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Toyota Avalon Tires and Wheels
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Thanks for the tips and suggestions. I am printing your reply so I can follow up on it. The "shimmy" is a high frequence sidweway motion when I go above 65 mph and will last past 75 mph, then eases up somewhat after that.
I appreciate your insight and will let you know when something comes up.
These systems are phenomenal at finding balance problems.
I am aware of vibrations on Avalons fitted with the OEM Continental A/S Touring tires. The only fix is getting rid of the horrible Continentals.
When you feel the vibration, does the steering feel loose at center or have a "dead" spot between play? Try moving the steering wheel slightly left and then slightly right. Does it affect the vibration? Do you feel the vibration more when applying left force or right force? Does it feel "loose"? Is there slack? If so, this may indicate wear in the steering components.
If all else fails, the front-end ie. suspension, struts and steering needs to be checked by a Toyota dealer for wear or damage.
I've tried two or three and each ones does turn my tires brown (or a tan) after a few weeks. I do live at the end of about 3/4 miles of dirt road, but this isn't dust nor dirt, just that the rubber turns brown.
How does the Z stuff for tires work?
I have the standard black (steel?) wheels...don't think they're aluminum. I checked the torque over the weekend, and every one of the nuts was around 110 ft-lbs, whereas the manual specs 76. I eased them all off to 75 or so, but it didn't affect the vibration.
"When you feel the vibration, does the steering feel loose at center or have a "dead" spot between play? Try moving the steering wheel slightly left and then slightly right. Does it affect the vibration? Do you feel the vibration more when applying left force or right force? Does it feel "loose"? Is there slack? If so, this may indicate wear in the steering components."
No, the steering wheel feels resonsive through its range of motion. Vibration occurs while steering left, right or straight.
"If all else fails, the front-end ie. suspension, struts and steering needs to be checked by a Toyota dealer for wear or damage."
I took it to a dealer back in April for this and they said what vibration the tech felt was normal
Get back to me and I will have a reasonable answer of what it is.
For a global perspective on shimmy problems, the service manual has a reasonably but not thorough alogrithm. Start from the tires, then wheels, then rotors. See if any are out of balance or out of round. Some mechanics could care less. The struts, although not likely could be a contibuting factor with excessive mileage.
If you have ruled out all of the above, and it still shimmies, then you have an inner CV joint problem/axle out of round.
How do I know so much??? I have been contributing to this forum for years, and had the same problem with my 02 Avalon. Finally got it resolved, but had to rip off the front axles, which were factory defective. No more problem now.
Since then, still have the Avalon, but bought a BMW 325ci. A little different.
Let me know how it goes.
I had a 2000 Avalon with the same problem. In my case, I paid considerable money to repair the front end suspension. Then, when it happened again, I decided to buy a new 2005 Toyota.
I believe if you check Consumer Reports you'll find that front end suspension for year 2000 was cited as a problem for Toyota.
Man, I usually agree with you, but I have to take a slightly different edge on your post. I don't think it is a design problem at all. The parts, control arms, dampers, etc. are from the Toyota parts bin, with a little shuffling around. I think the problems more lie in the quality( I know other will have a cow!) of the parts used as OEM for Toyota. I think, frankly, some of them are inferior, and frankly, what works in a little Camry/Solara doesn't necessarily perform at the same standard on a heavier, longer Avalon.
Although I recently picked up a 2004 325ci, I still enjoy my Avalon at my workhorse, with many superior aftermarket parts, including TokicoHP struts, Falken Tires, PIAA 1500 driving and fog lights, PIAA wiper blades, XM stereo, Powerslot rotors, etc. While not a true sports machine, it has a fine balance of comfort and road handling capacity to make every day enjoyable.
Appreciate your valuable suggestions
If the tire is irreparable, AND the other tires don't have significant wear, then replace it with an identical tire, put the new tire on the rear wheel, the spare on the other rear wheel, the good previous front tire becomes the spare and the previous rears go up front.
If you have significant wear on the others you may as well replace all four. Get Bridgestone Turanza LS-H. You won't believe how quietly your Avalon will run.
I have actually two sets of summer tires. Long story. Short story, Have 15" Falkens Ziex 512 which were very inexpesive, handle excellently, but do have a constant tire noise issue. Not bad, but not super quiet either.
I have another set of Continental Contacts Eco something, 215/55 R 16". These seem to work a little better with the suspension improvements I made, but either seem to do a good job, as traction, both dry/wet, braking dry/wet, and handling. The 55 series are better at emergency manuevers. Both sizes are almost exactly the same revolutions per mile so no speedo error. I am sure the new tires you have and consumer reports have tested now are superior but the least seems not extensive or exhaustive. No Dunlops, Continentals, but too many Michelin tires all in one report. Not very balanced this time around in my opinion for CR.
Will need to put on the winter tires in a month or so up here.
The bottom line is that, over time, we as Avalon owners find these little cost cutting ideas as we drive the car. The high speed nose dive, the battery cable corrosion, etc... We post what we observe on these boards. We also post recommended or satisfactory "fixes" such as your many ideas on brakes and suspension modifications.
Despite the best efforts of these dollar-watchers, the engineers must generally prevail. Avalon has a great record for repair free driving. My '03 XL is now on the third battery... but at 61k miles is still an otherwise good reliable car. Enjoy...
My vibration ('99 Avalon XL) occurs right around 50 mph. The tire place did a road-force balance and said that would catch not only out-of-round tires, but any out-of-round or other problems with the wheels. Is that right?
"The struts, although not likely could be a contibuting factor with excessive mileage."
I've got 60,000 miles on 'em. Does that sound like it could be time for a new set? The previous owner had the strut MOUNTS replaced, but not the struts AFAIK. If it is time to replace, are Tokiko the way to go?
"If you have ruled out all of the above, and it still shimmies, then you have an inner CV joint problem/axle out of round."
After two sets of multiply-balanced new tires (Goodyear and now Michelins) and test-replacing both axles, the vibration is untouched :-(. Haven't looked seriously at the brakes/rotors yet, but the vibe happens regardless of whether brakes are applied or not, whether engine is in gear or not, and whether the cars' moving straight or turning.
Third battery??? You gotta be kidding me. Is the car parked outside in an ocean area??? Did you put those anti corrosion donuts on (green and red) and put lithium grease on the terminals??? I have 74K on my 02, make sure before winter that the terminals have grease or some kind of battery terminal sealer on it. The other thing I do in the spring, is take off the 6 cell covers, and with a small squirt bottle, fill up slowly and carefully with distilled H20 each cell.
i have not had one lick of problems, and if anyone gets problems, I definitely have terrible luck. Glad you are a contributor. You make this board fun and educational.
Hope the above helps, although I am sure you do all this already.
If you have 2 tires that match and are worn, and 2 more tires that are similar but are new (or have significantly more tread), always put the better tires on the rear.
The reason here is simple: safety.
If the front tires fail or slide, as in rain, you can correct with the steering wheel and/or accelerator. It's a problem, but you have a good chance at correcting it quickly. If the rear tire(s) fail, or slide, correction is far more difficult as you do not steer the rears. Essentially you have no control at the moment the problem occurs. And a moment is all you have.....
Racers usually call the problems "understeer" and "oversteer" for a racecar. The more dangerous is oversteer as the car will spin around before you can adjust to the problem. There is no time to react. Tire Rack has published articles on this on several occasions. It seems a little illogical but it's true. Also, mixing tires of different tread patterns, sizes, etc., on a passenger car adds a dimension that is truly unknown. For maximum safety, avoid this at all cost.
Obviously, this idea applies to any car, not just the Avalon. Drive safely, all....
My bad. I did not know this and thought the complete opposite. Lesson learned.
While driving to work today three lights on my dash showed up; My Check Engine, VSC and VSC Off lights all came on. My car is running fine and I do not think it is a major issue. Is there a way to reset the computer without having to go to the dealer? Also has anyone else expperienced this issue and have a possible remedy?
And by the way the VSC diagnostics are meanless when they illuminate along with an engine diagnostic indication.
I too have a 2000 XLS, this has happened to me and I checked everything under the hood I saw the master cylinder looked about a inch from the top. I topped it off and everything has been normal. (appox 3 months)
Anybody has the kind of problem? How to solve it? Any feedbacks will be appreciated.
Any help would be appreciated.
1. Check the tire balance.
2. Check the tire.
3. Check the wheel for run off.
4. Check the alignment.
5. Check the axle, inner CV joint.
You should have an answer. Do not expect them to do it, even under warranty. You will not get the answer that is right. I have been saying this on the forum througout the last 4 years.
I am NOT a car guy. I don't know anything about tires or wheels or what brands are good and what are not.
What I do know. I AM getting a '07 Touring Avalon. I do not particularly like the wheels. I do NOT want "bling bling" wheels. I am a 32 yr old father of two with a wife. I don't want wheels that look like I should have a diamond studded tooth with a gold necklace round my neck.
I DO want something that looks a bit ... sportier - dare I say a bit shinier or chromed than what is on the stock Touring.
I do NOT want to spend $5000+ on this. I just want to see options. Should I look at the dealership when I go to buy? Should I look at the local tire/wheel centers?
What is a resonable price for sportier wheels/tires? What is realistic?
I am thinking the chrome grill on the '07 might be an option I will look into. I want to "up" the elegant look without looking like the next up and comin' rapper!!!
Any ideas or suggestions?
Here's what I'm doing. I really like the Limited wheels, they're Toyota original equipment and they look classier. I just bought a complete set of brand new take offs (2006 Avalon Limited wheels and tires) on E-bay. Price was $538.99 + $142.01 for shipping. Total $681.00.
I like the finer lines and the look of multiple spokes. To me the XLS & XL rims just look too "chunky" and blah. I like to dress the car up a little without going crazy, and I'm not a fan of aftermarket wheels, I prefer original equipment.
Yes, the Limited rims are meant to be a notch up in terms of looks.
The rims-tires set up makes it easy to scuff the rims with a light curb touch. While the car rides smooth on a new highway, a little more rubber between the rims and the road would soften the ride better on rough roads. More rubber between the tire and rims would save some messed up rims. I am sure if the limited had raised whitewall lettering they would never get scuffed as the rims would be scraped. I have seen many raised tire lettering almost worn off and the rims were not touched. I guess everyone has a different view about everything.ange1
don't know much about the balancing system, but presume the rims you have allow for balancing, COSTCO just admits they can't do it.
seems like you are owed some $$$ back.
Ex: If you have mag wheels you can use outer rim weights of the proper type. My '03 XL has them. You can also use centerline weights inside the rim. Statements on the method of tire balancing at the factory vs. Costco are nonsense. My tire dealer balances tires to run 130 mph or more on a center hub machine. (In prior posts, several forum members have suggested a balance machine known as Road Force.) Do not waste your time going back to Costco unless it is to ask for a refund of the cost of the balance job that doesn't work.
The wobble could be many things but you need to balance the tires first. ( Actually, try checking the air pressure first, 32 to 34 max, cold, on a good tire gauge.) A good performance tire shop will find any serious problems or damage to the suspension. Others may have more ideas, and keep the forum posted as to what happens....