Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon

18081838586115

Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It's not moving 3 lbs up and down, it's stopping those 3 lbs from moving up and down. Less unsprung weight means less inertia for the suspension to overcome.

    -juice
  • francophilefrancophile Member Posts: 667
    Yes the suspension has to move (and stop from moving) the unsprung weight. But guess what, the suspension also has to move (and stop from moving) the other two tons of the vehicle as well :-) The only way of reducing the work done by the suspension by 20% is to reduce total vehicle weight by that amount.

    Lower unsprung weight will improve suspension response time, meaning the tires should stay planted to the ground better; the tires should track the road surface more efficiently.

    rgds,
    -wdb
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Well, the springs absorb the shock. The shocks stop the springing action, so you don't float up and down like an 80s Buick.

    The shocks stop the springs from bouding and rebounding. So they'll be doing a lot less of that over things like potholes.

    -juice
  • rexaroorexaroo Member Posts: 174
    I never said that improving unsprung weight will take 300-400 lbs. off the vehicle. (very good post otherwise)
     
    I said for every 5 lbs. of unsprung weight you can remove from each corner of the car (ok, that's 20 lbs. total--and even that amount is hard to achieve, believe me), your car will behave as though you've reduced over-all curb weight by 50-80 lbs.-- with emphasis on "will behave as though".
    And I believe that to be a reasonable and accurate statement, depending on the vehicle.

    In other words, your car will accelerate, brake, and pretty much handle "as if" that amount of chassis weight has been removed (even though in reality it's only 20 lbs.)

    When it comes to tires, I agree 100% you've got to look at the grip and handling qualities, not just the weight. Otherwise, tirerack would just post the weight of all the tires out there and no other info, and we'd all just buy the lightest ones! :-)

    In my original post, I was expressing dismay that the Conti's actually weighed 3 lbs. more than what I'd been told (12 lbs. more total). So that meant the tire that I thought so highly of (for it's grip, handling, etc.) was going to be adding more unsprung weight to my vehicle, which I think we've all just agreed, is never a good thing--especially for a great handling car like the Rex.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Now I want to see acceleration times on a WRX with stock wheels vs. 17" same as stock weight vs. 17" 3-4 lbs. heavier than stock. :-)
    Same driver, same conditions, same tires and same launch.

    -Dennis
  • rexaroorexaroo Member Posts: 174
    less unsprung weight is easier on shocks and springs, less clomp over bumps, easier on brakes, better acceleration, etc. I think we all intuitively understand the advantages there.

    Colin--I've thought about driving with only 1/4 tank. Gas weighs what--6.5 lbs. per gallon?--so driving with 10 gallons less in there saves you 65 lbs. Plus throw out the spare and jack--another 35 lbs.--that's an easy 100 lb. total savings right there. Headrests? How much do headrests weigh? Hey, this weight problem is easier than I thought . . . ;-)
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    I think I've linked this site before :)

    http://www.vtec.net/articles/view-article?article_id=3464

    -Dave
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Dead link, Dave.

    -Colin
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    With 1100 miles on my 04 WRX, I was thinking that I might change the oil myself...is there anything different or weird about this engine that I should know before crawling under the car? My Civic was relatively easy to change the oil, but I never crawled under my Outback (dealer took care of all maintenance on that one).

    Also, since I'm doing the fluid changes myself, I'd like to put synthetic oil in. Any recommendations on type? Is it too soon to switch? With synthetic in there, I'm planning on changing the oil every 5K miles.

    Brian
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Don't forget a 17mm crush washer for the drain plug. And when you remove the oil filter, wipe the area off and make sure the old rubber gasket was not left behind.

    -juice
  • francophilefrancophile Member Posts: 667
    Okay, I can buy those numbers; 20 lbs. total unsprung weight reduction ~= 50-80 lbs. total vehicle weight reduction, a 2.5:1 to 4:1 ratio. I misread your post and saw a 10:1 ratio being touted, which is what set off my BS detector :-)

    Cheers,
    -wdb
  • rexaroorexaroo Member Posts: 174
    Brian--yes, now is a great time to switch over, and the synthetic I would recommend most is Mobil 1 5W30. I changed mine at 640 miles and it's at 15K now and runs like a top.

    Mobil uses a better base stock than many of the other brands which use a cheaper "hydro-cracked" technology, but then don't pass the savings along to their customers. Mobil 1 costs the same as the others, but with Mobil you're getting the real deal.

    Redline 5W30 is also superb protection for the Rex, maybe even better than Mobil 1, but it's more expensive and you have to wait til 3000 miles to put it in. I'm switching to Redline for my Cobb Stage 1 ECU upgrade. (If you upgrade your engine later on for more power, then Redline is better protection, but for right now, I'd use the Mobil 1.)

    A good synthetic is absolutely crucial in a highly-stressed turbo engine to protect those turbo bearings from coking and overheating. Don't let anyone talk you out of using it! Dino may be fine for a regular engine, but the WRX needs synthetic protection.

    BTW, after making the switch, I'd still run it pretty easy the next thousand miles or so to let the engine break in a little more with the new oil.
    You can go 5K intervals (some guys even do 6K), but again, with a turbo, it's best to change it a little sooner, and so I do mine every 4 months or every 3-4K. Cheap insurance.
  • revkarevka Member Posts: 1,750
    because it was not within our Town Hall guidelines. In addition, other posts in direct response to this post were also removed for the sake of continuity. Hope you understand.

    To those concerned: Please check your email for an explanation. Also, feel free to email me if you have any questions/comments regarding this matter. Please do not address this issue here. Further posts on this matter will be automatically deleted.

    And let's get back to the subject of the Subaru Impreza WRX Wagon. Thanks!

    Revka
    Host
    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • prayerforprayerfor Member Posts: 161
    I also change my own oil with Mobil1 5W30. Hopefully these will be helpful hints for things you'll need:

    * FumotoValve.com sells a slick little valve device for $20 that makes the whole job easier and much less messy. It also eliminates the need for the crush washers, since this replaces the drain plug and stays screwed on.
    * AllSubaru.com sells 6-packs of OEM filters for a good price, ~$25 IIRC.
    * Walmart sells Mobil1 in 5qt jugs for ~$19.
    * From your local auto parts store, look for a combination funnel and container for draining/transporting the used oil.
    * You'll also need a funnel for pouring the new oil.
    * I needed a filter wrench to loosen the first filter I removed.

    Also get a big piece of cardboard and some old towels to deal with the inevitable drips and spills.
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    I'll try and get that oil changed this weekend...I've got to take it out of town for work this week, so I'll be at 1500 miles by the weekend. Good time to change to Mobil 1.

    Brian
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    For those considering light wheels, you should really spend money on a good quailty wheel. I think someone mentioned SSR as an example.

    There is yet another thread about cracked Rota Attacks on nasioc. In the same thread, someone posted about cracked Rota SDR's.
    Just more info to consider.

    -Dennis
  • rexaroorexaroo Member Posts: 174
    that's a shame about the Rota's. They are a nice looking wheel at a great price.

    The SSR's are made with a special process called semi-solid forging-- very strong and very light (but mucho big bucks). The Rota's are a cast wheel, so wouldn't be quite as strong.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    I've found that more often than not, you get what you pay for. :)

    -Colin
  • msdannyjmsdannyj Member Posts: 22
    found a 5 inch dent (a straight line) in the bottom of front driver door...the dealer said he will fix it by saturday and then I can take delivery...should i still take delivery of this car? only one in the lot and am getting a good price...only 43 miles in the odo...any opinions?
  • sopecreeksopecreek Member Posts: 203
    Only if the dent has been taken into account in your good price. (Think about resale value and depreciation.) Otherwise, you are better off not taking delivery.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    If the dent can be repaired by one of those paintless dent repair places, then it shouldn't be a problem.

    If I were you I would 1) wait and see how good a job the dealer does and 2) ask for an even better price should you still want to buy it. 43 miles is a tad high. You probably have some negotiating leverage there.

    Ken
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    "You can go 5K intervals (some guys even do 6K), but again, with a turbo, it's best to change it a little sooner, and so I do mine every 4 months or every 3-4K. Cheap insurance."

    - With my WRX, have gone 7K miles with Mobile 0W30 with no problems what-so-ever. Oil still looked pretty good, FYI. Subaru, recommends 7,500 miles.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Sounds perfectly reasonably to me Kevin on Mobil1.

    -Colin
  • gottawrxgottawrx Member Posts: 18
    Hey Brian you fellow Sactonian. Question is has anyones radio gone up in volume for no reason. Happened once with me. and I got a dimming mirror from subaruparts and I dont think the mirror dims. I turn it on and off at night and really dont notice anything.

    How noticable is the gel and dim mode? I did install it myself but all the electrical works. And if I took it to the dealer to say it dont work under warranty, do they know it did not come with the car or that a Subaru dealer did not install it? Help.

    Mark
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    The auto-dim is pretty noticeable when headlights hit it from behind. It changes the color of them to a sort of dull blue-ish.

    When it's on, there is a green light that is illuminated. If you take it to a different dealer than the one you bought your car from, they *might* not be able to tell.

    -Dennis
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Mark-
    Anything obstructing the sensor in the front of the mirror?

    Actually, if the light sensor in the front detects daylight, the dimmer won't activate. Have you tried placing a masking tape over the front sensor and shine a bright light on the mirror side? The mirror should dim.

    -Dave
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I would not accept a new car if the door had to be repainted. Repaints peel much sooner. In fact my Miata's lower door sill is peeling right now, and I have to go see if the body shop will re-do it since it's been more than a year.

    Someone hit me, so it's not even my fault. Ugh. Imagine having to track them down again.

    If they do paintless dent removal, then fine.

    -juice
  • msdannyjmsdannyj Member Posts: 22
    the paint was not broken in the dent..I paid $21000 for the WRX wagon w/auto..they are fixing it and the dealer says all they have to do is knock the door out from inside..the size of dent is 4 inch length and less than half an inch wide and very shallow...
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    If it's not creased, it's easy to fix, and does not have to be painted.

    The price is DIRT cheap, so they already took any discounts into account.

    -juice
  • gottawrxgottawrx Member Posts: 18
    Thanks Dave and Dennis. I am not sure if the mirror or maybe me is the dim one. I will try the tape and light thing.

    Mark
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    "I would not accept a new car if the door had to be repainted. Repaints peel much sooner. In fact my Miata's lower door sill is peeling right now, and I have to go see if the body shop will re-do it since it's been more than a year."

    - Is there a warrentee on the paint job? Many places that repaint cars and car parts have good warrentees on the paint. I thought the standard was 3 years, but could be very wrong since it has been 6 years since I had my old car repainted (no longer have it).

    - Also, you have a '93 Miata? I am sure you already know this, but figured I would state this for the heck of it.
          If I am correct the 90-94 model years of many cars had paint problems due to new standards on the fume control of painting (went from spray-on to the baking on of paint). If I remember correctly, many car manufacturers had problems with the new process that caused premature pealing.
  • ladnekladnek Member Posts: 8
    My auto dimming mirror takes like 10 seconds to completely darken after somebody gets behind me at night. Is that normal? The dealer said it is working fine, but I'm not happy with getting blinded all the time. If this is normal I'll be putting a regular mirror back on.

    Ladnek
  • redscoobyredscooby Member Posts: 55
    I started using the a/c more this last week, and I'm finding the rex more difficult to drive smoothly with the a/c on. When I dip the clutch to shift up, the rpms drop very quickly making it tough to release the clutch at the optimum engine speed for a smooth upshift. Also, when backing off on the gas, the engine braking seems stronger which can make for some less-than-smooth driving especially in 1st & 2nd when in traffic. Is this normal? The rex is my first car that has both MT and a/c, so maybe I just need to adjust my driving style when using the a/c. Only have 1700 miles on it so far (not sure if this is a factor).
  • gottawrxgottawrx Member Posts: 18
    Redsooby- I noticed the same with mine. I was thinking its the compressor kicking on and off. The car in general feels noticably slower.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Same here.

    -Dennis
  • axp696axp696 Member Posts: 90
    Same with every car in existence with air conditioning. ;-)
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Although, I think it's less noticeable in larger engines (like the 2.5L).
    No displacement, for replacement or whatever the phrase is. :-)

    -Dennis
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    ;-)

    -Dave
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    No misplacement, for replacement.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    I use A/C quite often in the mountains to help hold a safe speed decending mountain passes. It's very effective. Curiously, in the 97 Suberban at work (350 in^3 - auto) the A/C on-off transistion is very noticable (vehicle becomes sluggish), but in my 2001 Pathfinder (3.5 L engine - auto) I don't even notice it. I think the engine fan(s) also have a lot to do with this. Also, the Nissan manual said it is more energy efficient to use A/C than to have windows open. I proved this to be correct decending above mountain passes (windows open were even better helping to hold safe speeds). Who would have thought?
  • dill6dill6 Member Posts: 120
    i just wrote a post about this myself over on the other WRX board and now I find lots of them on this topic. Well, its HOT now, right?

    Bottom line appears to be, WRX with a/c on and off the boost gets real doggy and sluggish. Mine certainly does.

    Answer - keep the turbo spooled up as much as possible. I've just started driving mine harder when the a'c's on. Keep the Rs up, work that throttle. Unless I'm in a mellow mood, then I just sit there and wait for her to respond. Hum a couple of bars of something.

    Good time of year to be driving the Miata, huh juice?
  • jmgregory5jmgregory5 Member Posts: 48
    I just finished installing a new Borla catback on my 03 wrx wagon. All I have to say is wow! It really sounds like a completely different car now. I am astonished to hear what sounds like a v8 from both inside and outside the car. It is certainly louder than stock, around town but seems to quiet down as the speed increases.

    I am sure my wife won't care for it, but hey, she rarely drives or even rides with me in it. I can't wait to break it in some more this weekend as I am sure the sound will mellow out some as the muffler packing loosens up.

    I chose the Borla mainly because I only had to pay $80 for it. I traded some airline miles for ebay anything points and really only had to pay for shipping plus $25 of the cost. It was interesting to see how rusty the stock system is already with less than a year on it. At least I won't have to worry about the Borla for a million miles.

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My Miata is Crystal White, and coincidentally that's the color that peels most.

    But...it's clearly the repaint that is peeling. Looks like they didn't do adequate surface prep, it's not sticking like it should. I will call them and ask about their warranty.

    -juice
  • redscoobyredscooby Member Posts: 55
    Thanks for the replies. I feel better knowing that this is 'normal' and not a problem. Have been leaving the a/c off and the windows down at low speeds, and then a/c on and windows up once I'm at cruising speed.
  • andmoonandmoon Member Posts: 320
    jmgregory5,
    Notice any change other than the sound?
    Don
  • rexaroorexaroo Member Posts: 174
    - With my WRX, have gone 7K miles with Mobile 0W30 with no problems what-so-ever. Oil still looked pretty good, FYI. Subaru, recommends 7,500 miles."

    I do mine at every 4 months, 4K mi. because this is a highly-stressed turbo engine at 113hp/liter (especially the way I drive ;-)). Since doing a Cobb reflash it's now 130hp/liter, so I just feel better playing it on the safe side.

    Like I said, it's cheap insurance--$60 for 3 jugs at W-Mart plus 3 Subie filters is only $75 a year--that's not going to put anyone out on the street. A small price to pay to run clean syn in your machine, IMO. (However, have since switched over to Redline 5W30--a little pricier, but some extra protection too.)

    M1 is good enough you can get away with every 7.5K--that's what they did in their million mile test on the BMW, but personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable with it unless it was mostly highway miles (much easier on the engine).
  • rexaroorexaroo Member Posts: 174
    Just thought I'd mention, Mobil has just come out with a new oil designed expressly for smaller displacement 4 and 6 cyl. + turbo engines with closer engine tolerances like our Rexes.

    It's Mobil 0W-20--haven't seen it out in jugs yet, but it should be good stuff! =)
  • jmgregory5jmgregory5 Member Posts: 48
    Don, I am not sure if I am noticing any real change in performance. The car does seem to idle smoother and power delivery might be a little more linear, but without a dyno test to confirm I have no positive proof.

    According to Borla, I could see a 5% - 15% improvement in HP and TQ, but from the various tuner mags, my guess is it probably somewhere around +10 HP and TQ improvement.

    My wife says the car sounds like a piece of something or other now. I think it sounds like a hog at idle and accelerating up to speed on the highway it just sounds awesome.

    John
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    I don't seem to have any problems with the boost and the a/c on but then it hasn't been over 100deg yet!
  • msdannyjmsdannyj Member Posts: 22
    finally, i drove my car out of the lot...they did an excellent job fixing the small dent..no repainting or creases...some questions for the experts..

    a) Tire pressure is currently at 40!! What is optimum?

    b) Manual says I should keep within 4000 rpm for first 1000 miles..does that mean even if I am doing 80 and below 4000 rpm then it's ok?

    c) There was a burning smell from my engine when I stopped the car...could not see any oil leaks..but its getting better each time...is it just because its new or is there a problem?

    d) Dealer tried to push additional warranty...should I buy it? If yes, what should I buy, how much should I pay and where?

    sorry for all these questions guys but I am a newbie...

    This car is a beauty...now I believe the hype...btw, it's a 2003 white wagon.
This discussion has been closed.

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.