Brad; When you get the gm-part no. for the CD-changer please post the GM-part no.---Also, find out if you need to order a mounting bracket and if needed, please post that part no. Thanks
I just wanted to drop a note and mention thanks for all the info. I have been watching the post on the amp bypass and this one on the changers info and a few others.
I recently picked up my new Impala in May 9th, 01 and like it allot. Only complaints are that the stereo really needs some help. The sound from the amp is pitiful. The speakers lack strength and depth and power handling.
So, I am about to embark on updating a few things (Speakers, new amp) but I will be keeping the Stock head unit.. I know that it can't be removed without loosing allot of features. If any are interested in this just let me know. I am a audio fanatic and have been in audio competitions. I am building a Sound quality audio system. Not a boomer. If you have any questions just ask. I will answer as best as I can.
This upgrade will happen in the next month. I will be around to answer any questions about what I find in the upgrade, so that if any wish to do the same upgrade or variants of it they can know what to expect. Thanks again for all the hard work in getting allot of the info found here! Keep it up!
P.S- Does this need to be in another forum? Just let me know.
i also have a 2k impala (here in ohio) i plan on doing a COMPLETE overhall just as you are AUDIOCRAZY, but from my understanding, you have to do a "relocation" kit on the factory head unit, as it has to be installed at all times to maintain features. (keyless entry, message center, etc..) which i find as DUMB. so professionally installed im looking at $400 plus just in labor to install 2 amps, mids & highs, 2 subs, 2 1" tweets and kenwood headunit! boy would i like to get a hold of GM's engineers! i would ring thier necks!
FWIW: I just got an email back from Chuck Hutton Chevy (www.gmpart.com). They're asking US$332.88 for the 12-CD changer (part #25708970), which includes shipping and is tax-free (unless you're in TN--I'm not.) There are none currently in stock, but they can order it. The price is 15% off of the MSRP ($391.62) -- I wonder which price my local part dept will quote me?
I'm still unclear whether this is just a "plug and play" installation using the wiring harness that comes installed with the UP0 radio or not.
I'd say 15% MORE than the MSRP or $450.74! ha ha.. I still can't believe the Leather Seat Bottom is $317.00 MSRP and $277.00 from Hutton.... and that I am told is just the Bottom Cover w/out the filling/padding, although when I look at the seat it seems the Cover is sewn to the padding? Don
I already have the CD-changer (Part No. 25708970) installed in my 2000 Impala (w/ULO). I installed it myself, and if you have the 7-wire connector in your trunk it should work. All I did was plug it into the CD-changer and it worked. I do believe you will need a mounting bracket, that GM- has to order in order to mount the changer. Let us know how you make out!!
All my research indicates that you "should" be able to just plug 'n play with the factory harness. There is some dissention on this with some of the suppliers I spoke with, but overall consensus is it will work as delivered.
I asked my brother-in-law (parts manager at the dealer) to price the changer for me. He said there is NO STOCK available anywhere in North America and there is no indication when it will become available (he did say that Canada gets the short end of the stick on parts, so maybe a dealer in the U.S. will have better luck). He suggested I try to source it from somewhere else (www.mnrelectronics.com said they have it in stock). Brad
Aquaknot2000: I haven't ordered the changer yet. Heck, I've not even got my 2K1 Impala ordered yet! (Waiting for my local dealer to get an LS in so my wide-track rear end can try out the buckets). Also, re: the mounting hardware... if you've got a part # handy, I'd love to see it. It's my understanding that if the changer is dealer installed, it's covered under the car's warranty.
Bh0001: (re: connectors) I hope so. Everything I've read and seen shows the connectors being compatible, but it would sure be nice to have someone else be the acid test, not me.
The guy at my local Delphi/Delco authorized sales and service centre says he HAS installed the CD changer with a UPO radio using the factory connector and it worked without difficulty. Since they also sell Alpine/Pioneer/Sony/etc, I plan to go there for all the upgrades I want to do (speakers, amp, maybe a sub). That way I can be virtually guaranteed that everything will work. I'm willing to be the "acid test" if you're willing to wait until late May when I actually get my hands on my Impala (the waiting is killing me)! Brad
I visited my local Delphi/Delco authorized place at lunch today to talk cd changers etc. This time I spoke to the manager. Surprise surprise, I got a different story than before (see #63 above). He sang the same song as MNR electronics - the factory harness doesn't work. I shared with him stories from this forum, his reply was "we'll just have to try it once you get your car".
There really doesn't seem to be a simple answer to this issue. It appears to be almost car-dependent, based on the options you get and what phase the moon is in when the car is built.
I also spoke with him about speaker upgrades etc. He said that the factory head unit has a built in circuit that limits the amount of bass you get at higher volumes. Apparently the higher you turn it up, the less bass it produces (as a "self preservation" strategy). Again, I'll have to wait until I have the car to determine what upgrades I "need" and what is possible given the limitations of the factory system.
I'm starting to understand why Brian Smith (www.myloudcar.com) went to the "extremes" he did!
Y'know, physics is physics. Electrons work the same, whether it's your Impala, mine, or someone else's. If the head units are identical, the harnesses are identical, and the changer units are identical, the only POSSIBLE thing I can think of that would make this installation vary from car to car is the manner in which the connections between these three piece-parts are made.
AFAIK, there are only two primary interfaces to worry about... the head-to-harness interface and the harness-to-changer interface. Assuming that people can put tab A into slot B, I would guess that the installation of the changer and the "plugging it into the connector" part of the process would work 100% of the time, assuming the harness is wired correctly. This leaves the head-to-harness interface as being suspect.
D'ya think it might be something as simple as the harnesses *not* being plugged into the head units when the car is assembled? Is there any way to do a continuity check at the connector in the trunk to see if the head unit is actually hooked up?
(BTW, how d'ya like my new spiff "Antarctica" flag?)
Thanks, you're absolutely correct. Physics is physics. I wonder if the head-to-harness end of the equation sometimes gets hidden away during the installation (probably under 100 meters of electrical tape) rather than getting connected. This could easily lead the installers to think they have to jerry rig a new harness.
We know for a fact that the factory harness works (can't remember who has it working). I'll just have to wait to see how my car gets built.
Its a simple check to see if the CD plug is connected to the radio (as it should be). Check this--- Pin 5 (orange) should be 12V. Batt Pin 7 (Black) should be Ground. Pin 10 (Grey) is Class 2 Data--- Don't touch!!
After visiting MNR's website, I was uncertain whether the price quote I got from Hutton was for JUST the changer unit, or the changer AND a cartridge AND/OR mounting hardware AND/OR wiring harness, or some combination thereof. I just got an email back from Kim at Hutton:
"The changer does come with the cartridge, it should come with the mounting hardware as well, but I am not completely sure. I can not find a list for the hardware separately, so I have to assume it comes with it."
That's a plus, since the cartridge retails for $60(?). If it also comes with mounting hardware, that's an extra added bonus.
Even after reading all the posts, I'm still pretty confused concerning the availability and possibility of installing a remote DC-Changer.
Is the a remote DC-changer that can be simply installed by plugging it into the trunk receptacle and mounting the unit. If so, which one and where do I get it. I don't want to lose any features of using the steering wheel controls either.
Then you have to buy a changer from your dealer or one of the companies listed on the accessory page.
The big question has been, is this a plug and play upgrade, or does the dealer have program the head unit to "recognize" the changer? Jury is still out on that.
Thanks night_owl1. I just checked and definately have the plug there. It's in the same location as depicted in your photos. I don't quite understand the location. I don't see how mounting the changer could be possible, based on the position of the plug. I would have thought it would be closer to the vicinity of the amp or speakers, under the back shelf.
I have the cd /cassette with the useless power amp that has since been bypassed. I like the cd and the features of the steering wheel controls though I still find I use the ones on the unit just as much, still getting used to it.
Kim at Hutton is getting back to me about ordering the unit. I expect to hear from her soon.
Took the plunge fellas, it's been ordered from Hutton for 332.88 free UPS no tax, Kim says all the mounting hardware should be included, I guess we'll see!
Well its been a long while sence I'v posted around here. I just completed the frist mod to my 2000 LS. I added an Eaton M90 Supercharger. In all reality I had to change more than that though.
Next on the list is dual exhaust and SS tags.
Check out my (really bad... but going to get better) web page about the mod: http://www.lynoise.com
Well I figure if your goign to do somthing why not go all the way and do it right
Anyways it turned out very well. Lots more torque and HP!
I have to upgrade the fuel injectors though. Its running pretty lean at WOT. I have the new injectors but I cant find any connectors that fit them. My local pontiac dealership is looking into it for me.
It fits much like it was saposed to be there. I need the supercharged cover for it though. Im actually thinking of just leaving it bear anyways.. that way you can see the blower
My site will be updated shortly with more info and a video of the "first start" (as well as better navigation)
Wow, I took at look at all those pictures and I gotta say you did a hell of a good job on it - I really want to get a supercharger installed in mine, but I'm not willing to go through all that. It just looks scary. How much did you have to spend on that mod that you did? And what other parts did you have to get? Instead of going through all that work, do u know if anybody makes a supercharger that would just bolt into our LS engines?
Well I bought the charger, intake, fuel rail injectors and other odds and ends for 300 then I needed to get new heads (that was fun). This took a while to find a set of newer heads for a SC 3800. I got the set off of a 2000 Pontiac Bon. for another 300 (complete with valves and all).
As It says on my web site now though I am having a problem getting it to run correctly with the new injectors though. Time will tell. Any suggestions on how I can get my hands on a Tech 2 would be greatly appreciated.
My site has been updated a little .. more to come soon.
WOOHOO! i just got done hooking up my stereo, what a simple process. First you need the headunit relocation kit from www.metraonline.com or have your local sterep shop order it from metra for ya. should be around $30-$50.
after that its all go. i mounted my factory headunit underneath the reardeck (dash) on the drivers side next to the 6x9. i also mounted two 1" surface mount Kicker ND13 tweeters on the front winsheild posts almost facing the glass (sound bounces off the glass) and two JL Audio XR653 6.5" component sets in the front doors, i put 2 JL Audio VR690-CX 6x9's in the rear deck, powered by a Coustic 150X2, i have a Kenwood headunit, and 2 12" Kicker Competitions powered by a Kicker 1225XI (125X2) about 380 watts running to the subs, right now im hovering around 140db SPL! WOOOHOO!
Hey guys and gals, how are ya? I have a question... I am thinking of installing Dual Exhaust on my 2001 Impala LS, any considerations or comments would be greatly appreciated. I would also like to know if any of you have actually seen it or have it installed on your Impala.
I saw these at Ebay last week, and after doing a little research, I found the manufacturer's website. They make tire airvalve stem caps (in Aluminum, Chrome and Graphite) with logos on the top. And yes, they've got the Impala logo too. They're at http://www.logonuts.com
Here's a photo of one of their sets:
...a closeup of one of the caps:
...and their Impala logo:
The Aluminum is $15.95 for a set of 4, the Chrome and Graphite are $13.95 per set. They also sell key fobs which double as a tightening wrench, and sets which have a fob and 4 caps.
next time I see them on an Impala I'll have to lift them... Just kidding but seriously, that would be my main concern with these nifty little items. I can't keep the little chrome caps I bought for the car when it was new without someone stealing them... sheesh.
Roderacer, www.myhubcap.com has the Impala logo wheel caps that fit on the 16" wheels too, just like the 94-96's I haven't purchased them yet but the price is around 20.00 per cap, best price I've found btw.
Hello once again, I posted a while back that I was going to do some audio upgrading to my 2001 Impala (Sandrift metallic). Here is the fun stuff I promised.
After many conversations and decisions on this particular subject, it has come to actually buying new equipment and choosing my installer. I am currently planning to have this stereo upgrade completed in early July. Yes, it will take some time as I have to work at my real job and can't just take off to do it.
The component list if you are interested in attempting this modification is as follows:
Please be advised, this component list is not for the budget minded!!! The components are very expensive and in designing this system I have a very strong lean towards sound quality!
Front speakers- Focal 165 k2 Rear speakers- Stock Subwoofers- JL audio 12" (2) Head unit- Stock w/line converter Equalizer- Precision Power DEQ-230 Amplifiers- Lunar L100 And Lunar L200 (crossovers are built in) Misc- Stinger power and audio cables
As configured for 4ohm stereo the amps give me a total of 200watts for front and 400watts for subs. These amplifiers are very conservative in their rated power at the 4ohm rating. They will actually be pushing a bit more power than listed here.
At this time I have found that in the front doors, you can mount a mid/bass speaker that has a mounting depth of 3.5 inches with no modifications to the door (I would recommend no more than 3" depth to be safe to clear the glass when rolled down),and a speaker size of 6" but you will have to probably modify the speaker adapter present. The location of the speaker and tweeter is pretty good from a sound stage standpoint. The door will be sound deadened with several materials, to prevent resonance’s coloring the sound.
That is all that has been decided for now. The amps are ordered and on the way. The rest will be gotten a bit later just before the end of June and then the car goes in for install in the first week of July. Until then I may not have many updates.
I may put up a web site detailing the whole installation process, with pictures and the like. If you want more info.. I will be here to answer any questions. Thanks and have a great day!
They look really nice, and I'm sure they're effective at keeping chips from forming on the nose of the car. I want one.
Question time: Do they do anything for the airflow over the windshield, reducing bugstrikes perhaps? Also, is there any risk that the paint under the bra might look different after a few years when compared to the paint that's exposed all the time? Last, is there anything to worry about regarding moisture getting trapped between the bra and the car?
kenbuzz~ I have read that bras do have an effect on the paint. Not only from the sun but from particles of road 'junk' can actually scour the finish. The particles get trapped under the bra and scratch away at the paint.
Next question... what color is your Impala? I think they are sharp but am not willing to put one on my new Black LS (when I take delivery)because of the paint damage the bras cause...
A number of people have bras on their Impalas. It's all about maintance. Left alone, the bra can cause damage to the paint. Accumulated dirt/debris under the material can "sand" away the paint. Trapped moisture can also damage the paint. The sun can cause the paint not protected by the bra to fade so you get a tan line on your car.
Another option is the "clear" bra. Take a look at X-Pel's site for more info. I was thinking about it, but I got a number of chips in my hood and learned about Langka chip repair so I never pursued it.
I agree that it's all about maintenance, but what does that entail? Cleaning under the bra regularly is obvious, but I'm stumped if I can figure out what maintenance I can do to combat the effects of a tan line.
I decided to go with a smoked lexan hood guard rather than a bra on my new Navy Blue LS (take delivery on MONDAY!!) due to the concerns raised above. Got it from my dealer. Brad
Still get a "Tan Line" if your car is exposed to the sun for long periods of time, I really don't buy all of the negative stuff about the "Bra" I have used them for a long time and "NEVER" had a problem, They are :PRICELESS: when going on a long trip, when you get there you get to see all of the Dead Bugs that would be dried to your "Thin?" Paint on the front bumper, I use the Hood section everytimne I drive it(since the hood is Metal) , and put the bottom on at certain times, However for the last 3 weeks my Impala LS has been in my Garage with the Car Cover over it,""Maximum Protection"" ha ha ... My Wife and I have started Car-pooling using her '99 Z24 Quad 4 to go to work 5 days a week since Gas Prices are out of Whack.., needless to say my Impala has gone 22 miles in 3 weeks! It sure does Glisten when I take it out on the weekends. Smells New and is like a New car. Just turned 17K. Don
Interesting point. I have a lexan shield on my '98 Lumina and don't notice any "tan lines". I would think this would only be an issue where the sun is strong all year 'round (not southern Ontario!). I think the bra/bugshield thing really comes down to personal preference! In my opinion they both look nice. Brad
In the past I have used the "Bug Sheilds" on other cars, Ford Taurus and Sable, Not the Big Truck Like ones but the low profile aero ones, The one thing about those are the fact that you have to use those small round adhesive "Rubber Bumpers" at certain points where the sheild will touch the hood, at least on the Taurus,But.. You could effectivly bypass sticking them directly to your hood surface by sticking them to the underside of the Sheild, But the Sheild tends to move a bit while driving and this little rocking motion rubs the clearcoat off down to the paint, I have leared by process of elimination the in's and out's of trying to protect the front of my cars, ANYTHING is better than NOTHING, I couldn't stand 10+ chips on the front of my car, the headlight windows also get some ground in stuff, But that is not as bad as a chip in the paint. Don
I have two grey "leather" headrests to sell if anyone is interested. They are the LS type with the hole in the center, drop me an email if you're interested.
I seem to remember a while back you got the head rest with the impala logo. Is that right? if so.. I was wondering if they have a part number for them? so that I can get some with the neutral tone color to with my sandrift 2001 ls. Any help would be appreaciated!
headrest that is like the base model headrestraint. It is put on with a zipper attachment though so I'm guessing it would be rather simple to remove it and have a shop embroider it. The embroidery mentioned was on the seatback...
Comments
I recently picked up my new Impala in May 9th, 01 and like it allot. Only complaints are that the stereo really needs some help. The sound from the amp is pitiful. The speakers lack strength and depth and power handling.
So, I am about to embark on updating a few things (Speakers, new amp) but I will be keeping the Stock head unit.. I know that it can't be removed without loosing allot of features. If any are interested in this just let me know. I am a audio fanatic and have been in audio competitions. I am building a Sound quality audio system. Not a boomer. If you have any questions just ask. I will answer as best as I can.
This upgrade will happen in the next month. I will be around to answer any questions about what I find in the upgrade, so that if any wish to do the same upgrade or variants of it they can know what to expect. Thanks again for all the hard work in getting allot of the info found here! Keep it up!
P.S- Does this need to be in another forum? Just let me know.
Go to:
www.carbras.com
Good luck!
i plan on doing a COMPLETE overhall just as you are AUDIOCRAZY, but from my understanding, you have to do a "relocation" kit on the factory head unit, as it has to be installed at all times to maintain features. (keyless entry, message center, etc..) which i find as DUMB. so professionally installed im looking at $400 plus just in labor to install 2 amps, mids & highs, 2 subs, 2 1" tweets and kenwood headunit! boy would i like to get a hold of GM's engineers! i would ring thier necks!
I'm still unclear whether this is just a "plug and play" installation using the wiring harness that comes installed with the UP0 radio or not.
I asked my brother-in-law (parts manager at the dealer) to price the changer for me. He said there is NO STOCK available anywhere in North America and there is no indication when it will become available (he did say that Canada gets the short end of the stick on parts, so maybe a dealer in the U.S. will have better luck). He suggested I try to source it from somewhere else (www.mnrelectronics.com said they have it in stock).
Brad
Bh0001: (re: connectors) I hope so. Everything I've read and seen shows the connectors being compatible, but it would sure be nice to have someone else be the acid test, not me.
Brad
There really doesn't seem to be a simple answer to this issue. It appears to be almost car-dependent, based on the options you get and what phase the moon is in when the car is built.
I also spoke with him about speaker upgrades etc. He said that the factory head unit has a built in circuit that limits the amount of bass you get at higher volumes. Apparently the higher you turn it up, the less bass it produces (as a "self preservation" strategy). Again, I'll have to wait until I have the car to determine what upgrades I "need" and what is possible given the limitations of the factory system.
I'm starting to understand why Brian Smith (www.myloudcar.com) went to the "extremes" he did!
AFAIK, there are only two primary interfaces to worry about... the head-to-harness interface and the harness-to-changer interface. Assuming that people can put tab A into slot B, I would guess that the installation of the changer and the "plugging it into the connector" part of the process would work 100% of the time, assuming the harness is wired correctly. This leaves the head-to-harness interface as being suspect.
D'ya think it might be something as simple as the harnesses *not* being plugged into the head units when the car is assembled? Is there any way to do a continuity check at the connector in the trunk to see if the head unit is actually hooked up?
(BTW, how d'ya like my new spiff "Antarctica" flag?)
We know for a fact that the factory harness works (can't remember who has it working). I'll just have to wait to see how my car gets built.
I'll try to shut up about this for a while .
Brad
Check this--- Pin 5 (orange) should be 12V. Batt
Pin 7 (Black) should be Ground.
Pin 10 (Grey) is Class 2 Data---
Don't touch!!
"The changer does come with the cartridge, it should come with the mounting hardware as well, but I am not completely sure. I can not find a list for the hardware separately, so I have to assume it comes with it."
That's a plus, since the cartridge retails for $60(?). If it also comes with mounting hardware, that's an extra added bonus.
Is the a remote DC-changer that can be simply installed by plugging it into the trunk receptacle and mounting the unit. If so, which one and where do I get it. I don't want to lose any features of using the steering wheel controls either.
http://home.hawaii.rr.com/impala/Mystery_connector.html
Then you have to buy a changer from your dealer or one of the companies listed on the accessory page.
The big question has been, is this a plug and play upgrade, or does the dealer have program the head unit to "recognize" the changer? Jury is still out on that.
Brad
Kim at Hutton is getting back to me about ordering the unit. I expect to hear from her soon.
Next on the list is dual exhaust and SS tags.
Check out my (really bad... but going to get better) web page about the mod: http://www.lynoise.com
Anyways it turned out very well. Lots more torque and HP!
I have to upgrade the fuel injectors though. Its running pretty lean at WOT. I have the new injectors but I cant find any connectors that fit them. My local pontiac dealership is looking into it for me.
It fits much like it was saposed to be there. I need the supercharged cover for it though. Im actually thinking of just leaving it bear anyways.. that way you can see the blower
My site will be updated shortly with more info and a video of the "first start" (as well as better navigation)
As It says on my web site now though I am having a problem getting it to run correctly with the new injectors though. Time will tell. Any suggestions on how I can get my hands on a Tech 2 would be greatly appreciated.
My site has been updated a little .. more to come soon.
after that its all go. i mounted my factory headunit underneath the reardeck (dash) on the drivers side next to the 6x9. i also mounted two 1" surface mount Kicker ND13 tweeters on the front winsheild posts almost facing the glass (sound bounces off the glass) and two JL Audio XR653 6.5" component sets in the front doors, i put 2 JL Audio VR690-CX 6x9's in the rear deck, powered by a Coustic 150X2, i have a Kenwood headunit, and 2 12" Kicker Competitions powered by a Kicker 1225XI (125X2) about 380 watts running to the subs, right now im hovering around 140db SPL! WOOOHOO!
Check out the pics here!
http://www.memoryseller.com/pics.htm
Thanks in Advance.
Here's a photo of one of their sets:
...a closeup of one of the caps:
...and their Impala logo:
The Aluminum is $15.95 for a set of 4, the Chrome and Graphite are $13.95 per set. They also sell key fobs which double as a tightening wrench, and sets which have a fob and 4 caps.
http://community-2.webtv.net/dman4ford/00IMPALALS
Enjoy!
RR
Roderacer, www.myhubcap.com has the Impala logo wheel caps that fit on the 16" wheels too, just like the 94-96's I haven't purchased them yet but the price is around 20.00 per cap, best price I've found btw.
After many conversations and decisions on this particular subject, it has come to actually buying new equipment and choosing my installer. I am currently planning to have this stereo upgrade completed in early July. Yes, it will take some time as I have to work at my real job and can't just take off to do it.
The component list if you are interested in attempting this modification is as follows:
Please be advised, this component list is not for the budget minded!!! The components are very expensive and in designing this system I have a very strong lean towards sound quality!
Front speakers- Focal 165 k2
Rear speakers- Stock
Subwoofers- JL audio 12" (2)
Head unit- Stock w/line converter
Equalizer- Precision Power DEQ-230
Amplifiers- Lunar L100 And Lunar L200 (crossovers are built in)
Misc- Stinger power and audio cables
As configured for 4ohm stereo the amps give me a total of 200watts for front and 400watts for subs. These amplifiers are very conservative in their rated power at the 4ohm rating. They will actually be pushing a bit more power than listed here.
At this time I have found that in the front doors, you can mount a mid/bass speaker that has a mounting depth of 3.5 inches with no modifications to the door (I would recommend no more than 3" depth to be safe to clear the glass when rolled down),and a speaker size of 6" but you will have to probably modify the speaker adapter present. The location of the speaker and tweeter is pretty good from a sound stage standpoint. The door will be sound deadened with several materials, to prevent resonance’s coloring the sound.
That is all that has been decided for now. The amps are ordered and on the way. The rest will be gotten a bit later just before the end of June and then the car goes in for install in the first week of July. Until then I may not have many updates.
I may put up a web site detailing the whole installation process, with pictures and the like. If you want more info.. I will be here to answer any questions. Thanks and have a great day!
Question time: Do they do anything for the airflow over the windshield, reducing bugstrikes perhaps? Also, is there any risk that the paint under the bra might look different after a few years when compared to the paint that's exposed all the time? Last, is there anything to worry about regarding moisture getting trapped between the bra and the car?
I have read that bras do have an effect on the paint. Not only from the sun but from particles of road 'junk' can actually scour the finish. The particles get trapped under the bra and scratch away at the paint.
Next question... what color is your Impala? I think they are sharp but am not willing to put one on my new Black LS (when I take delivery)because of the paint damage the bras cause...
RR
Another option is the "clear" bra. Take a look at X-Pel's site for more info. I was thinking about it, but I got a number of chips in my hood and learned about Langka chip repair so I never pursued it.
Brad
I think the bra/bugshield thing really comes down to personal preference! In my opinion they both look nice.
Brad