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Toyota Camry Battery Questions



  • 1dee1dee Posts: 1
    Thanks so much for posting your information. My mother is having the same problem with her 03 Camry. Took it to the dealership, battery checked out, they wanted to charge $35 to service the battery (clean it). Told them no thanks and asked them to check everything that was under warranty. Everything checked out, went across the street to advance got a battery brush and the spray (about $6.00) everything was fine until today. So I checked out the website and found your msg, she's having my brother check it out. Thanks again :)
  • scottrodscottrod Posts: 1
    My mother-in-law has a 2004 Toyota Camry LE V-6 (loaded) with approximately 24,000 miles. The car has never been in an accident and has been serviced regularly according to the owner's manual. She lives in North Dallas, TX and purchased the extended powertrain warranty protection plan from Toyota.

    Last Friday, the car would not start. She opened the hood and found that the battery had a softball sized amount of corrosion around the battery terminals. She tried to scrape the corrosion away and the battery cables fell apart. She had the vehicle towed to the Toyota dealer where she bought the car. They replaced the battery and battery cables under warranty. The service advisor had no explanations as to why this happened.

    Does anyone know why this could have happened, if it's a common problem and how to prevent it?

    My wife and I look really bad now. My mother-in-law was a die hard GM car owner (even with the large number of troubles they had) and never owned an import before. Because she is in her 60's, we wanted her to have the most reliable car she could afford. Everything we read said Toyota Camry's were A1. So, we recommended it. My wife and I were stunned when she called and asked us to take her to pick up her Camry after the car died. If possible, please help or offer any advice. Thanks and God bless.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    What you described is not a Toyota problem. It's a general problem when conditions are right (wrong?). The crud was acidic sulfation - which is why the battery cable wiring was 3/4 non-conductive toast. Assuming the charging system is in good condition*, my best guess is too many short trips with A/C in Polar Ice Cap mode resulting in a chronic undercharge state - a condition no lead-acid battery can long survive. An undertightend battery cable (rare at the factory, but it can happen) can also contribute. If everything turns out OK, check for the presence of the chemically treated red and green felt washers beneath the batter cables. These help retard the generation of sulfate at the terminals. If absent, go to any autoparts store or auto section of a major retailer and pick up a set. Use the proper size metric open-end wrench to loosen and tighten the clamping nuts. Pliers are more apt to round off the nuts' corners and result in a loose connection upon re-installation. The red felt washer goes on the "+" terminal and the green one goes on the "-" terminal after removing the cables. ALWAYS remove the "-" cable first and ALWAYS replace that same "-" cable last to avoid generating a spark that could ignite a hydrogen gas/air pocket inside the battery.

    *Take M.I.L.'s car to one of the larger autoparts retailers such as Kragen, Pep Boys, Autozone, Advance Auto, etc. and request an alternator load test to verify its performance. If one of the diodes has "blown" (which will still allow partial charging) this test will pick it up. This is done without removing the alternator and the stores don't charge for this diagnistic. If a fault is found, back to the dealership - the alternator should still be a warrantable item at this stage of the car's life. I'd like to think the dealership already performed this test, but I've learned through experience not to assume anything where dealership service department personnel are concerned. Most are competent, but some were promoted from trash can emptying/sweeping and shuttle van driver way too soon.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    He's right that it's a general problem, not specific to Toyota. My US-built Camrys have batteries made by Johnson Controls, one of the large battery suppliers in the US. (I believe Johnson now makes the Sears DieHard batteries.)
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Yep - and K-mart and WalMart batteries, too. Many autoparts store name batteries are also made by Johnson Controls.
  • tmp888tmp888 Posts: 20
    Have you look at the "strategic supplier list" of Japanese and US automaker lately? They are almost identical. Explore's Firestone (BridgeStone) tires are not made by Ford. Speed control on Ford Vehicles were made by Texas Instrument (questioned in the fire investigation). Bottom line, keep your finger crossed to buy cars these days. I don't see much different in quality if all automaker buy parts from the same suppliers.
  • tripp7tripp7 Posts: 1
    The product you are looking for is called NCP-2 made by the NOCO Company. You can get it at Walmart or interstate battery- it comes in both washers and a spray on can- use both and you will never have this problem again.
  • leonchinleonchin Posts: 10
    japanese cars have been popular in many countries
  • I have a 03 camry (4 cyl), and the battery is still stock. Is it time to change the battery? Because I am planing to have a road trip. What kind of battery should I get? How to determine the quality of a battery, just based on CCM, or there are other factors to consider? Is there any one know the specification of camry oem battery?

    Thank you for any suggestion
  • william31william31 Posts: 2
    I replaced the battery in my 2002 Camry and it will start but will not stay running. Autozone said the computer needed to remember itself (whatever that means). They said to drive it around for 10 to 15 minutes and keep my foot on gas when stopping to keep the car idling/running. I ran it for 30 minutes and when I got home and put it in park and took my foot off the gas and it died. What's up?
  • same problem here any luck ,
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    That doesn't sound very likely. If it were true, no car in the world would run for 30 minutes after a battery replacement? NAH!

    It sounds like you have a bad alternator. I'd check that for charging rate, which could explain why you had to replace the first battery.

    If not that, have Autozone try to read the car's computer for a trouble code.

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  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Assuming your 2002 is NOT DBW you likely need to clean the idle air bypass valve/channel.
  • Yes, problems solved. I called my mechanic and told him the problem. He said that most Imports after the year 2000 have this problem. He took my car and hooked it up to whatever it is they hook it up to and reprogrammed the systems and after about 2 hrs. everything was fine. No problems whatsoever. My mechanic did not even charge me for this. A coworker of mine had the same problem with her Jeep and the dealership charged her $250 for the same procedure. Good luck.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    ????? :confuse:

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  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I was questioning the same thing....doesn't really make sense.

    Perhaps the ECM lost its' microcode load in the power disruption somehow.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    You mean like its RAM memory?

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  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Right, doesn't make any sense that the memory could be lost.....but if the solution was reloading the computer...then something must have caused the coding to be lost.
  • Dont make sense.

    Who can or what does reprogram a computer? Diagnostic yea. Reprogram, no.

    My Q started running fast at idle once. It happened after I couldn't get it started. It cranked but didnt have spark then it finally started and ran at 1200 RPMs steady. I shut it off and looked in the code book for fast idle it said remove Ox sensor connector while running then reconnect. It dropped to normal 700 RPM. Maybe I reprogramed my computer and didnt know it.

    It sounds more technical.
  • 03camry03camry Posts: 1
    I'm also having the same problem after changinh my battery. Can you please tell me what re-programming needs to be done or contact information about your mechanic so I can call him and check with him. I'll appreciate your help.

  • First of all let me say I don't feel so bad, my battery just died and i had it almost exactly 3 yrs.

    My question is about the battery terminal connectors and battery cable to the terminal connector. My terminal connector needs to be replaced, (Toyota's set up sucks btw). However, there is an additional small wire piggybacked onto the connector. I am not sure of the thickness, perhaps 1/4 inch or about as thick as a telephone line.

    I am wondering what this is for? It appears to run along the main positive battery cable and into a part of a wiring harness. Could it be for ground or some other reason? At one time the car had an alarm system, which I had uninstalled. Is it perhaps a leftover hot wire from a poor uninstall. Does it make sense the wire would coincide with the hot battery terminal plug wire?

    Any information would help.

  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    1/4" would probably be the alternator positive post output wire. It generally runs to the battery positive terminal at the starter solenoid or directly to the battery as above.
  • Thank you... I took it to a friend's shop and they replaced the terminals, but used the same OEM setup Toyota had, said it could / should not be changed.
  • crasecrase Posts: 7
    I just changed the original battery in my '02 Camry, and two problems occurred. The speedometer needle has swung all the way to the far right, and is no longer working, and the idle speed has dropped to almost nothing, making it hard to keep the car running. I understand from reading other posts the computer may need re-setting or re-programming. Is there any fix I can do from home, or does it need to go to my mechanic.
    Thanks for any help.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    Something's wrong, because the speedo needle won't relearn its original function. Also, the idle speed can drop, but not to the point of stalling. Was all power off when you changed the battery (lights, etc.) and did you remove the key from the ignition switch?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check to make sure you didn't blow a fuse, specifically these three:

    - 10 Amp IG2
    - 10 Amp Gauge 1
    - 10 Amp ECU-B
  • crasecrase Posts: 7
    The key was out of the ignition, but it's possible the headlight switch was on. I don't think the headlights can draw any power without the key being turned on first. The drivers door and the trunk lid were open, meaning the dome light and trunk light would have been drawing power when I hooked up the new battery, but the trunk light is out. The idle has returned to normal, but the speedo needle remains buried all the way over to the right, with no function at all.
    When I hooked up the new battery, I noticed something was drawing a little power, as I heard the light sound of electricity as the negative cable neared the negative post. The positive cable was hooked up first. I assume the power draw would have been the dome light, as the drivers door was open, and I have the dome light switch set so the dome light comes on when the door opens. I don't think my trunk light is working right now, the bulb probably needs changing.
    I talked to my mechanic, who hasn't heard of the speedo problem before. He said the idle speed needed to be relearned, as it's controlled by an idle motor.
    I'm going in for a 30K service later this week, my mechanic says the speedo problem is easy to diagnose.
    I'm wondering if its an electronic speedo or traditional cable actuated?
  • crasecrase Posts: 7
    I checked the three fuses, none of them were burned. I also checked Guage 2. I managed to drop a fuse under the battery tray in the process, but I substituted a spare fuse from the fuse case under the hood.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The speedometer is electronic.

    Sensors on the wheels and transmission.
  • crasecrase Posts: 7
    So, one or both of the sensors may be malfunctioning,, or the gauge itself is a goner. Maybe it's coincidental to changing the battery, and the malfunction isn't related to changing the battery at all.
    That would be quite a coincidence.
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