Low End Sedans (under $16k)

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Comments

  • iluvmysephia1iluvmysephia1 Member Posts: 7,709
    a second. Kia, for all of the crap leveled against them, doesn't drain money away from Hyundai. AAMOF I didn't, in 1998, feel intense worry about them going belly up. Because the product they offer is a sound and reliable one. Ya gotta remember that Kia means competition to Ford, Daimler-Chrysler and GM. GM saw the value in having a good, reliable Korean-built car enough to pert-near outright buy Daewoo and save them from real bankruptcy. I also don't level threats against Daewoo automobiles because I don't feel that they're garbage, either. I think they made(and now make for GM)a good rig. I know Kia had their troubles in 1998 but, even before buying my 1999 Kia Sephia in May of 1999, I could see that in the open-auto market, a new worldwide market where the competition is intense and mergers happen quickly, Kia was going to make it. There were open options for them in 1998, when I started spending more time researching the Korean auto industry a lot closer. Really, us outsiders don't really see what goes on inside factory doors. Who's to say how much benefit Hyundai and their processes are to Kia? Kia's American CEO, Peter Butterfield, stated himself that he gets irritated when people say that Kia is a subsidiary of Hyundai. They're not. They operate financially independently. They don't depend on Hyundai cash. AAMOF Kia made massive dollars last year. I can't think of the money figure right now but I'll post it later if I find it. They offer the buying publics of so many nations so much and they are established in so many markets(and their financial rating was just raised to a 'B' I believe)that to even think back to 1998 and say that they were sinking faster than the Titanic is being simply uninformed at best. Not to worry, people. You'll be seeing the red oval around American parts for years and years and years and years to come.

    2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick

  • dispencer1dispencer1 Member Posts: 489
    I liked the comment about the Accent being simple. I think that more and more with the high price of gas there will be a move afoot to get a simple 10k car. I am certainly keeping my 2001 Malibu as a daily driver and the 2003 Deville sits in the garage. When I get rid of the Malibu I'll look at a Hyundai -just air and auto on it - that's all.
  • 280hp280hp Member Posts: 36
    yup. i think thats what its all about. keep the nicer car for family outings etc, and keep n ole beater s a commuter car.

    but im wondering whether the accent fits the bill. the entry price is right, but i have heard some worrying comments indicating that maintenance and repairs r in the german car range.

    any1 already driving korean who can give some figures ? or who can point out where to get the figures. preferably online. im not in the habit of buying car mags. nice, but pricey...

    :)
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Member Posts: 489
    Car magazines are incredibly expensive on the rack and incredibly cheap if you subscribe. I recall that Car and Driver was 8 or 10 dollars a year when I subscribed recently - same with Motor Trend and even Automotive Magazine (the best) was a fraction of the newstand price. Check out the coupons inside the issues. I subscribed to Auto Week but was disappointed - most of it seems to be dedicated to racing. Anyway -with the Accent warranty and perhaps an extended warranty (if they offer one) I wouldn't worry about something serious breaking. I haven't checked out normal maintenance since we don't have a dealer here. I agree about German maintenance and repairs - I had the misfortune to own an Audi once back in Washington DC (suckered in by the car magazines) -maintenance was covered for 50,000 miles as was repairs. It was a 50,000 mile throwaway and spent most of its time at the dealership getting electronic things temporarily fixed. - I dumped the lemon at 48k.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Where did you hear the comments--from late-model Accent owners? That would be the best source of info. One source of online info is right here, the Edmunds.com TCO info on every new car. I looked at the TCO numbers for the Accent GL 4-door automatic and there was something strange. First year maintenance costs were estimated at $855! There is no way that maintenance on a car like the Accent can be that high in the first year or 15k miles. The only servicing it would need in that time is at most (assuming severe service schedules) five oil changes (every 3000 miles), a tire rotation, and some checkups. The 15k service would be a little more involved I expect. My Hyundai dealer charges $25 for a 3k service that includes the oil change and all necessary checks. That's $100, plus whatever the cost of the 15k service is and one tire rotation. I'll bet those are less than $755. To compare, the Kia Rio has first year maintenance costs estimated to be $430, one-half those of the Accent. What could account for a $425 difference in these very similar cars? Over five years, Edmunds.com estimates the Accent will have $2300 more in maintenance costs than the Rio. Something doesn't make sense there.

    You might want to post your question on the Hyundai Accent board here to see what owners say.
  • iluvmysephia1iluvmysephia1 Member Posts: 7,709
    costs over a year. Anyone who owns either a Kia Rio(any model year)or Hyundai Accent(any model year)care to chime in with what you are paying for maintenance? That doesn't make much sense, the Rio costing only half of what the Accent does for maintenance.
        To add to my last post above concerning the relationship between Hyundai and Kia, yes, Hyundai does own a 51% controlling interest in Kia. That is true, but, saying that Kia is a subsidiary of Hyundai does not mix right with press releases from both Hyundai and Kia regarding their relationship. Their earnings are separate, for one thing. A certain percentage of Kia vehicle sold doesn't go into a Hyundai pot, for instance. Yes, Hyundai can and I'm sure they do dictate some factory jig and tooling and platform decisions to Kia. It would be interesting to know more about this relationship between them, perhaps a knowledgeable insider could take this project up and write a book on it. I'd go out and immediately snatch it right up.

    2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick

  • iluvmysephia1iluvmysephia1 Member Posts: 7,709
    that should be coming into America in the not-too-distant. Yes, Mazda is making a similarly-named little crossover Vibe-type vehicle(boxier, though)that they're naming the Mazda Micro. It's a small 4-door wagon/SUV crossover model. The little Nissan Micra is much more interesting looking to me...they were going bonkers writing about it in the UK car magazine I was reading, but they like the smaller cars there. This one has a small and buggy-eyed look to it's front end shape that, right off the bat, Americans far and wide could never imagine themselves driving. It's way too small for most Americans, although there is a crowd that would buy Micra's, for sure. One only has to look at the success of the new-VW Beetle to see that truth. We'll be hearing more about it in the upcoming weeks. It should fall into this low-end range, albeit not as a normal sedan, though. I notice the Nissan Sentra is one of this thread's example cars.

    2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick

  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Yes, something is not right with the Edmunds.com figures. In 3-1/2 years of ownership of my '01 Elantra GLS, 26,400 miles, my total maintenance costs have been under $500. And I've had everything done by the dealer except wiper blades. I have been following the "severe service" schedule. The total includes some services at the 15k service that were not required (I have to be more careful in the future). I will have some significant maintenance in six months at the 30k mark, including the 30k service that will probably be at least $200 and new tires (about $400). With the five-year bumper-to-bumper warranty, I shouldn't have any other significant costs until the car is five years old, or more likely 60k miles.
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Member Posts: 489
    I will never in the future make the mistake of asking for the 100k "Service" or 50k "Service" or any other "Service" when I want an oil change, tune up, etc. I took my '98 Silhouette in for a tune up at 100k miles and told them to do the "100K tune up". The book says that the plugs need to be changed at 100k miles. A tune up (essentially plugs, fuel filters, air cleaner, etc) usually runs about $150 or so at a GM dealer -sometimes less. The cost ran me over $300 because I had made the mistake of mentioning "100k miles" and they assumed that I wanted the 100k "service" and charged about $150 for checking a bunch of things. Next time I need a tune up I'll either take it to my independent mechanic or tell the dealer just to do a tune up. Same with an oil change. If - like my GM dealer does - they check a bunch of things for free when they do the 3k mile oil changes (they even wash it), it is fine. When - like Toyota does - they charge hundreds of dollars for a 15k "service" - no thanks. If or when something breaks I'll get it fixed. Watch what you ask for!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I recently looked at a 96 Camry a friend was thinking of buying. The owners had all the receipts for everything done to the car, and he had all the service done at Toyota exactly when required. We figured he spent $1500 just in maintenance over 80k miles. They were chargeing like $350 for a 30k service. Most if not all of that is inspection. ANYONE can change their oil, filters, and sparkplugs. With a little experience they can do all of the inspection stuff too. Toyota is raking people on this one.
  • majorthomechomajorthomecho Member Posts: 1,331
    My roommate's car is due for the 15k and I asked the service advisor how much it is going to be. She indicated under $100 so the cost for this might depend on the dealership and not the make. Also might depend on the model. My roommate's car is an Echo like mine and it seems like it cost me a lot more for my 15k service at a different dealership.
  • kmagkmag Member Posts: 98
    I think these "inspection" type of services are a complete waste of money for most newer cars, certainly for the cars this topic is about. Change the oil, rotate the tires, thats all you need to do the first 2-3 years. Ive never done more than that and never had a problem.
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Member Posts: 489
    I certainly agree with you. I think the secret is not to use the word "service" or "maintenance" and tell the dealer exactly what you will pay for - plugs, oil and filter change, fuel filter, etc. If the car is under warranty you should do only those things that are required to maintain the warranty. What there would be at 15k that would be more than an oil and filter change is beyond me for an Echo. What would cost more than (at the most) $25?? An air filter? How about Autozone. These maintenance checks are just rip-offs.
  • iluvmysephia1iluvmysephia1 Member Posts: 7,709
    the type of driving you do and adjust your service to either "normal" or "severe" driving. Yep-mainly oil changes and tire rotations and watching how all of the vehicle's systems are operating is the main stuff to keep an eye on when yur rig's so new like that. Again, it has to be stressed that watching your tire pressure is very important, especially if it's a Ford Explorer that you drive. Sorry for yet another lame reference to the "Exploder," but apparently it remains a potentially "explosive" situation.

    2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick

  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The latest JD Power Initial Quality Study was released today. In the Compact Car class, the Corolla took top honors, followed by the Accent and then the PT Cruiser (a compact?) and the Civic.

    Here's how the low-end sedan makers ranked by nameplate (in defects per 100 cars):

    Honda - 99
    Hyundai - 102
    Toyota - 104
    Chevy - 119
    (Industry Average - 119)
    Dodge - 121
    Ford - 130
    Mitsubishi - 130
    Saturn - 149
    Suzuki - 149
    Kia - 153
    Nissan - 154
    Mazda - 157
    Scion - 158

    http://www.jdpower.com/news/releases/pressrelease.asp?ID=2004037
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    There are two mysteries to me on that list.
    A) How low Scion is.
    B) Why Suzuki is always so bad. Japanese domestic Suzukis are so well put together, I don't get it.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I agree with those, but other mysteries to me are the low rankings of Mazda and Saturn, which have a reputation for quality.
  • muffin_manmuffin_man Member Posts: 865
    Agreed. I don't get the Mazda and Saturn troubles either. And I don't get how Porsche can finish so low when the last JD Power rating (of some kind) had them finishing at the top). Maybe the Cayenne?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I thought Scion was a nameplate made by Toyota. Actually, it IS a nameplate made by Toyota. So they should add Scions lousy results to Toyotas.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    They did that, in manufacturer rankings. But because of the great showing by Lexus (#1 nameplate) and the good showing by the Toyota brand, Toyota overall came out on top for manufacturers.
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    I completely dont understand the JD Power ratings of the Scions, which are totally "parts bin" cars.
    Does anyone know exactly what qualifies as a "problem" in a vehicle? Certainly, it is something more minute than how Consumer Reports classifies it. By their measure, the average 1 year old model vehicle has 17 problems per 100 vehicles.

    I find it hard to believe that of every 100 cars sold there are greater than 100 "problems" as JD Power calls it. So, what exactly are these problems?

    ~alpha
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    J.D. Power isn't real clear (to the public) on their methodology, but here is a hint from a Hyundai press release (yeah, they're crowing already) from www.hyundaiusa.com:

    "IQS measures a broad range of quality problems, heavily weighted toward defects and malfunctions, quality of workmanship, drivability, human factors in engineering (ease of use) and safety-related problems."

    So the IQS doesn't just measure defects, but also design issues and driveability issues. I wonder if that means that if someone doesn't like some design point of a car, or doesn't like how it drives, that can show up on the IQS? That might explain the low ranking for Scion. Maybe some buyers aren't happy with certain aspects of the cars--too firm a ride, not fast enough, fuel economy not high enough, whatever. It seems as if there might be a huge subjective element to the J.D. Power IQS. The CR reliability study is subjective also, but at least it focuses on defects.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    alpha01-

    "I find it hard to believe that of every 100 cars sold there are greater than 100 "problems" as JD Power calls it."

    Buy a Chrysler product and you'll find out real fast how this can happen! :-))))))))))

    fastdriver
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    You hit the nail on the head -as we've all come to expect from you :)

    "Maybe some buyers aren't happy with certain aspects of the cars--too firm a ride, not fast enough, fuel economy not high enough, whatever. It seems as if there might be a huge subjective element to the J.D. Power IQS."

    This is my impression as well, and why I take issue with JDP. IMO, dont call it an "Initial Quality" Study, if youre also evaluating elements of design and execution. I've posted on other threads here, but one of the reasons cited for the HORRID showing of the Hummer H2 (of which I am no, fan, but nonetheless) is that owners couldnt believe they were getting 10MPG. Meanwhile, they drive around San Diego in stop and go traffic with 3 tons of metal and a V8 engine. What did these people really expect? And shouldnt qualitative evaluations such as that be included in satisfaction studies instead?

    ~alpha
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I heard another reason the Hummer got such low marks on the IQS is that the machine gun turret keeps jamming, making navigating through rush-hour traffic more difficult, and some owners want higher ground clearance so as they run over the Civic, ECHOes, Accents, Rios etc. they won't scrape the underside of the Hummer. ;-)
  • smith20smith20 Member Posts: 256
    LOL! Curse those Hummers!!!
  • kmagkmag Member Posts: 98
    I saw two Aveos on the way home, a hatch and a sedan. I think these cars are ugly as sin. The sedan reminds me of the Metro 4 door or the Kia Rio.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    hate the sedan, like the hatch.
  • jegjeg Member Posts: 7
    Until today, I had been excited about finding a 2001 or 2002 VW Jetta GLS VR6 to replace my increasingly unreliable 1994 4.0 V6 Ranger XLT. Today, however, I read various discussions on this website lambasting the poor reliability of Jettas and I am now reconsidering my search. I had been focused on the V6 Jetta for its spiritedness and have not even considered a 4-cylinder of any kind because I know I won’t be happy with a sluggish engine. Given the reliability concerns with Jettas and what appears to me to be a lack of affordable V6s in the used car market in Orange County, CA, I have two questions: (1) Generally speaking, is a 4-cylinder Turbo just as peppy as a V6? What’s the difference performance wise? Are there other factors to consider when evaluating power? (2) Does anyone have suggestions for a kind of car in the area of $15,000 that combines reliability and power?
  • 280hp280hp Member Posts: 36
    1) Generally speaking, is a 4-cylinder Turbo just as peppy as a V6?

    Yes.

    What’s the difference performance wise?

    4 cylinder turbos feel faster. But thats my subjective feel.

    Are there other factors to consider when evaluating power?

    Ive been told that the feel is due to broad torque curves. So that could be a factor.

    2) Does anyone have suggestions for a kind of car in the area of $15,000 that combines reliability and power?

    Used Japanese V6. Eg V6 Camry, V6 Accord or Maxima.
  • frenchcarfrenchcar Member Posts: 247
    My wifr was in an accident with her Suzuki Aerio and while it was being repaired we rented a few different cars and drove several others. The new Verona, Forenza and 05 Spectra all sat too low for our taste (hard to get into) so we didnt bother with them. The Scion xA and xB drive nice, fairly quiet, zippy in traffic but run out of power at high speeds, ride is a little busy but xA is a tight fit and the back seat is for kids only. The xB is huge inside, is more comfortable and really appeals to us but the A/C is inadequate here in hot Arizona as there is too much interior volume to cool. Rented a PT Cruiser for a couple of days and fell in love with it for many reasons but the gas guage plunged rapidly and we only got 16 mpg and that was the end of that thought. Then rented a Chevy Aveo for a day and this is the second time I have driven one and the first time at highway speeds. Few small cars ride this nice or are this quiet, fairly zippy around town, not a sports car in the handling department but adequate for 80 % of the population and cruises nicely at 80 mph. Some buffering when behind a Semi Truck but thats to be ecpected. Good fit and finish, high comfortable seats and adequate space. Hard to beat for the price and we both like it better than the xA Scion. The Koreans have come a long way in a short time.
  • zanderson1977zanderson1977 Member Posts: 4
    First of all, I have never driven an Daewoo. I have driven all the other cars that this thread is SUPPOSEDLY about. If it was my money, I would buy (in order) a Sentra, a Protege/3, a Civic, an Elantra, a Lancer, or a Focus. Dodge is even offering a 7 year warranty on their Neon, so I might consider it for the right price. Also, there is no way you can incldue any VW in the comparison unless it is a Golf; I agree than $20K is not hardly a "low-end" sedan. Try $15k or less. Now, I have always owned Japanese cars, learned to drive on one, and enjoyed not having to work on them or pay someone else to. Toyota and Honda, and let's not forget Nissan, Mazda and Subaru, and lately, Mitsubishi, have set a reputation for themselves that is hard to argue with, but their "low-end" cars keep getting more expensive because they trade on that rep. Well, why not? It hasn't really decreased their sales numbers, they've simply shifted their sales demographics. There are few bargains in the automotive world; in most cases you get what you pay for.

    Hyundai got a bad rep in the early 90s due to poor quality control, but they were still better than Dodge/Chrysler, and on par with Chevy and Ford, when you average out the whole decade. Currently, the Elantra and it's cousin, the new Kia, are the cars to beat in this segment. They are cheap, loaded with stuff the others make you pay extra for, and have that 10yr warranty. Are they as bulletproof as Japanese? Not yet maybe, but with Americans and Mexicans actually building the Japanese cars, the playing field may be leveled considerably.

    The Aveo? Chevy learned a lot from their Geo venture with Toyota, and Ford has owned Mazda long enough to get some good engineering ideas from them (compare a Focus to an Escort, and see the difference). But neither of them could realistically offer a 10yr warranty on any of their products, they'd lose their shirts. They design their cars to be obsolete (and not worth repairing) at about five years old. Take a look around and see the number of 10 year old Toyotas and Nissans and Hondas still being driven, happily, by people who will gladly tell you they spend little or nothing on maintenance. Even 10 year old Geos (especially Prizms with the Toyota engine) are still cruising. You don't see hardly any 10 year old Hyundais on the road (yet), and Daewoo hasn't been in business long enough (stateside) to have a real track record. I hope you can find a dealership in a couple years if you ever need parts or service.
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    My comments on the Corolla, Elantra, 3, and Forenza.

    The 2005 Corolla is available and has had some styling upgrades, as well as much nicer instrumentation on the LE models, with Optitron standard. Think Lexus. Backy, the armrest you take issue with is also different, offering the padding that you missed, and coveerd in the same fabric that adorns the seats.

    I agree, the driving position sucks. However, the ride- that is your preference, and youre the first I've heard or read thats complained about the quality of the HVAC controls. Perhaps this was due to the rental? The Corolla engine offers a better tradeoff of performance and economy than the Spectra/Elantra engine (reference CR's standarized economy loops and also the Nov 2002 road test by C/D of the Corolla and the Elantra engine- the Corolla trumped the Elantra in speed and by a HUGE margin in economy over the Elantra, although it has gained VVTi now.). The Corolla's engine, however, I will agree- could use finishing school at higher RPMs. And finally, the Corolla resale values remain at the top of the class, just below Civic values. The Elantra and Corolla have VERY similar interior specs as well, and the Corollas actual seats I find more comfortable, the Elantras are VERY firm. Also, the rear head restraints in the Corolla are a welcome safety feature. The Corolla also offers side curtains with a larger side impact chest airbag this year, which I'd take over the Elantras standard head/chest setup (which is a great standard, IMO, but its time to offer curtains).

    In terms of the 3i vs. the Elantra, the difference on the MSRP when comparably equiped (auto, ABS, side airbags) is about $3500. The 3 is a better overall package, period. Given the money, Id take the 3i, which offers a better ride, better handling, better economy, side curtains, larger, grippier wheels and tires, and more interior room.

    The Forenza, IMO, is a good waste of money. I havent driven it, so I will be honest and qualify my statement with that. But why should I? Theres no competitive advantages with the Spectra available, with the Elantra available, and basically every other small car available. No side airbags, low power, poor fuel economy, unremarkable though fine interior, unproven reliability, poor resale. I was in one at NYIAS. That was enough. Anyone considering the Forenza should look very hard at the Elantra first, or for an extra grand the Spectra, or if you can go higher, as Ive said, the 3.

    ~alpha
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    The 3i comparably equipped to an Elantra GLS auto with ABS is a 2500 difference on the sticker, and the 3i has very jazzy alloys. Also, for 2005 on the Corolla, you can get VSC, a nice feature.

    ~alpha
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Not too many people I know pay full sticker price for a car these days. When comparing prices, I think it's fair to at least include rebates that are available to everyone. Elantra (GLS and GT) have a $2000 nationwide rebate available. (I noticed the new Spectras now have a $1000 rebate.) Discounts on Elantras to near invoice cost are also available (based on personal experience, local ads and ads in other cities I visit, and what is posted on the Hyundai boards here). That puts the real cost of an Elantra GLS about $5000 less than a comparably equipped Mazda3i. The Elantra GT, which is a much better comparo to the Mazda3 because of the sharper handling of the GT, is about $4000 less comparably equipped (as comparably as possible that is). I recently bought a GT hatchback with package 8 and automatic for $13,200 plus T&L, and that included three years of free scheduled maintenance (worth about $500 to me I figure). The 3i is $18,320 MSRP, no rebates available, and $750-1000 discounts available in my area from what I've seen. For that difference in price, I got all this that is not on the 3i:

    * Traction control
    * Leather seating surfaces, steering wheel cover, shift knob
    * Variable intermittant wipers
    * Eight-way adjustable driver's seat
    * Two power outlets
    * Trip computer
    * "Theater-style" courtesy lights
    * 5 year/60,000 bumper-to-bumper warranty
    * 10 year/100,000 mile powertrain warranty
    * Three years free scheduled maintenance

    What I gave up is a bit sharper handling (in exchange for a bit smoother ride), no side air curtains (but a 4 or 5-star side impact scores--and 4 stars is "good enough", right?), no manumatic shifter (IMO if you want to shift for yourself, do it right and get a stick shift), no CD changer (which I don't want, but I'd have to get if I want a moonroof on the 3i), no telescopic steering wheel (not needed as the driving position is great), and 10 more horsepower. If I need bigger wheels/tires (which I don't), I can take some of the $4000-5000 savings and get some.

    It is true that the 3i has more interior room than the Elantra--0.3 cubic feet more. The Elantra has more overall volume (especially in hatchback form). The 3i also has slightly better EPA numbers than the Elantra--26/34 vs. 24/32 with the automatic. So if those differences plus the others mentioned are worth $4000-$5000 to someone (plus extra T&L and financing costs), then the 3i is the better bet.

    As for the Corolla, I'm glad to hear Toyota improved the arm rest for '05 and now offers side curtains and VSC. The cheap-feeling HVAC controls had nothing to do with the fact I drove a rental. They just don't have the smooth precision feel I would expect from a Toyota, and that I get from less expensive cars like Elantra and Spectra, and other low-end cars like the Civic. But it's really a moot point for me because until Toyota fixes the horrible seating position on the Corolla, I could never consider buying one.

    I agree that the Forenza is not a great buy compared to the Elantra in particular. It does have sharp styling IMO, a comfortable interior and a roomy back seat, some nice features like an 8-speaker stereo, but not enough plusses. Must be why I've seen Forenza S models advertised for $10k in my town recently.
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    I used sticker price as a comparison point because its standardized. You wont find a comparison by any car magazine that offers a discussion on price other than what is shown on the sticker, because it is the most easily made comparison. What you saved with the $2000 rebate, you'll lose in resale, or if you've financed the car, though unusual loss.

    With regard to side curtains, the NHTSA's side impact is flawed for its lack of inclusion of Head Injury rating in the star rating. (The thresholds for stars in the frontal and side impacts are different, also, for what its worth.) For me, 4 stars in the frontal is fine.4 stars in the side impact would be fine too, if the side impact included HIC measures. The Hyundai provides excellent side protection for frontal passengers, but there is nothing even offered for rear passengers.

    The leather in the Elantra. Well, thats arguable. Sure looks and feels like vinyl to me. Id prefer the Elantras high quality cloth. The 3i felt more comfortable to me, more airy, despite its scant room advantage.

    Im not sure why youre taking issue with my comments on the Elantra. Its an excellent car at an excellent price. But the 3 is a better car. Consumers can choose extreme value, or they choose to pay a higher price for a newer design whose execution as an overall package surpasses that of the Elantra.

    ~alpha
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I'm only disagreeing with your method of comparing prices. IMO, a price that is available to everyone, without negotiation, is "standardized." Everyone who walks into their U.S. Hyundai dealer and buys an Elantra will get either $2000 off MSRP or 0% financing for five years. I think that is important to consider, especially since Hyundais have historically lower resale values than brands like Honda and Toyota. One of the reasons for this is the large rebates available on Hyundais, which lowers their initial price even more compared to Civics, Corollas etc.

    If Mazda is successful at continuing to forego rebates on the 3, then that will help boost the resale values on the 3. That remains to be seen, however, since the Protege was also highly regarded when it debuted but in its last few years Mazda put large rebates on it, and its resale value didn't do too well compared to Honda and Toyota.

    BTW, have you tried out the leather in the '04 GT? It's been improved over earlier years, is softer and is perforated now. It's not glove-soft like in a Lexus, but far superior to what I've seen on cars like the Focus and some $30,000 minivans. Also it's a lighter color than before, so the interior is brighter. And it does smell like leather, not vinyl. I'm not a huge fan of leather myself, but I know many people like it so it's a selling point for them. And the GT is mostly for my wife, and she likes the leather, so that's what's important.

    It's true the NHTSA doesn't include the head injury scores in their "star" ratings, but at least they are publishing the head injury scores now so buyers can include them in their decision. It is strange that they would count only chest injury in their side impact ratings--a blow to the head can be just as dangerous, if not more so, than a blow to the chest.
  • baber1baber1 Member Posts: 49
    While I was waiting on my new Elantra, I was given a base model Sonata for a loaner. This with a 4 cylinder engine and a autostick trans. I was very impressed how nice this "cheap" car was. Very quiet, nice ride, enough power, and a nice cloth interior. I dont know what the sticker was but I saw a V6 Sonata in the showroom that stickered just under 20K. The Sonata is a nice entry midsize car for the price of many compact cars. If you have 20k to spend, take a look at the Sonata.
  • iluvmysephia1iluvmysephia1 Member Posts: 7,709
    so zany about the Japanese cars, I'm enjoying the little comparo in here with Hyundai's Elantra pitted against Mazda's 3. I think you both have argued your points well and, if I were in the market, I would print out the last 10 posts in this thread and study them. In there you will find the pluses and neg.'s with regard to Elantra and 3. I gotta tell ya, there's not a lotta negatives with either car. Hyundai is screaming along(and I'm partial to Kia so I gotta include them in here)so fast in value, safety feature content, styling and price that anything HyunKia-ish simply rocks the house nowadays. Here's the wind shear to consider regarding these "low-enders". Hyundai and Kia and their Long Haul Warranty. Along with the great safety features offered now in Spectra(the front and rear seat airbags and side curtain airbags as well as 4-wheel disc brakes standard equipment)the car offers a guy like me all the styling content he could ever want. I simply love the 2004 1/2 Kia Spectra styling and, although I don't really dig the Elantra's styling, I sure recognize value and a great deal in a car. Both of these automakers are making a large impact now, with so many new models coming out and great feature content. As far as incentive offerings go, the American carmakers are at it again because April sales were kinda slow(on the SUV's I noticed the rebates and special financing especially, although it probably extends to most all of their models right now). Worrying about resale value never has played a part in what kind of car I want to buy, anyway. The market in general should not help you decide what kind of car you want to buy and drive. Doesn't work that way for this padre and it never will. It doesn't sit right with me that a whole mass of people in general plays a part in what my car should be re-sold at. That's kind of a silly way to guage things because it's(car ownership and maintenance)an individual thing-not a mass-marketed type of thing. Therefore resale amounts are flawed and goofy and do not play a part in what I choose to buy, maintain and enjoy driving. Period.

    2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick

  • smith20smith20 Member Posts: 256
    Just a few comments:

    No educated buyer would pay sticker price unless they had too because it is a super hyped up car. Why don't you compare Edmund's TMV for the different vehicles since they claim it is the "average price people are paying for the car". Hot cars will be at MSRP or higher while others will be less . . .

    We bought an '04 Elantra GT Hatchback last weekend and I'm pretty sure the seats aren't vinyl. In fact I didn't particularly want leather, but it's standard on the GT. The seats certainly have been pleasant so far. I guess I'm saying I'm not missing the cloth . . .

    I think I sense a negative connotation in the use of "extreme value". If you meant that, I just want to say neither my wife nor I feel we sacrificed anything in purchasing an Elantra . . . we liked the styling, the driving experience, the features, and of course the price.
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    Late night, cant go to bed right now. :)

    "Worrying about resale value never has played a part in what kind of car I want to buy, anyway. The market in general should not help you decide what kind of car you want to buy and drive. Doesn't work that way for this padre and it never will. It doesn't sit right with me that a whole mass of people in general plays a part in what my car should be re-sold at. That's kind of a silly way to guage things because it's(car ownership and maintenance)an individual thing-not a mass-marketed type of thing. Therefore resale amounts are flawed and goofy and do not play a part in what I choose to buy, maintain and enjoy driving. Period. "

    I do not "worry" about resale value. However, I also do not pay for cars in cash. With regard to resale/estimated values for cars, it matters to me for the first year or two of ownership, around which point the majority of the financing public SHOULD be concerned about the difference in amount owed on the loan and the worth of the car, especially, and God forbid, in the event of a major accident or theft. Sure, one can purchase GAP insurance on the loan, but this is rarely practiced outside of leasing. The bottom line is that the lower the value of the vehicle, the longer the average buyer is "in the hole."

    Now, for those that consider this risk minimal, great. For those run cars until they die, also great... cause I agree... why care about resale?
    BUT... its not a non-factor.

    ~alpha
  • cookie55cookie55 Member Posts: 15
    For those who are interested in Hyundai quality issues. BuisinessWeek magazine (May 17)has a full page article on the history of this company's surge in quality. J D Powers first 90 days ownership survey has Hyundai tied with Honda and one point below Toyota.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I agree resale is a consideration if someone is going to keep a car for only a few years. But maybe the point iluv was trying to make is, before you resell the car, you have to drive it all that time. If you don't like driving the car, it doesn't matter how great the resale value is. The other thing some people don't take into account on resale values is that one of the reasons cars like the Civic and Corolla have above-average resale values is that they cost more to begin with. So when calculating the difference in resale values, I think it's important to use the cash figures, not percentages. It's meaningless that, for example, a Civic has a higher percentage resale value than, say, and Elantra if the depreciation in cash terms is about the same, based on actual purchase price. The other thing to include in such a calculation is opportunity cost, i.e., what could you do with the cash saved up front on the less expensive (and presumably faster-depreciating) car during the years before you sell the car? Not only could that money be put to work earning more money or paying off debt, but people who finance their cars will be paying interest on the extra amount paid for the more expensive car until the loan is paid off.
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    "The other thing some people don't take into account on resale values is that one of the reasons cars like the Civic and Corolla have above-average resale values is that they cost more to begin with"

    That is a false statement. Resale value, as a percentage of cost is NOT tied to MSRP. The dollar amount of resale value matters not at all, but rather, the percentage of worth that is retained is crucial. A $45,000 Buick Park Avenue has terrible resale value, much worse than Civic or Corolla, but when you turn it in after 3 years, you'll still get more dollars than turning in a 3 year $16,000 Civic. Who cares though, because you're losing a far greater percentage? Cars that are priced higher to begin with do NOT necessarily command higher resale as a percentage of original cost.

    "The other thing to include in such a calculation is opportunity cost, i.e., what could you do with the cash saved up front on the less expensive (and presumably faster-depreciating) car during the years before you sell the car? Not only could that money be put to work earning more money or paying off debt, but people who finance their cars will be paying interest on the extra amount paid for the more expensive car until the loan is paid off."

    Good point.

    But what about the issues I spoke in terms of being "in the hole"?

    ~alpha
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Comparing a Park Avenue to a Civic or Corolla is totally ridiculous. Maybe you need to get more sleep to help clarify your thinking. You are totally missing my point. I'm not talking about if you buy a $45,000 car it will be worth more after 3 years than a $16,000 car. Of course it will. I am saying that if you buy a $16,000 compact car and someone else buys a $11,000 compact car, they might both lose $5000 after 3 years. In percentage terms, the less expensive car will look worse, but in dollar terms you are even.

    If you are asserting that it is not true that one of the reasons a car like a Civic has a higher resale value than a car like an Elantra is that the Civic costs thousands more up front, you have the right to think that but I disagree.

    And resale value as a percentage of cost is tied to MSRP. For example, take a look at the resale percentages published by Kiplinger's. They are tied to MSRP. What else would they be tied to?

    As for being "in the hole", there are two ways to avoid that, both of which I've employed: 1) negotiate a really low price up front, so "the hole" is no worse than it would be than if buying the car with lesser depreciation percentage; 2) get gap insurance, even when buying vs. leasing. I found that the price of the gap insurance is offset by lower insurance premiums (because I was able to raise the deductible on my insurance coverage, based on the gap coverage).
  • smith20smith20 Member Posts: 256
    Chances of being "in the hole" are closely tied to the length of the loan a person takes out to purchase a car . . .

    A third way to avoid being upside down on the loan is to get a shorter loan term. A person who gets a 36 or 48 month loan has a very low chance of being upside down. Someone financing a car on a 72, 84 or even (gasp) 96 month loan has an increasingly higher chance of being "in the hole" because they are paying off the principal so slowly on those loans. Someone purchasing a car on an 84 or 96 month loan, however, is probably buying a car that they really shouldn't be able to afford. Someone who needs an 84 month loan to afford a "low end sedan" in my opinion should think twice, or even three or four of five times about buying a car at all.
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    ?

    "I am saying that if you buy a $16,000 compact car and someone else buys a $11,000 compact car, they might both lose $5000 after 3 years. In percentage terms, the less expensive car will look worse, but in dollar terms you are even."

    My point, and the reason why I used the extreme and obvious example of the Park Avenue, is that "in dollar terms" doesnt matter to original owners/second hand purchasers, leasing companies, insurance companies etc. What matter is how well the vehicle holds its value, as a percentage of MSRP. Theres a big difference between holding an asset thats lost 31% of its value, and one thats lost 46% over the same course of time/usage. Maybe not to you, but there is to me.

    "If you are asserting that it is not true that one of the reasons a car like a Civic has a higher resale value than a car like an Elantra is that the Civic costs thousands more up front, you have the right to think that but I disagree."

    That depends on your statement. If by "resale value" you mean absolute dollars involved in a resale transaction, then yes I would agree with you.

    But, if when you say "resale value", you mean as a percentage of MSRP, you can disagree, but I think you are wrong. Example- A Cavalier is significantly more expensive than a comparably equipped Elantra, competes in the same class, but its resale is significantly WORSE than the Elantra's. Under your explanation, this cannot be true, but it is. The car with a greater MSRP has a lower resale value.

    "And resale value as a percentage of cost is tied to MSRP."

    I should have been more clear on this one, I apologize. Resale value, as presented in Kiplingers (actually ALG's figures) is expressed as a percentage of MSRP for standardized comparison purposes. The vehicles retained value, essentially the numerator in the ratio presented in Kiplingers, is NOT a function of the MSRP, which is the point I was trying to make. The retained value is a function of the vehicle's desirability in the second hand market, itself a function of many factors (perceptions, location, availability, etc). The MSRP is simply the denominator, and the retained value (numerator) is not a function of it. Obviously, the final percentage, is calculated off the retained dollar value/MSRP.

    ~alpha
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    If percentages are what is important to you, fine. I couldn't care less about percentages. I can't spend percentages. I can spend dollars. The dollar amount that a car depreciates while I own it is what is important to me, as it factors into the total cost of ownership of the vehicle.

    Suppose you are choosing between two cars, each of which meets your needs. One costs $20,000, the other costs $15,000. You plan to keep the car for five years. The residual value percentage of the $20,000 car is 50%, while the residual value percentage of the $15,000 car is only 40%. That means that over those five years, the $20,000 car will lose $10,000 in value, and the $15,000 car will lose $9000 in value. The way I see it, I am $1000 ahead financially by buying the $15,000 car--actually more than that if financing costs and opportunity costs are factored in. But what you seem to be saying is that these "dollar terms" don't matter to original owners. It's more important that the car have a high percentage of residual value. Frankly, I don't understand that position.
  • fushigifushigi Member Posts: 1,459
    The best way to not get in the hole (or be upside down on the loan) is to make as large a down payment as possible. Increase your equity in the car up front. Side benefits include paying less interest (if not on a 0% loan) and possibly financing for a shorter term.

    The easiest way to do that is to keep making car payments after your current loan is paid off. Make those payments to a savings account or other investment. When the time comes to buy a car, you can pay for a significant portion of it up front. My brother started that in the 70s and has basically been able to pay cash for every car he's bought since then.

    On resale, both alpha and backy are right. Insurance companies and ratings agencies will go by the % of MSRP while consumers will generally go by the actual dollar cost. Honestly, with rebates-a-plenty and fewer and fewer people paying MSRP, the %MSRP benchmark should probably be revised. A normalized average purchase price should be used. The data is readily available and would provide a much more realistic picture.

    Specifically related to the Elantra vs. Civic, etc. My only fault with the Elantra and other Korean cousins is their fuel economy is not as good as Civic, Corolla, etc. But even that is a reasonable tradeoff considering Hyundai/Kia owners won't have significant maintenance costs for years.

    My wife's 01 Elantra has 35K trouble-free miles so far.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • alpha01alpha01 Member Posts: 4,747
    "The way I see it, I am $1000 ahead financially by buying the $15,000 car--actually more than that if financing costs and opportunity costs are factored in. But what you seem to be saying is that these "dollar terms" don't matter to original owners. It's more important that the car have a high percentage of residual value. Frankly, I don't understand that position."

    An honest, sincere question- you are not employed in any finance or accounting related field, correct?

    ~alpha
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