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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a 1997 Grand Cherokke LTD. automatic that sometimes will not shift into overdrive. I cann turn the vehicle off and restart and it will then shift into overdrive. Anyone have any ideas?
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    Well changing the fuel filter would be a good thing, regardless if that is the problem or not; it's just good maintainance. I believe your rough idle is because you IAC(idle air control) is gummed up with varnish and gunk. The IAC is located on the throttle body, and if you take it off and clean it throughly, and where it goes back into the throttle body this will help your "rough idle" go away.
    When the IAC is gummed up it sticks, and gives the PCM a faulty reading resulting in rough idle. You may have to replace this sensor, but most times a good cleaning does the trick. Also check your air filter, and your spark plugs, as these will also give you rough idle.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    I have the exact same year/make/model as your mom does. I think that if the stereo is from a jeep product relativly close to '95 then there should be no problems. I myself love the Infinity gold series stereo, but wanted to replace it with my Alpine. Sorry to say, i had nothing but problems with conflicts going on with my vehicle after that.I finally had my PCM flashed and rebooted with fresh programming, and reinstalled the original stereo, to get my Jeep back to where i began.
    Before you decide to take anything out of the vehicle, phone a jeep dealership about how to go about getting around the factory alarm system, so you can replace the stereo.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • mcgmacmcgmac Posts: 4
    Just got an estimate from the dealer to fix the following - thought I'd share the information. Also wanted to share the dealer pricing and see if anyone else thought it was high.

    2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee V6
    - Replace Map Sensor ($375)
    - Replace Spark Plugs ($169)
    - Replace Serpentine Belt ($179)
    - Diagnosis ($140)
    Total $862
    - Labor Rate is $140/hr. (that seems high)
    I'll be honest, I've been very happy with this Jeep, but have never found the dealers to be the fair or best at maintenance or repair - fair meaning I felt like the service was worth the price and best meaning I have had not dealers perform more reliable service with better explanations and providing me with a complete breakdown an parts for replacement, etc. I expect I will take it to another Jeep repair shop and eat the diagnostic fee.

    Interested if anyone has thoughts on this - please feel free to share.
  • mcgmacmcgmac Posts: 4
    Thought you'd be interested in my post in case things change: #2441
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Posts: 45
    Trickster, I'm reading these horror stories about electrical problems after installing stereo's other then original equipment from jeep. I was just going to install a pioneer sound system in my 96 GC. Can this really present me with a problem, if I use the wiring kit that is pre wired with end plugs. The one that is made to plug into the radio harness on one end and into the radio on the other end? :confuse: I will wait for a response before jumping into this. Thanks in advance.
  • rmd1rmd1 Posts: 1
    Indicator light and warning signal keep saying that my left front tire is very low on pressure. It isnt. Had it checked at a gas station. Am not near a dealership. Does anyone know how to turn off this annoying warning? Thanks.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    My advice to you is that you talk to a dealership about this, and ask if there is any possible problems/conflicts that may arise. I myself did not have the correct wiring harness for my particular stereo and jeep. Also talk to the stereo dealer that sold you the stereo, and ask for any problems/conflicts that may arise.
    Just a thought: If the stereo dealer will give you a garantee of workmanship on installing the stereo,(so if anything goes wrong because of the installation)would this not be a wise choice of action, for just in case?
    You may have to pay a couple of hundred dollars for installation, but this may save you thousands of dollars in repairs. Always get a garantee in writing that is signed.
    On a more personal note: I would try to swap my stereo out again with the correct wiring harness, as I have good friends in the jeep industry that can help me solve my problems. However, I would do the research before i decide to commit the time/resources to the task at hand.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    WOW! Where are they getting these parts from... the moon?!
    If you have a compentent friend/neighbour, friend of a friend..ect. then do the work yourself, and save yourself a bundle of money. here is my appraisal of the parts:

    -map sensor:$100-$200 max.
    -spark plugs:$40-$60 max.
    -serpentine belt:$$20-$60 max.
    $320- maximum
    The diagnosis will have to be done by a dealership to reset the trouble codes on your jeep. If/when you decide/do get the work done take the vehicle straight to a dealership to have them reset the trouble codes, if you do not, chances are the map sensor will continue to run faulty because the PCM will still have the trouble code stored as a faulty sensor. This will certainally, in time, turn the map sensor faulty.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Posts: 45
    As always, Thanks so much for the advice. I will talk to the dealer before the installation, to be on the safe side.This Jeep has not cost me a dime, other then normal maintenance, brakes, tires, battery and belt. I'm happy to say that i've not had any of the problems that I read about on this forum. Thank GOD. Have a Blessed day, and again, a big Thank you.
  • I fixed my alarm problem. Open the hood, there is a alarm switch on the left side near the top of the passenger fender. If is not depressing all the way, then glue a piece of plastic or wood to the depresser on the hood to fully engage the switch when the hood is closed. This worked on my 93 thanks to a post I read on this sight. Good Luck!!
  • jeeps2jeeps2 Posts: 45
    Just got off the phone with the dealer. He assured me that if I use a good installation kit,which I have, I should feel comfortable about changing this stereo. He said my 96GC electrical system will not be affected by the change.Again, thanks for the advise. Jeeps 2
  • Your very welcome. I have developed blend door problems on my 2002. Came to this site for some help the same day I saw your plea. I found many others who are having the same problem as me. Happy to have helped along the way. Dan
  • tan28tan28 Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 JGC Limited. I am having the same problem you have. Everything works fine on the driver's side but the passenger side is blowing cold. My Jeep dealer wanted to do a diagnostic and then they would tell me the problem and approximate price. I wasn't happy with that, I don't want to pay $ 75-85 to find out they don't know what the problem is anyway. I took it to another dealer who said they would charge half the normal diagnostic fee to look at it-so, they took less than 20 min. to tell me that they would need to tear the dash off and find the problem, that would be at least 4 hours labor (70 an hour) and they still may not find the problem. BUT he didn't end up charging me anything. That was at the end of last winter, I decided to put it off till' this year. 2 days ago I took it to a radiator specialist at someone's suggestion-they said my radiator is fine, because I do have heat, but they also would need to tear dash apart and estimated that the heater control is bad and with 4-8 hours labor + parts it would cost $ 700-$ 1000 and said the part would need calibrated by the Jeep Dealership-SO, I might as well take it to the dealer, AND that still that was their educated GUESS. I am wondering if you have found anything more out or if blkhemi suggestion worked out. Thank you for any feedback.
  • tan28tan28 Posts: 4
    It sounds like I am having the same problem alot of others are having. I'm glad I found this forum. I also have a JGC 2001 with no heat on the passenger side. Everything else with the blower and heat works good. I also have had a dealer say it would be AT LEAST 4 hours labor and they weren't sure what it could be. Don't they ever look at the TSB's? Why should they when they can get diagnostic and labor fee's from you first?. Well, I will continue to read the other comments, because I will either trade my vehicle or attempt to fix it myself, mostly anyway. I have foil tape over the passenger side to cut down on the cold blowing in as a temporary fix.
  • Heating on drivers side but blowing cold on passenger side.
    My 2002 Overland is doing just that. There is a TSB on this problem. It summerizes that the blend door assembly needs to be replaced. TSB 2400104 dated 1/20/04. In short the dash will be removed,the freon in the air condintioning drained, and the faulty subassembly removed.
    I say faulty because these parts were made of cheap plastic and the shaft attached to the blend door has stripped. The blend motor works fine but the shaft spins instead of engaging. For further info check the TSB listed above at this site . Then click on the link HVAC sub assembly replacement. This TSB covers models 1999-2004.
  • Chrysler dealers are smarter than we think.$$$$$ My guess is that they do read the TSB. That's how they find out about the broken crap on our vehicles to tell us they do not know what's wrong. Over and over again at $90Hr on up!
    I do believe Jeep actually stands for Jerryrigded end 2 end partner! Check out this site
    Arrow through the countless problems that have come with these vehicles to TSB 2400104. Then click on the link HVAC subassembly replacement.
    This TSB covers models 1999-2004
  • bigg1bigg1 Posts: 1
    My interior lights cycle on after locking the doors with keyless remote. The alarms sets and the red alarm comes on. Then about 5mins later the alarm is off interior lights on like a door has been open. But all doors locked. I think the keyless entry module is bad but cannot locate it. I was told it might be in the over console in the rear of it but can not locate. Any help out there :confuse:
  • Hello,new,been going thru so many posts that I am just going to ask myself.I have a sound like the old budwieser ferret coming from my left front.weh er weh er when rolling even out of gear.gets faster with speed.Jacked her up,spun the wheel,brake pads look good,50k on Jeep,rotors not marked up that bad.nothing evident under her,no holes in boots ect.sprayed all linkage and bushings with lube,still there.Damn I wished they still used zircs on everything.I have never heard anything like it and do not want to start replacing stuff just guessing.I am a marine mechanic of 27yrs,have the tools and know how.As far as vehicles go,have rebuild engines,replaced trannies,clutches ect.Going to the dealer for a diag unless someone can point me.This is not a turning noise.
  • Hi. I have a 97 Cherokee also. My shop book says the keyless receiver for the door locks is in the overhead console or dome lamp housing. The power door lock system operates the door lock actuators mounted in each door. The system consists of the switches, actuators,relays and associated wiring. The door lock systems are operated by bi-directional solenoids located in the doors. The lock switches have two operationg positions: lock and unlock.
    These switches activate a relay, which in turn connects voltage to the door lock solenoids. Depending on which way the relay is activated, it reverses polarity allowing the two sides of the circuit to be used alternately as the feed (positive) and ground side. The book went on to say follow these steps to check for faults...Take out and check the fuses first. Operate the door lock switches in both directions (lock and unlock) with the engine off. Listen for the faint click of the relay operating.
    If there is no click, check for voltage at the switches. If no voltage is present, check the wiring between the fuse block and the switches for shorts and opens.
    If voltage is present but no click is heard, test the switch for continuity. Replace it if there is no continuity in either switch position.
    If the switch has continuity but the relay does not click,check the wiring between the switch and the relay for continuity. Repair wiring if there is no continuity.
    If the relay is receiving voltage from the switch but is not sending voltage to the solenoids, check for a bad ground at the relay case. If the relay case is grounding properly, replace the relay.
    If all but one lock solinoid operates, remove the trim panel from the affected door and check for voltage at the solenoid while the lock switch is operated. One of the wires should have voltage in the lock position:the other should have voltage in the unlock position.
    If the inoperative solenoid is receiving voltage,replace the solenoid. If the inoperative solenoid is not receiving voltage, check for an open or short in the wire between the
    lock solenoid and the relay.
    Finally, it is common for wires to break in the portion of the harness between the body and the door. Opening and closing over and over fatigues and eventually breaks the wires.
    It's always good to have a fresh battery in your transmitter. For our model year (1997) the battery # is DL2016. It's alot to soak up but I hope some of this might help your situation. CD PLAYER :shades:
  • Does any one know how to change a turn signal bulb for a '98 Grand Jeep Cherokee? I cannot figure out how to get to it. It's the front drivers side front bulb. I don't see any screws or easy access at all. Please help!
  • This is not as easy as it should be. I changed my bulb by removing the radiator grill. Lift hood. Disconnect the negative lead to your battery to prevent possible deployment of the airbag. Remove two screws on top.
    Kneel down and remove two smaller screws one left one right within the grill. The grill should lift out. Next grasp the lower half of the headlight and pull it back sharply to detach it from the adjuster pivots.
    Do the same with the upper half of the headlight.
    You may be able to access the two screws that hold the signal light housing without removing the side marker housing. If not there are two screws that hold it in place as well. If you run into any trouble check the illustrations in any Chilton manual under the Chasis Electrical section for the schematics. CD PLAYER
  • Hello nine76lori,
    I purchased my fifth JGC in MD, Veterans Day 11/11/04, at the same dealership previously used, but I now live in NC.

    The MD lemon laws say the car must be "tagged" in MD; the NC lemon laws say the car must have been "purchased" in NC.

    I got the newer 4WD because as a female with aging parents with cancer (1 died in April, '05) and now more nursing home and Medical Assistance details... I wanted a safe car to run up and down the coast in all kinds of weather.(killing me with details: both the medical world & Daimler Chrysler)

    The local dealer in NC refused to work on the car "warranty" wise within six weeks of purchase it had been in their garage so many times with the "check engine" light. Between FL & MD, I believe it has been in no less six different dealerships and some of them numerous times.

    The front pinion seal was slewing oil: replaced; the 2 up and 2 downwind of the catalytic converter o2 sensors were replaced; the catalytic converter was replaced at 12 weeks of ownership due to a hole in it; the electronic components for the drivers' seat were replaced the same time as the pinion seal. Result is that since the local guys told me to "drive it back to MD for the Pionion seal 15 minutes after telling me that "it could not be driven" I walked off the lot saying I was not going to move the car.

    Daimler/Chrysler's 800 number was good at listening but provided no answers.

    The purchasing dealership found that the local dealership was lying about me, my salesman who spoke to their service department after declared they would no longer work on my car (indeed they were so incompetent, my husband and I do not understand how they keep their precious 4 STAR rating) and have said so in writing, with no answer from Daimler Chrysler.

    Additionally, the purchasing dealership got the 4 Star co-ordinator and district manager in their area involved - after finding that my dealer in NC's district manager had also washed his hands of "this" car. They went through what I understand to be a "customer service" unit in Orlando, FL, who had the car removed from the local dealer's lot and towed 55 miles away from my home.

    These were the folks who found the hole in the catalytic converter and these are the folks to whom I now add 110 miles round trip off of my extended warranty, (for oil changes & tire rotations of 4WD)which of course sometimes necessitates returning after necessary parts are needed or "Star on-call" service of Daimler Chrysler puts them on hold for hours at a time. We once had to take the car back - 100 miles just to be told that after replacing the "gas cap" to fix a code on my dash reading "check gas cap" that after it was fixed, then the "check engine" light appeared and the dealer and "Star on-call" not giving them an answer that day - we drove back to find the fix was.... you're going to love this.......... to remove the battery terminals for ten minutes and then put them back, i.e., like re-booting your computer by removing its energy source.

    Now, it's 14 months old, with 20,000 miles, was serviced last Thursday, but my complaint of the driver's seatbelt winder not working will necessitate another 110 miles off of my warranty.

    It appears to us -- if we understand the Lemon Laws -- we only fall under "federal" laws and... again... if we understand them... it's supposed to be the "same" problem happening over and over again. Thus, we feel we do not come under any "lemon" laws, just a poorly built vehicle!

    I love my jeep's handling and what I use it for, but I do not need this extra stress and I feel it unfair that these 110 mile trips are eating into my expensive warranty.

    I feel like they owe me a new car... any suggestions?
    Since I'm responding to an 8 month old posting... I am of course curious what your problems were and how your case came out? I hope with a happy ending for you, the consumer, a win for more of us! Magothy.

    Feeling like I'm in "podunk" in East Carolina.
  • Wow, you must be a mechanic. I'm new to the forum and I appreciate your help, it sounds like it may be over my head (I'm a woman that is not mechanically inclined) but I will try this afternoon. :)
    Any hints on better gas milage? I do undertand that a V-8 all time 4wd will not get great mileage but I'm averaging 13.7. Most of my driving is innercity (very little highway) and when I do get on the highway I try not to exceed 60 mi per hr because I can average around 22 miles to the gallon then. I bought a fancey air filter when I bought the car cause I was told that it would help, I don't think it has. I've also heard of a certain type of spark plug that may help to gain a mile or two per gallon. This I havn't yet done. Any suggestions? I can't afford to drive it anymore with gas prices so high, but I love my GJC!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    You may have other remedies besides lemon law; here's an example from your former state:

    spoon2000, "Audi A6" #35, 28 Jul 2000 2:26 pm

    Maybe call your local attorney general or consumer protection agency and see if they have any recommendations.

    Steve, Host
  • I did not see a reply to this posting. I'm having the exact same problem though. Let me know if you find anything out. Based on some conversations with some mechanic friends they feel it could be a faulty throttle sensor.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    You probably saw it but this is a reply to a reply that may help: aurora141g, "Jeep Grand Cherokee: Problems & Solutions" #1896, 10 Sep 2005 4:27 pm

    tidester, host
  • I bought this 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee. My heater on passenger side went out and blows cold air. The Chrysler dealership said it would cost me $750 to fix it. That was in November. Since the start of December my Jeep shows a no key sign and when I start it a little while later, It starts, idles up then down and dies. It will not stay running and The Jeep seems to decide when it wants to run and stay running. I can run a few errands and it may or may not start. I was told it could not be fixed and they couldn't find the problem unless all keys won't work. They made me an extra key but it still does not want to run. I've only had this jeep for 5 mths. Help!!!
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    You may want to check your constant velocity joints on the axle shafts, if the boots are not torn that doesn't mean the cv joints are not bad. While your there, check your bearing hub assembly(where the axle shaft tone ring is), and make sure the bearings are in good condition. The cv joint is non-rebuildable, and you will have to replace the entire axle(s) if this is indeed your problem.(about $125/side)
    On the the other side of this problem... you may want to check your diff, to see if there is any play in the gear nest. I just replaced my front gear nest and carrier bearings about 2 weeks ago.(about $150)
    If you do go to a dealer for a diagnostic, and they are 100% sure what the problem is.. please post it, and i will try to help you out as to fixing your problem.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • No, not a mechanic. I bought a shop manual on CD from ebay. It cost about $100.00 but already it has paid for itself. As for your in town driving mileage, you are getting about the best you can. Remember easy starts from a complete stop. And keep that oil changed every 3500 miles. Inner city driving really gets the oil dirty. Also with your tires cold make sure your tire pressure is good. All four and check that spare too. Maximum tire pressure is printed on each tire. Have the fluid checked in your transaxle. That's the box under your jeep where front and back axles come together. Any where oil or lubrication is used can become dirty. And dirty oil, etc., will slow down parts that rely on running smooth.
    I use Bosch platinum plugs. But no plug is any good to you if your wires are bad. If you can when it's dark outside do this: The darker the better. With the engine compartment open (you may have to take the underhood bulb out)(push in and twist), start the vehicle. Have a flashlight in hand so you can judge the location of the fan blades. Stay away from them!! Let your eyes adjust to the dark. What you are looking for as you stare at the area the plug wires are located, is for Christmas treeing. This is where the spark of one wire will jump from one wire to another or to the engine block itself. Nothing major. But only slightly. This kind of thing really steals gas mileage. This is one of the many causes of your engine running a little rough at idle. Oil saturation also weakens the insulation of the wires. Best thing to do if you can is to replace the wires if you have not. And the plugs. Change the distributor cap and rotor too. All together you are looking at about $120 to $150 at PepBoys. PepBoys has the least expensive air breathers that I have been able to find for both my JGC.
    And finally, do not forget the PVC valve. This will be located on you 97's passenger side valve cover. Toward the back of the cover. From the carberator you may see a rubber hose leading to this cover. Attached to the hose is a plastic device pressed into a rubber grommet fitted on the valve cover. Carefully pull up on this plastic devise. You may have to wiggle it from side to side a little. The jeep is not to be running when you do this.
    Now grasp the plastic devise with one hand and hold onto the hose with the other. With a twisting motion on the devise, work it out of the hose. If you shake the devise you will hear a rattling noise inside. Always best to replace and not just clean the PCV.
    As far a the speed you are driving on the freeway. Let er rip. Getting that V-8 to normal operating temp will help burn out that inner city carbon that may have built up inside the piston cylinders. I drive upwards of 80mph in my 97 and close to 90 when I can get away with it in my 2002. Freeway mileage is pretty consistant. Got 23.1 mpg
    on my last 320 mile trip to Fresno and back. Travelled 80 to 85 all the way. :shades:
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