Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I went ahead and traded in the Benz for an SUV. I got a great deal on both the new car, and the trade-in on my C240.
HOWEVER, in later years I found out that the ESP light is a catch-all for all sorts of problems. In my case (when the car was 5 years old) it was trying to tell me that the innards of my fuel pump were decomposing and clogging up my recently-replaced fuel filter. That has nothing to do with ESP.
Bottom line: you can ignore ESP for awhile but get it checked eventually because it just might be trying to tell you something serious.
I'm still hoping Lexus will come out with a manual transmission so I can trade in this cantankerous vehicle that's "engineered like no other car in the world"... thank goodness.
I was told it is normal.
Dont't you love it? Aren't dealers helpful?
Well. . .
Thanks!!
Mercedes no longer offers a maintenance program. The only high end company that does is Audi and you have to pay for it now. Oil changes in my area (Chicago) run around 100 dollars and only need to be performed every 10,000 to 13,000 miles. Brakes all depend how you drive the car. Warranty is now 4 yrs. or 50,000 miles, but I extended mine to 6yrs 75,000 miles. There is a routine check-up performed between 1,000 and 3,000 miles. This is just a diagnostic check-up to make sure the car is performing at its best. Just got mine 2 weeks ago so it's kinda fresh in my mind. Hope this helps.
I think you'll find that the only high-end company that does is BMW. Audi discontinued their included (free?) maintenance a couple of years or so ago.
It happened after I filled up. Has anyone else had this problem? What did you have to do to fix?
It could be the instrument cluster, but usually it's the sending unit that goes bad.
Good Luck.
The past month while driving, while slowing down from 20 mph to 0 mph will feel/hear a clunk underneath center of car, perhaps transmission downshifting? Does this 90% of the time when coming to a stop or slowing to this low speed,is that normal for a car this age? also periodic hard shifts in lower gears, when gradually speeding up or slowing down. (It doesnt do this all the time either approx 80% of the time. It Does shift into the gears just hits the first couple gears hard when does. The higher speed gears do not feel any shifting. Is this going to be an expensive transmission problem? This by no means is a complaint about MB. Wonderful car (last yr of this body style before newer 2001 body style came out) :shades:
And, while I don't think it applies to your car, which is the previous generation C, it certainly wouldn't hurt to ask if you're seeing similar symptoms. There may or may not be commonality between the cars on this particular part.
First month I had brought it back to the selling dealer and they replaced one of the tires and balanced wheels; that didn't help, then different dealer told me the tires had "bump" in them, probably from sitting too long, so the first, original selling dealer replaced the tires all around (same brand, Conti Touring Contacts), and aligned it; still had the same problem.. went back, they aligned it again, also replaced transfer case oil because of a clunking noise in back of car, still had same problem so brought it back and now when the lead mechanic drove it with me he tries to tell me it's just "normal road cresting" and not alignment or any other problem, he feels no pulling and car is "driving as it is designed to drive", also claims clunking noise is now "normal tire noise" (Huh?) and said car didn't need any servicing at all, just take it home....
I am so disgusted with this, I would love this car and its terrific engine (other than the cheap, not-fully-power seats), if not for this pull to the right and having to fight the wheel all the time (which I'm worrying is more than just alignment problems and might be dangerous). Might also add that it is incredibly rough and noisy on any kind of road that is not smooth or brand new! I feel every little bump in the road, might replacing the tires with Michelin's help in any way?
If this is what MB's are supposed to feel like, which I'm assuming they are not, then I would never consider this car again, under any circumstances.
Has anyone else had these problems? Any suggestions? I'm truly at the point of wanting to get rid of it as soon as possible, ... knew I shouldn't have bought used!!!
Thanks for any help anyone might be able to offer..
If you don't know caster from camber from toe-in, have the tech explain it to you. More caster makes the car a bit more reluctant to turn in that direction...less caster has the opposite effect. To correct pulling, you just need to make the car want to move a bit less in that direction. But first you have to find an alignment tech who is willing to think outside the box.
JR
When you're done, the right and left sides will have DIFFERENT caster settings...as opposed to setting them the same, which is what they're trained to do. The side with the higher caster will be a bit more reluctant to turn, which is what you want.
Instead I have found this spare part on the internet (OEM Mercedes W202 Cooling Radiator Fan C230 SLK230 E320), which seems a lot as the spare parts I am looking for. My question is that does this part fit with my car as well?
I changed tires three times, changed rear springs, for some reason any tire that I install on right rear gets damaged.
I do not know what to do anymore. Did anyone ever experience somethnig like this? Someone suggested to me to change rear shocks. Also it is always pulling to the side too. This is the worst vehicle I had in my life.
If you look at a CR list, you will be surprised at what they do recommend.
I am hoping MB will get the C series right this time. Whether it is covered by warranty or not doesn't matter if it can't be corrected or has to be taken in several times.
1) Oil change every 8000-10000 miles = $100 (dealer) / $70 (independent)
2) Inspection tune up every 30000 miles = $800 (dealer) / $500 (independent). I never got just a tune up because they always say this and that about to explode unless it was fixed immediately.
Over the long haul, I think $500-$700 a year is a good figure to be setting aside as a mtc reserve. For just the first 3 years, I'd figure about $800-$1000 total if done by the dealer.