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Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems

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Comments

  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    JayAvery,
    Thanks for posting back to us so we understand a little more about this situation. It's nice to know that there are at least a few dealers who know how to fix these problems.
    Dick
  • malbolsmalbols Member Posts: 19
    hmmmm - makes you wonder though . when warranty work is on the line does the service dept. all of a sudden get smarter & more efficient (as opposed to when some poor shmuck has to pay them out of pocket) :mad:
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Actually, they probably get dumber. The warranty pays them, even if they replace the wrong thing.
  • peach2peach2 Member Posts: 4
    Hey, how long hasd it been now since you replaced your ignition? Have you had the same problem since the replacement? thanks and GOD bless.
  • peach2peach2 Member Posts: 4
    Hey in new to this sight. My daughters car just recently started the passlock problem, ive read alot about cutting the yellow wire i have no prpblem with this if someone can tell me whree it is. thanks.
  • peach2peach2 Member Posts: 4
    Did cutting the wire work for you? is it still working thanks for your time.
  • peach2peach2 Member Posts: 4
    did cutting the wire work for you? is it still doing the job? thanks
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Peach2,
    Read this thread from beginning to end. The answer is in here. Especially read post 394 of this thread, but if you want to know the answer, you have to read the entire thread. I know that's a lot of reading, but it will save you $400.00. There is one post with pictures showing how to find the yellow wire by removing the radio. make sure you read that one.
    Dick
  • rmcbride0003rmcbride0003 Member Posts: 1
    We recently installed a new ignition switch in my wife's car and all was good for about three weeks. Then all of a sudden the car quits on her at 55mph one day. It restarted fine and she went about her business. Her father (an ASE cert. Mech. for ford) brought home his monitor and hooked it up and no trouble codes. The thing held fuel pressure for 24 hours, and all sensors were working correctly. He said its possible she had some bad gas. So she starts driving it back to school and all is good for about another three days. Then it stalls on her three times in less than a mile. So now I had her get a ride home with a friend and we later went and picked it up. this time I drove it home. It tried to stall once at a light a few miles down the road, but i shifted to neutral and gave it a little rev and it was good. Thirty miles down the road on a curved bridge the car quits... I then quickly put it in neutral and it started and everything was fine. I replaced the fuel filter after that incident and everything was fine for about a week. Then we go to church on easter and cant come home because the car wont start. I tried starting it two days in a row and nothing. I tried the key ON 10min thing and nothing. Then we went back last night and I remembered reading that someone could turn their interior light on and it would start. Well it did. Whats up?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    What's up is there is something wrong with your car, and you should take it to a competent mechanic to get it fixed. Your problem is not the Security Passlock system, so please don't blame it on that system.
    This is a typical problem with ALL cars, and is usually caused by contaminated gasoline, which in turn, can foul plugs, clog up injectors, and cause intermittent starting.
    This problem could also be caused by a loose connector on the ignition switch, which would also cause all the symptoms that you described.
    If your problem was caused by the Security Passlock System, the Security light would come on, and it would blink and not allow you to start the car.
  • markjr54markjr54 Member Posts: 7
    i swapped out the bcm and it does about the same thing. sent the pcm to mp racing today and hopefully it will work, but i'm not counting on it .
    by the way, i called the dealership again to ask them if they could reprogram the pcm by itself .they said it has to be in the car when they do it. if that is so, how do other people like mp do it and send it to you?

    have a nice day.

    markjr54
  • flashbac35flashbac35 Member Posts: 1
    the security lite comes on and stays on, ing.switch was changed due to loss of key.I bought the car after the fact and have not found a way to bypass any Ideas I have done the relearn and no progress fuel pump runs need help thanks
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    This sounds like a problem for the dealer to solve. When the security light is on solid, that indicates that the security system is bypassed, and the car should start. There must be something else wrong.
    Fundamental troubleshooting 101
    For the car to run, you need fuel, ignition, compression, and proper timing. Check to see if you are getting fuel delivered. Check to see if you have spark. Check your compression. If you have all of these, the only other thing left is timing, which is unlikely if you have compression.
    By the way, did the relearn turn your Security light off?
    Dick
  • malbolsmalbols Member Posts: 19
    Hi all - me again . First a little history (2002 Grand Am)
    Problems started several months ago . I took the car thru a car wash - the next day , no start . Did the reset and got it going again. Started having to do the reset thing again every few days until i found this forum . I checked the BCM - all looked good . Tried the resistor fix - didn't work . Finally i cut the yellow wire and things were fine (although the security light stayed on) . Several weeks ago I took the car thru a car wash again - next day we lost our daytime running lights (i think at that time the service vehicle light had come on too). Days later the light was off and the running lights were back on . all has been good since then , until today . We've been getting a lot of rain over the last few days . My wife started the car this morning but the clock had reset .She reset the clock went out to eat .When she went to start the car ( raining all day) the clock had rdefaulted back to12:00 again . She went visiting and when she was done tried starting the car , but completely dead . The car is at her friends now . My game plan , for now is to wait until tomorrow - turn on my toggle switch - do the reset and hopefully it'll start . Anyway it's not looking like a Passlock issue now , from what i've read here it should be the BCM . (moisture issue ?) Thoughts anyone ? If you think it's my BCM - what is the best approach ? Is the BCM junk now or is there a way to seal it or something ? Is there a test for this ? Should the dealer do the replacing ? etc etc. Thanks in advance .
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    Humidity has been a reported aggravating factor for this matter -- Pontiacs apparently are subject to corrosion difficulties re their electrical systems. In addition to the PassLock feature, I've had some on-again, off-again problems with connections to my blower. You may need to test the entire electrical path to insure you have good connections and no broken wires. You will need an electrical meter or continuity tester to do this (not all wire breaks are obvious). The clock reset sounds like you may have a battery problem. Be certain you do not have insulating deposits on the battery posts. If you lose continuity to the battery, PassLock can rearm, cut wire or no, and then you have to turn the toggle back on to reset while running.
  • malbolsmalbols Member Posts: 19
    the battery is new . thanks
  • rmhcowboyrmhcowboy Member Posts: 2
    HI
    I have a 2001 Pont Grand AM SE1 and have done everthing I know to get the lockout off of my radio.. I have tried to unhook the batt for an hour and then pushing buttons 2 and 3 for about 10 sec.. nothing.. then I tried it again pushing buttons 1 and 4 thats what the owners manual says.. Then I just did the same thing but just let the ingnition stay on for an hour.. and did the same thing as I did when I unhooked the Batt. Welp.. I called GM and talked to about three people and all said... in so many words......your problem not ours.......what a great idea GM had running everthing thru the radio wires.......lol
    If anyone knows how I can bypass this or another way of fixing it rather than taking it to a dealer and them putting it on a machine to get some codes.. let me know
    Email me at RMHCowboy@aol.com
    Thank you................
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    I believe that you must take your vehicle to a dealer and have him attach his scanner device to the data buss and reset your radio. Two things you might want to do while you are there.
    1. if you have any remote keyless entry fobs that aren't programmed to operate your vehicle, bring all of them in with you, and have your pontiac programmed to respond to them all. This may include keyless fobs from your other GM cars.
    2. Go to a chevy dealer instead of a Pontiac dealer. They generally charge less to attach and run the diagnostic instrument. My chevy dealer charges $25.00, and my Pontiac dealer charges $40.00. That's a difference of 6 tall latte's at my local coffee shop.
    Dick.
  • originalmrmikeoriginalmrmike Member Posts: 2
    I found this on another site that seems to cover some of the issues that some of you are having.

    You have the PASSLOCK also known as MRD to locksmiths as anti-theft system. The security light is telling you there is a malfunction in the system.
    The use of different keys means nothing becuse the security is built into the lock/ housing portion. The ignition key for this vehicle does not have a chip in it and a duplicate key can be made at a hardware store.
    The way this system works is the vehicle's computer has to see the rotation of the ignition lock and the computer is not seeing this in your instance.
    This system has a magnetic field in the ignition housing as it relates to the lock. If the lock is forced from the housing the field is broken and the engine will not start.
    What I have seen to be a common problem over time is that ignition lock lubricatant sprayed on the outside of the lock and into the housing eventually making it so the vehicle's computer can not see you rotating the ignition to ON. The correction would be; have a locksmith remove the ignition lock and clean the body of the lock and inside the housing. Reinstall and that seems to fix the problem in many cases.
    If this is not the problem, you will need to take it into the dealer to scan for codes.

    Good Luck!
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Thank you, originalmrmike. I'm sure many of the readers of this thread do not know this fact, even though it was mentioned early on in the forum. Actually, some of the readers, especially those who are having passlock problems with Chevrolet vehicles may have the system where the chip is embedded in the key, but the system works very similarly for those systems... In one case, the switch in the ignition cylinder closes a hall-effect switch when the cylinder is rotated, and in the other, the switch is closed by the electronics detecting the correct chip in the key. In both cases, though, the BCM measures an analog voltage to determine pass or fail, and this seems to be the weak point of the system. Any variation in the impedance of the switch is liable to place the analog signal outside the correct range, and cause a false alarm. Then the BCM learns the new analog value, and when the cause of the variation goes away, the problem returns.
    It's funny that in these later posts, there are many instances of the Security light being on SOLID, which indicates that the Security system has malfunctioned, and is being bypassed, and even though the owner goes through the 10 minute relearn cycle, the Security light does not get reset, but the car does run. This seems to indicate that as time goes by, the BCM's are failing, but there is no conclusive evidence that this is what is happening.
    Good luck to all.
    Dick
  • grandamvictimgrandamvictim Member Posts: 1
    I also followed you procedures however my security light stayed on and the BCM never reset. I took the BCM out, looked inside and unfortunately the computer board has corrosion and is toast. Since I have already done the bypass, can I buy a used BCM at a salvage yard, install it and have that actually work? Considerably less cost from the salvage yard. They are quoting me about $75.00.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Buying a used BCM and installing it should work, but you may need to get a dealer to set it up for you with their special scan tool. For certain, you will have to do the 10 minute reset again. I'm not sure of what else might have to be done. Since the BCM controls the security system, the dealer will probably have to program it to recognize your radio, because the radios are locked out when transferred from car to car, As stated previously, this will probably up your cost by $25 or more to have the dealer connect their equipment and sync everything up. (Check out Post 506 and 560) I'm just making assumptions here from the previous posts. The best way to know for sure is to get hold of a service manual and read the section on replacing the BCM. (See post 504)
  • daviejamesdaviejames Member Posts: 1
    Ok so I have a 98 grand am and out of the blue my anitheft light came on. i followed directions to reset waited ten mins. the blinking stopped and the light turned solid. i then went to restart the car and all that happens is my cars dash lights air bag, abs, battery etc. start to rapidly blink and the car makes sounds then i take the key from on and it makes a loud "clink" sound... did i run the battery dead resetting the theft system? or is it something else?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    The sysptoms sound like a low battery. The clicking is probably your starter solenoid. When it engages, it loads your battery down. Your battery then doesn't have enough juice to hold the solenoid engaged, so the solenoid disengages. The battery then recovers, the solenoid then re-engages, and the whole cycle repeats in rapid succession.
    You have fallen victim to the most aggrivating thing about GM cars..... DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS!!! While you were resetting your anti-theft system, your headlights were on.
    Try charging the battery, or using jumper cables.
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    I agree; however, it also is possible that one of your battery posts has built up deposits which impede the flow of electricity and eventually break the circuit. Clean both posts carefully with a wire brush, then try to start or jump the car before spending anything on a new battery. And no, this is not a peculiar fault of GM cars -- the last car to do that to me was a good old AMC Ambassador.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Good suggestion about the Battery posts, and good advise about troubleshooting connections before buying a new battery. I was assuming that the car probably started ok the previous time, and the 10-12 minute wait with the headlights on was what ran the battery down. Of course, that probably wouldn't happen with a newer battery, but jump-starting is definitely the first thing to try before getting out the wallet.

    By the way, My stick shift Grand Am can be pushed to start when the battery is low. hehehe.
  • hpowell077hpowell077 Member Posts: 4
    I AM ALSO HAVING THIS PASSLOCK/SECURITY PROBLEM WITH MY 2001 PONTIAC GRAND AM. I JUST PURCHASED THE CAR ABOUT 6 MONTHS AGO. YOU CAN IMAGINE MY SURPRISE WHEN I FOUND THIS LINK. I AM SICKENED BY THE DISREGARD PONTIAC HAS FOR ITS CUSTOMERS. FROM WHAT I CAN TELL HUNDREDS OF OWNERS HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM. I JUST SENT PONTIAC AN EMAIL EXPLAINING THE SITUATION. I WOULD MAKE MORE OF AN IMPACT IF EVERYONE ELSE COULD DO THIS AS WELL. LET PONTIAC KNOW WE WILL NOT STAY QUITE. THEIR LINK IS POSTED BELOW.

    http://www.pontiac.com/showContactUsEmail.do

    FYI: I also seen a posting related to the hazard light/turn signal constantly clicking. This is another defect for the grand am but they have issued a recall for this. You can take your car to any Pontiac Dealer and they will replace the switch for you, so I've been told. If anyone knows if they actually honor this, please let me know.
  • hpowell077hpowell077 Member Posts: 4
  • hpowell077hpowell077 Member Posts: 4
    Here's a little background info about my 2001 Pontaic Grand Am. I bought the car about 6 months ago. Previous owner said he had just put a new fuel pump in it. It ran great for about 2 months. Went out to start the car one morning and nothing. It was turning over but seemed like it wasn't getting any gas. Talked to mechanic friend. He said previous owner probably put a bad fuel pump in it. Replaced the fuel pump. Ran good for another 2 months. Went to leave work and wouldn't start again. Same problem. I had it towed to my house. It started right up later that night. Ran for about 2 weeks. Broke down again. Had it towed, again. This time I took it to a shop. They said it was most likely the fuel pump acting up. They hooked it up to the diagnostics machine and everything was fine. Didn't want to take any chances so I replaced the fuel pump again. Broke down again. I started researching this problem to see if maybe their was a recall on fuel pump, lines, injectors, etc. I finally come across this blog. I tried resetting the system by leaving it on for 10 minutes. Works. My security light stays on all the time now. When it is flashing I know it is time to reset the car. This is very annoying. Has anyone had any luck in completely fixing the problem yet?
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    Well, to start, you're late to the party. A couple of solutions have been posted here, both bypassing the security system and each costing less than $10 and about half an hour of your time. Don't take this to a dealer -- he won't allow it to be fixed this way, and you'll end up paying about $600.

    All of the ways of making Pontiac more responsive were discussed early on. I said before and will say again that I think they were under pressure from the insurance companies, which are far better equipped to threaten the company with harassment lawsuits than we are. Given that Pontiac is not long for the world anyway, it is unlikely anything you do will change the company's attitude.

    That said, I have to agree with a few others that, for the most part, my Grand Am has been very reliable. It's a '97, has 80,000 miles on it, and aside from a bad water pump it had when I bought it 50,000 miles ago, a major tune-up at 70,000 miles, and this, it has given me no problems. The air conditioner is bad, which in South Florida in the summer can be hellish, but it would cost more than $1,000 to fix, so I've chosen to roll down the windows and sweat. I'm still pulling 35-37 mpgs out of it, and that was heaven a year ago -- hybrids aren't actually getting that. I find a lot of the disaffection here is from people whose real gripe is with a service station or whatever whose mechanic did not know how to fix the problem or what was wrong. Your situation is a case in point -- it must have been expensive to put in three perfectly good fuel pumps and tow the car two or three times, all for nothing. But, it is not Pontiac's fault that some garage mechanic does not know how to fix the car. It apparently is true that some of the garage mechanics work for Pontiac -- we've had a few complaints against dealerships appear here -- and Pontiac should do something about that. The company also would develop more customer loyalty if it did not insist on dealers requiring $600 repairs when a $10 repair works and the attendant risk is minimal. I can understand why the company is hesitant to allow anyone to bypass an anti-theft system, especially if it is being sharked by an even more greedy insurance company. But, in my case, it is absurd to think anyone in South Florida is going to go to very much trouble to steal a twelve-year old Grand Am without air conditioning when, for a little more effort, they can have a much newer Cadillac, Lexus, or BMW and drive away in cool comfort.

    It would be nice if we could impress the company with that.
  • hpowell077hpowell077 Member Posts: 4
    Yeah. I know I'm about 2 years late. I just wish I would have know before I bought the car. I probably wouldn't have. I've seen a lot of good suggestions but everything sounds like a temporary fix. I did find one link after reading though all 500 or so posts that I'm going to try out. Hopefully it fixes the problem.

    I guess my big thing is nobody knowing about the problem. I took this to 3 seperate garages, one being a Pontiac dealer, and no one had a clue what to do. They said they could just start trouble shooting but that could cost me tons when it was over and done with. Five minutes on the internet and I knew exactly what it was and possibly how to fix it.

    Well I guess they suceeded with the Anti-Theft System. There's a 50/50 chance the car won't even start if someone does try to steal it. :)
  • smeekssmeeks Member Posts: 2
    Of course a gm service tech has worked on my car...and actually so far have replaced 2 fuel pumps, did a complete tune up, crank sensor was checked, checked starter alternator and battery, replaced sensor in ignition, and bcm...btw when they got the new bcm in for it the guy who was programming it screwed up and locked the thing up and gave it to me with no lights ect working...when i took it back to them they admitted that the person they had programming my bcm didnt know what they were doing and offered to give me a loaner and keep my car 2 more days till they could get it re-fixed...i said thanks but no thanks just put the old bcm back in - and after all that the head service tech still didnt know how to reset it so i had to show him how to leave the key on 10 min to reset it...isnt that a load of crap....so yeah im just as qualified as that...at least i can get it to run part of the time...from now on ill trust my own or a well known mechanic in town and save myself the bull....
  • smeekssmeeks Member Posts: 2
    to make a long story shorter, heres my main problem...i have had car to countless mechanics, tow shops, other owners, and yes the dealer as well...no one can fix it and dealer wont admit it...lol as if no else has had these problems :)...have replaced 1/2 the car basically short of changing the wiring harness or ripping out/ disabling the passlock system....as i have replaced / tested (multiple times on some parts) everything else it could possibly be plus a few others I am inclined to feel that the gm passlock system is a load of crap and needs replaced...

    My question is this...does anyone know for sure that installing a remote start system with a security bypass module will stop the passlock from being a royal pain....i am soooo tired of replacing parts and setting for 10 min to reset..(its been 2yrs)...pls help....i plan on doing this anyways this summer so if no one answers i will let u know how it goes...
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Smeeks,
    We don't have enough information to tell you what is wrong. So here goes.
    1. When the car won't start, is the "SECURITY" light flashing?
    2. After you do the 10-12 minute relearn process, does the "SECURITY" light go out?
    3. Has your "SECURITY" light ever come on solid and stayed on after the vehicle has been running for at least a minute or so?

    You can probably find the solution to your problem in one of the following messages in this thread:
    #21-23
    #50 (be sure to click on the links and view the pictures)
    #209
    #213
    #394
    (follow the link marked "Grand Am Passlock Security Fix")
    #504
    #506
    #560


    There are descriptions of many people's problems in many of the other posts, but if you read just these few messages, and read them thoroughly, you will have the answer to all but 0.01% of the Passlock problems.

    And then, there is my usual suggestion:
    Get a genuine Service Manualfor your particular vehicle
    My suggestion is to get an Online Manual from the following source:
    ALLDATADIY
  • whit27whit27 Member Posts: 1
    No it will not. I have remote start and still have passslock failures. I'm going to use the bypass info and go that route. Important note though....I have an Olds alero 01, and had to replace heater/AC blower. The "brain" box on this car was right in front of the blower ara on pass. side. I recall having to move it out of my way, which made me think to look there first for a connection I may have knocked loose. Unfortunately they were not loose and I am going to have to bypass the box. DO NOT go looking in a junk yard for this box as this is a problem with a ton of GM cars, and you may just have it happen again after buying a salvage one.
  • weavtechweavtech Member Posts: 1
    I replaced the starter in my 97 Grand Am and now I can't get the key to unlock. Anyone have any ideas?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    You might try posting your question in one of the forums devoted to ignition switches, or starters. This one is devoted to the passlock security issue.
  • waterman19waterman19 Member Posts: 4
    I am having problems with my Passlock system on my 2002 Grand Am. I keep tryin the 10-15 minute reset but I can't get it to work?? 95% of the time my security light does not come on but it has a few times and even when it does I can wait 30 minutes with the key on and the security light still won't go off?? I took it to a local shop and they said they reset it but they said the security light never came on for them when they reset it? When I do get it to start it will start pretty much start all day then sets all night and won't start again the next day for about 5 - 7 hours. I guess what i need help with is the 10-15 minute reset because no matter if my security light is on or not I can't get it to work and the car still won't start?? Please advise and thanks in advance for any help?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Your symptoms strongly indicate that your problem is with the Hall Effect sensor in your ignition switch, and probably the best solution for you is to bypass the hall effect sensor with a resistor, reset the system, and you will then be rid of your problem.

    You did mention that you sometimes wait 30 minutes and the security light still does not go off. Are you doing the procedure exaxtly as explained in the owner's manual? You must follow the sequence exactly in order to get the system to reset. Here is what it says in my owner's manual:

    "If the SECURITY light flashes or stays on, turn the ignition off. Turn the ignition back ON, and wait 10 minutes with the key in ON until the light goes off. Then turn the ignition to OFF before attempting to start the engine again."

    See Post #599 for a link to how to bypass the security system.
  • waterman19waterman19 Member Posts: 4
    First thanks for the reply. Does the car have to start before I can put the resistor in? Also where can I purchase a resistor?
    Yes I have tried several times doing the procedure as mentioned in the manual but I left in on before almost 30 minutes to see if the security light would even go off and it didn't. Also what if I had the ignition replaced would this help?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    1. If your security light is on solid, you probably can start the car. In this case, there may be one of two problems. A: the hall sensor in the ignition switch is defective, or B: there is a problem in your Body Control Module. If the problem is the hall sensor, you can bypass it using the resistor, then do the 10-12 minute reset, and the security light should go out.
    If the car does not start, and the security light begins FLASHING, and the reset procedure makes the light go out, then bypassing the system with the resistor will definitely solve your problem.
    In either case, you don't have to have the car running to perform the resistor bypass. Actually, you should have the battery disconnected while you do the bypass.
    If your security light stays on solid, and your car starts, it is unlikely that replacing the ignition switch will solve your problem. It is probably being caused by faulty wiring, or the Body Control Module.
    Dick
  • nomoregrandamsnomoregrandams Member Posts: 1
    I drive a 2000 GM and began having the starting problem 3 years ago. Sitting and waiting the required 10 minutes always results in it starting and we rely strictly on the remote starter to avoid the aggravation. Now the dilemma is we want to sell the car and don't want to saddle someone with this problem so investigated the internet only to find a whole world exists of GM owners who all have the same problem.....hahah...misery LOVES company right?

    Anyways, after reading just about all the posts, it seems that cutting theyellow wire while the car is running results in good outcomes although explaining why the sercurity light is always on may scare away potential buyers.

    So what would the experienced GM owners suggest: going to a Pontiac dealer with info in hand that this is an inherent problem of this car and insist on them fixing it or chopping the wire and hoping for the best?

    And this isn't the only repeat problem we have had with this car but certainly the most irritating....wouldn't buy another Pontiac even if they WERE a viable company right now..... :mad: :mad:
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Look at post # 599. Replacing the Hall effect sensor (that sounds like your problem) with a resistor will bypass it and the security light will stay off. I doubt if you will find any dealer to cut any wires, it's not an approved repair, but then again installing the resisitor isn't either, so your probably on your own, more or less.
    How was the remote start added? As an aftermarket device? Did the no start problem begin at about the same time?
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    I'm not sure I understand how your remote start system bypasses the problem. Most of the people in this forum who have installed remote start systems have had success because the security light never comes on once the remote start is installed. The reason..... installing a remote start system accomplishes the same thing as installing the resistor bypass. If your remote starter does not operate this way, then I would suggest you have the remote start removed before you do the Resistor fix.

    Substituting the resistor into the circuit in place of the ignition switch module is the preferred way to solve the problem, because it guarantees that you will never be troubled with a no-start situation because of a faulty ignition module, A N D.... The Security light will never come on again because of a faulty ignition module. I would not, however, try to do the resistor mod with a remote start system installed. Who knows what kind of hacking was done by the mall shop who installed the remote starter.

    All that said, if you aren't comfortable doing wiring, soldering, and the like, Go to Post #599, and then print out all the posts mentioned on that page, including the pictures that show how to remove the Grand Am. radio and find the correct wires. Take them to a LOCAL computer shop, or any shop that does electronic work, and ask the technician to do the mod for you. He should be able to do it for less than $100.00, which is a far cry from the amount most people in this forum have had to pay at a dealer. If he can't do it for you, he will probably know someone who can. If not, shop around. I was able to do it myself, but then, I worked in an electronics testing facility at GM.

    Last of all, there is no substitute for a Service Manual, and the ones that GM publishes are the most complete of any car company in the world. They may not make the best vehicles, but they sure can tell you how to fix them. (The mechanics at the dealerships should read them.)
    Dick
  • richard110richard110 Member Posts: 2
    im having the same problem with my car i took the radio off what does this yellow wire look like please help and where is it located at
  • richard110richard110 Member Posts: 2
    where is this yellow wire at im having the same problem with my grand am the security light is on the car turns over but it wont start is it on the ignition switch or please help
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Go to Message #50 in this thread. Look at the pictures (links at the bottom of the message) You will see a small bundle containing 3 wires. Remove the tape wrapping from that bundle. One of them is yellow.
    Dick
  • waterman19waterman19 Member Posts: 4
    In post #603 I reported the problems with my car. I took out the radio and found the wires everyone is talking about and it already has a resistor on it. Well when I was untaping the resistor the wire on the the resistor broke right against the resistor so there is no room to connect wire to it again. So I put a new resistor on it and did the 10 minute reset. The car started all day but once it set overnight the next day it won't start again? Is this only because I didn't solder the resistor in yet? I wanted to make sure it was going to work before I did any soldering? Please advise??
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Assuming that the car didn't start the next day AND the Security light was blinking again, then YES, you need to solder the new resistor in place. Make sure you make a good connection, not a cold solder joint.
    If the Security light was not blinking the next day, then there is something else wrong as well, but you will still have to solder the resistor in place, or you will have the same intermittent problem as before, only instead of being caused by a bad hall-effect switch, it will be caused by an intermittent resistor connection.
  • waterman19waterman19 Member Posts: 4
    Ok my car has a keyless start sytem. So how can I unhook it? I think it is causing my passlock problems??
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