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Chrysler Sebring Warning Lights and Problem Codes

perrin75perrin75 Member Posts: 7
Hi Folks. My 1997 JX is having some problems and the mechanics can't seem to find it. In short the car first started showing problems by getting extremly loud. I thought it was in need of a new muffler, but the shop told me that wasn't the case.

Next, the car started missing while it was idling, and lately it will hesitate when I try to accelerate.

The check engine light continues to come on, but the error code indicates that it the problem is the oxygeon sensor. They've replaced that twice, but no luck.

Anyone have any thoughts?


  • BikerMikerBikerMiker Member Posts: 5
    I now have 120k on my 97 JX 6-cycliner which I've never had any problems with. I bought it as a program car with 15k back in 1998.

    My problems are:
    1) Oil light keeps coming on when I'm in Drive and at a stoplight and the engine idles low. If I rev the engine just a hair, the oil light goes off.

    2) Stupid Service Engine Soon light keeps coming on. I've had it checked by Chrysler 5 times and they can never find anything wrong and just reset it. I've discovered that it comes on shortly after I fill up the gas tank and shortly before I need to fill it. I'm somewhat used to seeing it coming on and going off but it's still kind of unsettling to see it.

    3) I've read that the timing belt needs to be replaced at 106k. Is this major work to replace? Also, mechanics have told me that I should just drive it until it falls off ... any assesments?

    ANY suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Oh, the stitching on the rag top is starting to come undone on the vinyl top in several places. Is there any method of putting some stitching in with somekind of tool? The car loan has been paid off and I just want to keep all costs down to a minimum.

    I really love this car. No problems except for the ones I've just mentioned. Who says Detroit can't build reliable cars?

  • lizzdmclizzdmc Member Posts: 1
    Recently, my Check Engine light came on my 1995 Sebring (90K miles currently) and it had an extremely erratic idle with coughing, jerking & sputtering. It turned out that oil had leaked into the spark plugs. The valve covers, plugs & wires were replaced, but the problem continued, and eventually the car would completely stall at idle, and sometimes even going on the highway.

    One of the automotive garages replaced both of my 02 sensors, but the problem continued. Another garage replaced the fuel filter & thermostat, but the problem continued. The dealership said that my computer (PCM) was bad, and it was replaced.

    The erratic idle problem continues to this day, which makes driving the car very difficult, albeit unsafe. 3 automotive garages (including the original dealership) have tried to find the problem, but to no avail. I have already spent over $2000 on this issue, and the car isn't worth more than $4000 to date.

    I might as well note, as an aside, that my transmission was completely rebuilt at 49K miles, along with the replacement of the water pump, the distributor cap & the timing belt - Not to mention that the brakes have been replaced 4+ times, and the front end was rebuilt through a recall.

  • bandit007bandit007 Member Posts: 1
    I would 1st like to start off by saying that i understand your pain. I own a 1999 Chrysler Sebring. This car its the worst purchase that i have ever made in my life. The car is unreliable, undependable, and most of all over-priced. the car was purchased brand spanking new. The 1st problem started with flat tires( the tires are extremely expensive $186.00). As with yourself the check engine light has been on for eternity the computer was replaced that was not the problem (and remains on until this very day). The brakes go extremely fast with my previous car that i owned the back brakes were replaced once, with the sebring 4 TIMES!!!( i owned my prev. car for 10 yrs.). The brakes make an irritating grinding noise even if they are new. The door handles pop off yes right into your hand. I am missing the passenger handle. The side panels on the outside as well slide right off. I should've known better when i 1st purchased the car b/c there was a black tar like substance on the side rail. Getting back to bigger and better problems, the driver seats has been welded together twice. I reclined it one day and it never sat up again. Car seats are supposed to be durable not this one. The car now stops on inclines, declines, and when your going below 15MPH. When the car stops you have to give it gas in order for it to start back up if not then it WILL not turnover. The car goes to hot if sit for 1 minute yes 1 minute. The car idles on HIGH if you you do decide to go above 35 MPH it sounds like a truck when your trying to do the speed limit. Just the other day the car started to making a whining noise only when you accelerate and if you try to go over 40MPH forget it. The car has a hard time picking up the speed that it used to have. Overall as you stated i will NEVER EVER NEVER BUY A CHRYSLER, DODGE OR JEEP PRODUCT. Its all the same. Nor will let my worst enemy buy this car let alone someone dear to me Purchase one. I am FINISHED. I HAVE LEARNED A VALUABLE LESSON AND SHALL GO ELSEWHERE FOR BUSINESS AND TO DO TONS OF RESEARCH BEFORE PURCHASING MY NEXT CAR. CHRYSLER SUCK NEED I SAY MORE
  • grnchrysler200grnchrysler200 Member Posts: 2
    i also have a 97 chrysler sebring and i have soo hard the same things, only i heard that if the timing belt isn't replaced it can melt valves and other bad things like that, my car just now started the oil light thing, this past week, but it only does it when i stop at a red light, when i press the gas it stops, and goes off, and the service engine soon light is caused by fumes getting to a sensor aroudn the gas tank, something about gas fumes, so i'm told by chrysler.
  • honeylickshoneylicks Member Posts: 1
    Thisis exactly what is happening to my car.I went to autozone to have them diagnose it and the code p0134 came up-they said it is an oxygen sensor which i will have to replace but how does an oxygen sensor affect the oil light???
  • stevensgal88stevensgal88 Member Posts: 6
    The Chrysler engineer is now involved with the dealer tech working on our car. They have had this car three weeks and as of friday they can not determine whats causing the engine light to come up, and the miss firing.


    They started with replacing o2 sensor, and the spark plugs. The engine light still comes on. Our's has only 3400 miles on it and the dealer has had it 5 times.
  • briabria Member Posts: 1
    Reply to your #2
    I had the same problem of the light coming on, and the dealer I took it to said it can come on because you don't tighten the gas cap tight enough after filling.
    Be sure you tighten it enough that you hear 3 clicks!
  • trac82trac82 Member Posts: 1
    Hi -

    My service engine light is on and I didn't get a manual with my car. Could someone please tell me how to reset this? Thanks! :mad:
  • kmckinleykmckinley Member Posts: 9
    At approximately 59,900 miles on the odometer the "service engine soon" idiot light came on in my '98 sebring jxi. The car is running fine. Does anyone know if this light is programmed to come on at the time of the 60K mile service? Seems a little coincidental so close to the major service time. :confuse:
  • kilofactorkilofactor Member Posts: 1
    I just recently replace my alternator belt (serpinten) (SP?) and 2 days, 350 miles later my 'Service Engine Soon' (SES) light pops up. The first thing I thought it could be was the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve or the Distributor. A known but not common problem with this model. Its $125 about for the value and $660 for the Distrbutor. (Average costs not counting in labor.) I have heard that some mechanics with flip this little switch that within a short time will cause the 'SES' light to pop up and the driver will return to the place where he/she last took the car to get it fixed. Who ever worked on it last flips the switch back and makes a cool $20 or more for their diagnostic check. JERKS! Now I don't know if this is true, (that some mechanics can/have/will whatever do this) but if there is such a switch where is it? Also could it be something other then the value and/or distrib. that would cause the 'SES' light?

    Thanks guys!
  • cfritzccfritzc Member Posts: 3
    My '95 Sebring is second-hand, purchased it Oct. 2003, and I loved it, had no problems with it up until March of this year. Then, it flat died while I was driving on the Interstate. Had it towed, the repair shop said it was a sensor (crank shaft, I think?) and replaced it.

    It seemed to do alright, up until about two months ago. Apparently, the water pump went bad, and it overheated, and I had it towed to the same shop again. While they were in there - they grumbled about how difficult the engine was to work on because it was configured oddly? - they changed the timing belt as well.

    After that, the car would sputter now and then, a hesitation that, if I took my foot off the gas pedal, seemed to correct itself. But it kept getting worse. I thought 'spark plugs and wires?' so made a note to get it in and get it fixed as soon as I could afford it. Unfortunately, the car beat me to the punch.

    The first time it died, it started to sputter again, but no easing of my foot from the gas did any good. It kept sputtering, coughing, losing power, until it finally strangled to death completely. I had it towed in, and the shop worked on it. That was a month ago. Just this evening, I went and picked up the car for the.. hmm.. 6th time? And even though they've now replaced another sensor, the distributor, the spark plugs and wires, and something else I can't recall, it did it again. Sputtered. Coughed. Wheezed. Chugged. Strangled. Died - a long slow painful death. It seems to happen after about 30 to 45 minutes of driving.

    I called the shop, and they're going to retrieve it and try the fuel pump next. I've invested far too much money into this thing already, but I have no other alternative or choice. I NEED my vehicle. The garage guys are still baffled, and if the fuel pump doesn't fix it, I think they're at the end of their rope as well.

    HELP?? Does this sound even vaguely familiar to anyone out there?
  • cfritzccfritzc Member Posts: 3
    ~~Additional Information~~

    Seeing this -

    <<#267 of 267 Re: PLEASE HELP ME I AM GOING CRAZY!!!! [mom3402] by tanglewood Jun 30, 2005 (8:52 am)
    Bookmark || E-mail Msg
    Replying to: mom3402 (May 27, 2005 10:38 pm)

    Sounds like a blocked catalytic converter. Over time the internals get loose and block the exhaust. >>

    - reminded me that the shop also worked on the catalytic converter. They also checked to see if a vapor lock had been created somehow, but it's the orginal gas cap and that seems not to be the case either.
    Still hopeful
  • blue02convblue02conv Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone else experienced their air bag light intermittently coming on? I have an 02 Sebring convertible and the light came on about 2 months before my warranty expired. By the time I drove to the dealer, the light went off and the mechanic said "it must have corrected itself." Now, 6 months later, and with an expired warranty, the light is back on and stays on constantly. Any guesses to what might be the cause?

    Also, in some earlier posts, someone was describing how their climate control fan doesn't work on the lower speeds - I have the same problem. I just ordered the part to fix it.

    This along with a few other small nuisances make me wonder how a 2002 with 22,000 miles will hold up in the long run.
  • ih8chryslerih8chrysler Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I kind of had this problem, but I think mine broke right away, and your's hasn't broken yet. There is a harness in the steering column that holds all of the wires like your horn, your airbag, etc. My harness completely dislocated and my airbag light was on constantly. (My horn didn't work either) I waited until inspection to get it fixed because it was only a month away. It cost me $200. Good Luck, I hope your dealer is better than mine.
  • bigdogvtbigdogvt Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring and a couple of weeks ago my service engine soon light came on. I went to Advance Auto and they scanned it for me and got a P1400 code to show up. I had a friend at Goodyear look that code up and it said it could be a Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor failure or Engine Control Module/Powertrain Control Module failure. The other day the light went off and has not come back on. Has anyone else had this to happen to them??
  • mj_biddermj_bidder Member Posts: 1
    Wow, don't tell me someone knows the answer to my problem:

    I have an '01 Sebring and the climate control fan has recently stopped working on all of the settings except at the highest speed.

    Can anyone tell me how to resolve this problem? What part will fix this and is it easy to install?

    Applogies if this has been answered before but I've just joined.

  • jenniferlynnjenniferlynn Member Posts: 2

    I have the same problems with my air bag light and the blower motor resistor. I got the fan thing fixed, cost about $65 for labor and the part.

    Does anyone know that if I am involved in an accident, will my air bag go off while the light is on? I am wondering if the airbag will function properly.

    Also I am worried about the air bag going off without reason while I am driving.

    Does anyone know more info about this condition?

    I have a 2001 Sebring Limited convertible.

    Don't you think Chrysler should do a recall or something since so many people are having the same problems?

    Any suggestions or comments can be sent to [email protected]

  • donc514donc514 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem in my '98 except at idle - then I replaced the plugs and wires myself - now it won't start at all - cranks with spark and fuel (on plugs when I removed them to check spark)

    My Problem used to go away after car was trying to idle for 5 or so minutes.

    No OBD codes - but it never starts I'm not sure if I'd even get any codes ??
    I have replaced the Fuel Filter - but still not starting.

    Did the fuel Pump fix yours?

    - DJC
  • cfritzccfritzc Member Posts: 3
    No, unfortunately they decided NOT to try the fuel pump - because of where it's located, is my understanding of their reasoning - and instead have ordered a new computer to try instead.

    Now, I'm a professional computer geek by trade, yet I haven't the foggiest idea to what extent the 'computer' on my car will change things, how much it costs, any of that.

    I've been told by other folks here where I live to suggest they check the fuel injector, and the torque sensor. What do I know? I can only surmise the shop has checked these things already, but will mention them regardless. Surely they would do everything -else- before resorting to fiddling with the computer, wouldn't they??

    Then again, someone else mentioned taking the car to another shop, but.. I'll have to get it back from the first shop in order to do that. It's been three weeks this time, if I'm thinking correctly.

    At the very least, when all's said and done, if they EVER get it up and running again, maybe it'll run for a good long while, what with a practically brand new engine.

  • wtimwtim Member Posts: 1
    I've had both of these problems on my '02 Sebring Limited cnvt. I had the climate control fan repaired a few months ago, at around 36K miles. Seems to me they had to replace the entire heater motor.

    I've had the air bag light problem twice.......and now it's doing it again, all within 14 months. The first time, they replaced a sensor for the driver's seat belt - the second time, they replaced the same sensor on the passenger's side. Each repair was approx. $300. I don't what they'll blame it on this time.

    I now have over 45K miles on the car.
  • james31james31 Member Posts: 1

    P0136 O2 SENSOR B1 S2 MALF

  • migashmigash Member Posts: 3
    i was leaving work and started to accelterate. then all of a sudden i herd a hallow thud sound (sounded like a pair of steel toed boots kicking something) fallowed by the sound of something like a whole lot of gravel in my wheel well (no i wasnt driveing on gravel).

    then my battery light turned on

    i drove home like normal with no "problems" save the light.

    my car still always starts, however after about 300-400 yards the light comes back on.

    other things wrong with the car... the rpm gage, and the mileage keep turring on and off randomly.

    someitmes they stay on for a week
    sometimes they turn on ater i "get going"
    sometimes they just dont turn on at all.

    other then that What could be up with my car?

    UPDATE: my car died

    while i was driving one by one things turnd off on my car.. till i couldnt even get the emergancy lights to work. its dead in the water now
  • thebige1thebige1 Member Posts: 1
    I am currently experiencing the same problem. The air bag light had come on and stayed on for two days in October of last year, but then went off. Just last week, it came on again and is now on continuously.

    I have an extended warranty and I am taking to the dealer later this week. I will post an update after my visit to the dealer.
  • viper6277viper6277 Member Posts: 2
    Please let us know if you have any info on this.... I just arted getting the same thing...
  • sebring_00sebring_00 Member Posts: 1
    hi, i experienced the same problem with my air bag light! It stayed on for about 2 mos. I took it to a trusted independant garage and the guy checked the air bag "fuse" which is located under the wood grained console it pops off. After he located and inspected the fuse it was blown, after he replaced it the light immediately went off!!!!! In conclusion replace your airbag fuse!!!!!!!
  • chrybabychrybaby Member Posts: 4
    Last night after dinner, my 2000 Sebring Convertible would start and run for about 2 seconds before dying. Today I was checking things out and noticed the red anti theft system dash light was not illuminated. I reset all the fuses in the underhood fuse box and, as if by divine intervention, the dash light started working and the car started and ran just fine. Is this common? Is my anti theft module beginning to croak?
  • hoyohoyo Member Posts: 1
    In my 95 sebring LXI, the abs light is on continously. I had it in the shop and they found a bad abs sensor on the left rear wheel in addition to a faulty abs computer.
    The sensor they changed, but the computer was too expensive so I got hold of a used one on ebay, supposedly tested and ok. The problem with the light is still there after the swap and I was wondering if anyone know if I have to reprogramme the computer? This computer is located inside the compartement below the glovebox.

  • kmnkmn Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem in my 01 convt. and it was the passengerside seatbelt reciever. That fixed the problem
  • thoward321thoward321 Member Posts: 4
    I was driving this morning, and the Battery Light comes on. I looked a the manual, but it gave no indication as to why. Any one out there with knowledge of this? Thanks!!
  • cory98cory98 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 sebring lx and it like looses power when driving for like 30 mins at a time. Mechanics have told me that it might be the catltic converter or the fuel filter. I dont know what it is. It will drive fine for 25 to 30 mins then it will loose power. Then you turn the car off and let it sit for 15 mins it wont do that, until like 25 to 30 mins have passed.
  • ncky1224ncky1224 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 Sebring Convertible JX and it just recently has started to stall out and not want to start. Sometimes I will be driving down the road it will be die, my steering in the car becomes tight and it dies. Then it will not start for a few minutes. After I let it sit for a while, it starts. I brought it to a local garage this past month and they replaced the Map sensor and said it was all fixed. However this morning I drove it to work and then I was leaving at lunch time and the car was dead???? I got it running and drove it back to the garage tonight. Any ideas anyone?
  • tprovolttprovolt Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1995 Sebring LXi which is in almost new condition and that I absolutely love. I only purchased it a week and a half ago. Just today it didn't want to start, and then while I was driving it just cut out (a few times). One thing that was different than every other day, was that yesterday I accidentally set off the alarm (which I didn't know was armed) by opening the passenger side door. Have you learned anything else about why your car might be cutting out? :confuse:
  • no1bobono1bobo Member Posts: 1
    Unfortunately, the airbag will not deploy in an accident. I had the same problem with my 2002 limited. I wonder if it is all tied together. My fan motor stopped blowing and they fixed that under warranty. The airbag light mysteriously came on and I took it after warranty to be repaired by the dealer.The dealer instructed me that as long as the light was on that the air bag would not deploy. They said it was one or both seat belt sensors. By the time I was ready to have the work done to fix it, it mysteriously went off. Now it is back on a year later.
  • ncky1224ncky1224 Member Posts: 2
    I haven't heard anything back about the car cutting out. The garage that I brought it to is now closed due to a electric fire there so I have been waiting on an appointment at the local Chrysler dealership. Just my luck they dont have an opening until the end of next week. :confuse:
  • 73chevyimpala73chevyimpala Member Posts: 16
    We bought a used 2001 Sebring LXi V-6 2.7 litre engine vehicle in January 2005. It had 59k miles then, it now has 86k miles. We have been very good about oil changes especially after I read in this forum about the possibility of sludge. We live in a hot climate(North Texas) and the oil gets changed every 3000-3500 miles.

    On Friday afternoon, the oil pressure light came on at idle for just a few seconds then disappeared, and then did at again a few minutes later. I got the car into a mechanic this morning(in our area almost all independent mechanics are closed on Saturday) and it was too good to be true. Almost immediately he noticed the oil pressure switch was leaking, so he replaced it. $61! I felt like I won the lottery as I drove away and then 20 minutes later it happened again, this time at every stop.

    I need to backup. At one point this mechanic said he would do a "manual oil pressure check" but after he noticed the switch leaking he didn't do it.

    I took the car right back and he said the oil pressure must really be low, but he doesn't have one part to do the oil pressure test. He says he will get that one part, call me, we can do the oil pressure test, if it's really low, we can try heavier oil, if that doesn't help we'll probably have to replace the oil pump and that repair is a $600-700 job.

    My questions are as follows: Are we spinning our wheels with this oil pressure test, and even after that, will replacing the oil pump solve the problem? I don't know much about cars, but I've never heard of an oil pump being replaced. Finally, is all of this related to the "sludge engine problem" that I read about last year?

  • derekw420derekw420 Member Posts: 4
    Im having the exact same problem. Ive replaced numerous parts (timing belt, distrubtor and cap, fuel pump, wires and plugs) and nothing fixed it. Ive checked the air intake and filters to make sure it is recieving the proper amount of airflow. Im thinking of taking it to the muffler shop and getting a flow test done and then cleaning or replacing injectors. Please let me know if you find out what is wrong with yours.
  • derekw420derekw420 Member Posts: 4
    I finally got my problem figured out. There was a bracket that holds the ERG valve. A pin slipped out of the braket and made my car run like crap. It was about $150 for the part and well worth it. The mechanic told me that it is very hard to change and thats why most mechanics overlook that part and go on to somethig else. All I know is that my car is purring like a kitten now.
  • ladybug22_98ladybug22_98 Member Posts: 15
    Can you tell me exactly what was wrong with your car I'm trying to figure out is that what i need?
  • derekw420derekw420 Member Posts: 4
    When I would come to a stop, my RPMs would drop and sometimes my car would die. I could start it right back up but I would have to give it some gas or it would immediately die again. My check engine light came on and when I checked the code, it was reading a "fuel air mixture problem". The missing ERG pin was making my car run too rich resulting in a carbon build-up inside of the engine and injectors, so I had to clean that out also. It felt like my timing was off or some of my spark plugs werent working but that wasnt the case. Also, if I was driving at 5mph or more, it didnt seem to have any problems. It was only when I would stop or start my car without holding the gas peddle down a bit. I also took my car to a muffler shop because I thought I may have had an exhaust problem but it checked out fine. It ran even worse when my AC was on. Let me know if this helped you.
  • ladybug22_98ladybug22_98 Member Posts: 15
    Thank you it helped me alot. The problem I am having is that I could be on the freeway and all of sudden my car would just lose gas even if I push the pedal. I would have to sit on the side of the road for about 30 min. Sometimes it would die, sometimes it wouldn't. However, if after sitting for about 30 min it would drive fine again for about 2 more weeks then happen again. The mechanic says they cant do anything until my light comes on. It finally came on after 2 months, now I keep getting different diagnosis.
  • derekw420derekw420 Member Posts: 4
    I had that same problem with a GMC Sonoma and it ended up being a carbon build-up in the engine. Your ERG value could cause that. I had to wait 15 min before attempting to start it and if I didnt wait that long, then I would have to wait another 15 min from the time of the last attempt. Mine would die or start stuttering when I would get on the entrance ramp for the freeway. Sometimes it would die and start itself back up when I was coasting. Everyone kept telling me that it was the computer but I had it replaced and the problem was still there. Good luck
  • sebringkeithsebringkeith Member Posts: 6
    I am kind of having that same issue however I am not sure..........

    I NEED HELP! I have a 1996 Chrysler Sebring Convertible JXI 2.5L

    I am driving down the freeway at 65 mph, and my engine fails on me, like I am running out of gas! I pull over and the engine idles VERY rough, eventually dies. I CAN restart, however when I give it gas it "Sounds" like I am flooding the engine......I can let it sit 30 minutes, then it starts up again, and I can go about 1/2 mile down the road......I get it towed back to my house, let it sit overnight, and the next day it will start and run JUST fine off the freeway around town going 35 to 45 mph.....but get it back on the freeway, and the SAME THING.....engine looses power, cant go! I have had the TPS replaced, several vaccuum hose connectors that were worn/tattered. Some tell me this is a catalytic converter, others say its a fuel mixture thing, but I am seeking advice of others that have had this problem! EMAIL ME: [email protected]

    Keith McAndrew
    Dallas, Texas
  • ladybug22_98ladybug22_98 Member Posts: 15
    Man I am having the EXACT same problems with my car as we speak. I have the same year, make and model that you have now. I took it to get checked out they told me that I need to replace my O2 Sensors. I did that. Then it moved to replacing the air and fuel filters and a fuel injector service. I did that. The problem is still going on so now they tell me that it is my fuel pump. So I am going to get that replaced today. Hopefully this will help the problem. Also, they were saying that I need to get a tune -up done also. I don't think it has anything to do with a tune-up though. The only that sucks is I don't know when it is going to fail on me on the road. I hope this helps. Also if you really find out what is wrong. PLEASE let me know your stats.
  • sebring9776sebring9776 Member Posts: 10
    :shades: what i was told that both 02 sensors have to be replaced. now if ur cata is plugged which mine is on bottom of car u have t have both cata's replaced to get ur car to run right. Both cata's have to be in good shape for the 02 sensors to work properly.
  • sebringkeithsebringkeith Member Posts: 6

    My mechanic and I are going TODAY to take it out on the freeway so that HE can experience the problem first hand! He is stronly leaning towards a vaccuum hose/regulator problem, but since the DAMN car wont throw and service codes for him and his computer, we are just going to tkae it out and break it down ON PURPOSE! I will update ANY new information, and I appreciate ANYONE else's input, and I will relay ANY infor I get!

    Keith :)
  • ladybug22_98ladybug22_98 Member Posts: 15
    Good luck! Let me know what they find. I will do the same. :)
  • ladybug22_98ladybug22_98 Member Posts: 15
    Did you happen to find out what was the status on your car? :)
  • sebringkeithsebringkeith Member Posts: 6

    I have a mechanic looking at my car now, he says it is a mix between the fuel pump pressure not reaching optimal pressure, and the distributor! I am drawing up estimates too to see how much this will cost! I thought I would share that with you! What did you find out if anything about your car stalling on the freeway?! Anyone looked at it yet? what did they tell you????
  • ladybug22_98ladybug22_98 Member Posts: 15
    Thank you I will be waiting for your info. No one really knows what is wrong with my car. I have tried to called Chrysler and even talked to dealership personally. They say its one thing then I do it. However, I am still having problems with this car. Let me know what they tell you Please. :(
  • adara00adara00 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 lxi and the check engine light keeps coming on. It's a stable light and I add the highet level gas and on occassion add the fuel additive into the tank. Why does this keep happening? Also, I started noticing yesterday, when I start to speed up, the car feels as if it's catching or jumping a little bit. Any ideas on either of these things will help me alot! The car has 62k miles on it now and has just been given a lube. thanks so much!
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