Toyota Land Cruiser

idahodoug

I'd find an independent mechanic, or perhaps a friend who has a hand grease gun and knows how to use it. It would take all of 5 minutes to slide under the truck (no jacking needed with all the room under there) and grease the 3 fittings on the front driveshaft (2 on front, 1 on rear of shaft). Do that, and I think you're good to go, though if there's any doubt on the front diff fluid level, a long highway trip would be a good time to have it checked.

If it's intermittent, I don't think its a diff issue as they tend to get noisy and stay noisy if there's a problem. Ditto the birfield joints (CV) and related hub components. The 80 series is significantly overbuilt, so no worries about it letting you down. So, I think you just have a dry driveshaft joint, which can be intermittent noise before becoming constant. Don't go on that trip without doing this. If the person with the grease gun is good, they'll be able to tell you that the joint was dry (several pumps before anything comes out, etc). While they're under there, talk them into doing the 3 on the rear drive shaft as well, but tell them something important about the one on the front of the rear shaft (2 on rear, 1 on front). On the front fitting, tell them to stop as soon as the shaft begins to "telescope" (will lengthen from pressure of incoming grease). Immediately stop - usually only 6 pumps or so.

Don't worry about the low range test I'd suggested. I suspect the shaft greasing will eliminate the noise.

IdahoDoug

grantchstr

I tried the low range without the mechanical removal! Only used the low range once when going surf fishing along a beach . Never used it before on the road - the car wouldnt go faster than 20 mph in low (which I suppose is the idea of low range!) but there was no front axel noise. There was a lot of sort of "many gear wheels turning fast noise" from the rear - from the rear diff I guess. Suppose this is normal.

joeeblow1

Be careful about running on dry pavement with the center diff locked, especially in low range. Avoid making tight turns.

jgravel

I have a 2000 LC with 65K, bought new. I think it's better now than when I bought it. The only thing that bugs me is a slight tranny whine at high speeds, but this bd has told me it's nothing to worry about. My radio usually drowns it out anyway.

I wouldn't sell mine for $27K. I would figue $33-35K, and I still wouldn't sell it.

see ya,

-Jay

steelcruiser

I wouldn't sell my 2002 either. Still haunted by selling my '94 80. Regarding prices...here in the LA area of CA there are lots of LCs and I think the prices might be more competitive for both new and used. Also, many just lease them (I'm sure), without realizing the extreme build quality, capabilities or heritage of the LC, because they're "in". So I think that the people that do lease may be inclined to just get out from under their contractual obligation at termination and aren't that worried about the "used" price? Since I by my cars outright, guess I'm a bit more sensitive to prices for both new and used

Historically, I think that LCs really hold their value well. Ever check out the steep price declines of RRs? Ouch!

As to the noise you have......wish I could have a little noise in mine. I miss the sounds of mechanical drivetrain "things" whirring that you can hear in an 80, but not in a 100.

rleong

A few months ago, I bought my 2000 LC with 13,000 miles for $33,500. 1 owner, great overall condition, except someone smoked in the car. I was the first person to look at car and bought the car on the spot. I knew the next person will buy it.

$27k with 63k doesn't sound bad for a 2000 LC. It's always a good idea to bring a buddy along to check out the LC. You can always find a better deal later on , but I don't know if wait that long. It took me 5 to 6 year to find my LC.

Good Luck

trout14

The price after minimal negotiation is down to $26000. I think I saw the trade in was for $23000. I am still skeptical about the mileage, that still sounds like a lot. The wife doesn't even want to look at it due to the mileage. Checking on an extended warranty as well. No service records yet, will call when I have a couple spare minutes. Thanks for the input.

steelcruiser

car was bought. A 2000, in practical terms, is 4 model years old. So 60K+ miles is about 15K a year, which is about average.

warmsoda

My wife has 49000 on her 2000. It runs better now than new - still no brake job yet either. When the car was new the engine was full of noise but now you cant tell that its running. The only thing she has done is oil changes.

bryan28

I searched this post out and it sounds like my problem too but I dont see any responce. I have a 99 TLC 57k miles. My clunk feels like it's in the rear end and only at start from a dead stop and not all the time. I can see the high/low shifter move with the noise too. I would say it only happens 1/3 of the time. I havent tried the 2nd start to see if it stops. Any ideas out there? Below it the post I found...

My original message: "Over the last couple of months, my 2000 LC has been making a thumping or clunking sound when accelerating from a dead stop. It doesn't happen all the time; I'd say about 1/3 to 1/2 the time. As far as I can tell, it comes from underneath the driver's seat, prompting me initially to think there was something loose under the seat. However, when I have the "2nd start" function engaged, the noise never happens, prompting me to think it has something to do with the transmission. Also, after I had my 10K service done (grease and oil and rotate tires), the volume and frequency of the noise went down, but did not disappear altogether. Does anyone have any thoughts as to what the problem might be or how to fix it."

bryan28

I found a reply to a rear end clunk and I lubed up my rear drive shaft just to the point of telescoping and BINGO clunk is gone at start up and what I thought was the brakes making a noise at the point of complete stop was the drive shaft too, it feels like a new truck! Thanks, this board is great.

grantchstr

Question on the drive shaft greasing, my handbook only shows grease fittings for propellor shafts and steering knuckles. I crawled under the front and couldnt locate any on the drive shafts. Looks like a ramp may be necessary for access?
Also thnks to joeblow1 about the dry pavement tip - well taken.

joeeblow1

My 80 is at home right now, but IIRC the zerk fittings on the driveshaft are at the u-joints. There may be one near the telescoping joint itself, too. Be careful about overgreasing the driveshaft as it will induce vibrations and make your transfer case unhappy. Just a couple of squirts. That reminds me I need to grease the drivetrain.

Clunks are induced by the full-time drivetrain reconciling the slop of 3 differentials.

idahodoug

The manual may call the f/r driveshafts "propeller shafts" but they're referring to the same thing I am. You have 3 on each - 2 on the u-joint and 1 on the other end of the shaft. It may take some moving of the vehicle to get them all pointing downward toward the garage floor, but they're all there. Interestingly, if you find that you can get two pointing down, but the other is pointing up it indicates your driveshaft has been removed for some reason. I can't see any need for a ramp. What I do is lube them on my level garage floor with chunks of wood a few feet in front of and a few feet behind the tires so I can twist the shaft and move the truck back and forth until I have all fittings pointed down for access.

Ignore the steering knuckle grease fitting reference - it's actually a square plug and putting grease in there does nothing whatsoever. Many debates have raged as to the reason this square plug exists.

Bryan, you may also notice a much more supple ride as the dry shaft does not allow the suspension to telescope it easily - creating some rough movements on harsh bumps.

IdahoDoug

bryan28

the ride does feel better. I used your instructions regarding how much grease to apply (stop when the shaft begins to telescope) it took 9 or 10 shots. I thought I felt the clunk a little bit late in the day, I wonder if the grease worked its way through the inside and there is a little room for more... What do you think? Thanks again for the help. Bryan

idahodoug

I've had 3 80 series over the years (will keep this one forever, which I know is a very looong time....) and they all have a bit of this from a dead stop. As mentioned by Joe, this is a characteristic of 3 diffs with minute amounts of slack piling up. However, I've noted that if the tires are allowed to wear at different rates (by not rotating regularly) or if they're at different pressures, the clunk rises above the threshold and becomes noticeable. Perhaps that is what has happened with yours. Another spot they can generate drivetrain slack is the front drive plates. For some reason, mechanics often do not put grease where the tips of the axle shafts pierce the drive plates, meshing splines on the shaft with splines on the plates. This dry condition causes premature wear/slack.

At any rate, if your truck has been even poorly maintained, a little slack does not indicate any impending problem at all. It just indicates, well - a little slack. Now, if it was maintained below poorly, PLUS driven hard offroad a lot then you may end up with, well - a lot of slack. The drivetrains on these things are quite stout and can readily take full on abuse.

Since it happens irregularly, it jibes well with my past experience with Cruisers, which would also only make the slight clunk now and again.

IdahoDoug

bryan28

I think it feels like a very minor clunk that you have had to feel it prior to greasing to even notice it now. No signs of off roading prior to my buying it so all is good. Thanks again for your advice, I'm going out today to test this baby in the dirt! Bryan

luckylou

Hi guys and dolls : After many months of reading this board and the expertise of so many of you. We finally indulge into purchasing a new Land Cruiser . We were able to take 5k of sticker price while getting the color we wanted Black Garnet Pearl with gray interior with a few options like the NAV , side air bags , 18" wheels , roof rack and running boards , drop hitch , etc. We got it right of the truck with only 5 miles on it. The next 1000 miles we will drive slow and easy to break it in correctly this vehicle will be part of the family for a very long time. It feels like we are riding on top of an elephant in comparison with my 1990 Accord . Rides tight hardly any noise inside , while waiting for the light to change about 10 Harlyes were rumbling next to us and was almost tomb quite , I guess . Thank you all for your help.
By the way I found an easy way to defeat those pesky DRL's open the hood look into front head light on passenger side the main head light has two bulbs the small one is the DRL go behind the casing where the bulb are and remove the connection separate the cables no tools to use there is a snap connection like male female plug . Remove one and both are disable . You can leave the bulb in the hole so it does not look empty and can use electrical tape to cover both ends.

steelcruiser

remove it. It's also your high beam

Congratualtions on your new LC

mikean

I have 99LC with the same clunking sound.
I have two questions.

1) Is Lithium grease No.2 what should be used?

2) Are there 3 grease fittings on the 100 series?

TIA,
Mike

cliffy1

Congrats! I still haven't seen that color. I'll bet its awesome.

luckylou

You are absolutely correct only one high beam works . We have not driven it at night but tonight we will , seldom I use the high beam unless to signal opposite drivers of their high beams when approaching us . The high beam that works is the driver's side perhaps I might not need both of them , also got a couple of fog lights I presume they don't shoot far . If I got to choose between DRL or HB , DRL's bites the dust . To be fair about the HB's I need to test them under different conditions . Of course there is " Plan B " which calls for the " wiring harness kit " , referred in lightsout.com .
 Would this HB (Plan A) operation affect anything else ??
 Cliffy , the color like you say is awesome and goes very
well with gray interior .
Thank you for all the advice and keep them coming they are all welcome and I will test the lights and keep you guys posted. Thanks again .

  Lou

steelcruiser

Don't really know about the re-wiring via harness kit you mention. I've replaced my bulbs with PIAA Super Whites, which are a nice improvement over the stock bulbs. Not quite HID, but nice none the less.

Performance Products offer them and you can wait for their sales, which they have throughout the year. BTW, I saw some 285/60/18 Pirelli Scorpian tires last week at America's Tire Company. Guess yours came with 275/60/18?

I've yet to see the color you have, but I pretty much like any color LC as long as it has grey interior. That oak interior is, well, oak

Are you going to take it to bed with you ))

luckylou

No , but I'm going to sleep in the garage.......
 We just took an hour drive thru some very dark and narrow roads to check the head lights . The low beams are more than plenty full and the single high beam on the driver's side does a very good job.
 What a great ride !!!!
 Why in the world we waited so long to get a Land Cruiser !!!!!!!
 The lights in the dashboard has a beautiful glow.
 Powerful A.C.
 The tires , P275 / 60 / R18 Brigestone Dualer .
 Where can I get Performance Products website or magazine subscription ?
 We already planning a vacation for next year ,maybe a drive thru the Blue Ridge Pwy. to D.C. or a trip to Maine via NYC even in winter time , with this rig we can go almost anywhere any season of the year.
 I feel like I am 16 again and want to drive all over .
  How about the Platinum Coverage is it good or bad idea ?
 I guess while under the 36/36000 warranty might not be able to replace the bulbs with Super White plus after buying the LC the funds are diminish for a long while .
 Thanks again.

steelcruiser

Check out http://www.performanceproducts.com/

They have lots of Toyota stuff. I don't know about the bulb changing voiding your warranty. As to the platinum coverage I haven't had it on any of my LCs, but that doesn't mean it might not be a good idea. I'm sure others here on the list will share their thoughts on that.

And I don't blame you for sleeping in the garage. And you're right, once you've driven an LC, you wonder how you ever lived without one

luckylou

I just subscribe to the Performance magazine. If you have some spare time tell about those SW bulbs are they lookers , do they illuminate farthest ,would the dealer install them , are they pricey ??
 Thank you .
  Lou

bryan28

The type of grease is a good question, I used a lithium based grease for heavy duty applications including u joints etc vs. the lighter duty stuff, it could make a difference IdahoDoug should know. I don't have a good picture in my mind on the inside of the shaft and where the grease is going. The rear shaft has two fittings in the front, (one at the ujoint and one at the shaft end itself) and one at the aft ujoint totaling three, the front shaft is the same.

Has anybody out there used a paintless dent removal service? I dented the top of my roof between the sunroof and the windshield about a 2" dia by 1/4" deep... I'm still hot about that one, I knocked something out of the rafters! Stupid! Do these services work?

pamgreen

Hi! I'm looking for a way to increase the leg room on the front passenger side of my 99 LC. My husband's tall and his knees come right up against the dash, which really makes him question whether or not we should have spent the money to buy this vehicle. I'm thinking that there must be a way to put the seat on a longer track? We'd like to be able to move it back halfway into the second row! Thanks for any suggestions!

steelcruiser

Lou. They are better, significantly, than the stock bulbs, but not as bright as the HIDs. Price is about $70/pair as I recall.

Installation is easy--directions are in the owner's manual. Driver's side is "harder" than passenger side because you have to take out the windshield washer reservoir. The bulbs twist out and twist back in. There are notches on each side of the bulb that correspond to notches in the head light receptacle. Similar to changing a fluorescent bulb. The connecters "pinch" off. If you do get these bulbs, MAKE SURE YOU DON'T TOUCH THE BARE BULB PORTION OF THE BULB ASSEMBLY WITH YOUR bare hands. The oil from you skin can cause them to burn out prematurely. Touch the plastic base part only!

HTH

steve_b53

Hi all, (first post for me)
I own a 1999 landcruiser and absolutly love this suv. What I would like to do, is raise the front end to give it a more level stance and better approach angle. I found a kit on a web site about 6 months ago. It showed a before and after photo of a white, series 100 landcruiser. I have made numerous attempts to relocate the site but to no avail. I am pretty sure this kit was for the independent suspension, because it came with two coil springs for the rear and used other components for the front. I have done numerous searches on the web for ANYONE who makes one, but always come up empty. I have found kits for the the 100 series with a straight front axcle and find it hard to beleive that no one makes a lift or leveling kit for the 100 series with independent front suspension.
Any info on this subject would be great!

Thanks in advance

            Steve B

steelcruiser

Steve. AFAIK the only "kits" offered for this are rear springs from Old Man Emu, which is an Australian company that makes and distributes off road components for Landcruisers and other vehicles. Man-A-Fre carries these components. I have the springs and OME shocks installed on my ’02 LC, and had OME components on my 80 series LC as well. I also have 285/75 tires. My height is about 2+ inches above stock. And I like the firmer ride.

There are two different spring rates available--medium load and heavy load. I’ve gone with the medium springs as you really need to have your cruiser loaded with a lot of stuff all of the time to justify the heavier ones. In answer to your question about front height adjustment, twisting the torsion bars does this. With the OME set up for the 100 series LC you’ll get about 1.5 to 2” of lift. There is some “controversy” about how much you can crank up the front bars. There are also larger tbars available, but there’s not a consensus that I’m aware of on using them v. stock tbars. Anyway, an adjustment of about .5” on the front bars seems to be very acceptable. The issue of raising it more relates to increasing the angle of the CV joints due to the increased ride height. More than the 1/2 inch seems to be potentially problematic for the CV joints. Also, thicker bars may limit “articulation” .

I think the picture of the white LC you’re thinking of is from Slee Off Road. Christo Slee is a Cruiserhead that makes components he has designed and he also sells OME and other goodies.

HTH

hicaira

For a professional opinion, ask these guys: http://www.acme-outfitters.com/ This link may work better: http://www.acme-outfitters.com/intro.html

The 100 has a torsion bar front suspension and can be adjusted =/- about an inch without any real problems, and it does not require the purchase of any parts. If you adjust up, keep in mind the following:

1. When you load up the car with gear or drop any weight on the hitch, you will end up with the front too high. Off-road visibility immediately in front of the car will be impaired.

2. You may have to re-aim your headlights, which cannot be done by the DIY-er (unless you happen to have a repair manual and the proper tools).

HiC

scifi

Would those be the PIAA Xtreme White Plus Bulbs?

mobiweld

www.sleeoffroad.com

steelcruiser

The Xtreme Whites weren't available when I switched my stock bulbs out. I've got the Super Whites. FWIW, I just got a Perf Prod catalog today and they have a Kelvin scale graphic indicting sunlight at 5250 K, HIDs at 4300K, Xtreme Whites at 4150K and the Super Whites at 3800K.

Cost=$79.95/pr for Xtremes and $68.95 for the Super Whites.

HiC. I twisted mine about a half inch. With the bigger tires, this is just about right. F/R height difference is about 1 1/2 higher in the rear than in the front on mine.

idahodoug

I don't know the 100 series very well, so can't help on the # grease fittings on its driveshafts. Easy to tell, though - slide under there with a flashlight!

Ditto the type of grease it calls for. Might be in the owner's manual in your glovebox, otherwise you'll need a factory manual set (approx $120) to do these tasks yourself. You'll save that with just a few such tasks.

I use Mobil 1 red synthetic grease on the driveshafts. Versus traditional black grease, it's pretty cool to watch the old grease (black no matter what color it went in) come out, followed by a burst of red when you've refreshed the bearings. For the truly anal, I also have Amsoil purple grease in my steering knuckles and more red Mobil 1 in all four wheel bearings (OK, who didn't know that 80 series' have REAR wheel bearings that need repacking?...) :-)

IdahoDoug

katana2

Congratulations Luckylou !!! We almost bought a Cruiser but balked on the color. The dealer told us that the colors we wanted were not available in our area. I have seen the Garnet color excellent choice with the grey interior. I'm still holding out for the LX 470.

stever

Top 10 SUVs With the Best Residual Value for 2003

Steve, Host

steve_b53

Hi all,
  I just wanted to thank steelcruiser, hicaira, and mobiweld, for responding to my to my question
about lifting the front end of my cruiser. I will check into the info you all provided.

                  Thanks again

                    Steve B

bryan28

Has anybody had their drive light (the D only)go out on the dash? Could it be tied to the installation of a trailer hitch and break controller that I recently had done?

idahodoug

What year, what model?

IdahoDoug

bryan28

Sorry, 99 TLC

grantchstr

Well I had the mechanic double check grease on the propellor (drive) shafts and they had indeed been done - and the diff fluids were fine also. These guys (unlike the Toyota City dealer) do know what they are doing. The noise hasnt been apparent for a week or so now.

bryan28

how long should stock 99 TLC shocks last and what are good replacements for 95% on road 5% off no lift just stock, will be towing a 3k lb tent trailer... Thanks

idahodoug

If the noise comes back, have the shafts regreased by these guys with the request that they pay special attention to whether the grease is actually going in and properly coming out. Sometimes, a zirk fitting will clog and the grease isn't really going in, but squirting around the grease gun tip. It would be fairly unusual, but if the noise comes back the drive shaft joints (front or rear) would still be my favorite source, statistically.

IdahoDoug

grantchstr

Good point on blocked zirk, that might be it. I went under the car on the hoist and saw the grease back off of the nipple but of course its the other end somewhere that you need to look at. Thanks a ton.

george62

I have a 2000 LC all stock and 26K miles and am closing on a 4500 lb fishing boat. W/ trailer total in the neighborhood of 5000lbs gross. I expect a tongue weight of approx. 500-600 lbs. I will keep in a marina and trailer ~ 4 times a year.

My question is will the stock suspension maintain a level ride? Should I put in air shock (or other adjustable type shocks) so I can manually level the ride?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

jcee

I am very interested in the information you found in #2383. I have a 2001 LX470 with what sounds like the noise/vibrations symptoms your refer too. The dealer said this was normal operation, but I have seen so many postings on this noise/vibration issue that I am now sure this is not normal. Before I return to the dealer, I was hoping to arm myself with any available info. I could not find the page you mentioned on the NHTSA site. If you could let me know what the whole bulletin said or of any other ammo, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks

idahodoug

It won't maintain a level ride, but this is not too much for the vehicle, either. If you're just moving it to the marina at the beginning/end of the season and maybe another close trip I wouldn't do a thing save have the tires at their sidewall max for towing and the usual vehicle maintenance. Presumably you'll be picking good weather, and doing this during the day so you'll be further reducing any tow concerns.

I strongly urge you avoid air shocks. First, they will not likely make a model that conforms to the LC's shock damping characteristics. Most importantly however, air shocks put a lifting load on the shock mounts - something they're really not designed to handle. Springs lift, shocks dampen movement. If you must do something and insist on a level ride (I do, but I tow thousands of miles a year), order a set of Air Lift air springs. They fit inside your rear coils and put the force where it belongs - the spring seats. Easy to use, cheap and mine have lasted 90,000 miles without a hitch.

IdahoDoug

jcee

Just to clarify, I'm referring to a strong vibration/noise during low speed moderate acceleration and high speed light acceleration. I have seen references to HNL shifter buzzing, brake pedal vibration and transfer case vibration that all seem to refer to my symptoms. Thanks again for any links, suggestions or above all a solution.