MINI Cooper: Problems & Solutions

joester

I want to thank those who responded to my inquiry. The problem with 45-50 offsett mags is that the choices are few. Most of the after market companies offer 100mm offset. Will this be a detriment to the front end components re: wear factor? I know that miniusa won't give you any feed back on that. I did see one at a mini dealer in Cocount Creek Fla. right in the showroom. The dealer had mounted 18" aftermarket mags. What brand I can't remember.
When you do upgrade a car the manufacturer has the upper hand and can disavow the warranty if you incurr a problem. I guess thats the chance that you take.
I also wanted to respond to the person with the tire rotation issue. According the Bentley's factory mini manual the order of maintainance of tires is NOT to rotate. I know. . .this goes against rule of thumb but heck it is the factory manual. Also other cars follow this philosophy ie: Acura NSX.
Chin spoiler touching down? This car is very low no secret but thats the trade off for the great handling. I have a driveway too and a buddy of mine who owns a Solara (Toyota) has "nose touch down" problems , gave me a method to get around it.
When you go into your driveway, don't go in square. Straddle your left front first then you right front or the inverse. Since using this method I touch down a lot less. As for undulations in the road all I can tell you is to keep your "MINE SWEEPER" on the high sensetivity when going down the road. If the guy in front of you swerves around a pot hole do like wise.
I picked my mini over the SRT-4. More thought went into the mini. The fit and finish and it's not how fast you get up to speed. It's what the car does once it reaches the upper speeds.
Joester

joester

Rayt2,
I looked at the tire rack web page (thanks for the lead), anyway they are 4X 100 mm on their mags. Do you have any tracking problems with this size? How long have you had them on your car?
I've used tire rack in the past for tires and had no problems with them.
Thanks,
Joester

gopguyca

I like to think that the incident with parralel parking was nothing... It wasn't a collision just a rubbing. Aside from the marks that came right off and the few scruffs on the rim, that aren't noticable... Everything else was fine.

I didn't think anything was wrong with the drive until after the Pep Boys incident. It was after that hitting the road when coming out of the parking lot that I noticed the brake sound. Personally, it bugs the hell out of me, that sound. But logically, I think it's nothing as every other car I test drove aside the Mini made that same sound.

Either way, I'm taking the car in to get those memory settings changed and to have them replace the ashtray -- A piece in it broke so the lid doesn't close or open properly. Should I ask them when I take him in if he those brake sounds are normal? Or no? And tbh, I'm still not sure I'm getting those memory settings changed as I really don't want to have to go through the hassle of it.

rayt2

Digby.......You were a victim of a big time Lemon :lemon: and unscrupulous dealer. Sorry for your bad experience with the one and only Mini you would ever own. Lemons are possible and your experience speaks for itself. Bottom line is you were screwed. I went thru N.Y lemon law on a chevy pick-up and got all back but took a hit with any mileage over 18k.

Joester... I have put 25k miles on my 205/50 series wheels/tires with no problem of tracking. They do react faster in turns over the OEM 15". If there are variants in road surface ie: well worn areas that have devloped concaves to them, you'll notice that to but no big deal. I saw 38 different wheel choices in 16" for the Cooper so there are a few to choose from. The price range is determining factor of course. I went with the Fox 5 Sports $110 each plus the 205/50 B.F Goodrich Traction tires. Bear in mind the finer the pattern or complexity to design pattern on wheels the harder to keep clean. The front wheels get the most brake dust so more cleaning with them. I really like the look of a wider wheel and tire, it fills in the wheel wells and looks hefty from the rear. I did find that I had to readjust tire pressure over the sticker recommendations on door since I was seeing more wear in center, so I dropped tire pressure a couple pounds all around.

Ray T. :P

joester

Rayt2,
I agree. The finer the design the more work. And yes the front wheels do churn up a lot of brake dust. Then again I have the pepper white cooper so I'm used to cleaning it. I also learned the hard way that those who like to use tire shine products are in for an awakening. The wheel wells are so small that once you manouver the car the stuff sprays all over your hood. You mentioned New York so I figure that I'd tell you that I bought from Mini of Manhattan. Great experiance. My original salesman left before my car came in and that gave me anxiety as you never know who's coming out of the "ballpen" to assume your sale and possibly take advantage of you. It turned out ok. I do have to say that although the New Jersey dealer provided me with my first taste of a mini through a test drive, I felt that they were a little detached and cold. Subsequently I bought from New York.
Is it my imagination or do a lot of the complaints that I've seen stem from the automatic versions of these cars? I have the 5 speed and did read that one person blew his clutch in 5000 miles? So far shifting sensibly have left me with consistant problem free operation. The mini handles like nothing else I've test driven. I would buy one again. The two reasons I didn't go for the "S" version was that 1. my wife bought first in our upgrade attempts and that was a sizable note on a Pacifica. 2. I wanted mpg more than horsepower. The S only avails about 30-35 more horses. That wasn't enough to justify the mileage drop.
Getting back to mag updates, I think it's a good idea to order extra center hub covers and they do get lost and wheels get discontinued. I will do that with my new set.
Joester

bodble2

I wonder if anyone else has noticed, but I found out the hard way that the interior plastic (ie. the stuff covering the back of the front seats) scuffs rather easily. We transported a couple of large fibreglass planters home yesterday. It was a tight fit so the planters butted up against the back of the seats. They were fairly light-weight planters so I thought no big deal. But I guess the bounce from the ride caused them to press and rub against the plastic. So by the time we got home there were a couple of inch-long permanent scratch/scuff marks on the plastic. :sick: I guess they don't really expect people to use the Mini to haul stuff. We had a CR-V a few years back, and the plastic liner in the cargo area was able to withstand all sorts of hauling of skis, luggage, small furnitures, etc.

For owners of 2 -3 years old Mnis, how are you finding the interior holding up to wear and tear?

jwinders

I have the same exact problem. We were hauling a few things in the back of our Mini and they rubbed up against the back of our seats. The result is permanent marks in the plastic. Be careful because the side interior plastic is not much better, I have smaller "indentations" there as well. I tried rubbing them out and also tried "Armor All" hoping it would bring it back to the new look, but had no luck. Noone ever rides back there anyways, but it still bothers me.

crunch

I think you may be confusing the bolt pattern (4 x 100) with the offset. All MINIs require a 4x100 pattern as do many other cars. On the Tire Rack site, you have to choose the 'view wheel closeup' get the specifics of the wheel to see the offset. Better yet, give them a call. Tire Rack has lots of suitable wheels and I have never heard of them selling someone a set of wheels that won't fit the car.

jayfo1

hi there,

i just bought a 2002 mini used, standard transmission just like yours, and ugh, its not even a week, and i'm already experiencing similar problems. my main problem is that the engine dies out when i downshift from second to first, as well as the popping out of gear as you mentioned. i'm over here in the philippines, so there's no dealer/service to bring the car into, so i was wondering what the source of the problem and what the fix-it was. also, i don't have the owner's manual and again, mini cooper owners are scarce around here - what does the "EML" light stand for? thanks a lot!!

bodble2

The EML is the engine malfunction indicator light. Per the manual, it indicates that the engine electronics are malfunctioning. It says you can still drive it (with reduced engine output and speed) but should have it checked by a dealer ASAP.

novice

Okay--my wife picks up her 2005 Cooper Saturday: base engine w/CVT, black leatherette, pure silver, sports package, and premium package. Most Minis are the Sports version, larger engine, and many stick shifts it seems. With the smaller engine and CVT, can owners respond to these aspects:

CVT transmission problems or dissatisfaction--
Engine responsiveness--(it seemed adequate on the test drive, but that wasn't
extensive)
Ride harshness--
Other problems--
Thanks--

bodble2

We have almost the exact same car, right down to the pure silver colour. We didn't get the sports package, however.

The engine/transmission is zippy enough --- once it gets going. It IS a bit sluggish off-the-line for the first 30 feet or so. We have not driven ours on the highway, but I suspect power will be OK but the engine may be a bit noisy at highway speeds. But for us, the Mini's main mission is as an urban commuter. The engine is not particularly smooth, but it gets the job done. The CVT's worst trait is probably its lurchiness at slow speeds, at light throttle applications -- ie. maneuvring into a parking spot, puttering around a parking lot, stop-and-go traffic, etc. For some reason, the transition from throttle on/throttle off is just not as smooth as it should be.

The ride can be jarring if the road surface is rough. Don't expect to be able to sail over potholes!

We scratched the interior plastic trim in a couple of spots, so you'd have to be careful if you use your Mini to transport stuff.

The base stereo is not the best in the world.

The on-board computer seems to be slow in computing fuel consumption. In fact, I'm not sure if it is all that accurate. But we don't depend on it to actually calculate the mpg, so to us, it's irrelevant. We only got the computer because the dealer offered it for free.

We've only had ours for a month, so no other problem has been observed.

I think you have to approach your Mini ownership with realistic expectations. (I'm referring to the base engine with CVT) It is not meant to be a practical, all-purpose, family vehicle. It is best used as a second vehicle, mainly for urban commuting where you would only occassionally use the back seat. It will not win many drag races, but it handles like the demon, with telepathic steering, and you can almost park it with your eyes closed.

novice

bodble2,

Thanks for the great review. We (she) have realistic expectations about the car. Lots of cars are bad with potholes. The Mini is a sportier, more driveable vehicle so all the refinements aren't expected. The CVt sounds a bit weird but I guess that can be taken with stride as well. After a month, I'll report the reaction.

bodble2

I almost forgot -- you will have to deal with some extra attention wherever you park your Mini. In front of your house, at the mall, at Home Depot, etc. etc. People will stop and look and smile. Your neighbours will come over and want to look inside and comment how great it looks. :shades: It is an absolute styling and marketing phenomenon, given that the model is in its fourth year of production!

hatemymini

I was so happy to get my 2004 MINI S one year ago, but the experience has been all negative. I decided to live with the overly harsh ride and the interior rattles because the car was so cool and ran OK. However, the seat back broke and fell backwards, the shift knob became loose and had to be replaced, the backup light and park distance control module failed and had to be replaced (3 dealer visits) and now, the car bucks, lurches, and has "gear lash" as you start out and accelerate. This has occured since the emissions recall reprogrammed the engine. The dealer tells me that "they all do that" and there is nothing that can be done. MINI USA has no one to talk with about technical matters and refers me back again to the dealer. Unless you want a personal, constant, and ongoing relationship with your MINI dealer, avoid this dog. Mine is now for sale.

mary13

AM CONSIDERING PUCHASING A MINI, AM NOT TO KNOWLEDGEABLE ABOUT CARS , HAVE HEARD CONFLICTING REPORTS AS TO IF CURRENT OWNERS WOULD DO IT AGAIN........PLEASE RESPOND AND STATE ANY AND ALL DRAWBACKS AS WELL AS BONUSES.MANY THANKS

bamacooper

after clutch job {done by tech shop},power steering pump won't run.
there are no blown fuses,I have power on a wire with key off,another with key on
(making two), what makes it run ?
any help appreciated

dlefont

I Have the same problem, but I cannot tell where the noise originated from.

cosanostra

My wife has had her MC for just under a year and (knock on wood) it has been problem free. Aside from the hassle we had at the dealer :mad: , I see no reason that we wouldn't buy it again. Its a great little car to tool around in.

SL

bodble2

It is a great second car, to be used primarily for urban commuting. Used in that mode it is very satisfying. Great attention-getter too, even after 3+ years on the market. However, if used as a primary daily driver, the ride, lack of space and refinement will get to you after awhile. I know that when I drive ours, say, on Saturday to run a couple of errands, it seems like great fun, but if I have to use it all weekend, by the end of the second day, I couldn't wait to get out of it!

cosanostra

It is a great second car, to be used primarily for urban commuting.

Too true. My wife uses it to go back and forth to work and we run errands in it during the weekends, but take my Camry for the road trips. The road trip back form the dealer when we bought the MC was enough to convince us not to try it again.

halberi

My 2003 mini cooper s has had multiple problems since buying ranging from very small to very large problems. One of the most annoying things that has happened though is that whenever it gets hot outside my driver's side window won't roll down. After fiddling with it for aobut 30 min I got it working again but now I can't take it into the dealer because they won't be able to find anything wrong with it since it's working now. Has anyone else had this problem or does anyone know a quick way to fix it that won't cost me hundreds of dollars when I take it into the dealership?

proudnewowner

Can anyone tell me a little more about the window recall? I just bought a 2002 cooper S, and after having it for 2 weeks, the passenger window will no longer go down. Interestingly, the first mini I test drove had this same problem. When I called the service dept about the problem, they mentioned nothing about a recall, just that it was probably the window regulator motor and would cost a bundle to replace.
Any comments? :confuse:

bodble2

Recall or no recall though, shouldn't the problem be covered under warranty?

akitadog

Hi all,

I picked up my MCS on June 1st and am loving it. I am having one problem, or what I think could be a problem. On occasion, when I get out of the car, I smell the clutch burning. Now, I haven't been abusing my clutch, I know I've got to break in the engine and transmission, and I go easy on the clutch at all times, but the smell is a little too strong for me and has me slightly worried.

Can burning the clutch come from letting out the clutch too slowly? I have instances where I need to make some low-speed maneuvers like parking in the garage at work. I'd feel better if the problem comes from my technique, which I can adjust. Although I can drive stick, and have gotten much better at it with the MCS, I only had a few hours time driving sticks before this purchase. But sometimes it smells like I've been doing clutch drops and that is definitely not the case. I am also aware that the clutch needs about 300 miles to be broken in, so it could be that. I hope...

markjenn

A burning clutch smell should not be apparent in normal driving. I suspect that it is your technique, but they could be something wrong with the car. I'd have an experienced clutch driver ride along with you and see if they think your technique could use some work.

Common mistakes by novice drivers:

+ Using too many revs and slipping the clutch for too long to get away. In a normal getaway, the revs should rise above 1500 rpm or so and the period from when the clutch engages to the time when it is fully out shouldn't be longer than a second or so.

+ Once underway, you shouldn't have to use the clutch except to shift. Some drivers have the habit of pushing the clutch in on every corner or anytime they use the brakes. Unless you're changing gears, the clutch should be released and your left foot should be on the floorboard.

+ Another thing to watch for is downshifting through the gears when coming to a stop. If you're in a high gear and coming to a complete stop, don't downshift incrementally through the gears. Leave the transmission in the cruise gear, and leave the clutch alone until revs drop to near idle, then push the clutch in as you come to a stop.

+ When at a stop, put the transmission in neutral, release the clutch, and take your foot off the clutch pedal. Again, the clutch is to change gears or go into neutral, not a substitute for neutral.

+ When on an incline, never use the clutch to keep the car from rolling. This can burn up a clutch in short order. Apply the brake, put the transmission in neutral, and release the clutch until you need to go. When starting on a hill, use the handbrake to hold the car while you select 1st and release the brake. If there is any chance you'lll roll backwards very far, slip the clutch for a second or so so the car is trying to go forward, then release the handbrake. But keep the slipping period as short as possible.

+ Never use the clutch pedal as a footrest.

Good luck,

- Mark

akitadog

Thanks for the tips, Markjenn.

I find that it's a difficult balance between letting the clutch out smoothly and not holding it too long when going into first gear from a stop. I noticed that on a few occasions, I've hit the gas a little too hard when shifting into second or third, to have the revs drop when the clutch engages. I'm sure this wears the clutch a bit. On one occasion, I had to ride the clutch a bit to creep up an uphill on-ramp in traffic because some moron in a Range Rover couldn't get close enough to my bumper. I worried a lot about the clutch wearing in that case.

I've timed myself mentally in letting out the clutch from first and I don't hold it for more than a second and a half, if that. Maybe longer going uphill. And certainly less than a second from engagement to full-out on all other gears.

Well, I'd like to think I'll have my technique all figured out before the clutch goes. I heard one owner's horror story of the clutch being burned out after one week.

markjenn

Can you go to the dealer and take them for a test drive? I'm beginning to suspect there is something wrong with your clutch which is making it more difficult to achieve smooth starts. And the dealer can drive the car and you can see how he/she does it.

At least on my Mini, the clutch is very easy to use. If I'm making a normal start, it takes very little revs and very little slippage.

Good luck,

- Mark

kyfdx

Your car is awfully new.. that smell might not even be the clutch... It could just be all the crap burning off the underside of the car, etc..

Many new cars have all kinds of funky burning smells for the first month or so...

akitadog

This morning, I had pretty decent starts in first gear. I was making the 20 mile commute to work and there was a 10 mile stretch of all highway driving at about 65 mph.

When I got back onto roads w/ traffic lights, I noticed that it was a little more difficult to get a smooth start into first gear. The car would jerk right when the clutch was near the full-out position. This was more pronounced in first and second gears (I suspect it was the case in all gears, but it's harder to tell in the higher gears). I had to let the clutch out noticeably slower to avoid the jerkiness, and I couldn't get rid of it all together, but lessened the feel of it.

I hadn't changed my technique from 15 minutes earlier, so I think the tranny seems to get a little fussy after the long periods in 6th gear at highway speeds. I noticed this on the way home yesterday as well. I also noticed that after a bit of time, it smooths out again. I am going on the 16th for the alarm installation, so I'll be sure that the service dept looks at the tranny.

rayt2

Make sure you go with the tec when he checks out the clutch issue. Drive it yourself with tec in car and then visaversa with tec. See if there is a difference or maybe there is actually a problem after all. Somethnig doesn't sound right or maybe its your technique since its your first standard transmission vehicle, but you usually get better at it since its a learned technique.
My 2 cents worth...

Ray T. :shades:

roofer

I needed to purchase an additional key. I was quoted $130 at my dealer. That was ok, my BMW key was $115 and I knew about all the computer stuff. When I said go ahead I was told that there would also be a $160 programming charge bringing the cost of the key to over $300 with tax!
Has anyone figured out how to address this problem or am I simply held hostage by this un-user friendly policy?
Appreciate thoughts and counsel.

Roofer :mad:

markjenn

I'd try another dealer. A programming charge is not unreasonable (they do have to do some work), but $160 seems out of line. This might be something you could get done over the mail, or wait until your next x-country trip.

- Mark

akitadog

Hi all,

As much as I've been enjoying my new MCS, there are a couple niggling problems.

1. The amazingly loud shifter. If my windows are down, I can hear the "clunk" of the gears reflecting off the walls/parked cars, etc. Is this normal? It feels ok, but it sounds as if some kind of muffling cover was left off.

2. My brakes feel like they're grinding when I use them. Are they still being broken in or is this how they always feel? They work ok, but the sound, especially at low speeds, is unsettling.

As for my earlier clutch problems, my technique has improved and I've pretty much worked around any clutch burning smells I've encountered.

Thanks, all!

bodble2

We have a CVT, so I can't comment on the shifter noise. Our brakes feel fine (so far).

BTW, have you got your alarm installed? Did you dealer explain to you anything about the tilt sensor?

crunch

I drove around a bit with the windows down this morning and no 'clunking' shift noise at all from my MCS. If the brakes are grinding, I'd get that checked ASAP. There have been some instances of stuck calipers on the MINIs causing excessive brake pad wear.

akitadog

I got my alarm installed this past Thursday. I didn't think to mention the whole tilt feature. I will say this about Tate MINI: They're not very good at explaining things. They put the alarm on, told me I was ready to go and that was it. I figured someone would give me a once-over on what would set off the alarm or something like that. But no.

I need to modify my statement about the brake feel. I certainly don't HEAR anything like grinding brakes. It's happened to me before, so I can recognize it if I hear it. But through the pedal, it just feels a bit too raw. There's not as much brake boost as in my other car. I don't think the brakes are stuck, as I can roll pretty easily on a slight incline/decline if I let off the brake while at a standstill. It's just unsettling. Maybe that's simply how the brakes feel, but I don't know for sure.

rayt2

If you have recently washed the car or it has sat out for a day or two with rain the rotors do get surface rust easily that does sound like a grinding when brakes are first applied until it rubs off. Other possibility is the fine granules of sand can get in between the rotor and caliper and cause this sound but not do any damage.
As for the gear noise, make sure you are fully depressing the clutch when shifting or putting it in gear. You may get some noise when going into reverse on occasion, if so then shift into first then go to reverse.

:shades:

beancounterbob

my MCS (automatic) is now about 3 months old. It is getting light useage, being driven around Houston, and I love this vehicle. Have had no problems thus far.

I am noticing a significant build up of black dust on the front wheels. Is this brake dust as they get broken in?

Has anyone else seen this? Something to be concerned about or no?

Not noticing any brake noise or braking problems.

bodble2

I'm afraid the brake dust will be something you'd have to live with for the life of the car. It is just a characteristic of BMW brakes.

kyfdx

Yeah... It isn't a break-in thing.. It is a permanent feature..

And, you need to get it cleaned off at least weekly.. The brake dust will pit the finish on your wheels...

Some people use a wheel-wax, after they clean their wheels.... That way, the brake dust can be wiped off easily..

regards,
kyfdx

glaaki

I have a 2003 S, which I bought used about 4 months ago. The first problem I had was the ubiquitous "window won't go down problem". It was the driver side window. They fixed that by replacing the actuator and the motor. Unfortunately, a new problem has developed. Normally when you open the door, the window goes down slightly so the glass can clear the door sill. On my MINI it sometimes doesn't do this. It stays in the fully up position. This causes several problems. One is that it breaks the molding on the front pillar, and the door won't completely close. It happens pretty rarely, but enough to annoy the crap out me.
I took it back to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong with it.
Has anyone else had this problem or got any ideas?
I can tell you IT IS NOT DUE TO THE WINDOW NOT BEING FULLY UP. I have confirmed this several times.
My guess is that it is a sensor problem.
Anyone??

rayt2

You don't state whether your in or out of warranty anymore, I'll assume you are still within. Contact Service Mgr. and explain the situation, if no resolve thru him then contact General Manager of dealership. Intermitent problems are a headache to resolve sometimes but they need to resolve an issue that is causing damage to your Mini ie: molding coming off because of inoperative window jogging feature. :sick:
Have you gone back with molding in hand when problem occurred or no?? The evidence should be pretty clear to service dept at that point I would think?

I had a problem with passeneger side window jogging itself up and down intermintently while I was driving on my 2003 Cooper. They had to replace driver side door actuator to resolve the passenger side window issue, have dealer check into that.

Good Luck and keep us posted on resolve.

Ray T. :shades:

popsracer

looks like you had some problems. It's now 05, do you still own the car? Maybe , I hate saying it, maybe you got a lemon. I hope you got it all sorted out. I'm waiting for delivery of a Mini Cabrio S. It's a first year run with the ragtop. I would think most of the bugs have been repaired by this date. With the exception of the roof. The cars are lovely and unique, even though there are what 5 million units sold in the UK. Thats really awful to have so many prob's. My parents owned a couple MG's one purchased new in 65, and another much later, once the birds flew the nest. By then they didn't need to squeeze us 7 kids in the back and boot! I must say their cars ( the MG's) always needed a little tweaking. British made, so sporty but a little problematic. I don't want to feel like a moth flying to the open flame. Knock on wood. Hope your still in a Mini! See ya on the road!
Pops Racer

boodalee

I've had my MCS for about a month now. I gotta say it's a pretty fun car to drive. I have an automatic and sometime it take a while for the computer to shift. I'm wondering if that is what led me the the real problem. Day after I picked up my Mini, I was driving normally and suddenly the "EML" light comes on and the car wouldn't accel over 10 mph. I pull over shut it off and the light goes out, but the "Service Engine Soon" stays on. We bring the car into the dealer. They say it's something with the computer, they had to reprogramed it. The service advisor tells me to monitor the situation and if it happens again she might have to replace the computer module. Well a week goes by and it happened again, this time when I turn it back on the "SES" light goes out. I figure everything is ok. Now it has been 3 weeks since we picked the car up and the same problem as before.
DID I GET A LEMON?? :lemon: :lemon:

jetblack

I changed my brake pads with HAWK brake pads and reduceded my brake dust by 99% with no differance in braking and no noise.

tomthumb0

First off, I want to say that the car is a blast to drive. It is the most fun I have ever had in any car.

I was driving around Sacramento, Ca yesterday and at one point, the clutch did not spring back into the starting position :confuse: . I reached behind the clutch pedal with my foot and pulled it back. All was good again. About an hour later, the same problem happened. I reached behind the clutch with my foot and pulled it back up again. No problem, right? Wrong! I went to engage the clutch so I could put the car in gear and was uable to put it in any gear. The clutch had become soft almost all the way to the floor. I was wondering if any one else has had any problem like this or is this just a fluke? Please fill me in.

Thanks for the MINI road side assistance. The tow was free to the local dealer in town. Both myself and the tow truck driver noticed a puddle underneath the front end of the car. I'm thinking a hydraulic line bursted and all the pressure was lost.

Thanks for all the input

rds

I own a driving school and for advertising reasons I thought the mini would be very
noticeable. I bought 2003 auto mini in april 2003. I have 86,000 miles on it. I think I covered every problem from windshield replacement to rattles to locks and lights going on and off and that annoying whistle you hear that is not from a window but from the air circulation somewhere. I was even going to purchase a convertible for myself and was servicing the 2003 mini while ordering my conv. I was told after 2 years my engine needed to be rebuilt and would cost me $6700.
Of course my warrenty was expired, call the main office and as helpful as they were it came down to the NJ dealership and they did not give me any help on cost repair. I have a driving school in the area and refer lots of customers. I brought the car to my mechanic and even though it took them 2 months to fix it only cost 2200. They did not have to rebuild the engine just repair a cyclinder, Of course mini would not sell parts of the cylinder so we had to bring it to a machine shop and have parts made. He also said no way should this have happend after 2 years driving school or not. That was mini big excuse not to help me with cost of fixing, It is used for your business. I have faithfully taken care of this vechile, I have service this almost once a month since I have owned it. How do you feel about oil changes every 20,000 mi. ? I am now doing them more frequently.

rayt2

What exactly went wrong with one of the cylinders ?? $2200 as apposed to $6700 is quite the profit but remember Mini is going to replace the engine rather than fix because there's more in it for them that way. I go no more than 15k on an oil change regardless of the "computer" telling me I can go 18 to 19k. The dealer told me Mini wouldn't cover it unless within 600 miles of the computer readout. When I told them it will cost them a repeat customer and referrals they called corporate and did the change at 25k, after my initial 10k change, for my second and final oil change while under the "free" maintenance. I've got 59k now and my Cooper looks like its going to need it's 3rd steering rack assembly. I just had the 2nd reoplacemnt in March of this year and have 10k on it since. I don't think I'm gonna go for that MCS upgrade after all with the recurrent problems I've had in a little over 2 years with my 2003 Cooper. The fun factor and inquisistive looks from people is nice but I need reliability too. Luckily I'm covered till 60k on this problem even though technically out of warranty according to service mgr.

Ray T. :shades:

crbates

I am having the exact same problem with my 2005 Mini S with the CVT engine at the exact same timeline. I've had it one month and it has stalled on me twice. Same exact scenario you state in your message. It is still in the shop (1 week later). The dealership is saying that they have to reprogram the computer and has sent it to New Jersey! I'm on Dallas, Texas. Any word on your repair. I plan to file under the Texas Lemon Law :lemon: if it happens once more since it has to happen twice to file. I have a friend who has a 6-speed and has not had one problem! I think it's the CVT engine.