I forgot that the spark plugs need to be changed at 100K mi... I went ahead and traded in the Benz for an SUV. I got a great deal on both the new car, and the trade-in on my C240.
47,000 miles both front and rear making noise(bushings?), fuel sending unit just went, & now check engine light is on and car is driving rough. I believe it is oxtgen sensor. Is this common for the C class. Thinking of trading it in for a 2006 C280. Feeling on the 280 anything to look out for? Also do you think the rought drving (check engine light) is a oxygen sensor? :sick:
Hi I am an owner of a Mercedes Benz C240 1998 European model and I am noticing that on many occasions the vehicle refuses to pass 4000 RPM, the fuel does seems to shut down after [non-permissible content removed] passes 4000RPM. Another issue is that if the vehicle is not properly warmed, it stutters and refuses to drive normally, not sure what is the cause.
Sorry I didn't read your message sooner. It's been a busy winter. If your ESP light is still coming on it could be any of many things, some irrelevant and some serious. When my 2001 C240 was new the light came on about 3 times in the first year. I'd take it to the dealership (it was under warranty) and they didn't find anything. They cleared the codes and that was that. Eventually I got tired of wasting days out of my life visiting the dealership for nothing. The worst that can happen if your ESP does fail is that the car drives like a car that doesn't have ESP.
HOWEVER, in later years I found out that the ESP light is a catch-all for all sorts of problems. In my case (when the car was 5 years old) it was trying to tell me that the innards of my fuel pump were decomposing and clogging up my recently-replaced fuel filter. That has nothing to do with ESP.
Bottom line: you can ignore ESP for awhile but get it checked eventually because it just might be trying to tell you something serious.
I'm still hoping Lexus will come out with a manual transmission so I can trade in this cantankerous vehicle that's "engineered like no other car in the world"... thank goodness.
I can't find an answer to this question, so i hope somebody can help me here. Why does the 2006 C230's fuel economy is 21/30 and the 2007 C230's is 19/25. They both have the same 2.5L V6, 7 speed auto. The new EPA guidelines are not in effect until the 2008 models come out.
It could be to the intake manifold is a different size. They could have made a slight adjustment to the size of the intake manifold runners for smoother exceleration or more power.
I have gotten the Undervoltage Consumer Defective message several times, then it went away. Thursday got alternator/battery warning light. When I tried to start it Sunday it was dead. I installed a new battery and am getting no error message. Why did that message come on? Could it have been the battery? If the alternator is not charging should I get an error now? Thanks.
I am having the same problem on my 05 c240 4matic. At least once or twice a month the navigation/sound system just stops working. The dealer has NO CLUE how to fix this (of course, everytime I take it in to be fixed, the stereo and nav are working!). A small prayer before getting in the car and starting it up doesn't work either! Any ideas on how to fix this? When it happens, I am able to open up my CD changer and remove CDs, but I cannot open the command navigation screen and get to the individual cd unit.
At 53,010 miles, the engine began shaking while idling at stop light, and the "Check Engine" warning light lit up. We had the car towed to Buena Park (southern Calif) dealer. They found a cracked air hose (something to do with the compressor), and replaced it. We bought this car in May 2004, and did not expect the air hose had cracked so soon. We begin to wonder what may be next. :confuse:
Cracked vacuum hose can be from anything. The MAS air sensor wasnt getting enough air because of the leak. It causes the car to hesitate and that ttrips the check engine light. Hot climate. Salt from winter. Both of those will dry rot any hose. That has happened to all cars. I wouldnt consider a 2 dollar vacuum line a major or worrysome fix. Wait, you did take it to the dealer so you probably paid 800 dollars. haha
my sister has a c280 and she had a problem that when she came to a stop light and went to go again it did not go right away and then it would go ,now I went and drove the car and tried different driving styles,hard takeoffs,slow takeoffs, sudden stops, normal stops, slalom course and it did nothing wrong and she said it would happen after only a couple of minutes and I drove it for over 20 any help thanks
I own a 1999 C230k (112K miles) that had the wiper motor replaced 3 years ago and worked fine, but now the in/out motion is intermittment. it goes left/right without any issue. Any ideas or should I just have the motor replaced again?
My 1999 C230K has a crazy A/C system. For some time (maybe years), the AC acts completely irrational. The fan speed is independent of the controls. It changes from high to low on a whim. Setting the control to the zero postion does not turn off the fan. It cools sometimes, but will have sudden/dramatic changes to blasting hot air. It only affects the driver side, the passenger temperature control works fine. I do have a coolant leak that requires a AC charge once or twice a year (or 2K to repair). Any ideas. Am I doing something wrong or is the system haunted?
Hi, I plan to get the 2008 C300 Sport Sedan later this month. Before I make this decision, I want to do more researches on the cost of this car's maintenance. such as oil change, brake and other routine check-up.... Thanks!!
2008 C300 is nice. I like it. You get a 5 year 50k mile warranty from the factory. I have never paid for oil changes on mine. Still under warranty. Service A's are every 10k miles. They change the oil at that time. I have never paid for anything on mine. Has 40k miles. 2004 C240. No issues except the battery was dead one day at around 38k miles. It was replaced under warranty. No biggie. Could happen to any car.
I just bought an 07 C230 sport and I was told the following: Mercedes no longer offers a maintenance program. The only high end company that does is Audi and you have to pay for it now. Oil changes in my area (Chicago) run around 100 dollars and only need to be performed every 10,000 to 13,000 miles. Brakes all depend how you drive the car. Warranty is now 4 yrs. or 50,000 miles, but I extended mine to 6yrs 75,000 miles. There is a routine check-up performed between 1,000 and 3,000 miles. This is just a diagnostic check-up to make sure the car is performing at its best. Just got mine 2 weeks ago so it's kinda fresh in my mind. Hope this helps.
More than likely it's the fuel gauge sending unit in the fuel tank. The fix would involve changing that part out. Access to the tank may be possible under the rear seat making the job easier, but I don't know if that's the case on that model year.
It could be the instrument cluster, but usually it's the sending unit that goes bad.
I own a 2000 C230 MB Kompressor, I love the car !!, Owned it for 4 yrs now, purchased 11/2003 used with 85,000 miles. Currently has 125,000 miles. It is my first MB ever owned and hoping to have it for a long time. Never had a serious mechanical problem, never any motor problems. Regular maintenance done when required. (just recently had motor belts replaced, were dry and starting to crack, and new battery, both items first for the car) The only thing I had to have repaired while owning this car was the feul gauge stopped working/registering amt of feul in gas (always showed empty even when tank filled up)and got that fixed. The past month while driving, while slowing down from 20 mph to 0 mph will feel/hear a clunk underneath center of car, perhaps transmission downshifting? Does this 90% of the time when coming to a stop or slowing to this low speed,is that normal for a car this age? also periodic hard shifts in lower gears, when gradually speeding up or slowing down. (It doesnt do this all the time either approx 80% of the time. It Does shift into the gears just hits the first couple gears hard when does. The higher speed gears do not feel any shifting. Is this going to be an expensive transmission problem? This by no means is a complaint about MB. Wonderful car (last yr of this body style before newer 2001 body style came out) :shades:
Hopefully it's just the engine or transmission mounts causing the issue. They shold be a bit sloppy by now given the age and mileage you have noted. Extra play in the mounts would account for the noise your hearing.
It was never a recall - it was/is a Service Bulletin, something the service people are supposed to refer to if a customer complains of specific symptoms.
And, while I don't think it applies to your car, which is the previous generation C, it certainly wouldn't hurt to ask if you're seeing similar symptoms. There may or may not be commonality between the cars on this particular part.
thanks for the very quick reply. I will have it checked this week and post the outcome. I forgot to mention in my previous post when I stated the feul gauge stopped registering amt of gasoline in tank & was repaired. The reason the feul gauge stopped working was the feul gauge sensor. (@ 110,000 miles in 6/2006) MB tech. replaced that and no problems since.
I purchased a used 2006 C280 4matic with 10,400 miles on it..(it was a service loaner)in April 07 and have had nothing but problems with it since..biggest complaint is that it seems to always be pulling to the right, feels like I'm always fighting the steering wheel, (normally I love German steering, just came out of a VW Passat W8 4motion and loved it, had an Audi A6 before that, best car I ever drove!)
First month I had brought it back to the selling dealer and they replaced one of the tires and balanced wheels; that didn't help, then different dealer told me the tires had "bump" in them, probably from sitting too long, so the first, original selling dealer replaced the tires all around (same brand, Conti Touring Contacts), and aligned it; still had the same problem.. went back, they aligned it again, also replaced transfer case oil because of a clunking noise in back of car, still had same problem so brought it back and now when the lead mechanic drove it with me he tries to tell me it's just "normal road cresting" and not alignment or any other problem, he feels no pulling and car is "driving as it is designed to drive", also claims clunking noise is now "normal tire noise" (Huh?) and said car didn't need any servicing at all, just take it home....
I am so disgusted with this, I would love this car and its terrific engine (other than the cheap, not-fully-power seats), if not for this pull to the right and having to fight the wheel all the time (which I'm worrying is more than just alignment problems and might be dangerous). Might also add that it is incredibly rough and noisy on any kind of road that is not smooth or brand new! I feel every little bump in the road, might replacing the tires with Michelin's help in any way?
If this is what MB's are supposed to feel like, which I'm assuming they are not, then I would never consider this car again, under any circumstances.
Has anyone else had these problems? Any suggestions? I'm truly at the point of wanting to get rid of it as soon as possible, ... knew I shouldn't have bought used!!!
Thanks for any help anyone might be able to offer..
This is, unfortunately, something that comes up every once in a while. You need to tell the alignment tech to add a bit more caster to the side that is pulling. There is a reluctance among the techs to do this because they're trained to hit the factory specs, and call it OK if the car is within the specs. Our C240 had a pulling problem that was cured once the senior guy at MB Sacramento did a little thinking and just made the caster settings a bit different on each side - voila, the car tracked like a train for the rest of its life with us.
If you don't know caster from camber from toe-in, have the tech explain it to you. More caster makes the car a bit more reluctant to turn in that direction...less caster has the opposite effect. To correct pulling, you just need to make the car want to move a bit less in that direction. But first you have to find an alignment tech who is willing to think outside the box.
Thanks so much for you answer. I will indeed bring it back to them along with this information. Let's hope they're willing to resolve this. Thanks again..
As an aside. Regarding their comments that 'it's normal' and 'that's the way it is', just have them take you out in a similar example of your vehicle. I am sure they have a bunch of vehicles like yours. If the other examples handle as poorly and make as much noise perhaps they are correct. I would be very surprised to find that they are all like that.
When you're done, the right and left sides will have DIFFERENT caster settings...as opposed to setting them the same, which is what they're trained to do. The side with the higher caster will be a bit more reluctant to turn, which is what you want.
Hi everyone, I have a c200 cdi of 1999 (station wagon. My cooling fan was damaged so I am looking for a new one. I have been searching a lot on the web but I have found nothing for my model. Instead I have found this spare part on the internet (OEM Mercedes W202 Cooling Radiator Fan C230 SLK230 E320), which seems a lot as the spare parts I am looking for. My question is that does this part fit with my car as well?
Hi, I have 2002 C240 Classic and it has been nightmare since I purchased it in 2003. I always have this shaking coming from rear right wheel side, including brake shaking. I changed tires three times, changed rear springs, for some reason any tire that I install on right rear gets damaged. I do not know what to do anymore. Did anyone ever experience somethnig like this? Someone suggested to me to change rear shocks. Also it is always pulling to the side too. This is the worst vehicle I had in my life.
Is the damage or wear on the inside or the outside of the tire? It sounds like you need an alignment bad. You can do that at any tire place. You dont have to go to the dealer. It might cost you about 90 bucks. Also are your rotors warped. If the steering wheel is shaking, you need new rotors or you can have your existing rotors resurfaced. Again, you can go other place besides the dealer. Hope this helps.
Having trouble with the ignition and or key. Key will open door, but will not work in the ignition. Key is worn, don't know if I may need new one or a new ignition. Service manager said most offen it is the ignition. Bought one, but can't figure how to take the old one off, so I can't put the new on. Looking for manual for dummies. Any and all suggestion appreciated. Thanks.
I am considering a C300, but Consumer Reports has little good to say about MB. It is the only car manufacturer that CR does not recommend any of its cars. If you look at a CR list, you will be surprised at what they do recommend. I am hoping MB will get the C series right this time. Whether it is covered by warranty or not doesn't matter if it can't be corrected or has to be taken in several times.
We have 5000 miles and two months on our '08 C300 Lux. All I can tell you is that our car is issue-free....tight, quiet, everything works. This is our 15th MB [my 54th car overall since 1962], and probably the best car we've ever had. [Yes, we owned an '02 C240, which was not trouble-free, but was not a bundle of problems, either - this car beats it in every conceivable way.]
The headlamps settings dont make sense to me. What are the steps to turn the Low Beam Head Lamp on? I dont really understand the steps stated in the manual. When I try to set it up myself, I end up having the Low Beam on with the front fog lights also getting switched on. If I keep the head lamp setting to auto "A" the High beam indicator shows up and the light mode switch to High Beam. :mad: The dealer kind of didn't explain this to me clearly and I can figure out how to keep the lights on low beam with the fog lights switched off....can anyone help?
found a 2004 fully loaded automatic 2004 MB C-230 sedan in silver. It has 67,000kms on it. They are asking $24,000. Is it worth that much, or would you not even bother thinking about it because the kms are so high?
this is the secondary restraint system (airbags;seatbelt pretensioners)warning light. You don't turn it off. You should get the codes read for it to see what's up. The technician can clear the light but if you don't fix the problem it'll come back on. Might just be a simple sensor defect. In any event, you may now be without an airbag, so that's not good.
Okay, i just clocked 1,500 mls on my 2008 C-Sport and the parking brake pedal fell off... WTF? I rarely apply the parking brake so I'm wondering what may dislodge itself next? Still Loving the car but quite disappointed that this happened already.
With mixed feelings, I really like the 2008 C-class sport. I have a 2000 BMW 328i now and I swore off European cars, but ironically considering the MB. At least BMW took care of all initial maintenance cost within 50K miles / 3 years. So what is the MB cost like and is it equivalent to BMW? My current BMW cost are: 1) Oil change every 8000-10000 miles = $100 (dealer) / $70 (independent) 2) Inspection tune up every 30000 miles = $800 (dealer) / $500 (independent). I never got just a tune up because they always say this and that about to explode unless it was fixed immediately.
I have an 04 240. My dealer takes care of everything until 50k. All oil changes and everything. I dont pay for anything. I'm at 42k miles and not one issue with the car.
The so-called A service occurs first, at 13k miles or one year, and will be comparable to a BMW oil change at the dealer [the oil alone at dealer prices is over $50 - over 2 gallons worth]. The next service is the B, which occurs at the second year or 26k miles, and will cost twice as much if you let the dealer do it - say on the order of $300. That schedule continues for the life of the car, plus some fluid changes that are calendar-dependent: brake fluid, coolant, and a one-time transmission change at 39k miles.
Over the long haul, I think $500-$700 a year is a good figure to be setting aside as a mtc reserve. For just the first 3 years, I'd figure about $800-$1000 total if done by the dealer.
Comments
I went ahead and traded in the Benz for an SUV. I got a great deal on both the new car, and the trade-in on my C240.
HOWEVER, in later years I found out that the ESP light is a catch-all for all sorts of problems. In my case (when the car was 5 years old) it was trying to tell me that the innards of my fuel pump were decomposing and clogging up my recently-replaced fuel filter. That has nothing to do with ESP.
Bottom line: you can ignore ESP for awhile but get it checked eventually because it just might be trying to tell you something serious.
I'm still hoping Lexus will come out with a manual transmission so I can trade in this cantankerous vehicle that's "engineered like no other car in the world"... thank goodness.
I was told it is normal.
Dont't you love it? Aren't dealers helpful?
Well. . .
Thanks!!
Mercedes no longer offers a maintenance program. The only high end company that does is Audi and you have to pay for it now. Oil changes in my area (Chicago) run around 100 dollars and only need to be performed every 10,000 to 13,000 miles. Brakes all depend how you drive the car. Warranty is now 4 yrs. or 50,000 miles, but I extended mine to 6yrs 75,000 miles. There is a routine check-up performed between 1,000 and 3,000 miles. This is just a diagnostic check-up to make sure the car is performing at its best. Just got mine 2 weeks ago so it's kinda fresh in my mind. Hope this helps.
I think you'll find that the only high-end company that does is BMW. Audi discontinued their included (free?) maintenance a couple of years or so ago.
It happened after I filled up. Has anyone else had this problem? What did you have to do to fix?
It could be the instrument cluster, but usually it's the sending unit that goes bad.
Good Luck.
The past month while driving, while slowing down from 20 mph to 0 mph will feel/hear a clunk underneath center of car, perhaps transmission downshifting? Does this 90% of the time when coming to a stop or slowing to this low speed,is that normal for a car this age? also periodic hard shifts in lower gears, when gradually speeding up or slowing down. (It doesnt do this all the time either approx 80% of the time. It Does shift into the gears just hits the first couple gears hard when does. The higher speed gears do not feel any shifting. Is this going to be an expensive transmission problem? This by no means is a complaint about MB. Wonderful car (last yr of this body style before newer 2001 body style came out) :shades:
And, while I don't think it applies to your car, which is the previous generation C, it certainly wouldn't hurt to ask if you're seeing similar symptoms. There may or may not be commonality between the cars on this particular part.
First month I had brought it back to the selling dealer and they replaced one of the tires and balanced wheels; that didn't help, then different dealer told me the tires had "bump" in them, probably from sitting too long, so the first, original selling dealer replaced the tires all around (same brand, Conti Touring Contacts), and aligned it; still had the same problem.. went back, they aligned it again, also replaced transfer case oil because of a clunking noise in back of car, still had same problem so brought it back and now when the lead mechanic drove it with me he tries to tell me it's just "normal road cresting" and not alignment or any other problem, he feels no pulling and car is "driving as it is designed to drive", also claims clunking noise is now "normal tire noise" (Huh?) and said car didn't need any servicing at all, just take it home....
I am so disgusted with this, I would love this car and its terrific engine (other than the cheap, not-fully-power seats), if not for this pull to the right and having to fight the wheel all the time (which I'm worrying is more than just alignment problems and might be dangerous). Might also add that it is incredibly rough and noisy on any kind of road that is not smooth or brand new! I feel every little bump in the road, might replacing the tires with Michelin's help in any way?
If this is what MB's are supposed to feel like, which I'm assuming they are not, then I would never consider this car again, under any circumstances.
Has anyone else had these problems? Any suggestions? I'm truly at the point of wanting to get rid of it as soon as possible, ... knew I shouldn't have bought used!!!
Thanks for any help anyone might be able to offer..
If you don't know caster from camber from toe-in, have the tech explain it to you. More caster makes the car a bit more reluctant to turn in that direction...less caster has the opposite effect. To correct pulling, you just need to make the car want to move a bit less in that direction. But first you have to find an alignment tech who is willing to think outside the box.
JR
When you're done, the right and left sides will have DIFFERENT caster settings...as opposed to setting them the same, which is what they're trained to do. The side with the higher caster will be a bit more reluctant to turn, which is what you want.
Instead I have found this spare part on the internet (OEM Mercedes W202 Cooling Radiator Fan C230 SLK230 E320), which seems a lot as the spare parts I am looking for. My question is that does this part fit with my car as well?
I changed tires three times, changed rear springs, for some reason any tire that I install on right rear gets damaged.
I do not know what to do anymore. Did anyone ever experience somethnig like this? Someone suggested to me to change rear shocks. Also it is always pulling to the side too. This is the worst vehicle I had in my life.
If you look at a CR list, you will be surprised at what they do recommend.
I am hoping MB will get the C series right this time. Whether it is covered by warranty or not doesn't matter if it can't be corrected or has to be taken in several times.
1) Oil change every 8000-10000 miles = $100 (dealer) / $70 (independent)
2) Inspection tune up every 30000 miles = $800 (dealer) / $500 (independent). I never got just a tune up because they always say this and that about to explode unless it was fixed immediately.
Over the long haul, I think $500-$700 a year is a good figure to be setting aside as a mtc reserve. For just the first 3 years, I'd figure about $800-$1000 total if done by the dealer.