Oldsmobile Intrigue Heating and Cooling

dirkworkdirkwork Member Posts: 210
Ok, after crowing about how much I liked my new 2000 GLS, it has developed a problem with the A/C. When I select AUTO and turn the temp to cool, it blows air on high speed but the temp does not cool and the compressor and cooling fans I have confirmed do not come on. Before this sudden problem, the AC seemed to work well.

We have confirmed that power does go to the relay for the AC, but its not making it to the compressor clutch to engage.

I noticed in the docs I got with the car that it had the controller replaced under warranty once before. I am hoping its not that. Also wondering about a sudden loss of coolant, maybe that would also have the same effect like if the evap coil rusted out.

Any hints from anyone?



  • dirkworkdirkwork Member Posts: 210
    After doing some work on the AC issue, we didn't see any codes in the computer, the fuses are ok, the relay gets power when the AC is requested but replacing it does not solve anything. The entire AC system is grounded through the ECU so it can be shut off at WOT and if motor overheats, etc., so the problem could be there.

    We're not equipped to go much further, will have a dealer evaluate the issue. BTW, this car is basically like a small Cadilliac Seville STS, so my dad's shop manuals apply the 3.5 GLS more often than not. The 3.8 is probably more like other cars.

  • indrgbindrgb Member Posts: 115

    Put a gauge on the AC suction pressure port. If the pressure is very low, then the pressure switch will not allow the compressor clutch to engage. If the pressure is near zero, go buy a couple of cans of 134a and put them in. Some cars (not sure about the Intrigue) have PCMs that lock out the compressor if low pressure switch cycles X times. You may have to pull the PCM fuse or disconnect the battery briefly. If this works, then the previous owner topped off the refigerant to get it through the sale. You then need to look for a leak.
  • dirkworkdirkwork Member Posts: 210
    indrgb - Thanks, although too late!

    I could have saved some money by following your advice, if the AC compressor is not running, chances are there is no gas in the system and the computer has shut it down. I had the dealer fix and it was a bit over $100 but it runs fine now. Couldn't find leak, it was not perceptible, but I'm guessing the evap core. they also put dye in, so we'll run it and see what happens. good for now.

  • redline65redline65 Member Posts: 693
    I finally got the A/C fixed in my '99 GL. Last summer it wasn't cooling well and my compressor was groaning pretty loud whenever the A/C was on (probably the clutch going out). I had my mechanic top off the refrigerant and that got me through the summer, but a few weeks ago it was back to not cooling well.

    Took it in this week for a new compressor, dryer, hoses, and orifice tube. Now it's nice and quiet and cold again. An expensive repair, but I'm not too mad about it since the car has been paid off for nearly 4 years and I haven't had to repair much outside of the warranty.

    Next up will probably be replacement of the loose front hubs and maybe new struts all the way around. At 82K miles the suspension is wearing out, I think.
  • dirkworkdirkwork Member Posts: 210
    My AC failed again after getting it charged right after buying the car used. The receipt the guy had said he charged it in August of the prior year, but it makes you wonder if the charge was only to get it sold. But anyway, the dye the dealer put in let it be found that the condensor got holed by a rock or something. The Intrigue has a low bottom-fed cooling system. Has anyone had this sort of trouble in the past? I have not, but did have a radiator rot out from salt on the roads once. Thinking of putting a mesh or something to protect it.

    Oh yea, don't know if I got taken or not but the condensor cost $800 for everything, and they had to change the radiator fluid while removing the radiator.

    Other than that, the car has been great. Even the wife who snubbed her nose at the "grandma car" has gone out of her way to drive it :~)

  • heather_ebay06heather_ebay06 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 Intrigue and have several problems with it. Mainly, the AC only blows cold on the passenger side. The driver's side is either warm or the same as the air outside. The temp. readout on the display NEVER reads correctly. It could be 85 degrees and it will read as 67 degrees. Has anyone else had this problem? I have tried playing with all the knobs...especially the one that selects a colder/hotter temp for each side.

    Any ideas on this would be greatly appreciated.
  • bayview6bayview6 Member Posts: 141
    Regarding the temperature reading, the sensor is probably dirty. It is located in front (or back?) of the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side. With the hood open, look for a wire that goes in that direction. You will probably have to bend a sheet of plastic to see the sensor. Anyway, get a wet cloth and wipe the dirt off the sensor. If the sensor in a day or so doesn't give a correct reading, then a new sensor is needed. Cost about $11 at NAPA. Probably something you can do yourself if you don't mind getting your hands dirty. the hardest part is finding the darn sensor. :P

    regarding the main problem, does your Intrique have an air filter for the cabin and have you ever changed it? When I changed mine it was filthy, filthy. It was seriously cutting down on the air flow when A/C fan was on high. Probably not the cause of your problem but worth knowing about. I suspect that the cause of you problem is an air diverter plate is not working, maybe a vacuum line is bad. Never had that problem so can't be more specific. Run an internet search for other ideas. You are not the first one this has happen to but I can't remember the fix.
  • donp9donp9 Member Posts: 29
    Your problem may be the ambient temperature sensor. It is a small sensor (easily replaced)that is located on the front radiator air baffle on the passenger side. I found it was easiest to lay on my back and look up to locate it unless you have a hoist. The part is inexpensive-around $10 I think. I had the same problem you described with the reading not matching the outside temp and this fixed it. Once you replace it you have to drive the car at a speed of 20 mph for approx one and a half minutes to set the ambient temp. good luck.
  • ral1960ral1960 Member Posts: 74
    I've got the same cold on one side problem. I had grinding noises behind the A/C controls for the first few minutes of driving this winter--could be related.

    Someone on page 26 said that adding freon got rid of the problem on his car. I may give that a try tomorrow and let you know. Please post any success you have. I hate taking it to the dealer--something else always goes wrong afterwards.
  • redline65redline65 Member Posts: 693
    I had warm air blow from the driver side twice. The first time the system was about 1 lb. low on refrigerant. I had the shop top it off and it worked OK for about 9 months and it started doing it again. I finally had the compressor and evaporator replaced last month and it's been working great. Watch out for moaning when you turn the A/C on, it's a good sign your compressor may bite the dust soon. I'm pretty disappointed that the original compressor only lasted 82K miles.
  • ukagrukagr Member Posts: 1
    I am a new Intrigue owner and have been having some problems recently with the AC. It seems that when it rains hard the AC will cut itself off. I have a 98 GL V6 with 114K miles. It has been wrecked slightly in the front and i rebulit it for a commuter car. The display for the climate control always says 50 degrees F ext (i assume this is what the exterior temp is supposed to be?) But if it begins to rain really hard or has been parked in a heavy rain storm the display goes all the way down to -40 F and the AC will cut off and not come back on.
    When the rain quits and i drive a while the temp slowly creeps back to 50 F and the AC will come back on as if something or some sensor is drying off. I am totally stumped to the problem and any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanx
  • racer__x_9racer__x_9 Member Posts: 18
    My guess would me the outside temperature sensor. If the HVAC thinks it's below 35 degrees outside - it will not turn on the AC.

    It's under the front bump on the passenger side. It's the only thing connected to a wire so its not hard to find. disconnect from electrical switch then turn the plastic nut then pull it out part number should be 10248414.

    It list for about $10. Verify part number with dealer and buy it first. That will make it easier to find it if you are looking at the new part.

    For $10 and 10 minutes of your time to replace, it's worth a try.
    Let us know how it goes. Good Luck!
  • shawnindrerdshawnindrerd Member Posts: 2
    i have the same problem as above, (i.e. temp. drops below 30 in the rain so my AC/defog doesn't work) i bought the part, but i can't find it on my car. you wrote it should be under the front bump on the passenger side. could you be more specific? please.
  • racer__x_9racer__x_9 Member Posts: 18
    It's located in front of radiator and behind bumper.

    It's just to the passenger side of the license plate. It faces the outside of the radiator. You can get to it without lifting the car. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
  • shawnindrerdshawnindrerd Member Posts: 2
    thanx. i'll give it a try when i get home, and let you know how it went.
  • pacman34pacman34 Member Posts: 1
    so did you ever find the temp. sensor? I was asking because I'm having the same problem, and I can't find that damn thing, and my dumb [non-permissible content removed] still can't find if so if you could help with that, I would appreciate it a whole lot. also if you would have a pic of where it's at that would be awsome, well thanks :)
  • mick1mick1 Member Posts: 84
    open the hood and look down, there is a plastic shield in front of the radiator. Pull the plastic shield towards you and look down at its back side. the hvac temp sensor is snapped in to its back side. I heard the part is $10 - $11. if the radiator was replaced and the plastic shield was not put back it may be hanging or tied around something. Happy Hunting!
  • kristendkristend Member Posts: 1
    I have a '99 Olds Intrigue that I bought in 2002. It will be fully paid off in five months, and I would like to keep it at least another two years beyond that. I really love the size of the Intrigue, the power of the V6 engine, the comfort...almost everything about the car. I did have to replace the transmission early last year, but ever since, the car drives beautifully and I really can't complain, except about one thing.

    Some days when I start the car, the climate control works fine. Other times, it wil be completely shut off (no lights, no air, no heat, nothin'.) Other times, there will be no lights, but warm air will be coming from the blowers.

    I'm hoping that this is just some kind of loose wiring problem, that can easily and cheaply be fixed, as I'm a bit cash-strapped right now. Has this happened to any other Intrigue owners and if so, any idea as to the culprit? (Other than the car being possessed?)
  • gpbeaugpbeau Member Posts: 1
    Where the heck is the orifice tube on a '98 Intrigue? The GM Service Manual says to remove the liquid line that attaches to the firewall just inboard of the master cylinder/vacuum booster. I pulled those lines off but can't see the orifice tube. No tab or anything to grab onto. I poked around (gently) with a paperclip to see if I could feel anything but nothing was there. The system was working fine until the compressor developed a horrible vibration. I've got the compressor and the accumulator installed, but can't find the darned orifice tube. Any help out there?
  • top666top666 Member Posts: 5
    Did you ever find it, I am looking for it as well.
  • oldsgeorgeoldsgeorge Member Posts: 10
    Anyone ever find the orifice tube? I'm looking for it too.
  • top666top666 Member Posts: 5
    I did finally find it, and you are gonna love how.....cost me $230 to get it changed by a shop. They had to(or chose to) remove the master cylinder, and complete air box to get at it. If you follow the lines and look between the master cylinder and air box you will be able to find the crimps in the line that show you where the oriface tube sits. My A/C finally works like new after a whole lot of chasing my tail. Hope that helps!!! :mad:
  • oldsgeorgeoldsgeorge Member Posts: 10
    Thanks for the info! I pulled the air box today but still didn't see it. Looks like the master cyl is next! Regards
  • duanedrc1duanedrc1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi: I am new to this forum. I have a 2000 Intrigue. I also had an o/s temp sensor go bad. I bought the sensor. $9.45 and installed it from the bottom. Very easy, just pull push not out, replace sensor and put it back in. Worked like a charm. Five minute job. Duane in Traverse City, MI. Part 10248414. This sensor is located pass side of radiator. Only electrical part there.
  • dieselissydieselissy Member Posts: 34
    what was the code given that made you change the sensor? I have a 2000, got code PO118
    Engine Coolant Temp Sensor Circuit High Input ,
    but don't know where the sensor is or thermostat? can u help?
  • dieselissydieselissy Member Posts: 34
    Hi, my air compressor is squealing like a pig and seems the clutch or the compressor may be bad. Also the a/c light would come on and off on the dash controls. I will take it to a a/c mech, but If I get a new compressor or clutch has anyone changed out the air compressor. Seems confusing, no where to pull it out without taking everything near it apart. If any one out there can help, appreciate it....
  • oldsgeorgeoldsgeorge Member Posts: 10
    Thermostat is on the passenger side of the engine. Bottom radiator hose, coolant resevoir and a hose going up to the head is connected to the housing. Housing attaches with 2 bolts with 10MM heads. Easier to take the belt off when removing.

    Not sure about the temp sensor but think it is on the back head drivers side.

    Good Luck!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Could just be a loose belt. At any rate DON'T let the AC compressor seize up if you can avoid it. Get this looked at right away. If the compressor seizes tight, you have to pretty much clean and/or replace the whole AC system, as metal debris has contaminated all the components.
  • oldsgeorgeoldsgeorge Member Posts: 10
    I just changed my compressor. Have to take the battery out, fan assembly, alternator, thermostat housing and lower radiator hose. Sounds bad but is not that difficult. To get the fan housing out, pop the plastic rivets loose that hold the wiring harness to the radiator support. You can move the harness back and pull the fan shroud between the harness and the radiator. You'll have to change the accumulator and the orifice tube. The accumulator is under the air filter box. The box snaps into a rubber groumet in the fender well. The orifice tube is another matter! Have to remove the anti-lock break servo and the master cylinder. The tube is close to the firewall tucked beside the power brake booster. Some short wrenches work best to unscrew the fitting. Once all the hoses are apart, need to get some A/C system flush (parts store has it) and clean out the system. I rigged up a funnel to pour flush in the coils and blew it out with compressed air. After a few trys, put a paper tower at the outlet when flushing to check for metal shavings. Have to keep flushing until the paper towel is clean. I used a gallon of flush cleaning mine. After I finally got it all back together, I purged some 134 through the system and then pulled a vacuum for about 30 minutes before recharging. Takes three cans to fill the system. You can't believe the tag under the hood as they short changed the system on assembly. There's some other strings talking about that. Good Luck!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Thanks for all the details...very helpful...and I hope it works out and all the debris is gone.
  • dieselissydieselissy Member Posts: 34
  • top666top666 Member Posts: 5
    Compressor was about $170 got it from napa, not too bad to change, take out the battery, and the battery holder as it will give you plenty of room to remove it. the compressor itself only took about 1 hour for remova and install, then however long it takes to get it recharged. That was on a '98
  • oldsgeorgeoldsgeorge Member Posts: 10
    Suggest for warranty reasons that you buy the compressor, dryer (accumulator), and orifice tube from the same place. Compressor warranty if void if other items aren't replaced and most won't accept the fact you bought them somewhere else. I had problems finding a dryer, even through the GM dealer. Ended up getting the parts from the local AC Delco parts dealer. Cost more but has one year warranty on the Delco compressor. Good Luck!
  • top666top666 Member Posts: 5
    Got the drier(@ $20) and orifice tube (@ $6) from the local napa as well
  • hunter2049hunter2049 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '99 3.5 L V6 with about 80,000 miles on it. Great car and love it to death, but the the following from an unanswered post by kristend earlier in this thread sums up my issue pretty good:

    "Some days when I start the car, the climate control works fine. Other times, it wil be completely shut off (no lights, no air, no heat, nothin'.)"

    I'll pretty much ditto that. Anyone have any ideas? Most of the time it works, but sometimes (probably about half the time) it doesn't turn on at all. After driving for a little bit, the whole unit, lights, air, and everything else will kick on. Like I say, not an every time issue, but often enough to be annoying. Any help would be greatly apreciated, and feel free to write me at [email protected] if you don't feel like posting here. Thanks!
  • top666top666 Member Posts: 5
    Have not heard of this specifically, but it sounda like it is probably the climate control head unit. Is it possible that it is overheating (the unit itself), or that there is a loose connection to the back of the unit, fuse box relay unit or computer. All of this is a guess, but I would take a good look at the wiring, and trace it back. :confuse:
  • rosscmrosscm Member Posts: 13
    I just bought an 01 GLS with 33K!
    The drivers side heated seat is not working. When I press the switch the orange light comes on for about 4 seconds then goes out. It does the same for HI or LOW temperature settings.

    As I was told, air conditioning needs to be charged. Would this affect the heat output? The car has climate control as opposed to traditionally separate buttons for AC and Heat. Warm air was coming out but not warm enough for my ankles.

    The recycle air button keeps switching off and the outside air button switches on. Is this some sort of default? I haven't read the manual yet .

    I bought the car this afternoon. I will be registering it tomorrow. I plan to have the oil and filter changed tomorrow. Any suggestions on what else I should do for it on my first full day of ownership?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Congrats on the Intrigue. I don't have heated seats so I can't comment on that. You may want to check the manual to see if there must be a certain temperature for the seats to operate.

    The AC needing freon should not affect the heat. With the auto climate control, it will not blow out hot air until the car warms up. On cold days, it could take a several minutes to feel warm air. Also the climate control system depends on the outside temperature sensor. In other words, you simply set the temperature you want it and the car dictates where the air is comes from (defrost, below, vents, etc.) based on the outside temperature. This may explain why the recirculate button keeps switching off. Is the outside temperature sensor working properly? If not, it is extremely easy to replace.

    Along with the oil and filter, i would also get the coolant changed since it is over 5 years old. I would also change the transmission fluid.
  • rosscmrosscm Member Posts: 13
    my driver side heated seat indicator goes on for about three seconds (both low and high) and shuts off. The heat doesn't come on.
  • rosscmrosscm Member Posts: 13
    I drove through some wet slushy conditions last night and the signals stopped working for a bit on both sides. Is there an area along the wire route where I could or should do some water proofing? Is this going to happen alot? I put 185000 miles on my 98 regal and never had an electrical problem.
  • rosscmrosscm Member Posts: 13
    I'm going to spread some sound dampener in the trunk and front doors. What fragile things to watch for? I would like to be be able to re-attatch things when I'm done with the install. I'll also be putting in a new head unit, amp, f&r speakers.
    What is the best way to run the power and gound to the amp?
  • rosscmrosscm Member Posts: 13
    I reposted 42 & 43 in appropriate discussions. Sorry for clutter. I just figured out how to edit these. duh
  • rosscmrosscm Member Posts: 13
    The hot air blows out on the passenger side when I have the heat on. It comes out more forcefully but cool on the drvivers side. this is true for vents and floor.
    Has any one else experienced this?
  • yammaxim700yammaxim700 Member Posts: 19
    I'm guessing my heater core is starting to go. Just recently my windows have been fogging up and now and then get the smell of antifreeze in the car. Has anyone changed it before? If so, is it located under the dash near the blower motor?

  • manolikamanolika Member Posts: 1
    Ok, here is a strange thing, at least it`s strange for me... i bought a 00 olds. intrigue , A/C working fine for like 5 days, then suddenly stops working without any noise or sign the car was not even in running period...how did those dealers boosted this system so that it`s gonna work only for a couple of days ?? , what could be the problem ???

    any ideas are welcome,

  • mililanisoccermililanisoccer Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem with the AC. Driver side is blowing hot air while the passenger side is cold. Both the Driver and Pass dials are set to 60 degrees. It almost seems like a vent valve is stuck.

    Any recommendations?

  • oldsgeorgeoldsgeorge Member Posts: 10
    Check the fuse first. Look to see if the compressor clutch is engaged and compressor spinning. If not, something electrical is keeping it off. If it's getting power to the clutch and compressor isn't spinning, the clutch is bad. Next quick check is to see if the servo motors are working on the mixing duct. Pull the A/C fuse and turn on the key but don't start it. Plug in the fuse and listen closely under the dash near the center. Should hear the servos sweep the damper from open to close to calibrate the circuit. If you don't hear it, problem is likely the servo. I had to change the driver's side on mine as it was blowing hot when the pass side was cold. If the compressor is running and still no cold air, check the pressure. My compressor lost a valve and it just quit pumping. No noise and immediate failure. Had to change the compressor. Refer to earlier discussion in this string. Good Luck!
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Member Posts: 92
    This happened once to me (cold on one side, got on other.) After re-starting the car, the problem went away. Dealer said that a switch can get stuck. Have you changed settings to force heat instead of AC? In other words, make the switch do something outside of how it is set now.
    You might try disconnecting the negative cable on the battery to reset it. (This is how to get rid of a ServEngSoon light-on as well.) If it does not reset to normal, you need to replace a part. Sorry, that's all i can supply on this one. (Our family has two 'trigues and my brother's family also have two. We like these cars. We are tall and the have the most front-seat leg room of any car I would want to drive.
  • rosscmrosscm Member Posts: 13
    There are fuses on the right end of the dash board. You have to open the passenger door to see the panel. There is a finger hole for yanking the cover off. A "Fuse Usage Chart" is on the inside of the cover along with a few spare fuses in a foam cushion. The first row down and "B" across says "LOW BLOWER 20 A." I noticed on the panel that the corresponding slot was empty so I pulled a spare 20A fuse out of the foam cushion and placed it. It did seem to me that my problem went away. I was having forceful air in the drivers side but no heat, and the opposite - heat but no force - on the passenger side. It is summer so the air is going to seem hot no matter what but I did think the air was blowing hard on the passenger side now.
  • bluevolumebluevolume Member Posts: 6
    Oldsgeorge -- Would you happen to know the part number for the driver's side servo that you replaced? All I'm able to get from the dealer is the entire control module.

Sign In or Register to comment.