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self oil change



  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    A great argument for synthetic oil and extending the drain intervals!
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    Thats exactly how I feel.
  • scooter62scooter62 Posts: 18
    Is the 5W-20 oil required by Honda available commercially? I havent found it yet.
  • sierrabuddsierrabudd Posts: 15
    Here is a thought.

    I did my own changes until I bought my 2001 GMC sierra.

    My dealer charges me 10 bucks to do an oil and lube if I suplly my own oil and filter. I go buy Mobil 1 and AC Delco Duraguard GOLD (the 8 - 9 dollar filter) and let them do it.

    No there is an official record of the oil being changed, I don't have to mess with old oil, and I get it lubed also.

    I am a little envious, because it is soo easy to change the filter!

    The hardest part for me was getting the car on the ramp.
  • curreycurrey Posts: 144
    If you mean synthetic 5W-20 the answer is yes, Amsoil ( sells it. As for dino oil, you should be able to find 5W-20 at wal-mart.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    WOW! great deal. I do hope you watch them put the oil in, the filter you can obviously check later but I put it past no dealer to use their own bulk oil and keep the Mobil 1. Hard to find a dealer that will do that (oil change with your oil) . I have that for parts with a private mechanic but oil changes at a dealer, very nice for $10.
  • dhughes3dhughes3 Posts: 56
    I have had a service station change my oil twice in the last 30 years, otherwise I've done it myself. In the first instance, they stripped my oil pan plug; luckily the pan threads themselves were OK. The second time, the oil filter was put on so tight it had to have a chisel applied at the base and be hammered off. That's why I do as many repairs & maintenances as possible. It seems every time I pay a "professional", he screws something up.
  • gotribe1gotribe1 Posts: 81
    My y2k Silverado does have a drain plug on the rear differential! I couldn't believe it myself. I paid the dealer to change it the first time and they took the cover off; seems they didn't know about the drain plug either. Thanks for the tip about the transmission drain plug.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,043
    ...because I've learned that I'm the only one I can really trust. Well, except for my local mechanic. But why drop my car off, have someone follow me to pick me up, and then drive me back, when I can just do it myself?

    I got suckered into taking my car to Firestone, tempted by their $10.00 oil changes. The thing that sold me was that the car I was driving at the time was a 1989 Gran Fury, which still needed periodic suspension lubrication. Well, before long, the price went up, and the real kicker was when the manager informed me "Look, we don't have the time to memorize the oil requirements for every car out there!" That just screams quality, doesn't it? This little argument came about because my Gran Fury requires 15W-40, which I told them the first time I took it in. Turns out they just dump 10W-30 in everything, whether it needs it or not. So, I have no way of knowing if they ever put the right stuff in my car at all, or just lied to me all along. I yeah, anyone want to lay odds on whether they were actually lubricating the chassis, either?

    Oh yeah, here's another classic. Back when I was in college, my late grandfather's '85 Silverado mostly sat around, so I'd drive it to school like once every two weeks or so. Well, my uncle had been taking it in to get the oil changed. One day, I went to start it up to go to school, and the dang thing sounded like a diesel! The oil light came on, like it's supposed to, but never went off. And the thing never did register any oil pressure. I shut it off after about 10 seconds or so. Checked the dipstick...bone dry. I filled it up myself, and then drove it into our garage to look under it. Yup, the drain plug was loose. There was also a nice slick spot on the grass where the truck had been parked. I'm sure the EPA loves me!

    Anyway, I could take it to my dealership, but why? It's 20 minutes down there, 20 minutes back, and I spill a lot less of it than they do. They also charge $27.00 to spill, -er, I mean, change the oil. Remember how just about every old RWD V-8 Mopar product would dump oil on the exhaust pipe when you changed the filter, and the car would smoke up until it burned off? My DeSoto does it, my Dart does it, and my Gran Fury does it. Well, that's how my Intrepid smelled the one time I let them change my oil (it was in for other work, as well).

    Anyway, it takes like 15-20 minutes to change my oil, and costs about $10.00. There's a recycling station less than 2 miles away. Maybe for some people, it's more worthwhile to have a professional change their oil. But in my case, it's proven for the most part to be a waste of time, money, and a potential threat to the well-being of my vehicles.

    And the idiotic thing about it is, I'm sorry, but an oil change is an oil change. You either do it right or you don't...there's no in between. So I don't buy the line about "you get what you pay for" by taking it to Firestone/All Tune and Lube/Jiffy Lube/etc versus the dealer.

  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    I change my own for all the reasons expressed above but put most concisely by "luphy."

    --- Bror Jace
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    It's easier now that I've sold the messiest car to change the oil on: '90 Mercury Sable with 3.0 V6. When the filter came off, oil would run down onto the starter and then onto the crossmember underneath the engine. And it would splash a lot also.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,814
    I STILL think it's a PITA but maybe it's my age showing or something. I still have my ramps, floor jack, drain pan and an assortment of filter wrenches if I get the hankering again. to you like changing the filter on that De Soto? Didn't we talk about that before?

    I think it's in a cannister mounted on the side of the engine, isn't it? those were a NIGHTMARE to change. They had an o ring that slipped out of place along with a couple of fiber washers that had to be just right or they would leak and you would have to start the whole miserable process all over again.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,043
    yep, we chatted about that before, and you're right, it's a real pain!

    The drain plug isn't too fact, I can actually slide under the car without even jacking it up to get to it!

    But that oil cannister...what a pain! Come to think of it, the last time I changed it, I had one of those rubber washers in the wrong place, and sure enough, it leaked, and I had to do it all over again!

    At least DeSoto went to a spin-on cannister type for 1958 when they phased out the Hemi. Didn't Chevy hang on to the drop-in type until '67 or so?

    And trust me, changing my oil is not something I look forward to. It's still a PITA, but it's just proven to be more of a PITA to have someone else do it!

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,814
    I can just picture a 19 year old kid looking at that cannister filter wondering what it is and how to get it off. As I recall, the bolt that went through it would hit the frame making it a REAL pain.

    Thankfully, when I was a kid working in a gas station there were few of these and I had my boss to bail me out.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    Like how to get the filter out of a Ciera with a 3800 engine. Took one good mess of turning the oil filter over before I figured it out. Before starting, turn the wheels to the right all the way. Then, when you look in the right side wheel well, you can see this little plastic vent-like thing. Remove two small screws and you are looking at the oil filter. Don't even have to get under the car, just unscrew and remove through the wheel well. And on the new GM trucks with the 6.0L engine: Put the drain pan right where you think it should be, then move it back about 6-10" to the rear. That sucker will drain six quarts of oil faster that anything I ever worked on!

  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,043
    ...a 1982 Cutlass Supreme with the 231 2-bbl. On older RWD applications, the oil fileter is right there up front, easy to get to just like on a Chrysler big-block V-8. Unfortunately, if I recall correctly, it would dump oil right on one of the suspension fittings when you took it off.

    I wonder if those cars had a tendency for that particular suspension fitting to deteriorate prematurely? Or, I guess if nothing else, at least that was one fitting that was guaranteed to be lubed!

    I guess it's a whole different story on a transversely mounted 3.8, though!

  • alex18talex18t Posts: 117
    you do an oil change does the car need to be level? all wheels jacked up or can just the front be on the jacks? what do you use as a drain pan?
  • bfredabfreda Posts: 3
    From what I've heard:

    1. Whether or not the car needs to be level depends on where the drain plug is. If the drain plug is in the rear corner of the pan, you can jack up just the front wheels. If it's in the middle or towards the front, then you need the car to be level. The only thing to pay attention to is: try and make sure all of the oil drains out of the car. If this can happen with just the front wheels jacked, you're set.

    2. I use whatever I have as a drain pan. Not a styrofoam cup.
  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    just make sure the lil runs to the drain plug. Usually you need to jack the car up a couple of inches to get the pan under it (unless its a SUV/4WD). Don't jack on the engine.

    Do yourself a huge-huge favor and go to K-Mart/Pep Boys, etc and buy a pan made by "Blitz" I got the 15qt one. It's nice and big and low. After you drain the oil this container has a pour spout to pour old oil in gallon jugs or take it directly to recycle place(Pep Boys, Autozone, Advance Auto Parts.)
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    Canister or Internal filters are nothing special, many new cars have them and IMO they are no more difficult than a regular spin on filter and in some cases they are easier. (BMW, Mbenz, VW, GM 2.5Ls etc use those kinds of filters.) Why would someone older know more about them (what is there to know?) than a 19 year old? Most Fords have had spin ons for a very, very long time.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,814
    I'm not too sure what you are talking about...?

    Ford has used spin on oil filters since 1957. They used cannisters before that.

    I suppose some imports may use cannisters today but I sure haven't seen one.

    And yes, I would LOVE to see a 19 year old tackle an oil filter on an old hemi Dodge! No clearance in which to work, nasty, filthy work and unless everything is lined up perfectly (unlikely) oil leaks all over when the car is started.
  • 98monte_ls98monte_ls Posts: 117
    I just tried to do an oil change on my mom's 2001 Alero 2.2. I drove up onto the ramps, but could not loosen the drain plug. tried every wrench. borrowed neighbor's tools too. Nothing worked.

    it didn't budge. The last oil change was done by the Dealer. I think they overtightened the nut. I think the oil pan is aluminum; it looks like aluminum. I know you're not supposed to over tighten nuts on aluminum parts!!! I told her to take it back to the dealer. They changed the oil. But I want to do it next time.

    Anybody else have trouble with tight drain plugs?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    The professional mechanics can get them too tight because the cars are on a lift and they can put their full body weight onto the wrench (not that they should).

    Many years ago, when I tried to loosen the bolt on my VW Rabbit, I had to use my foot against the wrench to take advantage of the stronger leg muscles. It worked.
  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    into it, its tough. Up on a ramp, I'm surprised you couldn get it. Don't laugh but maybe you turned it the wrong way. Use a socket and make sure you are turning the right way and then use a "breaker" bar- (longer handle) for more leverage. If all else fails there is something called "knocker" or "sluggging" wrenches. They are made to hammer the handle with a large ball peen hammer or small sledge. Of course us "knuckle draggers" use a regular combination wrench or breaker bar with a hammer (safety problem here). Impact with a hammer is the way to go. Good luck next time- don't feel bad. I had to do the same thing once on a subaru. I had them not make the plug as tight as they normally do and they put it in writing in case the plug came off. I then tightened it myself.
  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    I always use a torque wrench on drain plugs. 18 ft. lbs. is a good number.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    is a very, very long time in the auto world. Do you think older cars are unique because they may be a pain to change the oil filter on certain models? Well, you are wrong, because there are many, many new cars that are equally a pain and some of them are worse. No clearance, nasty filthy work is a part of many new cars. By the way, I would bet that when I was 19, I had changed the oil on about 1000 more cars than you have in your entire life. A persons age has nothing to do with it; if you changed oil for a living since you were 16 and did it all the way through college like I did, you wouldn't be saying these things.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    18 lbs is a good number for what? Not all cars require 18 lbs, cars have all kinds of torque requirements for the drain plugs. For instance, Hondas require 33 lbs and they have very soft metal in the oil pans.
  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    I can't argue that that torque is always the recommended one. But lets face it how many people use one to tighten a drain plug. I'm sure the Jiffy Lubes of the world don't. I can say for certain that this torque will not strip a drain plug and the drain plug will never fall off (or leak). How much better than that can you get?
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,814
    I don't think I said anywhere that some of the newer cars were any easier to change a filter on than some old ones.

    I think what I did say was some old cars, especially the model I mentioned were a nightmare.

    Sounds like you're the expert.

    Still, I have to wonder if you ever changed an oil filter on an early fifties Chrysler product with a hemi engine...?

    Bear in mind...these were old, very old, back when I had to do them. Few and far between.

    I don't doubt that some of the newer stuff can be difficult as well.

    I just can't imagine anything being any harder than one of those early mopars.

    But, I could be wrong.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    I remember my parents Buick and the oil was changed every 1000 miles and it had no filter, a 56 Buick??? When did filters become standard?
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