Honda CR-V Dead Battery Issues

I've been having multiple occasions of a dead battery usually in the morning. The vehicle has had the most recent software update covered by a service bulletin that addressed battery charging rates. The vehicle has been to one dealer twice and another dealer three times but each one finds no problems with the battery, no problems with the alternator, and no evidence of a parasytic short. No doors are being left open and no interior light is being left on. Yesterday the battery sounded sluggish when I started up the engine so I put it on a charger for 4 hours and drove the vehicle around for at least another two hours. This morning --- another dead battery.
Any ideas?
Comments
I would have the battery load tested. Sometimes dealers just give your car the "sunshine treatment" (leave it parked outside until you come pick it up), especially if you are combining the complaint with other services. A good charging system can't charge a bad battery very well, and a bad battery can't hold a charge for very long. Parasitic drains are measured in milliamps, so you'd have to know what the dealer finds acceptable. 50 ma? Not bad. 400 ma? Not good.
Based on their report---it makes no sense. you can't have a good battery, charging system working to spec and no parasitic drain and still have the battery go dead.
The only way that could happen is if something in the truck turned itself on long after you parked it. Not likely.
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http://shop.odysseybattery.com/p/34r-pc1500t
I have this battery in my 2 SUVs and a Minivan. They are the best batteries money can buy.
That could all change - Johnson Controls is in talks to buy EnerSys, supposedly to gain EnerSys's tech in solar batteries. (jsonline.com)
Looks like Exide has survived their recent (second) bankruptcy reorganization and is still competing with Johnson. Crazy business to try to keep a scorecard on. Reading seems to have big players in the battery field.
The dealer replaced the type 51R 400 CCA original with a new 500 CCA version. It cranks much faster now.
Other considerations:
There was a TSB for 2012 & early 2013(?) for a charging logic programming change. Apparently the alternator output was being throttled back before the battery was properly charged.
Many others have gone to a different group size battery (Honda Odyssey's battery suitable for a V6 and more power options). The tray and hood space appear to be sufficient to accommodate this.
And it's not just CCA's. Reserve capacity (ability to handle starting after low leakage drains the battery) is also cut by the small physical size. If you need substantially higher reserve, go bigger.
Try that Group 51 battery.
From the OdysseyBattery.com web site.
Year: 2013
Make: Honda
Model: CR-V
Engine: 2.4 Liters - CID L4
Model #: PC925LMJT
BCI #: 51R
CCA Cold Start Performance per S.A.E J537 test method = 330
Reserve capacity (minutes) = 48
Amazon price = $188
I think I'll keep the 500 CCA battery Honda gifted me!
Tiny batteries, like disappear spare tires, are a part of cost cutting and weight saving. The cars have big trays, but they only give you a battery suited to make it thru the warranty period. Same with crappy OEM tires. We have the same gripe on the Subaru board, and many have simply gone to a larger group size. A common problem.
I'm good with your pitch to spend more and go with an AGM battery. But if you are going to spend nearly 2 bills for a battery, go for one with more than 330 CCA. And you'll likely only get there if you are also willing to consider upsizing.
I replaced it with Odyssey AGM battery. Manufacturers are cost cutting on cheap batteries , tires and no spares tires.What else are they skimping on ?
Don't ask.... You probably don't want to know!
It's not uncommon for a bunch of stuff to be powered down over a period of time. Headlight timers, power windows, radio, etc., may all have an activity period after you turn the engine off. But by 20 minutes or so, most stuff other than the ECU & Security should be off, and the remaining draw can be 100ma or more. At certain times OBDII tests, like the Evaporative Emissions tank pressure leakdown test will run, and that probably draws an amp or two. But 3 amps continuous? You need to find that.
With a volt-ohm meter attached and using the amp scale, a drain of no more than 50 milliamps is acceptable.
Every time I take it to the dealer for service, and it has been fairly often. I complain about the lights seriously dimming every time the AC kicks in. Only when the battery was failing in other cars, did I see this happening. I wonder if this has something to do with battery failure.
Comments please
Honda recommends locking your car even if it's in the garage. I call this BS.
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A parasitic draw test AND/OR a voltage drop test should do it.
We are now on our 4th CRV and have had zero troubles with any of them. I will say that when one of our batteries hits the five year mark, it's gone! Maybe they would have lasted another year but why mess with it? I like to replace batteries on MY terms and not in some dark rainy parking lot.
Oh, I hope you can find the perfect car out there!
I would THINK that after three years and NINE jump starts you would buck up and buy a battery!
Car batteries usually are good for around five years. this means some will last three years and others can (and do) last seven or eight years. It sounds like you're on the short side of the five years!
Has anyone had a similar experience and did they have any success with Honda?
I'm basically at the three year mark (coming up in Feb), so it sounds like I just may be at the bottom range of these seemingly crappy batteries, so I'm going to try a new battery soon and report back if my problems stop.
So basically, make sure you document what exactly you do before the battery dies so that they can reproduce in the shop!