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Mark
KEEP IN MIND I HAD SPARK,FUEL PRESSURE,INJECTOR PULSE PRIOR AND CRANKED FINE AND WOULD NOT START. ALSO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE AT LEAST 10 VOLTS MINIMUM WHILE CRANKING AS IT WILL NOT RUN WITHOUT.
PRIOR TO REPLACING THE PCM THE FUEL PUMP IN THE TANK AND THE CCRM MODULE ON THE RADIATOR SUPPORT WERE ALSO REPLACED AND HAD NO EFFECT. THE FACT THAT THE FUEL PUMP AND RADIATOR FAN NEVER SHUT OF WITH THE KEY IN THE RUN POSISTION WAS THE CLUE FOR ME AFTER REVIEWING THE WIRING DIAGRAM. HOPE THIS HELPS IN SOME WAY
Let me know if you find out anything else about this problem and I will let you know whether the gas lid fixes my problem.
When I get near the car and press the UNLOCK on the remote and it DOESN'T work that time, and I manually open the door, get in and then try to start the car - nothing happens until I try it about 3 to 4 times (no fuel pump sound, no lites, no cranking, not anything!). IF the remote unlocks the car, it works normally. One symptom is that NO LITES show on the instrument panel until that 3rd or 4th try. If the lites come on, then the car will start.
Another symptom, sometimes it tries to stutter and die while driving (rarely) and I haven't noticed whether the lites are on or not - NOT with 3 dozen cars behind me going 60 mph!!! I just try to get it started again as quickly as possible. That symptom may be related - don't know.
Checked the battery terminals. When I try to diagnose the problem, of course it won't fail right then. When its where I can't take a chance to just diagnose the problem, it seems to fail.
The leading symptom is the failure to UNLOCK with the remote. When that happens, then I am sure it is not going to start until I try it 3 or 4 times. Also, I never hear the fuel pumpt and absolutely NO LITES will come on until the next time that I start to try it (3 or 4) then the lites come on and it will crank and start.
I have the same car and the same problem. The mech told me the engine was shot but I don't believe him. I suspected the timing chain also until I realized it had a 'chain' and not a timing BELT.
If you find an answer please let me know!
Mine has plenty of gasoline pressure and all the spark plugs fire (I pulled each one and checked 'em). When I try to start it, it almost seems to want to start then it goes back to just a fast cranking.??? Putting oil in the cyls did not increase the compressions. I had NEVER had any problem starting this car before (have a great 'Optima' battery) and charging system works great.
I'm confused with the low compressions though. I feel it is either bad head gaskets, bad /warped head(s) or stranger then that, that the valves aren't closing properly???
Since all this came about very suddenly makes it evan more confusing. The engine only has 35,000 miles on it. It was put in new in 2002.
The OBDII data link on mine has never worked so I can't get any signals from it.
So if anyone out there has an idea, please let us in on it.
Thanks
ANYBODY know what is going on?? This seven day cycle has me stumped. Also, the 7th day when it won't start has been on a Sunday. True! Go figure. Is there something in the computer that happens after 7 days. I figure every time I run the dianogists it would reset the computer. After the 5th week of this, for some reason I could not run the diagnostics to get it to start.
It is a great car otherwise. Maybe it just has the "seven_day_itch" and wants to retire. Or maybe it is Jewish. HELP!!
It is located under the radiators protective cover (and looks like a cars computer)
I am still looking for the cause of the blown cap on the one I am working on, so I will have the FIX for you guys as soon as I can, but this will give you a place to put the band-aid till I find where the leg is broke.
about a month ago, i started having starting issues, the car would start fine sometimes, and then at times, i would shut if off and it would not start again, it would turn over strong, but not start, we would get a jump and it would start and run fine. So i assumed maybe it was the battery, we took it and had it checked, they said the negative terminal was loose, put on a new one and for a few weeks i once again had no problems, then the same thing started happening again, So i took it back to where i got the battery, they tested it AGAIN and said, it may be the alternator, i do not think so, since it seems to turn over well.
Anyway, the first guy again tightened up the negative terminal and after my car would not start at ALL, so they went ahead and put in a new battery, still no start, finally someone opened the fuse box under the hood, did something with one of the relays, and it started, we drove home, shut it off, and it has not started since, not with a jump, not on its own, BUT it still turns over fine.
Any ideas on what this could possibly be? when i was getting a jump to see if we could start it, i did notice that the negative terminal was STILL loose, where the 2 wires went into the connector i could loosen the bolts with my fingers, and one of the 2 wires was not in the terminal at all anymore, this is how loose it had become, i fixed that, hoping.. that would solve my issue, but it didnt.
ANY ideas on where to start would be great, i can not take it anywhere, as it does not start, Thanks!
this explains the no compression state
change chain and any bad gears
(or could be a tensioner)
Listen for a hissing noise in that area when the car is first started.
Jeff
Thanks for answering. You are the first one I've read that even comes close to my question, much less an answer.
I believe you are right. That is exactly what I suspected after my tests and also when the so called "mechanic" said my engine was SHOT. I just couldn't believe an engine that new and running as good as it had would quit so suddenly.(with NO noises or warning(s) etc.) BTW that "mechanic" is the head of the service dept. at a good size shop here. See what I have to contend with? And I thought the big cities were bad haha.
Do you have any idea what it might cost to get this fixed?
It's a nice car and I'd like to get it going again. This Obama Oppression though has gotten me into a "not as sound" financial situation. In the spring I could probably do it myself???
Thanks for your reply....Marv
Thanks....
The vacuum lines in my 1997 Sable are broken. Where do I find the replacement part? Appreciate your help.
Thanks.
However, the car did overheat once before it died. Someone told me that when the engine overheated a crack may have occurred, which maybe what is causing the engine to loose compression and not turn over. I don't know where the crack may have occurred. Does anyone know how to check this? Were would the crack occur...in a seal, on the engine block (compression cylinder)....
Thanks.
If anyone has ANY information on this problem, please help. I would really like this problem fixed!