Chrysler Sebring Warning Lights and Problem Codes
Hi Folks. My 1997 JX is having some problems and the mechanics can't seem to find it. In short the car first started showing problems by getting extremly loud. I thought it was in need of a new muffler, but the shop told me that wasn't the case.
Next, the car started missing while it was idling, and lately it will hesitate when I try to accelerate.
The check engine light continues to come on, but the error code indicates that it the problem is the oxygeon sensor. They've replaced that twice, but no luck.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Next, the car started missing while it was idling, and lately it will hesitate when I try to accelerate.
The check engine light continues to come on, but the error code indicates that it the problem is the oxygeon sensor. They've replaced that twice, but no luck.
Anyone have any thoughts?
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My problems are:
1) Oil light keeps coming on when I'm in Drive and at a stoplight and the engine idles low. If I rev the engine just a hair, the oil light goes off.
2) Stupid Service Engine Soon light keeps coming on. I've had it checked by Chrysler 5 times and they can never find anything wrong and just reset it. I've discovered that it comes on shortly after I fill up the gas tank and shortly before I need to fill it. I'm somewhat used to seeing it coming on and going off but it's still kind of unsettling to see it.
3) I've read that the timing belt needs to be replaced at 106k. Is this major work to replace? Also, mechanics have told me that I should just drive it until it falls off ... any assesments?
ANY suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Oh, the stitching on the rag top is starting to come undone on the vinyl top in several places. Is there any method of putting some stitching in with somekind of tool? The car loan has been paid off and I just want to keep all costs down to a minimum.
I really love this car. No problems except for the ones I've just mentioned. Who says Detroit can't build reliable cars?
Michael
One of the automotive garages replaced both of my 02 sensors, but the problem continued. Another garage replaced the fuel filter & thermostat, but the problem continued. The dealership said that my computer (PCM) was bad, and it was replaced.
The erratic idle problem continues to this day, which makes driving the car very difficult, albeit unsafe. 3 automotive garages (including the original dealership) have tried to find the problem, but to no avail. I have already spent over $2000 on this issue, and the car isn't worth more than $4000 to date.
I might as well note, as an aside, that my transmission was completely rebuilt at 49K miles, along with the replacement of the water pump, the distributor cap & the timing belt - Not to mention that the brakes have been replaced 4+ times, and the front end was rebuilt through a recall.
Suffice to say that I will NEVER BUY ANOTHER CHRYSLER PRODUCT nor RECOMMEND CHRYSLER TO ANYONE.
They started with replacing o2 sensor, and the spark plugs. The engine light still comes on. Our's has only 3400 miles on it and the dealer has had it 5 times.
I had the same problem of the light coming on, and the dealer I took it to said it can come on because you don't tighten the gas cap tight enough after filling.
Be sure you tighten it enough that you hear 3 clicks!
Bria
My service engine light is on and I didn't get a manual with my car. Could someone please tell me how to reset this? Thanks! :mad:
Thanks guys!
It seemed to do alright, up until about two months ago. Apparently, the water pump went bad, and it overheated, and I had it towed to the same shop again. While they were in there - they grumbled about how difficult the engine was to work on because it was configured oddly? - they changed the timing belt as well.
After that, the car would sputter now and then, a hesitation that, if I took my foot off the gas pedal, seemed to correct itself. But it kept getting worse. I thought 'spark plugs and wires?' so made a note to get it in and get it fixed as soon as I could afford it. Unfortunately, the car beat me to the punch.
The first time it died, it started to sputter again, but no easing of my foot from the gas did any good. It kept sputtering, coughing, losing power, until it finally strangled to death completely. I had it towed in, and the shop worked on it. That was a month ago. Just this evening, I went and picked up the car for the.. hmm.. 6th time? And even though they've now replaced another sensor, the distributor, the spark plugs and wires, and something else I can't recall, it did it again. Sputtered. Coughed. Wheezed. Chugged. Strangled. Died - a long slow painful death. It seems to happen after about 30 to 45 minutes of driving.
I called the shop, and they're going to retrieve it and try the fuel pump next. I've invested far too much money into this thing already, but I have no other alternative or choice. I NEED my vehicle. The garage guys are still baffled, and if the fuel pump doesn't fix it, I think they're at the end of their rope as well.
HELP?? Does this sound even vaguely familiar to anyone out there?
Seeing this -
<<#267 of 267 Re: PLEASE HELP ME I AM GOING CRAZY!!!! [mom3402] by tanglewood Jun 30, 2005 (8:52 am)
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Replying to: mom3402 (May 27, 2005 10:38 pm)
Sounds like a blocked catalytic converter. Over time the internals get loose and block the exhaust. >>
- reminded me that the shop also worked on the catalytic converter. They also checked to see if a vapor lock had been created somehow, but it's the orginal gas cap and that seems not to be the case either.
Still hopeful
C~
Also, in some earlier posts, someone was describing how their climate control fan doesn't work on the lower speeds - I have the same problem. I just ordered the part to fix it.
This along with a few other small nuisances make me wonder how a 2002 with 22,000 miles will hold up in the long run.
I have an '01 Sebring and the climate control fan has recently stopped working on all of the settings except at the highest speed.
Can anyone tell me how to resolve this problem? What part will fix this and is it easy to install?
Applogies if this has been answered before but I've just joined.
Thanks.
I have the same problems with my air bag light and the blower motor resistor. I got the fan thing fixed, cost about $65 for labor and the part.
Does anyone know that if I am involved in an accident, will my air bag go off while the light is on? I am wondering if the airbag will function properly.
Also I am worried about the air bag going off without reason while I am driving.
Does anyone know more info about this condition?
I have a 2001 Sebring Limited convertible.
Don't you think Chrysler should do a recall or something since so many people are having the same problems?
Any suggestions or comments can be sent to jenniferlynn580@yahoo.com
Thanks!
My Problem used to go away after car was trying to idle for 5 or so minutes.
No OBD codes - but it never starts ...so I'm not sure if I'd even get any codes ??
I have replaced the Fuel Filter - but still not starting.
Did the fuel Pump fix yours?
- DJC
Now, I'm a professional computer geek by trade, yet I haven't the foggiest idea to what extent the 'computer' on my car will change things, how much it costs, any of that.
I've been told by other folks here where I live to suggest they check the fuel injector, and the torque sensor. What do I know? I can only surmise the shop has checked these things already, but will mention them regardless. Surely they would do everything -else- before resorting to fiddling with the computer, wouldn't they??
Then again, someone else mentioned taking the car to another shop, but.. I'll have to get it back from the first shop in order to do that. It's been three weeks this time, if I'm thinking correctly.
At the very least, when all's said and done, if they EVER get it up and running again, maybe it'll run for a good long while, what with a practically brand new engine.
C~
I've had the air bag light problem twice.......and now it's doing it again, all within 14 months. The first time, they replaced a sensor for the driver's seat belt - the second time, they replaced the same sensor on the passenger's side. Each repair was approx. $300. I don't what they'll blame it on this time.
I now have over 45K miles on the car.
P0136 O2 SENSOR B1 S2 MALF
P0141 O2 SENSOR B1 S2 HTR MALF ( THINK THESE TWO ARE THE SAME JUST TWO DIFFERENT CODES NOT SURE THOUGH?
P1610 MFR CTRLLED COMPUTER OUTPUT CKT ( THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WILL NOT COME ON AT ALL WHAT IS THE MOST COMIN PROBLEM TO CAUSE THIS ?
then my battery light turned on
i drove home like normal with no "problems" save the light.
my car still always starts, however after about 300-400 yards the light comes back on.
other things wrong with the car... the rpm gage, and the mileage keep turring on and off randomly.
someitmes they stay on for a week
sometimes they turn on ater i "get going"
sometimes they just dont turn on at all.
other then that What could be up with my car?
UPDATE: my car died
while i was driving one by one things turnd off on my car.. till i couldnt even get the emergancy lights to work. its dead in the water now
I have an extended warranty and I am taking to the dealer later this week. I will post an update after my visit to the dealer.
Thanks
The sensor they changed, but the computer was too expensive so I got hold of a used one on ebay, supposedly tested and ok. The problem with the light is still there after the swap and I was wondering if anyone know if I have to reprogramme the computer? This computer is located inside the compartement below the glovebox.
Geir
On Friday afternoon, the oil pressure light came on at idle for just a few seconds then disappeared, and then did at again a few minutes later. I got the car into a mechanic this morning(in our area almost all independent mechanics are closed on Saturday) and it was too good to be true. Almost immediately he noticed the oil pressure switch was leaking, so he replaced it. $61! I felt like I won the lottery as I drove away and then 20 minutes later it happened again, this time at every stop.
I need to backup. At one point this mechanic said he would do a "manual oil pressure check" but after he noticed the switch leaking he didn't do it.
I took the car right back and he said the oil pressure must really be low, but he doesn't have one part to do the oil pressure test. He says he will get that one part, call me, we can do the oil pressure test, if it's really low, we can try heavier oil, if that doesn't help we'll probably have to replace the oil pump and that repair is a $600-700 job.
My questions are as follows: Are we spinning our wheels with this oil pressure test, and even after that, will replacing the oil pump solve the problem? I don't know much about cars, but I've never heard of an oil pump being replaced. Finally, is all of this related to the "sludge engine problem" that I read about last year?
Thanks
I NEED HELP! I have a 1996 Chrysler Sebring Convertible JXI 2.5L
I am driving down the freeway at 65 mph, and my engine fails on me, like I am running out of gas! I pull over and the engine idles VERY rough, eventually dies. I CAN restart, however when I give it gas it "Sounds" like I am flooding the engine......I can let it sit 30 minutes, then it starts up again, and I can go about 1/2 mile down the road......I get it towed back to my house, let it sit overnight, and the next day it will start and run JUST fine off the freeway around town going 35 to 45 mph.....but get it back on the freeway, and the SAME THING.....engine looses power, cant go! I have had the TPS replaced, several vaccuum hose connectors that were worn/tattered. Some tell me this is a catalytic converter, others say its a fuel mixture thing, but I am seeking advice of others that have had this problem! EMAIL ME: lascolinasboy22@yahoo.com
Keith McAndrew
Dallas, Texas
My mechanic and I are going TODAY to take it out on the freeway so that HE can experience the problem first hand! He is stronly leaning towards a vaccuum hose/regulator problem, but since the DAMN car wont throw and service codes for him and his computer, we are just going to tkae it out and break it down ON PURPOSE! I will update ANY new information, and I appreciate ANYONE else's input, and I will relay ANY infor I get!
Keith
I have a mechanic looking at my car now, he says it is a mix between the fuel pump pressure not reaching optimal pressure, and the distributor! I am drawing up estimates too to see how much this will cost! I thought I would share that with you! What did you find out if anything about your car stalling on the freeway?! Anyone looked at it yet? what did they tell you????
I have a 2001 lxi and the check engine light keeps coming on. It's a stable light and I add the highet level gas and on occassion add the fuel additive into the tank. Why does this keep happening? Also, I started noticing yesterday, when I start to speed up, the car feels as if it's catching or jumping a little bit. Any ideas on either of these things will help me alot! The car has 62k miles on it now and has just been given a lube. thanks so much!