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Toyota Camry Battery Questions
I have a 95 camry and I need to replace the battery ground cable. Anyone know where I can find an aftermarket cable so I don't have to pay $40 from Toyota?
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It was driven about 19,000 miles in its first year as a corporate leased vehicle in Colorado, then less than 5,000 miles a year in the Arizona desert, which is where I live as well. I’m sure I’m going to put on more that 5k per year!
I’m thinking I want to change the oil and do a flush/change on the transmission and cooling system. Spark plugs and air filter replacement, too. There’s no problems with the car right now, but I want to “baseline” it and have a starting point for maintenance. Also, I don’t know that a 30k service was done, or how faithfully the other periodic maintenances were done, and I want this one to last me! Is there anything else I should consider doing now?
I’ve got the moon roof. Is there some setting that stops it at full close? Or do you just have to learn to play with the stupid thing?!? I’m afraid of going through a car wash and getting rained on because I can’t tell if it’s slightly lifted!
What’s the truth about getting and giving jumpstarts? This car is a bit more computerized than my previous vehicle, and I’m concerned about blowing something expensive.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Ed
1) Positive on Live car
2) Positive on Dead car
3) Negative on Live car
4) Ground on Dead car
For those not familiar with Grounding, here's how it goes. First off, if you have a dead battery, do NOT attach the negative jumper cable to the negative battery terminal. If the battery's contents have crystalized for whatever reason, an explosion will occur. Instead, attach the negative battery cable to an area of exposed metal near the engine--I always use the upper radiator support near the headlight bracket. I've never had difficulty jump starting a car like this--even on a BMW, no electronic glitches whatsoever. Carry a pair of safety glasses just in case; trust me, you don't want battery acid in your eyes. Hope this helps! And enjoy that Camry--sounds like you got a nice one!
Edge
Can anyone please HELP! Thanks :mad:
bringbrought for service). The Good News is I found and located the problem MYSELF with die-ing batteries. As I suspected there was a electrical draw. [Quick lesson - by disconnecting the negative battery cable from the negative battery terminal, then hooking up a 12 volt bulb from the negative battery cable to the negative battery terminal with all switches and all electric turned off including the dome light, if there is a bright light, then there is a constant draw from the battery (which there was). If there is only a very dim light, it is normal.] I removed fuses one at a time checking the light bulb each time to see if it dimmed. When I took out the final fuse (isn't always the last one) the bulb went very dim which is good, almost no draw. That fuse was for the power seats. In checking the seats my son noticed that the power seat button was out of place and jammed in the "on" position! Apparently someone either jammed something between the door and seat or something caused it to break, but there is was - the switch "on" drawing down the battery, even when the key is out! The Bad News, Atlantic Toyota, Sunrise Highway, Amityville Long Island NEVER checked the electrical system as they wrote up in the service order and insisted that I buy a replacement battery from them. DO NOT BUY FROM OR BRING YOUR CAR FOR SERVICE TO ATLANTIC TOYOTA ON LONG ISLAND! By the way I will be following up with the Toyota corporate office, newspapers, TV stations, etc. about my "friends" at this despicable dealer.bringbrought for service). The Good News is I found and located the problem MYSELF with die-ing batteries. As I suspected there was a electrical draw. [Quick lesson to check for a battery draining power (aka "parasidic draw") when the car is off - by disconnecting the negative battery cable from the negative battery terminal, then hooking up a 12 volt bulb between the disconnected negative battery cable and the negative battery terminal with all switches and all electric turned off including the dome light, if there the test bulb is bright, then there is a constant draw from the battery (which there was). If there is only a very dim light, it is normal.] I removed fuses one at a time checking the light bulb each time to see if it dimmed. When I took out the final fuse (isn't always the last one) the test bulb went very dim which is good, almost no draw. That fuse was for the power seats. In checking the seats my son noticed that the power seat button was out of place and jammed in the "on" position! Apparently someone either jammed something between the door and seat or something caused it to break, but there is was - the switch "on" drawing down the battery, even when the key is out! The Bad News, Atlantic Toyota, Sunrise Highway, Amityville Long Island NEVER checked the electrical system or this quick check as they wrote up in the service order and insisted that I buy a replacement battery from them. DO NOT BUY FROM OR BRING YOUR CAR FOR SERVICE TO ATLANTIC TOYOTA :mad: ON LONG ISLAND! By the way I will be following up with the Toyota corporate office, newspapers, TV stations, etc. about my "friends" at this despicable dealer.I don't trust dealers myself and use an independent shop for repair work beyond my expertise (other than warranty or recall work).
It shows the wisdom of the adage to shop for dealer service as well as the deal itself when you purchase a new (or used) car.
removing fuses one by one would have caused the current flow displayed on the meter to make a step-change down when you disconnected the fuse from the circuit with the constant high draw.
i'm surprised the technician did not do this sleuthing... maybe you can teach them how to do it.
i think you should post your story in the Electrical problems that are driving you crazy forum, as other people could benefit from your experience.
I suspect the Internet sales have had an effect on their profit margins and they'll do ANYTHING to get a few extra bucks however they can.
I would like to spread the word on something important. When I wrote a negative comment on Corporate Toyota Customer Feedback card (which is sent out randomly to service customers), I was (inadvertently) told that this was now on my dealership record (!), that it had cost the service advisor $200 and I had been identified as a "chronic complainer!". This was told to me by the dealerships "Customer Service" Representative. So how does Toyota Corporate expect to get honest feedback if you are going to be retaliated against and treated poorly by giving honest constructive feedback? Be careful!
BTW - I have notified Corporate Toyota Hdqts about this and they were concerned about it as well as the dealership not checking out my electrical problem.
I posted as you suggested.
Regards
If you disconnect the battery while the engine is running the alternator output might go SKY HIGH! In any case it will generate high enough voltage spikes that it could very well DESTROY every electronic module, ECU in the car.
The battery is an integral component of the voltage regulating aspect of system, without the battery as a "huge" current sink for over-voltages, voltages above its current charge level, many of the electronic systems will fail in very short order.
I just read your most recent post. I'm the person who asked the slude question a couple of days ago and you replied that you were thinking of getting a 2002 Solara for 12,500. (it had 46,000 miles on it).
Just curious. . . is what you're looking at a convertible or a coupe? And, is the POS the same one you are talking about?
I'm trying to determine if the price they are quoting me is a good price.
Thanks! AMTN
That's why a thorough test drive is important.
I am in Chicagoland, it is cold..but this does not seem to effect my Jeep...I am just sick of the inline 4.0 Liter gas hog,,,but let me tell you this is one tough engine...Totally trustworthy and solid...if fact I almost wish something would go wrong with it so I'll have more an excuse to get rid of it...Last time mechanic replaced the starter, he said those 4.0's are bullet proof, just thirsty.
Edge
This morning the car wouldn't start. i had it jumped and took it to a mechanic. they said the battery, alternator and starter were operating normally. The only suggestion they had is that there might be an electrical short somewhere in the system of the car. But they said it looked ok without doing any deep investigation.
I go to leave at lunch and the car wont start again. Go any suggestions on what might be wrong?
presuming that it starts right up when it does, i would tend to think it might be your ignition switch. did you try inserting the key a few times, maybe wiggling it? worth a try.
also - look in your manual and see if a fuse and/or relay is dedicated to the starter function. verify these are well seated in their respective positions in the fuse/relay panel(s). maybe a loose fuse / relay, or a bad relay...
Last Friday, the car would not start. She opened the hood and found that the battery had a softball sized amount of corrosion around the battery terminals. She tried to scrape the corrosion away and the battery cables fell apart. She had the vehicle towed to the Toyota dealer where she bought the car. They replaced the battery and battery cables under warranty. The service advisor had no explanations as to why this happened.
Does anyone know why this could have happened, if it's a common problem and how to prevent it?
My wife and I look really bad now. My mother-in-law was a die hard GM car owner (even with the large number of troubles they had) and never owned an import before. Because she is in her 60's, we wanted her to have the most reliable car she could afford. Everything we read said Toyota Camry's were A1. So, we recommended it. My wife and I were stunned when she called and asked us to take her to pick up her Camry after the car died. If possible, please help or offer any advice. Thanks and God bless.
*Take M.I.L.'s car to one of the larger autoparts retailers such as Kragen, Pep Boys, Autozone, Advance Auto, etc. and request an alternator load test to verify its performance. If one of the diodes has "blown" (which will still allow partial charging) this test will pick it up. This is done without removing the alternator and the stores don't charge for this diagnistic. If a fault is found, back to the dealership - the alternator should still be a warrantable item at this stage of the car's life. I'd like to think the dealership already performed this test, but I've learned through experience not to assume anything where dealership service department personnel are concerned. Most are competent, but some were promoted from trash can emptying/sweeping and shuttle van driver way too soon.
Thank you for any suggestion
It sounds like you have a bad alternator. I'd check that for charging rate, which could explain why you had to replace the first battery.
If not that, have Autozone try to read the car's computer for a trouble code.
Perhaps the ECM lost its' microcode load in the power disruption somehow.
Who can or what does reprogram a computer? Diagnostic yea. Reprogram, no.
My Q started running fast at idle once. It happened after I couldn't get it started. It cranked but didnt have spark then it finally started and ran at 1200 RPMs steady. I shut it off and looked in the code book for fast idle it said remove Ox sensor connector while running then reconnect. It dropped to normal 700 RPM. Maybe I reprogramed my computer and didnt know it.
It sounds more technical.
I'm also having the same problem after changinh my battery. Can you please tell me what re-programming needs to be done or contact information about your mechanic so I can call him and check with him. I'll appreciate your help.
Thanks