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Comments
I am using the following cleaning products and I am very happy with them.
I am using Meguiar's products car wash and wax. There are so many products made by Meguiar's, but if you goto their website there is a short video that explains what you should use which product first.
As for leather I would recommend Lexol leather product. It's good.
You can get them at Walmart and Targets.
http://www.zainobros.com/
It'll never end!
My 97 Accord Ex Sedan 4 cylinder has 74K miles on it. I did not take any extended warrenty offered by Honda at that time. When I called Honda directly, lastweek, they say my car is not under any Honda warrenty.
No it is not 4WD. I think it is front wheel drive only.
regards,
Bill
I did fuel injection service, since the first guy mentioned, it is better to do it, there were lots of dirt inside(???). I remember doing it 2 years back once. Thought, I will do it again, to make my engine run better.
regards,
Bill
Jeepvan-call another dealer-u have lots of time to get a new cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires and oil change free of charge. Will try to find the numbers. I know they are on another invoice done by another dealer earlier this year.
By the way-still is not running right-think it is the heated O2 sensor-will try to get them to replace that later this week.
http://www.finishfirstpolish.com
Honda Dealership insists doing first & all other oil changes at 3,000 miles.
How many of you have changed oil first in your Honda at 3,000 miles and how many waited until later (& at how many miles)?
I would have felt a lot better and I think the same is true for many others, if Honda really wanted to keep the first oil in there, to insist that their service guys rec that too. Since that is not the case, I went ahead and changed it.
Seems like you've got an honest dealer service department. Many recommend shorter intervals because it means more money in their pockets. Why mess with what they tell you?
Also, there is no set # of miles that is right for everyone. It depends on each individual vehicle and your own personal driving habits and conditions. It could be more or less than 5K depending on all of these factors as well as the type oil and filter you use.
It is much better to err on the side of caution. Never heard anyone having trouble from changing oil too frequently.
Why don't they just come out, as many high end car manufacturers do, and say to use synth oil and be done with it. Yes it would raise the cost of maintaining their cars, but the consumer would be better protected. Don't be ambiguous about this; in addition to regular/severe also state dino/synth mileages.
I'll confess to using synth mostly, but I use dino also when the budget gets tight. I just shorten the duration greatly.
Most people on this board are somewhat knowledgeable about car maintenance, but what about those who know little about their cars upkeep and follow what's in the glovebox bible. I believe the 10k intervals, using a good SL dino product, is a farce and a disservice to owners of all Honda vehicles.
I like my chances of reaching 300k with shorter intervals.
From my personal viewpoint, I buy a Honda because I am confident of the quality and durability of the product, not because it is going to be $100 per year cheaper to maintain than another car. I would speculate that most Honda owners and buyers would feel similarly.
My Honda manual says severe is any of the following:
1. Short trips under 5 miles or under 10 miles when under freezing temperatures.
2. Driving when temperatures are over 90 degrees.
3. Continuous idling or stop and go driving.
4. Dusty, muddy or roads that have been deiced.
Most parts of the country experience high temperatures in the summer or drive short distances in cold weather. A large part of America drives in the city and experiences stop and go driving. It would be fairly easy to imaging almost everyone meeting one or more of these qualifiers at least during some parts of the year.
The only way to really know is too either err on the side of caution or do oil analysis. For the cost involved with maintaining a vehicle I believe it to be foolish to not consider the severe maintenance schedule the norm instead of the exception. Just my opinion and not necessarily the right one and certainly not the only one.
It is easy to imagine that for part of the time, a given person may meet the severe conditions definition and for the other part, that person may meet the normal conditions definition. Given my own circumstances, I live in the Northeast and drive on de-iced roads from December-March. I will probably put close to 10,000 miles on the car during that time. So I can see getting an oil change at that time. But the rest of the year, I don't regularly or most of the time, drive in 90+ degree weather, on dusty roads, in stop-and-go traffic, or less than 10 miles per trip. So I would follow the normal maintenance schedule.
the new engines might have closer tolerances and/or engine seal characteristics that demand the grade 20 oil, i'm not sure, but higher viscosity oil can compromise fuel economy, integrity of engine parts and ultimately, the engine's longevity itself.
engine wear takes place over a long period of time; using non-spec lubricants may not show ill effects soon, but they can - later.
imo, synthetic 5w20 is a solid way to go, especially with the long-drain intervals honda recommends for the new accords. for good measure, i'd change 20% sooner than the applicable schedule and put in a new oil filter each time.
a last thought is that, as most already know, most of the engine wear occurs at initial start-up, where you need the lower-viscosity oil to flow quickly and freely to the overhead valves, cams and other cylinder head parts.
20w SAE range is 5.6 --> 9.29 @100deg C
30w SAE range is 9.3 --> 12.49 @100deg C
A little info is a dangerous thing. LOL
The car is running and shifting as smoothly now as when new.
I just passed my second year of ownership and looking at the glove box bible I need to address purging the brake fluid. Has anyone out there done this at a dealer/independent shop yet? What do they charge for this service? This is one job I don't want to tackle anymore on the driveway.
service in the v6 is still 3750/7500 server or normal i've been with honda for 15 years and i strongly believe honda is the car it is because of the customer taking better care of the car then anyone else
How do you like the Turanza LS tires? I got them for my accord and they have done well. Got about 2k on them so far and no visible tread wear issues. Pretty quite compared to the Potenza 950's I tried first. I got the V rated ones so as to not void the Bridgestone Platinum Pact warranty.
On the Turanzas, I've put about 4K on them and am pleased so far. They definitely have better wet traction and cruise quieter on concrete and broken roads than the Michelins. I do think the Michelin MXV4+s got 1-2 mpg better though while cruising the interstate. What do you think. I hope to get 60K from these, I guess the Michelins spoiled me in that regard
mike1qaz
As far as tread life, the V's are rated 40k, the H's are 50k. If you get 60k you've done good.
What Turanza tires did you get? in what size? and what tires did they replace? I need something to replace the 205/60-VR 16 MXV4 tires that came on my Accord coupe V6, but am getting conflicting reports on the tires I have it narrowed down to:
Yoko Avid H4
Dunlop SP Sport A2
Bridgestone Turanza LSH or LSV
Naturally being V rated they are more expensive than H or T rated ones, and there probably are other manufacturers that don't have this requirement, but if you do go with the Bridgestones be aware of this.
These tires replaced the OEM Turanza EL 42's.
How would you compare them to your OEM tires that you replaced them with?
I'm still confused about this warranty issue. Why does the warranty on the tire you're replacing matter? If I'm buying new tires wouldn't I just get the warranty that the come with?
Just out of curiousity, how many people have made a warranty claim other than major failure?
I've been thru lots of sets of tires between different cars in the house, and the warranties on any tire have never been used.
Most insurance companies in the US offer a discount for daytime running lights on cars.