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Comments
-juice
Lower unsprung weight will improve suspension response time, meaning the tires should stay planted to the ground better; the tires should track the road surface more efficiently.
rgds,
-wdb
The shocks stop the springs from bouding and rebounding. So they'll be doing a lot less of that over things like potholes.
-juice
I said for every 5 lbs. of unsprung weight you can remove from each corner of the car (ok, that's 20 lbs. total--and even that amount is hard to achieve, believe me), your car will behave as though you've reduced over-all curb weight by 50-80 lbs.-- with emphasis on "will behave as though".
And I believe that to be a reasonable and accurate statement, depending on the vehicle.
In other words, your car will accelerate, brake, and pretty much handle "as if" that amount of chassis weight has been removed (even though in reality it's only 20 lbs.)
When it comes to tires, I agree 100% you've got to look at the grip and handling qualities, not just the weight. Otherwise, tirerack would just post the weight of all the tires out there and no other info, and we'd all just buy the lightest ones! :-)
In my original post, I was expressing dismay that the Conti's actually weighed 3 lbs. more than what I'd been told (12 lbs. more total). So that meant the tire that I thought so highly of (for it's grip, handling, etc.) was going to be adding more unsprung weight to my vehicle, which I think we've all just agreed, is never a good thing--especially for a great handling car like the Rex.
Same driver, same conditions, same tires and same launch.
-Dennis
Colin--I've thought about driving with only 1/4 tank. Gas weighs what--6.5 lbs. per gallon?--so driving with 10 gallons less in there saves you 65 lbs. Plus throw out the spare and jack--another 35 lbs.--that's an easy 100 lb. total savings right there. Headrests? How much do headrests weigh? Hey, this weight problem is easier than I thought . . . ;-)
http://www.vtec.net/articles/view-article?article_id=3464
-Dave
-Colin
Also, since I'm doing the fluid changes myself, I'd like to put synthetic oil in. Any recommendations on type? Is it too soon to switch? With synthetic in there, I'm planning on changing the oil every 5K miles.
Brian
-juice
Cheers,
-wdb
Mobil uses a better base stock than many of the other brands which use a cheaper "hydro-cracked" technology, but then don't pass the savings along to their customers. Mobil 1 costs the same as the others, but with Mobil you're getting the real deal.
Redline 5W30 is also superb protection for the Rex, maybe even better than Mobil 1, but it's more expensive and you have to wait til 3000 miles to put it in. I'm switching to Redline for my Cobb Stage 1 ECU upgrade. (If you upgrade your engine later on for more power, then Redline is better protection, but for right now, I'd use the Mobil 1.)
A good synthetic is absolutely crucial in a highly-stressed turbo engine to protect those turbo bearings from coking and overheating. Don't let anyone talk you out of using it! Dino may be fine for a regular engine, but the WRX needs synthetic protection.
BTW, after making the switch, I'd still run it pretty easy the next thousand miles or so to let the engine break in a little more with the new oil.
You can go 5K intervals (some guys even do 6K), but again, with a turbo, it's best to change it a little sooner, and so I do mine every 4 months or every 3-4K. Cheap insurance.
To those concerned: Please check your email for an explanation. Also, feel free to email me if you have any questions/comments regarding this matter. Please do not address this issue here. Further posts on this matter will be automatically deleted.
And let's get back to the subject of the Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon. Thanks!
Revka
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Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
* FumotoValve.com sells a slick little valve device for $20 that makes the whole job easier and much less messy. It also eliminates the need for the crush washers, since this replaces the drain plug and stays screwed on.
* AllSubaru.com sells 6-packs of OEM filters for a good price, ~$25 IIRC.
* Walmart sells Mobil1 in 5qt jugs for ~$19.
* From your local auto parts store, look for a combination funnel and container for draining/transporting the used oil.
* You'll also need a funnel for pouring the new oil.
* I needed a filter wrench to loosen the first filter I removed.
Also get a big piece of cardboard and some old towels to deal with the inevitable drips and spills.
Brian
There is yet another thread about cracked Rota Attacks on nasioc. In the same thread, someone posted about cracked Rota SDR's.
Just more info to consider.
-Dennis
The SSR's are made with a special process called semi-solid forging-- very strong and very light (but mucho big bucks). The Rota's are a cast wheel, so wouldn't be quite as strong.
-Colin
If I were you I would 1) wait and see how good a job the dealer does and 2) ask for an even better price should you still want to buy it. 43 miles is a tad high. You probably have some negotiating leverage there.
Ken
- With my WRX, have gone 7K miles with Mobile 0W30 with no problems what-so-ever. Oil still looked pretty good, FYI. Subaru, recommends 7,500 miles.
-Colin
How noticable is the gel and dim mode? I did install it myself but all the electrical works. And if I took it to the dealer to say it dont work under warranty, do they know it did not come with the car or that a Subaru dealer did not install it? Help.
Mark
When it's on, there is a green light that is illuminated. If you take it to a different dealer than the one you bought your car from, they *might* not be able to tell.
-Dennis
Anything obstructing the sensor in the front of the mirror?
Actually, if the light sensor in the front detects daylight, the dimmer won't activate. Have you tried placing a masking tape over the front sensor and shine a bright light on the mirror side? The mirror should dim.
-Dave
Someone hit me, so it's not even my fault. Ugh. Imagine having to track them down again.
If they do paintless dent removal, then fine.
-juice
The price is DIRT cheap, so they already took any discounts into account.
-juice
Mark
- Is there a warrentee on the paint job? Many places that repaint cars and car parts have good warrentees on the paint. I thought the standard was 3 years, but could be very wrong since it has been 6 years since I had my old car repainted (no longer have it).
- Also, you have a '93 Miata? I am sure you already know this, but figured I would state this for the heck of it.
If I am correct the 90-94 model years of many cars had paint problems due to new standards on the fume control of painting (went from spray-on to the baking on of paint). If I remember correctly, many car manufacturers had problems with the new process that caused premature pealing.
Ladnek
-Dennis
No displacement, for replacement or whatever the phrase is. :-)
-Dennis
-Dave
Bottom line appears to be, WRX with a/c on and off the boost gets real doggy and sluggish. Mine certainly does.
Answer - keep the turbo spooled up as much as possible. I've just started driving mine harder when the a'c's on. Keep the Rs up, work that throttle. Unless I'm in a mellow mood, then I just sit there and wait for her to respond. Hum a couple of bars of something.
Good time of year to be driving the Miata, huh juice?
I am sure my wife won't care for it, but hey, she rarely drives or even rides with me in it. I can't wait to break it in some more this weekend as I am sure the sound will mellow out some as the muffler packing loosens up.
I chose the Borla mainly because I only had to pay $80 for it. I traded some airline miles for ebay anything points and really only had to pay for shipping plus $25 of the cost. It was interesting to see how rusty the stock system is already with less than a year on it. At least I won't have to worry about the Borla for a million miles.
John
But...it's clearly the repaint that is peeling. Looks like they didn't do adequate surface prep, it's not sticking like it should. I will call them and ask about their warranty.
-juice
Notice any change other than the sound?
Don
I do mine at every 4 months, 4K mi. because this is a highly-stressed turbo engine at 113hp/liter (especially the way I drive ;-)). Since doing a Cobb reflash it's now 130hp/liter, so I just feel better playing it on the safe side.
Like I said, it's cheap insurance--$60 for 3 jugs at W-Mart plus 3 Subie filters is only $75 a year--that's not going to put anyone out on the street. A small price to pay to run clean syn in your machine, IMO. (However, have since switched over to Redline 5W30--a little pricier, but some extra protection too.)
M1 is good enough you can get away with every 7.5K--that's what they did in their million mile test on the BMW, but personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable with it unless it was mostly highway miles (much easier on the engine).
It's Mobil 0W-20--haven't seen it out in jugs yet, but it should be good stuff!
According to Borla, I could see a 5% - 15% improvement in HP and TQ, but from the various tuner mags, my guess is it probably somewhere around +10 HP and TQ improvement.
My wife says the car sounds like a piece of something or other now. I think it sounds like a hog at idle and accelerating up to speed on the highway it just sounds awesome.
John
a) Tire pressure is currently at 40!! What is optimum?
b) Manual says I should keep within 4000 rpm for first 1000 miles..does that mean even if I am doing 80 and below 4000 rpm then it's ok?
c) There was a burning smell from my engine when I stopped the car...could not see any oil leaks..but its getting better each time...is it just because its new or is there a problem?
d) Dealer tried to push additional warranty...should I buy it? If yes, what should I buy, how much should I pay and where?
sorry for all these questions guys but I am a newbie...
This car is a beauty...now I believe the hype...btw, it's a 2003 white wagon.