2013 and earlier-Honda Civic Prices Paid and Buying Experience

pakcikkayo

Check Mark Roberts Motors (MRM) in Bartleville, OK. Their price is the best I could find right now.Give them a call. I'm in TX and will be flying to Tulsa to pick up my EX 5MT Sedan when it arrives - hopefully before the end of February. Dealer in Texas won't deal more than $400 below MSRP. MRM price is at least 1K below MSRP - destination included. For LX Auto Sedan you can drive OTD $16891 + $49.50 doc fee. There are at least 5 LX Auto listed in MRM we.link title

pakcikkayo

TTL not included though.
No options if you don't want to.

Still learning how to post message here so bear with me.

wintertiger

$18.5k is OK but not great. Sale price below $16.5k before TTL is hot.

aclaverie

wow

"dealers have the upperhand"

Buy a Kia.

rutger3

My point was not to compare the civic to the kia or cavalier, but to the corolla or mazda 3. The dealers would have you think that the civic is a revolutionary achievement never before seen by mankind with almost unimaginable improvements over every other vehicle ever made. In reality it is a nice dependable small car with good proposed gas mileage. As it is new and designed nicely it won a car and driver award, again this is a plus for Honda. However, the Corolla gets better mileage in real world tests, and is just as dependable. When it is redesigned toyota will probably make the same claims as honda. I will just wait for the civic supply to catch up to demand, then make a purchase. Cars like the kia and jetta cannot compete with the civic or corolla.

1honda1

i been shopping around for while for the best price on the civic ex 4dr automatic and everyone keeps telling me theysell at sticker and i was gettin furious...paying 19,610 for a civic come on what am i stupid....i just bought one 2 days ago from a honda dealer on route 23 in north jersey and they gave me the car for 17,422 + destination and tax and all that good stuff....they were no hassle no haggle and didnt pull the wool over my eyes about the sticker price bs......let me know if i got a good deal or if i could have done better

miamidolfan

I got 2006 Civic LX Auto + MudGaurd + Wheels Locks for $17400 Out the door. From Tim Marburger Honda, Albermarle NC

seawea

Great price. I'm from Philly, and a 2006 Civic LX auto sedan can be had for only $16,375 including destination charge. But, yours is an EX. It's a dealership called Conceillo or something like that, I forgot the correct spelling, but they offer me $16,375 for an automatic no less. But, I kinda want them to bring it down to around $16,000, cause I am cheap.

integradriver

That would be Conicelli in Conshohocken.

I was able to beat their price by a scant $100 after looking at about six places, but they had the car I wanted in stock and I was running out of insurance rental car coverage.

You are aware that $16375 is invoice, right?

abhiutd

Hi,
I have got the exact same deal from DCH Academy Honda on route 9 so the price is 17421+550(destination charge)+129(doc fee). The only concern i have is am i paying a lot for destination and doc fee?? Please advice guys since i want to make a decision this week.
Thanks to all of you for sharing your exp.makes things easy!
cheers!

blane

$550 Destination charge is a Honda factory figure across the entire country and will not be negotiable.

$129 Documentation fee may have some fat in it. Ask for a detailed breakdown, some of which (maybe about $75) is probably negotiable if they want to make a sale NOW.

kyfdx

Something to ponder..

Your deal isn't for $17,421.. Your price is $18,100 plus tax..

Your dealer breaks it down that way to make it seem lower...

mikefm58

" Your price is $18,100 plus tax.. "

Yep, still a great deal though compared to what others have paid close to MSRP.

deathandtaxes

I'm hoping one of the HOSTS and others quoting prices will respond. At least a few people in this thread have said they received invoice pricing on '06 Civic LXs and EXs (with or without AT)on their first trips to dealerships--without (apparently) any negotiating. I live in Pittsburgh and have been pricing the '06 LX with AT for about two weeks. The best price I have received (on the car itself)is $16850 with destination charge included; the invoice price with des. charge is $16,375--wherever you live in the U.S. I thought I might have a small advantage by buying in January in a city/state where the winter weather affects sales, but after reading this thread, I'm wondering how folks in Philadelphia and Virginia/D.C. receive invoice prices without even asking. I mean, how are the salespeople making any money? Sure, the dealers have holdbacks, but the salespeople receive little if any of that. Maybe a few others could offer the price received on the car itself (with destination charges included)and a breakdown of the other elemnts to their deals (trade-in, taxes, title, etc.)to clarify the matter. Or maybe someone should offer me directions to another city.

aswo1

Was pleasantly surprised this week when buying a civic ex coupe w/navi MT black pearl at Wolfchase Honda Memphis for first offer 19,280 plus doc and tax and no dealer adds. They agreed to the offer up front, no hassle. They had to do a dealer swap in St Louis for the car because they only had 5 civics in inventory. Was the easiest, most satisfying consumer transaction I've encountered in 30 years of buying cars. I'm a newcomer to the area so can't compare to other area stores. And what a terrific car. All the neighbors have stopped by to admire.

drexelnet

Actually invoice is $15,825 for a Civic LX auto sedan. I'm just hoping that I could get the car for under $17,300(OTD). I'm just hoping that when I get to the dealership, they won't try to add dealer option, thus increasing the actual price for the car and that my car doesn't have that noisy sound that I have been hearing in this board. I'm glad that you enjoy for car. I was wondering if the Civic are still being made in Japan, rather than in USA?

integradriver

If you back out the $550 destination, yeah, you've got $15825. Not too many dealer add ons (door guards, wheel locks etc)that are legitimately priced, might help to catch one right off the truck.

keptname

If it helps... I actually do my negotiating online. They get a spreadsheet outlining all of the costs with the out the door price. This way, there are no surprises when I get there. If they have changed the price or added something, I walk away.

bevvyny

Very close to closing a deal on a Galaxy Gray, LX coupe, AT.
Price with destination $16593. (MSRP 17110 + destination=17660)
After tax, title, license fees: $17888.
This was an initital internet deal. Have met with the dealer. THis is also at this time based on no trade. ( I am trying to sell my car privately first). Not sure what will happen to the cost if I decide to trade.

Does this sound like a good deal as currently standing? :confuse:

Invoice with destination is: $16193.

thebill

C'Mon folks. This is the best small car on the road in the States. The diff. between invoice and msrp is only 1500 bucks. This that too much profit to ask????

Give me a break.

Placeman

Yes, it is too much. I've never paid over $200 over invoice for any new car (i've bought about 5 new cars). Yes, it's a new model year. The frenzy will wear off and then you'll be able to get a decent price after all those people who have to have it NOW buy theirs.

deathandtaxes

Are you working for The Man? Or are you The Man? I have to assume many Civic buyers are living on a budget and can only afford so much. Of course people selling cars need to make money too; the question is how much they should make. 8-10% is a fairly healthy profit--notice all the jewelry too many (not all) sellers are wearing. If we had to purchase food and medicine through the same lengthy negotiations, many of us would die. I'll defend the idea of profit, but I won't defend profiteers. We all--fair consumers and honest sellers--need a new business model. I have to ask: did you buy a Civic at retail prices?

travis77

A-MEN!!! everybody has to make a living,,, if someone is jealous about what the dealer makes,,, then they should go be a dealer and make the money. I bought my 06 civic ex for $200 under msrp and didn't even ask for it,,,, i would have paid full price with no problem,, because the car is worth every penny considering the dealer i went to was selling 03 civics with 25,000 miles for $900 less than an 06 model. My car is the best investment i have ever made as far as buying a car goes considering the resale value,,, :shades:

njgrrrrl75

Travis,where did you find this great dealership? I'm in VA & have a poor credit history, but have a cosigner in my fiance since this is going to be our family car. We will know something in the am, since we were in the dealership later in the evening. What kind of leverage do we have with pricing since I have a poor credit history?

macydog

I bought a 2006 Honda Civic Si at a dealership in Minneapolis, MN for MSRP + $550 destination. I know there are posters here who think I am an idiot for paying it. But hey, when you have a model that is in high demand, the product is a quality product (lets hear some argue against Honda QUality) and you want the car now.....What is the point of waiting 6 months to get your car and then realize you only saved $400 - $700 ? In the grand scheme of a $20K car....your talking about a minut amount of cash. Nothing I love more than a good old tire kicker, those are the people they try to screw 8 ways to Sunday on financing or some stupid charge..... Best wishes to the bargain shoppers out there....if I speed by you and blow the paint off your 76 pinto wagon....I won't feel bad

integradriver

If you drop the trade on them at the end like that, the only thing they can't do is show you an overallowance on it. But if you get a tax credit, they can usually show the car at MSRP on the deal, and add your discount to your trade value.

Regardless, if it's a legit deal, there's nothing that dropping a trade on them can do to make them increase their price.

bevvyny

Thx... integradriver! Thus far it's all legit. I even told them I am trying to sell on my own and would get back to them by the end of the week. They have put a sold sign on the car, I have my paperwork in hand.

So you are saying if I end up doing the trade they could raise the price?

Everything I have read says to negoiate a price first, then talk trade.

No matter, the 06 LX civic is still a good car for the price, and I have been comparing other cars.

Thx.

blane

travis77,

You wrote "My car is the best investment i have ever made as far as buying a car goes.." We should ALL recognize that purchasing a new car has never been an investment. Investments appreciate in value. Except for antique cars, and a very few exotics, cars ALWAYS DEPRECIATE in value.

rutger3

Okay, it is difficult to tell Now if this is a great investment, until you go to sell the car later and see how you do. By investment, I look at it another way. Not all investments gain in value, some lose and lose alot. Check out some mutual funds over the past few years. The interest rates are still not that high. Also, compared to the depreciation on other vehicles, honda is much lower, so you lose less. So only when compared to other vehicles, honda's and toyota's are good 'investments'. If you have two mutual funds, one lost $500 last year, the other $3000, the first one is a better investment even if it did lose money. WHen you go to sell your car, getting $10,000 is better than getting $7000.

thebill

By your screen name, I can already tell that you are a factual kind of guy.

8-10% is a very healthy profit. "THE MAN" makes 6% profit in my state and isnt even in the business. on a 19000 dollar vehicle, 1900 dollars is a deal that every can deal with, thats why Honda priced them as such. On a 35000 dollar Pilot, that why you see an invoice for around 3500 less than MSRP.

"profiteering" is simply taking advantage of people. If I were selling Fords before the family plan, I could sell a 2 year old Ford for more than full retail value and make alot of money...buy with Hondas, I have to put my faith in volume and customer service to make my living.

bottom line- everyone has to eat. remember that people

thebill

poor credit has nothing to do with prices.

gettting you approved is the most important thing. if you dont get approved, then wasting time online emailing dealers and visiting different dealers for prices is unwise.

grab all you pay stubs, your utilities bills, your references, save back about 10 percent of what you want to buy then go to the dealership cloest to home with the best service department and try to get approved and then enjoy your new/new to you vehicle.

mikefm58

" bottom line- everyone has to eat. remember that people "

Oh how pathetic!!!

integradriver

No, they can't raise the price if you have a done deal. But what they might do to help you out on taxes (if it's applicable in your state) is something like this:

Say MSRP is $20K and they're selling you for $18K and your trade is worth $4K. If you went with those numbers, you'd get a tax credit on $4K. If we go back to $20K and 0 discount, but show you $6K for your trade, you get a tax credit on $6K.

Make sense?

thebill

how is that pathetic? explain it to me.

As an honorably discharged veteran, I'll listen to any point of view.

I work 55-50 hours per week. Atleast every other day I am out dealing with previous customers issues (I have driven out to the country to change tires, picked up and driven people home for service, etc...) I EARN my pay. I sell between 12-18 vehicles (Hondas mind you) every month and I make a good living. 200-500 dollars per vehicle usually. If someone pays within 1000 of invoice, I only make between 50-100 for my time and usually headaches(with these kind of buyers) and I give the same professional demo and service before, during, and after the sale to everyone.

So how am I pathetic? I am currently negotiating 5 deals and you are on your computer at work (how can you be productive like that) or at home (again, how can you be productive). Just explain your point of view instead of spouting off insults.

I defended your freedom of speach for many years, I dont mind you using it, but do it intelligently.

Placeman

I smell a flame war brewing and I am guilty of adding to it, but with all due respect, let's try to move away from the "how much profit is fair" discussion and get back to what people are actually paying for there Civics and where they are getting the best deals.

Just my $.02

thebill

LOL, I understand.

From my vantage point, I wish everyone were posting: "I paid MSRP minus X for my trade"

lol

w9cw

The difference in factoring in a trade after negotiating a cash deal is the amount of money they will give you for your trade. Dealers typically "show" a certain amount of money for your trade if it is initially negotiated with the trade in mind. However, if you decide to trade after cash negotiation, they will not give you that figure, rather the ACV (actual cash value) of the vehicle.

There is no free lunch when buying a car. The dealer will either inflate the trade value, i.e. "show" price, and not give you as much from the bottom end, or give you more money from the bottom end, and only give you the "ACV" on the trade.

The absolute best way to negotiate is to know not only the factory invoice, but also the dealer's holdback, and any incentives the factory may be giving the dealer above and beyond the holdback. Obviously, some of this is guess work, but reasonably close estimates can be made. Depending on the dealer, a 3% to 5% profit may be sufficient margin.

Your credit rating will not affect your negotiated price (at least it shouldn't), but it will affect the available financing rate of course - should you decide to finance the car rather than paying cash.

mikefm58

Any salesman who uses the line "Gee I have to eat" in order to increase their commission is IMHO, pathetic. That's without a doubt the oldest line in the book. If a salesman used that on me, it would be an immediate deal killer.

I don't care to get in to a discussion about "how much profit is fair profit". I approach a car purchase like a business transaction and want the product for the cheapest price I can. I don't need or want a car salesman as by the time I'm talking price I already know exactly what I want and how I'm going to pay for it. My discussions are very quick, I offer a price, they accept or reject it and I move on. Granted, I've already done my homework so I know the going price.

And in case you're wondering, I have paid full MSRP for a vehicle in the past. Why? Because it was the going rate at the time.

Mr. thebill, you go above and beyond what most people would feel a car salesman should do and that has worked for you, so I'm happy for you. No disrespect intended, but I have no use for the sales person, they are there to merely write up the order.

integradriver

Real money for a car salesman comes from used cars anyway. Sure, you can look up a 'fair' price to pay, but you have no idea what that car was traded in for.

kyfdx

Lets get back to actual "Prices Paid"...

Thanks!
kyfdx

pulisubs

Hi,

I'm looking for an EX MT w/Navi in the Orlando area. Any posters here from Orlando know what the prices are around this area? Is everyone paying MSRP or is the price negotiable?

I'm not really in a hurry... so do you guys think the prices will be more negotiable as the lots get filled up?

Thanks in advance for the responses...

travis77

The dealership is Cookeville Honda in Cookeville TN. Between my wife and i we have bought 5 cars from them in the past,,, but anyway i posted in previous threads how wonderful they are,, my credit score was also really,really low,,, if you go back to the post #'s 2835 and 2838 you can read my story. I did get the car for no money down also.

bevvyny

Yes it makes sense, thank you.

And as I did state, I made it known that I was trying to sell my car first. The dealer was and is nice, has not tried to sell me a lot of other accessories, they were mentioned, but no pressure.

I am going to one more dealer to check on their price verse what I currently have. This other one only has "1" in stock, and quoted me an online price of 17000, plus the usual tax title, license, etc.

Now does anyone know why is it some dealers use KBB and others use NADA for book values? NADA actually has higher average trade in values than KBB.

2006diane

I'm looking to purchase a new car in the next few days, and am leaning towards the 2006 Civic EX 4-door automatic. I've been making contacts with dealers over the Web, and have been quoted the following prices: 19117, 19110 and 18960 (though the last one has not yet replied to verify model/features). I'm in the Dallas/Fort Worth area. Does anyone think I can do better? I'd appreciate your advice...thanks!

integradriver

In my experience, dealers will try to use whatever reference will give the LOWEST trade in value, although the State of DE uses NADA for retail value (used cars only, like people moving in)to assess State Doc Fees. When I was asking about potential values for my stolen car, they whipped out a publication called 'Black Book' for used car values. I think it's a local production, based on local auction prices. YMMV.

Personally, once you've gotten the best deal that you think is going to come on the straight purchase of your new car, expect a somewhat lower than average trade in value. But at least you don't have to worry about selling your own car.

As an additional aside, the two cars that I've traded in both had somewhat alarming mechanical issues, so I was more or less glad to take what I could get. In fact, when we bought our Kia Sedona, and they offered $4000 for a rough '97 RAV-4 (hit three times, disturbing clank when it went over bumps, 100K+ miles you get the idea), I told my wife take it and run!

gogiboy

"I'm looking to purchase a new car in the next few days, and am leaning towards the 2006 Civic EX 4-door automatic. I've been making contacts with dealers over the Web, and have been quoted the following prices: 19117, 19110 and 18960"

I checked the Mark Roberts Honda website and they have a handful of EX 4 dr/auto for $18488, which is roughly $500 less than your lowest offer. For what it's worth they seem to be straight shooters and plenty of people fly in from out of state to buy (if you believe this website among others). Roberts is located in Bartlesville, OK about an hour north of Tulsa and roughly 6-7 hours from Dallas/Fort Worth. Roberts' prices have been known to get folks better deals from the Tulsa dealerships, too. I wish I'd have known about them in 94 when I bought my Civic since I only live 1 1/2 hours away.

I don't agree politically with the owner, but that is for another chat group.

Gogiboy

jmurman42

does the 18488 include the $550 freight?

biggy213

I live in pittsburgh,PA and i was offered $18350 with $550 include. I turned it down because i wanna pay close to invoice and i have all the time.

rowe33

Hi, I have a quote for a price of 18,525 (includes all fees, tax, license, destination) here in the Los Angeles area for a 2006 Civic LX. This seems pretty good to me - anyone have an opinion?

Thanks!

cool_robg

I'd be happy to share my experience as I just picked up my 2006 Civic EX coupe (auto tranny) tonight.

Negotiated Price: $18,600

All in, TTL, I paid $20,352 here in NYC. It's a bit more than I would have liked to have doled out but I needed a car quickly and the Civic was an excellent fit. I think you can do better though.

The first price the dealer threw at me was a hair under $19k. I countered w/ $18,500. In retrospect I wish I had thrown out a slightly smaller number. $18,300 comes to mind - this is approx $300 over invoice and a fair deal in my eyes. After all, you'll never know what you could have gotten unless you actually ask. After throwing numbers back and forth we agreed on the $18,600 number.

Long story short, I am comfortable with the deal. While it's not great, it's good and I'll sleep just fine at night. I look forward to having the flexibility I need with this purchase - I can sell the car in 18 months if I choose or drive it into the ground for as long as it will let me w/o having to worry about going over the mileage or repairing excessive dents/dings.

Good luck!