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Chrysler Sebring Warning Lights and Problem Codes



  • ncky1224ncky1224 Posts: 2
    I have a 96 Sebring Convertible JX and it just recently has started to stall out and not want to start. Sometimes I will be driving down the road it will be die, my steering in the car becomes tight and it dies. Then it will not start for a few minutes. After I let it sit for a while, it starts. I brought it to a local garage this past month and they replaced the Map sensor and said it was all fixed. However this morning I drove it to work and then I was leaving at lunch time and the car was dead???? I got it running and drove it back to the garage tonight. Any ideas anyone?
  • tprovolttprovolt Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1995 Sebring LXi which is in almost new condition and that I absolutely love. I only purchased it a week and a half ago. Just today it didn't want to start, and then while I was driving it just cut out (a few times). One thing that was different than every other day, was that yesterday I accidentally set off the alarm (which I didn't know was armed) by opening the passenger side door. Have you learned anything else about why your car might be cutting out? :confuse:
  • no1bobono1bobo Posts: 1
    Unfortunately, the airbag will not deploy in an accident. I had the same problem with my 2002 limited. I wonder if it is all tied together. My fan motor stopped blowing and they fixed that under warranty. The airbag light mysteriously came on and I took it after warranty to be repaired by the dealer.The dealer instructed me that as long as the light was on that the air bag would not deploy. They said it was one or both seat belt sensors. By the time I was ready to have the work done to fix it, it mysteriously went off. Now it is back on a year later.
  • ncky1224ncky1224 Posts: 2
    I haven't heard anything back about the car cutting out. The garage that I brought it to is now closed due to a electric fire there so I have been waiting on an appointment at the local Chrysler dealership. Just my luck they dont have an opening until the end of next week. :confuse:
  • We bought a used 2001 Sebring LXi V-6 2.7 litre engine vehicle in January 2005. It had 59k miles then, it now has 86k miles. We have been very good about oil changes especially after I read in this forum about the possibility of sludge. We live in a hot climate(North Texas) and the oil gets changed every 3000-3500 miles.

    On Friday afternoon, the oil pressure light came on at idle for just a few seconds then disappeared, and then did at again a few minutes later. I got the car into a mechanic this morning(in our area almost all independent mechanics are closed on Saturday) and it was too good to be true. Almost immediately he noticed the oil pressure switch was leaking, so he replaced it. $61! I felt like I won the lottery as I drove away and then 20 minutes later it happened again, this time at every stop.

    I need to backup. At one point this mechanic said he would do a "manual oil pressure check" but after he noticed the switch leaking he didn't do it.

    I took the car right back and he said the oil pressure must really be low, but he doesn't have one part to do the oil pressure test. He says he will get that one part, call me, we can do the oil pressure test, if it's really low, we can try heavier oil, if that doesn't help we'll probably have to replace the oil pump and that repair is a $600-700 job.

    My questions are as follows: Are we spinning our wheels with this oil pressure test, and even after that, will replacing the oil pump solve the problem? I don't know much about cars, but I've never heard of an oil pump being replaced. Finally, is all of this related to the "sludge engine problem" that I read about last year?

  • derekw420derekw420 Posts: 4
    Im having the exact same problem. Ive replaced numerous parts (timing belt, distrubtor and cap, fuel pump, wires and plugs) and nothing fixed it. Ive checked the air intake and filters to make sure it is recieving the proper amount of airflow. Im thinking of taking it to the muffler shop and getting a flow test done and then cleaning or replacing injectors. Please let me know if you find out what is wrong with yours.
  • derekw420derekw420 Posts: 4
    I finally got my problem figured out. There was a bracket that holds the ERG valve. A pin slipped out of the braket and made my car run like crap. It was about $150 for the part and well worth it. The mechanic told me that it is very hard to change and thats why most mechanics overlook that part and go on to somethig else. All I know is that my car is purring like a kitten now.
  • Can you tell me exactly what was wrong with your car I'm trying to figure out is that what i need?
  • derekw420derekw420 Posts: 4
    When I would come to a stop, my RPMs would drop and sometimes my car would die. I could start it right back up but I would have to give it some gas or it would immediately die again. My check engine light came on and when I checked the code, it was reading a "fuel air mixture problem". The missing ERG pin was making my car run too rich resulting in a carbon build-up inside of the engine and injectors, so I had to clean that out also. It felt like my timing was off or some of my spark plugs werent working but that wasnt the case. Also, if I was driving at 5mph or more, it didnt seem to have any problems. It was only when I would stop or start my car without holding the gas peddle down a bit. I also took my car to a muffler shop because I thought I may have had an exhaust problem but it checked out fine. It ran even worse when my AC was on. Let me know if this helped you.
  • Thank you it helped me alot. The problem I am having is that I could be on the freeway and all of sudden my car would just lose gas even if I push the pedal. I would have to sit on the side of the road for about 30 min. Sometimes it would die, sometimes it wouldn't. However, if after sitting for about 30 min it would drive fine again for about 2 more weeks then happen again. The mechanic says they cant do anything until my light comes on. It finally came on after 2 months, now I keep getting different diagnosis.
  • derekw420derekw420 Posts: 4
    I had that same problem with a GMC Sonoma and it ended up being a carbon build-up in the engine. Your ERG value could cause that. I had to wait 15 min before attempting to start it and if I didnt wait that long, then I would have to wait another 15 min from the time of the last attempt. Mine would die or start stuttering when I would get on the entrance ramp for the freeway. Sometimes it would die and start itself back up when I was coasting. Everyone kept telling me that it was the computer but I had it replaced and the problem was still there. Good luck
  • I am kind of having that same issue however I am not sure..........

    I NEED HELP! I have a 1996 Chrysler Sebring Convertible JXI 2.5L

    I am driving down the freeway at 65 mph, and my engine fails on me, like I am running out of gas! I pull over and the engine idles VERY rough, eventually dies. I CAN restart, however when I give it gas it "Sounds" like I am flooding the engine......I can let it sit 30 minutes, then it starts up again, and I can go about 1/2 mile down the road......I get it towed back to my house, let it sit overnight, and the next day it will start and run JUST fine off the freeway around town going 35 to 45 mph.....but get it back on the freeway, and the SAME THING.....engine looses power, cant go! I have had the TPS replaced, several vaccuum hose connectors that were worn/tattered. Some tell me this is a catalytic converter, others say its a fuel mixture thing, but I am seeking advice of others that have had this problem! EMAIL ME:

    Keith McAndrew
    Dallas, Texas
  • Man I am having the EXACT same problems with my car as we speak. I have the same year, make and model that you have now. I took it to get checked out they told me that I need to replace my O2 Sensors. I did that. Then it moved to replacing the air and fuel filters and a fuel injector service. I did that. The problem is still going on so now they tell me that it is my fuel pump. So I am going to get that replaced today. Hopefully this will help the problem. Also, they were saying that I need to get a tune -up done also. I don't think it has anything to do with a tune-up though. The only that sucks is I don't know when it is going to fail on me on the road. I hope this helps. Also if you really find out what is wrong. PLEASE let me know your stats.
  • :shades: what i was told that both 02 sensors have to be replaced. now if ur cata is plugged which mine is on bottom of car u have t have both cata's replaced to get ur car to run right. Both cata's have to be in good shape for the 02 sensors to work properly.

    My mechanic and I are going TODAY to take it out on the freeway so that HE can experience the problem first hand! He is stronly leaning towards a vaccuum hose/regulator problem, but since the DAMN car wont throw and service codes for him and his computer, we are just going to tkae it out and break it down ON PURPOSE! I will update ANY new information, and I appreciate ANYONE else's input, and I will relay ANY infor I get!

    Keith :)
  • Good luck! Let me know what they find. I will do the same. :)
  • Did you happen to find out what was the status on your car? :)
  • LADYBUG22_98

    I have a mechanic looking at my car now, he says it is a mix between the fuel pump pressure not reaching optimal pressure, and the distributor! I am drawing up estimates too to see how much this will cost! I thought I would share that with you! What did you find out if anything about your car stalling on the freeway?! Anyone looked at it yet? what did they tell you????
  • Thank you I will be waiting for your info. No one really knows what is wrong with my car. I have tried to called Chrysler and even talked to dealership personally. They say its one thing then I do it. However, I am still having problems with this car. Let me know what they tell you Please. :(
  • Hi,
    I have a 2001 lxi and the check engine light keeps coming on. It's a stable light and I add the highet level gas and on occassion add the fuel additive into the tank. Why does this keep happening? Also, I started noticing yesterday, when I start to speed up, the car feels as if it's catching or jumping a little bit. Any ideas on either of these things will help me alot! The car has 62k miles on it now and has just been given a lube. thanks so much!
  • We recently purchased a 2000 Sebring convertible 2.5l V-6. Shortly after I changed oil the Oil Pressure light began blinking at idle. Was not overly concerned as light went off if RPM went over 500 and did not have any valve noise. Oil levels checked ok. Problem was intermmediate but has gotten worse. Light is now remaining on at higer RPM (goes off at 1500) but still not having any other problems,(Oil levels OK, No burning oil smell, no valve noise, no check engine light). Have heard that the oil swich on these models has been a problem. Is this something I should be concerned about?
  • Could a faulty fan belt cause the "service engine soon" light to come on? 1997 Chrysler Sebring convertible JXi, one owner (me) and have had nothing but problems with this car for almost 10 years now.

    Thanks for any help.
  • mic11mic11 Posts: 4
    That just happened to my 99 jxi. Do you know what the problem is?
  • joejxijoejxi Posts: 5
    I have a 1998 jxi with the exact same problem. Oil light started coming on at low idle and has now progressed up to 2000 rpm. The Dodge dealer says my oil pressure is
    26 pounds at idle. I had the switch changed and it was ok for four (4) days! It rapidly progressed back to staying on at 2000 rpm. Dealer says change the switch again. I declined. The newer 2.7L engines apparently have a sludge problem. I am beginning to think that the pressure sensor is getting plugged up. Have you found any cause or cure yet?
  • What weight oil are you using. Had taken to mechanic to have the pressure verified and they indicated that engine did have low oil pressure and would probably need a ring job or overhaul. The poor man's repair was to switch to a lighter weight oil and so far that has worked. Was using 10-30 and swiched to 5-20.
  • joejxijoejxi Posts: 5
    My oil light continued to come on so I returned to Dodge/Chrysler dealer. They were right about replacing the sensor again. I had work done at my local garage where I was told that it was a simple job and they could do it cheaper than the dealer. When they put the new sensor in they apparently tightened it with a pair of pliers, fracturing the seal between the metal and the plastic. It leaked oil and would not activate the switch. I have the old unit and can see the marks on the plastic. Chryslers price for replacing the sensor was $10 LESS than my local garage and has a one year parts/labor warranty. L&L all is now well.
  • jimrapjimrap Posts: 2
    I suspect I need to replace the Oil Pressure sensor on my 2002 Sebring sedan with a 2.7 V-6 as the low oil pressure light comes on at low idle. Is this easy to replace? I am fairly mechanical so willing to try.
  • Had same problem at about 50 - 60,000 miles on 2002 Limited conv. Lite would come on for a couple of days and then go off for a few days. Eventually, lite came on and off several times per day. Never did know why. I did have some vacuum lines replaced because of a check engine lite coming on, and the air bag lite has not come on since. Go figure
  • jimrapjimrap Posts: 2
    My low oil pressure light was fixed by replacing the sending unit. Buy the part from a dealer though as aftermarket are not reliable. Must first remove oil filter, then 3 bolts to take off a small shroud that protects the sending unit. I used a Crescent wrench to remove the sending unit and it was very laborious; but it did fix the problem.
  • qackqack Posts: 1
    Did you need to raise the car up to do get at the oil pressure sending unit? Also, is there enough room up there to put in a tee and a second pressure sending unit which would be attached to a real oil pressure gauge? I still want the idiot light to work as an idiot occasionally drives the car!
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