The front driver window works about 10% of the time, and of course since I don't drive it very often I often forget. There is no motor noise, its like the power is cut, and then a couple days later it starts working again. I've checked for lose connections, but am coming up empty.
If the PowerControlModule (PCM) has gotten wet and corrosion has formed on the pins (make sure you check all ends), it may be the source of the problem. The PCM is the computer control center for the vehicle, and any moisture will create a bad situation.
I just wanted to thank you for putting this information on here, I was having all of the talked about electrical issues to the point all the lights and buzzers and alarm went haywire, I was unable to drive the car and I had to pull out 4 fuses just so it would be quiet and dark over until I could get it fixed. I was able to find the technical bulletin and have a mechanically inclined friend dry out and reseal my pcm, thanks to your post. I am still having problems with the door ajar light and buzzer going on, I am not sure if that related but I assumed it was. My tranny did quit also, If there are others with these issues please report them to the NHTSA since there are currently investigations on both the PCM and transmission problems.
No, The vehicle was turned back in as a voluntary Repo. The financial Institute took me to court and received a twenty thousand dollar Judgement against me. no money to fight Ford.
Having some strange problems with our 2005 Freestar today; the key fob remotes quit working. Pressing the lock button would get the locks to click open, but none of the other buttons would do anything. Went through the reprogramming routine several times with both remotes, and although the van responded as it should (locks closed then opened when button was pressed) the remotes did the same thing afterward.
Also, before I tried reprogramming the remotes, my son happened to be looking out the house window & saw the side door on the van open and close on its own. Both remotes were untouched in a drawer on the other side of the house. Would these issues be symptoms of something goofy with the Smart Junction Box?
I know this is an old post but I still wanted to reply. I too have a 05 freestar with the same problem, minus the battery going dead. We noticed it about two years ago sitting out on our deck in the summer. The inside lights would just randomly come on. I know for a fact the there are electrical problems. I also have had all my dash lights go out, and I can not get them back on.......... I have to say this is a long standing problem with the freestars, and I will will most likley choose a different make of car next time around!
I do not have a Ford Free Star anymore, However, I believe all the electrical problems are linked together, Moisture is getting into the PCM The Cars computer and is shorting out systems randomly throughout the vehicle. which in turn will cause individual components to fail. I never did this, but i saw a post that suggested taking a silicon caulk and caulk the mess out of the seams around the pcm. and may your next car purchase not be a Ford.
My Freedstar has been a great car up until now. After experiencing several car stalls during or after a rain I had the car towed to my local guy who found out about the PCM issues. Sure enough he pulled it out and dried it off and sealed it up with silicone. Since picking it up I had to have it towed back to him on a sunny dry day. It would crank over, start then just stall. He worked on it a week and could not find anything wrong with it other than 20 or so body codes. It runs now with no check engine light, but has no power. We are having strange issues where we can't turn off the lights and electrical items are not working. I am afraid to drive it anywhere.
Remove the PCM cover and let it dry for at least 3 day with a blower on it. I had the same problem and It is very difficult to dry because of the silicone on the circuit. I had to remove it 2 time to get good result. My freestar is ok since I let it dry for 3 days instead of 1 night.
I would love to sue them, They left me with a $20,000 Judgement by the bank, on a voluntary Repo because of the dealer not being able to fix the PCM after 3 times I gave it to them and went and bought a Toyota while I still had credit. Ford almost cost me my maintenance business. I would like to see them Take care of the Judgement. I could not afford to pay 425.00 per month on a 3 year old freestar that kept shorting out.
I ended up taking it to a Ford Dealer to analyze the problem. They said there there is corrosion on the PCM connectors. I took out the PCM and the pins look clean. Is it possible that the PCM has suffered electrical damage? At times my car runs fine, but other times I can't start it or put it into gear.
My family owns 3 freestars and have had problems with all three. Currently one of them stopped running after doing crazy electrical stuff before stopping.another has speed control,windshield wiper and window electrical issues along with the 6 cd player going crazy. If you need to I can give you all three individual id's to add to your list. Let me know. I am at paul_thomas1@yahoo.com my name is Paul Thomas
FORD FREESTAR (2004 & 2005) PCM and related issues. I too have a Ford Freestar. It is a 2005. Loved this vehicle until the TRANSMISSION FAILED (I had it replaced). Then the van l LOST ALL POWER WHILE ON A HIGHWAY DOING 65 mph.) I was smart enough to shift to neutral, restart van and lunged and lurched it off the road to safety just before a semi rammed into us from behind. I left the van in Norton, Ohio (near Akron) with a nearby garage. I was able to hustle a ride for my 3 year old daughter and myself. I picked up the van the next day after the garage replaced the fuel filter ($150.00). IT WAS NOT THE FILTER. Several weeks later I took van out to run errands. Van ran fine until it decided to NOT START. THEN IT STARTED BUT WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. I had it Towed back to the garage that installed the new transmission and they took it apart and checked it out. IT WAS NOT THE TRANSMISSION. We then towed van to Electrical repair shop. After reading these posts we replaced the PCM. Van drove fine for a few days and then IT WOULDN'T START. WHEN IT DID START IT DID NOT HAVE DRIVE OR REVERSE. RPM'S WERE GOING CRAZY EVEN THOUGH VAN WAS IN PARK. Again had van taken to transmission shop. Again he checked it out. When they disconnected the PCM the van was fine. So we towed back to electrical shop and put in another PCM. Got the van back after electrical shop owner and friend drove van for 2 weeks with no problems hoping to make sure problem was solved. I got van back on Friday, November 4. Drove fine. Drove van from Cleveland to Canton on Sat. Nov. 5. Van drove fine (2 hours round trip, plus errands). Drove van back to Canton on Sunday, Nov. 6. van ran fine all day. HOWEVER at 7 PM when I went to start it to drive one hour home to Cleveland the VAN WOULD NOT START, THEN IT WOULD START AND IDLE ROUGH. IT WOULD NOT SHIFT INTO DRIVE OR REVERSE. IT JUST REVVED. I left the van overnight. Got a ride home and drove back to Canton (1 hour away) on Monday, Nov. 7. Freestar started but WOULD NOT SHIFT INTO DRIVE OR REVERSE. I had van towed to electrical shop. THIS TIME VAN DISPLAYED THE SYMPTOMS FOR THE TECH THAT IT DID FOR ME. HE FINALLY FOUND THE PROBLEM!!! Water in the wire harness to and from the PCM! He drained it and dried it out and van runs PERFECT. SO HE CAULKED THE LIVING HELL OUT OF THE ENTIRE AREA WITH SILICONE. HE ALSO CAULKED THE RUBBER SEAM ON THE OUTSIDE OF VEHICLE JUST BELOW THE WIPERS. HE USED THREE TUBES OF SILICONE AND ALSO DRILLED HOLES TO ALLOW WATER TO RUN OUT AND AWAY FROM PCM. In the end it appears that water would build up and rest in the wire run. Then when I would drive at high speeds the capillary action would force the water down the line eventually shorting out and wreaking havoc with the PCM. PROBLEM APPEARS TO FINALLY BE SOLVED. WATERPROOF THE SEAL BY THE WIPERS. WATERPROOF THE COWL THAT LEADS DOWN INTO THE MOTOR. WATERPROOF THE WIRES TO AND FROM THE PCM!!!!!!!! FORD SUCKS!! THEY KNOW THIS PROBLEM EXISTS AND CHARGE CONSUMERS HUNDREDS IF NOT THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS TO "SEAL" THE PCM. MOST REPORT HAVING TO COME BACK SEVERAL TIMES. These problems are in addition to the transmission failures and torque converter failures that owners are experiencing!
I believe you have FOUND the answer for everyone with this problem. (maybe everyone could just use your mechanic) LOL! Anyways, I have read several forums and most all of them are the same thing. PCM getting water in it. Now the transmission issues, I believe are just for 2004-2005 Freestars, I have read that they are/or fixing to be recalled. Check online or with your Ford dealer. I found this on the FORD FORUM.com I have the 2007 SEL 4.2 model and have a problem with the electrical wires in the sliding door on driver side have been cut in two and i need to find a diagrahm or part name/number for this. Will post question in a different thread though.
I have a 2007 Freestar that has had the wires in the driver side sliding door cut and would like to know how to replace them and if there is a free wire diagrahm or a parts # that i could get. Thanks ahead of time.
My van is currently in the shop as we speak with PCM issues and it needs to be replaced. This is after I have had $760.00 worth of work already last week. I have already replaced a tie rod, the a/c unit and the torque converter a few years ago. I also have had issues with the driver side automatic sliding door not closing at times ( it will just pop back open ). I have also had the rear latch rust shut on me so that I could not open it. I had to take the panel from the inside off and spray WD40 or some other rust remover to get it to open again. This van was a complete design flaw and the engineer must have been on something when he/she did. Terrible, why oh why would you put the PCM under the windshield where water could possibly drain into it?? AND then have the audacity to charge me to fix a flaw in the design! We need as many people possible to file a complaint to https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/ so that this really starts to get attention. I did this a few years back when my torque converter failed and now they are issuing a recall on it. File complaints, do not let FORD win this one. The 2004 freestar was piece of crap from the start and they charged alot of people alot of money for and are still making money off of it from repairs. Go to https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/ and file!
My van has been at the shop 3 times since the end of January 2012. The first thing it was in for was the RPM were at 3 & would not come down. The Ford shop could not figure what was wrong & they updated the computer ($100). This only fixed the RPM problem somewhat - at least is was driveable. By mid-February my anti-theft system would not let me start my van. This was the second trip to the Ford shop. They diagnosed the problem as being the transceiver after keeping my van for a week. I picked up my van ($484) & the very next day I had the same problem - NO START. Back to the shop again & they tell me it is the PCM ($950). Today my van is done & they tell me that the PCM has been the problem all along with the RPM issues & the anti-theft. We will see how it is once I pick it up today!! I DID FILE A COMPLAINT WITH THE NHTSA & WITH FORD!!!
Good, hopefully more people will do the same. I think most of the problems with the freestar are because of the PCM, but Ford will not admit this. I finally said the heck with it and went out and bought a Honda Odyssey last night. I do not trust the freestar and I am afraid the next family trip we go on we will be left stranded somewhere.
Hello folks, I am hoping someone knows the answer to this or I'm letting this car go back to the Bank. So far I've had this deadstar to PepBoys, $ 500.00 they couldn't get it. Sent it to Ford dealership- $ 650.00 and then they want to experiment, try this and that. Test showed that it is not a gas pressure problem. they put a "breakout box" between computer and wiring harness to see what was shorting out, THEN ENGINE RUNS FINE. Ford Motor company says change out plugs and wires, and then new PC but at this point I am broke. I got car back-re-routed engine harness away from plug wires, no difference. I can not find any signs of water in the PC. I have pulled wiring harness apart- no water. Applied heat gun to harness connector- no difference. It is not the camshaft sensor. Pulled cover off PC and it is fine. Sort of at a loss now. . It is very odd that the engine runs fine when interconnected to the "breakout Box" which is just monitoring all the systems and checking for a short. I have gone over the connector and there is nothing wrong. Thank you for any help. Bob seashell1347@comcast.net
Hello, I have a 2005 ford freestar. The other day my 4 yr old shut the power door with the button on the inside, at the same time I turned the van on, which then the sliding door stopped half way and would not close. It has done this in the past and I just shut it manually and everything is fine. However, this time I shut it and my 4 yr old was pushing the interior button at the same time. Now I can't open the door with any buttons or manually. It will try to open and opens maybe 1/4 of an inch. Does anyone have any ideas how I can fix this. I have tried to pry on the latches to see if I can move the latch arm but that did not work so well. Thank you soooo much!!!!
Yes , try this, Disconnect your battery for ten minutes. this will reset the computer in the vehicle, when you reconnect it. this works for a number of malfunctions. try it and let us know if it works.
Just joined and hope to get some advice from you all......
Our 2004 Freestar (4.somthing) is having some issues.....
It all started one day when wife complained A/C was not cooling well. In addition, the check engine light came on. Took it to Advance Auto to check the code and came back with two codes (one being P0031 and the other I cannot remember but they both mentioned replacement of Oxygen sensor). At this point I took it to the repair shop and here is sequence of events as I know them:
Mechanic reports that the AC compressor is shot and that one of the Oxygen sensors is indeed bad so I say go ahead and replace.
Mechanic updates me with news saying that they cannot get the car started (Asked me for the security code - not sure why).
Mechanic reports that they finally got it started. Quote: "We disconnected the PCM and re-connected and it now runs - do ask me why"
I pick it up and drive it home. Seems OK and AC works great.
Next morning, drive kids to school and wife to work (I wanted to keep the van to drive and check out further). Drove about 15 miles total.
Came home, washed the van and picked up youngest from school (about another 5 miles).
Was going to drive van to pickup wife and van would not move as accelerated. Much "stuttering" when accelerating. Would not go more than 5 MPH even with bottom out of gas pedal. Check engine light and transaxle warning light on.
Towed back to shop.
Next day mechanic contacted me with news. PCM is shot. They found a used one ($225) and had Ford dealership "re-program" (whatever that means). They said they charged me no labor since they felt partly responsible (this statement got me to thinking...)
Picked up the van a few days later. Seemed to run OK. Now with about 25 miles on it - same symptoms (stuttering, check engine light and transaxle light).
Took back to the shop.
Mechanic now reports that something is wrong with the fuse box. With van running, if you tap the fuse box, the van shuts off. He plans to show me this when I go back today.\
Now I wonder, could they have done something to cause this chain of events? Could it be that the fuse box was the culprit all along (some sort of intermittent short)?
sigh......I just want a good qualified and dependable mechanic.......
Please, please go to NHTSA and file a complaint. This part is obviously defective from DAY ONE. I took to mechanic who said alternator was overcharging. He put on a new alternator--still overcharging. Said it was PCM issue removed new alternator and replaced it with the original alternator. This is the exact same issue in Oct/Nov 11 when we ultimately had dealer replace PCM to the tune of $1000plus. Took to dealer in ealry June 12, described issue, they insisted it was alternator--put on 4 different alternators over the course of the week. Every one experienced the same issue. Said Ford kept telling them to do so. Finally found a PCM on lot and replaced it in my car--IT WORKED! GUESS WHAT. PCMs are on backorder for who knows how long. Ford Corporate complaint to get rental car not authorized. So in addition to a deathtrap due to a torque convertor that parts are not in, I am in a deathtrap that the entire electrical system could shut down on a moments's notice. Dealer advises not to drive vehicle. So what am I supposed to do for transportation?? When will a PCM be available--I can't be the only one waiting on this part (maybe that should be an indicator that this is a recall issue!) Please visit NHTSA and file a complaint since not enough people have done so. This is an obvious safety issue and this car was obviously sold with PCM issues. Just check the numerous technical service bulletins.
I have had the same problem. I have taken it to Freeway Ford dealership and they told me it was my battery. I took the battery back were I purchased it and it checked out fine. I have days were it runs fine and days were it just want start at all.
Have had car in dealership four times in 2012. First time for power steering pump asy and gear asy-steering. Next for fuel pump and fuel rail sensor in May 2012. Two weeks later in for throttle air and engine control which I believe is the PCM. Also did a recall problem -torque converter replacement. Now, had a dead battery. The DVD player comes on at will, radio comes on when it decides to and my car alarm goes off for no reason. I can't lock my car without being concerned about the alarm beeping for no reason.
I am so discouraged and do not know what to expect next and don't know what to do about the electrical issues. Any ideas anyone?
my freestar is dead... was blowing fuses for the radio for 2 days..now van wont start.. apparently the main computer control thing is dead.... this is soo wrong for a 6 yr old van. anybody else have issues with this?? i am sure this will be costly... also my cluster dash has been dead for a year now..
:lemon: I,ve have this same problem with my ford freestar 2005. I'd be going on a brigde or an upgrade at 3000RPM's then the engine stalls and dies. I'M able to start it while costing, simply putting it in nuetral, turning off the ignition fully then restart. But, this problem has to stop. my kids, me and wife, i need a solution to this problem!!!!!!! :lemon:
I have an 05 Freestar, the tire light came on mine as well butt all my tires was good too. I got the hair brained idea to check my spare and that was it, it was low. I allso get the traction control light on as well, that one is what im on here looking for the answer for, lol. Good luck
This is an ongoing problem with the 2004 and 2005 Ford Freestars. It is water going through the vents of the wipers running down the wiring harness and shorting out the chip for the transmission among other things. Ford is well aware of the problem but do not want to take the steps to fix it. I have had it shorted out twice both time I have been on the road with children in my vehicle. Luck was with me both times as that the roads were not busy and there was no one behind me to case in accident. Get in touch with your local BBB or contact https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/. If enough complaints go to the NHTSA there will be an investigation and they can force Ford to recall the vehicle and fix it right. The current recall for the Torque Converter is not fixing the problem there is other issues with the vehicle and Ford just refuses to take care of it.
Yesterday I cleaned the car battery terminals with a brush because it has some corrosion build up. Right after cleaning it I tried starting the car and it would turn over please anyone who can help me determine if the battery is actually dead or if corrosion is the problem please respond all help is appreciated.
Yesterday I cleaned the car battery terminals with a brush because it has some corrosion build up. Right after cleaning it I tried starting the car and it would turn over please anyone who can help me determine if the battery is actually dead or if corrosion is the problem please respond all help is appreciated.
i have a 2004 freestar, the pass window stoped working. @80k miles. i opened the door panel, got to look @ window motor. all was good. by the looks. with the key in the run position, and the door switch pluged back in, i taped on the motor. the same time, with the door switch in the down position. well after 6 good HITS. the window works ALL THE TIME NOW. YA RIGHT? TAKE IT TO A FORD DEALER AND $500.00 HE WILL FIX IT. WAKE UP PEOPLE, IF I FIXED IT WITH A HARD TAP. WOULD THE FORD DEALER DO THE SAME? AND CHARGE ME $ 500.00? ALL THE CARS AND TRUCKS WE BUY ARE ALL, ALL, ALL JUNK. shabby work, low cost parts, that do NOT last long. my window was stuck in the upper limit switch. oh sure, the motor DID click when i pushed any button. try this on yours, and save FACE AND MONEY. THEN YOU TOO CAN LAUGH AT FORD. LIKE I DO.....
I have a 2004 freestar, its ok,as fords go. it has 80k on it and the cruz works when it wants to, or never. now, the van starts when it wants to. battery is very clean, i replaced the battery 9 months ago. now believe this or NOT, i sprayed WD40 very heavy on the starter relay, on the starter. BINGO? it started, and i restarted it 4 times after that. well i thought that was it. was i WRONG!!! 1 HR later i forgot my flashlite in the van, and after getting it out. i said? WILL IT START? HELL NO. WOULD NOT EVEN CRANK OVER. i will look at it in the morning. too dark. i did jump the starter relay, and it cranked over, every time. BUT WOULD NOT START. AND YES THE KEY WAS IN THE ON POSITION, WHEN IT JUMPED IT. anybody got any ideas? Leasureman
ive had problems with my radio on my freestar. the buttons didnt work and then the battery was being drained and i couldnt start it in the mornings. At the same time i was starting the car the radio came on suddenly. I disconnected the radio and i am looking for some one to fix it.
In 2007, I bought 2005 Freestar that used to be a lease. I had no problems with it until March 2011. I was having problems with slight stuttering. I took it to my dad's friend who owned an auto clinic. They replaced the fuel pump. The stuttering stopped. 8 months later, there started a loud squealing (sounded like the belt was slipping) and the engine and RPMs started going up and down like it was going to stop. About 2 or 3 seconds later, it stalls. Had no problem restarting it while in neutral or park. Check engine light came on reading P0340. Error with Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP). I change the Tension Pulley, then the Idler Pulley, Power Stirring Pump. Also replaced the CMP. No luck. In January 2012, I starting taking the Alternator apart. when I started playing with the pulley on it, I heard a weird scratching. So I replaced the Alternator. At first, the engine sounded way better. I pressed down on the gas peddle and the squealing only lasted for a fraction of a second but then stalled out. I later learned that I could drive up to 60 MPH as long as the RPMs don't go past 2,000. Drove 36 miles on the interstate and it never stalled out. As an experiment, I revved up the engine. When it went over 2,000 RMPs, it still stalled out. Ford wanted a $100 just to look at it. I left and would live with it. In April 2012, while waiting for the recall parts to come in stock at the dealership, my Freestar starting running normal again with no problems. No squealing and no stalling when I dive over 2,000 RPMs. The check engine light is off. I still went ahead and called Ford for the recall and they told me they wouldn't replace the part unless it wasn't working.
In the meantime, one of the rear-side mirrors won't always open or close. Then the A/C won't work in the rear. And the inside Door handle on the passenger side sliding door won't open the door. Until I have the money and the time to get to the door issue, I can live with these.
Then on the first week of December 2012, the check engine light came on. Code P0401. EGR malfunction or vacuum hose leak or clogged. A month later, it started losing power and it stalled out. The next day I drove it 19 miles each way to work and from work. Sound and acted normal. The next day, my wife drove it again and it started shaking and stalled out. I then noticed that I could only drive 20 MPH and keeping the RMPs low, the van wouldn't stall out. I then did some checking on it and saw that the EGR was bad and replaced it in Jan 2013. The check engine light went out. Suddenly the engine started shaking bad. RPMs started going up and down constantly and would stall out. I rechecked the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pressure. Nothing wrong. So it's not a fuel issue. Changed the spark plugs. No success. I put the top plastic pieces and the wipers back on, made sure I plugged them in. The wipers won't work no. Drove home slowly at 20 MPH and then went up to O'Reilly's and did a computer check. It shown code P0340, which is the Camshaft Position Sensor again. This time I'm going to check the wiring. I'm also going to check the PCM.
I had a situation simular to yours. I had put in a new battery around May 2012. Around October 2012 my van wouldn't start. I jumped it and it started and stayed running. The next day it was dead again. I took it to Auto Zone to do a check and they said the battery and alternator was working fine. I did some checking with a friend, and he tried a drain test and found out that the new alternator I had installed had a drain and was drawing power from my battery constantly. I took the alternator back to Auto Zone and put in the new one. It was no longer drawing power from the battery when the van is turned off.
The test also shown that a lot of power was also being drain into the fuse box.
The Answer to all the problem everyone is having thinking its the battery and starter isn't the problem...the answer to the problem is the PCM=power control module whick is located under the the black cover the windshield wipers are connected to...the water is getting in the wiring and everything wet which is causing the transmission code to come up and the spuddering and the trans not to engage in gear at times...failure to fix it on fords part everyone is having the same problem...what needs to be done is the black cover needs to be taken off and something put over the PCM to keep it from getting wet but first needs to be dried out and then put back together. hope that helps everyone.
I had similar problems with my 2005 Freestar 4.2 - what it turned out to be was Camshaft Position Sensor & Synchronizer. You have to replace this part completely to sort out squealing problem (thinking it is the belts) and RPMs' going up and down. I had my repair done at Ford Dealership.
Comments
Also, before I tried reprogramming the remotes, my son happened to be looking out the house window & saw the side door on the van open and close on its own. Both remotes were untouched in a drawer on the other side of the house. Would these issues be symptoms of something goofy with the Smart Junction Box?
Sorry for my English, I speak French.
after 3 times I gave it to them and went and bought a Toyota while I still had credit. Ford almost cost me my maintenance business. I would like to see them Take care of the Judgement. I could not afford to pay 425.00 per month on a 3 year old freestar that kept shorting out.
Thanks
Now the transmission issues, I believe are just for 2004-2005 Freestars, I have read that they are/or fixing to be recalled. Check online or with your Ford dealer. I found this on the FORD FORUM.com
I have the 2007 SEL 4.2 model and have a problem with the electrical wires in the sliding door on driver side have been cut in two and i need to find a diagrahm or part name/number for this. Will post question in a different thread though.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhjEVBMuxJw
So far I've had this deadstar to PepBoys, $ 500.00 they couldn't get it. Sent it to Ford dealership- $ 650.00 and then they want to experiment, try this and that. Test showed that it is not a gas pressure problem. they put a "breakout box" between computer and wiring harness to see what was shorting out, THEN ENGINE RUNS FINE. Ford Motor company says change out plugs and wires, and then new PC but at this point I am broke. I got car back-re-routed engine harness away from plug wires, no difference. I can not find any signs of water in the PC. I have pulled wiring harness apart- no water. Applied heat gun to harness connector- no difference. It is not the camshaft sensor. Pulled cover off PC and it is fine. Sort of at a loss now. . It is very odd that the engine runs fine when interconnected to the "breakout Box" which is just monitoring all the systems and checking for a short. I have gone over the connector and there is nothing wrong. Thank you for any help. Bob
seashell1347@comcast.net
Just joined and hope to get some advice from you all......
Our 2004 Freestar (4.somthing) is having some issues.....
It all started one day when wife complained A/C was not cooling well. In addition, the check engine light came on. Took it to Advance Auto to check the code and came back with two codes (one being P0031 and the other I cannot remember but they both mentioned replacement of Oxygen sensor). At this point I took it to the repair shop and here is sequence of events as I know them:
Mechanic reports that the AC compressor is shot and that one of the Oxygen sensors is indeed bad so I say go ahead and replace.
Mechanic updates me with news saying that they cannot get the car started (Asked me for the security code - not sure why).
Mechanic reports that they finally got it started. Quote: "We disconnected the PCM and re-connected and it now runs - do ask me why"
I pick it up and drive it home. Seems OK and AC works great.
Next morning, drive kids to school and wife to work (I wanted to keep the van to drive and check out further). Drove about 15 miles total.
Came home, washed the van and picked up youngest from school (about another 5 miles).
Was going to drive van to pickup wife and van would not move as accelerated. Much "stuttering" when accelerating. Would not go more than 5 MPH even with bottom out of gas pedal. Check engine light and transaxle warning light on.
Towed back to shop.
Next day mechanic contacted me with news. PCM is shot. They found a used one ($225) and had Ford dealership "re-program" (whatever that means). They said they charged me no labor since they felt partly responsible (this statement got me to thinking...)
Picked up the van a few days later. Seemed to run OK. Now with about 25 miles on it - same symptoms (stuttering, check engine light and transaxle light).
Took back to the shop.
Mechanic now reports that something is wrong with the fuse box. With van running, if you tap the fuse box, the van shuts off. He plans to show me this when I go back today.\
Now I wonder, could they have done something to cause this chain of events? Could it be that the fuse box was the culprit all along (some sort of intermittent short)?
sigh......I just want a good qualified and dependable mechanic.......
Many thanks in advance for your tips/advice.....
I am so discouraged and do not know what to expect next and don't know what to do about the electrical issues. Any ideas anyone?
I'd be going on a brigde or an upgrade at 3000RPM's then the engine stalls and dies. I'M able to start it while costing, simply putting it in nuetral, turning off the ignition fully then restart. But, this problem has to stop. my kids, me and wife, i need a solution to this problem!!!!!!! :lemon:
i opened the door panel, got to look @ window motor. all was good.
by the looks.
with the key in the run position, and the door switch pluged back in,
i taped on the motor. the same time, with the door switch in the down position.
well after 6 good HITS. the window works ALL THE TIME NOW.
YA RIGHT? TAKE IT TO A FORD DEALER AND $500.00 HE WILL FIX IT.
WAKE UP PEOPLE, IF I FIXED IT WITH A HARD TAP. WOULD THE FORD DEALER DO THE SAME?
AND CHARGE ME $ 500.00? ALL THE CARS AND TRUCKS WE BUY ARE ALL, ALL, ALL JUNK.
shabby work, low cost parts, that do NOT last long. my window was stuck in the upper limit switch. oh sure, the motor DID click when i pushed any button. try this on yours, and save FACE AND MONEY. THEN YOU TOO CAN LAUGH AT FORD. LIKE I DO.....
it has 80k on it and the cruz works when it wants to, or never.
now, the van starts when it wants to. battery is very clean, i replaced the battery 9 months ago.
now believe this or NOT, i sprayed WD40 very heavy on the starter relay, on the starter.
BINGO? it started, and i restarted it 4 times after that. well i thought that was it. was i WRONG!!!
1 HR later i forgot my flashlite in the van, and after getting it out. i said? WILL IT START?
HELL NO. WOULD NOT EVEN CRANK OVER. i will look at it in the morning. too dark.
i did jump the starter relay, and it cranked over, every time. BUT WOULD NOT START.
AND YES THE KEY WAS IN THE ON POSITION, WHEN IT JUMPED IT.
anybody got any ideas? Leasureman
In the meantime, one of the rear-side mirrors won't always open or close. Then the A/C won't work in the rear. And the inside Door handle on the passenger side sliding door won't open the door. Until I have the money and the time to get to the door issue, I can live with these.
Then on the first week of December 2012, the check engine light came on. Code P0401. EGR malfunction or vacuum hose leak or clogged. A month later, it started losing power and it stalled out. The next day I drove it 19 miles each way to work and from work. Sound and acted normal. The next day, my wife drove it again and it started shaking and stalled out. I then noticed that I could only drive 20 MPH and keeping the RMPs low, the van wouldn't stall out. I then did some checking on it and saw that the EGR was bad and replaced it in Jan 2013. The check engine light went out. Suddenly the engine started shaking bad. RPMs started going up and down constantly and would stall out. I rechecked the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pressure. Nothing wrong. So it's not a fuel issue. Changed the spark plugs. No success. I put the top plastic pieces and the wipers back on, made sure I plugged them in. The wipers won't work no. Drove home slowly at 20 MPH and then went up to O'Reilly's and did a computer check. It shown code P0340, which is the Camshaft Position Sensor again. This time I'm going to check the wiring. I'm also going to check the PCM.
The test also shown that a lot of power was also being drain into the fuse box.
Check for a battery drain.
Immediately after, took my daughter on a test drive to show her what the van was doing. Wouldn't you know the *$&!$ van worked perfectly???