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My driver's side sliding door does not open. I locked and unlocked the door using the remote and the switch on the driver's dash, and it seems the other three doors toggle between locked and unlocked, but the driver's sliding does not seem to unlock.
I opened and closed my gas cap door a couple of times to see if it would properly seat, and repeated the above. No change. Both of the push-pin switches will actuate through thier full range (I did not feel anything when pushing with my finger)
My guess is one of the following is defective: switches in the gas door lock mechanism a cable to the lock mechanism
Has anyone heard of this issue, and do you have any recommendations on troubleshooting and repairing?
There seems to be two switches in the gas cap door. is this the case, and if so why two switches?
Well. the problem turned out to be a "read the manual" problem. There is an lock on the inside. I assumed that locking and unlocking the door from the driver's dash or keychain would toggle this lock, but it does not. Problem (if it really was one) solved.
I thought it was just me, but our brand new '08 touring does the exact same thing. Seems this happens though only in a stiff crosswind: say, about 30 km/hr and 45 to 90 degrees off the nose. Both front doors do this - depending on the direction of the wind and it is annoying seeing how we shelled out many sheckels for this otherwise great vehicle. Any other suggestions? :confuse:
Does anyone know how to access the hidden menus in the 08 touring menus for the MID? After all, the maintenance techs have to clear the warnings, right? I figure there has to be a way, because by sheer fluke, I found I can actually get to see the 4 separate tire inflation values when going down the highway. Background: I had a false low tire pressure indication on the TPMS (it was below freezing) and when the orange warning screen was displayed on the MID, I pushed and held the SEL/RESET button on the steering wheel for about 5 seconds, and it displayed 4 separate tire inflation vaules in the proper locations. So, being in Canada, the right rear tire showed 2 KPa less than the minimum required for it not to go into alarm. Using the handy-dandy touch info screen for conversion, 2Kpa = 0.3 PSI! WOW! I really had no idea the system was THAT sensitive. That's why I'd like to find a menu to not disable it, but just de-sensitize it bit, (lower the alarm point) to say, 3 PSI, or 20Kpa. Any ideas, suggestions, or comments? :shades:
I have a 04 Odyssey EX w 110000 miles on it that has been maintained. However I am hearing loud noises from back end every time I go over rough roads too, What mileage do U have on your 06? Have your shocks been replaced yet or r we supposed to replace rubber bushings on back suspension?
The other day, when it was about 30 degrees, our low tire pressure light came on. Just re inflated the tires to the correct air pressure, and all is well. It appears to me, that the system monitors the 4 tire pressures' collectively. Don't ignore the sensor, just put air in your tires up to the recommended tire pressure when cold.
:lemon: I have had my 2008 EX-L w/DVD & Nav minivan for almost a year and at first I loved it and now I absolutely HATE to drive it! :mad: I have to drive my kids arounds all the time and everytime I get into it I cringe. The sliding door rattles, everytime I accelerate it sounds like it slides backwards, I hit the brakes it sounds like it slides forward. I go over a bump and sometimes I think the door sounds like it will fall off. I've had it in the shop numerous times and they try different things and say they can't hear it. I get home and it's just as bad. I want to get rid of it and get a Sienna, I had a 4Runner before this and loved it. I test drove a Sienna yesterday and it's wonderful. Has anyone had any luck with getting their money back or some compensation from Honda? I didn't realize how big a problem this was until I came to this forum! Thanks!
I have the '08 touring and the whistling wind noise on the passenger side window. The culprit was the B pillar's molding ... the rubber seal left a portion of the molding exposed and that causes the whistling at certain times.
The solution was the use of black silicone caulk applied to the exposed area ... that should take care of the whistling noise.
Also had a lot of road noise ... solution was the use of undercoating along bare metal areas of the wheel wells ... that helps some.
I realize this thread is old, but this same problem has been bothering me for 2 years. I did everything from lubing the track to putting foam weather sealant in the track. I thought to myself the window must not be the problem and I was right. Five minutes ago I lubed both the rubber seal on the car frame and the door and voila; no more rattling on the driver's side, but the noise still came from the passenger's side. I repeated the process on that side and once again the noise was gone. I don't know why I didn't do this before. Try it and see how it works. BTW I have an 06 Odyssey EX.
This is the rubber seal on the door and the body of the vehicle, not the window.
I used WD-40, but plan to use a silicone lube in the future.
I just uploaded a video clip onto YouTube to show you guys what the rumbling noise (or whatever sound you would call it) from the sliding door that I have with my '06 Odyssey EX-L. The trip was very smooth, but the noise level was just about 60-70% of the "normal" noise that I used to hear.
While you watch/listen to the video, you can tell when it is quiet and normal, and when I start regretting that I bought this car. I wish that Soichiro Honda (the founder of Honda) would just wake up from his grave and whip his successors.
*I just came back from Lee's Summit Honda and couldn't get them to work on my car because the service manager was so angry about the survey scores that he received from me, and refused to work on my car. :mad: :lemon:
We have 2007 Ody and has the same problems. Both windows when roll down, the rattles noise arise most on rough road. When turning left, there's clunk/thump noise heard from the rear. We took it to the Dealer twice and they said it is normal. For the clunk/thump noise, they could not duplicate the problem. We don't know what else to do. We will take it back to the Dealer if it get worst. Hope they found the solutions.
I am sorry to hear that you have the same problems and I can't help. I have visited the Lee's Summit Honda dealer for so many times for the same problems, but they always tell me "everything is normal", "that's the character of the design". Right now, the service manager is so mad with me because the survey report card he received from me is so low and refused to repair my car. I've called Honda and got a case number just in case I have everything ready to file a complaint against the service manager at Lee's Summit Honda. By the way, my factory warranty expired the next day he kicked me out of his office. :mad:
You're absolutely right. I will buy only those Honda's that are "100% made in Japan" from now on. Actually, I am seriously thinking about selling my 06 Odyssey EX-L.
I had service bulletin 08-080 performed on my 08 Honda Ody, noise on both doors gone! Windshield noise, performed the tape test on the sides and bottom trim pieces. Found the bottom trim molding to be the problem. Service bulletin 04-078 repair procedure B should fix this issue. Next issue up for bet! ..... Wife loves this car. Luckly, the Honda folks here in town are good people or I would have traded that van in a few thousand miles back.
I have read a number of these responses and think I can help. I had a similar problem for quite some time and decided that I could find a fix better than the dealer. Just finished with the fix this evening, and a test drive in 20 degree weather confirms success. Believe it or not, the fix really is in the sliding door adjustment, but I found that the tightness required is likely far more extreme than the dealer is willing to go. The Honda shop manual (I always buy the shop manual, although it is about $60 -$80, for any car I buy), in the door adjustment section, states that with the sliding door closed and the front door open, you are not supposed to be able to move the sliding door at all if you grad it with both hands about 1/3 of the way up and pull and push (shake) it as hard as you can. When I did that, I discovered that an apparently tight door was not really tight enough.
The item you need to adjust is the bracket at the bottom of the door (at the front side of the bottom of the door). Open the door all the way and you can loosen the nut on top of that bracket enough to move the bottom of the door in and out. There are three marks on the bracket, and I moved it all the way to the third, tightened the nut, and shut the door. No movement at all now.
BUT, here's why the Honda dealer probably won't tighten it enough--with the door tight, it did not line up with the front door at all--about 1/8 of an inch further in than the front door, maybe more. OK, just adjust the front door striker, right? Wrong. You are supposed to be able to hit the striker with the screws slightly loosened and move the whole assembly behind the door frame body panel, but that did not work. SOOOO, I took my dremmel and bored out the striker such that the screw holes were no longer convex, and then I used stainless steel bolts with flat heads rather than the screws with the conical heads. Then, I could move the front door striker and it would stay in place when I tightened the bolts. A little trial and error, and the TIGHT sliding door and front door now align just right.
A dealer would probably not want to go through this much hassle, but it was necessary to get the sliding door tight enough.
Test drive, and . . . presto . . . no rattle from the doors!
A lot of work and creativity, but those doors were really bugging me. Well worth the effort. Good luck.
Hey, sorry for the long absence. The fix for the rattle is tightening the sliding door, but I had to tighten the front door also, since the amount of "tightening" needed for the sliding door caused the sliding door to be much closer to the body frame than the front door, causing an unsightly gap. Tightening the front door is necessary only from a cosmetic perspective. Hope that helps. I will try to post pictures sometime soon. Good luck.
I also have a 2005 Odyssey with 91,000 miles and have had problems with passenger sliding door rattle almost since day one. It is especially bad in cold weather. About 3 years ago, they finally did an adjustment that seemd to take care of it, by bending the door roller at the top of the door. Last winter I could tell it was starting to rattle a little again. During the summer I didn't notice it. Then this winter it got really bad again. I have the extended warranty (which really paid off by the way, since I just had to have my transmission replaced and didn't have to pay anything) so I took it back in a couple of weeks ago. This time they "replaced the center door roller, tightened all interior door bolts, and adjusted the upper door stopper". It now only makes a slight noise, which my husband can't hear, but I can live with. If it gets worse, I will try your solution. Thanks for the posting.
Update: I got tired of the rattle and took my van to the Honda dealerand gave them a copy of the posting from gfounds. They refused to make the fixes he had made to stop the door rattle. They said that was not a "Honda solution" and told me to take it to a body shop, which of course would not be covered under my Honda Care warranty.
I have '08 Odyssey EX and there is a whistling noise from my front doors in the windy day or high speed on the highway. the passenger side is worser than driver side. The dealer said they could not find the issue. I believe it is the door sealing. Is it covered in the warranty? Does anyone know? Please advise.
I have a '08 Honda Odyssey EX. Sometimes, when I start the vehicle, it will make a noise like the engine is running already. I need to do it again. It happens to me and my wife so many times. Is it a problem? And the engine is so noisy in the road. Does anyone have same experience? I am thinking about the extended warranty, expecially for powertrain. Any suggestion?
Ugh...wished I had read nickshertzer, dyi. I just purchased a Certified Pre-owned 2008 Odyssey Touring with 37k miles. Purchased the extended warranty 100k B2B and 120K Power Train. Within the first 30 days, I noticed the door noise/wind rattle and found the TSB 08-080 online. I also had intermittent problems with the Left Sliding door not opening. So, took it into the dealer (not the one I purchased it from, since this dealer was closer) And they charged me an "adjustment" charge, not covered by warranty for the door. And they charged me $98 to fix the wind rattle. They state that the TSB was only good for the original 36k factory warranty and that my extended warranty excluded "trim" and rattles/squeaks. Really? I'm calling the dealer I bought it from to at least get the door charge correct, since being "Certified" my sliding door should have worked!
Trying to pinpoint interior rattles is a tough chore, but here it goes: At first it sounded like coins rattling in a small pill bottle coming from behind the steering wheel. Definitely interior -- but high up, almost at dash level. Occurs on small bumps as well as large. If I tap on the lower fascia next to the radio, I can hear the baby rattle-type sound. After tearing apart the front dash, changing the cable reel, tightening down every loose wire under the dash, I still cannot find the source of this rattle. Then I narrowed down the sound coming through the upper windshield defrost vents -- that is why the sound was so elusive, it bounced off the windshield.
Peeked into the vents, but could not see anything strange. Even with the front dash off and the instrument cluster out, I could not feel, nor see the source of this mysterious rattle. How can I access the windshield defrost vents? (BTW, it is not related to the blower fan speed at all)
After doing long research and trial and errors which I am going to write in detail, finally got the fix this early morning. 1. The whistling sound was coming from somewhere on right side which obviously I can hear when I am on driver side while the rpm is 2000 or over or speeding from 60mph or more. Got help from my brother to drive the car when he was visiting me patiently on so many days of experimenting to resolve the issue. 2. Did took it to Safelite for windshield resurfacing the mold to see if there was any leak, did the whole new mold but it did not solve the problem. 3. Tried painter's tape (Blue color) down the cowl, vipers, doors both front and back sliding on passenger side, one by one to rule out any leak, all in vain. 4. Change the weather strip of right front door no good but here I found the break. 5. Took out the side view passenger mirror and did the painter's tape on molding of mirror and drove over 60mps, the whispering sound gone. Found that the side view mirror have few rubber moldings that worn out due to water going through from where the mirror attaches to the door. Did some weather stripping adhesive tapes to fix the issue on both the door side and mirror side surfaces.
I hope this long painstaking FIX will help the forum and also to help Honda Dealers who have so far couldn't figure out where that annoyed whistling sound is coming from. Well it took me three days to figure it out as I did not have no help to drive the van while I could sit on passenger side. The cost of that weather strip 10 mm tape was $1.19 from ebay. Wish you all the very best
Trying to pinpoint interior rattles is a tough chore, but here it goes: At first it sounded like coins rattling in a small pill bottle coming from behind the steering wheel. Definitely interior -- but high up, almost at dash level. Occurs on small bumps as well as large. If I tap on the lower fascia next to the radio, I can hear the baby rattle-type sound. ..."
I got the same. That were rattles of coins in the small coin box in the front cup holder drawer. I changed the position of coins that they are not loose. Fixed
I got also another, quite similiar sound: that were house keys put in the cup holder inside the table between driver and passenger seat. I put something soft under the keys and the sound is gone
Trying to pinpoint interior rattles is a tough chore, but here it goes: At first it sounded like coins rattling in a small pill bottle coming from behind the steering wheel. Definitely interior -- but high up, almost at dash level. Occurs on small bumps as well as large. If I tap on the lower fascia next to the radio, I can hear the baby rattle-type sound. ..."
I got the same. That were rattles of coins in the small coin box in the front cup holder drawer. I changed the position of coins that they are not loose. Fixed
I got also another, quite similiar sound: that were house keys put in the cup holder inside the table between driver and passenger seat. I put something soft under the keys and the sound is gone
I remember taking my '98 CR-V in for service, and insisting I had a rattle in the dash. When I went back that afternoon, the service tech hopped in the car with me and said, "let's go for a drive". 5 miles later, and no rattles, he pulled out two baggies full of change and other crap he found in the various cubbyholes of the car.
Comments
I opened and closed my gas cap door a couple of times to see if it would properly seat, and repeated the above. No change. Both of the push-pin switches will actuate through thier full range (I did not feel anything when pushing with my finger)
My guess is one of the following is defective:
switches in the gas door
lock mechanism
a cable to the lock mechanism
Has anyone heard of this issue, and do you have any recommendations on troubleshooting and repairing?
There seems to be two switches in the gas cap door. is this the case, and if so why two switches?
Thanks,
Ted
I figure there has to be a way, because by sheer fluke, I found I can actually get to see the 4 separate tire inflation values when going down the highway. Background: I had a false low tire pressure indication on the TPMS (it was below freezing) and when the orange warning screen was displayed on the MID, I pushed and held the SEL/RESET button on the steering wheel for about 5 seconds, and it displayed 4 separate tire inflation vaules in the proper locations. So, being in Canada, the right rear tire showed 2 KPa less than the minimum required for it not to go into alarm. Using the handy-dandy touch info screen for conversion, 2Kpa = 0.3 PSI! WOW! I really had no idea the system was THAT sensitive. That's why I'd like to find a menu to not disable it, but just de-sensitize it bit, (lower the alarm point) to say, 3 PSI, or 20Kpa. Any ideas, suggestions, or comments? :shades:
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A08-080.PDF
The solution was the use of black silicone caulk applied to the exposed area ... that should take care of the whistling noise.
Also had a lot of road noise ... solution was the use of undercoating along bare metal areas of the wheel wells ... that helps some.
This is the rubber seal on the door and the body of the vehicle, not the window.
I used WD-40, but plan to use a silicone lube in the future.
Here is the link to the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfUzofgYWec (please turn up the volume to listening to the noises)
While you watch/listen to the video, you can tell when it is quiet and normal, and when I start regretting that I bought this car. I wish that Soichiro Honda (the founder of Honda) would just wake up from his grave and whip his successors.
*I just came back from Lee's Summit Honda and couldn't get them to work on my car because the service manager was so angry about the survey scores that he received from me, and refused to work on my car. :mad: :lemon:
http://www.edmunds.com/dealerships/drr/jump.html
A brand new car should not have a such issue. This is just poor fit & finish.
I will avoid Honda from now.
The item you need to adjust is the bracket at the bottom of the door (at the front side of the bottom of the door). Open the door all the way and you can loosen the nut on top of that bracket enough to move the bottom of the door in and out. There are three marks on the bracket, and I moved it all the way to the third, tightened the nut, and shut the door. No movement at all now.
BUT, here's why the Honda dealer probably won't tighten it enough--with the door tight, it did not line up with the front door at all--about 1/8 of an inch further in than the front door, maybe more. OK, just adjust the front door striker, right? Wrong. You are supposed to be able to hit the striker with the screws slightly loosened and move the whole assembly behind the door frame body panel, but that did not work. SOOOO, I took my dremmel and bored out the striker such that the screw holes were no longer convex, and then I used stainless steel bolts with flat heads rather than the screws with the conical heads. Then, I could move the front door striker and it would stay in place when I tightened the bolts. A little trial and error, and the TIGHT sliding door and front door now align just right.
A dealer would probably not want to go through this much hassle, but it was necessary to get the sliding door tight enough.
Test drive, and . . . presto . . . no rattle from the doors!
A lot of work and creativity, but those doors were really bugging me. Well worth the effort. Good luck.
At first it sounded like coins rattling in a small pill bottle coming from behind the steering wheel. Definitely interior -- but high up, almost at dash level. Occurs on small bumps as well as large. If I tap on the lower fascia next to the radio, I can hear the baby rattle-type sound. After tearing apart the front dash, changing the cable reel, tightening down every loose wire under the dash, I still cannot find the source of this rattle. Then I narrowed down the sound coming through the upper windshield defrost vents -- that is why the sound was so elusive, it bounced off the windshield.
Peeked into the vents, but could not see anything strange. Even with the front dash off and the instrument cluster out, I could not feel, nor see the source of this mysterious rattle. How can I access the windshield defrost vents? (BTW, it is not related to the blower fan speed at all)
I am afraid something was dropped down the vents.
1. The whistling sound was coming from somewhere on right side which obviously I can hear when I am on driver side while the rpm is 2000 or over or speeding from 60mph or more. Got help from my brother to drive the car when he was visiting me patiently on so many days of experimenting to resolve the issue.
2. Did took it to Safelite for windshield resurfacing the mold to see if there was any leak, did the whole new mold but it did not solve the problem.
3. Tried painter's tape (Blue color) down the cowl, vipers, doors both front and back sliding on passenger side, one by one to rule out any leak, all in vain.
4. Change the weather strip of right front door no good but here I found the break.
5. Took out the side view passenger mirror and did the painter's tape on molding of mirror and drove over 60mps, the whispering sound gone. Found that the side view mirror have few rubber moldings that worn out due to water going through from where the mirror attaches to the door. Did some weather stripping adhesive tapes to fix the issue on both the door side and mirror side surfaces.
I hope this long painstaking FIX will help the forum and also to help Honda Dealers who have so far couldn't figure out where that annoyed whistling sound is coming from. Well it took me three days to figure it out as I did not have no help to drive the van while I could sit on passenger side. The cost of that weather strip 10 mm tape was $1.19 from ebay.
Wish you all the very best
I got also another, quite similiar sound: that were house keys put in the cup holder inside the table between driver and passenger seat. I put something soft under the keys and the sound is gone
So, I got a $100 "clean up".
Good service tech, though.
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