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Jeep Grand Cherokee Maintenance and Repair



  • Thanks for the reply.I jacked her up again tonight and everything looks aok and sounds ok when I spun the wheel.Did the other side too.Took wheels off,brakes are good and do not have a pad floating as far as I can tell.It is not a metal to metal sound.Can run in circles full left and right no clunking or grinding but can not notice the sound at that speed.Have to drive about 500 yrds before squeaking starts.Taking it to work tomorrow to let the two techs I work with listen before I finaly go to dealer.If I take it to a dealer and they are 100% sure,I will post if it is the fix.
  • In my 95 Grand Cherokee the automatic transmission does not want to shift into third gear. It starts and takes off fine goes through first and second gear but in second gear it almost always either stays in second gear to about 4500 rpm and then roughly shifts into third or it seems to get stuck in neutral and just rev the engine without any gaining any speed just increasing rpms. I was wondering if anyone knows anything about a problem similar to this or hopefully a non-rebuild fix for it. The whole shift sequence other than from second to third works just fine. Thanks in advance for any help that can be provided.
  • It started with the dash ABS and safety brake lights coming and staying on...sometimes. Then the odometeter nubers started to flicker and the radio turned off and on. Feels like the beginning of the curse of the ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS. Dealer took it and cleaned off some connections and removed some water from somewhere it shouldn't have been and I made it to Fla from GA no problems at Christmas, then it started to happen again yesterday. Bought the car less than a year ago. Have 70,000 miles and up til this, no problems at all. Have been careful and diligent with all regular servicing. Waiting to hear what the dealer is going to say next and will post what those genuiuses say before I let them spend my money this time. Oh yea, at 50 mph there is a slight shimmy in the steering wheel. Trusted non dealer mechanic says to live with it another 2000 miles before I get brakes fixed which will probably get shimmy fixed. Had two new front tires installed with balanceing and it help the shimmy at little but not completely. Mechanic says brake job will clear up problem. Sounds reasonable so I will deal with it for a while but shimmy is moot point with the electrical nightmare looming ne c'est pas? What's your prognosis on cost to find and fix this sort of electrical problem? Thanks
  • I had the same problems I bought a handy CHILTON repair manual and learned that the Cam Shaft Position sensor, and crank shaft position sensor controls the idle and other functions that have to do with the vehicle idle and shifting. I have the 2000 JGCL V8 4x4 4.7L, I elected to change the Cam shaft sensor first and that did the trick. You can find this part at orielys for $30, and on my vehicle the sensor is located on the bottom/passenger side of the engine it's a little hard to get too but nothing that a typically hands on person can't do. But for the record these Jeeps are :lemon: 's
  • I'm driving down the road and my ABS and brake lights come on, then the go off... this happens again, I'm thinking that the alternator, or battery I replaced last week might be no good so I kick on the A/C to see what happens, the vehicle jults hard and the guages start going crazy, including the speedometer I'm actually travelling about 30mph but its bouncing rapidly between 60-120mph I turn the a/c off and it quits, back on again to see what happens and it does the same thing all over only this time when I turn the A/C off the guages keep going. I pull off the road and shut the vehicle off to try and reset ~I don't know what~ but when I try to start it again I've got nothing at all everything is 'no battery' type of dead.
    I appreciate any comments on this, or if you have a possible solution please don't hesitate.
    RE: 2000 JGCL V8 4X4 4.7L 87,000mi.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    Sometimes new doesn't always mean good. :( Fortunately, there is an easy way to check to see if your alternator is bad; while the engine is running, take the negative battery post wire off and if the vehicle dies, then the alternator is bad. I cannot see the battery being bad, because the vehicle does indeed start/turnover. However, when you do swap out the atlernator, have the part store check your battery as well, just to be on the safe side.

    Your post certainly sounds as the classic bad alternator/even if it is new story. We all experience this at least once in our lives, but it is a very good lesson to learn for everyday use: new doesn't always mean good.
    With a fully charged battery the alternator should be charging somewhere between 12.4 volts, and 15 volts.

    I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
  • bernr1bernr1 Posts: 8
    I don't know if anyone responded to you in regards to this. I have a 2000 JGC, two years in a row I had a similar problem but the check engine light came on. I took it to Autozone. The first year the output speed sensor went bad and the second year the input speed sensor blew. It didn't cost much to replace them (maybe $20-$30 per sensor)but at the time I had no idea where they were located and paid twice as much to have a transmission shop do the work.
  • bernr1bernr1 Posts: 8
    I believe I am having electrical problems but am not sure. This may be similar to the problems from the post -2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee - poltergeist or curse?

    Several months ago my automatic head lights started turning my lights on all the time. So even during the day time my headlights were on. A Short time later my headlights started turning themselves on when the vehicle was off. They would flicker on for a few minutes and then shut off. It would repeat this a few times before stopping and then it would start up again a little while later. I solved the problem by taking them off auto and turning the lights off. This only occurs when the lights are in auto. Any suggestions. I bought a manual on the jeep but didn't find anything that would help.

    My second problem is my driver side bum heater isn't working. :cry: Luckily I live in Colorado Springs and it's not too detrimental thanks to a mild January. I think it might be a fuse but again haven't come across anything in my manual that might help point me in the right direction. Passenger side heated seat working fine.
  • cleethcleeth Posts: 2
    I am new to this forum. But have a serious question. Has anyone experienced this: when at a stop light, I press the gas to go I have a WHINE that is coming from the engine ad or tranny, however If I take my foot off the accelerator. and reapply it the noise goes away. WHY is it making this noise???
  • My 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee keeps turning on the fan when the car is not started (at random times) and runs until it drains the battery. Then I have to get it jumped. I have taken it to the dealer 4 times and they replaced the fan but it still keeps happening. It seems to occur a couple of times car wash or hard rain. They also mentioned the temp gauge. I am don't know what to do at this point because they want to keep it until it happens again which is not an option.
  • trickstertrickster Posts: 113
    There should be 2 temp sensors(one controls the fan) located on your engine. Locate the 1 that controls your fan by un-plugging one, and if the fan turns on (while the engine is relativly cold) then that is the temp sensor that you want to replace. If that does not fix the problem, then replace your relay(cooling fan relay) located in your Power Distribution Center(located in the engine compartment).
  • Thanks, I'll give it a shot...
  • So the only difference for you is the check engine light came on and it wouldn't shift into a gear (into 3rd from 2nd) correctly it would just increase in rpms and eventually shift once the rpms got high enough or it seemingly "just felt like shifting". If thats it thats great news and I found in my chilton's where the speed sensors are. Did you find your problem when someone put a code reader on your computer and found that or how did you know that was what was needed to be changed?
  • You may already know this but that "no key" sign is actually part of the anti-theft system. It will come on when a key without a dealer or factory programmed micro-chip is used to start the vehicle. I own a 2000 Grand and the spare key I had made at Wal-Mart (without a chip in it of course) would start the vehicle, but the vehicle would then shut off after a few seconds, while the "no key" light continued flashing. In order to get a spare with a chip in it, I had to show proof of ownership at the local Jeep dealer, then they would program a spare key for me, in exchange for a ridiculous amount of money. It sounds to me like you have some kind of weird computer malfunction going on in the anti-theft system. If your local dealer is worth anything, they would re-program your keys and even try a new one for you, because it could also have something to do with your key's micro-chip malfunctioning. I hope this helps you out a little!
  • bernr1bernr1 Posts: 8
    Correct. My jeep was having a hard time shifting between gears. It would drive fine as long as I was above or below a certain speed. My engine light came on as soon as the problem started occuring and I had someone (Autozone) put a code reader on it which told me what the problem was.

    Hopefully it's all that is wrong with your Jeep too. Good Luck.
  • I bought a 2000 Grand Cherokee back in August '05 and have since found a couple of "rigged fixes" that possibly helped it to bring more money at auction. The one that is really stumping me is that my "check engine" light is on showing a "3-4 shift malfunction" on the code-reader. I called the local Jeep dealer and of course they told me it would be $75 just to hook it up to the computer, even if nothing ends up being wrong. On top of that, they would need to keep it for a few days b/c they were behind on tranny work. I know that the guy knew of a couple possible things that it could be, but instead he wanted to get smart with me. I was thinking that it could possibly be a shift solenoid problem, but I would hate to buy a new one and that not be the problem. Then I would be stuck with two good solenoids. The fluid level is fine, and I don't think just changing the fluid and filter will fix the problem. Anyone else had this problem? It seems that some of these problems end up being model specific. By the way it has the 4.0 inline six. I would greatly appreciate a little insight. Thanks. Also, b/c of this, it will shift into overdrive, but not when it should. It takes it a while, even after you are running 65-70mph and have completely let off the gas.
  • bernr1bernr1 Posts: 8
    Did you ever get this problem fixed? I have had a similar problem and it only occurs when the lights are left in automatic. The only difference is my lights have only flashed (and same clicking noise) when the car is off. See posts about possesed head lights. This problem has occured off and on for about a year.
  • bernr1bernr1 Posts: 8
    There is another similiar post on here about shifting rough between gears. I took my car to Autozone when my check engine light came on. This happened two years in a row. Year one it was the output speed sensor, year two it was the input speed sensor. It's a realitively cheap fix if you can do the work yourself.
  • desh2desh2 Posts: 1
    what year was your GC and how much did it cost u,my GC is having the same problems after i had my tires rotated.
  • I appreciate that info. I had read the posting of that before, but I didn't know if that was my problem or not. I'll check into that and let you know how that goes. Thanks!
  • cleethcleeth Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 JGC, when I am idle and have to press the accelerator to go, I have a slight whine. Took it to the dealer and rode w/the tech. He didn't know what the sound was. Now they are telling me it's the valve body and it would $850 to fix. Has anyone experienced this or heard of a valve body and would it cause the whining? ANY HELP would be wonderful. :sick:
  • My 2000 JCL just start saying I need the servoce the car. I took the car for service and it still says perform service. The shop I took it to were not able to reset the computer to stop saying that.Any ideas anyone??? I really do not want to take it to the dealer because I don't want them to over price me for something I could have done myself.
  • blkhemiblkhemi Posts: 1,717
    If the "perform service" light is on continuously, then what you have to do is hit the select button until you reach "miles till service". It should read 0. Then at this point push and hold the reset button. This should reset it to what mileage you specified for the computer to remember.
  • tan28tan28 Posts: 4
    I don't have an answer to the light problem but my 2001 JGC LMT had the drivers side seat heater go when it was about about 2 years old. The dealer did fix it under warranty. I asked what it would have cost me (if it happens again) they said approx. $ 300 -can't remember if that is with or plus labor. Ouch-just to keep your bum warm..but I live in PA, so it is nice to have..especially when my heater is having problems so I have no heat on the passenger side, but with the nice help of people here, I am figuring it out.
  • tan28tan28 Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 JGC LMT, Anniversary ED. It has chrome rims, or should I say chrome dipped?! I wonder if anyone else has had this problem. The chrome is FLAKING off of the rims, it looks like it was painted on. It's ugly. I did email Jeep when it was 3 years old, and they basically said, too bad. You know nothing with tires is covered. My tires kept going flat, so I took it to 2 different tires places and my Jeep dealer, who changed the stem each time, and charged me of course-all within a month. I kept thinking "Why can't any of these people find the real cause of why my tire is going flat. Finally someone at the tire places got the air to hold. When it didn't go flat in a few days, I went back to see what he had done differently than the first time I was there, he said he took the tire off the rim and cleaned the rim real good. (By the way this was a little into winter) We figured out that the SALT from the snow plows was most likely "eating" my rims and causing the tire to leak. So, basically I need to keep the rims clean in the winter. The next winter after that I had a different tire get low and I cleaned it well and filled it up.. didn't have problems again. This year I bought all new tires-so well see how long until these act up. Also, somebody took the small caps out of the middle of the rims and broke them (plastic clips held them in) then apparently used clear silicone to put them back in. Nice huh? From what I've been told, there was no reason for anyone to take them off.
  • Aside from cold start transmission slipping problems I now have malfunctioning speedometer and tachometer guages on my 1999 JGC Ltd. Recently stopped for a few minutes to get gas, then when re-starting it was hardly turning over before the engine caught. After it did start I suddendly had no tach or speedo. Is this a fuse or some sort of relay module? The battery charging shows it's within the correct range, yet re-starting after running a while the engine just barley turns over. Any help gratefully accepted.
  • mcgmacmcgmac Posts: 4
    Many thanks for the reply. I found an alternative shop willing to do it for less than half the price. They also diagnosed faulty battery which contributed to the problem. All said, the work and parts were significantly less than at the Dealer.

    Bottom line - be sure to double check prices from San Francisco Jeep Dealers!!! I can recommend another Jeep specific shop if anyone is looking.
  • Thanks alot I'll try getting to an Autozone tomorrow for the code reader!
  • Hello,went to my dealer and from the time I dropped it off till they finally called me,tells me they had a hard time finding it too.I suspect they fixed it before calling me with the problem.I was told it was the left front hub.I told them to go ahead and fix it.I picked the Jeep up but there was no old part in it.Shop was closed.So I went up first thing in the morning and got my old hub no problem.Checked it out at work,it was smooth spinning but had some in and out play between the bolt on flange and the hub itself.Do not know if that is supposed to be there.But also there was no weight on hub when checking it out at my shop.Bottom line,noise is gone.It is hard for me to trust anybody working on my stuff,but my current vehicles were bought at this dealership and I will buy another one from them.Paid too much,I know.Hub was $237.00
    found them on the internet for $99.00.But I was chasing a ghost, and I think I came out ahead.I could have started replacing stuff,and if it was still there,more of my money and time.This way if it was still there or comes back, under warr.Total was about $430.I wanted to ask you why people are having so much trouble with brakes.2001 JGC bought in 2003.I'm sure they did a brake job before seling.Put about 14,000 miles on her,includes a 1500 mile trip with a 3000 lb boat and trailer,three adults gear and two dogs.Most of driving done in city,stop and go.Pads still 3/8 thick.Rotors fine.
    Have a great weekend.
  • need to know the size transmission pan for jeep grand cherokee 1997 6 cylinder rust hole dose anyone know where to order one
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