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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair



  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    Yeah, this has happened to me, too. The rust from the hubs will bind to the wheel, and make it tough.
    I have done two things - turned the steering wheel so the tire is at an angle, and used a rubber mallet on the inside of the tire to knock it loose. Another approach is to GENTLY lower the wheel to the ground with the bolts out [but the wheel locator tool in] and let a little weight of the car break the binding between the hub and the wheel.

    And it's harder than you think to hurt anything here - these assemblies are designed to take a lot of punishment. The best approach has been the rubber or plastic-headed mallet - might want to carry one in the car. The thing is to not let the wheel get away from you when it finally breaks loose, since that is when the damage can occur.
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271

    Thanks for your quick response - I'll try what you suggest. Also thanks for the great idea to keep a mallet in the car.

    - paul_p
  • 2005b3nzo2005b3nzo Posts: 1
    I bought my wife a 2005 C230 Kompressor Sedan w/bells and whistels at the end of November last year as a Christmas present(I offered to buy a new Acura TL or a BMW 330i but this is what she wanted). For the first 3 months the black beauty drove like a dream. Since February it has been getting horrible gas mileage and it would die seconds after a cold start. I told them to check the fuel system and everything that associates with it. I took it to the same dealership that we bought it from. They told us that everything is fine...blah blah blah. After 5 visits from Mercedes of Fife, I took it up to Barrier Mercedes in Bellevue and told them to check out the entire fuel system. They found out that all of the injectors were leaking fuel while it was sitting overnight. Well, it has been almost a month and she's acting up again. I started her up this morning at 11:50am and it started but it bogged down...almost died...then it got the correct mixture. I immediately ran back to the exhaust to see what it smells like, and from past experience it smelled of pure gasoline!!!!!!!!!! I know I am not the only one having this problem. I'm calling MBUSA tomorrow and I am either getting a new car or a new engine!!!! I use Chevron Techron 92 Octane only, 300+ ASL, 60-75 average outside temp in south king county Washington. Would like to know if anybody else is having the same problem. I have worked on American, Japenese, and Euro cars for over 7 years and I would like to hear if anybody else is having the same problem with the same year and model.

  • alfedalfed Posts: 5
    I have a C230, 97. My check engine light has been on for about three years now, at first going randomly on and off. A dealership told me it's the air mass flow sensor, but the car has no typical symptoms like stalling, vibration or hesitation. Moreover, it passed the yearly emissions inspection twice with exaust results way below norm. So I never bothered, and the car runs and starts fine.

    This year in New York you can't pass inspection with that light on. The dealership wants $900 to change the air mass flow sensor, yet they say the light could be caused by something else, in the absence of typical symptoms.

    Any ideas about how to deal with such situation?
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    Get a new and correct diagnosis - get a dealer to connect to your OBD system and read the codes. If it isn't the MAF sensor, what's the point? You have to know what's going on, and that's what the diagnostic codes are for. No one on this board can help you without knowing the real problem - there are literally dozens of possible causes for a CEL - the initial diagnosis might have been right, but before spending that kind of money, I would check.

    Also, look in your phonebook for independent MB shops - the dealer is always the high-priced spread, and not always necessary if the car is out of warranty.
  • stumacpstumacp Posts: 3
    Just bought it - a 2004 with the great roof, but at city speeds at least, when fully open, we get an awful buffeting inside the car - it lessens as you close the roof to say, half way - but this seems a waste of "air" -- any advice on this?
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    Does it have the tiny deflector at the leading edge of the roof. I would be a small piece that is on the part of the roof that pops up when open, that's the 'front deflector' for lack of a better term.

    This small part redirects the airflow just a bit but was introduced on later models due to the buffeting concerns. You could speak to the dealer if it's not there and maybe they can attach one.

    Another option is to just crack the side windows an inch or so as that relieves the pressure inside and cuts down on the 'booming' sensation.

  • alfedalfed Posts: 5
    Thank you very much, it sounds very logical. I'll go and get a printout before doing anything else. Do they normally include diagnostics in the repair price or is it a separate item?

    Sincerely, AlFed
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    Depends on the shop, but most places are going to charge you once to diagnose, and separately to fix. Sigh...
  • stumacpstumacp Posts: 3
    Thanks for this -- no, the leading edge is flat -- i take it the thing is just a small sort of "ramp" thing? do you think it's available as an add-on? And yes, you are right - cracking the window does help, but then the noise is a factor -- call me fussy, but well, you know what i mean. If you know of how to get the little deflector i would be grateful -- thanks again.

  • stumacpstumacp Posts: 3
    another thought on this -- there is a deflector that pops up when the roof panel slides back -- i'm not sure if you mean that piece -- it is about 4 inches wide -- and obviously deflects some air upwards -- when you said "tiny" i figured you meant just that - but clearly, the thing that they have provided on the car is not deflecting sufficiently. do you mean an additional item to the one that is there on mine? Sorry to be obsessing on this -- but your note got me going!!
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    It is quiet literally a small hump and it's different from the one's you describe that pops-up. Even with the roof closed you'll see it. Picture a small comb laying on it's side just ahead of where the roof meets that pop-up piece. It is right in the middle and about 6 inches long and about 1/2 inch high, not much but enough to make a difference.

    You could try just putting your fist at that point just sticking out of the roof when open to simulate the effect that piece has.

    I don't know if the dealer can retro-fit this piece under some TSB but it looks to me like it would require a change of the part that pops-up because it's part of the trim of that part. There could be an add-on they developed for the older cars that glues on (like a spoiler). It would be worth asking.

    Good Luck,

  • jap123jap123 Posts: 1
    Go to the web and just type c230 mb and all kinds of parts warehouse will pop out on my c280 cost me a rebuilt one for 148 and some change i the the website was just check it out on the web, or another problem is your throttle actuator.
  • alfedalfed Posts: 5
    Thanks again for your advice and understanding.

    Last Friday, I paid for computer diagnostics at a dealership, and the result is quite interesting: they got the code for faulty MAF sensor (nothing else), then checked the sensor itself. It works fine, judging by the voltage, they explained. They cleared the computer codes, but during the weekend the Check Engine Light came back. So I can't pass inspection.

    I called the dealership today and they only suggest changing the sensor (which works). This expensive proposition does not sound logical.

    What would you do?

  • alfedalfed Posts: 5
    Thank you for your kind reply. Indeed, I seem to be really stuck with this problem.
    I had this mass air flow sensor tested by a dealership, because they were getting the only faulty code for this part on their computer diagnostics. But it works fine, they told me, when they tested the voltage.

    Should I go ahead and change it anyway?

    What are the symptoms for a faulty throttle actuator?

  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    I don't know what to tell you - experts think you need a new MAF sensor - I'd find someone to do it at the lowest possible cost, but make it clear you are really trying to get the thing to pass inspection. No, pass, no pay?

    The faulty throttle actuator should make itself known by stalling, inability to accelerate when you hit the gas...things that could feel like a bad fuel pump or injection issue, but in fact can sometimes be the electronic doo-hickey that substitutes for a throttle linkage these days.
  • I bought a 2001 MB four months ago. If it sat 2 days the battery was dead. After a new battery it still did the same things. I took it two different dealers spent 630.00 finding out what the problem was that was draining the battery. It was tele-aid control module and overhead control module. the cost for parts is 914.00 and 636.00 plus labor the total cost 2,077.00. I might add I make sure I start it on the second day its set, to keep the battery charged. Tel-aid the SOS button.
  • To mbz66,

    REST button on the climate control allows the fan to continue operation after car has been turned off to maintain cabin temperature. Many people do not realize that if you just turn off car while A/C has been running, water drops will form around the coil inside. It is like water drops cover over a cold bottle of water. These water drops could collect inside and grow mildew and other odor causing stuff.

    I have heard recommendation that before you turn off the A/C, you supposed to let the fan run for few minutes without A/C compressor running to warm up the evaporator coil so water drops do not form around the coil.

    Same rules apply for the home A/Cs.

    Hope this helps :)
  • rayzrayz Posts: 1
    Have the same problem on my car, which is a 3 year old C 220CDI. Started earlier this year, but was intermittent and wouldn't show when taken to the regular dealer (and still in warranty). Of course it's now out of warranty and whilst at a different dealer for the 'B' service it manifested its self. The tech report say's it's to do with the heater box. Yet to discover the cost involved to fix, should find out this week, but it's good to know that its a known problem.
  • mcd3mcd3 Posts: 3
    The 2004 C240 does not have a rest button. So how do you let the fan run for few minutes without A/C compressor running to warm up the evaporator coil so water drops do not form around the coil? I would also like to know what you suggest if mildew and other odor causing stuff has now formed and there is a sensitivity to the deodarizers MB uses? :sick:
  • jobe1jobe1 Posts: 3
    I'm new to this forum and I think I posted this in the wrong place earlier the "Meet the Members" forum but realize I probably should have posted it here...sorry.....

    I need some help/advice:

    My 2005 C230 Sport Sedan, six speed, has a strange vibration between 20 and 30 mph from the front end. The dealer diagnosed the problem as something in the transmission. They discovered a casting flaw in the transmission housing and decided to replace the entire transmission. This was a two week process due to parts required from Germany.

    The new transmission did not solve the problem. I took it back and they proceeded to subsequently diagnose the problem with the following resolution:

    Repositioned Exhaust, Repostioned Drive Shaft Carrier Bearing, Removed and Isolated Heat Shields and Sound Insulation Shields. This was another two day process.

    The problem persists....again between 20 and 30 MPH. I had the tires checked and balanced etc. If I get up to speed and put the car in neutral and just coast at 20 to 30 mph while not in gear the problem persists....not the tranny I would assume?

    Has anyone else had a problem like this? If so, any solution? I would appreciate any help as I love the car and really enjoy driving it. Only 13K miles on it and I had hoped for a lot more than that before moving on my next car.
  • I would probably turn off A/C few minutes before I get to my destination to dry out or warm up the coil inside. My A/C in C230 put out cold air for a while after I press the A/C button to turn off. Only thing is you have to remember to do that. ;)
  • Does anyone knows how much does a brake job cost for a C230 sedan?
    I also heard that rotors need to be changed every time. Is that true?


    YR :confuse:
  • mezecamezeca Posts: 66
    I'm not sure what the cost is, as labor rates can vary.

    The rotors typically will be an every other brake job thing, unless you drive it like you stole it.
  • mezecamezeca Posts: 66
    What type of vibration is it? Do you feel the steering wheel shaking in your hand?

    Even though you had the tires checked, I'm wondering if maybe one of your rims is slightly out of round, or if their is a defect in one of the tires.

    I hope this helps.
  • I've had my 2005 C320 for 2 mos. The "Check Engine" line has come on 3x. They can't come up with the solution, so they replaced the air pump the first time and a modulator the second time. They don't know why it keeps coming on. The last time it came on, it shut off after 4 days. Since there seem to be several owners who have had this trouble, has anyone considered enforcing the "Lemon Law" and try getting a new car or are you still working on getting it corrected? Last, has anyone actually had the problem permanently corrected? Thanks.
  • jobe1jobe1 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the thoughts....I had the rims and tires checked....all appears o.k. The vibration does not come through the wheel. It is actually more like a flutter sound between 20 and 30 mph. I went on a fairly lenghty drive over the weekend and it seems now to be more intermittant as opposed to constant.

    I'm going to return to the dealer just have them double check the work performed to see that everything was replaced properly after the last round of service. Overall though, I love the car. It looks great, performs great and sure gets a lot of looks and compliments!
  • tony24tony24 Posts: 15
    Hi, I have the same problem on my C240. The Dealer replaced the entire propeller shaft....Your dealer needs to replace the Propeller shaft.

    I hope this helps.....

  • mezecamezeca Posts: 66
    It sounds like each "light" may not be related. Usually, the only time the engine light will turn itself off, is if the gas cap was loose and then retightened. After a few days of the systems self check, it will erase the light if the fault is not seen again.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    I have to agree - this sounds like a driveshaft problem.
This discussion has been closed.