We had the same problem as a lot of people on here with the rpms going up and down and the van not starting looked all over the internet for the problem and came across a video on youtube about a similar problem turned out the problem is the pcm is getting wet water is getting under the black cover and the pcm is getting water inside of it which is causing the problem not the battery which is an electrical problem be the pcm is the power control mogul the best bet is to take the black cover off and seal it...link to the youtube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhjEVBMuxJw for people aren't car savvy or don't know where the pcm is...in most case the problem only happens after it rains or snows.
We had the same problem happen to us which turned out to be the pcm=power control mogul its a very common problem after it rains or snows causing the pcm to get wet...youtube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhjEVBMuxJw
Hi, I am hoping that someone here can help me. I have a 2006 Freestar, it has the keyless entry keypad and remote. The remote will unlock or lock all the doors, EXCEPT the driver's door. The keypad will do the same. However, when in side the car, I can pull on my door handle and the car unlocks. Any guesses as to what is wrong?
I started developing all slew of problems with van once dealer replaced torque converter under recall. It seems to now not have the same power to get moving, or to get up grades on highway or hills that it used to. I have to give it more gas to make a hill or to get into passing gear, and then all of a sudden the engine catches up to the gas I have given it. The rpm's may remain higher than normal (slightly) on highway when it is going through its shifting and at times there seems to be a delay in the shift to 3rd gear, but only sporadically. They retested the trans and said all ok. First issue post torque replacement was the temp gauge spiking every time I hit a grade on the highway or after accelerating the engine quickly to cut out into highway traffic. This was never happening before. It would go down on its own quickly if I let off the accelerator. No actual signs of any overheating (steam, smell, etc). They tested coolant system and said all ok. Next day after driving on highway grade, parked, went into store, came out and no start-clicked only. Took a jump first time. Next morn took into independent shop to see why. Electrical all tested ok, and could not find issue with temp gauge. They had also told me that they noticed the ABS code came up (none ever displayed on dash) and that it was not plugged in or connected right, and also the cruise control not working, or code for that may have come up-cannot recall) I never use cruise but tried on trip and would not work even though it had the last time I used it months before. Took car back to take on a trip next morning, and 2 hrs into trip it started losing power, radio cut off, displayed low battery words on radio panel. I cut into break-down lane to get to next exit, but before I made it, the van shut completely off and would not restart. Towed to shop and said alternator went bad so replaced it. Finished trip (10 hrs each way) without any more electric issues, going through mountains for 3+ hrs of trip each way. Entire time had temp gauge issue spiking then going back to mid level, but no actual overheating. We did hit a huge rain storm on the drive there, about 4 times in the mountains, but had no issues while at our destination with any starting. On way back, 2 hrs into trip, starting losing power on highway, power would go down, may have slight hesitation like a vacuum leak, but ended up correcting itself after about an hour or so driving like that (happened about 5 times within that 1-2 hour drive) and made the last 7 hrs home ok. Next day loud noise from engine front-started as squeal like belt but got louder. Drove to work that morning and within 2 miles of home, car shut off for no reason while waiting at first stop light. Started right back up, but experienced a slight hesitation when pressing on gas to take off. Independent shop said noise was from bad cam position sensor and it fixed the noise issue. Had also asked them to check the gauge issue. But they had trouble getting the temp gauge issue to happen. They first replaced temp sending unit/sensor and thought that fixed it, but when I went on test drive with them to show them when it happened, it still happened for them to see. So, they did a process of elimination by replacing t-stat and water pump. That issue now seems to have corrected itself with gauge, but as soon as I pulled out of the shop, at the first stop light, car just shut off. . Started right back up but I noticed the radio kick on to an AM station when it had previously been off. I drove back to work without any further issues that day. Went a week with no more occurrences. This weekend, after driving through the city for 15 minutes, came to stop light and shut off again. No fluctuation of rpm's at any of these times, and no sputtering before it shuts off. Starts right back up, but got a slight bucking when pressed on accelerator and hesitated to move at first. Kicked right in though and got home. Later that day went 2 miles to store. When headed back home, about a mile into drive, went to turn on green light, without coming to a complete stop (foot on brakes but still coasting) and car dies as I start to turn. Started back up, slight hesitation to engage gas pedal but got home. I noticed the door locks attempted to engage when I started it back up (they are auto lock as soon as I take off so they attempted to auto lock like they normally would on take off). It appears to be something electrical that is causing things to fail (sensors, alternator, etc). No check engine lt on at any of the times, no warning lights before shut down either. Is this related to the PCM issues or something else? Coincidence that all started happening as soon as dealer touched converter? Should CAS replacement have fixed this shut down issue as well, or is something more going on?
Wondering if my issue could be this pcm thing. We are having difficulties with the electrical in the dashboard going black while driving. We are not losing engine, still drives just no dash electricity. It will then come back on with everything fine. Every once in awhile it would not start, but a jump would start it. Replaced alternator, drove fine but then battery went dead. Replaced battery. No problems until tonight when dash went black again. I haven't noticed a correlation with rain, but it has been raining off and on all day today. So any ideas? Could that be this pcm thing I have been reading about?
We have the same problem with our 2005 Freestar. Except, it is the PCM. We could not drive ours because the tranny had no power. The PCM has been on back order for sometime. Called Ford and they say it was shipped to our dealership last Wed.(11-13-13). Was to be there on Monday(11-18-13) but, was not in that shipment. Called the dealership today and they can't locate the PCM order. Two weeks and counting to get this van fixed. Ford knows there is a problem, they don't want to send a recall for the PCM getting wet. I do believe this is our last Ford. Try this number to get a hold of Ford Customer Care. 1-800-392-3673 and follow the prompts. Good luck...
Have an update. The PCM we have been waiting for is no where to be found and the shipment of back ordered PCM's is going to be a long wait. Am going to have them install an aftermarket and see what happens. Ford, I hope you make this right with everyone...
hahaha Ford make this right are you joking this has been the worst Ford I have ever owned 3 transmissions 2 torque converters numerous issues with the back tailgate handle pulling out 150,000 miles about 36,000 miles for trans. worst Ford ever made.this will definitely be my last ford.havnt owned anyyhing but a ford.within the first two years on the extended warranty plan there was over 15,000 dollars in charges. Plan on looking at chevy van tonight.why sink any more money into a piece of junk that isn't even 8 years old..about the only issue I haven't had is the engine always starts even though it can't move.
2004 Freestar. Ignition off, key removed Radio clock stays illuminated Left and right door window,lock,and mirror controls stay illuminated When you lock the doors electronically the driver door unlocks itself.
Comments
We could not drive ours because the tranny had no power.
The PCM has been on back order for sometime. Called Ford and they say it was shipped to our dealership last Wed.(11-13-13). Was to be there on Monday(11-18-13) but, was not in that shipment. Called the dealership today and they can't locate the PCM order.
Two weeks and counting to get this van fixed.
Ford knows there is a problem, they don't want to send a recall for the PCM getting wet.
I do believe this is our last Ford.
Try this number to get a hold of Ford Customer Care. 1-800-392-3673 and follow the prompts.
Good luck...
Am going to have them install an aftermarket and see what happens.
Ford, I hope you make this right with everyone...
Plan on looking at chevy van tonight.why sink any more money into a piece of junk that isn't even 8 years old..about the only issue I haven't had is the engine always starts even though it can't move.
2004 Freestar. Ignition off, key removed Radio clock stays illuminated Left and right door window,lock,and mirror controls stay illuminated When you lock the doors electronically the driver door unlocks itself.