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Jeep Wrangler Tires and Wheels



  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I tried one. It will raise and push out your tire. Result is that you have to bumpstop the tire against the gate with some kind of spacer as well. If not, vibrations will make your gate's life MUCH shorter. I did NOT like it.

    As for the 3rd brake light, you could probably leave it as it sits, or you could remove it, add a few washers to move it up in height, and have it work fine.

    I opted for a 3rd party tire carrier as I was going with aftermarket bumpers anyway for offroad use. Provided stronger tire support and body protection. The 3rd brake light is incorporated into the wheel holder (where the center cap usually is).

  • karlw90karlw90 Posts: 59
    If I can move up the brake light an inch, and buy a bumper that has a "dip" in it to allow for the extra tire length, can't I just us the OEM tire carrier?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Technically, yes.

    But consider this - how much does that 32x11.5 weigh? Believe me, it is more than you think. That weight, over time WILL affect the hinges and sheet metal holding the tailgate on. Over time, it WILL sag. Maybe not as fast because it rests on the bumper, but opening it up removes that support.

    The Bestop Tire Carrier actually attaches to the tub, reinforces it, and attaches to the door, so there is no separate carrier to open - it opens with the door. It was actually my first choice for tire carrier before I opted to go with an offroad bumper/carrier combination. Plus it will work up to a 35" tire AND it uses the OEM 3rd brake light setup. So it can grow with you and the Jeep's size, if you opt to do that.

  • tracy3999tracy3999 Posts: 10
    Im starting to have the Bad Death wobble!!! I have 2004 jeep wrangler sport.. It does not have a lift kit on it.. the only thing the tires are a little bigger than the orginal once that came with the jeep!! My jeep only has 18,000 miles on it!! When i first bought it i had know problems with it, after a month or so.. it has started to bounce out of control just when i hit 50, 55 miles an hour!! Im sooo sad i love my jeep and not sure what the problem is.. i have heard many people talk about the death wobble but know one really knows why.. or gives a real solution why this is happening !! I have just dropped it off to a jeep dealer and they said that they have never heard of this problem!! Great .. i can only imagine what this is going to cost me!!! Is their any one out their that can give me a reason not a run around? Thank you soooo much.. Please help..
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    There are a lot of posts on this and the Jeep Wrangler thread about 'death wobble'.

    If you are not lifted, I would suspect either the tires are seriously out of balance and/or alignment. Easy fix - get em balanced and aligned or replace with better tires. Other causes may be loose steering components (tie rod, drag link, etc). If the dealer hasn't heard of death wobble, chances are you should find another dealer to work with. It can happen. Another possibility could be the tie rod ends and the holes they mount into are not as tight as they should be.

    You may also want to make sure your control arms and shocks are all in good order. A competent mechanic should be able to find loose or worn steering components.

  • sgreer721sgreer721 Posts: 1
    I have the same issue with the shaking at 50-55 mph. '04 Wrangler w/Rocky Mountain package, no lift kit or modifications. I had the steering damper replaced at 39,000 miles and it was fine. Now at 51,000 miles, it is starting to do it again. The alignment is fine, tires are balanced. The mechanic at the Jeep dealer now says its my tires (Goodyear Wrangler GS-A) and not my steering damper. Same tires since day one. I have asked them to check bushings, tie rods, etc and they shake their head at me with that "you are a girl so you have no idea what you are talking about" look. :mad: Anyone else have problems with these tires or does Jeep just make shoddy steering dampers?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Steering dampeners/stabilizers only mask the issue and will not be the cause.

    The GSA's COULD be a problem as some tires just come the factory out of round and no balancing or aligning will stop that.

    Checking the bushings, TRE's, and all joints in the steering for looseness (including the trackbar mount on the frame) are all valid things to check.

    Get rid of those GSA's and get some BFG AT's (if you're staying on road) and hopefully things will be better.

  • sahara991sahara991 Posts: 1
    This is my 1st jeep..99 sahara. It came with mud tires that are pretty well spent & want to put something that is good for road mostly, not so noisy & rough, it has 16" rims & 3" lift on it. What do you suggest???
  • matt1320matt1320 Posts: 20
    My '00 TJ was ordered with optional 30x9.50 R-15 GY GSA's on 15x8 alloy wheels. The factory tires were making "growling" noise and thumping when at cruising speed. Problem was diagnosed by mechanic, and concurred by tire dealer, as broken belts in 3 of 4 tires on ground. The GSA's slipped in the rain and offered no traction in the snow. The GSA's were replaced at 32,000 mi. in 2-'03 with 31x10.50 R-15 BFG AT K/O's (including spare). The BFG's were chosen due to positive experience with them on my previous '92 YJ. The 31's fit the TJ well, only minor tire rub on lower control arm when at full turn lock. Four 31's were replaced in12-'07 at 90,000 mi(balance & rotate at each oil change). It is a reasonable compromise to a highway tire and a mud tire. It also meets the Rubber Manufacturer's Assoc. Severe Snow Condition criteria and wears the mountain/snowflake badge on the side wall. Other tires that have this rating are the Goodyear Fortera TripleTred, General Grabber AT2, and ProComp All Terrain. Steering stabilizer and shock absorbers begin to fade around 50,000 miles. If not doing anything "extreme", the premium Gabriel or Monroe units will be a marked improvement over stock. Hope my rant helps.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    My experience has been the same. Factory fitted 30x9.50 R-15 GY GSAs replaced at 30K with 31x10.50 R-15 BFG AT K/Os which will shortly be replaced at 90K. My rotation and balance schedule has also been every 3K

    An excellent tire on virtually all surfaces, on and off road, wet or dry, except for deep or squishy mud.
  • I just bought a used 2003 Wrangler X....I'm a newbie to these multi-faceted man mobiles....for now. In anycase, my current tire size is the stock 215 75R15, and I'm thinking of upgrading to 31x10.5x15 without lift. Does anyone know what else needs to be done to ensure a smooth ride? I've heard the gear ratio will change and there is something we can do about that (a sensor in the transmission needs to be changed), but no one seems to know exactly what - - not even the JEEP Dealer!! Please elaborate if you know.....Thanks.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    31's won't be that big of a deal. 30's were available options from the dealer. Your gear ratio will not change, but your performance may be slightly impacted.

    There is a speedometer gear you can change out. It is based on your tire size and your differential gearing. Likely you have 3.73 gearing in your differential. There are several speedometer gear charts/applications on the web that will tell you what you need. Generally, with a 1" change, it won't be a big deal as far as accuracy.

    I'm not sure what the stock tooth count is for a 3.73-geared TJ. Your invoice/build sheet will tell your stock gearing (assuming it hasn't been changed).

    As a comparison, I have an SE geared at 4.10 stock. I was on 30's and the speedo was off (geared for 28" tires). I regeared to 4.88 and added 33's. My speedo gear is actually more accurate than it was with the 30's. :)

  • Thanks Paul,
    When you say "regeared", do you mean just changing out the speedometer gear? Or is there some way to re-calibrate the speedometer to meet the demand of the bigger tires?

    By the way, where can I purchase a speedometer gear?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Regearing can take place in the differentials. THAT regearing will affect the perceived power. 3.73 gearing and bigger tires will make your Jeep feel slow and underpowered.

    Another regear can take place in the speedometer gearing attached to the transfer case. THAT regearing will not affect power. All that does is make your speedometer reflect correct speed. It works in conjunction with your differential gearing and tire size to ensure proper speed and odometer readings.

    Usually you can get speedometer gears from the dealer from $15 to 30, depending on the number of teeth you need for your tire/gear setup. Given that you only have 31's on there right now, the effects of the larger tire size on power and speedometer accuracy would be minimal. If you have a handheld GPS, drive with it and see how your speed is on the GPS vs the speedo. Save the $$ if you can. :)

    Just a note, Rubicons use a different speedometer sensor and it is NOT a gear. It is electronically set and a bit more complicated to do.

    Here is a writeup for changing the speedometer gear yourself. It is VERY easy.

  • we just bought our first jeep a 2008 wrangler and the stamped steel wheels have to go so my question is if i change wheels will i have a low pressure light staying on? thats not really acceptable how have other owners dealt with the problem. the people at the dealership dont really seem too helpful. they really dont seem to want us changing anything.
  • Will 33" tires fit on a stock '06 Wrangler?
  • So i take it no one has chenged the wheels on a Wrangler with the tire pressure monitoring yet!
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Probably need to drill holes in the wheels to fit a TPMS or they just get moved from one wheel to another.

  • ricleericlee Posts: 8
    I recently bought an '06 Wrangler Sport which is all stock. On the 2nd day I had it I experienced the DW. After the thrid day of owning it I took it to the dealer. Well this guy obviously thought since I'm a gal, I don't know anything mechanical. He was amazed that being a gal and 58 yrs old I'm actually driving a standard shift. I happily informed him that I drove semi for 10 yrs and have been behind the big wheel for a total of 23. That shut him up.

    Anyhow, they changed the damper at no charge do to the warranty but charged me $87 for rotate and balance.

    My boss called a local used Jeep dealer who explained the problem. Chrysler changed out the steering system and I need to install the Rugged Ridge Steering on it. He sounded very convincing. The only problem is that parts and labor will be $330.

    I've been writing to various consumer organizations in hopes that I can start the ball rolling for a class action suit. Chrystler is denying the fact that they are producing many faulty Jeeps that can one day result in a death. I want to do something before that day comes.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Stock Jeeps having DW is indeed rare, but has happened. Was this 06 brand new? Just curious.

    I have a 97 TJ and I've never had DW, though I've had some tire/wheel setups that were out of balance or round. That combo got relegated to the spare carrier. :) Other than that, even lifted 3" with 33's, I'm doing okay with NO death wobble.

    I have aftermarket swaybar disconnects, aftermarket trackbar (both JKS), and I have a Grand Cherokee (ZJ) tie rod with new ends. Even with all that change, everything is still running great. And I have the stock steering stabilizer on (which is more of a bandaid/mask than anything).

    The steering setup for a Jeep has always been a questionable design and a LOT will depend on the draglink and trackbar being parallel. If they are parallel, more than likely it is an issue with one of the joints in the setup (tie rods, track bar ends, drag link connection, or even possibly bad ball joints on the steering knuckles (which I would NOT suspect on a 2006).

  • ricleericlee Posts: 8
    No, I bought it used with 24,600 miles on it. I've read where others have had the same problem and the owner of X-Treme Jeeps of Tampa (FL) is a friend of my boss. He explained that I have to go back to the 'rigid' steering that Jeeps had before the changing of design.

    It hasn't done the DW since Chrysler changed out the damper but as you said, that is merely a temporary 'fix'. After the last time is did the wobble I have become a bit frightened of it. I have yet to read where someone has had an accident during the DW and I sure don't want to be the first.

    My friend also has a '97 with a 3" body lift kit and larger tires. He reports that he never had the problem and he even takes his off road quite a bit.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Mine goes offroad a bit too, though not as much lately. :)

    Instead of going with a factory setup, you MAY want to consider some aftermarket steering setups. Currie makes an EXCELLENT one and may be worth doing. I'm a firm believer that the auto companies have great designs, but the aftermarket improves on them even more.

    3" body lift? UGH. A body lift will not really alter the steering geometry a bit other than the steering shaft to the steering box. I'd suggest a 2" budget boost and 1" body lift. It'll look a lot better (smaller gaps between frame and tub) and IMO be safer than the 3" body lift.

  • jim225jim225 Posts: 11
    I also experienced the death wobble a few times over the last year in my stock 2003 Sport that I bought new. It has never been off-road, hardly ever been dirty, and only has 13,600 miles on it. I had a Ford Festiva that I drove harder than my Jeep! Anyway, I was convinced that the problem was tires because the car alway started to shimmy at 50 to 60 mph. I did replace the steering damper and this seemed to help but not for long and the wobble was still there. This week I went in to buy new tires but asked for a check of the track bar first since I understand it can cause the problem. The track bar did have a very, very small amount of play in it and I had it replaced still convinced the problem was tires. I've driven the car for a couple of days now, hit all of my favorite bumps that set it off in the past and not only does the wobble seem to be gone but the "tire" shimmy as well. I'm not sure why the track bar would fail on a car that was hardly driven but hopefully I've got my practically "new" Jeep back.
  • ricleericlee Posts: 8
    You mentioned "aftermarket steering setups" and I was wondering if you mean what my bosses friend at X-Treme Jeeps of Tampa, FL told me ......... go back to the 'rigid' steering. Forgive my ignorance here.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    When you said "rigid"I thought that was a brand. I know of no steering upgrades for the Jeep from the factory other than using components from other Jeep lines. I have a 98 Grand Cherokee tie rod (thicker and more solid), but that is it as far as OEM parts go that I've replaced.

    There are vendors out there like Currie.

    It is an upgraded tie rod and drag ling setup.

    There is also an option called HiSteer by a company called ORO. But this is mainly for offroaders to move the tie rod assembly up higher to avoid rocks and such.

    The Currie setup is supposed to be pretty good.

    That said, IF the problem lies with the trackbar setup and being loose at the axle end, the Currie setup won't fix this.

    Here is a picture of the steering components identified clearly. THOSE are the components you want to look at to resolve the death wobble. SOMETHING is loose somewhere, you have bad tires, or some bushings are worn out. While you shouldn't expect it on a newer TJ, it can happen.


    You can see that the trackbar and drag link are pretty much parallel in the pic above. THAT is key for death wobble prevention. If they aren't fairly parallel, you will have problems. (BTW, those sway bar links are aftermarket. Stock will not look like that).

    Hope that helps some. I've diagnosed a few loose spots on people's Jeeps and solved the cases I've come across, but it is a LOT harder over the net.

  • ricleericlee Posts: 8
    Okay then, let me ask you this ..........

    1- I don't see the damper on your picture, therefore I assume your steering is set up different than mine. Correct?

    2- If I do the checking for loose nuts, tec how will I know that I'm not tightening something that may be an adjustment?

    You see, I really don't have the money to take this in for others to work on it. I suppose I will need to eventually though because it's beyond me.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    The steering stabilizer (dampener) just isn't pictured or it is behind the drag link. That is not my Jeep. That is from's website - a GREAT site for basic DIY maintenance and upgrades.

    My steering setup is stock with the exception of aftermarket swaybar disconnects (like those shown in the pic), aftermarket track bar (made by JKS), and a tie rod for a Grand Cherokee (since it is thicker and stronger). Geometries are 100% the same though.

    For checking the loose nuts, have somebody sit behind the wheel. Start the Jeep. Have them slowly steer back and forth at your command.

    1. Check the joints for the trackbar (frame and lower passenger axle). If there is any movement, they need to be tightened down.
    2. Check the tierod ends. If the do anything OTHER than rotate the bar a tiny bit (ie there appears to be play), tighten em down.
    3. Check the drag link ends. If it is loose at the steering box, tighten as best you can.
    4. If you can jack up your front a bit so wheels are off the ground, do that. Then grab the top and bottom of the tire and see if you can 'rock' the wheel back and forth. It may have a tiny bit of play, and that is normal. If it seems excessive, your ball joints may be toast.
    5. While it is jacked up, grab one end of the axle and see if you can 'rock' it forward and back. If you can move it excessively, your control arm bushings may be worn and may need replacement.

    Most likely, you'll find one of those to be the case.

    As for tightening down, a torque wrench is a GREAT investment and you can find them at harbor freight fairly inexpensively. You can also pick up a Haynes manual from places like Autozone for about 20.00. I'm not mechanically inclined when I started, but now have no problems working on my Jeep at all.

  • ricleericlee Posts: 8
    Thank you for the tips. I do have a torque wrench that I bought from Harbor Freight about 5 years ago. I'll do the checks you listed. Hope you'll be around because I think I'll be needing a crash course in Jeep fixer-uppers.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I'll be around. I could give you my email if that would help. I posted it in the regular Jeep Wrangler forum in response to a new Jeep for a teen.

  • ricleericlee Posts: 8
    Yes, I would really appreciate it if you would give me your email address or direct me as to where I can get it. I have lots of questions about this. I owned only one Jeep before back in the early '70s and that was a CJ-6 with a 350ci, 4bbl carb. I really loved that thing but had to sell it since I was doing more and more highway driving at the time. My son (about 3 1/2 yrs old at the time) and I used to do a lot of off road antics and mudding. That Jeep had nice tight steering and was very stable. Of course it was larger than what they have now-a-days but I'm not complaining about that. LOL

    Anyhow, I want to learn as much as I can about this newer one. I sent off for a repair manual but it only goes up to 2003. I didn't think they had changed much up to '06 so I ordered it.

    Before I go on, I want to explain that I'm merely an old woman (58) who tries to do my own wrenching as much as possible. In my younger years it was more fun than anything else but these days with the prices repair shops charge and the awful rip-offs, I find I am in 'need' to do my own work when I can. I hope this fact (that I'm a woman) doesn't turn you off on helping me out.

    Later on I want to learn how to make my own cold air induction system hoping to gain a little more horsepower and maybe save a tad on gas useage.

    I do want to tell you that I appreciate your offer. Thank you!
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