drhrejsa, There are a number of things which could be wrong with your car. For a car to run, you must have three things: The proper amount of fuel must be delivered to the cylinders There must be compression There must be spark
These are the basics. If too much fuel is delivered to the cylinders, the car will flood. This could be your problem. Sometimes, when a car sits overnight, and certain conditions exist, there will be too much fuel in the intake, and the engine will not start until the excess fuel is cleared. That may be what is happening in your case. After trying for a long time, the excess fuel is finally driven out of the cylinders by the constant cranking, and finally, the engine is no longer flooded, and it will start.
If there is not sufficient compression, your engine will not start. This could also be the problem you are having. Constantly turning the engine over with the starter may be warming the cylinders enough to make them finally fire up the fuel, even when the compression is low.
If the ignition system does not deliver a high enough intensity spark, this could also cause the vehicle not to start. Again, as the engine gets a bit warmer from turning it over for a prolonged time, this may be overcome.
These are my recommendations. * Check the compression of all your cylinders. I don't know how to do this, but any competent mechanic should be able to do it. A quick check is to listen to your engine as you try to turn it over. If it seems to be turning over very fast, but does not fire up, this could be a sign of low compression. The only way you would know if it is turning over very fast is if you were to compare it to a similar car that starts correctly. * Make sure you are getting good spark to all cylinders. Again, any good mechanic should know how to do this. This isn't that easy to do on the V-6 engines, since they are so crammed into the engine compartment that it is difficult to get to the spark plugs. * Make sure that fuel is being delivered to the cylinders. You will need a shop manual for your vehicle to determine how to do this, but I understand that there is a valve somewhere on the fuel rail where you can check for proper fuel pressure. See my post #599 in this thread for a link to where to purchase a shop manual.
I am afraid that you really do need a mechanic to repair your vehicle. It is sad that you have had your car to mechanics who are not willing to diagnose your problem and perform the correct maintenance and repairs.
My 2003 V6 Grand Am has been having some small problems lately ( the wipers stop working mid swipe and the clock resets itself to 12 regularly). The past few days its been hesitating when I go to start it and today It would not start at all. No trying to start and failing - nothing happened when I turned the key. No radio, heat - NOTHING.. I had it jumped and it started right away and then checked the battery and it said that it is fine. I took it to autozone to have them check that battery, prepaired to buy a new one but they said it's fine too.. After jumping my car it starts fine, but I'm not convinced that there is no problem at all with the car. The alternator is working (we disconnected the battery after it started and it ran fine). And the car runs fine after a jump. Any ideas before I go drop a mess of cash for a problem that will most likely resurface in a few months...
This is not a Passlock Security issue. You may have more luck if you search for a thread concerning Starting issues.
But to address your problem anyway, You should probably disconnect your battery cables from the battery, make sure he terminals are ABSOLUTELY clean, and that the contact points on your battery also are clean and bright. Then re-connect your battery terminals, making sure they are secure. If you can get to the other ends of the battery cables, you might want to do the same there. Once you are sure your battery cables are secure on both ends, start the vehicle and let it run for 10 seconds or so, then shut it off. Do that about 20 times, letting it sit at least an hour between starts. If you don't have any problems, you probably will have enough confidence in the car to take it out of your driveway.
Good Luck The Passlock Security [non-permissible content removed]
ok so i followed the advice from http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm worked wonderfully. car starts every time. now my question is, now my Security light is on all the time. is there a relearn procedure i can preform for light to go off? or am i stuck with it on?
If you followed the modifications exactly as described on the website, your security light should be off, and never go on again. The light being on all the time is an indication that the resistor you soldered into the circuit is not connected. There is an open circuit in your wiring. Either you soldered the resistor in to the wrong side of the yellow wire, you broke the resistor, or in some other manner, the circuit became open. To troubleshoot, do the following:
Remove the middle connector from the BCM. Measure the resistance between Pins A6 and B6. The resistance should be the same as the resistor you soldered in place. If it isn't, there is an error in your installation, or there is an open or short in your wiring.
Re-read the page on the web site thoroughly, and you will see that when the light is on solid, it means that your circuitry is bad.
Appreciate your attempt to provide an explanation to the three in one oil positive results in solving my passlok starting problem. All I know is..... it continues to work after 12 months. It saved me from buyig a new car to avoid the issue.of waiting 10 minutes almost every time I started my car.....Ja
I recently updated my web blog about the Passlock Security System on Pontiac Grand Am and other GM vehicles. This blog describes in detail how to solve issues with the Passlock II system on GM cars. It also contains all the posts in this thread which have valuable information about GM's Passlock system. If you are having any Passlock problems, I suggest you go to my web page and read it thoroughly. Here is a link to it. Grand Am Passlock Security System Repair
I'd just like to say thanks for all your help. I followed your instructions on your website, step by step to fix my 2000 Oldsmobile Alero. So far, after two weeks, I have had no problems with the Security light coming on or the car starting (knock on wood!).
To anyone who suspects their passlock problem can be fixed with Mr. Berger's method, I suggest you try it (at your own risk, mind you). I had never soldered before, but quickly picked it up after watching several Youtube videos. Mr. Berger's pictures and guide are extremely helpful. Again, proceed at your own risk and mechanical know-how.
The Passlock' thing, just happened to me this morning!!!!! I WISH I FOUND THIS WEBSITE before...instead i called my mechanic who came towed the car and fixid, he then told me he had to call someone else to fix the passlock thing but he already told it was something to with it when he towed the car. I can't believe how stupid i was withtout checking the Manual and do the 10 seconds' thing to make the car start again. Honestly i can't tell you if the car was doing any noise in the past days...a tlinking or stuff like that since it makes a lot of noise. My GrandAm is a 1997 with 130,000 miles and i can tell you that it runs fine!! Anyway tonight i picked up the car... my mechanic which i have always considered honest,at least with me, charged me $ 300 ... towing included and the problem seems fixed. I hope so. What do you think???
What do I think? Take a look at your work order. If he replaced the Ignition switch, he probably fixed your problem correctly, and you got by a lot cheaper than going to a dealer. If he didn't replace the ignition switch, check to see what he actually did, and see if it makes sense. Remember, Passlock problems are caused by either: 1. Ignition Switch 2. Wiring & connectors 3. Body Control Module Doing the 10 minute reset is not worth $300. Why? Because it only takes 10 seconds to turn the ignition on, and 15 seconds to check to see if it worked 15 minutes later.... Total repair time - less than 30 seconds.
This is only the 2nd time this has happened, but thankfully we came to this site before calling the insurance for towing like we did the last time! We tried #28 where we put the key on the "on" position and waited until the Security light quit blinking. The car didn't turn over, so we went to Plan B: #695 where we oiled the key and IT WORKED!! THANK YOU for sharing your experiences with this apparently-widespread problem.
You must not have followed the instructions correctly for the first choice. Did you do this?
"After attempting to start the engine, if the SECURITY light flashes or stays on, wait ten minutes with the key in ON until the light goes off. Then turn the ignition to OFF before attempting to start the engine again."
Note that You must turn the ignition to OFF before attempting to start the engine again.
Also, What kind of car do you have? Is it one that uses a special key? (look at the side of your key, just below the black plastic "handle". If there is a "+" stamped on the side of the key, then you have a different kind of Passlock system.) Please post back and let us know, as all of us would like to know why 3-in-1 oil on the key works.
We tried EVERY suggestion on these posts except cutting wires. The only thing that has worked is the 3-1 oil on the key and in the ignition. Othewise it was turn off the key, get out of the car, wait at least 15 minutes. Then it would start. We did the oil about 2 months ago and it hasn't happened again. And it was getting to the point where it happened every single time my husband tried to start it. SO, thanks for the hint. I suggest anyone with the problem give it a try.
Mcleff, Was this your solution on your 2003 Saturn? If so, can you please post back here and tell us if you have one of the keys that has the resistor embedded in the key, or one that has the chip in the key. You should be able to tell by looking at your key. It will have a "+" stamped on the side of the key. Please post back.
I also was having the same problem.Just as an after thought I changed ignition keys & the problem went away.I'm sure others have tried this but it worked for me.
Hi folks... wow, I've been absent for ages! But I'm ok and still here; just dealing with some medical issues. A special hello to lovemygrandam as he has assisted me late last year with my 2000GT1.
An update... My car STILL HAS the security light constantly illuminated steady, but continues to start fine and run fine for me for the last 12 months. I even passed the Massachusetts yearly car insoection with that light on, as it doesn't throw any trouble codes. So my light is still on, and my car runs fine... I'm happy, but sure wish that mod would have worked for me; darn it...
As I mentioned many months ago, my Pontiac dealer installed a new cylinder and cut me new keys.. My steady light seemed to start after the new cylinder was put in. Prior to that cylinder, I would have to do the 10 minute wait process.... that's why I had the new cylinder put in.
I am still wondering if the mechanic might have jostled a wire somewhere. I was hoping to check that out but have been in some back pain and still haven't done that yet...
So my light burns brightly; oh joy !!! But the car runs fine, lol. I have a ton of catching up to do on this long thread. But I'm still here folks... just been down in the dumps a bit.
Take care all; I'll start reading this long thread (if I can find where on earth I left off many many months ago).
I would like to ask those of you who have managed to solve the Passlock Problem on your vehicles, to PLEASE... When you post the solution, include in your post the Year, Make, and Model of your vehicle. It would also be helpful if you tell us whether your key has a "+" stamped on the side of the shaft just below the plastic handle. This will help us to determine whether you are dealing with Passlock I, Passlock II, or some other form of passlock system. GM used three systems, and the solution to problems with each one is different. Post 695 states that using 3 in 1 oil on your key could cure the problem. I'm sure that this works on some vehicles, because some use a resistor embedded in the key, with tiny electrical contacts that must connect when inserting the key. If these get dirty, 3-in-1 oil can clean them and make them work again. With the systems that work with a hall-effect switch and a magnet in the lock cylinder, it's also possible that getting enough 3-in-1 oil into the lock cylinder may wash away metal filings that accumulate near the magnet, thus making that system work again. So my suggestion is Please include your car's make, year, and model when posting
i was having problems with my 02 grand am it has just a normal key security system so i changed the ignition switch because the car would not start so i was wanting to know how do i reset the system with out taking it to the dealer i tried the 10min reset did not work and besides spending more money at the dealer maybe you can help thank you dwebb4
when the ten min wait the light goes out but it still dont start the engine does not even crank over i even put a remote starter switch on the starter and that cranked it over for a while then it stopped i havent tryed it for a week maybe there is something that i missed
I have tried the reset with the key in the ignition for 10-15 minutes. And the light went off and car still won't start so i let sit again. and tried again it took less time to reset but then still car doesn't start. I checked voltage on the battery it is good. But the lights seem to be very dim. And when the fuel pump kicks in it sounds very week compared to this morning. And yes I have had the security light on. I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am GT
I just ended up having it towed to the shop, And I had checked the voltage at about 15 volts at the battery i didn't check it though with the engine cranking.
My girlfriend has a 00 grand am and it likes to stall out while driving. it also wasnt starting. i replaced the ignition switch and it was fine for a while it only does it on the highway
Well I wrote in here about 2 months ago. I had a problem with the passlock and the engine would crank 3 times and car would start but the would shut itself down immediately. I ended up bringing my car ( 1997 PONTIAC GRAND AM SE) to my mechanic who told me the problem was the passlock so he fixed, he had to call some other guy by the way, and back then i paid around $ 150.00. Yesterday, Sunday Dec 13 I was about to leave home to go to do some errands...sit in the car...and the same exact problem comes up again. THE CAR WOULD NOT START. So I though about what Lovemygrandam said....and I put my self to work. I thought about bringing the car back to the mechanich but i was kind of afraid that would ask me for some more money(labour and towing)...and right now...being laid off...i can not affort that luxury. So this morning I waited for the 10 minutes with the key in the ON position till i was able to start the car , when the enging started....WITH THE CAR STILL RUNNING...(obviously before that i took out the housing of the steering wheel so that i was able to reach that damn yellow wire without any problem). I cut the yellow wire...even if i noticed that the old owner already did some work probably changing the keylock or something!!! IT WORKS.....the passlock light WILL COME ON....and IT WORKS. I also bought the mini toggle switch ...hooked up the wires to the switcher...mounted on the Housing steering wheel ...it works. After the modification THE REMOTE STARTER WILL MAKE PASSLOCK SENSOR TO GO ON (with the yellow wire disconnected ) so i can not use the remote starter. I want to specify that becase seems like the car would start also normally...with the switcher ON.... this makes me think that it may be some more problem too maybe related to : 1) some wires touching eachother 2) corrosion 3) humidity. So far so good....only one day but it works....we will see what happens and my advice to others is USE A MINI TOGGLE SWITCHER...in this way you can always bring it back at the factory set up if accidentally battery power goes down or any other problem. Thanks to LOVEMYGRANDAM for his HUGE help given to all of us in order to fix this damn problem. http://bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
This does not sound like a Passlock problem. The passlock system will not cause the car to stall while driving. You more likely have an intermittent connection somewhere, or a clogged fuel filter,
Thanks a lot for the Kudos. Most remote start systems on Grand Am do some modifications to the yellow wire. If you have a remote start installed, there may have been wiring changes made that we did not forsee, so this fix may have rendered the Remote Start inoperative. If you know who installed the remote starter, you may be able to contact them to find out how to make it work again with the yellow wire cut. Worth a phonecall, I would say. Thanks again
I went to start my daughters car and the key would not turn. It is locked up tight. My husband bought a new ingnition lock and the guy at checker said we need codes to program it. We do not have a owners manual for the car and do not want to spend 200 dollars on a code finder that we are going to use one time. Any suggestions?
Turn the ignition to ACC and wait ten minutes to see if it will reset. This might not work, but it costs nothing to try. If it does not work, you can try doing the reset three times in a row at 10-20 minute intervals. Make sure your headlights are off during this time so you don't run down your battery.
i changed my ingnition and my car would not start ether so what idid is i put a remote stater switch on the stater and started the car and it worked but once i a while it pull a attitude with me so im going to wire a perament push button so i wount be stranded so try that it worked for me
I have the same problem as you all, however the 10 minute wait only worked one time on my car. Now the radio will come on when the key is on but the car will not start. I've tried for two days now. Also, I have NEVER seen a security light in my 2004 grand am so don't know if it flashes or not. ALso when I put the key in the on position to start the 10 minute wait my radio flashes CAL. Anyone have any ideas? :confuse:
This does not sound like the same problem. You should probably post your sysptoms in a forum concerning starting problems. If your "Security" light does not flash, you don't have a security system issue. Likely causes of not starting: Starter motor problem (if engine is not being cranked) No spark (Ignition problems) No fuel (fuel system problems) No compression (timing problems)
A service manual will give you troubleshooting instructions. Service manual =$27.50
You don't need codes to program your new ignition lock. You may have one of two problems if your key will not turn. The most likely problem is that your steering system is putting pressure on the steering lock mechanism, which in turn makes it impossible to turn the key. Try this. Put your key in the ignition and gently try to turn it, while at the same time, turning the steering wheel both to the left and to the right. This should release the steering lock, and in turn, allow the key to turn. If this does not work, then the next most likely problem is either an incorrect installation of the lock, or the new lock does not match the new key. I'm wondering, how did you get the vehicle home if you cannot turn the ignition switch to "ON"? Read post #599 if you think this is a "Passlock" problem.
I have the same ignition lock seizure problem as well. I have a 2005 grand am and its not a passlock issue. The problem lies within the key and lock cylinder itself. after time the bittings of the key will become worn and what used to be staight cuts and corners will be rounded and smooth. take a look at your key and look at a new key, you will see how worn yours might be. if the lock cylinder isnt worn too much then you can just get a new key made. i am still using my old key and every other time i go to start my car i have to jiggle the key carefully to find that sweet spot and it will turn. im sure if you play around with it you can find that spot that allows the key to turn.
Update: My girlfriends 00 grand am is junk!!! it does the same thing as before only now the security light does not come on nor does it flash im stumped the other night it stalled while driving and the ten min reset didnt work and i had to have the car towed what am i to do? :mad:
Here are a few checks you could make: 1. Get in the car. Watch the dash lights as you insert the key and turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position. The "SECURITY" light (and all the other warning lights) should come on for the first two seconds, and then go out. This is the warning system check. 2. The security system will not cause the vehicle to stall when you are driving.It only keeps the car from running when you first try to start it. If your vehicle stalls while running, then one of the following is happening: A. Your engine is losing compression (timing problems) B. Your engine is not getting spark. (ignition or electrical problems) C. Your engine is not getting fuel.
You have two choices: A. Have it fixed by a reliable mechanic. B. Get yourself a service manual and go through the troubleshooting procedures and repair it yourself.
Every vehicle on the road is subject to failure of one kind or another. They are complicated machines. A service manual is an absolute necessity if you are going to try to save money on repairs. Make the investment (around $30.00) You will not be disappointed.
As I stated earlier I was having the security-no start problem with my 01 grand am.I started using a different ignition key & the problem went away.That was 2 months ago & no problems yet.I haven't read of any one trying this fix but it is worth a try & it is cheap.
A service manual for your car would reveal that the key is NOT a part of the electronics of the security system, and will not cure the problem. The only purpose of the key is to enable you to turn the lock cylinder. When the cylinder is turned to the correct position, the hall-effect switch in the ignition lock activates the circuitry, allowing the Body Control Module to read the value of the resistor within the lock cylinder. The key is not part of this circuitry. Sometimes, the "Security" light comes on, and the 10 minute relearn will clear it up, and it won't happen again for a long time. This is probably the case with your vehicle.
I followed these instructions but it did not work. I know I cut the proper wire as my security light came on right away. I show no power in my car at all...the only way I can start my car is through a boost (I have to drive around with a porable battery booster). The battery is brand new so there are no issues there. It started when I was driving my security light came on and when I got home and turned off my car...no power. Car runs great once you boost it. Any ideas? Its a 2001 Grand AM 3.4L Auto
You probably have a bad connection between your battery and your battery cables. Remove the battery cables from the battery. Make sure the contacting surfaces are bright by cleaning them with a light abrasive, then connect them back to the battery. At this point you should be able to turn on your headlights. If not, and assuming your battery checks good, there is a fault in your battery cables. Your problem does not come from the security system..
Thank you!! I just assumed it was security related as I have had the security issues pop up every once in a while. I removed the battery cables, cleaned them, then re-attached. I had power instantly! I had to reconnect the security wire in order to start the car but everything works great now (and I disabled the security). Thanks again for your help!!
Your referring to the "pass key" system which is different from pass lock. It was used on older models. I believe the first pass lock equipped GA's where in 1999, when the newer N body was introduced.
I have seen alot of posts relating to GA's in the 1999-2003 range, but I seem to be having these problems with a 2005 GA, is there any difference in the Passlock system on the later model GA or would the resistor trick work as outlined in here? My car has a remote car starter installed and has been checked over by the shop that installed it to ensure it was not an error on their end, but the symptoms are identical to the outlined Passlock issues in this thread. Car will not start from time to time, place ignition key to on position for 10 minutes, starts and goes fine after that, the problem has gotten more frequent and I am looking for a solution, when this problem arises my remote start will not do it's thing and I have to go outside in my Northern Minnesota clime and deal with it. Any help would be great!
Comments
There are a number of things which could be wrong with your car. For a car to run, you must have three things:
The proper amount of fuel must be delivered to the cylinders
There must be compression
There must be spark
These are the basics. If too much fuel is delivered to the cylinders, the car will flood. This could be your problem. Sometimes, when a car sits overnight, and certain conditions exist, there will be too much fuel in the intake, and the engine will not start until the excess fuel is cleared. That may be what is happening in your case. After trying for a long time, the excess fuel is finally driven out of the cylinders by the constant cranking, and finally, the engine is no longer flooded, and it will start.
If there is not sufficient compression, your engine will not start. This could also be the problem you are having. Constantly turning the engine over with the starter may be warming the cylinders enough to make them finally fire up the fuel, even when the compression is low.
If the ignition system does not deliver a high enough intensity spark, this could also cause the vehicle not to start. Again, as the engine gets a bit warmer from turning it over for a prolonged time, this may be overcome.
These are my recommendations.
* Check the compression of all your cylinders. I don't know how to do this, but any competent mechanic should be able to do it. A quick check is to listen to your engine as you try to turn it over. If it seems to be turning over very fast, but does not fire up, this could be a sign of low compression. The only way you would know if it is turning over very fast is if you were to compare it to a similar car that starts correctly.
* Make sure you are getting good spark to all cylinders. Again, any good mechanic should know how to do this. This isn't that easy to do on the V-6 engines, since they are so crammed into the engine compartment that it is difficult to get to the spark plugs.
* Make sure that fuel is being delivered to the cylinders. You will need a shop manual for your vehicle to determine how to do this, but I understand that there is a valve somewhere on the fuel rail where you can check for proper fuel pressure. See my post #599 in this thread for a link to where to purchase a shop manual.
I am afraid that you really do need a mechanic to repair your vehicle. It is sad that you have had your car to mechanics who are not willing to diagnose your problem and perform the correct maintenance and repairs.
But to address your problem anyway, You should probably disconnect your battery cables from the battery, make sure he terminals are ABSOLUTELY clean, and that the contact points on your battery also are clean and bright. Then re-connect your battery terminals, making sure they are secure. If you can get to the other ends of the battery cables, you might want to do the same there. Once you are sure your battery cables are secure on both ends, start the vehicle and let it run for 10 seconds or so, then shut it off. Do that about 20 times, letting it sit at least an hour between starts. If you don't have any problems, you probably will have enough confidence in the car to take it out of your driveway.
Good Luck
The Passlock Security [non-permissible content removed]
Thanks in advance.
The light being on all the time is an indication that the resistor you soldered into the circuit is not connected. There is an open circuit in your wiring. Either you soldered the resistor in to the wrong side of the yellow wire, you broke the resistor, or in some other manner, the circuit became open. To troubleshoot, do the following:
Remove the middle connector from the BCM. Measure the resistance between Pins A6 and B6. The resistance should be the same as the resistor you soldered in place. If it isn't, there is an error in your installation, or there is an open or short in your wiring.
Re-read the page on the web site thoroughly, and you will see that when the light is on solid, it means that your circuitry is bad.
waiting 10 minutes almost every time I started my car.....Ja
Grand Am Passlock Security System Repair
I'd just like to say thanks for all your help. I followed your instructions on your website, step by step to fix my 2000 Oldsmobile Alero. So far, after two weeks, I have had no problems with the Security light coming on or the car starting (knock on wood!).
To anyone who suspects their passlock problem can be fixed with Mr. Berger's method, I suggest you try it (at your own risk, mind you). I had never soldered before, but quickly picked it up after watching several Youtube videos. Mr. Berger's pictures and guide are extremely helpful. Again, proceed at your own risk and mechanical know-how.
Thanks a ton!
-mizzOUstu702
I WISH I FOUND THIS WEBSITE before...instead i called my mechanic who came
towed the car and fixid, he then told me he had to call someone else to fix the passlock thing but he already told it was something to with it when he towed the car.
I can't believe how stupid i was withtout checking the Manual and do the 10 seconds' thing to make the car start again.
Honestly i can't tell you if the car was doing any noise in the past days...a tlinking or stuff like that since it makes a lot of noise.
My GrandAm is a 1997 with 130,000 miles and i can tell you that it runs fine!!
Anyway tonight i picked up the car... my mechanic which i have always considered honest,at least with me, charged me $ 300 ... towing included and the problem seems fixed. I hope so. What do you think???
Take a look at your work order. If he replaced the Ignition switch, he probably fixed your problem correctly, and you got by a lot cheaper than going to a dealer. If he didn't replace the ignition switch, check to see what he actually did, and see if it makes sense. Remember, Passlock problems are caused by either:
1. Ignition Switch
2. Wiring & connectors
3. Body Control Module
Doing the 10 minute reset is not worth $300. Why? Because it only takes 10 seconds to turn the ignition on, and 15 seconds to check to see if it worked 15 minutes later.... Total repair time - less than 30 seconds.
THANK YOU for sharing your experiences with this apparently-widespread problem.
"After attempting to start the engine, if the SECURITY light flashes or stays on, wait ten minutes with the key in ON until the light goes off. Then turn the ignition to OFF before attempting to start the engine again."
Note that You must turn the ignition to OFF before attempting to start the engine again.
Also, What kind of car do you have? Is it one that uses a special key? (look at the side of your key, just below the black plastic "handle". If there is a "+" stamped on the side of the key, then you have a different kind of Passlock system.) Please post back and let us know, as all of us would like to know why 3-in-1 oil on the key works.
Was this your solution on your 2003 Saturn? If so, can you please post back here and tell us if you have one of the keys that has the resistor embedded in the key, or one that has the chip in the key. You should be able to tell by looking at your key. It will have a "+" stamped on the side of the key.
Please post back.
A special hello to lovemygrandam as he has assisted me late last year with my 2000GT1.
An update... My car STILL HAS the security light constantly illuminated steady, but continues to start fine and run fine for me for the last 12 months. I even passed the Massachusetts yearly car insoection with that light on, as it doesn't throw any trouble codes. So my light is still on, and my car runs fine... I'm happy, but sure wish that mod would have worked for me; darn it...
As I mentioned many months ago, my Pontiac dealer installed a new cylinder and cut me new keys.. My steady light seemed to start after the new cylinder was put in. Prior to that cylinder, I would have to do the 10 minute wait process.... that's why I had the new cylinder put in.
I am still wondering if the mechanic might have jostled a wire somewhere. I was hoping to check that out but have been in some back pain and still haven't done that yet...
So my light burns brightly; oh joy !!! But the car runs fine, lol. I have a ton of catching up to do on this long thread. But I'm still here folks... just been down in the dumps a bit.
Take care all; I'll start reading this long thread (if I can find where on earth I left off many many months ago).
Tommy, from Massachusetts
Post 695 states that using 3 in 1 oil on your key could cure the problem. I'm sure that this works on some vehicles, because some use a resistor embedded in the key, with tiny electrical contacts that must connect when inserting the key. If these get dirty, 3-in-1 oil can clean them and make them work again.
With the systems that work with a hall-effect switch and a magnet in the lock cylinder, it's also possible that getting enough 3-in-1 oil into the lock cylinder may wash away metal filings that accumulate near the magnet, thus making that system work again.
So my suggestion is Please include your car's make, year, and model when posting
thank you dwebb4
I had a problem with the passlock and the engine would crank 3 times and car would start but the would shut itself down immediately.
I ended up bringing my car ( 1997 PONTIAC GRAND AM SE) to my mechanic who told me the problem was the passlock so he fixed, he had to call some other guy by the way, and back then i paid around $ 150.00.
Yesterday, Sunday Dec 13 I was about to leave home to go to do some errands...sit in the car...and the same exact problem comes up again.
THE CAR WOULD NOT START.
So I though about what Lovemygrandam said....and I put my self to work.
I thought about bringing the car back to the mechanich but i was kind of afraid that would ask me for some more money(labour and towing)...and right now...being laid off...i can not affort that luxury.
So this morning I waited for the 10 minutes with the key in the ON position till i was able to start the car , when the enging started....WITH THE CAR STILL RUNNING...(obviously before that i took out the housing of the steering wheel so that i was able to reach that damn yellow wire without any problem).
I cut the yellow wire...even if i noticed that the old owner already did some work probably changing the keylock or something!!!
IT WORKS.....the passlock light WILL COME ON....and IT WORKS.
I also bought the mini toggle switch ...hooked up the wires to the switcher...mounted on the Housing steering wheel ...it works.
After the modification THE REMOTE STARTER WILL MAKE PASSLOCK SENSOR TO GO ON (with the yellow wire disconnected ) so i can not use the remote starter.
I want to specify that becase seems like the car would start also normally...with the switcher ON.... this makes me think that it may be some more problem too maybe related to : 1) some wires touching eachother 2) corrosion 3) humidity.
So far so good....only one day but it works....we will see what happens and my advice to others is USE A MINI TOGGLE SWITCHER...in this way you can always bring it back at the factory set up if accidentally battery power goes down or any other problem.
Thanks to LOVEMYGRANDAM for his HUGE help given to all of us in order to fix this damn problem.
http://bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
Most remote start systems on Grand Am do some modifications to the yellow wire.
If you have a remote start installed, there may have been wiring changes made that we did not forsee, so this fix may have rendered the Remote Start inoperative. If you know who installed the remote starter, you may be able to contact them to find out how to make it work again with the yellow wire cut. Worth a phonecall, I would say.
Thanks again
Likely causes of not starting:
Starter motor problem (if engine is not being cranked)
No spark (Ignition problems)
No fuel (fuel system problems)
No compression (timing problems)
A service manual will give you troubleshooting instructions. Service manual =$27.50
You may have one of two problems if your key will not turn. The most likely problem is that your steering system is putting pressure on the steering lock mechanism, which in turn makes it impossible to turn the key. Try this. Put your key in the ignition and gently try to turn it, while at the same time, turning the steering wheel both to the left and to the right. This should release the steering lock, and in turn, allow the key to turn. If this does not work, then the next most likely problem is either an incorrect installation of the lock, or the new lock does not match the new key. I'm wondering, how did you get the vehicle home if you cannot turn the ignition switch to "ON"?
Read post #599 if you think this is a "Passlock" problem.
1. Get in the car. Watch the dash lights as you insert the key and turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position. The "SECURITY" light (and all the other warning lights) should come on for the first two seconds, and then go out. This is the warning system check.
2. The security system will not cause the vehicle to stall when you are driving.It only keeps the car from running when you first try to start it. If your vehicle stalls while running, then one of the following is happening:
A. Your engine is losing compression (timing problems)
B. Your engine is not getting spark. (ignition or electrical problems)
C. Your engine is not getting fuel.
You have two choices:
A. Have it fixed by a reliable mechanic.
B. Get yourself a service manual and go through the troubleshooting procedures and repair it yourself.
Every vehicle on the road is subject to failure of one kind or another. They are complicated machines. A service manual is an absolute necessity if you are going to try to save money on repairs. Make the investment (around $30.00) You will not be disappointed.
Sometimes, the "Security" light comes on, and the 10 minute relearn will clear it up, and it won't happen again for a long time. This is probably the case with your vehicle.