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Comments
It seems odd that many folks who post on these price forums seem to allow, at least to some extent, dealers to continually succeed in increasing prices paid through the use of the bogus document fees. This is nothing more than a scam devised by dealers to deceive their customers.
Does anyone really believe it cost a dealer $429 to complete a few documents using today's highly efficient computer programs?
There is simply no reason for any buyer to ever pay a dealer document fee. The minor cost to a dealer to prepare the documents is simply a cost of conducting business, no different than heat, lighting, or office supplies. All such costs are included in the vehicle price which, for the dealer, is all cost plus profit.
1. Finance agreement
2. Purchase Agreement
3. Buyers tag receipt
4. Odometer disclosure statement
5. Application for Title.
I also got a Honda Car Maintenance plan - M046 for $1200. Is that worth it ? How much will it cost me if i get regular maintenance done twice a year at any honda dealer. My car is going to run for less than 5K miles a year. Appreciate any thoughts/advice on this.
This is my first time buying a car - please let me know which one you'd recommend and what price I should expect to pay?
Thank you in advanced!
- As for price whatever RIPOFF car (true car) or Edmund's price comes back with for your area, I would look at - at least $1,000 off the price they quote. Keep in mind the dealers "document" fee's. The final price of the car will have those charges in it. When buying mine recently there was no budging, but with Black Friday right around the corner and the end of the month 2 weeks away plus the potential for some additional Holiday cash - you could get a great deal. After getting your prices - directly email the individual dealerships and see what their "best price" is. If there are deals to be had, you'll see it in the direct pricing.
Just don't visit the Dealer. Send them an email with an offer if you know what car you want. Then go in for a test drive. You are not obligated to purchase if you have negotiated a price. Or test drive first, walk out, and the next day make an offer on the car via email if you really want it. It is easier to talk them down and get a fair price this way, than face to face at the Dealership on their own turf.
Paying low prices makes it easier for everyone to negotiate a fair price. If some or most people pay high prices for their new cars, then that makes it harder for the rest of us that know how to negotiate, to try to get a car for invoice (or less).
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Any time I can slam this cheap sleezy organization (my opinion) I will. When a CEO takes full page adds out proclaiming how he will protect dealers all the while stealing $300 buck from a customer all for the sake of getting a "true car" deal, I say, never give truecar a dime. The fact that Consumer Reports uses True car made me drop the magazine. Cheap, sleezy, anti customer = Truecar. Keep the $300 bucks and never use TRUECAR service.
I am currently looking to buy a 2014 Honda Civic EX-L (no Navi). Did you just pay $21,240 including all the options you listed plus tax for EXL w/ Navi?
Currently a dealer at Dallas, Texas quotes me $22991 for the OTD price (6.25% sale tax rate here). I don't think this is a good deal for year end model sale compared to the price you paid back in October. Just wonder how much I should expect to pay for 2014 Civic EX-L now. I appreciate it if you can give me some suggestion.
What's the Florida money factor and residual value for a Honda Civic 2014 EX-L with Navigation?
Also, for Florida folks here, is $595 the correct cost of TTL fees (Orange County) ? This will be my first car in this state.
Lastly, I wanted to ask about the mileage allowance, I don't see people discussing the mileage here, is it always assumed to be 12k or 15k when prices are discussed on this forum?
Thanks
There aren't any assumptions when it comes to leases. Although, I'll have to assume you want 36mo, 15K/yr, because you didn't say..
.00011 MF and 50% residual for the sedan. $1000 dealer cash.
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Actually you are correct, I want a 15k/yr
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige
In other words when I calculate my target price, do I subtract a total of $2000 from the invoice price? I'm also planning of subtracting 2% of MSRP for holdbacks, is that a good formula to start the negotiations from?
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I'm not sure if I'm doing the math incorrectly or the deal is good. They both are charging around $700 dealer fees though but that still puts the net price $300 under the dealer cost.
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R / 2024 Kia Sportage Hybrid SX Prestige