Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems



  • jolly6jolly6 Member Posts: 1
    i had the same prob for 2 years. i finally went to a mechanic and he replaced the ignition, had to take a new one to a dealer and have it coded with my key. haven't had a prob since and it only cost 250.00. if i had gone to the dearler it would have been twice that amount.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    There's no "chip" in the ignition switch. It's a Hall effect sensor (magnetic).
    Most of the repairs you mention are maintenance. Did you think you would get 133K without doing anything?
    The rotors and brakes (front) are a known deficiency, but not just for GM. Many manufacturers were using the cheap South American and Chinese rotors. A good aftermarket rotor and pad set usually solved this problem.
  • pontiac4pontiac4 Member Posts: 10
    I have to disagree with you about the maintenance part. I bought a low mileage Grand Am GT and the lock has been changed once and it is bad again. The Pass Lock system is a very poor design.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I wasn't referring to that. I meant the struts, brakes, etc.
  • pontiac4pontiac4 Member Posts: 10
    Ok sorry about that.
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    For those of you who have not done it yet:

    Mine is a 1997 GrandAm. :P I warrant what follows for 1997s only, but perhaps yours is the same.

    1. The manual says to isolate the yellow data wire through the radio compartment, but I did not have to do that. Pop the top off the steering-wheel housing (it snaps on) and remove the tilt-steering lever (unscrews -- mine had some locktite on it, so be careful).

    2. Now remove the bottom portion of the housing (three screws underneath).

    3. BE CAREFUL! There are two yellow wires underneath -- one to the air bag, one to the ignition. Obviously, you want the one to the ignition. It is the wire "most" underneath (obvious what that means when you see it) and closest to the driver when he or she is behind the wheel.

    4. START THE CAR! START THE CAR! START THE CAR! This is an essential step! If the car won't start (like mine), jiggle the wire as you turn the ignition (many of these PassLock problems are old, corroded wire connections, not the Hall sensor).

    5. Clip the yellow data wire, leaving at least some wire to work with on both sections. Once the wire is cut, you may (but don't have to) turn off the car.

    6. From Radio Shack, obtain SPST mini-toggle switch # 275-612 (total cost including tax: $3.17).

    7. Remove switch from packaging; make sure it is in the "off" (contacts open) position (check it with a meter).

    8. Strip a short section of insulation from each end of the cut data wire, slip some shrink wrap over the wires, and splice in the switch.

    9. Maneuver the shrink wrap over the soldered terminals and heat to form a completely insulated splice.

    10. The toggle can be left inside the housing or mounted on the underside of the lower housing section (drill a 1/4-inch hole carefully so the plastic does not melt around the drill bit).

    11. Reinstall lower housing (three screws) and tilt lever (you may want to use some locktite, but I didn't). If you opted for outside mounting, screw on the locknut for the switch.

    12. Snap top half of housing in place.

    13. If you turned the car off, turn it on to test. It should start right up.

    That's all there is to it! :D

    Now: Don't write back and say your "theft system" light is on -- it's supposed to be on. What you have just done is disable PassLock, and YOUR CAR IS NO LONGER PROTECTED FROM BEING HOTWIRED AND STOLEN. :cry: So, you must take all the old precautions against auto theft, like locking the car and pocketing the keys. :shades:

    IF YOUR BATTERY DIES (or if your local dummy repairman disconnects it to work on the car): PassLock probably will reactivate -- that's why you spliced in the switch. Flip the toggle to "on." Now, in effect, the data wire is reconnected. You must get the car started again to disable PassLock. Once started and running for more than five seconds, flip the toggle to "off." PassLock once again is disabled, and the red "theft system" light will come on. Ignore the light.

    N.B.: If you accidentally (or deliberately) flip the toggle while the car is off, PassLock will reactivate, and the car must be restarted again before the toggle can be turned off again. If PassLock is engaged and the toggle is off, the car will not start. If you flip the toggle while the car is running, again PassLock will engage and stay engaged unless you flip the toggle off before turning off the ignition.
  • debtdebt Member Posts: 10
    No I didn't expect to have 133K miles on it before having to do anything. I'm surprised I haven't had more problems already that most of you have named. It's in the shop now hoping that whatever the heck is causing that darn security light to blink and not start. :lemon:
  • songbird500songbird500 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Grand Am and going through the passlock issue. I have had numerous repairs done to my car and they never work, I use the 10 minute reset, but have to do it more frequently then ever. We have called the local dealership, we have called the national GM representatives, we have called our regional repair representative. If you call them you will get the same answer. First they deny they have ever heard of the problem then you make your way up the ladder and suddently its not a safety issue therefore its not their problem. Although I am 24 years old and a female and I find being stuck random places by myself a safety issue. What I am wondering is how long they will still install the passlock system knowing that they have such a high rate of problems. It amazes me that there are whole companies out there advertising technology (bypass devices and remote start) to help go around the passlock system after it has failed. If a problem becomes so abundant to make it profitable to spin off sub-industries you would think they would just choose a different security system, or at least design in a way to disengage the system without having to Frankenstein internal wires or buy an aftermarket device. This has been such a costly frustration.
  • lizmolizmo Member Posts: 4
  • lizmolizmo Member Posts: 4
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Those aftermarket devices your referring to aren't specifically to correct the problem with Passlock, but to enable you to install a remote start system.
    Waiting the ten minutes isn't a repair for the Passlock problem, but is only a reset. The only effective way to repair it in 95% of the cases is to replace the ignition switch which has the Hall effect sensor on it. In some cases, the connector to the PCM is found to be corroded which causes similar symptoms, but typically it also causes other problems.
  • lizmolizmo Member Posts: 4
    darn! that sounds expensive! lol but oh well i will look into that! thanks a ton!!! ;)
  • trkennytrkenny Member Posts: 2
    Success, indeed. I have been reading this message board for quite a while looking for a solution to the passlock/security problem. I have been struggling with a 99 Grand Am for about two years when recently it has gotten progressively worse. I went from it happening once every couple weeks to happening everyday...absolutely aggravating. But then, after calling around to probably 10 different places I found a guy that has been seeing this problem a lot lately and told me he felt confident to try the fix if I provided him with the instructions. I printed nobullchitbids latest posting and took it to him.

    I have started the vehicle successfully several times since his work and feel confident that it will continue to start. He installed the "toggle" switch under the dash as I requested and told me it was a "piece of cake".

    Just a little history - we called the dealer on several occasions and Pontiac about our problems with the security system. They absolutely denied ever even hearing or knowing anything about it. We had the remote start completely removed from the car in order to troubleshoot to find out that the problems continued. It wasn't until reading this message board and getting the necessary instructions that a mechanic actually took a crack at it and resolved my problem.

    -My car starts
    -Security light stays on solid all the time now (can be resolved by a piece of black electrical tape).
    -Work performed by Bob at Auto Technicians in Midland, MI.
    -Took a matter of a couple hours to perform.
    -No longer stranded in my driveway waiting to go to work.
    -No longer stranded at my work parking lot watching everyone else drive home in their fault free cars.
    -No longer stuck at the gas station pissing people off while I wait 10 minutes before I can try to start my car.

    If you are getting no satisfaction from dealers try an auto shop and talk them through your issue, chances are that someone there has dealt with a similar problem. Bob was overjoyed when I provided him with the instructions; it allowed him less “guessing” and enabled him to get the job done quickly.

    Good luck,
  • fletc1efletc1e Member Posts: 1
    So glad I found this site! I bought my 2000 Grand Am second hand about 2 and a half years ago and have had nothing but problems since (from the serp belt, AC compressor, intake gasket, rotors etc,etc)!! :mad:
    I was left stranded yesterday after my car wouldn't start - surprise, surprise my security light was flashing. Unfortunately I did not know about the 15min reset thing so called road side assistance and was towed to my usual auto shop (who now know me by name!). :P Of course when they took a look at it the stupid thing started for them first time. He wasn't sure what was wrong and said it might be the fuel pump?? :confuse: After reading all of your entries I'm pretty convinced that it's not. So do you all think I should try the toggle thing? I'm an international student in MI & I know nothing about cars (unfortunately)
  • lizmolizmo Member Posts: 4
    lol, i was laughing at ur bulletin cuz when u put the facts about pissing people off at the pump and waiting in ur driveway while needing to go to work is excatly what happens to me!!!! lol but anyway!.... well where did u get the instructions on how to put the "toggle" switch??? i think i need to do that to my car! i used it today and it gave me no probs... BUT i know that it will start to act up agian soon... :( darn!!!! oh well.... let me know how to install that switch... IF U CAN... ;)
  • wcbokwcbok Member Posts: 1
    I had my first problem with this passlock thing last weekend. My 2004 started after a jump, so I figured it was the battery, and bought a new one. Thursday, it wouldn't start and the wife and I had to share a car for a day, (not good since we work 15 miles apart.) Thursday night I found this forum, so at least now I know what's going on, and I was able to start it after the 10 minute wait. This morning the alarm went off while the car was sitting in my garage! Wouldn't start, 10 minute wait, then it started. Oh well - thanks for the information.
  • meetmark1234meetmark1234 Member Posts: 2
    Ok my 02 grand am gt is havin problems wit the passlock..i guess the passlock box under the hood dismounted from the vehicle's metal..and now the car wont start just crank..i remounted the box and tried to start it nuttin..the security lite still flashes..tried the 10 min wit key on nuttin still flashes..not only that my battery isnt fully charged..n ow will havin the battery charged help..and if anything else would help with the situation ...thank u for any help
  • jkeller05jkeller05 Member Posts: 1
    I want to buy a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am, the car started right away but when it got shut off it wouldn't start right away. After a minute it did start. Does anyone know if this is a security thing. The car was then driven and when shut off again it wouldn't start, after hitting the unlock button or waiting a minute it started. Help!!!!!
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    For everyone blaming everything on PassLock:

    Read the Owner's Manual!

    If there be a problem with the security system, when starting the car, the red "theft system" light should come on, flash for awhile after the car dies, then probably stop flashing and stay solid red.

    If this isn't happening, the problem probably isn't PassLock.

    Mr. Keller: Your solution is obvious -- tell the current owner to get the problem fixed, or you won't buy the car (and neither will anyone else). A 2004 still should be under warranty.
  • donkar1donkar1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 03 grand am, I have replaced a fuel pump, oil pressure sensor and a ignition tumbler, only to find out that the pass lock system is screwing up! I called GM and they told me that they are not aware of any problems with the pass lock, they are so full of it because I just read alot of e-mails regarding the same problem. I would love to add my name to the list for the class action suite, I was told that you can cut a wire and problem solved. I know several people that own grand am and are having the same problem.... GM needs to be held accountable, that many people with a similar problem I don't think so...
  • meetmark1234meetmark1234 Member Posts: 2
    the pass lock box thats under the hood on the right side inbetween the fender and intake box fell off and of course my car wont start either..now seein how there is a metal piece in the middle of the boxes that should stay in contact wit the metal of the inner fender..well i remounted it and it still wont start ne suggesttions
  • camkatcamkat Member Posts: 3
    I started having this "no start" problem with my 2002 Grand Am in June 2007. The dealer replaced the "ignition lock cylinder" and "recoded and relearned".
    Is this the same as the "ignition switch" which has the "Hall effect sensor"?

    Today my car wouldn't start again. Fortunately I found out about the resetting-10-minute thing from this site. The car is now at the dealer.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    No, the lock cylinder isn't the same as the ignition switch. The lock cylinder is the part that goes inside the ignition switch and the key goes into of course. I assume your security light is flashing, which USUALLY means that the Hall effect sensor has gone out or is becoming intermittent.
  • camkatcamkat Member Posts: 3
    The security light doesn't stay on. It did come on once while I was driving. Then it went off. After that, the car starts fine for a few days, and then suddenly it won't start.
    The dealer ran a diagnostic on it on Friday and supposedly found several problems. I will hear about it tomorrow.

    What is the cost to replace the whole ignition switch?
  • mdburgessmdburgess Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Grand Am GT. It cost me $280 to get the ignition swithch replaced at a dealer. I was satisfied with the service I received. I just wish the AARP Motor Club knew what the problem was before I had it towed.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    If it comes on while your driving then it's detecting a problem in the security system after it's started. That is exactly what it is supposed to do under that condition. If your not getting the flashing security light upon attempting to start and having to wait for ten minutes for it to clear, then one possible problem is corrosion on a connector to a control module. That has been reported as a possible by some. I don't remember right now if it's the PCM or BCM module, but I do recall it has been a problem for some.
  • camkatcamkat Member Posts: 3
    I'm still waiting for dealer to tell me what THEY think is wrong. I had the same problem with towing. The first time it wouldn't start I was home, and had AAA tow it a couple miles to the dealer. I paid them $100 to "diagnose" that they couldn't find anything wrong. Then a week later it wouldn't start and I was out in the country at night. I had it towed 30 miles, that cost me $115, and I didn't get home until 1AM. After that the dealer replaced the key cylinder. I wish I had known about this re-set thing then. And I wish I knew about the ignition switch. I should have googled it months ago. Live and learn.
  • hhjorthhhjorth Member Posts: 5
    I'm thinking that I also have the Passlock problem as well. The difference with mine from what I am reading is that my security light doesn't flash. It never comes on at all when my car won't start. I have no power anywhere. I can get it to reset by turning the key to "on" and waiting. But each time I do this I have to wait longer for it to reset. And so far even after it's reset and the power has returned, the car won't start. I have to wait for at least an hour after the power has come back on for it to start. My boyfriend has also found that if he disconnects the power to the battery and then reconnects it after a few minutes the car will start again. But my security light never flashes. It will come on for a few days and go off again but never stays on long or flashes. It seems that I'm the only one that the key reset isn't working for. I've been stranded 45 minutes from home 3 times now since this started happening 2 weeks ago. It sounds like its all the same problem with the passlock system to me.

    does anyone know if there is still a class action lawsuit for this? If there is I would like to get my name added to it. :(
  • jojoztwojojoztwo Member Posts: 2
    I'm having the same problem w/ my 2003 Grand Am. I've called the dealer as well and they told me it's "probably the ignition". I only have 30,000 miles on mine..... That's it!! I'm really frustrated, would love any other advise. Is yours repaired?
  • jojoztwojojoztwo Member Posts: 2
    What kind of switch? When I called 2 different dealerships, they both told me the same thing... "It's connected to the ignition and you can't disable the Passlock". Please tell me what you did so I can do the same. I so tired of messing w/ this!!
  • kimmer67kimmer67 Member Posts: 2
    I tried to just replace the key cylinder the other day and it did not corrct the problem. I imagine it must be the switch. My friend has the same car but a 2002, mine is a 1999. The humidity is a factor as we seem to have flare ups at the same time. She recently had her hubby change the coils and the ignition control module. I say check all your connections: ECM,PCM,BCM first then the switch if not corrected. If you want to be risky do the wire cut. :)
  • hhjorthhhjorth Member Posts: 5
    Mine isn't fixed yet. Being told it's the ignition switch and the Hall's sensor. So far the best quote to get it fixed is $345. I'm going to go ahead and get it fixed by a dealer and then try and trade it in before it goes out again. Dealers are telling me that it will have to be replaced again in the future because the defect is in the part--but they don't know where. People have had them replaced up to 4 times. I may cut the wire, but that will be a last resort.

    Also, if you haven't made an official complaint with the National Highway Saftey Administration, do that. From their main website you can go to Office of Defects. If they get enough complaints on something that the company won't recall, they force them to recall it. They haven't forced GM to do anything about this because there are only 17 people who have complained to them.
  • hgosinskihgosinski Member Posts: 22
    Well, last night I got stranded for the first time since having the passlock replaced. It's only been 7 months! I am so upset. It cost me 600.00 to fix, and now it's broken again. Like you said, it's a defective part, so they won't replace it for free either. I have vo choice but to keep getting it fixed because I had horrible credit, needed a car, and am paying 20,000 for my peice of crap grand am. I have 3 1/2 more years to pay on it, so I am screwed. I spent my savings getting this thing fixed. I just spent 800.00 getting a new intake manifold in May. I have already filed a complaint with the NHSA, (do they respond back? I never got a response.) Maybe I will file another.... I am thinking aout cutting the wire, I jprinted out the instructions awhile back. But I haven't heard if it really works,. some peoplke said yes, some said no....I just don't know what to do anymore. :cry:
  • shawtya10shawtya10 Member Posts: 1
    Well Thursday I was planning on going to work to a do some over time I signed up for. I stopped by the store to get a snack and go back to my car to start and It wouldn't do anything...NOTHING...it would just beep the light is blinking on and off on the theft lock thing...and I don't even know if my car would turn to the ACC that you guys were talking about before, because it's stuck at OFF. Right now it's been towed to Suttle Motors and them bastards say it would cost $625 to get a cyclinder and an ignition switch. After reading all of this I just called the place and left a message and asked them not to touch a damn thing on my car yet. I want to try these steps you guys provided before I spend out of my pocket because I have a damn plane ticket I need to buy for the Holidays. Also I was reading that if another key is made that may help...would it really? About the wires getting cut... would that terminate the problem for good? and Also how would I go about resetting the lock if my key is stuck at OFF? :mad: :confuse: :cry::(

    I just recieved this damn car in June!
  • cabs616cabs616 Member Posts: 1
    Wish I'd have seen this site during the summer when my car did this. I have an 02 Grand Am that I drove to work one day just fine, and when I went outside at lunch to go out, nothing. Wouldn't turn over, wouldn't start, just nothing. However it did have power, as the lights would come on, and the windows would work. I of course knew nothing of the 10 minute security system lock thing, so had it towed to a local garage, as I also do not trust dealers. They couldn't fix it, didn't have any idea what was wrong with it, so then I had it towed again to the dealer, who then charged me $500 to replace the whole ignition. It has solved the problem so far, it's been 6 months and hasn't happened again, but I would certainly set fire to it if it happened again this soon........... wish I had known about the ten minute reset - could have saved myself the $500
  • hhjorthhhjorth Member Posts: 5
    I totally understand. I've called around to have mine replaced this next week or so--it's costing me more to drive my boyfriends jeep around than it would to just fix mine!! I'm in the same situation you are. Had a truck that was a lemon and this was the only car I could get that worked with the rollover from my truck. I still have 4 years to pay on mine! I don't think you get a response from the NHSA, or at least I still haven't either. My boyfriend is hoping that it won't go out on us again before we get more of it paid off so we can get rid of it without rolling over even more onto another car. He's got the instructions for cutting the wire too, but we're both really leary of doing that. The dealers here are giving me a price quote of $345. Do you have to have the keys reprogramed when you change this too? I'm hearing that some people are having a problem with the car recognizing their old key after they have this problem fixed!
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    The key isn't an issue. The key is only important when dealing with the older "passkey" system, not passlock.
    The part that needs to be replaced, in most cases, is the ignition switch which has the Hall effect sensor on it. The lock cylinder and key will be the same.
    Actually $345 sounds pretty good, if that's what they're doing.
  • granam96granam96 Member Posts: 1
    My car starts right off but dies right away. After a few attemps it will start. So, I got it started and then let it run for a few minutes after which I cut the yellow wire running from the back of the ignition switch. The car kept running so I shut it off. I then tried to restart but car was completely dead-no clicks or bells when placing key to start position. I reconnected yellow wire and I was back to were I started. What am I doing wrong?
  • rottie110rottie110 Member Posts: 4
    Hi, Im new here, but I have a similar problem, starting in July 07, car would not start right away had to crank a few times, intermittantly happened, called dealer said they wouldnt be able to diagnose as its still starting, ok so on my way to work one day the car stalled while driving no lights came on, took to the dealer, they found a TSP for a washer that need to be put on a wire to the motor or something they werent very clear, good thing only cost $56.00.

    I have an extended warranty that of course doesnt cover the ignition system.

    So the car was fine until yesterday now in the morning, I had to crank it 3 times to get it too start, this morning it took 4 times to get it to finally engage. The security light only came on once while I was driving about a week ago, but didnt cause any issues. Its like the car isnt getting any gas on start up. the fuel pump primes right away when you turn the key and its starting up fine all day except in the morning. I dont want to go back to the damn dealer they look at me like Im nuts the car doesnt do it for them, and then to have to pay $400 to get something fixed is just nuts when sooo many people I know have the same problem, and all the people on these forums do.

    Im just wondering if maybe I have something else going on but the battery is new, the light are strong, they just get weak after cranking so much.

    Nevermind that I need to replace the brakes and rotors for the 2nd time in the year Ive had the car cause the rotors warped again.

    Thanks for listening. any suggestions would be great. The oil is fresh and full, and I just put some lucas fuel system cleaner in tonite grasping at straws this close to christmas.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Well, does the security light come and flash when you try to start it?
    The light coming on solid when your driving means a problem has been detected in the passlock system and a code will be set which can be read by an OBD scanner.
    Your problem may be a failing ignition switch, based on your symptoms.
    You can solve the problem with the brakes by using high quality rotors and pads, not the cheap ones from the auto parts.
  • guistandzoroguistandzoro Member Posts: 1
    I have 2002 pont. ga. i had to change out the drivers door lock switch because it did not work. I now have an issue with both powere door locks not working =. fuses are fine. the door will not lock or open, but i hear it trying to ingage. any suggestions.
  • rottie110rottie110 Member Posts: 4
    The security light only came on solid that one time and never again. When I turn the key the security light comes on solid with all the other lights and then goes out. I noticed Im not hearing the fuel pump prime when its not starting. It was fine for two days and now it did it again when I left work today, wouldnt start cranked it about 5 times, and I wait for the lights to go off before I turn it over, and it finally started. I had to go to a parent teacher conference and ran to the store after and it started fine after that, so it seems its not getting enough fuel pressure, Im thinking my fuel pump is going, sad to say Im hoping thats the probably cause my warranty will cover that. Im calling the dealer tomorrow. Hopefully I cant get it in on sat.

    Im getting the brakes done by a friend and getting some really good rotors and pads, the ones it are from when I bought it, so they are probably crappy I agree with that :)

    Thanks for the insight.
  • hhjorthhhjorth Member Posts: 5
    That's good to know I won't have a problem with the key.

    I called to take my car in at the dealership that quoted me $345, and now they are quoting me $800-$900! The price really jumped in the past week! I did find another dealer though that will do it for between $200-$300 so I'm taking it there. I'm hearing that people are having to replace the ignition switch and halls sensor alot after they do it the first time. Do you know how long the new one should last????
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    Update on my original instructions (post # 209, currently on p. 22 of this forum) re installing the toggle to disable the PassLock system on 1997 and similar Pontiacs: ;)

    I have had no subsequent problems starting my car. :) I have on occasion had the security light flicker rather than stay on all the time; however, I think this is corrosion in the lamp housing irrelevant to reactivation of PassLock. Even when the security light flickers "off," with the toggle off, the car starts. :D

    Like TK said: $100 to fix if you have someone do it; $10 (or less) to fix if you do it yourself. :shades:
  • rottie110rottie110 Member Posts: 4
    Well, I got stranded at a store on my lunch today took about 20 mins to start but it did start, dropped the car off at the dealer, with a list of dates and details about the issues, two mechanics had two different opinions,one said the tumbler and hall effect of course, the other said the fuel pump may be on the fritz, oh joy, well I will find out how bad it is tomorrow about 6pm will let you know. By the way they did ask to see my keychain, because heavy keychains can cause the tumbler to tilt after time and it wont engage the switches, apparently mine is a bit heavy. we shall see. Im not looking forward to the ignition fix at all if thats the problem.

    Has anyone had any luck with putting in an after market remote start with a passlock disable module?
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I've only had this problem once, and after it was repaired it never happened again while I had the car.
  • silv83silv83 Member Posts: 1
    :mad: I have a 03 grand am :lemon: and I went to start it one morning and the fuel pump didn't run. So I tried switching the horn relay and the fuel pump relay and it did the same thing. So I went ahead and put a OE fuel pump back into the car. Went to go try starting it after I put the fuel pump in and the car wouldn't do anything in the start position. So I tried the horn to make sure that it worked since i switched the relays and OH BOY it went off and wouldn't stop so i took the horn relay back out and left it out. It will even do this when the key is off. So I turned the key to the ON position for the ten minutes and it started right up. It doesn't have a problem running and starting now but the security light is solid all the time. The power locks won't work and the blinker relay keeps clicking. I really need help with this problem so any suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    Have you considered buying a Subaru?
  • teri7teri7 Member Posts: 1
    ok my car died on me yesterday it would crank up but the engine wouldnt ingnite my father is a mechanic and he looked at it and ran a computer threw it only thing it brought up was the a/c fuse was out. my dad further cecked to see if there was any spark comeing from the engine there was none so i called my dealer he said let it sit for 10 mins lala and so on to reset the passlock didnt work, well i grab another fuse from my other car and replaced the bad fuse was a red fuse in the engine fuse box and it started right up perhapes there interlocked some how and you are having this happen too and these ppl replace your fuse plus your engination just a thought im no mechanic but it stuned my dad. but he doesnt work on to many newer cars and maybe it doesnt just have to that certain fuse anyone could do it just wanted to give this info :) hope it helps someone and u test the vech when the car runs to with a computer.
  • rottie110rottie110 Member Posts: 4
    Just got my car back took in monday pm, For inspection to pass needed serpentine belt and lower control arm, had the injectors cleaned as per TSB, running great, even sounds different when starts, all in all, was quoted at $635, after battle with warranty company for the control arm, ended up $405 but no guarantee on the no start issue, next step coil pack, definitely not pass lock issue on mine so they say as I dont have the problem with the security light going to put after market remote start on next paycheck to bypass passlock system anyway just as a precaution, its cheaper then the whole ignition, and friend at work husband works for gm, and said that will work, as they put a bypass module in when they put in the aftermarket remote, warned to get a good quality one and have done at a reputable place however.
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