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Chrysler Sebring Warning Lights and Problem Codes

Hi Folks. My 1997 JX is having some problems and the mechanics can't seem to find it. In short the car first started showing problems by getting extremly loud. I thought it was in need of a new muffler, but the shop told me that wasn't the case.

Next, the car started missing while it was idling, and lately it will hesitate when I try to accelerate.

The check engine light continues to come on, but the error code indicates that it the problem is the oxygeon sensor. They've replaced that twice, but no luck.

Anyone have any thoughts?


  • I now have 120k on my 97 JX 6-cycliner which I've never had any problems with. I bought it as a program car with 15k back in 1998.

    My problems are:
    1) Oil light keeps coming on when I'm in Drive and at a stoplight and the engine idles low. If I rev the engine just a hair, the oil light goes off.

    2) Stupid Service Engine Soon light keeps coming on. I've had it checked by Chrysler 5 times and they can never find anything wrong and just reset it. I've discovered that it comes on shortly after I fill up the gas tank and shortly before I need to fill it. I'm somewhat used to seeing it coming on and going off but it's still kind of unsettling to see it.

    3) I've read that the timing belt needs to be replaced at 106k. Is this major work to replace? Also, mechanics have told me that I should just drive it until it falls off ... any assesments?

    ANY suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Oh, the stitching on the rag top is starting to come undone on the vinyl top in several places. Is there any method of putting some stitching in with somekind of tool? The car loan has been paid off and I just want to keep all costs down to a minimum.

    I really love this car. No problems except for the ones I've just mentioned. Who says Detroit can't build reliable cars?

  • Recently, my Check Engine light came on my 1995 Sebring (90K miles currently) and it had an extremely erratic idle with coughing, jerking & sputtering. It turned out that oil had leaked into the spark plugs. The valve covers, plugs & wires were replaced, but the problem continued, and eventually the car would completely stall at idle, and sometimes even going on the highway.

    One of the automotive garages replaced both of my 02 sensors, but the problem continued. Another garage replaced the fuel filter & thermostat, but the problem continued. The dealership said that my computer (PCM) was bad, and it was replaced.

    The erratic idle problem continues to this day, which makes driving the car very difficult, albeit unsafe. 3 automotive garages (including the original dealership) have tried to find the problem, but to no avail. I have already spent over $2000 on this issue, and the car isn't worth more than $4000 to date.

    I might as well note, as an aside, that my transmission was completely rebuilt at 49K miles, along with the replacement of the water pump, the distributor cap & the timing belt - Not to mention that the brakes have been replaced 4+ times, and the front end was rebuilt through a recall.

  • I would 1st like to start off by saying that i understand your pain. I own a 1999 Chrysler Sebring. This car its the worst purchase that i have ever made in my life. The car is unreliable, undependable, and most of all over-priced. the car was purchased brand spanking new. The 1st problem started with flat tires( the tires are extremely expensive $186.00). As with yourself the check engine light has been on for eternity the computer was replaced that was not the problem (and remains on until this very day). The brakes go extremely fast with my previous car that i owned the back brakes were replaced once, with the sebring 4 TIMES!!!( i owned my prev. car for 10 yrs.). The brakes make an irritating grinding noise even if they are new. The door handles pop off yes right into your hand. I am missing the passenger handle. The side panels on the outside as well slide right off. I should've known better when i 1st purchased the car b/c there was a black tar like substance on the side rail. Getting back to bigger and better problems, the driver seats has been welded together twice. I reclined it one day and it never sat up again. Car seats are supposed to be durable not this one. The car now stops on inclines, declines, and when your going below 15MPH. When the car stops you have to give it gas in order for it to start back up if not then it WILL not turnover. The car goes to hot if sit for 1 minute yes 1 minute. The car idles on HIGH if you you do decide to go above 35 MPH it sounds like a truck when your trying to do the speed limit. Just the other day the car started to making a whining noise only when you accelerate and if you try to go over 40MPH forget it. The car has a hard time picking up the speed that it used to have. Overall as you stated i will NEVER EVER NEVER BUY A CHRYSLER, DODGE OR JEEP PRODUCT. Its all the same. Nor will let my worst enemy buy this car let alone someone dear to me Purchase one. I am FINISHED. I HAVE LEARNED A VALUABLE LESSON AND SHALL GO ELSEWHERE FOR BUSINESS AND TO DO TONS OF RESEARCH BEFORE PURCHASING MY NEXT CAR. CHRYSLER SUCK NEED I SAY MORE
  • i also have a 97 chrysler sebring and i have soo hard the same things, only i heard that if the timing belt isn't replaced it can melt valves and other bad things like that, my car just now started the oil light thing, this past week, but it only does it when i stop at a red light, when i press the gas it stops, and goes off, and the service engine soon light is caused by fumes getting to a sensor aroudn the gas tank, something about gas fumes, so i'm told by chrysler.
  • Thisis exactly what is happening to my car.I went to autozone to have them diagnose it and the code p0134 came up-they said it is an oxygen sensor which i will have to replace but how does an oxygen sensor affect the oil light???
  • The Chrysler engineer is now involved with the dealer tech working on our car. They have had this car three weeks and as of friday they can not determine whats causing the engine light to come up, and the miss firing.


    They started with replacing o2 sensor, and the spark plugs. The engine light still comes on. Our's has only 3400 miles on it and the dealer has had it 5 times.
  • briabria Posts: 1
    Reply to your #2
    I had the same problem of the light coming on, and the dealer I took it to said it can come on because you don't tighten the gas cap tight enough after filling.
    Be sure you tighten it enough that you hear 3 clicks!
  • trac82trac82 Posts: 1
    Hi -

    My service engine light is on and I didn't get a manual with my car. Could someone please tell me how to reset this? Thanks! :mad:
  • kmckinleykmckinley Posts: 9
    At approximately 59,900 miles on the odometer the "service engine soon" idiot light came on in my '98 sebring jxi. The car is running fine. Does anyone know if this light is programmed to come on at the time of the 60K mile service? Seems a little coincidental so close to the major service time. :confuse:
  • I just recently replace my alternator belt (serpinten) (SP?) and 2 days, 350 miles later my 'Service Engine Soon' (SES) light pops up. The first thing I thought it could be was the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve or the Distributor. A known but not common problem with this model. Its $125 about for the value and $660 for the Distrbutor. (Average costs not counting in labor.) I have heard that some mechanics with flip this little switch that within a short time will cause the 'SES' light to pop up and the driver will return to the place where he/she last took the car to get it fixed. Who ever worked on it last flips the switch back and makes a cool $20 or more for their diagnostic check. JERKS! Now I don't know if this is true, (that some mechanics can/have/will whatever do this) but if there is such a switch where is it? Also could it be something other then the value and/or distrib. that would cause the 'SES' light?

    Thanks guys!
  • cfritzccfritzc Posts: 3
    My '95 Sebring is second-hand, purchased it Oct. 2003, and I loved it, had no problems with it up until March of this year. Then, it flat died while I was driving on the Interstate. Had it towed, the repair shop said it was a sensor (crank shaft, I think?) and replaced it.

    It seemed to do alright, up until about two months ago. Apparently, the water pump went bad, and it overheated, and I had it towed to the same shop again. While they were in there - they grumbled about how difficult the engine was to work on because it was configured oddly? - they changed the timing belt as well.

    After that, the car would sputter now and then, a hesitation that, if I took my foot off the gas pedal, seemed to correct itself. But it kept getting worse. I thought 'spark plugs and wires?' so made a note to get it in and get it fixed as soon as I could afford it. Unfortunately, the car beat me to the punch.

    The first time it died, it started to sputter again, but no easing of my foot from the gas did any good. It kept sputtering, coughing, losing power, until it finally strangled to death completely. I had it towed in, and the shop worked on it. That was a month ago. Just this evening, I went and picked up the car for the.. hmm.. 6th time? And even though they've now replaced another sensor, the distributor, the spark plugs and wires, and something else I can't recall, it did it again. Sputtered. Coughed. Wheezed. Chugged. Strangled. Died - a long slow painful death. It seems to happen after about 30 to 45 minutes of driving.

    I called the shop, and they're going to retrieve it and try the fuel pump next. I've invested far too much money into this thing already, but I have no other alternative or choice. I NEED my vehicle. The garage guys are still baffled, and if the fuel pump doesn't fix it, I think they're at the end of their rope as well.

    HELP?? Does this sound even vaguely familiar to anyone out there?
  • cfritzccfritzc Posts: 3
    ~~Additional Information~~

    Seeing this -

    <<#267 of 267 Re: PLEASE HELP ME I AM GOING CRAZY!!!! [mom3402] by tanglewood Jun 30, 2005 (8:52 am)
    Bookmark || E-mail Msg
    Replying to: mom3402 (May 27, 2005 10:38 pm)

    Sounds like a blocked catalytic converter. Over time the internals get loose and block the exhaust. >>

    - reminded me that the shop also worked on the catalytic converter. They also checked to see if a vapor lock had been created somehow, but it's the orginal gas cap and that seems not to be the case either.
    Still hopeful
  • Has anyone else experienced their air bag light intermittently coming on? I have an 02 Sebring convertible and the light came on about 2 months before my warranty expired. By the time I drove to the dealer, the light went off and the mechanic said "it must have corrected itself." Now, 6 months later, and with an expired warranty, the light is back on and stays on constantly. Any guesses to what might be the cause?

    Also, in some earlier posts, someone was describing how their climate control fan doesn't work on the lower speeds - I have the same problem. I just ordered the part to fix it.

    This along with a few other small nuisances make me wonder how a 2002 with 22,000 miles will hold up in the long run.
  • Hi, I kind of had this problem, but I think mine broke right away, and your's hasn't broken yet. There is a harness in the steering column that holds all of the wires like your horn, your airbag, etc. My harness completely dislocated and my airbag light was on constantly. (My horn didn't work either) I waited until inspection to get it fixed because it was only a month away. It cost me $200. Good Luck, I hope your dealer is better than mine.
  • bigdogvtbigdogvt Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring and a couple of weeks ago my service engine soon light came on. I went to Advance Auto and they scanned it for me and got a P1400 code to show up. I had a friend at Goodyear look that code up and it said it could be a Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor failure or Engine Control Module/Powertrain Control Module failure. The other day the light went off and has not come back on. Has anyone else had this to happen to them??
  • mj_biddermj_bidder Posts: 1
    Wow, don't tell me someone knows the answer to my problem:

    I have an '01 Sebring and the climate control fan has recently stopped working on all of the settings except at the highest speed.

    Can anyone tell me how to resolve this problem? What part will fix this and is it easy to install?

    Applogies if this has been answered before but I've just joined.

  • Greetings,

    I have the same problems with my air bag light and the blower motor resistor. I got the fan thing fixed, cost about $65 for labor and the part.

    Does anyone know that if I am involved in an accident, will my air bag go off while the light is on? I am wondering if the airbag will function properly.

    Also I am worried about the air bag going off without reason while I am driving.

    Does anyone know more info about this condition?

    I have a 2001 Sebring Limited convertible.

    Don't you think Chrysler should do a recall or something since so many people are having the same problems?

    Any suggestions or comments can be sent to

  • donc514donc514 Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem in my '98 except at idle - then I replaced the plugs and wires myself - now it won't start at all - cranks with spark and fuel (on plugs when I removed them to check spark)

    My Problem used to go away after car was trying to idle for 5 or so minutes.

    No OBD codes - but it never starts I'm not sure if I'd even get any codes ??
    I have replaced the Fuel Filter - but still not starting.

    Did the fuel Pump fix yours?

    - DJC
  • cfritzccfritzc Posts: 3
    No, unfortunately they decided NOT to try the fuel pump - because of where it's located, is my understanding of their reasoning - and instead have ordered a new computer to try instead.

    Now, I'm a professional computer geek by trade, yet I haven't the foggiest idea to what extent the 'computer' on my car will change things, how much it costs, any of that.

    I've been told by other folks here where I live to suggest they check the fuel injector, and the torque sensor. What do I know? I can only surmise the shop has checked these things already, but will mention them regardless. Surely they would do everything -else- before resorting to fiddling with the computer, wouldn't they??

    Then again, someone else mentioned taking the car to another shop, but.. I'll have to get it back from the first shop in order to do that. It's been three weeks this time, if I'm thinking correctly.

    At the very least, when all's said and done, if they EVER get it up and running again, maybe it'll run for a good long while, what with a practically brand new engine.

  • wtimwtim Posts: 1
    I've had both of these problems on my '02 Sebring Limited cnvt. I had the climate control fan repaired a few months ago, at around 36K miles. Seems to me they had to replace the entire heater motor.

    I've had the air bag light problem twice.......and now it's doing it again, all within 14 months. The first time, they replaced a sensor for the driver's seat belt - the second time, they replaced the same sensor on the passenger's side. Each repair was approx. $300. I don't what they'll blame it on this time.

    I now have over 45K miles on the car.
  • james31james31 Posts: 1

    P0136 O2 SENSOR B1 S2 MALF

  • migashmigash Posts: 3
    i was leaving work and started to accelterate. then all of a sudden i herd a hallow thud sound (sounded like a pair of steel toed boots kicking something) fallowed by the sound of something like a whole lot of gravel in my wheel well (no i wasnt driveing on gravel).

    then my battery light turned on

    i drove home like normal with no "problems" save the light.

    my car still always starts, however after about 300-400 yards the light comes back on.

    other things wrong with the car... the rpm gage, and the mileage keep turring on and off randomly.

    someitmes they stay on for a week
    sometimes they turn on ater i "get going"
    sometimes they just dont turn on at all.

    other then that What could be up with my car?

    UPDATE: my car died

    while i was driving one by one things turnd off on my car.. till i couldnt even get the emergancy lights to work. its dead in the water now
  • I am currently experiencing the same problem. The air bag light had come on and stayed on for two days in October of last year, but then went off. Just last week, it came on again and is now on continuously.

    I have an extended warranty and I am taking to the dealer later this week. I will post an update after my visit to the dealer.
  • Please let us know if you have any info on this.... I just arted getting the same thing...
  • hi, i experienced the same problem with my air bag light! It stayed on for about 2 mos. I took it to a trusted independant garage and the guy checked the air bag "fuse" which is located under the wood grained console it pops off. After he located and inspected the fuse it was blown, after he replaced it the light immediately went off!!!!! In conclusion replace your airbag fuse!!!!!!!
  • Last night after dinner, my 2000 Sebring Convertible would start and run for about 2 seconds before dying. Today I was checking things out and noticed the red anti theft system dash light was not illuminated. I reset all the fuses in the underhood fuse box and, as if by divine intervention, the dash light started working and the car started and ran just fine. Is this common? Is my anti theft module beginning to croak?
  • hoyohoyo Posts: 1
    In my 95 sebring LXI, the abs light is on continously. I had it in the shop and they found a bad abs sensor on the left rear wheel in addition to a faulty abs computer.
    The sensor they changed, but the computer was too expensive so I got hold of a used one on ebay, supposedly tested and ok. The problem with the light is still there after the swap and I was wondering if anyone know if I have to reprogramme the computer? This computer is located inside the compartement below the glovebox.

  • kmnkmn Posts: 3
    I had the same problem in my 01 convt. and it was the passengerside seatbelt reciever. That fixed the problem
  • I was driving this morning, and the Battery Light comes on. I looked a the manual, but it gave no indication as to why. Any one out there with knowledge of this? Thanks!!
  • cory98cory98 Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 sebring lx and it like looses power when driving for like 30 mins at a time. Mechanics have told me that it might be the catltic converter or the fuel filter. I dont know what it is. It will drive fine for 25 to 30 mins then it will loose power. Then you turn the car off and let it sit for 15 mins it wont do that, until like 25 to 30 mins have passed.
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