My car has a build date of 10/00 and I have the new cradle. I have the 104 amp, but I think it sounds OK. Truth be told, I never got around to the bypass, so I don't have anything to compare it to.
Don't do it my friend... You'll be obsessed with getting the 103 amp and continue this thread for another 600 posts or so, thus upsetting other folks who think it's a colossal waste of time! (tounge firmly planted in cheek!)
So the noise is for sure the engine cradle? So if I have the old cradle I need to have them replace it or can they fix it? If they know it is the cradle why is the dealer telling me GM does not have a fix for it yet? Do you think GM is hopping that I will just go away?
I have almost 70k on my 2000 S. To me, one of the best things I like about this car is the brakes. I have had no problems with the brakes what so ever. I have not even had to change the pads. These brakes are huge!!! I agree with the people about the em tires. I put Kelly Chargers on this car about 3000 miles ago.... Much better tires. This is the best car I've ever owned.
My grandparents have a 2001 Chevrolet Impala with 13,567 miles on it. I was driving it tonight and it shut off as we were returning home from supper. I was going up a hill and the red charging light appeared in the "Information Center." I then realized that the car had cut off when I tried to accelerate up the hill. I tried to put it in neutral and crank it that way, but it still didn't crank. I pulled off the road and continued to try and crank it, but had no luck. Finally, I tried one more time before we were going to try the OnStar people and see what they could do for us, and to my surprise, it cranked. What do you guys think happened, and is this a problem with the Impalas? Thanks for your help. They are on the road quite a bit and I just want to make sure that everything is okay with their car. Thanks again.
Thanks for the info on the radio amp. I have an early 2000 Impala with a build date of 5/99 with 20,000 miles. I was never very happy with the radio. So far no engine cradle noise but do have warped rotors. All the TSB's are making me very nervous about the reliability of this car!
That's usually an indication of a fault in the electrical system, probably a bad alternator. The car should immediately be taken in for service, with the expectation that the alternator will be replaced. It's under warranty, so the inconvenience is the only thing you'll be out.
For future reference, I would have immediately pinged OnStar for assistance. One of the things you're paying them for is to read engine diagnostic codes and recommend remedies.
I have been maintaining a list of TSBs and I am not concerned about the reliability of the Impala. Some of the TSBs address minor issues. Debris collecting in the wheelwell, carpet wet on passenger side, etc. The purpose of the TSBs are to share information among the dealers and just because one exists it doesn't mean your car will develop a problem. Not everyone will get a wet carpet, but for those who do, the dealer can pull the info vice trying to trouble-shoot it on their own.
The Ford Focus has has five safety recalls. The Escape isn't doing that well either. I would recommend an Impala to anyone who asked and if I had to do it over again, I would still buy an Impala.
To put this in perspective, imagine if our car was made by Microsoft. On a weekly basis, our car would die unexpectivly and we would have to get out of the car and get back in before it started. Every so often we would have to uninstall the engine and re install it. And every year they would change the gasoline and we would have to buy a new car to use it.
I had alignment checked on 2001 Impala at 1300 miles. Had noticed it "wandering" on straight stretches of road. Dealer did find it misaligned and attempted to correct it. Dealer's work did improve the car's tracking, but some problem still remains. Generally, when I feel the car move slightly right or left and very gently correct it, it seems to over-steer and will need slight correcting in the other direction. Dealer mentioned that they could check the steering again, but, the behavior of the car "may be characteristic to this model." Ideas, anyone?
Hi today I went out to do some maintenance on my 2000 Impala and was unable to release the hood latch it pulls back as normal but wont "pop" if you know what I mean. Has anyone experienced this and if so can someone advise me how to manually release it as easily as possible? thanks in advance
My 2001 LS is rock steady, without "wandering". Your problem sounds like something is loose or prematurely worn in the steering / suspension system. Check the tire wear on ALL tires. The front might be good but the rear might need to be aligned also. The hood "pop" sounds like the hood and the latch need to be adjusted. Remember when closing the hood, just "dropping it from waist level is enough to close the hood properly. Anything more means you need an adjustment. The weight of the hood is more than enough force to close the hood properly.
I was trying to create a small page to help you, but I had a problem with my computer last night and couldn't upload anything.
First off, when you talk about pulling the hood release latch, I am assuming you are talking about the one inside the car. There are two latches, the one inside the car will release the hood and the second one is the backup latch that is found under the hood.
It could be that the spring that pushes up the hood is broken/missing. To open the hood, pull the latch while someone else lifts up on the hood. The hood should come up about 2-3 inches. Then release the second latch and lift up the hood. Take a look at the latch, There should be two springs. The big spring is what pushes the hood back up.
If you cannot move the hood, something serious is wrong (hood missalignment) and you gotta take it to the dealer or a body shop. If you can wait, I'll try and upload some photos this afternoon.
I'm going to complain about my dealership for not replacing my warped rotors but I'm sure I won't get new ones because of it. They were turned twice and I'll need new ones soon. I was just wondering if anyone can tell me what to look for. I want something a little better than oem. I thought a set of cross-drilled rotors would be nice but I've read many links from posts here about the disadvantages of them. I've seen some places offer 12 months and lifetime warranty on rotors. I just want to know a little more so I know what to ask for.
Thanks
wwnf
Oh, Also, do I need to get new brake pads, I think I read somewhere once that you should buy new pads when you get new rotors.
A few posts back there is a link to site about brakes and related parts. Brake components are always replaced in axle sets (shoes, pads, and rotors) to prevent uneven braking. If you replace the rotors, you should still get them turned (to remove the slight warp from manufacture - a normal occurance) and install new pads (the old ones wore to the old rotors, plus they have to removed anyway, so start off with new ones). Once you have everything done, follow that "No heavy braking for 200 miles" to allow the pads and rotors to wear in. I know our Impalas beg to be driven hard and those big brakes are quite effective, but give it chance to wear in first. What is bad about cross drilled rotors?
Hi all, I'm new to this group, but before bringing my 2000 Impala in for service needed some freindly advice. The cassette RDS radio seems to work for 10-30 minutes lately, then loses all sound output. I do not have the AMP or any aftermarket stereo stuff. After turning the car off for about an hour, the sound returns for about 6-8 minutes, then mutes. Turning the radio on/off does not return the sound, and the longer the car is left off, the longer the radio lasts till it mutes. The power to the radio is still on, and i can change radio stations and rewind cassettes, but no sound. Any ideas?
It sounds like your radio's internal AMP is busted. It could be a short in the radio or speakers. I believe your best bet would be to get a new radio under warranty; however, make sure the dealer goes over the electrical system with a fine tooth comb to make sure that the radio and nothing else is causing the strange behavior.
Also, be certain that as they poke around that they get the new unit COMPLETELY connected when its installed. The head unit is the bus controller for a databus that routes around behind the dash and controls several of your car's functions. There's no quicker way to screw up your car than to mess around with the radio head unit improperly.
you can score the new 103 amp booster as well, might as well try as long as they are replacing everything. If you're wondering what we are talking about go to the Impala Radio board here on Edmunds and read up, see if it applies to you, I'm sure that it does!
My grandfather took his car in last week and the Chevy people put his car on the computer to diagnose the problem. It came up with a code that said that there was a problem with the Fuel Pump Relay. Just thought I'd let you guys know. Take care.
I need the service number for a 2001 Chevy Impala 3.8L PCM. If anyone has it or can tell me where to get it please tell me. Any help is greatly appreciated!
My engine's random stuttering has increased from about once a month to about three times a week now. I haven't seen anything on this problem in a long time. I am reluctant to take the car to the dealer because random ocurring problems are almost always non-duplicable. When I do take the car in, I would like to have some possible solutions in hand. Any solutions from those who had the problem corrected would be appreciated.
Hank, I noticed some hesitation in my 2001 LS, so I brought it in for service. They told me the fuel injectors were clogged. This is after less than 3000 miles! They cleaned the injectors, and it's running better now. Recently, I've switched to premium gas, which has also helped. Ask your dealer to check the injectors, fuel pump, and fuel filter. Also, try changing the brand and grade of gasoline, and see if that does anything.
After only 2 months, the drivers seat is loose. Every time I stop, the seat back jerks forward a tad. Very annoying. They couldn't fix it when I first brought in, as they were too busy with the fuel injectors, and their "trim" guy was out that day. They do acknowledge the problem, and have vowed to repair it when I return. I think I've seen other people mention a similar problem. I'm wondering if it's common. Can I see a show of hands of anyone that's had problems with the power driver's seat? Thanks
I wonder if anyone out there has the same problem that I am experiencing with my 2001 Impala LS. At about 1,200 miles, while driving my engine shut off and my red battery light went on. I lost all power. I pulled off to the side of the road and waited about five minutes until trying to start the car. I took it to the dealer and they could find nothing wron with it. For a few months, the car drove like a dream. No problem whatsoever. Then, yesterday at 4,000 miles the same thing happened to my wife while she was driving the car. She was going about 40 miles an hour when the car stalled out and the red engine light went on. She pulled off the road and put the car in park. She tried to start the car but nothing happened. She waited fifteen minutes and tried again and this time the car started right up. When I got home from work, I drove the car and had no problem. I called the dealer and they said they would look at it again. The problem is if they don't experience the same problem while they have the car, it will be hard for them to make a diagnosis. Has anyone experienced this problem? The strange thing is that the car was fine in between incidents. It drove like a real dream. Can anyone offer me any advice? Thank You.
Sweetpolly had this problem and got the rail replaced that the driver seat runs on, I am having similar problem but notice it only when I brake hard. I will be bringing it in to have them look at it as well. I understand that rail is like 600.00 so get it done before warranty runs out!
I have about 32,000 miles left on the warranty. I'm pretty busy, but I think I can squeeze it in before the warranty runs out. ;-) I'm sure I'll be getting to know my service manager well, before the warranty runs out. I assumed as much when I bought a Chevy. That's one time I wish I was wrong.
I was wondering if anyone else has had a problem with water in the passangers floor board. I know that there is a TSB on the AC. I called the shop yesterday and the guy said that it could be anything from the window left down to the windshield leaking to the ac draining. I have had water in the floor twice now. I have washed the car with a pressure washer and haven't noticed the windshield leak. I have also driven it in several hard rains. The first time it happened, I don't recall it raining. It happened again yesterday when it was down pouring. I bought the 2000 Impala used but I also purchased an extended warranty if anything should happen. Any ideas?
The TSB that covers this is 00-01-38-012: Carpet Wet On Passenger Side of Vehicle (Clean Evaporator Case Drain, If Plugged); 1999 - 2000 Chevrolet Monte Carlo, 2000 Chevrolet Impala
I wonder if anyone out there has the same problem that I am having with my 2001 LS. At about 1,200 miles while driving my engine shut off and my red battery light went on. The car lost all power. I pulled off the road and waited about five minutes before trying to start the car again. The car started. I took the car to the dealer and they could find nothing wrong with the car. For a few months, the car drove like a dream. Then, yesterday at 4000 miles the same thing happened to my wife while she was driving the car. she was going about 40 MPH when the car stalled out and the red engine light went on. She pulled off the road and put the car in park. She tried to start the car but nothing happened. She waited fifteen minutes and tried to start the car again. This time it started. When I got home from work, I drove the car and had no problem. I called the dealer and said they would look at it again. The problem is if they don't experience the same problem while they have the car, it will be hard for them to make a diagnosis. Has anyone had this problem? The strange thing is that the car is fine in between incidents. Can anyone offer any advice?
Dear Kenbuzz: Thank you for your advice on my engine shutdown. Since the last incident, I have had no trouble with the car. The salesman whom I bought the car from is taking it in to the dealer on Monday morning. He claims it will be very difficult to diagnose this unless it happens while he or the dealer has the car. But I will relay to him your advice. This is really very frustrating because I really like the car and it really is a pleasure to drive except for this problem. I will keep you informed of this matter.
joed56: This problem sounds very familiar to me. Not on my Impala but on a 82 Ford Escort I used to own. Same exact symptoms. You can crank the car after it dies correct? The problem with the escort was the ECM (electronic control module). When it got just the right temp a component would fail and the car would die. Let it sit for anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes and cool off and it would start and the problem might not come back for some time. I guessing your having a similar problem somewhere in your electronics. I haven't delved into 3.8L engine much since my company reimburses me for repairs so I take it to the dealer (also under warranty). You might try posting on the Impala Sedans board. Someone like Teo or others might be able to give a more definitive answer. Also, is the "service engine soon" light posting any codes?
Dear Impalanator: Than you for your advice re: my 01 Impala. I am going to make a copy of your response and give it to the service manager of the dealer where I bought the car. I will be taking the car to the salesman's house and he is going to bring it in Monday morning. I'm at my wits end with this. Since the last incident(72hrs. ago), the car has driven like a dream. I also will be going on the Impala Sedan's Board and try to contact Teo. Will keep you posted on the outcome.
My wife and I went to head to the store yesterday. I cranked up the 2001 Impala (10k miles) and it sounded normal as it usually does, then it just died, killed off cold-dead. Went to crank it again and realized that it was as if the battery had been disconnected. There was absolutely no life to the car at all (no dome lights, no nothing!). We opened the hood, looked around and didn't see anything unusual (no smoking wires or anything). Popped the passenger side fuse cover off, nothing screamed out at me. She sat in the driver's seat, and all of a sudden the car had life again. Tried to crank it again, it ran for about 1/2 second, then died again.
So, we left it alone until this afternoon. While waiting for the tow truck to come, I tried to crank it up again. Got the 1/2 second run-time before it died dead again. After that, I couldn't do anything to get any life out of the car.
Sooo.. while we're waiting for a call from the dealer tomorrow, has anyone else seen this before? I skimmed the other articles, but didn't see anything quite like this experience posted here.
Dear Camattin: I have an 01 Impala LS with 4000 miles on it. While I am not experiencing the same problem as your, my problem is that my car stalls but will start up again after a short while. To make a long story short, the dealer is replacing the ECM which is basically the computer of the car. I'm not saying this is the problem with your car but this is what I am experiencing. Let us know how you make out. Joe
Dear Kenbuzz: I got my car back from the dealer yesterday and they had to change power train control module. The service manager said it was causing the fuel pump to malfunction. Hopefully, this will do the trick and I will have no more problems. Thank for your advice. Joe
I have been reading this site since I purchased my 2000 Impala in Jan. 2000. The build date of the car is 12-99. I want to thank everyone for giving me insite on what to expect when problems occur which they now have been doing after reaching the 20000 mile plateau.
Here is an update on service issues with my car which seems pretty consistent with everyone elses.
1. The infamous Amp Booster......The new 103 amp booster is on order at no charge by dealer now. I didnt get much help on this one from the dealership I bought the car at but took it to another dealer and had no problems.
2. Intermediate Steering shaft began acting up at about 22000 miles and has been replaced.
3. Front Struts replaced but dont believe they were bad. I showed the mechanic commentary from this Owners club about the steering shaft but guess he thought I was not about to tell him his job. Once again, this was the dealership I purchased the car from.
4. Rotors went bad at 20000 miles and replaced.
5. Power driver seat trac a little loose. I only noticed this during acceleration or braking. The dealer has ordered a new seat adjuster for it. I gave them the posts on the seat trac problem but they dont think that was the problem in my case...I suspect they are wrong on this one.
6. The headliner is loose under the moonroof. I forgot to tell them about that one.. Ha Ha.
7. Key Fobs working intermittently... The dealership could not duplicate the problem and said the relay checked out o.k. so nothing done on this one at this time. I will replace batteries and if that doesnt work back it goes.
8. I noticed a new noise after getting the car back from the steering shaft replacement which sounds like it may be coming from the tachometer. I dont know if it is related to the shaft replacement or not.
I sure hope thats it for awhile. The engine cradle is still fine as far as I can tell. No symptoms of a weak weld as yet. Maybe I got lucky there and got one of the stronger welds on the early production cars.
If we can get all these bugs out we will probably keep this car a long time as we love the ride and nice upgrades in a fully loaded LS. My wife loves the radio controls in the steering and I love the independent climate controls. The quality of the leather is poor in my opinion and the moonroof lifting out of the roof rather than flush is too noisy because of wind resistance so I couldnt recommend that option to anyone. But for the most part as long as we can get past having so many service issues as I stated above we will be keeping this car a long time.
Again, thanks everyone for your postings as it has helped me a ton in helping the mechanics figure out what is wrong with the car.
I've read a number of posts regarding snapping and/or popping noises from the front of the car. I seem to remember them being caused by a number of different things: steering shaft, engine cradle, and even climate control. I think I may be suffering from this problem, but I'm not sure.
Ever since I got the car (4/7/01), I've heard an occassional noise that sounds like a pebble smacking against the windsheild. The first few times, I thought that I just didn't see the pebble. However, since I have never seen any pebbles actually hitting the windshield, have never seen any damage to the windshield, and have heard this while driving over smooth, pebble-free roads, I'm beginning to think it may be one of those documented snap/pop noise issues.
I would appreciate it if anybody who has experienced this please describe the sound, and tell me what to look for or recommend to the service dept. when I bring it in. I have to have the driver's seat repaired next wednesday, and I'd like to kill two birds.
I thought I was CRAZY! I have heard the popping noise occasionally to. Sounds exactly as you describe it. A rock or something hitting the windsheild. I have only witnessed an object actually hitting the glass once. This morning, ironically.
Geez, I hope we don't have a more serious prob. If the noise was more consistent, I'd worry. I only seem to hear it from time to time while on the E-way. Gotta be me hearing things...
The noise you hear is not the engine cradle (Problem solved a long time ago due to the re-enforced welds), the ISS (Which makes faint clunks felt on the steering wheel but no audible noises) and most certainly it is not your climate control system (Brief problem with early product Impalas made in 1999).
Guess what?
It is the top dashboard piece that extends the width of the dashboard and it is located at the very base of the windshield. The top dashboard has 2 pieces. The main dashboard top and the second piece that is located near the bottom of the windshield (Where your light sensor is located).
On hot days this piece may start to creak because the clips are expanding/contracting due to the intense heat. This piece is exposed completely to the light/heat. When you put slight hand pressure on top of it you might here the peeble sound.
One solution is to remove this plastic piece and put gobs of grease in the fastening clips and put it back.
That's all no fuss or mystery. Don't go crazy looking for noises in the cradle, ISS or HVAC controls because those no longer exist there...it comes from this simple top dash plastic trim.
That's one less thing for them to look for when I bring it in on Wednesday for the driver's seat and uneven idle/hesitation problem. Apparently, flushing the injectors didn't completely solve the latter. Do you have any ideas? Thanks.
with teo's assesment of the snap noise at the windshield, several times I've had the same thing and thought, oh oh, there goes the windshield! That thing runs dang near 1000.00, thankfully I have windshield coverage on insurance that costs 14.00 per year! I've never once seen the pepple coming or seen it actually hit and it's happened at least 5 times. It happened yesterday and I thought it did it again, but it was just the dash.
You know after it was mentioned, the pop happened to me. Because it sounded high on the windshield, I think it came from the plastic rearview mirror housing. The car was sitting in the sun and I had cranked up the A/C to cool it down. After I heard the noise, I squeezed the housing and *pop*, the same noise.
I already have three big scratches and 2-3 dings in my windshield already. =(
It happened to me on the way home from the dealer. I heard the snap, and thought "Gosh darn it! (Not exactly those words) A pebble hit my windshield after having the car for 5 minutes!" I thought I was lucky that it didn't have a crack. Now I know why...imaginary pebbles.
Teo: You hit it on the head. On a fishing trip this past Saturday, I heard the noise. It was in the 90's and I had the A/C blasting. A buddy said the noise was due to the expanding/contracting properties of something in the car. Good call.
Garypen: The speakers are sounding great! Whatever the service dept. did seems to have made the difference and I can hear my music without any resonance. The Alpines shine. Seperate tweeters would be sweet, but I think I'll lay off of modifying her for now.
I have yet to buy a new car of any make that hasn't had something go wrong with it soon after I got it home. Has anyone had any problems with the directionals on a 2000 impala ls? I just bought my car in May of 2001 (got a good deal on it since it was a 2000) with 23 miles on it. This is an intermitent problem (of course). When you put the directionals on, nothing happens. There is no click noise on the stearing column, no lights illuminated on the dash, and no clicking sound at all - the blinkers aren't working. It would seam they aren't being activated at all. Up - down - up - down -- NOTHING! However, the windshield wipers work, the cruise control, and the high beams. Then, the next time a turn a corner and push the lever, they work. This problem started out occuring once or twice a week and now it happens 90% of the time. Except of course when the mechanic at the dealership tries it. Help me please!
I also have problems with my rotors... however, my dealer says that after 12000 miles it isn't a warrantied item, that it becomes a maintenance item, so he won't replace them under warranty
Comments
(tounge firmly planted in cheek!)
I agree with the people about the em tires. I put Kelly Chargers on this car about 3000 miles ago.... Much better tires.
This is the best car I've ever owned.
All the TSB's are making me very nervous about the reliability of this car!
Thanks Again
For future reference, I would have immediately pinged OnStar for assistance. One of the things you're paying them for is to read engine diagnostic codes and recommend remedies.
The Ford Focus has has five safety recalls. The Escape isn't doing that well either. I would recommend an Impala to anyone who asked and if I had to do it over again, I would still buy an Impala.
To put this in perspective, imagine if our car was made by Microsoft. On a weekly basis, our car would die unexpectivly and we would have to get out of the car and get back in before it started. Every so often we would have to uninstall the engine and re install it. And every year they would change the gasoline and we would have to buy a new car to use it.
today I went out to do some maintenance on my 2000 Impala and was unable to release the hood latch
it pulls back as normal but wont "pop" if you know what I mean. Has anyone experienced this and if so can someone advise me how to manually release it as easily as possible?
thanks in advance
The hood "pop" sounds like the hood and the latch need to be adjusted. Remember when closing the hood, just "dropping it from waist level is enough to close the hood properly. Anything more means you need an adjustment. The weight of the hood is more than enough force to close the hood properly.
First off, when you talk about pulling the hood release latch, I am assuming you are talking about the one inside the car. There are two latches, the one inside the car will release the hood and the second one is the backup latch that is found under the hood.
It could be that the spring that pushes up the hood is broken/missing. To open the hood, pull the latch while someone else lifts up on the hood. The hood should come up about 2-3 inches. Then release the second latch and lift up the hood. Take a look at the latch, There should be two springs. The big spring is what pushes the hood back up.
If you cannot move the hood, something serious is wrong (hood missalignment) and you gotta take it to the dealer or a body shop. If you can wait, I'll try and upload some photos this afternoon.
Thanks
wwnf
Oh, Also, do I need to get new brake pads, I think I read somewhere once that you should buy new pads when you get new rotors.
What is bad about cross drilled rotors?
Keep us posted.
Ask your dealer to check the injectors, fuel pump, and fuel filter. Also, try changing the brand and grade of gasoline, and see if that does anything.
I think I've seen other people mention a similar problem. I'm wondering if it's common. Can I see a show of hands of anyone that's had problems with the power driver's seat?
Thanks
I'm sure I'll be getting to know my service manager well, before the warranty runs out. I assumed as much when I bought a Chevy. That's one time I wish I was wrong.
Jon
Joe
So, we left it alone until this afternoon. While waiting for the tow truck to come, I tried to crank it up again. Got the 1/2 second run-time before it died dead again. After that, I couldn't do anything to get any life out of the car.
Sooo.. while we're waiting for a call from the dealer tomorrow, has anyone else seen this before? I skimmed the other articles, but didn't see anything quite like this experience posted here.
Here is an update on service issues with my car which seems pretty consistent with everyone elses.
1. The infamous Amp Booster......The new 103 amp booster is on order at no charge by dealer now. I didnt get much help on this one from the dealership I bought the car at but took it to another dealer and had no problems.
2. Intermediate Steering shaft began acting up at about 22000 miles and has been replaced.
3. Front Struts replaced but dont believe they were bad. I showed the mechanic commentary from this Owners club about the steering shaft but guess he thought I was not about to tell him his job. Once again, this was the dealership I purchased the car from.
4. Rotors went bad at 20000 miles and replaced.
5. Power driver seat trac a little loose. I only noticed this during acceleration or braking. The dealer has ordered a new seat adjuster for it. I gave them the posts on the seat trac problem but they dont think that was the problem in my case...I suspect they are wrong on this one.
6. The headliner is loose under the moonroof. I forgot to tell them about that one.. Ha Ha.
7. Key Fobs working intermittently... The dealership could not duplicate the problem and said the relay checked out o.k. so nothing done on this one at this time. I will replace batteries and if that doesnt work back it goes.
8. I noticed a new noise after getting the car back from the steering shaft replacement which sounds like it may be coming from the tachometer. I dont know if it is related to the shaft replacement or not.
I sure hope thats it for awhile. The engine cradle is still fine as far as I can tell. No symptoms of a weak weld as yet. Maybe I got lucky there and got one of the stronger welds on the early production cars.
If we can get all these bugs out we will probably keep this car a long time as we love the ride and nice upgrades in a fully loaded LS. My wife loves the radio controls in the steering and I love the independent climate controls. The quality of the leather is poor in my opinion and the moonroof lifting out of the roof rather than flush is too noisy because of wind resistance so I couldnt recommend that option to anyone. But for the most part as long as we can get past having so many service issues as I stated above we will be keeping this car a long time.
Again, thanks everyone for your postings as it has helped me a ton in helping the mechanics figure out what is wrong with the car.
Ever since I got the car (4/7/01), I've heard an occassional noise that sounds like a pebble smacking against the windsheild. The first few times, I thought that I just didn't see the pebble. However, since I have never seen any pebbles actually hitting the windshield, have never seen any damage to the windshield, and have heard this while driving over smooth, pebble-free roads, I'm beginning to think it may be one of those documented snap/pop noise issues.
I would appreciate it if anybody who has experienced this please describe the sound, and tell me what to look for or recommend to the service dept. when I bring it in. I have to have the driver's seat repaired next wednesday, and I'd like to kill two birds.
Thanks.
Geez, I hope we don't have a more serious prob. If the noise was more consistent, I'd worry. I only seem to hear it from time to time while on the E-way. Gotta be me hearing things...
RR
How are your speakers sounding, now that you've gotten the door/window fixed?
Guess what?
It is the top dashboard piece that extends the width of the dashboard and it is located at the very base of the windshield. The top dashboard has 2 pieces. The main dashboard top and the second piece that is located near the bottom of the windshield (Where your light sensor is located).
On hot days this piece may start to creak because the clips are expanding/contracting due to the intense heat. This piece is exposed completely to the light/heat. When you put slight hand pressure on top of it you might here the peeble sound.
One solution is to remove this plastic piece and put gobs of grease in the fastening clips and put it back.
That's all no fuss or mystery. Don't go crazy looking for noises in the cradle, ISS or HVAC controls because those no longer exist there...it comes from this simple top dash plastic trim.
Guys, relax ande enjoy your cars!
Thanks.
I already have three big scratches and 2-3 dings in my windshield already. =(
I thought I was lucky that it didn't have a crack. Now I know why...imaginary pebbles.
Garypen: The speakers are sounding great! Whatever the service dept. did seems to have made the difference and I can hear my music without any resonance. The Alpines shine. Seperate tweeters would be sweet, but I think I'll lay off of modifying her for now.
How are those JBL's?
Thank God 'Crazy' is a relative term, huh?
Later, all!
RR
New Jersey commuter (80 miles a day)
I own a new 2001 LS (1SC package) that now has 1000 miles on it. So far so good, but I'd like to know about anything to keep my eye on.
however, my dealer says that after 12000 miles it isn't a warrantied item, that it becomes a maintenance item, so he won't replace them under warranty
how did you get your rotors replaced at 20000?