Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Honda CR-V Dead Battery Issues

baldy95307baldy95307 Posts: 9
edited June 2014 in Honda

I've been having multiple occasions of a dead battery usually in the morning. The vehicle has had the most recent software update covered by a service bulletin that addressed battery charging rates. The vehicle has been to one dealer twice and another dealer three times but each one finds no problems with the battery, no problems with the alternator, and no evidence of a parasytic short. No doors are being left open and no interior light is being left on. Yesterday the battery sounded sluggish when I started up the engine so I put it on a charger for 4 hours and drove the vehicle around for at least another two hours. This morning --- another dead battery.

Any ideas?

«1

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,041

    I would have the battery load tested. Sometimes dealers just give your car the "sunshine treatment" (leave it parked outside until you come pick it up), especially if you are combining the complaint with other services. A good charging system can't charge a bad battery very well, and a bad battery can't hold a charge for very long. Parasitic drains are measured in milliamps, so you'd have to know what the dealer finds acceptable. 50 ma? Not bad. 400 ma? Not good.

    Based on their report---it makes no sense. you can't have a good battery, charging system working to spec and no parasitic drain and still have the battery go dead.

    The only way that could happen is if something in the truck turned itself on long after you parked it. Not likely.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • basquebasque Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem. 2014 CR-V EX-L with Nav with 3,800 miles, purchased new 15 months ago. Garaged most of the time. Three times has not started since purchased, including today in a car wash!!! Tests at dealership came up fine. Computer upgraded today to adjust for my driving habits (local only, not driven every day). One driver, lights on when driven, locked when parked. Any hope the upgrade will ensure it starts every time? Friend has identical model with no problems but drives it more.
  • My 2014 CR-V EX-L would not start today either I have 5200 miles on it and live in Connecticut it was -1 this morning AAA cam and jumped it and said they have seen many Honda's that are brand new doing the same because of the tiny battery with only 410 cold cranking amps. Mine is going in for a battery replacement this Saturday to a 500+ CCA battery as a Honda Tech update.
  • My 2012 CRV would not start three times in the last month. Twice community Honda said nothing was wrong everything tested good. Finally today after my insistence that they not tell me nothing was wrong again, they found that a post was leaking and replaced the battery. I was told that the battery that comes with the car is only guaranteed for 36,000 miles where is the one sold by the dealer is guaranteed for 100,000. Honda must've miscalculated when it would fail as it failed and 31,000 miles. Shame on them. I was a loyal owner. Not anymore
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 68,222
    suepc60 said:

    My 2012 CRV would not start three times in the last month. Twice community Honda said nothing was wrong everything tested good. Finally today after my insistence that they not tell me nothing was wrong again, they found that a post was leaking and replaced the battery. I was told that the battery that comes with the car is only guaranteed for 36,000 miles where is the one sold by the dealer is guaranteed for 100,000. Honda must've miscalculated when it would fail as it failed and 31,000 miles. Shame on them. I was a loyal owner. Not anymore

    I'm sure it's frustrating, but if you make your car choices based on one bad battery or one bad interaction with the service department.. next time, you might end up with a really crappy car, but with a great battery.

    MODERATOR

    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,742
    My exact feelings! Take your ball and go home over a battery?
  • I may have finally fixed my 2014 Honda CRV battery issue (fingers crossed). I got tired of my local dealerships not helping with this issue and went to an independent mechanic. He replaced the AC relay switch (less that $20). While he wasn't 100% sure this was the issue, I figured for the price, I'd try it. Well, it's been a few weeks and I've not have one dead battery event. BTW - I've got a battery buddy that has been my savior during this very frustrating time.
  • carboy21carboy21 Posts: 760
    edited October 2015
    kyfdx said:

    suepc60 said:

    My 2012 CRV would not start three times in the last month. Twice community Honda said nothing was wrong everything tested good. Finally today after my insistence that they not tell me nothing was wrong again, they found that a post was leaking and replaced the battery. I was told that the battery that comes with the car is only guaranteed for 36,000 miles where is the one sold by the dealer is guaranteed for 100,000. Honda must've miscalculated when it would fail as it failed and 31,000 miles. Shame on them. I was a loyal owner. Not anymore

    I'm sure it's frustrating, but if you make your car choices based on one bad battery or one bad interaction with the service department.. next time, you might end up with a really crappy car, but with a great battery.
    I live in PA where temps go down to -10F every winter . After I buy a new car I check the battery CCA and if it is less then 500 , I promptly replace it with 850 CCA sealed battery instead of the crappy low quality unsealed batteries many car makers give as OEM.

    http://shop.odysseybattery.com/p/34r-pc1500t

    I have this battery in my 2 SUVs and a Minivan. They are the best batteries money can buy.



  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    edited October 2015
    Looks like they are now being made by EnerSys (apparently Optima made Odyssey batteries at one time). Odyssey reportedly made DieHards for Sears back in 2012 and may still do so (or EnerSys did - hard to tell)..

    That could all change - Johnson Controls is in talks to buy EnerSys, supposedly to gain EnerSys's tech in solar batteries. (jsonline.com)

    Looks like Exide has survived their recent (second) bankruptcy reorganization and is still competing with Johnson. Crazy business to try to keep a scorecard on. Reading seems to have big players in the battery field.
  • carboy21carboy21 Posts: 760
    stever said:

    Looks like they are now being made by EnerSys (apparently Optima made Odyssey batteries at one time). Odyssey reportedly made DieHards for Sears back in 2012 and may still do so (or EnerSys did - hard to tell)..

    That could all change - Johnson Controls is in talks to buy EnerSys, supposedly to gain EnerSys's tech in solar batteries. (jsonline.com)

    Looks like Exide has survived their recent (second) bankruptcy reorganization and is still competing with Johnson. Crazy business to try to keep a scorecard on. Reading seems to have big players in the battery field.

    Battery industry has become consolidated like the beer industry. Anhauser Bush-InBev swallowing all the other major beer makers like Coors and now trying to swallow Sab-Miller. Johnson Controls will swallow all the major battery makers and rest of the small producers will be making batteries like craft beer :open_mouth:
  • I have a 2009 CRV & have changed the battery every winter. Have taken it back to Honda and they gave me the "driving habit" answer, which is garbage. I had just resigned to the new battery per year until this year. The girl that checked the battery charge also did a battery drain check and she found that I have a 3 amp drain when my car and all accessories are turned off. I am now looking for someone to trace this down. I'll keep you posted. 
  • carboy21carboy21 Posts: 760
    Batteries should last minimum 3-4 years. Some current leaking in your CR-V.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,041
    3 amps is equivalent to something like leaving your instrument lights on, or dome light on. It's not a huge draw but it'll wear down a battery fast enough.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

    Share Your Vehicle Reviews Here

  • I had to get a new battery every year. There are no signs of anything turned on. The only thing that is strange to me is that the anti-theft light blinks every 2 seconds, on other vehicles I see it blinking much slower. That must be a drain over a years time.
  • Both my parents and I bought 2, 2013 Honda CR-V and my father has had the battery go dead 3 times and today was my turn! Drove two places this morning, car on and off fine then drove final leg to work, parked the car and worked all day. Came out to go home and door locks wouldn't work (my first clue there was a problem). Nothing worked, no lights, no click even when key was turned. Once I got a good jump it ran fine all the way home. Car is on 2.5 yrs old and has less than 36,000 miles, My parents car probably has less than 20,000. Whats going on with Honda??
  • I feel for you. I just resigned to putting a new battery into the car every winter. It saves me the headache of carrying a jumper and freezing in the cold to jump it when the temp is below 20. I still think it has to do with everything that runs when you have the car turned off. Take a look at the anti-theft light, it blinks like it's keeping time to disco music, I don't see that in other cars. I also hear something in the dash making noise even when the car is off. Too much electronic stuff running all the time.
  • carboy21carboy21 Posts: 760
    duckie60 said:

    I feel for you. I just resigned to putting a new battery into the car every winter. It saves me the headache of carrying a jumper and freezing in the cold to jump it when the temp is below 20. I still think it has to do with everything that runs when you have the car turned off. Take a look at the anti-theft light, it blinks like it's keeping time to disco music, I don't see that in other cars. I also hear something in the dash making noise even when the car is off. Too much electronic stuff running all the time.

    It is normal for the anti-theft lights to blink , it does in both my cars every 2 secs. It does not drain my battery. Something else is the problem in CRV.
  • I have a similar problem with battery dying after a day or two of recharging in my 2004 CRV. Had it looked at, replaced battery, same thing, heard same story from dealer as mentioned by others earlier. I did a lot of reading in forums and came across posts with people solving this issue by replacing the A/C compressor clutch relay. Apparently, when it starts to fail it get stuck closed and engages the compressor which drains the battery. In the CR-V, this is located in the engine control unit box. I am trying this theory out, so I will let everyone know how it goes in a couple of days or so.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,780
    Hey guys. New to the CR-V side, but not to Edmunds. On the subject of batteries.... We just picked up an off lease 2013 for our daughter. Early turn-in at 2.5 years. And of course we immediately had battery issues. I could start the car, but if you spent any time at all on accessory prior to trying, it wouldn't crank. Insufficient reserve capacity.

    The dealer replaced the type 51R 400 CCA original with a new 500 CCA version. It cranks much faster now.

    Other considerations:

    There was a TSB for 2012 & early 2013(?) for a charging logic programming change. Apparently the alternator output was being throttled back before the battery was properly charged.

    Many others have gone to a different group size battery (Honda Odyssey's battery suitable for a V6 and more power options). The tray and hood space appear to be sufficient to accommodate this.
  • carboy21carboy21 Posts: 760
    fibber2 said:

    Hey guys. New to the CR-V side, but not to Edmunds. On the subject of batteries.... We just picked up an off lease 2013 for our daughter. Early turn-in at 2.5 years. And of course we immediately had battery issues. I could start the car, but if you spent any time at all on accessory prior to trying, it wouldn't crank. Insufficient reserve capacity.

    The dealer replaced the type 51R 400 CCA original with a new 500 CCA version. It cranks much faster now.

    Other considerations:

    There was a TSB for 2012 & early 2013(?) for a charging logic programming change. Apparently the alternator output was being throttled back before the battery was properly charged.

    Many others have gone to a different group size battery (Honda Odyssey's battery suitable for a V6 and more power options). The tray and hood space appear to be sufficient to accommodate this.

    Rather then group size, replace with a higher CCA rating. 700 CCA or higher in winter prone states and 500 CCA or up in warm states.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,780
    The problem with going much above 500 CCA is the physical size of that Group 51R battery case. It's cramped in there.... To get more amps you need to change chemistry and plate surface area. Doing so in that small case compromises long term reliability. You need a certain silt area at the bottom for decomposed materials, space between plates to keep warpage or dendrite growth from inducing shorts, etc. Even VLRA types like AGMs (glass mats) are challenged when the case is this small.

    And it's not just CCA's. Reserve capacity (ability to handle starting after low leakage drains the battery) is also cut by the small physical size. If you need substantially higher reserve, go bigger.
  • carboy21carboy21 Posts: 760
    edited January 2016
    fibber2 said:

    The problem with going much above 500 CCA is the physical size of that Group 51R battery case. It's cramped in there.... To get more amps you need to change chemistry and plate surface area. Doing so in that small case compromises long term reliability. You need a certain silt area at the bottom for decomposed materials, space between plates to keep warpage or dendrite growth from inducing shorts, etc. Even VLRA types like AGMs (glass mats) are challenged when the case is this small.

    And it's not just CCA's. Reserve capacity (ability to handle starting after low leakage drains the battery) is also cut by the small physical size. If you need substantially higher reserve, go bigger.




    Try that Group 51 battery.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,780
    Help me understand what I'm missing here....
    From the OdysseyBattery.com web site.

    Year: 2013
    Make: Honda
    Model: CR-V
    Engine: 2.4 Liters - CID L4
    Model #: PC925LMJT
    BCI #: 51R

    CCA Cold Start Performance per S.A.E J537 test method = 330
    Reserve capacity (minutes) = 48

    Amazon price = $188

    I think I'll keep the 500 CCA battery Honda gifted me!


  • carboy21carboy21 Posts: 760
    But the Honda batteries are turning out to be duds even if they are 500 CCA
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,780
    edited January 2016
    You might be right, but remember that people that have problems come to these boards to vent. We haven't heard from the other 300,000 people that bought a CR-V each of the last half dozen years.

    Tiny batteries, like disappear spare tires, are a part of cost cutting and weight saving. The cars have big trays, but they only give you a battery suited to make it thru the warranty period. Same with crappy OEM tires. We have the same gripe on the Subaru board, and many have simply gone to a larger group size. A common problem.

    I'm good with your pitch to spend more and go with an AGM battery. But if you are going to spend nearly 2 bills for a battery, go for one with more than 330 CCA. And you'll likely only get there if you are also willing to consider upsizing.
  • What about the constant 3 amp drain on the battery even when the car is off and the keys are out ?
  • carboy21carboy21 Posts: 760
    Forester I have came with a crappy lead acid battery which you have to top of with distilled water and it leaked and corroded the battery tray.. Is this 1970s ??

    I replaced it with Odyssey AGM battery. Manufacturers are cost cutting on cheap batteries , tires and no spares tires.What else are they skimping on ?
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,780
    "What else are they skimping on?"

    Don't ask.... You probably don't want to know!
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,780
    duckie60 said:

    What about the constant 3 amp drain on the battery even when the car is off and the keys are out ?

    A constant 3 amp drain? That really doesn't sound right at all. Any idea how she came to that figure? Immediately after shutdown, or did she wait 20 minutes for the system to enter it's quiescent state?

    It's not uncommon for a bunch of stuff to be powered down over a period of time. Headlight timers, power windows, radio, etc., may all have an activity period after you turn the engine off. But by 20 minutes or so, most stuff other than the ECU & Security should be off, and the remaining draw can be 100ma or more. At certain times OBDII tests, like the Evaporative Emissions tank pressure leakdown test will run, and that probably draws an amp or two. But 3 amps continuous? You need to find that.
  • We did not leave the tester on that long. Maybe 5 minutes. 
«1
Sign In or Register to comment.