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self oil change



  • alex18talex18t Posts: 117
    will have those little gaskets for the drain plug?
  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    They have generic ones. If you have a [non-permissible content removed] car or some of the "Jeep" products you need to go to the dealer for the crushable ones. They tell you to replace 'em every time. I replace them every few times. Just inspect the surface of the gasket to make sure it's O.K. GM vehicles don't require new plug gaskets. (At least the ones I've seem)
  • haspelbeinhaspelbein Posts: 227
    Sometimes the crushable gaskets come with the filter. (e.g. Purolator for German canister type filters) Make sure to look in the filter box before you buy an extra gasket.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,814
    As I recall, most of those old cars did have oil filters. I'm kinda surprised that a Buick, being a high line car didn't.

    I know they were an option on Chevys back then.
  • bgkannebgkanne Posts: 25
    I've had Hondas and other Japanese and American cars. To solve the hassle of the drain plug gaskets and the drain plugs themselves, just get a Fumoto Engineering oil drain valve. They work great and save a lot of hassles. I've used them for at least 15 years; never had a problem with them. Check their website, but be sure to get the thread diameter and pitch on your car's drain plug; sometimes their application information is incorrect, though I found exhanges to be no hassle.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    I have the valves on two cars, I agree, time saver and work great. however, they do seem to leave an extra two ounces or so of oil in the pan due to the shape/flow pattern
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    I didn't mean to sound like a jerk, but being a younger guy, I took offense to some of your comments. Here are some newer cars that I find a real pain to change the oil filters on:

    1. Infiniti Q45 (really, really bad)
    2. Toyota MR2 Turbo or Supercharged
    3. FWD previous generation Buick Regal 3.8L
    4. All Nissan Pathfinders
    5. Lexus RX300/Toyota Highlander
    6. First Generation Nissan Maximas
    7. Ford Ranger 4x4 3.0L
    8. Previous Generation Toyota 4runner
    9. Chevy Cavalier/Pontiac Sunfire 2.2L w/auto
    10. Older Acura Legends with canister filter (leak prone)
    I am sure I forgot a couple too. By the way, I have never changed oil on a fifties Hemi, theres not too many around, and if they were, I doubt they would bring them to a lube shop. I'll take your word for it.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    If you have a car with a difficult oil filter, it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a little dot on the filter with a permanent marker before you have someone else change the oil to make sure that they acually change the oil filter instead of wiping it off to make it look new. You never know when someone is feeling lazy. I have even seen dealerships guilty of this. I have seen people come in with a dealership reminder sticker and they mentioned that they had it done at the dealership last time, yet it still had our brand of oil filter on it.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,043
    I'm not sure when exactly oil filters became standard on most cars, but I have a friend who used to own a 1955 DeSoto Coronado, and it had something called an oil bath. I think somehow it pumped the oil up and ran it through the air cleaner element or something weird like that.

    In '58, DeSoto did away with the Hemi, and went to the familiar Chrysler big-block, in 350 and 361 configurations, which I believe had a normal spin-on type filter.

    Didn't Chevy use those obnoxious drop-in filters until 1967 or so?

    I have seen some old car ads bragging about a standard oil filter back in the late 30's/early 40's, so I'd guess they were still a novelty back then.

  • john319john319 Posts: 37
    The RX300 has basically the same engine as an ES300 which I own and change the oil myself and found the filter extremely easy to remove. Now the 87 300ZX I used to own, that was a pain in th a$$.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,814
    No offense taken. It's been a lot of years since I worked a lube rack.

    Last year in Reno, I toured the Harrah's old car museum. They had a 1954 Dodge with the hemi engine. Since the hood was up, I looked down and spotted that miserable little can stuck next to the frame on the right side of the engine.

    I told my buddies what a B**** that was to change.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,814
    The term "oil bath" refers to the air cleaner and has nothing to do with filtering the oil.

    These were used up until the late fifties, early sixties.

    The gas station where I worked as a kid had a lot of older customers with cars to match.

    These oil bath air filters sat on top of the carburator they came apart to clean. They usually had wire mesh inside and held about a pint or so of oil.

    And they weren't difficult to clean but talk about a filthy mess! I once dropped one under the hood of this fussy guy's pristine '56 Ford.

    When it hit the engine, it came apart and spilled FILTHY oil EVERYWHERE!!

    Of course the customer, a hot headed Italian guy was standing right there.....not a good thing!
  • dpwestlakedpwestlake Posts: 207
    R model Macks used an oil bath air cleaner up to the mid '70s. It held about a gallon of oil and hung on the right side of the cab in front of the passenger door.

    Nasty things to clean.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    True the engine in your Camry, uh...ES300 is similiar to the RX300 but notice how the ES300/Camry didn't make my list. That is because the RX300 is much more difficult to change the filter on than the Camry V6/ES300 even though the RX300 is loosely based on the Camry. The space you have to work with is much tighter, and if you change it when the engine is warm like you are supposed to, it is very easy to get burned (much easier to get burned than the ES300). I knew I forgot a couple cars, and you are right though, those old 300Zs (84'-89'?) are not fun at all (passenger side, underneath the exhaust manifold, similiar to a pathfinder, but worse).
  • ballfire8888ballfire8888 Posts: 131
    Would an oil change on the new 2001 Pathfinder with the 3.5 L 240 HP engine be as difficult as the older Pathys?

    Also, any experience with the 1999 Chevy Tracker or Suzuki Vitara?

  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    It soaked up a quart of oil and fit under the valve cover so as to quiet the tappet noise on the pre war Chevy 6's. The oil filter was a cannister with a cartridge and the air cleaner was the oil bath type.
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    I have always said once engineers finish designing a car and a prototype is built that each should be required on their day off to find the necessary tools, change certain things on the prototype, and, after all have been changed, allowed to go home. My quick list includes things such as:

    1. Oil and filter
    2. Air filter
    3. Belt(s)
    4. Spark plugs
    5. Distributor cap and spark plug wires
    6. Starter
    7. Alternator and voltage regulator
    8. Headlight and tail light bulbs
    9. Instrument lighting bulbs
    10. Water pump
    11. Battery

    Anyone have any other ideas? Bet after a few years of this engineers would be much more thoughtful about where they put things, how they hang them, and how many different sized bolts and nuts they use--as well as changing the habit of combining metric and standard sizes on one vehicle.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    "Like how to get the filter out of a Ciera with a 3800 engine. Took one good mess of turning the oil filter over before I figured it out. Before starting, turn the wheels to the right all the way. Then, when you look in the right side wheel well, you can see this little plastic vent-like thing. Remove two small screws and you are looking at the oil filter. Don't even have to get under the car, just unscrew and remove through the wheel well."

    This may work for the Buicks, also. I do know changing the water pump on the '85 models was an absolute bear. Had to lift the engine. On the '87 the design was changed and it only took less than an hour.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    I don't know, I haven't done one of those. If the engine is based off of the old 3.3L, I would imagine that they would be the same unless Nissan was sick of hearing people and mechanics complain about them. The Chevy and Suzuki are fine. bmaige--I know exactly how you feel. I sometimes wonder what the engineers were smoking when they designed some of these cars (was there a crack epidemic at Nissan and other companies in the 80's?) It boggles my mind when I see these ridiculous designs that could have been made easier without much hassle to the engineers. I thought GM might have been on the right track because many of their cars are very easy, until I saw the new Cavalier/Sunfire 2.2L w/auto. Unless your forearm is very skinny, you WILL NOT be able to take the oil filter off without skinning your arm badly. I feel sorry for the people at GM dealers who have to do those every day. I wish I could sentence that engineer to change 100 of those filters (he/she would happily take the death sentence instead). jflemmons--the FWD regal 3.8L is different than the Ciera. On the regal, you can't even SEE the filter, you have to FEEL it.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,814
    They should make those engineers change a dozen of those filters before finalizing the design.

    And, tell me..I was once in a Quickie Lube and watched them change the oil on a MR-2. One guy stood under the car with a fire extingusher!

    Does the oil run right onto the hot manifold or something?

    Looks like a GREAT job for a DIYer!
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    The oil filter on those MR2s is surrounded by hot exhaust and yes there is a fire hazzard. Although rare because of oil's high flash point, I have seen a fire before on a honda because the oil drains directly onto the flex pipe. Go to a quicky lube when the are changing the oil on a 4 cyl honda accord and watch when they take the filter off, smoke comes barreling from under the hood and most customers have a heart attack when they see it for the first time. "you guys are going to start my car on fire!!!"
  • dhughes3dhughes3 Posts: 56
    Yes, many cars in the '50s had oil filters standard. I know for certain they were standard on MoPars at least as far back as 1950, and I think probably before that. GM, which always produced cars with a strange mixture of technological advances and prehistoric leftovers, didn't provide oil filters as standard on any Chevy 6's up until 1961, at least. I don't know about the V-8's or other GM car lines, but a company that still used splash lubrication (Chevy 6) until 1953 probably didn't spend the money to incorporate anything as advanced as an oil filter until they absolutely had to, so your memory about the Buick is not faulty.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,461
    How about VW. They didn't have filters at all on the bug, right?

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  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    My two Beetles 65 and 69 had an oil screen, no spin on filter. Screen was sort of useless. Dirt particle would have had to be large enough to choke a horse to be caught in the screen
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    Thats what I thought too when I first did an old VW bus. The screen seemed very useless and nothing was ever caught in it anyways so it didn't really filter anything. On the subject of MR2s, now that I think of it, those things are downright dangerous and potentially deadly to change oil on. The reason why that fella had a fire extinguisher is because the oil drains on a part of the exhaust that is very hot and sometimes so hot that it glows. Turbocharged cars' exhaust temperatures are much hotter than normal and when we did those we took the extra precaution of wearing a fire-proof burn sleeve and glove. The space you had to work with was very tight and if it did start on fire you couldn't remove your hand quick enough. If you didn't wear a burn sleeve, you'd better like skin grafts, not to mention the fact that it wasn't too far away from the fuel lines. Can you say Ka-Boom? It would probably be best to do those when they are cold, but you can't when it needs to be done in a "Jiffy".
  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    was, I believe 1500 miles. How about the lack of heat in the winter- ah- the good old days. Great car.
  • namfflownamfflow Posts: 202
    Newcar31 reminded me of a topic I always was perplexed about. Most knowledgeable people recomend doing oil changes when the engine is hot. Part of the reason is that the oil is running through the engine and is trapping a bunch of the crud so it can drain out.

    Logic to me would indicate that doing an oil change on a cold engine is better. Lets say you do it in your own driveway. You park the vehicle there in the evening. It sits and the oil drains down into the pan along with the crud. When you drain wouldn't more crud be removed as it has drained into the pan instead or being recirculated throughout the engine?

    Whats everyone's thought on this. Cold vs. Hot Oil Changes.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    I think the logic behind changing the oil when it is hot is that the oil is like water when it is hot and therefore drains much faster. On the other hand, if you go out into your garage and change the oil when it is cold and has had all night to drain back into the pan, it would seem that you would get all of the oil out also. If you live in a cold climate however, changing the oil when it is cold could take a long, long, time because sometimes the oil is the consistancy of molasses when it is cold (unless you use synthetic).
  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    You change the motor oil and filter when it is hot because that's when all the contaminants are well-mixed throughout the oil ... and when you drain the crankcase they leave as well instead of remaining behind somewhere after having settled out of the oil overnight.

    --- Bror Jace
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    That makes sense---kind of. I have always wondered about this also. When the oil is hot, that means that the engine has recently been running and therefore there is some oil still sitting in the upper half of the engine that will not get drained unless you leave the plug out overnight. This is illustrated by the fact that if you check the oil when it is cold, it will always read a little bit higher on the dipstick than if you check it when it is hot---because when it is cold almost ALL of the oil has found its way back to the oil pan.
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