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Comments
Thanks
why do you think you have to replace them?
When you order the billisten sport shocks from Arnott do they came with the adapter or do you have to order them as well? I did some reading on this forum and did see Arnott mentioned in some past threads. Thanks for the response, I appreciate it.
Cheers
As to the Arnott coil conversion, the local shop that services my car installed a set recently for another customer. They reported that the installation went smoothly, the car sat level at about level 2 and that the ride was fine. No report on handling. The one problem they did report was associated eliminating the air suspension system which caused the suspension warning light to come on and an alarm to sound each time the car is operated. Arnott' instructions for disabling the indicator light and alarm caused the check engine light comes on. In some states, Rhode Island is one, a car cannot pass a safety inspection if the check engine light is on. The only alternative is to live with the suspension system warning light and alarm. So, one warning light or another will be on.
When my air spring assemblies fail, I may replace the OEM parts with Arnott's air system parts which carry a lifetime warranty.
Thanks
driving over 80km/hr will drop continually to bottom/flashing light at 1 and will not come back up unless I stop turn off the car and restart. Even then it comes up with difficulty.
An independent Audi repair shop has suggested replacing the airbags.
Could the problem also be the control module and or the compressor or all of the above. Cost estimate is about 3000$.
Do authorized Audi Dealers have any way of testing to determine exactly what the problem is?
What about going to spring suspension as an alternative?
Any help would be appreciated. I live in Northern Ontario
David
Could be control module or some level sensor (you have one in each wheel) or maybe just a bad wire connection. One way of testing is raise so you can be under the car (by the wheels on a platform) turn on the car, begin at level 3, and manually set to level two, the car should lower, listen for the compressed air leaving the suspension system, check if it stopped at level two or went all the way, if so check all sensors for lose or cut wires. If nothing evident go to an Audi to check the control module.
DONT GO TO SPRINGS, if you plan to do that change cars, for an A4 or A6 Avant.
I drove my car like that for 3 months and only got worse. To the point where in level 2 you could literally hear the air coming out. But in level 3 it would stay up for months. So I avoided highways and going over 50miles/h. In the winter the hole gets bigger also for some reason...
Get an arrnot bag and do it yourself. It's fairly easy. I would help you for a beer
When starting the car the top green light would flash which would indicate that the sensors were still doing their job in telling the car to release pressure in the system, but nothing happened. I even tried driving at 70 MPH on the motorway to see if the speed sensor worked, it did i.e. the top two lights flashed but it was still stuck on the top setting.
I suspected that the compressor was at fault, so I had a replacement one shipped from Arnott Industries. After fitting it there was no change to the problem (no power to the compressor and still stuck at full height)
I decided to disconnect the air hoses manually at the valve block. Firstly I disconnected the yellow connection to the pressure reservoir which emptied the tank but had no effect on the suspension so with the aid of a colleague disconnected the air line to each of the four air springs to level them out manually.
I am now in the position whereby when I switch the ignition on, the warning light on the dash is on constantly (I seem to remember that it used to flash for a while and then become solid) the lowest green light in the centre console is flashing as the system is calling for air. There is no power to the new compressor and after using a friend’s VAG.com it has a fault stating that there is a short on the solenoid which I thought was on the new compressor.
After obtaining a wiring diagram for the suspension I understand that there is a main 40AMP fuse and relay supplying the compressor. Having looked through the forum I understand that it could be on the relay panel (driver’s side, behind the micro central electric panel). I have looked at my relay panel but it doesn’t look like the one on the diagram that I found.
Does anybody out there know where the main fuse and relay located?
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
The A6 Avant is exactly the same car, swapping cars makes more sence.
The residual value on allroads is horrible regardless, you have to love the car. Well, now I know that I will NEVER come out to see my left front slumping, right front slumping, rear left slumping, rear right slumping or burn out my air compressor or fry my computer because they are all GONE. If you switch cars you will pay a lot and not have the power or cool wheel flares or tough rubber bumpers. the allroad is awesome, but it has flaws and these springs fix that flaw quickly and easily. ($1050 for the springs, $400 to install at Tango in San Mateo, $85 to realign my wheels). Now if I can get that damn check engine light to go off!
peace, duck
How does your allroad ride and handle now with the conversion kit? I'm considering the same thing. Have had problems with my susp. light coming one. Usually is off when I start the car but turns on and locks the suspension shortly after it makes any adjustments. I also need new rear shocks as it really bounces in the back. So I'm thinking I can switch to the spring conversion for cheaer then fixing the problem with the air suspension and then never have another air spring problem. Just wondering how your allroad handles now?
thanks
I guess its a matter of point of view, there are no rights or wrongs, just what one values more on this car, the looks, flares etc, or the adjustable ride height. I value the ride height adjustment because I use dirt roads to go to a weekend ranch.
Best of luck with the coil springs.
Augusto
Compressor was also shot.
Did like the air suspension but access to doing repairs up here can be a problem and springs are less likely to fail.
duck
Where abouts in canada do you live? Have you gone to the coil over springs? I'm on the fence with what I will do. I bought my allraod and it was working fine for about 3 months. I thought I was in the clear as the guy I bought the car off of had almost $4000.00 in repairs to his air suspension so I figured it would last a while for me but I was incorrect. I'm going to get a quote to see how much my repair will cost with keeping the stock aor suspension.
http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Pictures-c13785-2002-A6-Avant.html
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/wagons/112_0109_2002_audi_s6_avant/index.htm- l
I had a S4 Avant with the 2.7l V6, great car, but it could not drive on any dirt road, we are not talking offroad use, just dirt roads, one could feel that it was damaging the car. The allroad has the advantage of higher ground clearance when needed, and when loaded it keeps the same ride height not true with springs.
Thanks
Art65
Where are you located?
David
Background, I bought the Allroad from orriginal owner, he was in Edmonton and his ari ride went. The car had 180 000 km s on it and he spend $3700.00 fixing it at the Audi dealer there. The car now has high 190 000's on it so under 20000 kms have been put on it since the bulk of the work was done.
The compressor cost $1000.00, I would say I am going to be looking to get $500-ish for it.
All the air spring are good as well, as well as the front shocks. There were also 2 valves that were put on it that cost $500 for each one.
I was thinking of just selling it all together but if you are only interested in the compressor I'm sure I could find someone else for the springs and shocks. Oh yes the front left air bag is also new, cost for that was $600.00 the other three were check and have no leaks.
Thanks
Shawn
duck
It wont go up or down.. ride is very hard on the front..!!
I get the feeling am looking at a very large £££ bill to fix it..
Any ideas ??
thanks
Duncan
Plus i dont want to start down the road of replace this part..then that part etc..etc..
Because will just become a money pit !!
I can get a new OEM compressor for £350.00, which is fine if it fixes the problem !!
Let me know if you are interested.