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Chevrolet Cavalier Climate Control/AC Issues

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Comments

  • jsheppjshepp Posts: 2
    I am having the exact same problem with my '03 cavalier. Have you found a fix yet?
  • dave181dave181 Posts: 1
    I don't know if this will help anyone but my 2002 cavalier AC has been eratic for a month, blowing hot/cold and the RPMS would rise and fall at a stop sign like the engine was going to quit. to make a long story short, it was the HIGH pressure switch (3 wires) located under the alternator. mechanic clipped 3 wires and used an old switch he found in a box. it's 96 degrees and my teeth are chattering, car runs great Dave
  • dkfdkf Posts: 1
    I saw a prior posting that I believe will apply to this case as well, but I wanted to get a little more information. The lower 2 speed settings of the fan switch do not work, but the higher 2 speed settings work fine. A poster had mentioned that this is a blown resistor (or in this case perhaps 2?). My questions are:

    1. If I'm looking to replace these resistors, what do a look for? Would they be called "fan speed switch resistors", for instance?

    2. Would I find them at an auto parts store like Pep Boys, or would I need to go to a dealer?

    3. Once the blower motor is removed, is it "obvious" where the resistors are located, or does it take some fair knowledge to figure that out?

    Cheers,

    Doug
  • 03cav62303cav623 Posts: 1
    air works, knobs work but when i turn it passed 2 on speed control it sounds like a space shuttle lift off. Lots of humming/vibrating sounds. I have worked on everything my entire life (not certified) and am just looking to confirm my belief of the blower motor/fan!! any help?? Thanks for your time in advance.. I know this is going to take like hours so...thats expected!
  • :cry: Ok, i replaced my tps in my 2002 Chevy Cavalier. Everything was working perfect.. So i thought I would disconnect the battery to reset the codes and then I had problems. My inst panel quit working, So i took out the cluster fuse and got all the gauges to work, but now my a/c turns on but i cant change the speed nor can i change like from floor to defrost. It blows cold and it blows a lil out of my floor vents and out of the dash vents and a tad bit out of my defrost. I can change from cold to hot and
  • I realize this is an older post; but seems to be a re-occurring problem. The cable that connects on the backside of the climate control knob is known for kinking. If the cable is not frayed yet, you can pull it off the back of the knob and straighten it (this does require, laying on your backside on the passenger side floor, and a flashlight helps if you are trying to accomplish this for the first time....if the cable is frayed you can replace the cable. It is the same cable as the "heater control cable"; to replace it, it is a job that can be done without removing the entire dash, you will need to remove the plate over the brake; and again, plan on a lot of time on your back with a flashlight. I just replaced mine over the weekend, and was able to straighten a co-workers today.
  • I also have discovered the air control knob kinking. I fixed it using a need nose pliers but it just wants to kink again because the control box wheel or control box "guts" must jamb at times. I have checked for clearance and there is no rubbing on the wheel by the cable. Question - what is the specific cause for the failure? Has a air gasket come loose inside the air control housing that interfers with smooth operation? Also, with all my "experimenting", I found that if you allow hot air to heat up the air control box, the control knob will then move freely to all positions.
    another method that works with my size 13 fingers, If you can find the cable with your fingers while sitting in the drivers seat, You can force the knob while using your fingers to keep the cable from kinking.
  • My heater blows cold it wont blow hot air i had the ac fixed this summer and now its getting cold and the heater doesnt blow hot air what can i do to fix the problem!!!
  • hams1hams1 Posts: 4
    A loud clicking sound started on the passenger side of my 2004 Cavalier. I traced it to the blower motor in the car. The noise is there even when the fan is off, the noise stops when I move the climate control switch to outside air. Thanks Hams1
  • hams1hams1 Posts: 4
    when I press on the brake pedal a noise is coming from the read brakes, as if it was a bearing noise. The noise is only there when I apply the brake pedal hard enough to stop the car. Thanks Hams1
  • jrmnjrmn Posts: 2
    had same problem . Turned out it was the serpentine chain that should have been replaced as manual said. One garage told me the S belt is fine, went to another place and told them i wanted it replaced and problem was fixed. To be fare to first mechanic the belt LOOKED fine on car but once off you could see it had to go.

    I am no mechanic just telling what happened to me . Good luck
  • hams1hams1 Posts: 4
    Thanks I will check it out. Hams
  • My father and I just replaced the a/c compressor and condenser on my 2000 Cavalier. The a/c hasn't worked for years and I finally decided to fix it myself as opposed to pay serious $$$ to have someone else do it.

    The problem is that we can't get the compressor clutch to engage. The relay seems to be working and we hear it when we turn the a/c on from inside the car. We tested the old compressor after we took it out by running wires directly from the battery to the compressor and it engaged. That made us think that maybe the a/c wasn't working NOT because the compressor was bad, BUT because it wasn't getting enough juice to engage the clutch.

    Does anyone know how many volts the a/c compressor needs (at the compressor terminals) to engage the clutch?

    email me at [email protected]

    Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Now you know it won't engage unless you have the proper amount of refrigerant in there, all charged up, right?

    If you're charged, then I'd suggest you find the pressure switch and test it by bypassing it. If the compressor engages when you buy pass it, then that's your problem--the switch (or low refrigerant if you haven't tested refrigerant pressure).

    You can also test everything electrical right at the compressor's electrical plug-in by by-passing the pressure switch and reading voltage at the compressor.

    Try not to run the compressor if you have little or no refrigerant.

    If you are fully charged, and if you've bypassed the pressure switch, and you still get no clutch engagement, then you must have a bad HVAC control module in the dash.
  • its a 3 way pressure switch what 2 do i use to bypassing it
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Since I don't have an actual electrical diagram for your car, I'd hesitate to tell you on the Internet to start crossing wires...sorry....I don't want to cause you to burn something up.
  • i got it the black wire was broke on the 3 way pig tail and the cooling fan relay was bad it works good now

    thank you for your help

    smoothone05
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    There you go---good job! Nothing works like some persistent snooping.
  • I have a '99 chevy cavalier and suspect that my a/c system has a leak on, I took it to a shop and they said there is no leak at all just low on refrigerant. They charge the system and after two months the system doesn't blow cold anymore. I change the compressor and accumulator, charge the system with refrigerant again and it blows amazing, after 1 year the problem shows up again. The question is: If I change any part in the system, (hoses, condenser, etc.) should I need to replace the accumulator again? I'm trying to find the problem by my side. I understand that moisture is bad for the system and gets in once the system is open.

    Thanks. :confuse:
  • Does anyone have an answer or opinion about this? Please...
  • Hi everyone. I have a 2003 cavalier. Its a 4 door, just a standard. No ls or sport or anything. Its a 4 cylinder engine. One day I was using the AC and it was fine. I went to work and when I came out it no longer cooled the air. A co-worker said it might be low on freon. He hooked it up and said it was low so he put some in, however it did not solve the problem. He says it shows as full. He believes it might be the low pressure sensor switch that is at fault. Does that make any sense? If so, is it a hard fix? Could it be a blown fuse?
    I'm trying to resist taking it to a shop and spend hundreds to find it was a switch that is screwed on with two wires to unhook and hook back up or if it was a blown fuse.

    Thanks.
  • Hello everyone. Just got a cavalier 2000 base model. The climate control is acting funny. Fan blows to maximum speed whatever knob position is. AC is also activated even if I don't select it (can't deactivate it). Is this system controlled by one unit? If so, where is it? Is it expensive? Thanks in advance from a newbie!
  • I have that problem, if i turn the AC/Heat to the OFF position, then turn it to defrost fast, it goes on defrost. But if i turn it to the vents then back to defrost it stays on the vents till i turn it off.
  • lew413lew413 Posts: 1
    Hi Teddy,

    My '03 Cavalier is doing the exact same thing. Were you ever able to figure out what was wrong with the A/C? We filled it up with freon and it didn't help the issue.

    Thanks!

    Alyssa
  • kb9mnmkb9mnm Posts: 2
    I had a 92 that was stuck on vent mode. I traced the vac line to the manifold and it was leaking. I cut off the bad part and re-attached it and it worked great. As far as it blowing hot all the time, sounds like the exchanger door(?) to go from hot to cold is stuck on hot.
  • I am the original owner of a 2000 Chevy Cavalier with only 51,000 miles on it. I have been reading the forum posts and see that A/C problems are frequent with other owners. I don't know how to do anything to my car, except put in windshield wiper fluid and gas. So, I have to count on my mechanic for everything. I had to pay $109 diagnostic fee for the A/C problem and also for the electric window motor problem. The estimate to replace the A/C compressor and various related things is $1100. The estimate for new electric window motors and regulators is $410 each.

    I don't know what else to do, but get these things fixed. I'm on a fixed income and can't afford to buy a new car. This is the second time that I've needed a new motor for my driver's side electric window. I didn't see anyone else in the forum with this problem. At first, one of the mechanics told me to get the dye to check for leaks in my A/C. Later the other mechanic told me I needed a new compressor. I hope that I am making the right decision to have these items repaired. Any thoughts?
  • i have a 05 chevy cavalier that the a/c was working fine, and recently it has not been blowing out of the vents as hard as it should. It is still very cold but barely blows out. Is there any kind of filter or line that could be clogged, I have always ran it on the setting that recirculates the air inside the car instead of the vented air, not sure if that has anything to do with it or not. Any help or hints would be greatly appreciated.
  • Do you get any difference in fan speed when you place fan speed switch in any other position? It is very possible that your blower motor resistor is defective. These aren't too expensive to replace. The resistor is located inside the car under the instrument panel on passenger side on the bottom of the heater case.
  • Yes Alyssa, I did. It was a bad evaporator. To top it all off, its a $900 to $1000 repair because they had to take the entire dash board off and get to it behind the glove box. I'll hope for you that its not the same thing as it was a very hard decision to put that much money out to fix it, but I would have been in a very bad comfort zone if I went through the 110 degree heat Nebraska heat index.

    Then after they fixed that, I began hearing a clicking noise in the same area. They claim it was the fresh air door that was not closing properly because the motor went bad. What lovely timing. They unpluged the motor so I won't be able to turn the dial to get outside air, I can only get recirculated air. Big deal...I can live with that small problem, so that won't be getting fixed.

    Good luck on yours.
  • I have a 2004 Cavalier. I haven't had heat or air in at least 4 years. I figured it would be too expensive to fix so I have just dealt with it. I have a new baby (with 2 older children) and we live in Florida. No A/C is really not an option any more.

    If I have the air turned on (as long as I am moving) cold air will seep through the vents, but the fan will not blow. So the compressor is doing its job in cooling. I bought a new blower motor and tried to replace it, but it seems that there is no power getting to it. The power switch works since it does kick on the compressor and the light comes on to indicate the air is turned on. So it's not the switch. I've tried replacing some fuses but it still doesn't work. I've tested the pigtail that runs right into the blower motor as well as another one from the same area and neither are getting power.

    Single mom with these three children. I only know enough to be dangerous when it comes to cars. If you tell me what to do, I can do it. But I have no idea what to even look for at this point. I've tried doing searches online and keep coming up with nothing.

    Thanks for any help you can give.
  • shadow48shadow48 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 cavalier that is getting no power to the coil in the blower motor relay. I know all the numbers and letters pertaining to the heat/air control panel wiring and such, but unfortunately dont have it in front of me...I have power from the fuse to the relay port, i have a ground to the relay coil in that port...i can put a jumper wire from the fuse side in that relay port, to the blower motor (orange wire) in that port an the blower motor will work on all speeds...I NEED TO KNOW what triggers that positive side of the relay coil. I have changed the whole control assembly...i wished i had better schematics than what the Haynes manual gives because it is not the same wiring schematic or control panel thats in my car...PLUS i put a jumper in the relay port on the signal wire to the coil and cannot get continuity on any wires back at the control head...I DO have power at the control head with the key ON...Any ideas, gotta be simple, i just dont have the correct schematics...
  • htbf1964htbf1964 Posts: 1
    if your system is empty (0psi) in system then do a standing pressure test with nitrogen to 150psi. let it stand for 2 hours minimum 4 hours is what id do. if u lose pressure u have a leak. standard microbubble leak solution is needed on a/c systems to find leaks of 2oz/year. if you do have a leak and have it located u can then find your solution. cars do lose refrigerant thru the compressor seal but it should be at a rate no more than 4oz a year. if you dont have a leak pull a vacuum to hold at 1000 microns and recharge system. dont let refrigerants in a system that does not have a vacuum pulled.
  • I have a 1997 Chevy Cavalier. Recently, the passenger floor, both the front and the back, becomes very wet when I run the air conditioning. I suspect the issue is a blocked condensate drain. Where is the condensate drain located on the 97 Cav and what is the best way to clear out the debris? If you can be specific as possible and/or include pictures, I would really appreciate it. I'm not a car genius and would appreciate any help. Thanks!
  • 2005 cavalier will not blow cold air, at best it will match the outside temp, refrigerant is at the correct level,clutch does engage low pressure line barely cools
  • So confused my a/c compressor bearings went out on my 2000 Chevy cavalier 2.4 dohc and it was leaking refrigerant by the belt but would kick on just fine so I replaced the compressor with a unit pre filled with oil which was 2 vacum lines and an electronic plug up front that were mounted too but not ran to the compressor four mounting bolts one electronic plug that goes to the a/c compressor and both lines that come into a single block the lines are good no leaks new o rings mounting bolts went off without a hitch electronic plug went on easy mounted the vacum lines and other plug back up top serpentine belt is back on I pressurized the system and now the new a/c won't kick on when I jump the relay the compressor kicks on blows like artic winds so I checked the relay but it was good checked fuses they are good idk now 
  • sbaker89sbaker89 Posts: 5
    So I have a 1989 Chevy Cavalier Base with the L4 2.0l. I bought the car not long ago and the A/C worked fine most of the time but every once in a while it wouldn't blow cold for a short period of time. I just assumed this was due to low refrigerant but before I had a chance to buy a can to recharge it stopped blowing cold altogether. I went and picked up two cans of r-134 refrigerant and took to the mechanic shop behind my work where I was told my compressor clutch was not engaging probably due to low refrigerant and I should jump off the compressor so I could recharge with the r134 I bought. One of the mechanics had me wrap a wire around his test light and put the other end on the positive terminal of my battery and to touch it to the power plug harness on the compressor to jump it off and hold it there while I recharged the A/C. I know now that this was not the best and proper way to do this! Anyways when trying to find which side of the plug was the hot terminal and not the ground with sparks flying I believed I may have blown a fuse/relay or ungrounded something. Because when at first I had touched it to the correct terminal the clutch would engaging momentarily but as i lost my place and touched it again to the ground terminal, the compressor clutch stopped reacting to the wire at all. From this point the only way I can get the clutch on my A/C compressor to engage is by removing the compressor relay and running a jump wire from the hot terminal on the plug to the one sending power signal to the compressor itself. I have purchased a brand new relay that I confirmed is the correct relay and working although still the only way I am getting my compressor to click on is by removing the relay and running the jump wire. The head mechanic has tested any and all fuses and all of the A/C controls and wire harnesses inside the cab of the car and everything is working properly. Also I even tried replacing the high-side pressure switch and plug but not the other one on the back of the compressor yet. I have on multiple occasions since this completely drained out all of the refrigerant until the gauge reads completely empty and refilling with r134 and running through my system with the compressor jumped off but will only pump cold air with the compressor running if I once again remove the relay and run a jumper wire on the plug. Once I plug the relay back in I get nothing and the recharge hose gauge will go into red but when running the jumper wire it shows in the green. I cannot figure out what other options I have besides replacing the compressor or compressor clutch and honestly I believe the compressor is functional. Has anyone been here before and is there any ideas out there? What should I try and do? I cannot bear the heat without my A/C working. Please let me know if anyone has anything for me!! Thanks!!
  • sbaker89sbaker89 Posts: 5
    Also I am aware the A/C is originally r12 and that I am using r134a but the car has had no problem running on r134a before and I don't believe any valves need to be retrofitted
  • sbaker89sbaker89 Posts: 5
    So confused my a/c compressor bearings went out on my 2000 Chevy cavalier 2.4 dohc and it was leaking refrigerant by the belt but would kick on just fine so I replaced the compressor with a unit pre filled with oil which was 2 vacum lines and an electronic plug up front that were mounted too but not ran to the compressor four mounting bolts one electronic plug that goes to the a/c compressor and both lines that come into a single block the lines are good no leaks new o rings mounting bolts went off without a hitch electronic plug went on easy mounted the vacum lines and other plug back up top serpentine belt is back on I pressurized the system and now the new a/c won't kick on when I jump the relay the compressor kicks on blows like artic winds so I checked the relay but it was good checked fuses they are good idk now 
    I am having the exact same problem, did you ever solve this? Please I've been beating myself up over this problem for some time now and ANY help would be amazing right now!!
  • ShawnchevymanShawnchevyman Pine knot ky 42635Posts: 4
    Hi all, Currently own a 2003 Cavalier 2.2L ecotec. Having problems with the A/C compressor not kicking on or kicking on intermittently. Yes there are some criteria you have to meet for clutch to engage 1. engine temp<250 farenheit 2. engine <5000 rpms. 3. call from dash (have to turn dial on control panel) 4. battery voltage between 9 and 18 volts. 5. High and low pressure between ? I meet all the criteria for the compressor to engage (although I can't check high and low pressure) and the clutch will not engage. I will drive the car and then the clutch may engage and A/C will work and other times it won't. Problem is extremely intermittent with no real rhyme or reason. Dealer says it works properly but I know they are full of it. Any advice may help. Thank you.

  • ShawnchevymanShawnchevyman Pine knot ky 42635Posts: 4
    My family has been rebuilding Cavaliers since around 1990 but they started having ac problems really bad in the 1995-2005 the last 10 years of the car but the only issues we have found  are  these the switch to control the heat and ac on the inside of the vehicle and under the hood either not enough ac freon,or to much freon id u but freon from a parts store with the gauge and hose it is easy to use and figure out if it is ur problem or the switch on the high pressure ac line or the  side of the  ac condenser is stuck or bad or the radiator fan isn't working these are the most common problems but I have seen the temperature  switch on the engine be reading the engine was running in -60 degrees or lastly the  vents or heater core can cause the air flow to stop and cause the damage  I hope this helps you 
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 131,225

    My family has been rebuilding Cavaliers since around 1990 but they started having ac problems really bad in the 1995-2005 the last 10 years of the car but the only issues we have found  are  these the switch to control the heat and ac on the inside of the vehicle and under the hood either not enough ac freon,or to much freon id u but freon from a parts store with the gauge and hose it is easy to use and figure out if it is ur problem or the switch on the high pressure ac line or the  side of the  ac condenser is stuck or bad or the radiator fan isn't working these are the most common problems but I have seen the temperature  switch on the engine be reading the engine was running in -60 degrees or lastly the  vents or heater core can cause the air flow to stop and cause the damage  I hope this helps you 

    In Pine Knot? Man, you are in the boonies.. ;)

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  • Have a 2003 chevy cavalier 5 speed blower motor started making a noise so took it out to replace it but havent found the part yet but when i drive it it over heats really bad the whole time im driveing. With the blower motor oit will that make it over heat?
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 5,119
    edited August 23
    No, the HVAC blower motor has nothing to do with the engine cooling system.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 23,714
    Check rockauto.com for blower motors.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

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