Oldsmobile Intrigue Heating and Cooling

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Comments

  • oldsgeorgeoldsgeorge Member Posts: 10
    It was an aftermarket part and I don't recall who I got it from. Thought it came from RockAuto but I checked their site and didn't see it. It has the letters CEI and YPP-6F30 stamped on the case. Bar code number was 52402588. Hope that helps.
  • bluevolumebluevolume Member Posts: 6
    OK, so I found the part number myself when I took it off (its 16163982 for anyone who needs it). I removed the actuator, and I still cannot figure out what is wrong. I can move the blend door from end to end by hand, and it feels and sounds like it is sealing on either side. Even when closing it by hand, I'm still seeing a good 15 degree temperature difference between the driver and passenger (when set to coldest temp).

    Is it possible that the blend door is cracked or something? It doesn't feel like it is binding or loose or anything. Could it be a faulty bypass for the heater core? I'm assuming that it has a coolant shut-off for the heater core when on A/C. Maybe that is failing, and it is heating up the drivers side more?

    Any ideas, before I tear the whole dash out?

    Thanks!
  • oldsgeorgeoldsgeorge Member Posts: 10
    There's no heater shutoff valve. Hot water is available to moderate the temperature when the A/C is on. Sounds like the door is still attached to the shaft. I doubt a crack would let enough air by to cause the temp difference you see. Could be something preventing it from closing all the way but anything is just a guess. Would be interesting to thread a boroscope down the vent and see what is in there. Good luck finding one though. Not many shops have such an expensive tool. Let us know what you find.

    Regards
  • bluevolumebluevolume Member Posts: 6
    My neighbor works at a Pontiac dealership, and he after doing a little research he came back with "low on refrigerant". I didn't think much of it, since I already charged the system yesterday, so I went back to troubleshooting.

    Just for grins, I decided to check the pressure on the AC system again, and I found that it was still on the low side (~22). This is where I realized that with the connector i have, you have to press it down and hold it for it to open the valve. When I was filling it yesterday, all I was filling was the hose and the gauge.

    After a good charge, I think I'm back in business. The air is still a little bit cooler on the passenger side, but overall it is fine. So, for everyone who has had this crazy problem, being low on freon can be a big factor.
  • rtownsend2008rtownsend2008 Member Posts: 1
    I too am having the same problem with my 2000 Intrigue.

    Could you give me a general idea as to where the actuator is that you were able to remove prior to tearing out the entire dash? I'm looking around and I can't find anything to check.

    Much appreciation.

    Russ
  • oldwinooldwino Member Posts: 20
    I've got a 98 intrique that the air blows out all the openings(defrost, dash and floor) all the time, no matter what the mode setting is showing on the hvac control display. Freon is not an issue as it blows cold on AC. Any info on possible causes or fixes would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • jrichmannjrichmann Member Posts: 1
    My digital climate control works well for the driver's side, but when I turn the dial for the temperature for the passenger side, there is no change to the display. The air temperature changes fine on the driver's side, but is luke warm all of the time on the passenger side.

    I think the controller in the dash is bad. Anybody know this one?

    Also the car is a 99 Intrigue and I can cheaply get a 2000 climate controller. They seem very similar. Anyone know if I can put the 2000 controller in the 1999? The only difference I see is an "AC" button on the 99, but an "Econ" button on the 2000. The two buttons are located in the same spot on the two parts.
  • pioneerhogpioneerhog Member Posts: 4
    Ok I too am having problems with my AC only blowing cold on the passenger side and hot on the drivers. My brother in law's dad, which was a mechanic on Chrysler products for 30 or so years, said it was the actuator but the he didn't really feel comfortable fixing it. I have found what I believe to be the actuator, or at least according to the rockauto.com websites pics and several other websites photos. I found the same thing on both sides, so is there one on each side? Now on the actuator there is a white round piece that sticks out some and turns when you change the temp settings. There are two notches on the round white thing and three small ridges on the houseing of the actuator that line up with one of the notches. When I turn the temp setting to hot the actuator on the passenger side turns from one of the ridges all the way over to the third ridge, or about a 1/4 turn, but on the drivers side it only turn to the next ridge, or about 1/8 of a turn. So with it doing this is it most likely my actuator or is it something more?

    Also here is a pic of what the websites are calling the actuator, I am including it so you folks can tell me if I am looking at the right part and see the things I am describing.

    image
  • oldsgeorgeoldsgeorge Member Posts: 10
    You are correct! That is the damper servo unit that controls the temperature damper. When you install it, need to pull the HVAC fuse for a few minutes. Turn the key on with the AC turned on and plug the fuse back in. The servo should sweep from full closed to full open. This calibrates itself to the full open and closed positions. You'll hear them running for a few seconds when the fuse is plugged in. Get someone to plug in the fuse while you watch the indicator. If it doesn't go from full closed to full open something is wrong.
  • pioneerhogpioneerhog Member Posts: 4
    Ok so is this something fairly easy to do. I can get to it, I am pretty sure, without taking any of the dash apart. Is this something that just slides out and simply slides back in or what?
  • bluevolumebluevolume Member Posts: 6
    The passenger side servo is very easy to get to once you remove the glove box. The driver's side is another story. You'll need to remove the plastic panel below the steering wheel, and the metal frame that is beneath it. One you do that, you should be able to see the servo, but not very well. I used a small socket & wrench to remove the bolts, working blind.

    Once I removed the servo, and operated the actuator by hand, I found that the servo is fine. Even with the damper moved all the way to the 'cold' position, I still have warm air coming out from the driver's side.
  • mrk6mrk6 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. I read the service bulletins. it stated that there was a known problem that if the power is lost to the car it is normal for the ac servo to calibrate itself when battery is reconnected by moving from one extreme to the other since the car is older the plastic flexes and will go beyond the settings the computer is expecting. . it is said that there is a new control unit to fix this problem. but i have not followed through on it. i was wondering if this is the problem. can you drill through the servo unit and perhaps stop the servo by holding the flap from moving all the way through its calibration and fool the computer .
  • cabevillecabeville Member Posts: 1
    I drive a 98 or 99 Intrigue. I've had the car for almost six years and have had few problems. We think it was a repaired wreck, because a lot of the mechanics on the passenger side don't work right. The doors stick, and the seat belts stick sometimes too. But other than that, I've been basically problem free.

    A couple of weeks ago, however, my A/C started having problems. The thing would sometimes shut itself off, but would always come right back on. All of the sudden, though, the high/low knob malfunction. The A/C would blow only on max air, and nothing else. Thinking that would be the extant of the problem, I basically ignored it. The thing still worked, and I have little money for car repairs. But two days ago, the whole system stopped working. No air, no heat, no defroster, no fan, nothing. The whole thing is dead. Any suggestions as to what the problem is?

    A second, possibly unrelated problem...before the system broke, I noticed that condensation from the air conditioner was leaking into my passenger side floor board. This has happened a couple of times over the years, but had never leaked this much. Could that be where my problem lies, or is it just leakage?

    I know nothing about cars, and my brother, who would fix it, has moved away. I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the problem might be, so that I can get some quotes for repairs. Hopefully it's not expensive. Money is tight!
  • cchenoccheno Member Posts: 1
    How just wondering if you ever figured out what the problem is. We bought my daughter a 2000 olds intrigue in April and we are having the same problems you are having it would work off and on. So we had the Control panel that includes the auto temp control replaced by one out of a 2001. Had the mechanic install and it worked great that night on the way home. Blew cold however it didn't blow in dash mostly on the floor. (Which when I picked up the car the mechanics partner said was probably another system that the panel communicates with located behind the glove compartment) Anyway it worked great first night and next day for the first hour trip, then we turned car off and when ready to leave would not work at all completely died. Mechanic is stuck on the fact that he thinks it is the panel again. However when I spoke to another mechanic he doesn't think this to be true. So was wondering if you have figured out the problem. I have already put close to $1,000 in this car since April don't want to spend much more, since we will never get out of it what we paid. thanks.
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    Does anybody knows the location of the PCM/EMC? 2000 Intrigue
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Front left side of the engine, inside the air cleaner assembly
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    Thank you ;)
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    Thanks for the help.But I need your help again.Where is the EMC located? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Just open the lid and lift it (the Mass Airflow Sensor is on top of the lid), the ECM is in the box itself.
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    Yes I found the PCM inside air filter.The dealer is asking $300+ for the PCM.Also $100+ for an ECU.Where is it??????Thanks....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    sorry I don't know what the "ecu" is referring to.
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    The dealer calls it Electronic control unit.Is the reason for the cam and crank sensors faults.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    That's the PCM---powertrain control module

    part # 12209614 $401.80

    Unless you are talking about ignition control module that controls the coils, located in the center of the valve/cam covers.
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    Mr shiftrigth.
    First let me thank you for all your help.Here is one more for you.What can you tell ma about a CASE relearn?This seems to be the problem,cam and crank sensor timming is off.pcm forgot?or went belly up,Thank you again OLDS409
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Here's some info:

    PCM Programming

    and some people discussing Case Relearn:

    Case Relearn Ideas



    Apparently this is some secret GM cult and only a few high priests have the knowledge --LOL! Sure is a muddy field of inquiry.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    you may want to also check out this forum as well:

    http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=49
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    Hey Guys,
    Have anybody done a PCM reflash,and did it work? :confuse:
  • MishMomMishMom Member Posts: 3
    My daughter bought an Intrigue from a dealership after we recomended it to her and we found on the way home the air comes on when you start the car and the heat only comes out of the passenger side. The radio is shot and the back windows don't go down. My main concern is the heat problem being that it is cold out!! Any ideas why the air would come on when you start the car???
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Member Posts: 256
    Possibly the HVAC controls sounds defective or some fuses are blown

    How come you did not notice all these issues during one of your test drives?
  • MishMomMishMom Member Posts: 3
    She had totalled her car and only had limited money to spend so we were rushing to get another vehicle so she would not loose her job. We both drove the car and it looked and handled great. The heat was coming out of the right side so we figured it would kick in after it warmed up. Obviously we were wrong. Now we are trying to fix our mistake so she will have some heat.
  • rosscmrosscm Member Posts: 13
    I had the forced air on the left in my face and the heat on the right. When I checked he fuses one for a blower was missing. I used one of the spares provided and everything worked fine and still does. The fuses panel is on the end of the dashboard when you open the passenger door. You will see the panel cover . It is kind of half heart shaped with a finger hole - just yank it out. The fuse diagram is on the inside of the cover with a couple spares mounted in foam. The diagram mirrors the actual panel.. Good luck. Keep in mind when the "auto" climate control is "on ", it starts by drawing exterior air which is usually cold.
  • rosscmrosscm Member Posts: 13
    I would take it right quick back to the dealer and tell them to fix it.. Once they agree to fix one thing, you've got them by the @#$ until it all works. Otherwise, why would anyone shop at a dealer. The climate control could simply be set to "auto" in which case it is going to run until its equal with the thermostat. Just press "off" on the bottom left. If you did this then take it back. As far as the windows go, you can check the fuses. Did all this stuff work when you test drove it? You should really take it back and tell them you don't want the car. See what they do?
  • sturgessturges Member Posts: 2
    The problem started when daytime running lights was blinking off and on. Drove about 10 miles then the climate control unit shut off, I turn the ca off and turn it back on it work. The next day it wasn't working so I replace the alternator the lights stop flickering but the a/c heater climate control did not work. I got a used climate control unit and it still not working so I turn the corner and it came on then i turn the car off and back on it stop. So I wonder if its a short in the wire? if anybody had this problem and fix it please let me know its freezing.
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Member Posts: 92
    Check the wiring into the daytime running lights. Mine was shorting out because the insulation around the copper wire had chafed and fallen off.
  • MishMomMishMom Member Posts: 3
    That's what I told my daughter. We should take it back. The heat comes out of only the passenger side and she is freezing. We asked the salesman if the heat worked well and he assured us it did. If he denys this I was there and her father too. This could be construed as fraud since they assured us. I am not too worried about the back windows but the heat factor is really critical. She does not need to be sick. It has been diagnosed as a motor in the dash which has stripped gears and the cost to fix it is over $400. Thanks for your input!
  • bluevolumebluevolume Member Posts: 6
    Replacing the actuator motor is really not that big a deal. It takes some time, and it does involve 'feeling out' some parts that you can't really see, but honestly its not that big a deal.

    I'm not sure how much the part is, I'm thinking it is around $120. Might be able to find it on Ebay cheaper.

    The $400 quote is ridiculous. A technician that knew what they were doing could raplace the part in 30 minutes.
  • sturgessturges Member Posts: 2
    I've check the wiring and dont see any chafed wires. I wound if its the ignition switch some time it works some time it don't for the lights and heater? what do u think?
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    Hey guys, I have some good news.My problem,put key in,nothin happens.
    Well I read somewhere,that it could be a bad fuel pump.I replaced the fuel filter
    fixed about 90% of problem.Looking to replace fuel pump,will keep you
    posted. :)
  • oldwinooldwino Member Posts: 20
    Just a note about the problem I was having. Finally decided to take it to a shop to get it fixed, hoping it wasn't going to be major. Turns out that the ignition switch was bad. Contacts apparently burnt or corroded enough that it wasn't supplying full voltage to the solenoids and control unit. $350 later and it works like a charm. :)
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Another Intrigue with a bad ignition switch. I've never seen an igniton switch cause so many problems.

    Glad you got it fixed and it wasn't too much money.
  • intrigue99intrigue99 Member Posts: 1
    These postings helped me narrow down my own Intrigue problem so I thought I'd share in case anyone would do a search for these specific symptoms.

    I have a 1999, and my climate control external degrees were never correct since I bought the car a year ago. But recently the climate control began to get stuck at certain temps, then at certain fan settings, and then it would shut off when I pushed recirculate, then it would only turn on after the car warmed up (longer the colder it was), then it basically died occassionally popping on. I had the climate control replaced with a salvage one ($130 all) which worked fine first day, then inconsistent for a week, then dead. Everything else on my dash worked fine except that the daylight sensor which automatically kicks on the headlights went out, so I had to manually turn on the headlights. I wish I would have noticed this before getting another climate control, but it turned out to be the ignition switch (which some others here have found). Cost was $250 (136 part, 95 labor, +tax). Grateful it wasn't anything else as it's hitting 0 degrees here and now I finally again have heat and defrost.

    best to all those with climate control problems
  • donnyd22donnyd22 Member Posts: 2
    Count me in as having to replace my ignition switch on my 99. Climate control, rear defrost, cruise, compass did not work at all.
    My neighbor has a 2000 and replaced his ignition switch also.
  • wickline7wickline7 Member Posts: 2
    MY COMPRESSOR ALSO STARTED TO HAVE A BAD VIBRATION AND IT TURNED OUT TO JUST BE LOOSE BRACKET SO BEFORE YOU REPLACE EVERY THING CHECK THE BRACKETS
  • cobolisdeadcobolisdead Member Posts: 2
    Okay, I know this is going to sound weird, repetitive, and all, but I need some Advice/Information on where to begin. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but I've never worked on anything to do with the AC before. My father gave me the three shop manuals for the car, but that doesn't help me diagnose with my problem.

    To start off with, I have a 1999 Intrigue. It's just the 3.8 base model, but I like it. I inherited the car from my grandmother in 2002 and I have been using it as my primary car ever since. I've put around 85K miles on it in the past 7 years, and despite its flaws(Defective window motors, I'm looking at you!), I haven't replaced it yet.

    Getting to my problem, the AC seems to have gone out and rather quickly at that. Now the repetitiveness of my post is that, like most others here, my Driver side is much hotter than the Passenger side. It has been like that for at least 5 years, but the difference wasn't that bad after the car cooled down and the Driver's side was still getting cool air. However, now its got to the point that the car doesn't cool down, and the Driver side feels like it no longer gets any cold air at all. It feels liek I've got the heater on and it's blowing into my face. The car literally has become undrivable in this hot Alabama summer, especially with the defective Intrigue windows keeping the driver's window sealed up. Is there anything I can try before taking it to a mechanic tomorrow so I at least know what to tell them and not get ripped off? Thanks for reading and any help/advice.

    One other thing, on occasion, when I start up the car, and the fan is on, it make a high pitch noise like it's scraping something, but if I turn the fan off, and then back on, it's fine again. No idea if that is part of the problem, as it doesn't seem to be related to the AC at all, and it happens very infrequently.
  • oldsgeorgeoldsgeorge Member Posts: 10
    See if you can do a search for Oldsgeorge. I changed the compressor a few years ago on my '99. Also had to change the damper control on the driver's side. Actually changed it twice over the years. Should be a lengthy discussion in the archives about my experience. Need to check the system pressure to see if it is charged and compressor is pumping. If it is cooling then problem is the damper control unit or the climate control computer. Good luck
  • golfgirlmdgolfgirlmd Member Posts: 4
    I know that I lost all of my coolant for no apparent reason. My mechanic was baffled. I have kept an eye on it ever since and have had no problems.

    golfgirlmd
  • cobolisdeadcobolisdead Member Posts: 2
    turns out that the fitting on the compressor was leaking the freon out. The dealership tried to sell me a whole new compressor and tubing as they said that the compressor broke and sent shards of metal throughout the system. Didn't make much sense to me as they also said that the compressor was still working. So instead of replacing the whole thing for $1100, it just cost me $154 to get the fitting replaced and the system recharged.

    I can't believe that they wanted to charge me that much money when the car's trade in value in perfect condition is only $1650!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Glad you trusted your common sense. Doesn't surprise me about the dealership. Too many have become "parts replacers"
  • alen181alen181 Member Posts: 3
    i have 02 olds gl the ac runs great in the florida heat in the city but if i drive for hours on 1 75 going 75 mph for along time it just stops blowing cold ac and it wont blow at any speed when you make it blow faster i took in to the shop hade the ac check the feron was full but could not get it stop they check was blowing cold at all speeds told me to come back when its doing it again i dont know al
  • femdriverfemdriver Member Posts: 2
    I have experienced this problem with my ac on 99 Intrigue. The driver's side, center ac vent is warm but other vents put out cold air. Since your post, have you been able to resolve the problem.

    I bought my Intrigue six months ago with 104,000 and have already put over 2k in various repairs. Seems I get one thing fixed and something else breaks. Now, my headlight turn off when the ac/ heat comes on and sometimes, the ac/heat display panel is dead, then comes on when it wants to but I am unable to adjust mode, fan speed, etc. Seems that most owners are finding that by replacing the Ignition switch fixes the problem. I'm scheduled to have this done at a tune of $500. Sure hope it works. I would like to think that I am going to get lucky and stop having so many problems. Maybe I made a bad choice in purchasing the car from all the problems I reading about from other owners. Think so?
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