I had the exact same problem with my '98 Lumina. The dealer traced it to a bent pin in one of the connectors under the dash. Try suggesting that to your dealer.
BTW, once that was fixed on the Lumina it ran perfectly for the 3 years I owned it. Brad
I just had my Impala rotors replaced at 21,000 miles. At 13,000 miles we developed pulsating in the brakes. It's my wife's car that she uses for her job, so she took it in for a check out the first time, and they turned the rotors. Started again at 20,500 miles and I told her to take it back again and demand new rotors. Dealership told us they had 18,000 warranty, but would replace them since they had been done before. They also put on new pads, even though the originals were not in bad shape. Hope front brake problems don't become a trend.
If you experience premature brake problems, then insist on brand new rotors.
The 'turning' rotor tactic is widely used by dealers to keep resurfacing the disks until they give up. By the time they are trash you'll be out of the bumper to bumper warranty period.
The Impala has much better brakes which are light years away from the underpowered units found in the N body cars such as the Malibu, Alero and Grand AM.
The brakes in the Impala are huge (Police grade) thus they better disipate excess heat.
If it makes you feel better, then there are always aftermarket brake alternative such as cross drilled rotors....but more expensive than the OEM stuff.
Hello Woo by.........In answer to your question about the rotor replacement after reaching 20000 miles in my Impala...
It was no problem at the dealer as far as replacement of the rotors. After complaining about a shudder when braking they checked the brakes out found the rotors were warped and replaced them both without my asking.
I had mine turned at 12K and then at 24K, and yes they really made sure they didn't tell me that it was 12k/12month warranty.
I should have made them replace them but I can't trust my dealership, that's why I do all the work I can on my own car.
I installed new good rotors and cermaic pads on my Imapala. I also make sure I torque my wheels as the manual says to ensure proper operation/lifetime of my components.
By the way, the rotors on my Impala 2000 LS are the exact same rotors on the 98 Camaro.
Does anyone actually have the complete TSB's, 00-01-38-003A, 00-01-38-007, 99-01-39-007A, 99-01-38-005, which relate to the popping noise from the dash, and A/C performance. If so, it would be greatly appreciated if they could be posted here. Thanks.
Here's general information. I bought this Impala in September '99, production date 7/99, 20,000 miles. I like the Impala, it's a fine, nice driving car but I to had noise front end, rear end, everywhere. I'll tell you what I did to clear it all and I don't know which one did it. I had the new rear wheel wells added, the front left wheel well was flopping and they scotch tied that together, I think to the frame. I do know that they added the shims to the bottom of my steering shaft but I think the one that cleared up most of it was the copper line that ran across the back of the rear motor cradle (a good cradle weld and no cradle cracks). Then they had to order 2 P/S line clamps (item #26059727)as both clamps were broken. Now the noise I was having, as I drove across a bridge that had the blacktop broken out of the roadbed it would sound like rocks were hitting the bottom of the car or a popping noise and vibration from everywhere in the front and the back. This even happened on concrete roads where the two sections come together. It sounded like a lot of things were loose and rattling & I hope this helps you but I think the steering shaft shims and the P/S clamps helped the most because I have a smooth running car today. I am pop free on all bumps. Sorry for the rambling but hope this helps someone.
Thanks! I can't speak for hunter, RR, or spyder, who have complained about a similar noise, but it really does sound like it's coming from the plastic dash in my car. Maybe I'll just spend a few hours trying to rig up something to stop it. Maybe they could have used a better grade of plastic that doesn't expand so much. Maybe they could have molded it to to fit properly, taking into account the expansion. Maybe it's just another thing I'm supposed to get used to.
It's like the service consultant says at my incredibly busy Chevy service dept, "That's the way they're made." It must be something they teach them at service school, as another forum poster mentioned his service guy saying practically the same thing. (Was it RR?)
The following day, I brought my "other car" to the "other car" dealer's service dept. It was an entirely different experience. It was probably due to the fact that there were so few cars there being serviced. I'd say maybe 10-15% of the number of vehicles at the Chevy dealer. Plus, the oil change was $5 cheaper! They must have been using that cheap foreign oil.
They better treat you really well at the Acura dealer. After spending close to $30K they should roll a red carpet and serve you Champagne for each service visit.
My Acura dealer experience was good but not outstanding. Actually my Chevy dealer is alot quicker and better than my Acura dealer ever was. Lots of Legends, CL's and Integras awaiting for service...
It was $26,000 actually, and the payments are lower than the Impala due to higher resale value. I could get a $30,000 TL-S for the same payment as the Impala. Obviously, I didn't know that at the time. Be that as it may, since many Chevys, such as SUV's and Vettes, cost well over $30K, I would expect the same level of service from them.
Maybe I should try a different Chevy dealer's service dept. They're just so nice at Courtesy. Competence may more important, but I like being treated well. It's a pleasant change. They're moving locations, so I think I'll give 'em a few weeks to settle in at the new place, and then try 'em again. I'm sure it'll be a better experience.
As a side note: That Integra is one cheap car. That may be why you saw so many at your dealer's service dept. It's sold as a low level Honda in Japan. I always wondered why it wasn't a Honda here, and the Prelude, which is a very good sport coupe, wasn't sold as an Acura. Apparently, it doesn't matter what country a car company's HQ is located. They ALL make stupid marketing, design, and manufacturing decisions.
The RSX is a very reasonably priced little hotty. If it was available a few months ago, we would probably have chosen that over the CL, and gone for more luxury in our sedan with the savings.
I'm curious to see what sport coupe Chevy will be replacing the Camaro with. Do you have any inside info?
Yeah, that was me that got the "that's the way they're made" comment from the service mgr. Leaves me scratching my head, but that could be a test question for the ASE cert. HA! I have been looking for info on that TSB myself to see what the resolution is...
Had my Navy Blue 2001 LS (build 04/01) in for the 10,000km oil change/tire rotation/re-balancing/etc. Almost everything went well (they even hand-tourqued the lug nuts to 100 ft/lbs - supposedly).
I had them look at the roof trim strips because they were starting to lift fairly severely at the back and were pulling up the window molding. The tech pulled one of them off completely, then realized what he had done and tried to stick it back on. What a MESS! Of course they've already ordered the replacement part.
After I picked up the car I was speaking to my sales guy. He basically invoked the "that's the way they're made" line when I pointed out the untouched roof strip that was sticking up at the end. He said "the solution to that is Benz" (you need to buy a $120,000 car to get the level of fit and finish that doesn't include lifting roof strips). I'm now not sure what to do with the "untouched" strip. After seeing what they did to the other one, I'm tempted just to leave it be since I'm now worried how the new one will look, particularly since it has to be paint-matched.
Anyone that's had them replaced - do they look as good as the factory installed ones (before they started lifting)?
I just did a new article on this very subject. You know, everyone who has been considering having their dealer do it/have had it done say that the trim has to be painted to match the car. My car is black and the roof trim is made of black plastic. Can't the dealer's order the trim to match the color of the car. The door emblems come already painted why not the roof molding?
Finally got the passenger side done yesterday. The paint matches exactly (Sand Drift Metallic) and so far the driver's side has stayed down since being replaced about a month ago. As for the "Benz" and "That's how they're made" comments, that's skirting the obvious issue. As Dr. Demming would invoke - that's a process control issue, irregardless of vehicle line.
Those are half assed comments indeed. That's simply a spinning response to a customer complaint.
My service manager doesn't tell me "That's how they are made"...he takes charge of the problem, apologizes and gets it fixed.
That salesman implying that you should buy a MB to get a quality car is the most absurd and stupid comment ever heard. I hope his manager catches him one day saying that to his clients.
If you don't believe in the product you sell, get the heck out of the store. He should be selling toothpaste and soap not cars.
Those comments are the dealer's reflection on how they handle customer issues and complaints..too bad.
I was really surprised that my sales guy made the "Benz" comment. It's the first time I've thought that he's been totally jaded into accepting sub-standard quality.
Fortunately the service manager is working with me to get it fixed.
Remember, I do have an "ace in the hole" at this dealership. My brother-in-law is the parts manager ;-) I hope that's not the only reason I get good service!
I mentioned it in a post on the main board the other day, I'm having that intermitent turn signal probalem, I'll see about the bent pin, but not sure how it could get bent since no one had a reason to be around that area on previous service visits. I think they will be willing to change the whole unit and be done with it, this is a good dealership...
anything yet but I will make those suggestions to them when I bring it in. Since it's a warranty item fix they offered a free loaner car (Astro Van)and said they'd need it for the whole day, no problem, as long as it's fixed. What's a good brake pad replacement? If I'm only getting 23-25k in miles on pads I don't think OEM is the way to go.
Hunter39 - You have a choice, replace the brake pads more often or the rotors. They make brake pads last longer by making them harder... read as "upping the metal component". Its a friction system. Something has to wear. Brake pads are generally cheaper. As a plus the softer pads are generally quieter. Hard pads tend to squeal. I've seen people go to "lifetime" brake pads only to end up replace their rotors every 30-40K miles. The best thing they ever made brake pads out of was asbestos. The perfect material. Stupid mechanics kept snortin the dust though.
Hello everyone. I just bought a silver 2000 LS model and I think it's a great car. Here are a few observations/problems I have discovered so far: 1)I have the middle two tail-lights out even though the car only has about 24,000 miles on it. The back-up lights work fine though. The passenger side-marker light is also out. No big deal if it's only the bulbs but that seems like an early burn-out time.
2)The rearview mirror is loose/flimsy feeling--maybe the previous owner damaged it.
3)The radio has weak signal reception. I think this may be caused by the rear-window antenne since it sounds fine with cass or CD.
4)The heated leather seats are great, but not in August when it's 88 degrees outside! I discovered that the switch is real easy to hit by mistake, so be careful.
5)The car was used and only had one key-fob-remote so I bought a second one. The dealer's service guys programmed it and I drove home. The next day I discovered the original fob did'nt work. After reading the owner's manual I reprogrammed both fobs myself and now they both work. So I guess if you get a new fob-remote you will have to reprogram your old one at the time you program the new one.
6)After reading the posts here I will definitly get better tires. The ones it came with make alittle too much noise and they "cry" if I take a turn even alittle fast.
Otherwise, I think the car is terrific so far and is beautiful too!
You do not have burnt out tail lights. The middle two lights do not function, they are only cosmetic. Only the backup portion actually works. Yes, strange, but true.
Had one replaced this morning (didn't have time for them to do both). They DO come pre-painted. There is a long list of part numbers that correspond to the various paint colours. They also come pre-shaped to the contour of the roof, so it seems really strange to me that the ends pull up (although I didn't look really carefully at the ends so maybe the fit isn't exact).
I'll let everyone know how they hold in place this time around. Brad
As long as they were putting fake ones on the back, couldn't they have thrown another pair on there as long as they were going for that retro look? I'm especially fond of the rocket engine flame tip taillights of old. Cool with a capital "oo".
Lately I have been getting a lot of road feedback in my steering. I have a Impala LS 2000. I have noticed it for the last 10 days and seems to be getting worse. Unfortunately I have 37K miles on my car. I was just wondering if anyone has heard anyone else with the same problem. I always like to look into my problems before my dealership makes it worse, . Thanks
This loose feeling is apparent when going over bumps and ruff roads. Some say tie rods, but I'm going to check things out.
I have 2000 impala LS That has been fixed 4 times in the past 10 months and now service manager tells me GM is aware of this problem and it is welds and where cradle is hooked to the body of the car mine sounds like glass being ground up, it makes this sound when going over bumps and sitting still you can not hear this with windows up roll windows down pull into a car wash while it quite just sit there turn steering wheel and listen if you hear this sound it can not be fixed at this time says GM
Well folks it's day 4 and my 7MONTH old Impala is still at the dealer for repair. The wipers froze in the center of the windshield as I was driving the expressway on Sunday. It will be extremely interesting what the solution is. They did provide a rental but - it stinks- like cigarette smoke- I WANT MY CAR BACK. Hope it's resolved today and I'll post what the problem was.
The dealer has replaced it 4 times and steering rack 3 times and put in shims and only last about 2 weeks then it comes sneaking back now GM is getting ready to buy the car back and also have put it in writing that they have no fix at this time you know this could be dangerous thing since the engine cradle supports all of drive train and front suspension last cradle in 8 17 2001
Have them buy the car back. You got a lemon. Check the Impala (Sedans) forum. Someone there just posted that Chevy is buying his car back for almost the same problem.
NOT FIXED! After 4 days they said the car was ready and I got the- couldn't duplicate the problem- he didn't put it on the ticket that was duplicated the AM I brought it in. Said they checked all connections and "Reseated" the module, ran the wipers for 30 minutes and couldn't get it to duplicate problem. They had it for 4 days because I also complained about loose molding on the passenger side- part ordered over a month ago- part was now in. I got a song and dance each day about paint needing to dry, next day it was just back from body shop and wipers being looked at- etc. Then when I called to pick it up they told me the molding strip was not done because they didn't have the "clips " to mount it. That was what I noticed and told them when they ordered the part to begin with- missing clips and loose molding. I'm headed to Chevy customer service # in the AM. This was completely unacceptable and involved out and out lies- car is out for painting the molding- drying- just back from body shop. I'm pretty ticked! The rental I had was a mini-van. Nice folks at Enterprise but I don't want a mini-van- I want my 7 month old Impala with properly functioning wipers.
I too, have a 2001 Impala with the roof strips peeling up. I was wondering if yours our staying down since you had them replaced and how long it took them to replace them. I would leave them alone, but am afraid that it could effect the windshield trim eventually. Since these are pre-painted strips, I assume they do no painting to replace them?
21,500 miles and no trouble with my Impala. Only the roof strip and amp. Mechanically, it is sound.
Blckthree - your timing is scary! I was just about to post a follow up on this!
I had one strip replaced a few weeks ago. The strip DOES come pre-painted - there is a long list of part numbers for these strips, left and right for each colour. I have the other strip in my garage waiting to be installed, but I wanted to see how the dealer did on the first one.
I would recommend that you NOT let the dealer's service department replace the strips for several reasons: 1) When they remove the old strip, they have to clean all the adhesive out of the "groove". When they did this to my car they put some slight swirl marks into my paint (grrrr). 2) They didn't do the greatest job at fitting the replacement strip into the "groove". I admit I'm probably the only person that will ever notice that the replacement doesn't follow a perfect line, but I'm pretty anal about my car. 3) It's starting to lift again after only a few weeks.
If you take it to the dealer, I would INSIST that the body shop do the work, NOT the service department. And if you're as anal as I am, tell them in advance.
I'm trying to decide how I'm going to approach this. I might try to fix them myself using Nathan's approach, or I might talk to the dealer and have the body shop work on it, or I might take it to a different body shop. I'll let everyone know what I decide and how it all works out.
Other than this small problem, "Hooloo" has been fantastic. I just had her in for the 15k km oil change.
I had the same concerns, that they would mess up the job and the new strips not stay down any better than the first ones. I had read someplace, and I wish I could remember where, that someone had their strips repaired and not replaced and they had it done at a windshield repair shop. They used some kind of an adhesive to repair it. I remember them writing about having a bunch of masking tape in place overnight and that it was better the next day, but I don't have any idea who or where, or if it held up over time either.
I would have assumed that a job like that would automatically be done by the body shop and not the service shop?? They did not have the body shop do it. Maybe that is part of the reason that yours is pulling up again already.
Don't waste your precious time getting them replaced by the dealer. Driveby your nearest Safelite or other autoglass shop and ask them to put a nice bead of URETHANE under the ends of the roofstrip that have already come off. Let it cure for 24 hours and PRESTO!!!.
Urethane is the adhesive used to glue down car windshields, so you can be assured that this will be the strongest bonding stuff available to fix the roof strips.
Urethane of the Beta rapid cure type should also yield excellent results.
Clean and very efficient job.
I am outta here...
See everyone back at the "2000 Impala" club at Yahoo...
I stopped at the dealer today to check on the progress of the "mounting clips" for the trim (called a rocker panel) on my car. Miracle- the part is in- not so miracle -no-one called. They came in on Friday.(today is Tues.) They quickly installed them with the new panel they painted when I had it in for 4 days. I should probably mention I got a clue about why it took 4 days to not finish it the first time when the manager mentioned they painted the panel green to match my car and then discovered the car is Navy Blue! In the meantime I pointed out some separation of the leather seat on the drivers side from the panel or clip that faces the drivers door. They are ordering a new seat cover and will have it installed at a special shop that does reapholstering. Again- we'll call when the part is in. They did wash my car this time. NOT sure if I should be happy or not. Love my car but not loving the service yet.
I bought my 2000 Impala in May 2000. I have 47,000 miles on it right now. I wish I could say I have had the good luck that many of you have had. I'll start off by saying I love the car, but I have several issues that I feel GM should address. I am on my 3rd set of rotors, the first 2 warped and were replaced, the rear brakes have squeaked from day one. I had the "clicking" sound from the front end by 2500 miles, the dealer had the TSB that stated they need to reinforce the welds due to the sub-frame flexing. That issue is fixed. I have experienced hesitation upon acceleration when pulling out into traffic, it feels like the car is getting too much fuel and choking itself. This last about 5 to 7 seconds, then the car surges forward. It is an intermit ant problem that has occurred about 15 times, but CAN'T BE DUPLICATED BY SERVICE" I have also experienced a transmission "buck", The car jumps when it shifts almost like it was stuck in gear and suddenly let loose to shift. When I turn the car off, it is almost like the tyranny resets it self, and the problem is no more. Most recently I had my steering shaft replaced, the dealer covered it under "Good Will Terms Warranty". They told me that Chevy is aware of an issue with the shaft and are working on a fix. The symptoms was a clunking sound from the front end almost like something was loose and rolling around. I was able to feel it in the steering as well as hear it. If you experience this bring it in and get it fixed. Like I said, I am out of warranty, but the dealer I went to replaced it FREE. The final straw that has really made me mad was an ignition issue. There were time that I would put the key in the ignition to start the car, but the key wouldn't turn. I pulled it out, tried again and invariably it would work again. If you have experienced this, tell you dealer immediately, and have them make a record of it. I learned the hard way to the tune of $600. The ignition switch and cylinder needed to be replaced. I have written to Chevy Customer Care. My feeling is the ignition have no bearing on the number of miles you put on a vehicle, and mine is 17 months new. I would love to hear if anyone else has experienced the ignition, transmission, or acceleration issues.
Comments
BTW, once that was fixed on the Lumina it ran perfectly for the 3 years I owned it.
Brad
As much as I enjoy going fast, I also enjoy being able to stop. It's a yin yang sort of thing.
If you experience premature brake problems, then insist on brand new rotors.
The 'turning' rotor tactic is widely used by dealers to keep resurfacing the disks until they give up. By the time they are trash you'll be out of the bumper to bumper warranty period.
The Impala has much better brakes which are light years away from the underpowered units found in the N body cars such as the Malibu, Alero and Grand AM.
The brakes in the Impala are huge (Police grade) thus they better disipate excess heat.
If it makes you feel better, then there are always aftermarket brake alternative such as cross drilled rotors....but more expensive than the OEM stuff.
It was no problem at the dealer as far as replacement of the rotors. After complaining about a shudder when braking they checked the brakes out found the rotors were warped and replaced them both without my asking.
I should have made them replace them but I can't trust my dealership, that's why I do all the work I can on my own car.
I installed new good rotors and cermaic pads on my Imapala. I also make sure I torque my wheels as the manual says to ensure proper operation/lifetime of my components.
By the way, the rotors on my Impala 2000 LS are the exact same rotors on the 98 Camaro.
later
If so, it would be greatly appreciated if they could be posted here. Thanks.
It's like the service consultant says at my incredibly busy Chevy service dept, "That's the way they're made." It must be something they teach them at service school, as another forum poster mentioned his service guy saying practically the same thing. (Was it RR?)
The following day, I brought my "other car" to the "other car" dealer's service dept. It was an entirely different experience. It was probably due to the fact that there were so few cars there being serviced. I'd say maybe 10-15% of the number of vehicles at the Chevy dealer. Plus, the oil change was $5 cheaper! They must have been using that cheap foreign oil.
My Acura dealer experience was good but not outstanding. Actually my Chevy dealer is alot quicker and better than my Acura dealer ever was. Lots of Legends, CL's and Integras awaiting for service...
Maybe I should try a different Chevy dealer's service dept. They're just so nice at Courtesy. Competence may more important, but I like being treated well. It's a pleasant change. They're moving locations, so I think I'll give 'em a few weeks to settle in at the new place, and then try 'em again. I'm sure it'll be a better experience.
As a side note: That Integra is one cheap car. That may be why you saw so many at your dealer's service dept. It's sold as a low level Honda in Japan. I always wondered why it wasn't a Honda here, and the Prelude, which is a very good sport coupe, wasn't sold as an Acura. Apparently, it doesn't matter what country a car company's HQ is located. They ALL make stupid marketing, design, and manufacturing decisions.
The RSX is a very reasonably priced little hotty. If it was available a few months ago, we would probably have chosen that over the CL, and gone for more luxury in our sedan with the savings.
I'm curious to see what sport coupe Chevy will be replacing the Camaro with. Do you have any inside info?
I have been looking for info on that TSB myself to see what the resolution is...
Take care.
RR
I had them look at the roof trim strips because they were starting to lift fairly severely at the back and were pulling up the window molding. The tech pulled one of them off completely, then realized what he had done and tried to stick it back on. What a MESS! Of course they've already ordered the replacement part.
After I picked up the car I was speaking to my sales guy. He basically invoked the "that's the way they're made" line when I pointed out the untouched roof strip that was sticking up at the end. He said "the solution to that is Benz" (you need to buy a $120,000 car to get the level of fit and finish that doesn't include lifting roof strips). I'm now not sure what to do with the "untouched" strip. After seeing what they did to the other one, I'm tempted just to leave it be since I'm now worried how the new one will look, particularly since it has to be paint-matched.
Anyone that's had them replaced - do they look as good as the factory installed ones (before they started lifting)?
Thanks!
Brad
"That's how they're made".
Maybe that should be their advertising slogan!
http://home.hawaii.rr.com/impala/
As for the "Benz" and "That's how they're made" comments, that's skirting the obvious issue.
As Dr. Demming would invoke - that's a process control issue, irregardless of vehicle line.
My service manager doesn't tell me "That's how they are made"...he takes charge of the problem, apologizes and gets it fixed.
That salesman implying that you should buy a MB to get a quality car is the most absurd and stupid comment ever heard. I hope his manager catches him one day saying that to his clients.
If you don't believe in the product you sell, get the heck out of the store. He should be selling toothpaste and soap not cars.
Those comments are the dealer's reflection on how they handle customer issues and complaints..too bad.
Fortunately the service manager is working with me to get it fixed.
Remember, I do have an "ace in the hole" at this dealership. My brother-in-law is the parts manager ;-) I hope that's not the only reason I get good service!
1)I have the middle two tail-lights out even though the car only has about 24,000 miles on it. The back-up lights work fine though. The passenger side-marker light is also out. No big deal if it's only the bulbs but that seems like an early burn-out time.
2)The rearview mirror is loose/flimsy feeling--maybe the previous owner damaged it.
3)The radio has weak signal reception. I think this may be caused by the rear-window antenne since it sounds fine with cass or CD.
4)The heated leather seats are great, but not in August when it's 88 degrees outside! I discovered that the switch is real easy to hit by mistake, so be careful.
5)The car was used and only had one key-fob-remote so I bought a second one. The dealer's service guys programmed it and I drove home. The next day I discovered the original fob did'nt work. After reading the owner's manual I reprogrammed both fobs myself and now they both work. So I guess if you get a new fob-remote you will have to reprogram your old one at the time you program the new one.
6)After reading the posts here I will definitly get better tires. The ones it came with make alittle too much noise and they "cry" if I take a turn even alittle fast.
Otherwise, I think the car is terrific so far and is beautiful too!
Enjoy your new ride!
I'll let everyone know how they hold in place this time around.
Brad
I'm especially fond of the rocket engine flame tip taillights of old. Cool with a capital "oo".
This loose feeling is apparent when going over bumps and ruff roads. Some say tie rods, but I'm going to check things out.
Thanks again
wwnf
in the past 10 months and now service manager
tells me GM is aware of this problem and it
is welds and where cradle is hooked to the
body of the car mine sounds like glass being ground up, it makes this sound when going over bumps and sitting still you can not hear
this with windows up roll windows down pull
into a car wash while it quite just sit there
turn steering wheel and listen if you hear this sound it can not be fixed at this time says GM
lma1@hci.net I have lawer looking into this
While you're there, you might want to have them look at the period key on your PC's keyboard.
repair. The wipers froze in the center of the windshield as I was driving the
expressway on Sunday. It will be extremely interesting what the solution is.
They did provide a rental but - it stinks- like cigarette smoke- I WANT MY
CAR BACK. Hope it's resolved today and I'll post what the problem was.
getting ready to buy the car back and also have
put it in writing that they have no fix at this
time you know this could be dangerous thing since
the engine cradle supports all of drive train
and front suspension last cradle in 8 17 2001
couldn't duplicate the problem- he didn't put it on the ticket that was duplicated the AM I brought it in. Said they checked all connections and "Reseated" the module, ran the wipers for 30 minutes and couldn't get it to duplicate problem. They had it for 4 days because I also complained about loose molding on the passenger side- part ordered over a month ago- part was now in. I got a song and dance each day about paint needing to dry, next day it was just back from body shop and wipers being looked at- etc.
Then when I called to pick it up they told me the molding strip was not done because they didn't have the "clips " to mount it. That was what I noticed and told them when they ordered the part to begin with- missing clips and loose molding. I'm headed to Chevy customer service # in the AM. This was completely unacceptable and involved out and out lies- car is out for painting the molding- drying- just back from body shop. I'm pretty ticked!
The rental I had was a mini-van. Nice folks at Enterprise but I don't want a mini-van- I want my 7 month old Impala with properly functioning wipers.
if yours our staying down since you had them replaced and how long it took
them to replace them. I would leave them alone, but am afraid that it could
effect the windshield trim eventually. Since these are pre-painted strips, I
assume they do no painting to replace them?
21,500 miles and no trouble with my Impala. Only the roof strip and amp.
Mechanically, it is sound.
I had one strip replaced a few weeks ago. The strip DOES come pre-painted - there is a long list of part numbers for these strips, left and right for each colour. I have the other strip in my garage waiting to be installed, but I wanted to see how the dealer did on the first one.
I would recommend that you NOT let the dealer's service department replace the strips for several reasons:
1) When they remove the old strip, they have to clean all the adhesive out of the "groove". When they did this to my car they put some slight swirl marks into my paint (grrrr).
2) They didn't do the greatest job at fitting the replacement strip into the "groove". I admit I'm probably the only person that will ever notice that the replacement doesn't follow a perfect line, but I'm pretty anal about my car.
3) It's starting to lift again after only a few weeks.
If you take it to the dealer, I would INSIST that the body shop do the work, NOT the service department. And if you're as anal as I am, tell them in advance.
I'm trying to decide how I'm going to approach this. I might try to fix them myself using Nathan's approach, or I might talk to the dealer and have the body shop work on it, or I might take it to a different body shop. I'll let everyone know what I decide and how it all works out.
Other than this small problem, "Hooloo" has been fantastic. I just had her in for the 15k km oil change.
I would have assumed that a job like that would automatically be done by the body shop and not the service shop?? They did not have the body shop do it. Maybe that is part of the reason that yours is pulling up again already.
Hope they get it resolved for you.
RE: Roof Strips.
Don't waste your precious time getting them replaced by the dealer. Driveby your nearest Safelite or other autoglass shop and ask them to put a nice bead of URETHANE under the ends of the roofstrip that have already come off. Let it cure for 24 hours and PRESTO!!!.
Urethane is the adhesive used to glue down car windshields, so you can be assured that this will be the strongest bonding stuff available to fix the roof strips.
Urethane of the Beta rapid cure type should also yield excellent results.
Clean and very efficient job.
I am outta here...
See everyone back at the "2000 Impala" club at Yahoo...
Your knowledge is greatly missed around here. I can only assume there was some "politics" that drove you away. That's too bad - for us.
Take care.
Brad
mention I got a clue about why it took 4 days to not finish it the first time when the manager mentioned they painted the panel green to match my car and then discovered the car is Navy Blue! In the meantime I pointed out some separation of the leather seat on the drivers side from the panel or clip that faces the drivers door. They are ordering a new seat cover and will have it installed at a special shop that does reapholstering.
Again- we'll call when the part is in. They did wash my car this time. NOT sure if I should be happy or not. Love my car but not loving the service yet.
I am on my 3rd set of rotors, the first 2 warped and were replaced, the rear brakes have squeaked from day one.
I had the "clicking" sound from the front end by 2500 miles, the dealer had the TSB that stated they need to reinforce the welds due to the sub-frame flexing. That issue is fixed.
I have experienced hesitation upon acceleration when pulling out into traffic, it feels like the car is getting too much fuel and choking itself. This last about 5 to 7 seconds, then the car surges forward. It is an intermit ant problem that has occurred about 15 times, but CAN'T BE DUPLICATED BY SERVICE"
I have also experienced a transmission "buck", The car jumps when it shifts almost like it was stuck in gear and suddenly let loose to shift. When I turn the car off, it is almost like the tyranny resets it self, and the problem is no more.
Most recently I had my steering shaft replaced, the dealer covered it under "Good Will Terms Warranty". They told me that Chevy is aware of an issue with the shaft and are working on a fix. The symptoms was a clunking sound from the front end almost like something was loose and rolling around. I was able to feel it in the steering as well as hear it. If you experience this bring it in and get it fixed. Like I said, I am out of warranty, but the dealer I went to replaced it FREE.
The final straw that has really made me mad was an ignition issue. There were time that I would put the key in the ignition to start the car, but the key wouldn't turn. I pulled it out, tried again and invariably it would work again. If you have experienced this, tell you dealer immediately, and have them make a record of it. I learned the hard way to the tune of $600. The ignition switch and cylinder needed to be replaced. I have written to Chevy Customer Care. My feeling is the ignition have no bearing on the number of miles you put on a vehicle, and mine is 17 months new.
I would love to hear if anyone else has experienced the ignition, transmission, or acceleration issues.
KarenS
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