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Also, before I tried reprogramming the remotes, my son happened to be looking out the house window & saw the side door on the van open and close on its own. Both remotes were untouched in a drawer on the other side of the house. Would these issues be symptoms of something goofy with the Smart Junction Box?
Sorry for my English, I speak French.
after 3 times I gave it to them and went and bought a Toyota while I still had credit. Ford almost cost me my maintenance business. I would like to see them Take care of the Judgement. I could not afford to pay 425.00 per month on a 3 year old freestar that kept shorting out.
Thanks
Now the transmission issues, I believe are just for 2004-2005 Freestars, I have read that they are/or fixing to be recalled. Check online or with your Ford dealer. I found this on the FORD FORUM.com
I have the 2007 SEL 4.2 model and have a problem with the electrical wires in the sliding door on driver side have been cut in two and i need to find a diagrahm or part name/number for this. Will post question in a different thread though.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhjEVBMuxJw
So far I've had this deadstar to PepBoys, $ 500.00 they couldn't get it. Sent it to Ford dealership- $ 650.00 and then they want to experiment, try this and that. Test showed that it is not a gas pressure problem. they put a "breakout box" between computer and wiring harness to see what was shorting out, THEN ENGINE RUNS FINE. Ford Motor company says change out plugs and wires, and then new PC but at this point I am broke. I got car back-re-routed engine harness away from plug wires, no difference. I can not find any signs of water in the PC. I have pulled wiring harness apart- no water. Applied heat gun to harness connector- no difference. It is not the camshaft sensor. Pulled cover off PC and it is fine. Sort of at a loss now. . It is very odd that the engine runs fine when interconnected to the "breakout Box" which is just monitoring all the systems and checking for a short. I have gone over the connector and there is nothing wrong. Thank you for any help. Bob
seashell1347@comcast.net
Just joined and hope to get some advice from you all......
Our 2004 Freestar (4.somthing) is having some issues.....
It all started one day when wife complained A/C was not cooling well. In addition, the check engine light came on. Took it to Advance Auto to check the code and came back with two codes (one being P0031 and the other I cannot remember but they both mentioned replacement of Oxygen sensor). At this point I took it to the repair shop and here is sequence of events as I know them:
Mechanic reports that the AC compressor is shot and that one of the Oxygen sensors is indeed bad so I say go ahead and replace.
Mechanic updates me with news saying that they cannot get the car started (Asked me for the security code - not sure why).
Mechanic reports that they finally got it started. Quote: "We disconnected the PCM and re-connected and it now runs - do ask me why"
I pick it up and drive it home. Seems OK and AC works great.
Next morning, drive kids to school and wife to work (I wanted to keep the van to drive and check out further). Drove about 15 miles total.
Came home, washed the van and picked up youngest from school (about another 5 miles).
Was going to drive van to pickup wife and van would not move as accelerated. Much "stuttering" when accelerating. Would not go more than 5 MPH even with bottom out of gas pedal. Check engine light and transaxle warning light on.
Towed back to shop.
Next day mechanic contacted me with news. PCM is shot. They found a used one ($225) and had Ford dealership "re-program" (whatever that means). They said they charged me no labor since they felt partly responsible (this statement got me to thinking...)
Picked up the van a few days later. Seemed to run OK. Now with about 25 miles on it - same symptoms (stuttering, check engine light and transaxle light).
Took back to the shop.
Mechanic now reports that something is wrong with the fuse box. With van running, if you tap the fuse box, the van shuts off. He plans to show me this when I go back today.\
Now I wonder, could they have done something to cause this chain of events? Could it be that the fuse box was the culprit all along (some sort of intermittent short)?
sigh......I just want a good qualified and dependable mechanic.......
Many thanks in advance for your tips/advice.....
I am so discouraged and do not know what to expect next and don't know what to do about the electrical issues. Any ideas anyone?
I'd be going on a brigde or an upgrade at 3000RPM's then the engine stalls and dies. I'M able to start it while costing, simply putting it in nuetral, turning off the ignition fully then restart. But, this problem has to stop. my kids, me and wife, i need a solution to this problem!!!!!!! :lemon:
i opened the door panel, got to look @ window motor. all was good.
by the looks.
with the key in the run position, and the door switch pluged back in,
i taped on the motor. the same time, with the door switch in the down position.
well after 6 good HITS. the window works ALL THE TIME NOW.
YA RIGHT? TAKE IT TO A FORD DEALER AND $500.00 HE WILL FIX IT.
WAKE UP PEOPLE, IF I FIXED IT WITH A HARD TAP. WOULD THE FORD DEALER DO THE SAME?
AND CHARGE ME $ 500.00? ALL THE CARS AND TRUCKS WE BUY ARE ALL, ALL, ALL JUNK.
shabby work, low cost parts, that do NOT last long. my window was stuck in the upper limit switch. oh sure, the motor DID click when i pushed any button. try this on yours, and save FACE AND MONEY. THEN YOU TOO CAN LAUGH AT FORD. LIKE I DO.....
it has 80k on it and the cruz works when it wants to, or never.
now, the van starts when it wants to. battery is very clean, i replaced the battery 9 months ago.
now believe this or NOT, i sprayed WD40 very heavy on the starter relay, on the starter.
BINGO? it started, and i restarted it 4 times after that. well i thought that was it. was i WRONG!!!
1 HR later i forgot my flashlite in the van, and after getting it out. i said? WILL IT START?
HELL NO. WOULD NOT EVEN CRANK OVER. i will look at it in the morning. too dark.
i did jump the starter relay, and it cranked over, every time. BUT WOULD NOT START.
AND YES THE KEY WAS IN THE ON POSITION, WHEN IT JUMPED IT.
anybody got any ideas? Leasureman
In the meantime, one of the rear-side mirrors won't always open or close. Then the A/C won't work in the rear. And the inside Door handle on the passenger side sliding door won't open the door. Until I have the money and the time to get to the door issue, I can live with these.
Then on the first week of December 2012, the check engine light came on. Code P0401. EGR malfunction or vacuum hose leak or clogged. A month later, it started losing power and it stalled out. The next day I drove it 19 miles each way to work and from work. Sound and acted normal. The next day, my wife drove it again and it started shaking and stalled out. I then noticed that I could only drive 20 MPH and keeping the RMPs low, the van wouldn't stall out. I then did some checking on it and saw that the EGR was bad and replaced it in Jan 2013. The check engine light went out. Suddenly the engine started shaking bad. RPMs started going up and down constantly and would stall out. I rechecked the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel pressure. Nothing wrong. So it's not a fuel issue. Changed the spark plugs. No success. I put the top plastic pieces and the wipers back on, made sure I plugged them in. The wipers won't work no. Drove home slowly at 20 MPH and then went up to O'Reilly's and did a computer check. It shown code P0340, which is the Camshaft Position Sensor again. This time I'm going to check the wiring. I'm also going to check the PCM.
The test also shown that a lot of power was also being drain into the fuse box.
Check for a battery drain.
Immediately after, took my daughter on a test drive to show her what the van was doing. Wouldn't you know the *$&!$ van worked perfectly???