Thanks for the TRD supercharger idea. I really had not considered it. Yea, the Toureg is awesome, but the V10 TDI in the USA is too far away for me.
But I would still like to know if anybody knows when the 2004 TLC & LX470 models will go on sale. Does anybody remember what month in 2002 that the 2003 models went on sale? Do the TLC and the LX470 go on sale at the same time?
the '03 LX hit the east coast a month or two after the TLC. if i remember correctly, the TLC was available in Oct/Nov and the LX was in Dec. There were significant changes from the previous model year, so that may have forced a delay in delivery. that's just my guess, though. we bought our LX in mid-Sept '02, and there were still quite a few sitting on the lots.
Redesigned models on a 7-year schedule: 1991 1998 2005
The current 100 models were designed in a different era. 2005 will have some big changes so the factory will need to retool. More HP is coming. The 2004's will come around October and will be the same as the 2003's.
Not to put too fine a point on it, but the quality of replies you'll get on this are in direct correlation to the amount of information you provide. For starters, how about:
Miles? Ownership/use history? Maintenance history? Problem started suddenly, or over time? Idle problem when cold, warm, etc?
Sorry about that, also the rpm range is 1800-2000.
I purchased the vehicle in Jan. '03 with 82K miles. I noticed the vibration immediately. It is not a really pronounced vibration. Above and below the listed rpm range the vehicle is really smooth. The transfer case shift lever seems to really vibrate on acceleration. The idle seems to be a little rough at all times. Since I bought it, I have had all fluids changed and new spark plugs. Do you think higher octance fuel would help, maybe some sort of fuel additive. The service tech suggested new spark plug wires, rotor, etc. THANKS
-Check that the thick rubber engine intake tube is not cracked on the bottom (often happens when techs yank on them too hard to change the air filter). -If it has not had a new rotor since new, replace it. -Clean the throttle valve edges and seat.
The 1800 rpm roughness is kind of a puzzler, but is most likely fuel related - injectors, I'd guess. Get two bottles of Techron Concentrate (not the regular bottle) for about $10 at most auto parts stores and use as directed for two consecutive tankfuls. Use it when you're driving the truck for typical errand running as it's more effective this way than on a long freeway trip. If you get an improvement (I suspect you will), then go for a third bottle - the previous owner was using some pretty low grade fuel and the injector tips have some deposits on them. If you cannot get full satisfaction after this, find a shop that can do a "hot flush" of the injection system. This consists of running a harsh solvent through the injectors while the car is running and is quite effective in fully cleaning them if that was the issue.
Replacing the plug wires is kind of a rough thing to do since the mechanic can easily test them for proper resistance (figure is in the shop manual) and they're very expensive as a shot in the dark (over $150).
Does it have this roughness when you rev it to 1800 in Park? Does your engine rev to 1800-2000 when started after sitting overnight?
Thanks idahodoug. I will do the things that you suggested and check if the engine idles rough at 1800-2000 in park. I will also check what it idles at when first started in the morning.
Can anyone advise the best way to lubricate the window seals on our 93 LC? The back windows are squeaky,and we don't want to stress the regulators more than we have to. My husband is worried that some products may leave a film.
You're wise to lube the window tracks, as for some reason the 80 power windows are kinda slow and seem underpowered. In fact, a few in my club have experienced issues with power mechanisms in the door coming off the track, etc. Some of these are used quite heavily offroad, but still worth noting.
At any rate, I sprayed white lithium grease into the vertical tracks of all four doors. Get a can of it and use it liberally, then wipe off the excess. This product will not attack the rubber holding the felt seals as some lubes will, and it will last longer than, say, a silicone spray. Yes, there will be a bit on the window near the track, but after you've washed the windows once or twice it will only be deep in the seals where the friction occurs against the glass.
The real cure to these slow windows is to open up the doors and clean out the gear drive mechanism, then lube them and the internal parts. The factory grease hardens with age and produces too much internal friction - especially when its cold out. I saw only a slight speed improvement, but also got a drop in wind noise as an immediate side benefit.
If your squeak is inside the door (not the windows sliding on the dry seals), then it might be worth an afternoon's work to open the doors if your hubbie is handy at this sort of thing. Then, I'd recommend a synthetic grease so you won't have to open them again before the 80 finally wears out at around 600,000 miles....
I have a '98 LC and like most have experienced little or no problems over the last 3 years I've owned it. I am now hearing (esp. during low outside temps) a "rubbing" type noise from the steering column as I turn the wheel. It seems to go away as outside temp exceeds 50 degrees.
In addition, I have recently determined that the "Power" button that activitates the higher transmission shift point to extend low-end acceleration does not activate that function. When the button is released, the light on the dash goes out with no change in shift point occurring. My concern is that this may indicate a transmission problem or just a problem with the switch controlling the function.
Has anyone else experienced these problems & can you give me input on corrective action.
I've lived in cold northern climates most of my life and have had several vehicles that had a steering squeek in the column on cold days. Finally figured out on one that it was merely the contact for the horn ring that gives the horn power. Since then, every car that's done it got a shot of silicone in the gap between the wheel and column. Instant shutup, and best done on a cold day in mid squeek so you get full satisfaction. On some, you can actually see the little thin strip of metal that drags on the circular ring.
No clue on the power switch, but my guess would be a defective switch since it will activate the light until you let go.
You are really a busy guy on this site. We all appreciate your expertise and help. I checked my truck in Park at 1800-2100 rpm's, no vibration noted. Also checked the cold idle, approx. 1200 rpm's. Like I said, this vibration is subtle. My son drove it yesterday, and he said that he could feel the same vibration, especially going up a hill.
I have a 91 LC (the new shape that came in around that time) with 103,000 which is not that mush for the age, but I have a horrible rotating sounding noise coming from the front end somewhere. I got some noise last week and took it for its regular service and the guys in the shop (not a T Dealer as the T Dealer is way too expensive and has caused me grief in the past) couldnt hear anything. This noise comes and goes, and today I got "the noise" - grinding roatation sound. The guys in the shop are now guessing its the Universal Joint. Does this make sense anyone?
Thanks for the kind comment. Most of my adult life and career deals with cars and I enjoy just about every aspect about them.
If you can't discern a vibration in Park, then it's clearly something caused by load or the moving drivetrain. I'm assuming all the fluids (center diff, front diff, rear diff, tranny) are topped up and the drive shaft CV joints have been properly lubed. If so, the most likely culprit is the front driveshaft has been taken off and improperly replaced. Most drive shafts are assembled with the "ears" in phase - meaning the ears on the front joint line up with the rear joint. Very unusual, but the front shaft on the 80 is supposed to be assembled with the ears 90 degrees to each other. A mechanic unaware of this Cruiser lore would naturally put it together wrong. Lay under the truck and see if the heavy cast iron ears (look like massive two pronged fork) are correctly installed. If I didn't explain this enough, feel free to tell me.
Couple questions for you:
Once at the vibration speed, can you discern any difference by coasting, accelerating?
If you put the truck in low range, does it still have this same vibration at the same RPM? or does it change RPM, but remain at the same vehicle speed as it occured in high range?
With the hood up and someone experienced at the wheel, can you push on the gas and cause the engine to move quite a bit (this would indicate an engine mount worn out)?
Is the vibration felt in any part of the vehicle in particular - steering wheel, seat?
First, be sure the front diff oil is topped off. Second, is there any maintenance history on the front axle? The hubs need to be repacked approx every 60k. This repack puts fresh grease in the area where the birfield joint (stronger version of a CV joint) resides.
Personally, I don't think you have an issue with the joint if the vehicle's been even casually maintained with that low mileage. I'd be more apt to suspect a brake issue (gravel in the caliper, brake shoe worn to metal, etc) than the running gear.
When does the sound appear? When does it disappear? How long have you had this vehicle and what do you know about its history?
I found a lx450 with 69k mi and the interior is in almost new condition and the price is $23k, great deal..? I ran carfax and found it has a 9500mi rollback mid life between a 4 month period. The car had a smog check with one recorded mileage and 4 months later it changed title and recorded a 9500mi decrease. I sure like this truck, does anybody know of any other service to get history reports? Can a good mechanic tell mileage by checking the computer? I looked at driving patterns the car should have been driven +/- 8k miles during the 4 months + the 9500mi and It could have an additional 17k miles on it. any advice out there? thanks!
A rollback is a rollback - don't try to research, guess how many miles it REALLY has or justify it in your mind enough to buy it. Whomever rolled the odometer back might have done a dozen other things to it, and probably did if the'd break a law that has hard time backing it up. I wouldn't touch it with a ten foot pole.
Are there side airbags in a 99 LC? Edmunds says there is and then under safety says this is not available.
Another question, I am looking at a 99 LC with a rebuilt title. I have been told the accident was minor, just drivers side fender and spindle damage. Anyone with experience as to why an insurance company would write a vehicle off with so little damage. 1999 leased vehicle damaged in 2000, with about 25000 miles.
Check into your state's requirements for each title notification type (salvage title, rebuilt title, Class 4, etc). They vary by state and this will give you an idea what level of damage compels the owner to encumber the title with each notification type. If the title history shows the vehicle crossed state lines and was retitled after the accident/repair - stay clear. This is a common way of "sanitizing" a title.
For instance, a vehicle with 30% or more of its value spent in repair might be correctly classified as a "salvage title" in state A. Knowing that state B would let it be titled as a mere "accident repair", they'll sell it to themselves in that state. Then, they can ship it to your state and still call it that lower level and hope nobody demands details. Common.
Ask for written copies of the repair paperwork and usually this is the last you'll ever hear from them. Anybody who's selling an encumbered title like this and claims they don't have this paperwork is either an idiot, or they're lying because they don't want you to see that the car was basically sawed in half and welded together with the front end of another salvage car whose opposite end was damaged.
Personally, I feel the money "saved" in getting one of these badly damaged vehicles is often spent with much grief later when mysterious problems pop up that nobody can diagnose because the wiring system was spliced by some guy named Vinny while trying to get the car out the door so another salvage project can be started. I've personally seen them for sale with no bulbs in the airbag lights because the "repair" place couldn't figure out what to do with the blown airbags and the warning lights on the dash. These places operate at the fringes of the auto industry and are something to be wary of.
When I started this morning, my 2000 land cruiser 's ABS, VSC trac, and VSC off lights stayed on. Did any one have the same problem? I guess I need to go to Toyota dealer. Don
My 2000 (27k miles) TLC's anntena seems to get stuck just before it reaches the bottom, leaving a 1-2 inch portion above the body panel - tried to lube it up on my own, took it to the dealer for an oil change and told them about it - they also lubed it up, but noted that many times they get bent - that has never happened. I have also noticed a number of TLC's with similar anntena stubs poking up - Bottom line, is there a history of this happening? Is there a service alert out there somewhere that my dealer doesn't want to deal with? Seems strange that a $50 vehicle would have this issue.
Also, is it true that you can take your TLC to the Lexus shop for service (warranty and non-warranty)? My dealer sucks big-time and I'd love to bypass them.
Happend to me two or three times for my 2000 TLC -first 2 times it was just that my wife had hit the "off" switch, the 3rd time, I havd no clue what happened - just turned the thing off and let is sit - when I started it up - there was nothing wrong - go figure?
Can anybody out there run a service history report on a 99 TLC? jt3ht05j4x0038017. What are the service rules with a lease? Do the lease companies require owners to have regular service done to protect their investment? What is the motivation for somebody leasing a car to take care of it mechanically? Thanks for your help with previous questions, as you can tell I'm in the market for a 98 or 99 TLC or LX450 and am finding some interesting deals out there like the above TLC with 63k miles for $25,200 one owner (lease) california car good shape... Thanks again
I am considering selling my vehicle to buy a new Landcruiser. I currently have a 1997 FJ80 with 90K that I have owned since 34K (off lease purchase). It was a certified vehicle at the time of purchase and I have taken good care of it.
My concern, after reading several posts, is: am I making a mistake selling this vehicle and purchasing a 2001-2003 Landcrusier? Many say the 1997 is the last year of the "real" Landcruiser.
I do not go off-road and put an equal amount of city and highway miles on vehicles. I "think" I want the V8 as I love the way my wife's Lexus LS 400 performs. I actually like the way the 1997 looks more than the 1998-2003 version.
Should I also look at the new Lexus GX (the LX 470 is too much $$)? (The new 4Runner's square wheel wells are a turn-off to me so I would not consider them)
Also, for those of you that have them, is a used 2001-2002 LX 470 worth the premium over the same year Landcruiser?
My 99 Cruiser with 65k miles has developed a noticeable thump in All Wheel Drive. It thumps when accelerating from a complete stop, say at a light. And when I disengage the All Wheel Drive then re-engage it, there is a VERY noticeable thump. It was not there a week ago.
The 80 series LandCruiser is regarded by many as the last of a legend in terms of offroad prowess. However, if this means nothing to you then it makes no sense to have the tradeoffs of rougher ride and less performance of this model in favor of the newer model. The newer model is no slouch in terms of ruggedness or durability, but it definitely is a far better road machine.
Alpinerose - Your LandCruiser is full time 4WD, and cannot have this engaged and disengaged. Perhaps you could try again on the problem/symptoms? Thanks. Also, if all four of your tires are not the same diameter then you can feel a bit of a thump upon startup. Have they been regularly rotated and replaced in sets of 4?
Thanks for your reply. I have had this thing since new, the mileage is low as I gave up skiing when my kids starting playing school sports - so no more long trips to Vermont. Thats why I am a little upset that I have a problem as this is still a relatively low mileage.
I did indeed have a grease packing issue a few miles back, around 70/80,000 as I recall in fact the dealer took three attempts to get it right as I kept getting grease leaks all over he hubs and breaks. Thats the main reason I dont use a Toyota dealer anymore - Toyota City didn't seem capable of fixing their own products. My mechanic reckons its not breaks and they told me they checked all the fluids.
When this noise appears (and it comes and goes) and I shift to neutral the noise does not go away so although I am no expert it would appear not to be transmission but either axle or differential - the noise is up front somewhere. My mechanic said that the grease packing was OK. He also said that to check the diff would require a lot of manhours just to take a look.
I recently took my 98 TLC in to my local Toyota dealer for a front brake job. The service manager recommended that I also have the timing belt replaced since my mileage was approaching 60,000. The cost: $350.00. So, my question is: Is it necessary to replace the timing belt at 60K miles and is this really a "belt" or is it instead a chain that does not need to be replaced? If it is necessary, is $350.00 a fair price?
I have a 99 TLC same as your 98, the operators manual states timimg belt replacement at 90k; Tell your local dealer you'll wait until you hit 100k. However, the 100 series uses timing belt not chains.
I just bought a 99TLC and I'm happy with everything except one thing.... The dealer only had one key and a second key is going to cost me $250.00. Does anybody out there have a less expensive option for me? The dealer says I have one option. Help, the last thing I want to spend $ on is a key. Also is any one trailer hitch better than another? How does the '99's do towing +/-3500lbs, it should be no problem.
I recently had 2 new keys made on my 98TLC (each key has a transponder just like the 99s). From the dealer the keys cost $48.00 and it was $48.00 to program each of them.
Now, I would have avoided the dealer cost but I needed a ECM ignition module. My wife was carjacked and she happened to have the only two keys with her at the time. The dealer threw in the cost of the ECM ($1200 was his quote) so long as I bought 2 keys and had the dealer program them.
(BTW, replacing all of the locks on the TLC is very easy: I did that myself.)
OK, now to your question. www.keylessride will sometimes have additional keys in stock; you just have to catch them at the right time. I located a locksmith in CA who for $34.00 will cut you a new key and send you programming instructions (its a series of pressing the gas/brake pedal after inserting the key into the ignition; very simple and interesting how transponder keys are programmed).
"secure.ksinc.net" has a template for programming the toyota transponders online, but it is a little confusing. Type in "programming toyota transponder key" on a google search to find "Template" four or five websites down the list.
This wasn't an option for me as didn't have any keys, but if I had 1 key that worked a local locksmith can cut the transponder blank. Again, what you need is the instructions for programming, which would come with the transponder blank.
I took my 97 LC to the Toyota dealer to replace the windshield washer pump. They hooked it up incorrectly and now the rear wash does not work, which they will be fixing soon. However, while I was there I asked them to price a couple of other annoying problems. 1) The antenna does not ascend or descend anymore. 2) The backlight in the frequency display is no longer working. I suspect it to be a loose wire because for the last couple of years I would give the side of the radio a good thump and the light would turn back on for a few weeks. Anyway, the dealer told me that it would cost over $600 to replace the antenna, because the fender needs to be removed for this operation to be completed. Next, they told me that the light in the radio frequency display was not repairable and that I would have to have to replace the whole radio. This is the first time I have been to this dealer (Toyota of Richardson in Texas) and my question is "are these people for real?" I will be shopping around but can anyone give me some advice on a low cost alternative? Also, has anyone installed an on-board computer in their LC? Any advice there?
Do this test for me. In a parking lot, turn the wheels all the way and accelerate more briskly than you normally would at this sharp angle (as though you're trying to defend a parking slot in a busy mall - heh.) No need to floor it all the way, but you want to maneuver hard. If you floor it, the engine noise may mask what I want you to hear.
If you hear a clicking noise when doing this in either direction, I want to know about it. This would be the CV (actually a birfield joint on the 80 series). They're correct that merely checking this joint is a lot of time and money.
You never got back to me on whether you could hear it in low range or not? Also, how handy are you? If you are reasonably so, and can hear it in low range then there's an excellent test for the front shaft. You will need to crawl under the truck and remove 8 bolts - 4 at each end of the driveshaft. Put chalk marks on the flanges and shaft flanges before pulling it out and taking it for a drive. Noise still there? It's not your front driveshaft. The reason you can do this in low range is that the center diff is locked and you're basically driving with the rear axle only without the front shaft (if you have a diff lock switch to the right of the steering wheel next to the antenna switch, this should be locked. I think your year does NOT have this and auto locks in low range. If it does have it, lock it for this shaft-less experiment). It will take you no more than an hour to do this with hand tools.
Having said all that, here's a primer on what I think is happening with your front axle. Looking under your front end from the front bumper, the front axle housing terminates at each end in spherical steel structure. In this sphere (STEERING KNUCKLE) are your birfield joints. The sphere is supposed to be full of thick grease. The axle housing (including diff) is supposed to be full of thin gear oil. Right as the axle housing flares into that sphere there is a seal through which the actual axle shaft pierces. The seal (AXLE SEAL) keeps the two types of fluids (thick grease/thin oil) apart. Another seal (STEERING KNUCKLE SEAL) keeps the thick grease from leaking out of the sphere onto the outside of the spherical surface you can see. It is normal for there to be some weeping here, and these seals slide directly against the outside of the sphere, leaving "edges" of thick grease built up at the limits of the wheel's turning ability. Normal.
Over time, the AXLE seal wears and allows the thin grease into the steering knuckle. Here, it thins the grease out, and the grease runs out of the steering knuckle through the STEERING KNUCKLE SEALS, and also sometimes even onto the wheels via the drive plates. After awhile, the differential oil is low, and the steering knuckle is low - endangering both expensive components.
Here is where things typically go horribly awry on a LandCruiser - owing to its uniqueness and the typical ignorance of many mechanics on these somewhat rare aspects.
The lowest form of this mechanic ignorance takes this form: On the upper forward part of the steering knuckle is a square plug. This plug is only to be used to CHECK the grease level in the steering knuckle. But mechanics think this is to FILL the knuckle. It should only be used as an indicator of the grease level since the last disassembly and repack. Not for adding. Putting grease in here does not get it to the actual birfield joint - which is the place where it needs to be. So, many mechanics simply stuff grease in here and send the LandCruiser owner on his merry way thinking he's properly serviced the knuckle/joint. Unfortunately, the birfield resides in a separate chamber inside of the steering knuckle and it's still devoid of grease no matter how much you jam in that plug hole. This is the lowest form of maintenance and the cheapest.
The second form of error costs a lot of money. The mechanic properly strips down the steering knuckle and repacks the birfield/steering knuckle by pulling the axle partway (but not all the way) out. Pulling it all the way out is simply a matter of pulling it another 3 feet and laying it on the bench, BTW. Upon reassembly, they replace the seals that seem to be allowing the grease to run out of the sphere where you can see it built up as mentioned earlier. They think this seal is the problem, after all (its actually a triple seal of rubber, felt and steel designed to contain thick grease, NOT thin oil) as that's where the leak is. Honest mistake, but it's the AXLE SEAL that is causing the grease to thin and leak. The axle is reassembled, the customer pays the bill (usually around $600 per side) and they drive off with that aforementioned axle seal not replaced. Anywhere from a month to 6 months later, the continued contamination of thin gear oil causes the thinned grease/oil mix to run out that new fancy triple seal again and causes a mess and lack of lube AGAIN. Sound familiar?
So, what needs to be done is a PROPER axle service that will again last 60,000 miles before the axle seal starts to wear and leak. I doubt your birfield is toast, but will wait to hear about the "click" test to help you make a judgement. If your front diff has not been allowed to get low, the birfield is still running in oil and that's completely OK.
Back to your front shaft. There are no less than THREE grease fittings on it and most mechanics are used to zero, or one. So, it may be that you simply need someone to grease the three zirc fittings. The more I think about it, this should be done before anything else and takes someone with a grease gun about 3 minutes if they take the time to properly wipe off each fitting before filling it with grease.
i've noticed a slight clicking when i turn my wheels all the way to the left only and accelerate. it only seems to click 1 or 2 times and not when i turn my wheels all the way to the right.
what does that mean? i should check the differential fluid levels? should i be concerned about anything else? should i have the axle seal replaced? the birfield /steering knuckle repacked?
The left ones tend to go first as the axle is longer on that side and it wears out the axle seal faster. Thus, more leakage via the left and its birfield loses grease faster.
If it's only clicking at very sharp higher throttle settings, no big deal. As for what you should do, if you read my War And Peace length post above, you'd realize the front diff fluid level would not be something to check for birfield noise. You should have the birfield/steering knuckle repacked, with new axle seal, triple steering knuckle seal, and new upper and lower steering knuckle bearings (small cost to do once open and generally need them commensurate with birf repack). Be sure they replace the inner axle seal as described above, which most mechanics skip. Be sure they put grease in the axle splines where they mate with the drive plate - another common error (you can see if grease is present simply by pulling off the grease cap).
Thanks for that very detailed analysis. It sure looks like a good and experienced mechanic is needed for all those seals and packing on the front axel. As I said before, after I had initial leakage on those front hemispheres it took three goes for the Toyota Dealership to fix the problem. I would wager that they didnt change all the seals so thats why the leakage continued. I have to hope they did finally change the Axel Seal and that there wasnt any damage as a result of the variuos "air shots" they had - which was about 20-30,000 miles ago. I cant find the old bill to see whether we got charged for an Axel Seal in addition to the two Stearing Knuckle Seals.
Before the packing problem we did indeed have that clicking problem when in motion on a hard turn - and the sound did finally go away after the eventual "fix". The car is not here right now but I will double check the clicking situation again - but I dont think its anything like as bad as when we first had the "clicking".
Once again thanks so much. I hope this will help sort out the problem.
Don't worry about damage since I'm sure it was correctly repacked with grease. Just that it started leaking out fairly soon. Typically, it can run 30,000 miles that way - provided the front diff does not get empty (it's feeding oil constantly to the birfield due to the worn axle seal). No worries - beefy stuff in there.
Any luck with the grinding noise I think is the front driveshaft CV joint?
The noise hasnt appeared again for a week now. I wish there was a noise so that I could pinpoint the problem. The "low range " test I dont understand fully - and I am not really up to that kind of snuff. You want something removed and then taken it for a drive??!! My worry is that I have an 800 hundred mile trip to make in 2 weeks to pick up a college kid and all his stuff. All I need is for a mis-hap on a journey like that.
I am looking at a 2000 LC with 63000 miles, for around $27000, is this to much? Any other make and the mileage would be a huge turn-off, is this still to much for this vehicle? What do I need to look closely at.
Sounds like a pretty good price. Depends on condition of course, but I've seen 98s advertised for that much and more. Of course that doesn't mean that someone's actually paying the asking price, but it's a bit of a guage. My seat of the pants ranges, judging from prices in the LA Times are about 24-30ish for 98s, 26-33 for 99s and mid to high 30s for 2000s, nearly 38 or so to low 40s for 01s. Haven't seen an 02s yet. That price for a 2000 almost seems a little too low. Does it have all service records?
Comments
But I would still like to know if anybody knows when the 2004 TLC & LX470 models will go on sale. Does anybody remember what month in 2002 that the 2003 models went on sale? Do the TLC and the LX470 go on sale at the same time?
Thanks again.
1991
1998
2005
The current 100 models were designed in a different era. 2005 will have some big changes so the factory will need to retool. More HP is coming. The 2004's will come around October and will be the same as the 2003's.
HiC
Miles?
Ownership/use history?
Maintenance history?
Problem started suddenly, or over time?
Idle problem when cold, warm, etc?
IdahoDoug
I purchased the vehicle in Jan. '03 with 82K miles. I noticed the vibration immediately. It is not a really pronounced vibration. Above and below the listed rpm range the vehicle is really smooth. The transfer case shift lever seems to really vibrate on acceleration.
The idle seems to be a little rough at all times.
Since I bought it, I have had all fluids changed and new spark plugs. Do you think higher octance fuel would help, maybe some sort of fuel additive.
The service tech suggested new spark plug wires, rotor, etc.
THANKS
-Check that the thick rubber engine intake tube is not cracked on the bottom (often happens when techs yank on them too hard to change the air filter).
-If it has not had a new rotor since new, replace it.
-Clean the throttle valve edges and seat.
The 1800 rpm roughness is kind of a puzzler, but is most likely fuel related - injectors, I'd guess. Get two bottles of Techron Concentrate (not the regular bottle) for about $10 at most auto parts stores and use as directed for two consecutive tankfuls. Use it when you're driving the truck for typical errand running as it's more effective this way than on a long freeway trip. If you get an improvement (I suspect you will), then go for a third bottle - the previous owner was using some pretty low grade fuel and the injector tips have some deposits on them. If you cannot get full satisfaction after this, find a shop that can do a "hot flush" of the injection system. This consists of running a harsh solvent through the injectors while the car is running and is quite effective in fully cleaning them if that was the issue.
Replacing the plug wires is kind of a rough thing to do since the mechanic can easily test them for proper resistance (figure is in the shop manual) and they're very expensive as a shot in the dark (over $150).
Does it have this roughness when you rev it to 1800 in Park? Does your engine rev to 1800-2000 when started after sitting overnight?
IdahoDoug
Good luck.
You're wise to lube the window tracks, as for some reason the 80 power windows are kinda slow and seem underpowered. In fact, a few in my club have experienced issues with power mechanisms in the door coming off the track, etc. Some of these are used quite heavily offroad, but still worth noting.
At any rate, I sprayed white lithium grease into the vertical tracks of all four doors. Get a can of it and use it liberally, then wipe off the excess. This product will not attack the rubber holding the felt seals as some lubes will, and it will last longer than, say, a silicone spray. Yes, there will be a bit on the window near the track, but after you've washed the windows once or twice it will only be deep in the seals where the friction occurs against the glass.
The real cure to these slow windows is to open up the doors and clean out the gear drive mechanism, then lube them and the internal parts. The factory grease hardens with age and produces too much internal friction - especially when its cold out. I saw only a slight speed improvement, but also got a drop in wind noise as an immediate side benefit.
If your squeak is inside the door (not the windows sliding on the dry seals), then it might be worth an afternoon's work to open the doors if your hubbie is handy at this sort of thing. Then, I'd recommend a synthetic grease so you won't have to open them again before the 80 finally wears out at around 600,000 miles....
IdahoDoug
In addition, I have recently determined that the "Power" button that activitates the higher transmission shift point to extend low-end acceleration does not activate that function. When the button is released, the light on the dash goes out with no change in shift point occurring. My concern is that this may indicate a transmission problem or just a problem with the switch controlling the function.
Has anyone else experienced these problems & can you give me input on corrective action.
Thanks,
John G
No clue on the power switch, but my guess would be a defective switch since it will activate the light until you let go.
IdahoDoug
You are really a busy guy on this site. We all appreciate your expertise and help.
I checked my truck in Park at 1800-2100 rpm's, no vibration noted. Also checked the cold idle, approx. 1200 rpm's.
Like I said, this vibration is subtle. My son drove it yesterday, and he said that he could feel the same vibration, especially going up a hill.
Thanks again.
Does this make sense anyone?
If you can't discern a vibration in Park, then it's clearly something caused by load or the moving drivetrain. I'm assuming all the fluids (center diff, front diff, rear diff, tranny) are topped up and the drive shaft CV joints have been properly lubed. If so, the most likely culprit is the front driveshaft has been taken off and improperly replaced. Most drive shafts are assembled with the "ears" in phase - meaning the ears on the front joint line up with the rear joint. Very unusual, but the front shaft on the 80 is supposed to be assembled with the ears 90 degrees to each other. A mechanic unaware of this Cruiser lore would naturally put it together wrong. Lay under the truck and see if the heavy cast iron ears (look like massive two pronged fork) are correctly installed. If I didn't explain this enough, feel free to tell me.
Couple questions for you:
Once at the vibration speed, can you discern any difference by coasting, accelerating?
If you put the truck in low range, does it still have this same vibration at the same RPM? or does it change RPM, but remain at the same vehicle speed as it occured in high range?
With the hood up and someone experienced at the wheel, can you push on the gas and cause the engine to move quite a bit (this would indicate an engine mount worn out)?
Is the vibration felt in any part of the vehicle in particular - steering wheel, seat?
IdahoDoug
First, be sure the front diff oil is topped off. Second, is there any maintenance history on the front axle? The hubs need to be repacked approx every 60k. This repack puts fresh grease in the area where the birfield joint (stronger version of a CV joint) resides.
Personally, I don't think you have an issue with the joint if the vehicle's been even casually maintained with that low mileage. I'd be more apt to suspect a brake issue (gravel in the caliper, brake shoe worn to metal, etc) than the running gear.
When does the sound appear? When does it disappear? How long have you had this vehicle and what do you know about its history?
IdahoDoug
IdahoDoug
Another question, I am looking at a 99 LC with a rebuilt title. I have been told the accident was minor, just drivers side fender and spindle damage. Anyone with experience as to why an insurance company would write a vehicle off with so little damage. 1999 leased vehicle damaged in 2000, with about 25000 miles.
Thanks for the help.
For instance, a vehicle with 30% or more of its value spent in repair might be correctly classified as a "salvage title" in state A. Knowing that state B would let it be titled as a mere "accident repair", they'll sell it to themselves in that state. Then, they can ship it to your state and still call it that lower level and hope nobody demands details. Common.
Ask for written copies of the repair paperwork and usually this is the last you'll ever hear from them. Anybody who's selling an encumbered title like this and claims they don't have this paperwork is either an idiot, or they're lying because they don't want you to see that the car was basically sawed in half and welded together with the front end of another salvage car whose opposite end was damaged.
Personally, I feel the money "saved" in getting one of these badly damaged vehicles is often spent with much grief later when mysterious problems pop up that nobody can diagnose because the wiring system was spliced by some guy named Vinny while trying to get the car out the door so another salvage project can be started. I've personally seen them for sale with no bulbs in the airbag lights because the "repair" place couldn't figure out what to do with the blown airbags and the warning lights on the dash. These places operate at the fringes of the auto industry and are something to be wary of.
IdahoDoug
Don
Also, is it true that you can take your TLC to the Lexus shop for service (warranty and non-warranty)? My dealer sucks big-time and I'd love to bypass them.
My concern, after reading several posts, is: am I making a mistake selling this vehicle and purchasing a 2001-2003 Landcrusier? Many say the 1997 is the last year of the "real" Landcruiser.
I do not go off-road and put an equal amount of city and highway miles on vehicles. I "think" I want the V8 as I love the way my wife's Lexus LS 400 performs. I actually like the way the 1997 looks more than the 1998-2003 version.
Should I also look at the new Lexus GX (the LX 470 is too much $$)? (The new 4Runner's square wheel wells are a turn-off to me so I would not consider them)
Also, for those of you that have them, is a used 2001-2002 LX 470 worth the premium over the same year Landcruiser?
Thanks in advance!
My 99 Cruiser with 65k miles has developed a noticeable thump in All Wheel Drive. It thumps when accelerating from a complete stop, say at a light. And when I disengage the All Wheel Drive then re-engage it, there is a VERY noticeable thump. It was not there a week ago.
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance ~ gmo
Don
The 80 series LandCruiser is regarded by many as the last of a legend in terms of offroad prowess. However, if this means nothing to you then it makes no sense to have the tradeoffs of rougher ride and less performance of this model in favor of the newer model. The newer model is no slouch in terms of ruggedness or durability, but it definitely is a far better road machine.
Alpinerose - Your LandCruiser is full time 4WD, and cannot have this engaged and disengaged. Perhaps you could try again on the problem/symptoms? Thanks. Also, if all four of your tires are not the same diameter then you can feel a bit of a thump upon startup. Have they been regularly rotated and replaced in sets of 4?
IdahoDoug
I did indeed have a grease packing issue a few miles back, around 70/80,000 as I recall in fact the dealer took three attempts to get it right as I kept getting grease leaks all over he hubs and breaks. Thats the main reason I dont use a Toyota dealer anymore - Toyota City didn't seem capable of fixing their own products. My mechanic reckons its not breaks and they told me they checked all the fluids.
When this noise appears (and it comes and goes) and I shift to neutral the noise does not go away so although I am no expert it would appear not to be transmission but either axle or differential - the noise is up front somewhere. My mechanic said that the grease packing was OK. He also said that to check the diff would require a lot of manhours just to take a look.
However, the 100 series uses timing belt not chains.
bryan: towing 3500 lbs should not be a problem. The 4.7 is a torquey engine. Just keep it out of overdrive and check your trailer brakes.
HiC
Now, I would have avoided the dealer cost but I needed a ECM ignition module. My wife was carjacked and she happened to have the only two keys with her at the time. The dealer threw in the cost of the ECM ($1200 was his quote) so long as I bought 2 keys and had the dealer program them.
(BTW, replacing all of the locks on the TLC is very easy: I did that myself.)
OK, now to your question. www.keylessride will sometimes have additional keys in stock; you just have to catch them at the right time. I located a locksmith in CA who for $34.00 will cut you a new key and send you programming instructions (its a series of pressing the gas/brake pedal after inserting the key into the ignition; very simple and interesting how transponder keys are programmed).
"secure.ksinc.net" has a template for programming the toyota transponders online, but it is a little confusing. Type in "programming toyota transponder key" on a google search to find "Template" four or five websites down the list.
This wasn't an option for me as didn't have any keys, but if I had 1 key that worked a local locksmith can cut the transponder blank. Again, what you need is the instructions for programming, which would come with the transponder blank.
Thanks.
Grrrr! in Dallas
I wouldn't expect the dealership to take apart the radio. No ideas there.
If you hear a clicking noise when doing this in either direction, I want to know about it. This would be the CV (actually a birfield joint on the 80 series). They're correct that merely checking this joint is a lot of time and money.
You never got back to me on whether you could hear it in low range or not? Also, how handy are you? If you are reasonably so, and can hear it in low range then there's an excellent test for the front shaft. You will need to crawl under the truck and remove 8 bolts - 4 at each end of the driveshaft. Put chalk marks on the flanges and shaft flanges before pulling it out and taking it for a drive. Noise still there? It's not your front driveshaft. The reason you can do this in low range is that the center diff is locked and you're basically driving with the rear axle only without the front shaft (if you have a diff lock switch to the right of the steering wheel next to the antenna switch, this should be locked. I think your year does NOT have this and auto locks in low range. If it does have it, lock it for this shaft-less experiment). It will take you no more than an hour to do this with hand tools.
Having said all that, here's a primer on what I think is happening with your front axle. Looking under your front end from the front bumper, the front axle housing terminates at each end in spherical steel structure. In this sphere (STEERING KNUCKLE) are your birfield joints. The sphere is supposed to be full of thick grease. The axle housing (including diff) is supposed to be full of thin gear oil. Right as the axle housing flares into that sphere there is a seal through which the actual axle shaft pierces. The seal (AXLE SEAL) keeps the two types of fluids (thick grease/thin oil) apart. Another seal (STEERING KNUCKLE SEAL) keeps the thick grease from leaking out of the sphere onto the outside of the spherical surface you can see. It is normal for there to be some weeping here, and these seals slide directly against the outside of the sphere, leaving "edges" of thick grease built up at the limits of the wheel's turning ability. Normal.
Over time, the AXLE seal wears and allows the thin grease into the steering knuckle. Here, it thins the grease out, and the grease runs out of the steering knuckle through the STEERING KNUCKLE SEALS, and also sometimes even onto the wheels via the drive plates. After awhile, the differential oil is low, and the steering knuckle is low - endangering both expensive components.
Here is where things typically go horribly awry on a LandCruiser - owing to its uniqueness and the typical ignorance of many mechanics on these somewhat rare aspects.
The lowest form of this mechanic ignorance takes this form: On the upper forward part of the steering knuckle is a square plug. This plug is only to be used to CHECK the grease level in the steering knuckle. But mechanics think this is to FILL the knuckle. It should only be used as an indicator of the grease level since the last disassembly and repack. Not for adding. Putting grease in here does not get it to the actual birfield joint - which is the place where it needs to be. So, many mechanics simply stuff grease in here and send the LandCruiser owner on his merry way thinking he's properly serviced the knuckle/joint. Unfortunately, the birfield resides in a separate chamber inside of the steering knuckle and it's still devoid of grease no matter how much you jam in that plug hole. This is the lowest form of maintenance and the cheapest.
The second form of error costs a lot of money. The mechanic properly strips down the steering knuckle and repacks the birfield/steering knuckle by pulling the axle partway (but not all the way) out. Pulling it all the way out is simply a matter of pulling it another 3 feet and laying it on the bench, BTW. Upon reassembly, they replace the seals that seem to be allowing the grease to run out of the sphere where you can see it built up as mentioned earlier. They think this seal is the problem, after all (its actually a triple seal of rubber, felt and steel designed to contain thick grease, NOT thin oil) as that's where the leak is. Honest mistake, but it's the AXLE SEAL that is causing the grease to thin and leak. The axle is reassembled, the customer pays the bill (usually around $600 per side) and they drive off with that aforementioned axle seal not replaced. Anywhere from a month to 6 months later, the continued contamination of thin gear oil causes the thinned grease/oil mix to run out that new fancy triple seal again and causes a mess and lack of lube AGAIN. Sound familiar?
So, what needs to be done is a PROPER axle service that will again last 60,000 miles before the axle seal starts to wear and leak. I doubt your birfield is toast, but will wait to hear about the "click" test to help you make a judgement. If your front diff has not been allowed to get low, the birfield is still running in oil and that's completely OK.
Back to your front shaft. There are no less than THREE grease fittings on it and most mechanics are used to zero, or one. So, it may be that you simply need someone to grease the three zirc fittings. The more I think about it, this should be done before anything else and takes someone with a grease gun about 3 minutes if they take the time to properly wipe off each fitting before filling it with grease.
IdahoDoug
i've noticed a slight clicking when i turn my wheels all the way to the left only and accelerate. it only seems to click 1 or 2 times and not when i turn my wheels all the way to the right.
what does that mean? i should check the differential fluid levels? should i be concerned about anything else? should i have the axle seal replaced? the birfield /steering knuckle repacked?
thanks for your advice.
If it's only clicking at very sharp higher throttle settings, no big deal. As for what you should do, if you read my War And Peace length post above, you'd realize the front diff fluid level would not be something to check for birfield noise. You should have the birfield/steering knuckle repacked, with new axle seal, triple steering knuckle seal, and new upper and lower steering knuckle bearings (small cost to do once open and generally need them commensurate with birf repack). Be sure they replace the inner axle seal as described above, which most mechanics skip. Be sure they put grease in the axle splines where they mate with the drive plate - another common error (you can see if grease is present simply by pulling off the grease cap).
IdahoDoug
Before the packing problem we did indeed have that clicking problem when in motion on a hard turn - and the sound did finally go away after the eventual "fix". The car is not here right now but I will double check the clicking situation again - but I dont think its anything like as bad as when we first had the "clicking".
Once again thanks so much. I hope this will help sort out the problem.
Any luck with the grinding noise I think is the front driveshaft CV joint?
IdahoDoug
My worry is that I have an 800 hundred mile trip to make in 2 weeks to pick up a college kid and all his stuff. All I need is for a mis-hap on a journey like that.
Thanks
HTH