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Ford Explorer Mercury Mountaineer 2005 and earlier



  • cubescubes Posts: 29
    Ryster, I checked my lease contract for our 2002 AWD Mountaineer and it is dead on at 45%. The two main things you want when leasing are:
    1) Highest possible residual value
    2) Lowest possible money factor, ie interest rate.
    Actually there is a third item, which is the lowest possible selling price which becomes your capitalized cost and transaction starting point.

    Personally, I could care less if the vehicle I'm leasing will be worth half as much as the contract RV, since I'm not looking at buying it out. Unless of course, by some sort of financial miracle it's worth is half again as much as the RV (fat chance). If that were to happen you buy the vehicle for RV and sell it on the open market for a profit.

    The point being is a manufacturer can set a RV anywhere they want, within reason, to move vehicles. They may also play with the Money Factor as well. They may take a hit at lease end, but there are other places in the transaction that they make on. I don't think you can look at 'real world' values at lease inception because you really don't know what the real world will look like in 3-4 years. The Explorer/Firestone situation is a perfect example.

    As always, YMMV
  • rysterryster Posts: 564
    I was merely pointing out that if you look at real-world values of Explorers/Mountaineers after 36 months, you will see that 35-40% is a closer number. If a financial institution sets a higher residual with lower than average money factor, the consumer wins. 45% is a good deal on a Mountaineer.

    It is very important to look at real-world values when getting into a lease. The last thing you want to do is get stuck in a lease with a residual value that is artificially low. You would end up paying way too much to "borrow" the car over the term of the lease.

    Leases are not the bargain they used to be. Financial institutions set their residuals way too high during the leasing boom, and the market became flooded with 2 and 3 year old used cars thus reducing the market values of the cars. While the residuals being used currently are more reflective of market conditions, they are not as high as they used to be. There are still some good lease deals out there, but the cars they used to be best for (BMW, Lexus, Cadillac, etc.) now require significant cap. cost reductions/down payments. By the time you come up with a $3-$5K down payment, it is much more cost effective to finance the vehicle.

    Ultimately, though, it is whatever best suits the buyer. With the number of SUV's being leased and sold in the US, the depreciation is only going to increase as more and more hit the secondary market. When the economy improves, and manufacturers put a hold on huge incentives and special financing, the residuals will improve. For now, though, they are going to drop like rocks.
  • As discussed earlier in this forum, Ford is making several mid-year changes to the Explorer. These new versions will still be sold as MY2002 vehicles and should be available on the lot this month.

    For those of you in the market for an Explorer, here is a list of the changes per the new Ford ordering guide:

    New Standard equipment on XLT:
    1) Fog Lamps
    2) Black leather wrapped steering wheel
    3) Electrochromatic mirror
    4) Low back bucket seats with adjustable head rests (standard on XLS too)

    In addition, there is the new optional XLT Sport Group package that was discussed earlier in this forum.

    Other mid-year changes:
    1) Color keyed running boards on Eddie Bauer and Limited
    2) New colors (Aspen green replaces Dark Highland Green, True Blue replaces Deep Wedgewood Blue and Silver Birch replaces Silver Frost)
    3) Easy entry/exit driver seat on Eddie Bauer and Limited is programmed to move 1-2 inches for easier entry and exit from the vehicle
    4) AdvanceTrac enhanced stability control system available with 4.6L V8
    5) Moonroof and auxiliary climate control can now be ordered together and will include a new medium overhead console.
  • 5greyhounds5greyhounds Posts: 338
    I put my Windstar in for some very minor work prior to going out of the 3/36 warranty and I was given a 2002 XLT as a loaner. Not bad but I did notice a rattle in the dash (like a lose bolt) and the "old spring" sound from the rear sway bar bushing as has been noted by several persons. It has a sunroof that is a little lose when open. The rear sensor system in nice as in the leather. Overall, not bad but not as good as I would expect from a vehicle with only 12K on it. However, as a loaner I am sure it has had a rough time of it. Do not get me wrong, I am a Ford fan and if this was mine these little irritants would have been fixed long ago.
  • gregb882gregb882 Posts: 75
    A number of you in this thread (as well as other threads) have talked about a rattle in your dash which you had repaired. My 2002 XLT with 10,500 miles has developed this rattle and I'd like to know if anyone was told by the dealer what they actually had to do to fix it. This may help me expedite repairs of mine. The front bushing squeak has also developed but I know what to tell them on that thanks to your posts. Overall, I'm very happy with my first Explorer. Thanks in advance for your help.
  • mrankellmrankell Posts: 21
    I am wondering about what tire pressure to use in my 2002 Mountaineer with 245 70R 16 Goodyear LS tires. The label calls for 30lbs. in the front and 35lbs. in the rear. Since I normally do not carry any heavy loads, could I use 35 all the way around. Has anyone experimented with different pressures.


    m. rankell
  • I saw an XLT Sport on a dealers lot over the weekend. It caught my eye because of the different wheels. It was wearing 17" BF Goodwrich tires. Wheels looked similar to what come on the F150 FX4 package. The lower cladding was actually painted gray instead of the that cheap looking plastic they use on the XLT. It had fog lights just like the ones on EB & Limited. It was painted True Blue.
  • I own a 2002 4WD, V8 XLT with towing package and Michelin tires, and I usually run without any significant loads. That said, I personally see no reason to vary the tire pressures from what is recommended by Ford, since my vehicle rides and handles quite well as is.
  • cramirezcramirez Posts: 4
    I put 18" American wheels on my Explorer with toyo proxes st 255/55/18 I love them. The sidewall isn't too low so I don't have to worry about potholes.
  • a36a36 Posts: 10
    I have read passing references to a rattle sound
    or noise from the "front end" of others on this
    site. I have had this for some time and the day
    that the dealer had the car to find it was the one day is snowed in NE Texas. Not much luck in
    finding such a problem when the roads are wet. It
    is not a loud noise, but persistent, on uneven
    pavement. The sign off by the dealer said that
    the front suspension had been checked and no problems were found.

    I have been under the car while another person
    rocks the steering wheel from side to side so that a knocking sound results. You can feel the
    "knock" in the rack and pinion steering box. It
    is most prominent in the pinion shaft housing.

    This was not a day one problem, but developed over time. Have any others had this problem and had it corrected? If so, I would like to know what to tell the dealer to look for.
  • nbrooks1nbrooks1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Mountaineer AWD and pull a small Airstream TT. When towing, I suggest 40lbs in the rear and 35lbs up front. When not towing, what Mercury shows on the door sticker should be followed. By the way, I love my Mercury...almost as much as my Excursion.
  • Under warranty, a few months ago I (supposedly) had the front swaybar bushings of my 2002 Explorer XLT replaced due to the well-documented creaking sound when the vehicle negotiates bumps, etc., and the noise then disappeared until recently, but it has now returned. So, I plan to take the vehicle back to a different Ford dealer's service center to further address this problem, but my concern is that Ford needs to come up with a DEFINITIVE and LASTING solution to this problem, rather than my having to have the swaybar bushings replaced every few months! [Of course, it's also possible that the original dealer's service center (which I eventually "fired" for certain reasons) may not have actually replaced these bushings as they claimed, but may have merely lubricated them. Indeed, when I first brought the vehicle to the original dealer to have this problem corrected, they initially told me they would have to order parts, but they soon came back and said that the parts happened to be in stock after all (!!), and a short time later, they handed me the keys and claimed they had replaced the parts in question.
    Hmmm...I wonder if that was actually the truth?]
  • gregb5gregb5 Posts: 82
    I posted on this subject some time ago. I had the problem and the dealer lubed the bushings. It worked... for awhile. I spoke to the service dept and gave them the info (Service message #15684 and part #1L2Z5484BA) that had been posted by KHEINTZELMAN. He checked that and said that is the original part number. He looked into it and discovered that "engineering is working on a permanent solution" to the problem.

    So, anything they are doing right now is just temporary, to quiet the customer. Follow up with the dealer periodicaly to see if there is a fix.
  • hungry2hungry2 Posts: 11
    I just got home from picking up my 02 mountaineer which was in for oil, rotate, creaky noise and broken door remote. The remote needs to be replaced (9 months old!) The sway bar information says:cause:9016 and also says"5493AT INSULATORS OR BUSHINGS-STABILIZER BAR- REPLACE (5493)-L" whatever that means. The next page says"2 1L2Z*5484*BA INSULATOR-FRONT SWAY BAR FC:N59 42
    PART#: 1L2Z*5484*BA"

    It also says test and diag noise RXR sway bar bushings. She told me they replaced the bushings. Did they? The noise is gone, but from this board it sounds like it will be back. It is annoying but can it be harmful to the vehicle? Just looking for any info because I really don't know what this part does, also what would this repair cost if it was out of warranty???
  • gregb5gregb5 Posts: 82
    The sway bar is there to reduce body roll when cornering by sharing the load across the entire vehicle. It attaches at 4 points. The parts that are a problem are the inboard mounts. They aren't expensive or difficult to replace, and the noise will not cause any drivability issues, other than the noise itself. The above post confirms what my service writer told me: no permanent fix is yet available. The part number posted above is the number of the original part that is the cause of the noise.
  • cameleyecameleye Posts: 3
    Ref. "I just bought a new 2002 Mountaineer V-6. I have noticed that when I come to a stop with the vehicle in drive, I can feel the engine pulsating through the brake pedal and vibrating my left leg that rests against the door. I had previously tested a demo for a weekend and didn't notice this shaking."
    The unit has been in the shop for a week. I don't think they can pinpoint the problem. The latest guess was to replace the plug wires. I hope thats it
    because if not, they're just shooting in the dark.
    Should I (demand) ask for a new vehicle?
  • joeadpjoeadp Posts: 68
    Anyone using Mobil One oil?

    Thinking of going synthetic but not sure because the recommended oil for the V8 is 5w-20w.

    Would like to stretch the oil changes with Mobile one any thoughts?
  • mcom1mcom1 Posts: 1
    I wanted to check to see if anyone else has experienced the following noises in their 2002 V8 4x4 Explorers:
    1. When cold, there is a buzzing noise that seems to be coming from the back of the engine compartment. It disappears when you let off the gas and often returns occasionally until the vehicle is warmed up. This may be associated with the previous post about a transmission valve TSB.

    2. From 50 -70 miles per hour (1500-2200 RPM), my Explorer makes a noise that sounds like either noisy valves or possibly a slight exhaust leak. HOWEVER, the noise cannot be replicated by attaining the same RPM in neutral or in DRIVE holding the car with the brakes. So, it does not appear that a noise created by the engine but something else in the driveline....Any ideas?

    So far, the Ford Dealer has come up empty!
  • gregb5gregb5 Posts: 82
    I have #1. Haven't tried to fix it; it doesn't seem to be causing any performance problems. By the way, I had the valve body replacement done due to shifting problems. Now I have a new transmission but that noise persists. It's fine now from a performance standpoint.
  • gregb5gregb5 Posts: 82
    Mobil 1 does not make a 5W-20 grade, and won't in the near future. I use AMSOIL XL-7500 and change at 7500 mile intervals. You can buy it direct from their website. So far, so good!
  • I agree with Gregb5, I also use AMSOIL XL-7500 5W-20 oil. Ordering off their site is very easy, you can also order the filters, part # SDF11. I've used AMSOIL in all my cars for many years. There is a seperate site on Edmunds Town Hall dedicated to the synthetic vs conventional debate which has some good information. Personally I believe the synthetic gives better protection.
  • Initially, Ford dealer "A" (who sold me my 2002 XLT) replaced the swaybar bushings, but I've since fired dealer "A"'s service shop, and I've begun using dealer "B" for service. Dealer "B" has a fine shop, and today they re-inspected my swaybar bushings and said that dealer "A" had indeed replaced them, but they apparently installed them "dry" without the required lubrication, and this is what soon led to the noise returning. So, dealer "B" lubed the bushings, and all is well once again. Should the noise return, they'll replace the bushings themselves, under warranty.

    I'd also like to mention that because I bought my 2002 XLT with leather seats in 11/01, a leather wheel was not then available. But, I really, really wanted a leather wheel, and you may know that one has recently become available for newer 2002 XLTs. So, I ordered one from Ford ($225.00) and it was installed today ($68.00 labor). It is black leather, and it looks and feels wonderful! (The cruise control buttons are identical to the old wheel, and as far as the airbag is concerned, they simply pop out the airbag module from the old wheel and re-install it into the new leather wheel. This upgrade is expensive, but the results are worth it in my opinion--my wheel now looks and feels very classy and elegant, especially after applying some Zaino Leather Treatment/Conditioner).
  • tulsahogtulsahog Posts: 64
    Looking for opinions on when to change oil the first time on 2002 Explorer V8. Have always changed at around 2,000 miles on other new vehicles, but Ford dealer says no need to change until 3,000 or 5,000 depending on how driven.

    If I go by the oil life monitor, could wait till about 5,000 mi.
  • I changed oil at 2,000 miles, and then I change every 5,000 after that. I also use synthetic, as I believe it offers superior protection. In regards to the oil life monitor, it beeps at 5,000 miles, it is only a reminder. It's simple to reset.
  • de26de26 Posts: 1
    I've taken my Mountaineer to the dealership for two problems: the first is a rattling noise I hear when I'm driving on uneven pavement or driving up hills. It starts low, at first, and slowly increases. It is persistent and annoying.

    The second is the knock inside my steering wheel. I feel it more when the weather is damp and the roads are slippery. When the service guy took my car for a test drive, he claims he didn't hear anything. So, I haven't had any luck.

    Although, I might add that I'm still under 35,000 miles and covered under warranty. Perhaps when I get over 35,000 miles they'll find the problem.
  • clr3clr3 Posts: 1
    We are looking at a 2002 EB v-8. Is advance trac a good option to have or is it unnecessary?
  • cramirezcramirez Posts: 4
    I know that I have asked this question before and that host has moved it to another area but I really need help. I have a 2002 Explorer V6 xls. sometimes when trying to start it will just crank and crank but will not start. When it finally does start I get black smoke or white smoke out of the tail pipe. The dealer have already change the fuel pump and checked for codes in the computer but no codes were present. It has been in the shop 2 times know and I'm ready to take it in again. But I wanted to see if anyone else has had the same problem or if you have any advice for me. thanks.
  • jerry2281jerry2281 Posts: 97
    I have AdvanceTrac on my 2001 Lincoln LS. In fact, one of the primary reasons I bought the LS was because, after 3 Pontiac Bonnevilles (SLE's), stability control was only available on the SSEI with a supercharger (unneeded for daily commuting). I would not buy another vehicle without it. I am looking for a Lincoln Aviator or Explorer Limited SUV as a replacement for my '99 Explorer with limited-slip and it will have AdvanceTrac.

    It provides extra confidence when turning a less than 90 degree corner, with the road slick with rain or snow and in less than ideal driving conditions. Especially in a rear-wheel drive vehicle. It operates seamlessly and kicks in before you realize you are in trouble. Once you have it, you will never buy another vehicle without it.
  • gregb882gregb882 Posts: 75
    I also have had some minor starting problems with my 2002 XLT 6 cyl, but not severe enough to get me to go through the bother of leaving it at the dealership for a couple of days. However, I have just over 13,000 miles and a couple of the usual rattles and squeaks have developed so I may be taking it in fairly soon. I'll let you know if anything develops from the service visit.
  • rysterryster Posts: 564
    Doesn't sound as though the new Explorers are built any tighter than the previous models. My '00 Explorer (22.5K miles) is pretty quiet, except for a horrendous rattle inside the dash somewhere. That, and the driver's door panel ticks incessantly in the mornings sometimes (that is more the dealer's fault than Ford, though).

    I have read various media reviews complaining of rattles and squeaks in the '02 Explorers as well. Please let us know how successful the dealer is in getting rid of them.
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