "AC off" button for a few seconds, the REST feature starts. I believe it circulates air for 30 minutes. Not sure if this "hidden" feature was still available on '04 or later MY C240s, but worth a try.

    I also have been having problems with a strange odor in the interior of my car. I only notice it after the vehicle has gotten wet (e.g., rain, car wash). It's there when I first open the car door...before even starting the car. It's an awful smell, reminds me of rotten onions and/or a natural gas type of smell.

    I purchased the vehicle new, and only started having this problem after I had driven it for 1.5 - 2 years. I just visited my local dealership for the 6th time for this problem, still without a solution. They've supposedly cleaned the entire system out twice (I'm not exactly sure with what, but I had to wait for a few months until some new "equipment" arrived from Germany), replaced the cabin filter twice, and eventually replaced the evaporator in May of this year. Although replacing the evaporator initially eliminated about 95% of the odor, the smell has been slowly increasing is almost back to where it was prior to the evaporator being replaced. I've read there's a newly redesigned evaporator that is supposed to solve this problem. My dealership stated the one they installed in my car back in May was the redesigned one, but I'm not positive that it is.

    I'm curious if anyone else has had this problem successfully resolved, and if so, what the fix was. If you recently (last couple of months) had your evaporator replaced, was it the redesigned one? (If you have the part number, please let me know what it is so I can compare it to my invoice.) Thanks.
  • g17g17 Posts: 45
    I think I'll take my chances. ;)

    I don't think there is anyone in the automotive industry that can make a straight-faced claim them Mercedes is more reliable the Lexus.....even MB execs, although they won't publicly admit it.
  • atrainatrain Posts: 2
    I am considering buying a 2006 C230. After I build my own on I come up with a MSRP of 36,010. I have great credit and can give some cash at purchase time.
    Can I get Less than MSRP?

  • i was offered $1400 off msrp and kelly blue book for my trade for a C350.
  • I bought my brand new C230 K in May, so far I put on 4000 miles. I'm a very careful driver, yet I had to touch up the paint on my car twice already. First on the door, which I thought was just somebody banging their door against, but yesterday I had to touch up a spot on my hood.
    I had 3 cars before this one and I had never had problems before. Is it just me or is the paint job on the C230 very "weak"?
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    There's nothing wrong with the paint. Just one moment behind a truck is all it takes to nick the paint on the front end, including the hood.

    All water-based paints are more prone to chipping than the old oil-based enamels, but that is all the industry uses these days over concerns about air pollution at the factories. In my experience, the Japanese actually seem to have a few more problems than the Germans in this regard.

    If you've got 4000 miles and have had to touch up only two spots, consider yourself lucky.
  • Thanks for the reply, that actually made me feel better. Here is another question: Once in a while my engine makes a weird "rumble" noise, it starts after I've driven the car for a while. It can last for quite a while, is this just Kompressor making that noise? Can you tell that I'm "mildly" obsessive compulsive about my "new" baby.

    Oh, and what kind of winter tires do you guy's recommend? I live in the snow belt.

    Thanks again!
  • billp8billp8 Posts: 56
    MB of Hagerstown will do a "core exchange" with your original CD changer, and supply a remanufactured one with warranty. I would like to pick up the new unit (apparently smaller than mine, which, to my eyes, looks like an old VCR) on a Saturday (service dept not in). To pick up my new changer, I need to leave my old one. I have searched this and other websites to try to find removal instructions/diagrams for the CD changer--to no avail. One site had a "partial" pictorial guide. IIRC, there are just two cables to undo, and of course removal from the trunk-mounted bracket. Anyone out there have any other removal info/guidance/instructions?
  • waade7waade7 Posts: 3
    The engineers put a governor on the brake pedal that reduces the effect of the accellerator. If you press both the brake and the accellerator at the same time the gas only has a small effect. If you're applying gas and still have the brake pressed then let go of the brake the car kind of leaps foreward. When the brake is touched while already in motion and the gas pedal is being applied the car seems like it is stalling. I've heard there is a USB plug in where a PC can be plugged in and if you have the program these settings can be changed or disabled.
  • Thanks but I'm a little confused by your comments. I drive only with my right foot, using only the brake or accellerator at a time. Are you saying that, as I release the brake with my foot, if it is not fully backup, the accellerator will be only partially effective until the brake fully comes back up? That would make sense if that is what you mean, but I can't imagine the logic M-B used to add that governor.
This discussion has been closed.