Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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There are a number of things which could be wrong with your car. For a car to run, you must have three things:
The proper amount of fuel must be delivered to the cylinders
There must be compression
There must be spark
These are the basics. If too much fuel is delivered to the cylinders, the car will flood. This could be your problem. Sometimes, when a car sits overnight, and certain conditions exist, there will be too much fuel in the intake, and the engine will not start until the excess fuel is cleared. That may be what is happening in your case. After trying for a long time, the excess fuel is finally driven out of the cylinders by the constant cranking, and finally, the engine is no longer flooded, and it will start.
If there is not sufficient compression, your engine will not start. This could also be the problem you are having. Constantly turning the engine over with the starter may be warming the cylinders enough to make them finally fire up the fuel, even when the compression is low.
If the ignition system does not deliver a high enough intensity spark, this could also cause the vehicle not to start. Again, as the engine gets a bit warmer from turning it over for a prolonged time, this may be overcome.
These are my recommendations.
* Check the compression of all your cylinders. I don't know how to do this, but any competent mechanic should be able to do it. A quick check is to listen to your engine as you try to turn it over. If it seems to be turning over very fast, but does not fire up, this could be a sign of low compression. The only way you would know if it is turning over very fast is if you were to compare it to a similar car that starts correctly.
* Make sure you are getting good spark to all cylinders. Again, any good mechanic should know how to do this. This isn't that easy to do on the V-6 engines, since they are so crammed into the engine compartment that it is difficult to get to the spark plugs.
* Make sure that fuel is being delivered to the cylinders. You will need a shop manual for your vehicle to determine how to do this, but I understand that there is a valve somewhere on the fuel rail where you can check for proper fuel pressure. See my post #599 in this thread for a link to where to purchase a shop manual.
I am afraid that you really do need a mechanic to repair your vehicle. It is sad that you have had your car to mechanics who are not willing to diagnose your problem and perform the correct maintenance and repairs.
But to address your problem anyway, You should probably disconnect your battery cables from the battery, make sure he terminals are ABSOLUTELY clean, and that the contact points on your battery also are clean and bright. Then re-connect your battery terminals, making sure they are secure. If you can get to the other ends of the battery cables, you might want to do the same there. Once you are sure your battery cables are secure on both ends, start the vehicle and let it run for 10 seconds or so, then shut it off. Do that about 20 times, letting it sit at least an hour between starts. If you don't have any problems, you probably will have enough confidence in the car to take it out of your driveway.
Good Luck
The Passlock Security [non-permissible content removed]
Thanks in advance.
The light being on all the time is an indication that the resistor you soldered into the circuit is not connected. There is an open circuit in your wiring. Either you soldered the resistor in to the wrong side of the yellow wire, you broke the resistor, or in some other manner, the circuit became open. To troubleshoot, do the following:
Remove the middle connector from the BCM. Measure the resistance between Pins A6 and B6. The resistance should be the same as the resistor you soldered in place. If it isn't, there is an error in your installation, or there is an open or short in your wiring.
Re-read the page on the web site thoroughly, and you will see that when the light is on solid, it means that your circuitry is bad.
waiting 10 minutes almost every time I started my car.....Ja
Grand Am Passlock Security System Repair
I'd just like to say thanks for all your help. I followed your instructions on your website, step by step to fix my 2000 Oldsmobile Alero. So far, after two weeks, I have had no problems with the Security light coming on or the car starting (knock on wood!).
To anyone who suspects their passlock problem can be fixed with Mr. Berger's method, I suggest you try it (at your own risk, mind you). I had never soldered before, but quickly picked it up after watching several Youtube videos. Mr. Berger's pictures and guide are extremely helpful. Again, proceed at your own risk and mechanical know-how.
Thanks a ton!
-mizzOUstu702
I WISH I FOUND THIS WEBSITE before...instead i called my mechanic who came
towed the car and fixid, he then told me he had to call someone else to fix the passlock thing but he already told it was something to with it when he towed the car.
I can't believe how stupid i was withtout checking the Manual and do the 10 seconds' thing to make the car start again.
Honestly i can't tell you if the car was doing any noise in the past days...a tlinking or stuff like that since it makes a lot of noise.
My GrandAm is a 1997 with 130,000 miles and i can tell you that it runs fine!!
Anyway tonight i picked up the car... my mechanic which i have always considered honest,at least with me, charged me $ 300 ... towing included and the problem seems fixed. I hope so. What do you think???
Take a look at your work order. If he replaced the Ignition switch, he probably fixed your problem correctly, and you got by a lot cheaper than going to a dealer. If he didn't replace the ignition switch, check to see what he actually did, and see if it makes sense. Remember, Passlock problems are caused by either:
1. Ignition Switch
2. Wiring & connectors
3. Body Control Module
Doing the 10 minute reset is not worth $300. Why? Because it only takes 10 seconds to turn the ignition on, and 15 seconds to check to see if it worked 15 minutes later.... Total repair time - less than 30 seconds.
THANK YOU for sharing your experiences with this apparently-widespread problem.
"After attempting to start the engine, if the SECURITY light flashes or stays on, wait ten minutes with the key in ON until the light goes off. Then turn the ignition to OFF before attempting to start the engine again."
Note that You must turn the ignition to OFF before attempting to start the engine again.
Also, What kind of car do you have? Is it one that uses a special key? (look at the side of your key, just below the black plastic "handle". If there is a "+" stamped on the side of the key, then you have a different kind of Passlock system.) Please post back and let us know, as all of us would like to know why 3-in-1 oil on the key works.
Was this your solution on your 2003 Saturn? If so, can you please post back here and tell us if you have one of the keys that has the resistor embedded in the key, or one that has the chip in the key. You should be able to tell by looking at your key. It will have a "+" stamped on the side of the key.
Please post back.
A special hello to lovemygrandam as he has assisted me late last year with my 2000GT1.
An update... My car STILL HAS the security light constantly illuminated steady, but continues to start fine and run fine for me for the last 12 months. I even passed the Massachusetts yearly car insoection with that light on, as it doesn't throw any trouble codes. So my light is still on, and my car runs fine... I'm happy, but sure wish that mod would have worked for me; darn it...
As I mentioned many months ago, my Pontiac dealer installed a new cylinder and cut me new keys.. My steady light seemed to start after the new cylinder was put in. Prior to that cylinder, I would have to do the 10 minute wait process.... that's why I had the new cylinder put in.
I am still wondering if the mechanic might have jostled a wire somewhere. I was hoping to check that out but have been in some back pain and still haven't done that yet...
So my light burns brightly; oh joy !!! But the car runs fine, lol. I have a ton of catching up to do on this long thread. But I'm still here folks... just been down in the dumps a bit.
Take care all; I'll start reading this long thread (if I can find where on earth I left off many many months ago).
Tommy, from Massachusetts
Post 695 states that using 3 in 1 oil on your key could cure the problem. I'm sure that this works on some vehicles, because some use a resistor embedded in the key, with tiny electrical contacts that must connect when inserting the key. If these get dirty, 3-in-1 oil can clean them and make them work again.
With the systems that work with a hall-effect switch and a magnet in the lock cylinder, it's also possible that getting enough 3-in-1 oil into the lock cylinder may wash away metal filings that accumulate near the magnet, thus making that system work again.
So my suggestion is Please include your car's make, year, and model when posting
thank you dwebb4
I had a problem with the passlock and the engine would crank 3 times and car would start but the would shut itself down immediately.
I ended up bringing my car ( 1997 PONTIAC GRAND AM SE) to my mechanic who told me the problem was the passlock so he fixed, he had to call some other guy by the way, and back then i paid around $ 150.00.
Yesterday, Sunday Dec 13 I was about to leave home to go to do some errands...sit in the car...and the same exact problem comes up again.
THE CAR WOULD NOT START.
So I though about what Lovemygrandam said....and I put my self to work.
I thought about bringing the car back to the mechanich but i was kind of afraid that would ask me for some more money(labour and towing)...and right now...being laid off...i can not affort that luxury.
So this morning I waited for the 10 minutes with the key in the ON position till i was able to start the car , when the enging started....WITH THE CAR STILL RUNNING...(obviously before that i took out the housing of the steering wheel so that i was able to reach that damn yellow wire without any problem).
I cut the yellow wire...even if i noticed that the old owner already did some work probably changing the keylock or something!!!
IT WORKS.....the passlock light WILL COME ON....and IT WORKS.
I also bought the mini toggle switch ...hooked up the wires to the switcher...mounted on the Housing steering wheel ...it works.
After the modification THE REMOTE STARTER WILL MAKE PASSLOCK SENSOR TO GO ON (with the yellow wire disconnected ) so i can not use the remote starter.
I want to specify that becase seems like the car would start also normally...with the switcher ON.... this makes me think that it may be some more problem too maybe related to : 1) some wires touching eachother 2) corrosion 3) humidity.
So far so good....only one day but it works....we will see what happens and my advice to others is USE A MINI TOGGLE SWITCHER...in this way you can always bring it back at the factory set up if accidentally battery power goes down or any other problem.
Thanks to LOVEMYGRANDAM for his HUGE help given to all of us in order to fix this damn problem.
http://bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm
Most remote start systems on Grand Am do some modifications to the yellow wire.
If you have a remote start installed, there may have been wiring changes made that we did not forsee, so this fix may have rendered the Remote Start inoperative. If you know who installed the remote starter, you may be able to contact them to find out how to make it work again with the yellow wire cut. Worth a phonecall, I would say.
Thanks again
Likely causes of not starting:
Starter motor problem (if engine is not being cranked)
No spark (Ignition problems)
No fuel (fuel system problems)
No compression (timing problems)
A service manual will give you troubleshooting instructions. Service manual =$27.50
You may have one of two problems if your key will not turn. The most likely problem is that your steering system is putting pressure on the steering lock mechanism, which in turn makes it impossible to turn the key. Try this. Put your key in the ignition and gently try to turn it, while at the same time, turning the steering wheel both to the left and to the right. This should release the steering lock, and in turn, allow the key to turn. If this does not work, then the next most likely problem is either an incorrect installation of the lock, or the new lock does not match the new key. I'm wondering, how did you get the vehicle home if you cannot turn the ignition switch to "ON"?
Read post #599 if you think this is a "Passlock" problem.
1. Get in the car. Watch the dash lights as you insert the key and turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position. The "SECURITY" light (and all the other warning lights) should come on for the first two seconds, and then go out. This is the warning system check.
2. The security system will not cause the vehicle to stall when you are driving.It only keeps the car from running when you first try to start it. If your vehicle stalls while running, then one of the following is happening:
A. Your engine is losing compression (timing problems)
B. Your engine is not getting spark. (ignition or electrical problems)
C. Your engine is not getting fuel.
You have two choices:
A. Have it fixed by a reliable mechanic.
B. Get yourself a service manual and go through the troubleshooting procedures and repair it yourself.
Every vehicle on the road is subject to failure of one kind or another. They are complicated machines. A service manual is an absolute necessity if you are going to try to save money on repairs. Make the investment (around $30.00) You will not be disappointed.
Sometimes, the "Security" light comes on, and the 10 minute relearn will clear it up, and it won't happen again for a long time. This is probably the case with your vehicle.