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Acura CL Care and Maintenance

mma1mma1 Posts: 1
edited September 2014 in Acura
Hello all. I have a 99 black 3.0 and I can't stop praising the thing to my friends. There is one thing I want to ask about: Ever since I got my windows tinted there is the smallest hint of wind noise coming through the passenger door when going over 65mph. I've taken it to the dealer and they keep saying its just the car breaking in, but that noise doesn't exist on my side. I'm sure that they just don't want to do some laborious task like changing the rubber seal which I suspect is wrong. What recourse do I have to get them to make it right? Just curious because I don't want to have to get nasty with my service guy.


  • 1st Generation CLs ----- hey could one of you look behind your rear licence plate --feel up above it-- i can reach my hand up there and can see some exposed wires --am i missing a cover plate? --let me know please ---
    I have almost 7500mi on my 99CL 2.3 Manual Black and am about to take it in for a tire rotation and "visual" inspection --am taking it elsewhere than the dealership --they wanted ~140$ vs. 40$ some place else ---- Id like to hear more comments about the first generation CLs --there is somuch about the 2001 --but on some other message board i saw a post about the 2002 CL so theyll get thiers soon too ---what sort of problems have you all run into with your CLs , if any, what are you doing, paying for maintenance.... etc..
    MMAL -- you could go for a highway drive with the service manager and point out the noise
  • I am beginning to think that U.S. Honda's and Acura's are better built than the Japanese. So far my 99 CL has had less problems than my 95 Integra had at 21,000 miles.

    Also, I spoke to a person who has sold cars for 16 years and read a report saying that U.S. Honda/Acura products have had less problems than their Japanese counterparts. However, I don't know where he got that info.

    Plus, I really need to wax my car, but it is white and I fear I won't be able to see the wax to get it completely off. Suggestions?

  • alan927alan927 Posts: 31
    For skip barber I went to Lime Rock, Ct also. I am surprised they didn't let you take it on the Autocross.
    The course I drove on was where you do the timed run with the Neon's and Viper's on the 2nd day.
    I did a two day course and they let us drive our cars at the very end of the day.
    Did you take the one day course, if so, that maybe why they didn't let you take the car out.

    How did you like that skidpad with the pick-up's. That was awesome, I loved doing the power slides.

    Don't worry, you will notice the waxbecause it leaves a haze on the car when it dry's, you can't miss it.
    Also, my Brother decided not to buy my CL after all so I am trading it in, Would you believe the dealer is only giving me $17,800 for the trade in ? I know the depreciation for the first year or two is hard, but I expected a little more. It's actually $500. under the wholesale book value. There reason was that Acura was giving huge discounts on them towards the end of the model year and because my car is in such great condition and the color is right, they are giving me a good number.
    Originally they offered me $17,000 even, there was no way I was taking that ! ! !
  • rgs3 ---i got interested in the 99CL in november sometime when i noticed on EDMUNDS --that there was a $2000 incentive on it --it came down to my price range more then ---and yeah i learned sometime right before the negotiation that it was made in Ohio --i payed so much attention to everything else i guess --that almost slipped by me --i was hesitent by this some-- but Honda pounded the reliability image so well --i doubted whether there could be a shoddy honda --and overall this is true --there is nothing really thats happened to disuade me of this --its got 7500mi though --i dont know what it is that makes me respect the Japanese worker over the American one --i try not to --dont want to feel that way --perhaps its that i see the way i work -and my co workers and how work is viewed here in the US (to some degree) and hey im not sure that Americans dont have the right attitude about work --why put your life into it when the top dogs are getting the money ............. anyway --i had a window rattle --windshield was rubbing against the dash --and to fix this the dealer put a styrophome strip between the window and dash-- they did this most of the length ----but where the strip ran out they put in packing like material (ripped up loose styrophome pieces that are sticking out --some have fallen down in the crack ----this made me mad --but they said theyd fix it -- i hear rattles here and there --squeaky seat --door panel feels loose --the seatbelt where it hooks into the floor plastic has fallen off --the material in the truck looks not so good --overall i am happy --i bought the car for (20370) plus paperwork for a total of 20500 ---i might be more upset if i paid full price -----what gets my goat now is the service interval charges --my dealership wants $172 for the 7500mi tire rotation and VISUAL inpection --im going elsewhere for less then $40 ---what are you all paying for service?
  • pblevinepblevine Posts: 858
    Yep, I took the one day course. My wife gave it to me as a present. It really was a gas! The skid pad IS awesome. I knew what to expect as I used to drive cars on lake ice as a kid in Wisconsin. But doing it on flat pavement, and keeping it going around that circle was an education and then a lot of fun. I really loved the autocross and those Vipers. Now that was driving!
  • hal2001hal2001 Posts: 16
    The general concensus seems to be that the standard "driving lights" on the CL are useless and serve no real purpose. I agree and want to do something to make them functional.

    Prior postings suggest amber bulbs, Platinum halogens, etc.

    I believe the way to go is 55W white halogens but I'm concerned the lamp housing/reflector/and lens might not be able to take the heat and may melt/distort. Also will the wiring take the current demand for the halogens? Anyone have any first hand experience or thoughts on this?

  • johns1johns1 Posts: 4
    I just had my 97 3.0CL in for maintenance and they changed the coolant and brake fluid. How much did they charge you? I would ask to see a revised maintenance schedule if it's changed.
  • My engine light went on (1997, CL 2.2, 67,000 miles) and car's book indicated it would be an emissions problem. While Acura dealer service rep was waiting for authorization from extended warranty company, he instead found that the problem (THROTTLE BODY part) was covered under a bulletin/(recall?) from Acura for 1995-97 models. That covered the $770 part/labor. I got the feeling that had rep not been waiting for extended warranty authorization (it was taking awhile, since company was located near CO blizzards and employees could not get to their office) and I was just a self-paying customer, he would have never thought to look this up and he may have charged me (although perhaps there is something in their computer to alert them before charging a customer). In few days since then, someone did a rearend bump on me with a bit of a scratch. I felt it was extremely easy and inexpensive to order the touch-up paint, clearcoat and primer at Car
    Touch Up Paint
    and, having never touched up before, there were also very easy online instructions that made me confident I can easily do it.
  • 22332233 Posts: 64
    I have a 97 Acura CL 3.0. On two occasions, the radio went blank. The 30 amp fuse under the hood was blown twice. The Acura service rep said he would charge $200. to look at the problem. Any ideas as to what could cause the problem. Should I buy an after market radio instead or will the same problem exist?
  • my wife's cl is overheating when the A/C is turned on. Don't the the a clue to what it could be. Its a 98 cl 2.3 automatic with a crappy transmission that lags in what seems to be third gear, an exhaust leak, and the check engine is on. i know that this is more of a troubleshooting question....but shouldn't there be a troubleshooting topic also? Doesn't feel like it belongs here in care and maintenance. thanx for reading and any ideas besides buying a new car is appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Overheating with the AC on suggests a somewhat marginal cooling system. Most cars either have a secondary fan that kicks in when the AC in on, or forces the regular cooling fan on whenever AC is on and a certain engine temperature is met.

    It is possible (sorry don't know your exact car's configuration) that this secondary fan (if you have one) is not kicking in with the AC on (easy for you to check), or that the regular fan isn't working with the AC on---also easy for you to check.

    Given that overheating can be caused by a myriad of complex issues, this is the first place to start looking.

    If that checks out, come back and we'll go from there.

    Mr Shiftright
    Visiting Host
  • Thanx mr_shiftright. i will check that out. one more question for anyone out there. when reversing my wife's car, the driver rear wheel makes a clicking noise. sounds like a ratchet clicking. only in reverse. when moving forward it is quiet. what i was thinnking is that the noise is an indicator to tell the owner to buy new brake shoes. if anyone has encountered this problem let me know. i guess i should get ready to get my hands dirty and take the drum apart. thanx everyone!
  • well..all i have to say is...imma dork. at closer look, the back of the cl doesn't have drums, my wife's car is jes really rusted. her's is from MI. so, i guess i better do a brake pad replacement and let u all know wut that clicking noise is. like i said before, clicking only in reverse. drive is ok.
  • clicking is indicator to let u know that u need to change brake pads. i changed the rear and the clicking stopped. woo-ha! :)
  • mycl30mycl30 Posts: 2
    I have AN Acura 3.0 Cl 1997. Two years ago, I had a very tiny rust came fron the inside rear wheel well. I spent $400 to fix it. The body garage tech. told me to remove the rubber protection strips on both rear wheel wells and put in the protection clear tape on the rea wheel well lips instead to prvent from the rust comes back. He said that all Honda, Acura 3.0 CL had the rust problem on the rear wheel well s.
    Now 2 years later, I have 2 more tiny rust spots on the same rear wheel well . I broughr my car back to the body shop, they said that I'd rather buy another car b/c Acura 3.0 CL has very known rust problem on the rear wheel wells. Do not waste money to fiz them since the rust come back. it is very sad to hear this.

    My car is 11 years old now. almost 86K miles. The car looks so new. I had no trouble with my car b/c I maintained it very well. It goes so smoothly. It is broken my heart to get another car and not guarantee that the other car has the rusty problem or not.

  • I'm sorry, I dont really have an answer for you...but I may have a problem that is related. The brake light on my car keeps coming on and off..It seems to be that is comes on when the car is cold but once I have been driving for a little while it goes off. But now that it is pretty warm doesnt come on ALL the time when i start the car, but may come on for a few minutes whiles I am driving ..then turn back off. My brakes work fine. Oh I have a 98 Acura CL and I have about 107k miles on it..previously I owned another 98 CL and noticed that the brake light on that one would come on occasionally as well. That car got wrecked in a car accident and a ended up getting another one, which is the one I have now. any ideas anyone? I realize it is time for a service on my car...i usually take it to the dealer but sometimes I wonder if its worth the extra money.
  • mycl30mycl30 Posts: 2
    The body shop guy told me that all Honda/Acura cars that were built before year 2000 have the same rust problem as my car. All I have to do is to remove the parts above the rear wheel wells and replace them with the new parts made specially for this kind of problem. If i knew the rust on the rear wheel well, I wont buy my car. I bought my car when it was new,
    You should take your car to a trusted auto repair shop. It saves you a lot of money. Do not go to the dealer. You should buy certified used car and have a auto. tech. to check the car before buying it. This is the reason why I will spend money to fix the rust than buy a used car.
  • I have a 2001 3.2 CL with around 135,000 miles on it. A few months ago I had my brakes checked. At the time, the dealer told me that I needed to have my rotors reshaped, but told me my brake pads were fine. (I thought at the time this was odd since the rotors really shouldn't warp unless my brake pads were worn). A couple months later, my brake warning light would very very sporadically come on for the first few minutes after I drove my car every morning. Now, it is coming on almost every morning, but only stays on for a about a mile and never comes on when I restart the car through out the day.

    Has anyone else had a similar problem and if so, was it a major repair? Clearly, I don't want to but a lot of money into my car as I planned to buy a new TL this fall.

    FYI: This is really the only issue I have had with my car after my transmission was replaced by Acura at around 30,000 miles. It is still driving and riding fine.

  • gsurfergsurfer Posts: 1
    I just got my son an acura cl 2001 and i need to replace the front left hand side motor mount , any advise or book i can get to help me with this repair ?
  • hey i hav a acura 2.2 CL and the water pump needs to be change does anyone have any info how to go about doing this i? maybe even where its located? i would like to save as much money as possible and stay away from the mechanics as much as i can. thanks for your help
  • Sorry if this was ask already. I am new to these forms.

    I have a 02 Acura CL. When the air conditioning is put to cold i get this clicking sound. I have located the motor that is causing the problem. It is under the right hand side of the dash. Any help would be great. Thanks
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