Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
When the leak was present my door locks would lock and unlock while I was driving and sometimes they wouldn't lock when you put the car in gear, and they would not unlock when you shut the car off.
Now they don't lock while I'm driving, but they also don't lock when you put the car in gear and if I lock them they don't unlock when I shut the car off. Is there a specific fuse that might have corrosion on it or something like that? I can't find a fuse for just power locks. There are fuses for security, pass III and so on...
Last week the same brake light problem reappeared with center light OK and turn signals working but the two main brake lights would NOT work when I pressed down on the brake pedal. The two brake light bulbs did light up when I used a remote function like locking or unlocking the car or opening the trunk. I then searched most of the web and found one person who suggested a solution that he said sounded silly but that worked for him. I tried the solution and it also worked for me.
Seems the problem has to do with the hazard and signal switch and some kind of short. I noted many more messages on the web describing the same problem, some with even more symptoms.
Solution: My hazard signal switch was stuck in the down or off position. I carefully jiggled the switch with light upward pressure. The hazard switch button broke free after a few seconds and the 4 way flashers engaged and worked without problem. I then clicked the hazard switch on and off about three or four times. Now my brake lights work fine. It has been 5 days and the brake lights are still working without problem. Try this simple solution and see if that solves your problem. It saved me a lot of money at the dealer. My internet research says total cost to fix this problem at the dealer is about $600 ($350 labor and $250 parts). The part is a multi function or combination switch and includes turn signals, hazard, cruise control, etc. Hope this helps a little.
Randomly, but typically when the engine is first started, the ac/heat/fan/rear defogger and the headlights won't turn on. (The car has a built in sensor for the headlights to turn on automatically at dark. If I turn the light on manually, they work fine.)
The other evening, I was driving and the headlights randomly shut off (this was a first) - but again, when I turned the nob, they turned on.
I have had it to the dealers twice now and they have checked the connectors and can't find anything wrong.
Other random (electrical?) items - the passenger side stereo speaker will stop working and then work again....the "mute" button on the steering wheel when pressed, will mute the radio only for a second and then the radio starts playing again....the LCD display on the car stereo system works most of the time, but randomly won't at others.
There doesn't seem to be a common thread to any of this, day/night, heat/cold, wet/dry/humid/snow.....does anyone have any ideas on what could be going wrong and what can be done to fix it? I can live without a lot of things but the defrosters in the winter aren't one of them.....please help...thanks!
In my case this does not always happen. I can open the door and the radio will stay on, I can leave it for 10 minutes, up to hours, and it will not power off the radio. I have noticed that if I slam the door or hood that it will power off sometimes. To make the situation even more strange sometimes if I do get it to power off the accessories THEY WILL COME BACK ON in a minute or 2 which is bad because if it happens when I do not notice it I am stuck needing a jump.
The car is registering that the doors are opening and closing because the dome lights respond normally. This is just a situation where the accessory power is not being turned off.
Is there a relay switch that is involved here? To me it seems as though there may be a relay sticking or something. I am extremely technical and mechanical so please feel free to share any knowledge of this situation you may have no matter how technical it may be.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Noise in anti lock brakes on first press of the pedal soon after startup - fix: Replace/recharge battery
Rear speakers "Popping" - Fix: Replace/recharge battery
Random lights going out in the HVAC panel - Fix: lightly slam the temperature dial to the cold side repeadly until they come back on.
Rear windows randomly work/stop working - Fix: move passenger
Radio sending cryptic jibbrish on the display - Fix: Replace/recharge battery
Fan not working on levels 1-4, but working on 5 - Fix: Replace Diode behind the glove box near the fan.
Information center turning off when fan is used on levels 1-4 - Fix: Replace/recharge battery
Steering wheel lights stopped working - Fix: Replace/recharge battery
Moral of the story here is that most of the electrical problems were remedied by either replacing or recharging the battery.
The best electrical issue: I placed my aftermarket XM antenna on the trunk lid. When I drove under a certain high voltage power transmission line, the ABS, Brake, and Low Tire Pressure lights would come on and I would loose some (not all) of the power steering. I moved the antenna up between the windshield and the sun roof and the problem left.
The second best, Replaced broken factory fog lights with aftermarket lights. Replaced butt connectors on the aftermarket lights with the mate to the factory plug. When turned on, the fog lights worked on dim headlights, but not brights - normal right. However, when you have the fog lights off, switch the headlights to bright, turn the fog lights on, then switch the headlights from bright to dim then back to bright, the fog lights stay on...fishy!
Final thought: This has been a great car for the 120,000miles that I have owned it, but whomever designed the electrical system either deserves a medal or a kick in the nuts.
The first time was a couple years ago. The problem was that the gearshift would not go into park and the key would not come out of the ignition. I got so frustrated that I slammed my hand straight down on the gearshift and it worked again. Aparently, with age, the knob/park sensor will slide up the post if you grip it the wrong way to shift out of park. Basically, your Park release sensor doesn't connect, so it won't let the car come out of park if it is in, or go back into park if it is out. Normally this happens when taking the gearshift out of park while in a hurry. I played with it after that and found that if you wiggle the knob and apply some upward force, you can raise the knob up. Only go about half an inch or so, but then use the palm of your hand to kind of slap the knob back down. Don't use too much force, but you should hear it make a "thunk" sound. Then try to put it back in park.
Lifting up slightly on the gearshift and leaving it this way is also a great way to mess with the wife's head.
The other time I had this problem was when my alternator went out the other day and so the battery went dead and left me stranded. Aparently this Park sensor is electrical not mechanical because there was not enough voltage for the car to acknowledge that the shifter was in park and therefore, I couldn't remove the key. The bigger problem was that there was also not enough voltage to release the trunk lid remotely to get the jumper cables.
I couldn't get the key out to get the trunk open to get the jumper cables out to jump the car to get the park sensor to acknowledge that the car was indeed in park to get the key out to unlock the trunk manually.... You understand my frustration!
I also have a 98 CHevy K2500 Pickup. The security light on the dash would go on and off intermittantly and then got progressively worse to where the truck would be dead when the ignition was turned on. Took it to the dealership and they replaced the relay that controls that security function and the problem disappeared. The difference there though was that I had interior lights, just dead to start...different vehicle though.
One thing I found to work on the truck was that while the starting function was "dead", I could pull the security fuse and the truck would start and immediately die (this is what it was supposed to do). When I put the fuse back in, the starting function was dead again.
Hope any of this helps.
can someone please help me thanks,
Travis Ragans
fraubayer04-16-2007, 12:27 AM
Grand Prix GT 2001. AC/Heater fan not working. Replaced the fan blower resistor, didn't fix the problem. Also, when NOT working, if i turn to the fan switch to speeds 1-5 my headlights/daytime running lamps go out along with the fan not responding. Please help! Also, after I got my car back from the shop, the alarm has gone off twice in the past two days for no reason at all. Could that be related to the problem???
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
richtazz04-16-2007, 07:05 AM
Sounds like a faulty ignition switch/harness assembly. The contacts get weak and start arcing, causing all kinds of electrical gremlins. Refer to the tips and maintenance section for detailed proceedure. here's the link for convenience.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=653340
My 2001 GP has ~ 133400, only 'real' problems that I have had were this wiring harness issue that I believe has been there from the day I purchased the car new and the dealer could not find the problem. O2 sensor, caused the car to stall in traffic one evening during rush hour and a clogged Cat Converter, caused extremely poor sluggish performance.
Hope this switch/harness fixes your problems, shop around for prices... the dealer cost was $139.95 (though I got it for $77, my brother is the parts manager). I've seen them online and at NAPA I think for $75. Stan
I see some coolant by the lower intake manifold so i'm going to pull it off monday.
Does anyone know what this might be or what it might take to fix it?
Pontiac Grand Prix Window Motor replacement guide
I can't find any wires burned and the harness its self was not hot even directly after the fact.....
I forgot to mention that it is a 2005 Pontiac Grand Prix GP model with the standard AC controls (not electronic).
http://answers.edmunds.com/question_2003_Pontiac_Grand_Prix_auto_door_locks_inte- rior_lights_theft_system_quit_fuses_suggestions_407.aspx
I just bought this car from a police auctions
runs great
I just have a quick question
the digtal lights for the speed and dash lights do not work when I turn the lights on at night
and the low cool antifreeze light blinks but it has plenty
or then that the car was a great buy better then a car payment this car had been sitting since march 07 and it started right up
This seemed a little different than the other models where the blower would not work on the lower settings.
To fix the problem, you will have to either install/replace the modulator that goes to the blower. In your case, it sounds like you will have to replace the blower moter too (sorry to hear it burned up). The modulator isn't that expensive but it is a dealer item. The dealer should also be able to get you the water deflector.