Jeep Wrangler Tires and Wheels
These are the stock tires that came with my 06 wrangler x. Will they be pretty good in snow? I hate to buy snow tires if these will do the job?
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We had stock tires on our Grand Cherokee and they were pathetic in the snow. After one year driving em though, we wore through them and put on All Terrains. They were MUCH better in the snow and clawed like there was no tomorrow. That includes drives up to Mammoth Mountain along Highway 395 and the grade from Bishop to Mammoth. Never needed a chain, except as required by the CHP.
-Paul
If they are NOT the GSA's you should be okay. The GSA tires are routinely known as "Get Stuck Anywheres" so if they are not wrapped around your wheels, you're probably fine.
-Paul
AT/S Details
GSA Details
http://www.quadratec.com/jeep_knowledgebase/article-15.htm
31" diameter will obviously fit, if it's getting recommended to stock wranglers all over this forum. What mods, if any, need to be done to accomodate the extra 2" of width in the tires I want? I know backspacing plays a large role, as told by Tom in another post to this forum this past spring. Will just a new rim with different backspacing do the trick? or will fenders need to be trimmed?
Thanks, Jackson
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
P.S.
OK, it was "DIY Mods for Under $500" where you asked the ame question and where I posted a reply.
- adjust steering stop (www.4x4xplor.com/steerstop.html)
- wheels with smaller backspacing (stock is 5.5")
- add wheel spacers (like SpiderTrax)
- combination of all the above
Things you can do to fit taller tires:
- flat fenders
- Trim fenders a bit
- suspension lift
- body lift
- combination of all the above
-Paul
Fender well clearance is usually the limiting factor in tire diameter for a Wrangler, and this can be addressed by either adding a body lift, a suspension lift, or both. A body lift raises the body off the frame, thus increasing the size of the wheel opening. A suspension lift raises the frame (and the body along with it, of course) above the axles, making larger wheel openings for the bigger tires. It is not recommended that a body lift of more than one inch be installed on your Jeep.
Often, going to larger diameter tires means going to wider tires as well. In some cases, people just want a wider tire, even if they are not going to larger diameter tires. In either case, it is commonly asked. "What is the widest tire that I can put on my Jeep?"
This is where wheel backspacing comes into play. For tires of equal width, the backspacing of the wheels being used determines how close to the frame the tire will run. The higher the backspacing, the more the tires are "pulled in" toward the frame, and the lower the backspacing, the further to the outside, away from the frame, the tires will run. The use of tires too wide for the amount of backspacing of the wheels will cause rubbing of the inside sidewalls of the tires on the spring perches in the rear and on the comtrol arms in the front.
Most factory wheels that are used on Wranglers have 5.5" of backspacing, which is quite a bit. This much backspacing limits the tires to a maximum width of 10.50" Sometimes, even with 10.50" wide tires, the steering stops must have washers installed on them to prevent tire rub at full turn. That is a very simple thing to do and should not stop a person from going with the 10.50" tires.
Backspacing of around 4.0" is good for most tire widths that are commonly used on Jeeps with lifts and larger diameter tires.
Take a look at the diagram below. This should clear up the concept of backspacing for you.
Please, come to the discussion "Jeep Wrangler," which is the general discussion thread for Jeep Wrangler owners. We have a great time in there talking about our Jeeps and the fun we have with them. We always give new folks a warm welcome. There are over 22,000 posts in there, so SOMEBODY must like it.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Thanks,
Diego
...wave...
QUESTION FOLKS: HOW DOES THE MUD TA COMPARE TO THE ALL TERRAIN IN NOISE, STREET TRACTION AND WET TRACTION?
THANKS ALL,
Diego
...life is good
-Paul
Personally, I prefer a narrower tire generally, and if I was going to a 33" I'd consider a 9.50 or 10.50........... but that's just me. :shades:
I was thinking of going with 33x10.5 with 3inch lift. (do i need new rims??)) Either 3inch suspension or Skyjacker 2" Spacer Lift with 1inch body lift.
33x10.5's will fit just fine on stock wheels (mine are the 33x12.5" variety). You will need about 3" of total lift to make it happen, so your lift options are good (I like that you are avoiding bigger than 1" on BL).
I, along with mac24 and tsjay, run the OME suspension system, which gives ~2.5-3" of lift (I got 3.25), that with the 1" BL looks and rides great, both on and offroad. However, the OME is a bit pricier, but I firmly believe you get what you pay for. I've heard mixed reviews about Skyjacker. Rubicon Express or OME are the only ones I'd consider for a short arm suspension lift. Long arm is another story and a lot more C-Notes.
Here's my 97 with the lift, tires, and wheels.
The size is a great compromise for offroad ability and onroad comfort (and being fairly easy to still get in).
-Paul
If you're on 29s now 33s will bring you up 2", then add 3"-3 1/2" for a lift. If you have 6" or more clearance now, you should be good to go.
-Paul
I've got a 98 TJ 4.0L with 31x10.50 BFG ATs on stock rims. I just got some black Cragar 342 series 15x8 rims with 4" of backspacing. What's the max tire width I can run on these w/o any kind of lift? (no extra cash for that, lol)
If I do need a body lift, what kind/size is recommended?
Thanks!
Evan
are you saying that i can go up to 33x12.5 on the stock rims if i get enough lift? i thought max tire width on stock rims was 10.5?
Also you have a total lift of around 4" right? so if i go with just 3" will 33x10.5 fit without rubbing? and the 33x12.5 could fit on stock rims but would rub with just 3" lift?
Keep in mind, I DO have stock rims, but I also have 1.25" wheel spacers behind em - which gives me an effective BS of 4.25".
An 8" wheel can handle 12.5" wide tires easily and actually makes a pretty good combination.
I don't know anybody with 33x10.5's so can't really address that, but as long as you have sufficient lift, I would THINK they'd work on the stock wheels with minimal rubbing while turning or when offroad.
Rubbing occurs in 2 places.
1 - tires to swaybar or spring perches when turning (usually full turning lock).
2 - tires being stuffed into the wheel wells/fenders when offroading.
1 is usually a function of tire width and backspacing
2 is usually a function of tire height in relation to lift height.
-Paul
Can I change to 17" by 7 1/2" Chrome Wheels without lift?
The tires I would like on the wheels would be either
1)Goodyear Fortera P245/65R17 or
2)Goodyear Eagle P255/60R17.
Will these wheels and tires work? and if so what is the best option or is there another option? (note: FYI, the wheels I'm getting free from my brother so I can't change wheels).
Thanks.
Eagles are a performance on-road tire, but if you stay on-road that's not a problem.
I want to beef it up a little and put bigger tires on it. I was thinking going maybe 32's or 33's do I need to lift my Jeep for tires that big? I have Dana 44 heavy-duty front and rear axles if that matters. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Many love the OME (Mac24, tsjay, and I all have it) for its onroad ride (many say better than stock, I agree), and it's nice flexing capabilities offroad. It is pricier, but with lifts, you often get what you pay for.
Rubicon Express is another good one. I've also heard many good comments about Rusty's Offroad (located here in AL) having a nice ride and flex.
Keep in mind, if you go bigger than 3-4", you have to worry about other issues (drivelines, steering geometry, etc), so a 2-3" suspension lift with a 1" body lift will be a GREAT way to get that Rubicon up in a decent manner.
-Paul
I have a Jeep Unlimited and also want to "beef" it up. I was also considering 33" tires.
A few more questions:
- Why a 2" suspension lift and 1" body? Why not just a 3" suspension?
- Any issues with driving at higher speeds (60-70mph) with a lift like this?
- If I went 33 I was considering the BFG All-Terrain. Any opinions?
- AND.. last but not least, for those of you who had your Jeep lifted, what was the overall cost? I'm in the Chicago area...
Thanks!
:shades:
-Paul
- You may have your axles shift to one side more
- You may have to change your pitman arm, which alters the steering geometry and can lead to more uncontrollable steering (death wobble)
- If you go too big on the suspension lift, the control arms will be too short. The stock control arms are good to about 3" or 4", but any larger, and you REALLY need to go long arm or run the risk of an unstable/uncomfortable Jeep.
- Cost
- Center of gravity
A 2.5" lift or so will cost a bit less (normally) and minimally impact axle centering and steering geometries. Also, if you think of the control arms as the radius of a circle, with a smaller lift, the axles and wheels rotate down and 'in' towards each other. A higher lift will bring them in a bit more, leading to a possibly harsher ride. A SWB TJ is bumpy enough.
Larger lifts will impact them more.
While a 2.5" lift will fit 32's no problem, 33's will really fit nicely with that 1" Body lift, and 33's are about the ideal size for a daily driven Unlimited, IMO.
That body lift also keep the frame lower, giving a better center of gravity (lower). That will help stability in turns. A body lift also opens the door for other mods, such as a tummy tuck to raise the transmission.
As for the cost of the lift, I did the work all myself, but I bought the DPGOffroad Basic kit, and have since pieced together the body lift, motor lift, adjustable trackbars front and rear (to recenter the axles), and the quick disconnects for the sway bar for offroad articulation. That would be the ultimate kit on Dirk's www.dpgoffroad.com site.
If you guys end up using him, just let him know Paul in Alabama referred ya. I don't get any discounts from him, but I like to let him know I'm keeping my word of letting people know about his EXCELLENT service and products. My entire suspension and lift is from him, as are all my headlights and driving lights (IPF).
Even with my TJ being a 4cylinder, I have NO problems at highway speeds (up to about 78 or so).
33" BFG AT's would be great for Chicago, but I'm not sure how well they handle winter snow/ice. I hear the Mud Terrains actually handle it better and I know a LOT of people who use the BFG MT's on their TJ. While they may be a bit noisier, I kinda like the road noise my Jeep makes. I have TrXuS Mud Terrains, but ran the 30" variety of the BFG AT's prior to that.
And before you ask, the quick disconnects allow better articulation offroad and give better flex, like this:
-Paul
1) Will my stock 3.73 gears(4.0L/auto)be good enough for the much heavier 33" tires? Currerntly I have the stock 30" tires and I feel the power is very good.
2) the stock wheel lug toque is at 90lb(I think). Do we stick with the same torque spec when switching to a larger and heavier tire??
Lug nut torque will remain the same. It's related to size, construction, and loading of the wheel rims and the location hardware.
One other question - probably a silly one - but.. did you get 4 33" tires and keep the stock on the back, or did you get 5? Also, if I kept the stock as my spare, and a 33 went flat, what - if any - harm would it do to my Jeep to drive on 3 33" and one 30 to the nearest tire shop?? (besides looking extremely dumb).
Thanks again!
Differentials like to work for short periods at a time only.
Regarding the bumper issue, you can get an adapter to move the spare up and out on the standard tire carrier. However, your solution is the best one long term.
-Paul
Spend the $$ at the beginning and do it right or pay $$$$$$ and fix it to the right way later.
Seriously. I'm not trying to be a wise alec, but different size tires is BAD for vehicles.
-Paul
I got a Teraflex spare tire relocator from Bob Supplee in OKC for about 25.00 or so and it moved the tire up/out so it cleared the bumper. Problem is, it wasn't up against the gate, so I ran the risk of weakening the gate itself. It was a stopgap fix until I got the carrier, which works SOOO much better.
I got a deal from the vendor where he credited me basically the plain bumper price and I returned it to him. He sent me one with the hinge pin for the carrier and a full carrier for just the difference between the two bumpers.
-Paul
Is it(chaning gears) a possible do-it-your-self item with no experiece and only regular tools?
Yes.
........with no experiece and only regular tools?
No.
You could do it, but if you do it wrong, you'll grenade the differential. Spend the $$ and find a good installer. A local 4x4 club could probably point you in the direction of a good installer (perhaps even a club member who works cheap).
-Paul
- 5 new 32x11.5 BFG AT's, plus installation
- 2.5" OME lift plus installation
- Bestop Oversize Tire Carrier - I may try and install myself.
I think I'm going with the 32" tires and a 2.5 lift rather than 33"'s.
OK - so now one more question about backspacing. It seems like there's 2 was to do it: Either a new rim comes with its own backspacing, or if you stay with the stock rims you do your own backspacing with washers. So, if I'm going from 30x9.5 tires to 32x11.5 tires:
- 1. If I stick with my stock rims, what backspacing is needed, and do most tire places agree to do this during the installation of the new tires.
- 2. If I buy new rims, I see many come with their "own" backspacing. I'm assuming this means I wouldn't need the washers. What backspacing should I get on a new rim?
thanks again for you help, I really appreciate. After this I think I got all my questions answered and will get going on the lift!