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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • simple2simple2 Member Posts: 16
    Sorry mate, but as far as I know there is no protection on any cars I know against dissent size rock flaying in to the condenser / radiator when you travel at speed around 100 Km/hour. Only off-road SUV’s have heavy duty grilles and bash boards….
    If you have damaged your condenser so the gas has escaped it was a fair size rock or a high speed impact. Unless of coarse AUDI service are playing games because they do not want to do it under the warranty …. but this is only guess.
  • mikelsmikels Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone ever replaced an indicator relay on a 2000, A4. My indicator has been intermittently not working, up until this week when it completely stopped working. The hazard flashers still work, but the indicators fails to flash. I've found replacement relays, but haven't figured out where the relay is located, and what's involved to replace it. Your comments appreciated
  • simple2simple2 Member Posts: 16

    Have a question for you….
    A4 1.8T Q 2002
    What is the purpose of the small 3 way valve which spites westgate activator pipe in to the “T” join ? (located 5 inch away up on the pressure pipe coming from westgate activator)
    Does it simply bleed the control pressure back in to the turbocharger inlet if westgate needs to be kept close? Or it also keeps the pressure in the activator keeping the gate open permanently if needed?? Can the malfunction of the valve cause westgate to be always open?
    Thank you.
  • hydrocarbonhydrocarbon Member Posts: 16
    This is a pretty easy fix. The relays are under a panel, drivers' side well(where the brake and gas pedal are). You just need to remove the plate and the relays are right there.
  • mtmanmtman Member Posts: 2
    I've had the gas gush over as well. I've tried virtually every angle conceivable, except standing on my head to get it to pump gas. It just seems to work after about 10-15 minutes of frustration.
    You're right about the empty tank though. It must hold more pressure as the fuel decreases.
    Been there with the clothes as well. Nothing like going to work in nice clothes smelling of gasoline.
  • erixerix Member Posts: 3
    A week ago I bought a used 2002 A4 1.8T with Tip and Quattro w/62k on it and already problems are starting to surface. For the first four days everything went well, the car was an absolute pleasure to drive.
    However, right after I had the vehicle inspected at a respectable Chicagoland Audi dealership, my accelerator pedal has been quitting on me intermittantly and my brake light won't turn off.
    The accelerator problem first happened on a chilly 50 degree morning (as opposed to the 70 degree nights we had been having) when I was going down the highway at 4:30 am. I had the pedal down at the time and the car just stopped accelerating. I pressed it down a couple of times to see if it was just the Tip being laggy again, but nothing happened at all, the tach didn't move. Then suddenly -about 4 seconds after it stopped responding- the car started responding to the pedal again and it accelerated sharply. It happened twice on that trip and today it must have happened 5 or 6 times, I was afraid it wouldn't make to the office parking lot. And it only seems to happen in the morning, which baffles me!
    Anyone have a clue on what causes this or -better yet- an idea on how to fix it? I'm scared to drive this thing on the highway now!
  • alexis1alexis1 Member Posts: 1
    Just the other day my A4 1.8 Tip Quadro (2003) died out of no where, but I had no warning signs at all. No loud noises or lights. The car ran perfectly for the last 2 years up until I'm driving along (about to hit one of the busiest bridges in Western Mass) and the car just dies. Apparently it was the Fuel Pump and according the the dealership it was a "known" problem and is covered under warrantly(phew!). But it's still frustrating to pay all this money for a car that ups and dies on you after 2 years. Hopefully that is the only issue that caused the car to die--we shall see. .
  • simple2simple2 Member Posts: 16

    I believe this is an easy fix.
    Problem caused ,most likely ,by faulty Brake switch which is located on the brake pedal. That is why brake lights coming and staying ON. It is an AUDI safety future, if brake pedal depressed ( or switch malfunction) engine management module disables accelerator! Replace the switch and you will fix your problem.
    All this is assuming that you normally drive with your foot (or carpet perhaps) NOT resting
  • simple2simple2 Member Posts: 16

    I believe this is an easy fix.
    Problem caused ,most likely ,by faulty Brake switch which is located on the brake pedal. That is why brake lights coming and staying ON. It is an AUDI safety future, if brake pedal depressed ( or switch malfunction) engine management module disables accelerator! Replace the switch and you will fix your problem.
    All this is assuming that you normally drive with your foot (or carpet perhaps) NOT resting on the brake pedal as it will cause the same effect. Switch is fairly sensitive.
  • marleybarrmarleybarr Member Posts: 334
    Had the same turn signal problem. Replacing these parts did the trick.

    Audi part # 4bo-941-509-d-b98 emergency switch------- $29.90
    Audi part # 8 lo-953-513-j-01c turn signal switch-------- $65.07
  • jayb2005jayb2005 Member Posts: 2
    I have an A4 1.8SE (200) with a four speed Automatic Transmission. It has only got 33k on the clock. More and more frequently after driving in town traffic I'm getting very abrupt down and up changes which results in the car jerking alot through the changes. I took it to Audi and the car was on its best behaviour and did not put a foot wrong. On the drive home it started again! Anybody got some ideas on what the problem might be? I've had some people say it could be a control unit! It's also rough on start up and drinking petrol like its going out of fashion at the moment!
  • blantonjlblantonjl Member Posts: 1

    We experienced a problem to our 2002 1.8l A4 due to the oil sludge issue 6000 miles ago. We were very happy with the service and Audi taking care of the major repairs our engine required. Audi did cover all expenses since we preformed all maintenance at our dealer since purchase.

    Yesterday however we took our car to our dealer because the check engine light appeared (and because our wipers stopped working, which we have been told is a common problem-cost $400). We were extremely shocked and upset to hear our turbo needs to be completely replaced ($2850). Since the turbo was not replaced 6000 miles ago when we had the original oil sludge repairs, we immediately asked about the oil sludge issue, and the dealer said they would check with Audi. We are awaiting an answer Monday but have been told not to expect any assistance from Audi.

    We have been reviewing postings on this site and others and realize others have received an extended 5-year warranty and also from your response we understand that the turbo can be affected by the oil sludge.

    Would you please advise as to what action we should be taking? We love our Audi and planned on continuing to buy future Audi’s. Our car has only 70k miles and we feel we paid for a vehicle that operates under high standards.
  • auditechauditech Member Posts: 16
    No. The relay IS the hazard switch
  • auditechauditech Member Posts: 16
    You most likely have a plugged EVAP cannister. The fumes in your gas tank have to go through here as you fill up because they can't be released to the atmosphere......otherwise you need a gas tank.
  • auditechauditech Member Posts: 16
    Is there any way you can take a picture of it?
  • auditechauditech Member Posts: 16
    Your brake light switch is intermittently staying on/sticking. When this car see's the brake is being applied, it overrides the gas request.
  • auditechauditech Member Posts: 16
    Is there a 'new' driver in the car...have you let anyone else drive it recentely? Your transmission control module has an adaptive learning feature - designed to help the tranny shift more responsively as you go from a flat area to a mountainous area ..or if he is a heavy footed driver and she is light. You should take it to a dealer and have the basics/adaptation set on the throttle - blocks 60 and 63.
  • auditechauditech Member Posts: 16
    You were told you needed a new turbo? why? usually you'll have a total loss of power - it'll be gutless. The sludge can, affect the turbo, but i'd say it's more important to use synth oil + let the turbo cool down before shutting off your eng.. It's only nutz'n bolts so i would take it to a good independant greman shop if the price is killing ya. Be sure to ask the dealer if the turbo isn't covered under the emissions warranty which can cover some items to 7/70..
  • cpearsoncpearson Member Posts: 1
    I have two problems on my 2004 Audi A4 1.8T Multitronic. (Otherwise the car is great!) The first problem appears to be the simpler of the two. When I pull up at a traffic light or stop street, and come to a gradual stop, the gearbox appears to 'kick' into first gear (either just before the car comes to a halt, or just after), which makes the car jump forward slightly. Took it to the local dealer, but as luck would have it, the car didn't show the symptom during the test drive. It generally happens all the time though! The mechanic says he has no idea what this can be, and the computer tests didn't turn up anything. Any idea what might be causing this?

    My next problem is more annoying. Again, the mechanic couldn't reproduce the problem, even after keeping the car for a week of testing. What happens is that after a temporary stop (pulling up to an automatic gate, for example), when I apply pressure to the accellerator, the car doesn't move. Revs stay up, but there is absolutely no drive to the wheels. I have tried changing to S, to Park, back to drive, to reverse, and nothing. I even tried turning the ignition off, and then re-starting. Still no go. After about a minute or two, it seems to correct itself, especially if I rev it heavily for some seconds. Even then, the power comes back slowly, and not all at one go. This problem is also intermittent - and it happens about once every 2 weeks. And always within a few minutes of a cold start (temperature higher than 20 degrees celsius) , and on all occasions on a slight incline. (Not sure what difference that makes!) The only thing I can think of is that the second problem started occurring after towing a 1,1 metric ton boat, although the car/gearbox didn't seem to be in distress at all. Perhaps the gearbox oil is 'cooked'? (Not even sure if that can happen!) Can anyone out there please help, as the local dealers have no clue how to fix either of the problems.

    Many thanks in advance!
    Chris Pearson
  • darrenjadedarrenjade Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 Audi A4 130bhp tdi with multitronic gearbox.
    The car now has 14,000 miles.
    Since new I have complained to Audi about smoke problems.
    Under acceleration it kicks out huge amounts of black smoke.
    Despite being back to Audi 4 times with complaints the common reply is that they have put it on the computer and there is nothing wrong.
    My previous A4 (115bhp) and our 2 Passats (130bhp) had nothing like this - they were all manuals though.
    I also only get 38-40mpg - whereas my old Audi got 52mpg - I have not changed my driving style or routes.
    Any ideas please??

  • mikelsmikels Member Posts: 2
    What's the easiest way to take the dash panel off to access the hazard switch

  • jqocjqoc Member Posts: 1
    I just got a used A4 1.8T (1999 with 82000 miles). It runs great. However, when I turn on the engine and leave the shift (automatic shift) at D, D3, D2, or R, the driving wheel vibrates. You can feel it when you put your hands on the wheel or dashboard. If I put it at neutral, there is no vibration. Is it a transmission problem? The idle of the engine speed is around 800 rpm. Is it too high? Also I was trying to find a place to check transmission fluid, but could not find it and the manual does not mention transmission fluid either. Is Audi different from other cars?
  • hydrocarbonhydrocarbon Member Posts: 16
    From your post, I doubt that your problem is related to the gas pump, but sometimes the "gas pump stopping" problem is not caused by the car. There is a good website(google Husky) which describes the operation of gas pump safety shutoffs.
    There is a thin, open-ended tube in the nozzle of a gas pump, running up the inside of the nozzle and which leads back to a diaphragm in the gas pump handle. The diaphragm serves as the actuator for the automatic shutoff valve. Also connected to the same side of the diaphragm are the low pressure ports of a venturi tube. During normal operation, the gasoline flowing through the venturi induces flow of vapor from the tube back to the diapragm.
    If the tube becomes clogged or flow is choked off, a vacuum condition is created, and the imbalance of force across the diaphragm closes the gas supply valve. The tube can become clogged from particulate matter, or peening of the nozzle tip.
    I had this happen to me many times in Mexico, Turkey and India, where the pumps were often in bad shape. Like I said, I doubt it's your problem, but it is at least interesting to know how the shutoff valve on a gas pump works.
  • hydrocarbonhydrocarbon Member Posts: 16
  • alexs4alexs4 Member Posts: 3
    I love my new 2005 S4. Even though I've already had to take it in for some sensor problems. I jumped a hill going about 90MPH and scraped up the bottom. Now I have an oil leak, like a week later. Do you think it's related? And how should I deal with it? Take it to the dealer or someplace else? It's on lease, are they going to be mad about the scrapes, etc?
  • marleybarrmarleybarr Member Posts: 334
    I don't believe the selling/leasing dealer will put this car on a hoist and look underneath at the end of the lease.I believe it is a walk around and check inside for warning lights on, torn leather seats, etc.

    However, when brought in for an oil change, or most any kind of service, the scrapes and the oil leak will be noticed immediately. This would be noted in the service file if brought to the dealer and will probably cost you money at lease end for extra "wear and tear."

    You will have to decide whether to bring this issue, which probably is a non-warranty repair, (when they see the scrapes) to the dealer , or to an independent garage. The problem is, you may have a very hard time finding an independent that can deal with something as serious as an oil leak in a 2005 S4. I have heard that parts are in short supply for this model and your car could be tied up for a long time waiting for a specialty part.
  • alexs4alexs4 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, But do you think that the oil leak has to do with the accident?
  • veronikaveronika Member Posts: 2
    Hi dl7265

    I have a 2003 A4 1.8tQ @ 31K miles and the first 2 years the car was great. Sept or Oct of last year I start having the same problems as your friend has- some times the start up is rough and the engine surges. Went to the dealer the same week and they ran all the necessary tests and told me that they couldn't find anything wrong w/ the car and most likely it is bad gas. I changed the gas station that I usually go to (Shell and I only go to Shell) and everything was o.k. for 2 -3 months and then again the same problem. Changed the gas station again this week and will see how it's goes. I don't think it's a bad gas, but the dealer couldn't replicate the problem. I called Audi Customer Relation 2 days ago and they told me to change the dealership and that they can't help me. I'm sure there are other Audi's owners experiencing the same problem and it will be very helpful if anybody had this problem and it was fixed. It looks like the dealer don't know how to fix it. DL7265- has your friend found a way to fix the problem? Thank you. :confuse:
  • jsimmonsjsimmons Member Posts: 2
    I have 1999 A4 Quattro 2.8L. It just started showing a warning indicator that I have no idea what it is. I've searched everywhere I can't find anything on it. It's a circle with interrupted parenthesis on both sides, (O) kind of like this. It is not running any differently in any respect, so I'm not sure if I need to be concerned.
  • woodyboneswoodybones Member Posts: 1

    Have just purchase the same car but with a six speed manual box, I have the same problem, I was just looking on various web sites to see if there were any problems of this sort prior to going to see my local Audi dealer. I am getting the same mpg, I have not sen many other Audi A4's blowing out black smoke.

    Any help would be welcome.

    Phil :(:(:(
  • darrenjadedarrenjade Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2004 Audi 1.9tdi 130bhp with the multi tronic gearbox.
    This has done 14000 miles now but has been very smoky since new.
    I have had it back 4 times to 2 garages and they all say - "the machine says its fine - diesels do smoke".
    I had a 115bhp manual before this and we ran 2 Passats for 50,000 miles with none of these problems.
    It is also low on economy returning under 40mpg - when my previous did 50mpg+.
    I suspect it is the gearbox loadin the engine too much and the engine re-tuned for torque at lower revs.
    Any ideas please as its getting embaressing with the smoke on a £28k car.
    Many thanks
    Darren Jade
  • darrenjadedarrenjade Member Posts: 3
    No most Audis seem fine.
    I did see 1 that was like mine but could not get its registration.
    I am thinking about throwing a challenge down to my dealer to pick any diesel in the car park and we will compare them under load.
    I know which will smoke the heaviest.
    If I get time early next week I may do this.
    Surely there is someone technical out there can help??
  • jayb2005jayb2005 Member Posts: 2
    There isn't a new driver. But, I'll take it back to Audi and get them to look at it. Someone suggested getting the gearbox oil chnaged too. Is it worth getting it done while it's in? While I'm thinking about it, just before I bought the car it had a dead battery. The dealer changed it but would this cause any problems (the dealer wasn't an Audi one)
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    Is your parking brake fully off? I think that is the indicator that the parking brake is set from the description.
  • jsimmonsjsimmons Member Posts: 2
    I've checked that. It's all the way down, but the sensor could be not recognizing it. Is that the Indicator light for the Parking Brake?
  • jboomjboom Member Posts: 5
    Hello, I just bought a used 98 A4 quattro sedan, and before I bought it, I heard nothing but good about this car. Now after, a few people have been telling me things that make me a little weary. This car has 85k miles on it, did I make a bad investment and should I be worried?
  • audiluvraudiluvr Member Posts: 2
    :cry: Hi, I hope someone out there can help. My 98 A4 Avant wagon is running beautifully but about 3 weeks ago the oil pressure indicator along with the ABS and Brake lights came on (all at the same time), took it to local Audi dealership for service--had an oil service, brake check, and etc. Everything check out fine, the tech couldn't figure out what the problem was--called Audi tech support they said I needed a new instrument cluster. Instrument cluster replaced--same problem! Now when all three lights come on the RPM read out goes straight to null (like the car is not even running) all of this happens at once.
    All of this lasts for about twenty minutes if I don't stop at a red light and if I do the oil pressure light goes off but comes back on once I start driving again.
    Oh, and now my motorized driver's seat won't move either!!!

    Any ideas so I can pass them onto my dealership. Thanks
  • erixerix Member Posts: 3
    You guys are geniuses, thank you both a ton! It was the brake switch and after fiddling with it for a bit it was fine.. for a while... until the switch went on the blink again :)
    How easy is it to replace the switch yourself? I'm wondering if i'm any better off making this a DIY affair vs getting bent over at the local Audi stealer. I'm used to working on Hondas inside and out (I know, I know, fairly primitive compared to the Audi tech) so I'm not completely useless. Has anyone here attempted this?
  • erixerix Member Posts: 3
    At the risk of sounding like a fool and being far too vague, it sounds like you could have one hell of a short or a loose connector. Maybe a continuity test between the instrument cluster harness and the module(s) that control the individual systems indicated as failing would be in order.
    Do you mean that after twenty minutes of driving the problem starts or after twenty minutes it returns to normal?
  • simple2simple2 Member Posts: 16

    I am car technician in the past as well. But have not done it for a while now.
    However it fells great to get my hands in the engine bay of my AUDI.
    In regards to the switch, my were replaced by AUDI under warranty. I remember looking for it and it was a fairly easy to replace. If you can get the replacement switch and have a set of tools handy, I will be surprised if it will take you more than 15-20 minutes.

    AUDI A4 1.8T Quattro
  • audiluvraudiluvr Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for responding...
    After twenty minutes it returns to normal.
    And there's nothing as too vague or sounding like a this point I'll take all of the help that I can give my Audi tech :)
  • 99quattro99quattro Member Posts: 4
    I had the same problem. Its your low pad indicator on your front pads. Other cars have metal indicators on the pad themelves so you can hear it, the Audi has wires that stick out of them and you plug in. I replace them myself last night, took me less than an hour. Pep Boys had them in stock for $53.00. The dealer wanted $250.00 installed. You should change them soon before the rotors get damaged.
  • villalobosvillalobos Member Posts: 27
    It might be the oil pan at the bottom of the engine, in which case you should get it fixed.
  • kaymarkaymar Member Posts: 3
    I recently ( a week ago) bought a 2005 A4 1.8T Cabriolet - gorgeous, lovely car, but it either came delivered with or quickly developed a blown fuse - although I was initially proud of myself for correctly diagnosing why my cell phone wouldn't charge and the cigarette lighter wouldn't pop up, I'm now wondering if this might be a sign of larger electrical issues. Have others had an issue with blown fuses in this car?
  • jonetta913jonetta913 Member Posts: 2
    Recently my ABS/Brake light has been coming on and off and my check engine light has started to come on. No one can get the machine to read my ABS light and the check engine light always says the gas cap isnt screwed on properly (which they are). Sometimes my car starts sort of "weak" and seems like it is not getting enough power (almost acts like there is a weak battery but there is not). The last thing is I was driving down the road and my sun roof just opened 1/4 the way and would not shut more than 3/4. I had to lock my car with the key in the door and shut it that way. Any suggestions or ideas what the problem could be? My car runs and drives great but there seems to be some electrical issues....
  • groveaudigroveaudi Member Posts: 1
    My 97 A4 1.8Lturbo had the low oil pressure light on, the car is now at the dealer, and I'm being told of sludge building up problems. My engine did not seize.
    Can I ask how your situation ended up, and what suggestions you have for me to get Audi to pay for this?
    I will try to get oil change records, but want to know how hard I can press.
  • marleybarrmarleybarr Member Posts: 334
    Whether or not the oil leak was caused by the accident doesn't matter. What matters is what the dealership THINKS caused the oil leak. You are driving a very expensive car that is extemely expensive to repair. If the scrapes lead the dealer to believe the "mishap" caused the oil leak, then the repair will be "out of pocket" and will probably run into the thousands of dollars to repair. This is the issue that you are facing.
  • demons93demons93 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 A-4 1.8T (automatic tranny) w/107K miles. Great car, still gets 30 miles a gallon on the Hgwy. Anyway while driving yesterday morning, I changed lanes in preparation for turning into a parking lot. As soon as I took my foot off the gas and stepped on the brake, the engine died. I threw it into Neutral and restarted immediately. My wife had the same issue 2 days prior to me.

    Anyone else have this problem? As great a car as it is, I'd rather dump it than start spending major $$$. Is it worth going to the dealership and getting a diagnostic, or is this a common enough problem that there is some knowledge on this board...

    Thanks, in advance. J.V.
  • 99quattro99quattro Member Posts: 4
    Go to any auto parts store and have them check the battery for free. My truck did the same thing.
  • daleodaleo Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 Audi A4 2.8L was in the shop for the third time because smoke kept coming out of the left front tire well. We had spent $2000 on two different repairs but the problem was still there. While the dealer was test driving it, it caught on fire and was totaled. Has anyone else had a problem similar to this?
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