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On the 2006 Hybrid, it is under the side storage box on the driver's side in the cargo area floor. Remove the spare tire cover in the center of the floor. Remove the cover of the side storage box, remove the plastic box (I had lots of fun with that).
My question. Do you have this configuration in the USA?
If so does anyone know of a way to connect up an AUX audio link for an iPod.
I know I can use a FM transmitter but I have found the sound quality less than ideal in this config and am interested in a hard wired connection.
Thnx.
I saw your post and was curious if I bring your note to a stero installer shope with all the parts you have recommended, do you think they would be able to do the work/installation for me. If you live in the Pasadena Los Angeles area, can I pay you to do the installation?
karen
I just recently installed a disc changer in my 04 (without the navigation) and it's easy to take out the factory radio. Just pry the silver plastic trimming with your fingers. Go around it slowly. When you get it off, there are 6 size 10mm bolts. Remove this and then pull out the radio, then plug your wiring. Then revese the steps to re-install. It will just take around 10-15 minutes. I work in old town so If you need help in the installation, I will be glad to help you out (at no cost). The back of the 03 and up factory radios are the small 12 pin plugs. Installation is all it's all plug and play. I got my interface and extension cable online from these sites:
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yow
Does anyone know if anything similar to that is available for the Highlander? Or has anyone had something like that custom-made?
Thanks for any tips.
But maybe there's a way to make it work, I just don't she how.
I don't doubt that they could and would, but as Yowmah said, it's pretty darn easy. That being said, there is a "hard part"- adding the additional cig lighter behind the dash. Granted it's not difficult, but it does require some basic electrical knowledge, of which mine is limited, but enough. You need to find a ground (a bolt on the base of the steering column was my choice).
If you don't feel comfortable doing the work, I'd be glad to help. I'm in West LA, but often make the trek to Pasadena, so it ain't no big thing.
I'll check more often than monthly for a response, as I know how it feels to be iPodless while driving.
b
Thanks!
http://www.allfortrucks.com
The bars were spaced far enough apart that you would not feel closed in. They continually have sales on this site of 15%-25% off so I would wait for a sale. Sign up as a VIP member and you will be notified. I just got some vent shades for the windows there at 25% off last weekend.
I am in the process of ordering and installing a new audio system but I wanted to make sure I could access the amp and utilize the existing wiring. The carpet runs from the rear cargo deck all the way up the backs of the back seat and it does not look like it will come off without ripping or cutting. I tried to remove the section of deck that is attached right behind the backseat but I cant seam to get it out. I'm afraid I will have to take all the rear panels out.
The easiest method seems to be to remove the carpeted backing on the back seat then remove the seat but the backing looks like it is attached with adhesive, no scews besides the two that attach clips for the cargo cover.
Landriver, I know you have posted on the fafctory amp and if you have any details on how you got to it I would appreciate the help.
Thanks :confuse: :confuse:
Also anyone have a bug deflector...do they help a lot with the bugs or just serve to look sporty and nothing more??
Also any recommendations on the best product to use on the leather seating surfaces in the HL? I want to keep them looking good for a long time and keep them soft and supple as well.
Since our HL was purchased used we did not get the perks that you sometimes get with the new purchase like samples of carwash or leather treatments. At least we got some of this stuff when we leased our '96 Avalon, maybe they don't do that anymore, not sure.
Thanks, I have found these forums to be very helpful for info on the HL, both before and after purchase.
(Other options:
1. When you gain access to the row of plastic snaps along the aft section of the passenger area carpet, see if you can detach the two outermost plastic snaps somehow without removing the large rear wheelwell plastic panels; possibly with a large screwdriver; the wheelwell panels may have to be at least loosened. Alternately, cut the carpet along the perimeter of the wheelwell panel lip.
2. Simply make an "X" or "H" slit in the aft section of the passenger area carpet where it is vertical behind the second row seat; the amp (if I'm remembering correctly) is about a third of the way from the right side of the vehicle. See second paragraph of post 698 for reference.
3. Instead of physically accessing the factory amp, bypass the wiring going to it. (Unless if you have a really small aftermarket amp you won't be able to fit it in this area anyway; I put mine under the front passenger seat.) Specifically there's a harness under the right front and rear door scuffplates providing power and signal to the factory amp that can be intercepted here, and the lines going from the amp to the front and rear door speakers can likewise be intercepted. See posts 632 and 738 for reference.)
theresnothing at verizon dot net
You are saying that the 7" wide or so strip of carpeted cargo area right behind the 2nd row seat will actually unsnap? I was trying to get that out today but I thought it was adhesive holding it in and didn't want to rip it out. I have no problem cutting the carpet that is below and behind the back seat if I can get the back seat out of the way.
From your previous post, you were saying that the bundle of wires under the front passenger scuff plate is the run going to the amp from the HU right? So if I tap there then I will have to go to the amp and patch all the speaker runs to the other side of the amp harness right?
When you referenced the amp on the "right" side, you did mean passenger side right?
I sure wish the backseat didn't drop down when you lay it flat, I would like to mount the new amp there but there is no room when it drops.
Also, did you need an adapter for the antenna on your new HU or is it a standard plug?
Thanks for your help Landdriver!
You are saying that the 7" wide or so strip of carpeted cargo area right behind the 2nd row seat will actually unsnap?
Yes, that 7" section is hinged. The cargo deck carpet is glued to the cargo deck pressboard; run your fingers under the pressboard and firmly lift up -- at first it might seem like the pressboard is going to break but as long as you are careful it should unsnap; start from one end, there are maybe 5(?) snaps along the length of it. After doing this and then after unsnapping the back seat carpet (those black snaps are way more stubborn than the cargo deck snaps), you should be able to remove the back seat (I forgot to mention in my previous post that the right second row seat needs to be removed to ultimately get at the amp).
From your previous post, you were saying that the bundle of wires under the front passenger scuff plate is the run going to the amp from the HU right?
Right.
So if I tap there then I will have to go to the amp and patch all the speaker runs to the other side of the amp harness right?
Not necessarily luckily. Three of the four speaker wire pairs also run along the right rear door scuffplate. If you remove the factory amp then the speaker lines will no longer be driven and you can tap into the speaker wires at the scuffplate or any other point you choose. With some creative jumpering of the connector at the factory amp and splicing of speaker wires along the scuffplate I was able to tap into all four speaker wire pairs at this scuffplate; see paragraph beginning with "Otherwise..." of post 629 for details of how this was accomplished; amend "front passenger door opening" to read "rear passenger door opening" in this post. Note that the existing routing of speaker wires from the factory amp is not as direct as you would expect.
When you referenced the amp on the "right" side, you did mean passenger side right?
Right.
I sure wish the backseat didn't drop down when you lay it flat, I would like to mount the new amp there but there is no room when it drops.
I think that is where I was originally planning to mount my aftermarket amp as well; it sure would have made it easier to tap into the factory amp harness!
(For those of you who have never noticed (and this is a piece of HL trivia!) the base of the second row seat drops down a few inches when you lay it flat).
Also, did you need an adapter for the antenna on your new HU or is it a standard plug?
Hard to say as I kept the factory headunit!
Good luck!!
I also want to hook up my Ipod without using the tape method and was wondering if they made something that you can hook up from the back of the radio and just have the one cord coming from behind.
Highlander HU
Thanks
Looked at the photo; unfortunately I seem to have misplaced the HL electrical manual. My guess is the black cables are the antenna inputs; the HL you have probably has the diversity antennas in the rear left and right windows (you will notice that in one of the windows the traces run horizontally and in the other window vertically; I'm guessing possibly each of these two cables come from one of these antennas. I also think there may be an antenna amplifier somewhere; its also possible the two diversity antennas feed into this amp and there is only one output from the amp to the HU and the other black cable is something else. Also came across this link referenced in the Tacoma forums which shows the rear view of an '04/'05 HL HU, indicating that at least one of these cables is an antenna lead: www.logjamelectronics.com/toy03auxdia.html.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help, will let you know if I find the electrical manual.
thanks!
(Just kidding.)
Actually it's not too difficult; to remove the center console on an '02-'06 (may be forgetting a few details but hopefully will get you started):
1. Remove the two beige/gray plastic panels near the floor that mate with the shifter surround cover on either side by removing the round black plastic fasteners.
2. Snap-off the two small round beige/gray plastic caps on the bottom of either side of the console and remove the screws.
3. Remove the woodgrain/hammered metal/aluminum-colored plastic bezel adorning the shifter by grasping from the inside and firmly pulling straight up/away from the shifter; remove the connectors to the cigarette lighter and 12V outlet; and remove the three screws securing the console to the dash.
4. Remove the felt from the bottom of the inside of the main storage compartment in the console and remove the two bolts.
5. Remove the console (it comes out in one piece) while disconnecting the connector between the dash and the console. I believe one of the front seats, or one or both of the front seat armrests, will need to be removed; otherwise the console will be trapped by the armrests.
It's possible the ashtray may need to be removed at some point during this procedure.
Good luck!!!
Any other ideas out there????
I've been reading these forums and they have been so helpful! Yesterday, my DH and I bought a black '03 CPO HL Limited. I haven't taken delivery on it yet since they are taking care of a few things for me first.
In the meantime, can you recommend some accessories I might need? The HL came with the standard Limited features. I'm thinking I need a trunk organizer - but what kind would you recommend? Any other recommendations?
TIA!
Thanks for all your help Landdriver. I tore down the interior of the Highlander today and I finally got my hands on that elusive factory amp.
I ended up popping up the board that the rear deck is hinged on and took out the entire rear deck. I was scared I would break it but you were right, it is held in by the plastic rivets and comes right off. Then I removed the right side backseat, then the right side rear interior panel. After that, there are plastic rivets that hold the vertical section of the second row floorboard carpet, I popped those out and the carpet folds down to reveal that TINY little amp. I would like to choke the engineer that decided to put it there.
Anyway, my HU has not arrived yet so I could not finish the install today the way I planned but the hard part is over. I did realize another issue however.
I planned my audio system in two stages because of monetary limitations. In the first stage, I am installing a head unit and a Sirius Satellite receiver. The second stage will be a new amp and new speakers all the way around. (Maybe a sub too) The issue I found is that since I am using the hu internal amp to power the speakers I will have to run speaker wire from the HU to the location of the factory amp. It looks like the HU has preamp signal cables running to the amp so it looks like one for each channel. I need two wires for each speaker run so I will at least have to run four if not eight wires back to the factory amp, then connect those to the speaker runs there. I know I could splice into those speaker runs along the right side of the car but I plan to put my amp under the rear deck where the jack is mounted right now so I want to leave the connections back there near the factory amp. Let me know if you think I am wrong on the wiring Landdriver.
I am taking photos of the install as I go along so maybe I can save someone else some of the grief I have had. I will post a link to them when I am finished.
By the way, the antenna issue is actually a non issue. I looked all over the internet for an antenna adapter to fit the Highlander antenna but I couldn’t find one. I finally pulled the HU and went to my local Car audio shop to show them. Turns out the two cables in the picture were both antennas but for an aftermarket HU you only need one of them and it fits without the need of an adapter.
I'll hold him down for you.
My recollection is my aftermarket amp was too large to place under the cargo deck unless the spare tire was removed, so you may want to check the size of your amp before finalizing your wiring plans.
Let me know if you think I am wrong on the wiring ...
Yes I don't see any way around running a new set of speaker wires from the HU; the line-level outputs are indeed single ended (4 signal wires plus a common return), and are also of a thin gauge not well suited for driving speakers. The only possibility is if you don't drive the speakers very hard you could use the line-level wires; just tie the 4 speaker negative outputs at the HU together and attach to the line-level common return wire -- should work but if you crank up the volume to any appreciable level you risk frying the return lead if not the others as well so I wouldn't recommend it.
A question: why not just drive the existing factory amp with the line-level outputs from the new HU? This should eliminate the need for a temporary speaker wire run.
One question about the HU wiring I have is that there are 3 heavy gauge wires running to the HU. I only expected two, Power and Ground. There is a heavier gauge blue/yellow which should be power, then there is a heavy gauge brown, and also a gray cable. One of them should be ground but im not sure which. The amp used a white/black ground. I know you did not change your HU but I thought you might know. I found a wiring diagram on the internet that listed the brown as a "mute" wire but why would it be heavier than the rest of the wires. The same diagram listed the gray as 12v acc switch wire???
Thanks
The heavy gauge brown you mentioned (which I assume is different than the thin-gauge shielded brown which is indeed the "mute" wire), may indeed be ground, as your post implies the white/black wire is not present at the HU; you could perhaps verify this with an ohmmeter or even with a +12V bulb.
Once again sorry I couldn't be of more help as I still haven't found the electrical manual... :mad:
What make and model HU are you planning to get?
Do you know what the thin blue "beep" wire at the HU is for? The diagram I have labels it as "beep" but I'm not sure what the function is.
Here is a link to the JVC I chose. I have never been a big JVC guy but I chose this one for the appearence. I think it will blend in with the Highlander dash well. It also has an easy to read display which is important to me. I have always used Kenwoods but the current line of Kenwoods has a horrible dot matrix display in my opinion so I couldn't bring myself to buy one.
JVC Arsenal KD-AR960
That's actually one of the reasons I was curious about your HU as the HLs controls are relatively sedate and I was interested as to how well it will blend in -- looks like it'll be a pretty slick setup when you're done!
I would like to connect my after market HU to the factory JBL amp. This sounds pretty straight forward, until I heard (unverified) that the JBL factory amp needed a digital on signal from the factory HU to turn on (!). Relocating the factory HU elsewhere in the vehicle and leaving it in the ON state seems a very inefficient way to go about this.
Please, does anyone on this board have experience with the Highlander Hybrid JBL audio system who can verify and help with information on connecting an aftermarket HU to the JBL amp? Am I stuck with either relocating the factory HU or scrapping the JBL amp and factory HU altogether?
Thank you very much!
Khoa Ton
As far as for the racks - Yakima and Thule are the most well-known brands. If you don't want to spend $160-$200 for one of those, then you can check off-brand racks in WalMart, Target or other dept. stores.
I would be extremely happy if my Pioneer DEH-3700MP aftermarket HU can turn on the JBL amp as you indicated.
In my research for the right components to connect the aftermarket HU to the factory JBL amp, I came across
the SoundGate XR4 Radio Replacement Interface and it's
application document:
http://www.soundgate.com/upload/productdocuments/0186.pdf
The entry for the Toyota Highlander with JBL amp indicated the necessity for "relocation" of the factory radio. An email to a SoundGate technician got me the definition of "relocation": Move the factory radio elsewhere and leave it turned on so it can turn on the amp when the car ignition is on. This is apparently due to the digital signal that the OEM HU sends to the OEM amp.
JBL said their hands are tied and they aren't allowed to help me since OEM parts are handled by Toyota by contract.
I was resigned to drive the speakers directly with my aftermarket HU (which has speaker outs), rather than "relocate" the OEM HU. The idea of having a full OEM HU attached for nothing but turning on the amp seems wrong.
Thanks for any light you can shed on this.
Khoa Ton
HU came in today and it took me a while but I am done. It looks pretty awesome too. I did not not have real high expectations on the sound quality since I do not have an amp or new speakers yet but I am totally impressed. The HU internal amp is actually stronger than the JBL factory amp sounded. My hu is rated at 20W rms per channel so the JBL must be like 15 or 16. After seeing the size of the JBL though I am not surprised.
I will post some pics tonight after I get home from work.