Toyota Camry Battery Questions

chadrappchadrapp Member Posts: 35
I have a 95 camry and I need to replace the battery ground cable. Anyone know where I can find an aftermarket cable so I don't have to pay $40 from Toyota?
«1

Comments

  • ednerdednerd Member Posts: 3
    I have just purchased a 97 Camry LE (4 cyl, auto) with only 41k miles. I checked CarFax Edmunds before buying, and I’m certain I got a clean car for good price. This is the best car I’ve ever owned, so I’ve got some questions, if someone can give me a push in the right direction.

    It was driven about 19,000 miles in its first year as a corporate leased vehicle in Colorado, then less than 5,000 miles a year in the Arizona desert, which is where I live as well. I’m sure I’m going to put on more that 5k per year!

    I’m thinking I want to change the oil and do a flush/change on the transmission and cooling system. Spark plugs and air filter replacement, too. There’s no problems with the car right now, but I want to “baseline” it and have a starting point for maintenance. Also, I don’t know that a 30k service was done, or how faithfully the other periodic maintenances were done, and I want this one to last me! Is there anything else I should consider doing now?

    I’ve got the moon roof. Is there some setting that stops it at full close? Or do you just have to learn to play with the stupid thing?!? I’m afraid of going through a car wash and getting rained on because I can’t tell if it’s slightly lifted!

    What’s the truth about getting and giving jumpstarts? This car is a bit more computerized than my previous vehicle, and I’m concerned about blowing something expensive.

    Any advice is greatly appreciated.

    Ed
  • themoon77themoon77 Member Posts: 102
    I have always been told to install jumper cables in this fashion:
    1) Positive on Live car
    2) Positive on Dead car
    3) Negative on Live car
    4) Ground on Dead car

    For those not familiar with Grounding, here's how it goes. First off, if you have a dead battery, do NOT attach the negative jumper cable to the negative battery terminal. If the battery's contents have crystalized for whatever reason, an explosion will occur. Instead, attach the negative battery cable to an area of exposed metal near the engine--I always use the upper radiator support near the headlight bracket. I've never had difficulty jump starting a car like this--even on a BMW, no electronic glitches whatsoever. Carry a pair of safety glasses just in case; trust me, you don't want battery acid in your eyes. Hope this helps! And enjoy that Camry--sounds like you got a nice one!

    Edge
  • akajam999akajam999 Member Posts: 1
    hey, can you tell me if you ever found out how to flush/change on your transmission fluid?
  • clssiguyclssiguy Member Posts: 1
    I can't seem to get the battery to install without running out of thread on the tiedown. There must be another place to attach this threaded rod? Anyone else have this problem?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    As my wife says, "We need more information!" Model year, replacement or original battery, etc.?
  • mrsacksmrsacks Member Posts: 6
    The battery on my 2003 4 cyl Camry with 15k mi. died on Thursday. Charged the battery, drove it around Thurs nite. Friday morning battery was dead. Installed brand new battery on Saturday and this morning (Sunday) the NEW battery is dead. Nothing works - checked and no lights (courtesy, trunk, etc.) lights left on.
    Can anyone please HELP! Thanks :mad:
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Batteries, especially new ones, don't just "die". Either you have a circuit short somewhere draining the battery charge or something's not right with the car's charging system. The most immediate suspect in case it's the latter is a bum alternator, though a loose belt could be the culprit, too. If your car's still under its bumper-to-bumper warranty or if you purchased an extended warranty, your first stop should be to your dealer.
  • mrsacksmrsacks Member Posts: 6
    Thanks - I intially suspected it might be an electrical system problem, but figured with the orig battery being almost 3 yrs old, it might have gone bad. But when the new one died within 24 hours, well it's more serious than the battery. The altenator light did not go on, the lights don't dim under load and low rpms and the belt is tight. It's still under the bumper to bumber so I'll drop it off at the dealer tomorrow - hopefully they'll track down the problem the first time around. Thanks again.
  • haefrhaefr Member Posts: 600
    Y'know, another thought just ocurred to me. Within the last six months I had to replace the battery in our old reliable '89 Toyota pickup. Got one from WalMart, brought it home, installed it, turned the key, and NOTHIN'! Not so much as a "click". It had lost its charge from sitting too long on the store aisle display rack. Once I pulled my car around and jumped it, I got the truck started, but it was not happy at being awakened from its too long slumber unless I kept my foot on the accelrator pedal to increase the idle speed. The point is that if whoever installed or sold you your new battery put it on a fast charger briefly, that would've been sufficient for several starts, but it wouldn't have been a full charge by any means. It's possible, as in the case of our truck, that the vehicle has to be driven a good fifty miles or so for the new battery to come up to full charge. We haven't had a lick of trouble starting that old truck since (cranks strong and fires fast) nor have I had to resort to any throttle "tricks" or re-adjust the original idle speed to keep it running at idle.
  • mrsacksmrsacks Member Posts: 6
    Well you can count me among the "I HATE TOYOTA" and their dealers club!!! After 37years of owning Toyotas (first was a new '69 Corona) I've had it with them. Batteries kep die-ing on my '03 Camry XLE with 14 K miles and the dealer says there is nothing wrong with the electrical system, meanwhile the 3rd battery in one week is now dead! And oh by the way, "since you didn't buy the replacement battery from us we are going to charge you for the diagnostic time spent on the car even though it is under warranty", Huh !?!?! When I (loudly) insist that there is no way I'm paying for diagnostic check, service rep blurts out "you're a complainer. You complained about service when you filled out the Toyota Corp Customer Service card in December 2004!" He tells me that Toyota headquarters sent back my comments to the dealer and it is now on file!!!! (I said that I thought recommending new PCV valve after one year and 6K miles was sneaky since the owner's manual did not call for it and that the dealer's customer service rep did not return my calls.) So hey did any of you know Toyota Corp is doing this AND it would be held against you!. By the way I use the dealer - my car's oil/filer is changed by them every 3-4 months (even though I only drive about 6 K year! at the same dealer I bought it from...) My neighbor who services Audi / Porches advised me that there is definitely an electrical system problem such as Parasidic draw or short circuit which he has tested for. Now it is a question of tracking it down. I am in the process of contacting the Regional Toyota Service office, but don't hold out much hope. Keep you all posted. Needless to say the reputation that Toyota dealers are getting are well deserved! ! !. :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • mrsacksmrsacks Member Posts: 6
    Its me again. OK I no longer hate Toyotas :) ...but I DO HATE AMITYVILLE TOYOTA :mad: , Long Island, NY (the dealer I bought my Camry from and bring brought for service). The Good News is I found and located the problem MYSELF with die-ing batteries. As I suspected there was a electrical draw. [Quick lesson - by disconnecting the negative battery cable from the negative battery terminal, then hooking up a 12 volt bulb from the negative battery cable to the negative battery terminal with all switches and all electric turned off including the dome light, if there is a bright light, then there is a constant draw from the battery (which there was). If there is only a very dim light, it is normal.] I removed fuses one at a time checking the light bulb each time to see if it dimmed. When I took out the final fuse (isn't always the last one) the bulb went very dim which is good, almost no draw. That fuse was for the power seats. In checking the seats my son noticed that the power seat button was out of place and jammed in the "on" position! Apparently someone either jammed something between the door and seat or something caused it to break, but there is was - the switch "on" drawing down the battery, even when the key is out! The Bad News, Atlantic Toyota, Sunrise Highway, Amityville Long Island NEVER checked the electrical system as they wrote up in the service order and insisted that I buy a replacement battery from them. DO NOT BUY FROM OR BRING YOUR CAR FOR SERVICE TO ATLANTIC TOYOTA ON LONG ISLAND! By the way I will be following up with the Toyota corporate office, newspapers, TV stations, etc. about my "friends" at this despicable dealer.
  • mrsacksmrsacks Member Posts: 6
    Its me again. OK I no longer hate Toyotas :) ...but I DO HATE AMITYVILLE TOYOTA :mad: , Long Island, NY (the dealer I bought my Camry from and bring brought for service). The Good News is I found and located the problem MYSELF with die-ing batteries. As I suspected there was a electrical draw. [Quick lesson to check for a battery draining power (aka "parasidic draw") when the car is off - by disconnecting the negative battery cable from the negative battery terminal, then hooking up a 12 volt bulb between the disconnected negative battery cable and the negative battery terminal with all switches and all electric turned off including the dome light, if there the test bulb is bright, then there is a constant draw from the battery (which there was). If there is only a very dim light, it is normal.] I removed fuses one at a time checking the light bulb each time to see if it dimmed. When I took out the final fuse (isn't always the last one) the test bulb went very dim which is good, almost no draw. That fuse was for the power seats. In checking the seats my son noticed that the power seat button was out of place and jammed in the "on" position! Apparently someone either jammed something between the door and seat or something caused it to break, but there is was - the switch "on" drawing down the battery, even when the key is out! The Bad News, Atlantic Toyota, Sunrise Highway, Amityville Long Island NEVER checked the electrical system or this quick check as they wrote up in the service order and insisted that I buy a replacement battery from them. DO NOT BUY FROM OR BRING YOUR CAR FOR SERVICE TO ATLANTIC TOYOTA :mad: ON LONG ISLAND! By the way I will be following up with the Toyota corporate office, newspapers, TV stations, etc. about my "friends" at this despicable dealer.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Good for you!

    I don't trust dealers myself and use an independent shop for repair work beyond my expertise (other than warranty or recall work).

    It shows the wisdom of the adage to shop for dealer service as well as the deal itself when you purchase a new (or used) car.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    good sleuthing, and description on how to attack the problem methodically. a slightly more expensive diagnostic tool: if you had a cheap $15-$20 "multi-meter", (available at Home Depot and Lowes), you could have used the ammeter / current function to display current flow scaled in milli-amps to amps. one of these devices is a good thing to have to check batteries, wall-outlets, electrical continuity etc, if you know how to use one.

    removing fuses one by one would have caused the current flow displayed on the meter to make a step-change down when you disconnected the fuse from the circuit with the constant high draw.

    i'm surprised the technician did not do this sleuthing... maybe you can teach them how to do it. ;)

    i think you should post your story in the Electrical problems that are driving you crazy forum, as other people could benefit from your experience.
  • mrsacks1mrsacks1 Member Posts: 11
    You're right, the penny-wise dollar foolish adage certainly applies. However in my case at the time I purchased the car the dealership had an owner who only owned this dealership and it had a good reputation. A week or so after I bought my car, the dealership was bought out by one of the "chain" dealerships that seems to be taking over where they own Honda, Lexus, Chevrolet, Hundai showrooms across Long Island. This is creating a new (read lower than low) mentality among these dealerships, where there is less competition and senior management knows and controls the price points.
    I suspect the Internet sales have had an effect on their profit margins and they'll do ANYTHING to get a few extra bucks however they can.
    I would like to spread the word on something important. When I wrote a negative comment on Corporate Toyota Customer Feedback card (which is sent out randomly to service customers), I was (inadvertently) told that this was now on my dealership record (!), that it had cost the service advisor $200 and I had been identified as a "chronic complainer!". This was told to me by the dealerships "Customer Service" Representative. So how does Toyota Corporate expect to get honest feedback if you are going to be retaliated against and treated poorly by giving honest constructive feedback? Be careful!
    BTW - I have notified Corporate Toyota Hdqts about this and they were concerned about it as well as the dealership not checking out my electrical problem.
  • mrsacks1mrsacks1 Member Posts: 11
    User 777I was not aware of the Electical Problems forum. Thanks for the heads up.
    I posted as you suggested.
    Regards
  • sxyrican80sxyrican80 Member Posts: 6
    This problem sounds like you have an alternator problem. To know if your alternator is good, start the car up and let run for about 2 minutes, then disconnect the positive cable from the battery. If the car dies out(turns off), then your alternator is no good. You will have to replace it !!! ;)
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    No! NOT! NEVER!

    If you disconnect the battery while the engine is running the alternator output might go SKY HIGH! In any case it will generate high enough voltage spikes that it could very well DESTROY every electronic module, ECU in the car.

    The battery is an integral component of the voltage regulating aspect of system, without the battery as a "huge" current sink for over-voltages, voltages above its current charge level, many of the electronic systems will fail in very short order.
  • sean3sean3 Member Posts: 158
    OK I drove the 2002 Camry at the Toyo dealer. what a POS..I thought I was driving a 90's Ford..It rattled so bad interior wise, from the Pillars, dash, seatbelts, doors...Then drove another 2002 same trim with slightly more miles...Same exact car exept the Color...It was rattle free...what gives? I thought Toyota was pretty uniform in there manufacturing process..the dealer had no explanation, acting so suprised...the quiet one was listed at $$325 less but has 4,000 more miles....this made me rethink the whole Camry thing... Any Advice?? Thanks Sean
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    well, you don't know how they were driven, nor how they were cared for...
  • amtnamtn Member Posts: 4
    Sean-
    I just read your most recent post. I'm the person who asked the slude question a couple of days ago and you replied that you were thinking of getting a 2002 Solara for 12,500. (it had 46,000 miles on it).

    Just curious. . . is what you're looking at a convertible or a coupe? And, is the POS the same one you are talking about?

    I'm trying to determine if the price they are quoting me is a good price.

    Thanks! AMTN
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    Like user777 said, you don't know how the car was treated. Still, the 2002 model, the first year of the current design, did seem to generate more squeak and rattle complaints.

    That's why a thorough test drive is important.
  • sean3sean3 Member Posts: 158
    What kind of maintnance do you have to do to the INTERIOR to be rattle free? My old '1994 Jeep Cherokee has Zero rattles, and it has been abused, :) trust me...I don't beleive one can do much in the way of maintnance of the Interior trim...obviously Camry had more problems than Normal with interior Fit and finish....JD gave the 2002 Camry a 2/5 in the Squeak and rattle department,,,then it seemed to climb back up 2003 and on...I know generally One of Toyotas worst cars is still probably better than any of Ford's best, but come on my '94 Cherokee is quieter inside. I also do not appreciate Toyota's "WE do no wrong" arrogant attitude...I was in my friends '96 Nissan Sentra today and heard zero rattles or squeaks...

    I am in Chicagoland, it is cold..but this does not seem to effect my Jeep...I am just sick of the inline 4.0 Liter gas hog,,,but let me tell you this is one tough engine...Totally trustworthy and solid...if fact I almost wish something would go wrong with it so I'll have more an excuse to get rid of it...Last time mechanic replaced the starter, he said those 4.0's are bullet proof, just thirsty. :(...I know Toyota sells a gazillion camry's, but so did Ford with the Taurus. and they weren't particularly well crafted...I read somewhere the 1986 Taurus was a turning point in automotive design...sweeping up every award possible..even had Toyota shakin in its booties...I know my Mom had a 1993 Ford Taurus and it was one good looking sedan for it's time...the best generation Taurus in my opinion...1996 and on were ugly bloated wastes of metal..I deffinetly see a decline in Toyota's quality, Asians have become so cheap, asking premiums for sub-par products....Maybe I will look at Malibu? the Asian advantage is slowly losing it's truth..I had an old 1988 Accord in high school, which was a fine car, that I rarely had the oil changed or anything..It never let me down..My XXX wife has a 2001 Accord that reminds me more of a grand am, more than my 1989 Acccord. many more problems with hers, and major ones to...Major oil leaks, Tranny problems...seems GM's quality is improving to Toyota levels, maybe by 2008??or so,,,by then Toyota will probably have more market share than GM, Toyota is becoming like GM, knowing they have the major NA market, and quality will go further down...IMO ...thanks...:) Sean
  • sean3sean3 Member Posts: 158
    No this is just your typical Camry LE...I am in Aurora,,Cchicago) and the lowest dealer price I have found is around $13,000 2002 LE w/46K...by the way, I financed with Eloans, it is kind os cool..they send you a blank check up to your approved amount, and you fill it out to the dealer, cool part is it is valid for 45 days after approval..it automatically expires. I was approved for $15,000 for 48mos @ 7.74%...although I wonder if i would have requested more I would have likely got a few thousand more...?, But I will leave it alone, Keep my payments down..Thanks Sean
  • themoon77themoon77 Member Posts: 102
    I also had an experience with a 2002 Camry, this one with only 35,000 miles. It rattled quite a bit up front, not so bad that the radio at a moderate volume wouldn't drown it out. I did not buy the car, but the rattles were not the deciding factor. By the way...did you receive the good ol' "insinuating profanity" email from edmunds for using your acronym? I sure did, at one time. They deleted my post, too.

    Edge
  • harppuaharppua Member Posts: 1
    I have a '97 camry, 4 cyl. 179K.

    This morning the car wouldn't start. i had it jumped and took it to a mechanic. they said the battery, alternator and starter were operating normally. The only suggestion they had is that there might be an electrical short somewhere in the system of the car. But they said it looked ok without doing any deep investigation.
    I go to leave at lunch and the car wont start again. Go any suggestions on what might be wrong?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    A window switch stuck, sticking, in the "up" position??
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    get the car started again and bring it to an autozone or other parts supply shop which advertises free battery / alternator testing (including load testing).

    presuming that it starts right up when it does, i would tend to think it might be your ignition switch. did you try inserting the key a few times, maybe wiggling it? worth a try.

    also - look in your manual and see if a fuse and/or relay is dedicated to the starter function. verify these are well seated in their respective positions in the fuse/relay panel(s). maybe a loose fuse / relay, or a bad relay...
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    Take your car to any auto electric or dealer to see if the alternator is putting out amperage to charge the battery and run the car at the same time. It sounds like the alternator maybe going south. :shades:
  • bildowbildow Member Posts: 100
    Take your car to any good auto electric repair I have found that in some cases the alternator has weak schrader diodes this has happened to me a couple of times. Another thing if your alternator is good it takes 2-3 hours of driving to bring a battery up to a full charge. Get a small battery charger and leave it on over night charging your battery this also works well. :D
  • 1dee1dee Member Posts: 1
    Thanks so much for posting your information. My mother is having the same problem with her 03 Camry. Took it to the dealership, battery checked out, they wanted to charge $35 to service the battery (clean it). Told them no thanks and asked them to check everything that was under warranty. Everything checked out, went across the street to advance got a battery brush and the spray (about $6.00) everything was fine until today. So I checked out the website and found your msg, she's having my brother check it out. Thanks again :)
  • scottrodscottrod Member Posts: 1
    My mother-in-law has a 2004 Toyota Camry LE V-6 (loaded) with approximately 24,000 miles. The car has never been in an accident and has been serviced regularly according to the owner's manual. She lives in North Dallas, TX and purchased the extended powertrain warranty protection plan from Toyota.

    Last Friday, the car would not start. She opened the hood and found that the battery had a softball sized amount of corrosion around the battery terminals. She tried to scrape the corrosion away and the battery cables fell apart. She had the vehicle towed to the Toyota dealer where she bought the car. They replaced the battery and battery cables under warranty. The service advisor had no explanations as to why this happened.

    Does anyone know why this could have happened, if it's a common problem and how to prevent it?

    My wife and I look really bad now. My mother-in-law was a die hard GM car owner (even with the large number of troubles they had) and never owned an import before. Because she is in her 60's, we wanted her to have the most reliable car she could afford. Everything we read said Toyota Camry's were A1. So, we recommended it. My wife and I were stunned when she called and asked us to take her to pick up her Camry after the car died. If possible, please help or offer any advice. Thanks and God bless.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    What you described is not a Toyota problem. It's a general problem when conditions are right (wrong?). The crud was acidic sulfation - which is why the battery cable wiring was 3/4 non-conductive toast. Assuming the charging system is in good condition*, my best guess is too many short trips with A/C in Polar Ice Cap mode resulting in a chronic undercharge state - a condition no lead-acid battery can long survive. An undertightend battery cable (rare at the factory, but it can happen) can also contribute. If everything turns out OK, check for the presence of the chemically treated red and green felt washers beneath the batter cables. These help retard the generation of sulfate at the terminals. If absent, go to any autoparts store or auto section of a major retailer and pick up a set. Use the proper size metric open-end wrench to loosen and tighten the clamping nuts. Pliers are more apt to round off the nuts' corners and result in a loose connection upon re-installation. The red felt washer goes on the "+" terminal and the green one goes on the "-" terminal after removing the cables. ALWAYS remove the "-" cable first and ALWAYS replace that same "-" cable last to avoid generating a spark that could ignite a hydrogen gas/air pocket inside the battery.

    *Take M.I.L.'s car to one of the larger autoparts retailers such as Kragen, Pep Boys, Autozone, Advance Auto, etc. and request an alternator load test to verify its performance. If one of the diodes has "blown" (which will still allow partial charging) this test will pick it up. This is done without removing the alternator and the stores don't charge for this diagnistic. If a fault is found, back to the dealership - the alternator should still be a warrantable item at this stage of the car's life. I'd like to think the dealership already performed this test, but I've learned through experience not to assume anything where dealership service department personnel are concerned. Most are competent, but some were promoted from trash can emptying/sweeping and shuttle van driver way too soon.
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    He's right that it's a general problem, not specific to Toyota. My US-built Camrys have batteries made by Johnson Controls, one of the large battery suppliers in the US. (I believe Johnson now makes the Sears DieHard batteries.)
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Member Posts: 1,134
    Yep - and K-mart and WalMart batteries, too. Many autoparts store name batteries are also made by Johnson Controls.
  • tmp888tmp888 Member Posts: 20
    Have you look at the "strategic supplier list" of Japanese and US automaker lately? They are almost identical. Explore's Firestone (BridgeStone) tires are not made by Ford. Speed control on Ford Vehicles were made by Texas Instrument (questioned in the fire investigation). Bottom line, keep your finger crossed to buy cars these days. I don't see much different in quality if all automaker buy parts from the same suppliers.
  • tripp7tripp7 Member Posts: 1
    The product you are looking for is called NCP-2 made by the NOCO Company. You can get it at Walmart or interstate battery- it comes in both washers and a spray on can- use both and you will never have this problem again.
  • leonchinleonchin Member Posts: 10
    japanese cars have been popular in many countries
  • dchen2003dchen2003 Member Posts: 34
    I have a 03 camry (4 cyl), and the battery is still stock. Is it time to change the battery? Because I am planing to have a road trip. What kind of battery should I get? How to determine the quality of a battery, just based on CCM, or there are other factors to consider? Is there any one know the specification of camry oem battery?

    Thank you for any suggestion
  • william31william31 Member Posts: 2
    I replaced the battery in my 2002 Camry and it will start but will not stay running. Autozone said the computer needed to remember itself (whatever that means). They said to drive it around for 10 to 15 minutes and keep my foot on gas when stopping to keep the car idling/running. I ran it for 30 minutes and when I got home and put it in park and took my foot off the gas and it died. What's up?
  • richplanckrichplanck Member Posts: 1
    same problem here any luck ,
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    That doesn't sound very likely. If it were true, no car in the world would run for 30 minutes after a battery replacement? NAH!

    It sounds like you have a bad alternator. I'd check that for charging rate, which could explain why you had to replace the first battery.

    If not that, have Autozone try to read the car's computer for a trouble code.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Assuming your 2002 is NOT DBW you likely need to clean the idle air bypass valve/channel.
  • william31william31 Member Posts: 2
    Yes, problems solved. I called my mechanic and told him the problem. He said that most Imports after the year 2000 have this problem. He took my car and hooked it up to whatever it is they hook it up to and reprogrammed the systems and after about 2 hrs. everything was fine. No problems whatsoever. My mechanic did not even charge me for this. A coworker of mine had the same problem with her Jeep and the dealership charged her $250 for the same procedure. Good luck.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    ????? :confuse:
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I was questioning the same thing....doesn't really make sense.

    Perhaps the ECM lost its' microcode load in the power disruption somehow.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    You mean like its RAM memory?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Right, doesn't make any sense that the memory could be lost.....but if the solution was reloading the computer...then something must have caused the coding to be lost.
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    Dont make sense.

    Who can or what does reprogram a computer? Diagnostic yea. Reprogram, no.

    My Q started running fast at idle once. It happened after I couldn't get it started. It cranked but didnt have spark then it finally started and ran at 1200 RPMs steady. I shut it off and looked in the code book for fast idle it said remove Ox sensor connector while running then reconnect. It dropped to normal 700 RPM. Maybe I reprogramed my computer and didnt know it.

    It sounds more technical.
  • 03camry03camry Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I'm also having the same problem after changinh my battery. Can you please tell me what re-programming needs to be done or contact information about your mechanic so I can call him and check with him. I'll appreciate your help.

    Thanks
Sign In or Register to comment.