Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • fitrider82fitrider82 Member Posts: 2
    Just had to let you know that I made an account on this site just so I could tell you what i've experienced. I stumbled across this post looking for some Audi parts because I'm prepping her to go up for sale.
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Member Posts: 4,600
    Thanks for all the information and the heads up. How many miles does your car have?
  • jimmy4802jimmy4802 Member Posts: 8
    1998 audi A4 quattro 1-8 turbo. I have a brake fliud leak that i cant find?? it seems to be dripping down about the middle of the engine and off the trans pan. from the top i see no leaking around the master cylinder or brake booster. no fluid in the basin where the battery is. how do i know if it is the master cyl or the brake booster or a brake line going to the pass side front wheel?
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hi jimmy: Are you sure it's brake fluid and not engine oil? Not sure how b.f. would be dripping down the side of the engine. If it's oil, then might check the valve cover gasket...common problem with older Audis. vwdawg
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    if it IS brake fluid, you may have to lift the car and look for some brake line junction block that could be leaking.
  • jimmy4802jimmy4802 Member Posts: 8
    I'm almost positive its brake fluid. it difficult to see but it seems to be coming down and dripping off the transmission pan. I replaced a front caliper, both front flexy brake hoses and new pads all around. My son and I just put in a new rack. This car is a fixer upper. the brake pedal goes to the floor when we tried to bleed all 4. then the dripping starts. i'm thinking we damaged the line to the front pass wheel, if its inside the rack housing? or coming from the master cyl or power booster. there's no fluid i can see from from the booster or cylinder but could it leak from behind?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Yeah, it can leak from the back of the brake booster but usually this leak show up INSIDE the car, where the push rod from the brake pedal goes through the firewall.

    it's possible a brake line could anchor to a steering rack housing, but I can't say without having the car in front of me.
  • madisongreyartmadisongreyart Member Posts: 1

    The reason this post is sooo long is because I can't make it any shorter and tell this story. I literally just signed up and became a member of this site just so I could reply to your Audi post... First of all I gotta say... be thankful your Audi isn't the one I have haha... ALL the crazy problems I've had with my 98 Audi a4 quattro 1.8T 5speed after only having it for 4 month will never happen to me agian because I know it's not possible for another car to pull this kind of Bullsh** on me twice in a lifetime!!! I have to say say this first... I'm a 23 year old girl from Green bay, Wisconsin. I'm CONSTANTLY fixing cars... I have a 1989 Porsche 944 that keeps falling but I keep fixing that one... A 1998 Audi is not an old car by any means but I don't know what to say when the car that is the same age as me makes my new foreign sports car look like a cheap toy! I've also owned a 2000 BMW M Roadster... 2 years older than the Audi and the quality difference between the two is a joke... Yeah Jokes on me & I sure as hell am NOT laughing! The part that gets to me the most is for some crazy reason i LIKE this car and not sure why but I really wan't to keep it running... haha I will have to sell that before the end... Unless I get myself a couple parts cars.

    Here we go........ The first time I noticed that something wasn't quite right with that car is WORD FOR WORD what you posted about the "flashing red light". I'd go over a bump and BEEP BEEP (and from ONLY owning high $$ maintenance foreign sports cars in my life) That bad feeling I get from my cars when I just KNOW a prepare is imitate... hit me like a swift kick in the balls after only have the car for 2 weeks... So a couple weeks after that my rear break caliber started leaking tons of break fluid. I replaced it and had to bleed all of my breaks. Then within a couple weeks of that out of nowhere at a stoplight... The car was idling just fine but then while letting off the clutch... the more throttle I gave she would try to choke out and stall unless I quickly pushed in the clutch... So what the hell now right?!? I Had to tow her A** home and luckily I figured out what was wrong before I took her in to a mechanic. The hoses on my turbo for air intake weren't "air tight" there was an air leak. I fixed that myself. The red break like still goes off but now from back end of my engine pretty much under my dashboard a metal pipe directly attatched to my radiator is leaking massive amounts of break fluid. Just a simple O ring I'm sure... But there is NO WAY I can get to that pipe myself and replace the seal... Oh well I guess I'm stuck filling up the coolant tank FOREVER. While all these events were unfolding before my eyes I've been noticing a "pop" sound coming from the back end of the car right as I shift between the first 3 gears... COOL pretty sure my car is now backfiring and It keeps getting a little louder with every POP. Oh and I forgot that something suspension related is making one of the most god awful moaning noise I've ever heard on the driver's side and OH I think the other side is starting to make the noise now too... hahahaha OK well at least the car runs... I'll give it that.. Trying to be positive. It's AWD and a Wisconsin winter is 2 months away.

    Few days later my clutch goes....

    I got that car this year for the 4th of july and I ended up having to push her home right when football season started...

    I'd really like to hear someone top that story...


    That car is getting fixed right now and I'll have her back for Christmas...

    I've NEVER experienced anything like this before and just threw me off to point where I'm more confused than anything because It all happened sooo fast. That car is coming back into my life within the week... and starting to feel a touch of anxiety because I almost think that car might actually be self aware with a terrible sense of humor and something big planned for me....

    hahahaha I own the Audi from hell and I really wanted to share this.

    At least your Audi isn't THIS Audi.... Good luck.
  • jimmy4802jimmy4802 Member Posts: 8
    To err is human. Appears to be coolant leaking from a hose on the back side of the engine. Very weak cooland as it is almost a clear color. It's got a hue of pink to it.I'm going to bleed the brakes again. The bleeder screw are bigger than most US cars and I had trouble getting a hose to fit tight. Than I guess i will fix the coolant, flush and fill. Thanks!
  • coreycink15coreycink15 Member Posts: 2

    I got a flat tire tonight. I cannot get the damned thing off. I got it jacked up and off the ground, and all five lug nuts off and it would not bug, it was so tight it felt like it is welded on. I called my dad as i wasnt somewhere with a computer and he found something on youtube that said to use the black plastic peg from the tool kit and insert it in place of a lug nut and than slide the tire off. I tried this and still found the tire to be snug as can be. Has anyone one experienced the same problem or have any idea how to get it off? it is a rear tire on an '02 a4 quattro. I got the black peg very far in there and couldnt see any difference between any of the holes for the lugs or any label that shows the peg needing to be placed in a certain hole. oh yeah and my glove box mechanism is broke so my manual is stuck in the glove box. PLEASE HELP!
  • jimmy4802jimmy4802 Member Posts: 8
    Well, first i would suggest LOOSENING the lugs when the car is still on the ground. Then jack it up and take the lugs and wheel off. Mine were on really tight also. They are bolts, not lug nuts. I ended up at a Menards or a cheap tool store and bought a 1/2" drive breaker bar for $6 and a 17mm socket to fit it, and used a long pipe for leverage. make sure you know which way they come off. I also put some anti-seize compound before i put them back on. after reading your post, I think the black plastic peg would be to line up the hub with the rotor then slide the wheel over that and put in 4 lugs, remove the peg and put in the last lug????? because lining up all three to put in a lug bolt is a pain!! Good luck
  • mercopsmercops Member Posts: 34
    edited January 2012
    Since you have gotten all 5 lug screws removed you should be able to remove the rim and tire. However, it sounds like your problem is related to a simple cause...corrosion! The tire rim rides on the center of the the rear brake disc hub and is suspect to corrosion build up, which will cause the rim to stick very tightly to the hub. Try a few drops of penetrating oil and a few gentle raps (under score gentle) with a hammer on the hub center. Give the penetrating oil a few minutes to work before attempting to loosen the rim. Additionally after you get the rim removed, clean the penetrating oil from the hub area and rim, gently wire brush the mating surfaces and wipe clean.
  • sandytheksandythek Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know of a good Audi repair shop on the north shore of Boston?

    Also, the Air Bag warning light in my 2001 Audi A4 Quattro just came on and has stayed on. Has anyone experienced this? Could it mean I will need a new airbag or maybe just a sensor/electric problem?
  • rhinocerosbrhinocerosb Member Posts: 1
    When I press on the gas, it revs up and dies. Can anyone help with this diagnosis, The check engine light is ON but the scanner cannot communicate with the computer and get a code.
  • tylerwitha4tylerwitha4 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone recognize what this warning might be? It popped up on the lined-out instrument cluster on my 2001 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro on the way home tonight. Any help is very, very much appreciated.

  • highviewhighview Member Posts: 1
    edited June 2012
    5 days ago the ABS light and check engine light illuminated and I lost spedometer reading. Drove straight to Audi dealer. Checked wiring, OK. Checked sensor, OK. Problem returned. Replaced sensor ($450) to confirm new reading (some corrosion noted on orig. sensor). All OK. Problem returned. ABS light still illuminated. Re-checked wiring, OK. Now replacing ABS sensor ($1400). Going in expensive circles here! I'm told module failure is rare at >2%. What might cause? No re-conditioned parts available. Frustrated. *trust the dealer. Have serviced the car since purchase in 2007. 145km. Advice appreciated. Thx Much."">
  • escortownerescortowner Member Posts: 132
    Interesting. I guess my story is a little different, maybe not as narrative but here it goes....

    2009 Audi A4 Quattro Prestige. My car's oil light would come on every 2000 miles or so. I got tired of putting oil in and one time at the dealership I mentioned it to the service rep and he said that the can run some tests for that. So I took him up on it. Im sure many are familiar with the oil consumption issue with the engines by now so I will skip the fun commentary and simply state that they measured my car to be burning 0.48L/1000 miles. So, they replaced the pistons and piston rings.

    Then, unrelated to that a month later they replaced the radiator fan and motor mount. A few weeks later, not so major the amplifier had to be replaced ($2k)....damn expensive. Shortly thereafter, I couldn't get my sunroof to close so they replaced the sunroof frame. SWEET. so in about 4 months I had all those repairs, and then one more time, my car wouldn't run shaft. New Cam Shaft. Oh yeah, one more thing, when the cam shaft got finished being repaired the battery died so new battery ( I guess that's normal right the car is 3-years old).

    So, on a 2009 A4 I had about $10k in repairs over a 6-month period.

    The sucker I am I sold it back and bought another one.
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    Hmm. I've owned my 24k mile 2009 CPO A4 Avant two weeks and I just had the 'add oil' light come on two days ago. I put in 3/4 of a quart and, interestingly, now it says "no oil information to display". WTH is that??

    I do have 3 years and 76k more miles of warranty, though.
  • porsche14porsche14 Member Posts: 1
    just got my third check engine light in three months, on July 4. Have already had fuel pump replaced at 76,000 miles, after they originally thought it was the gas cap and fuel filter. they tried to soak me for the fuel pump,but I had a warranty-wasn't out the $600, that time. wonder what they are going to say it is this time. I am asking for the factory rep to inspect. A $50,000 car shouldn't have these problems.
  • yellpestyellpest Member Posts: 1
    Hi I have the same problem. You say just remove the panel and the relay is there, but which one is it as there are 3 different banks of relays. thank for yor help
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    you have just replied to a 7 year-old message. I very seriously doubt that the user 'hydrocarbon' is going to come back and reply to you, seeing as his last post on Edmunds was 2006.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H EdmundsAdministrator Posts: 11,132
    True, but you never know when info is going to be helpful to another member, years later.


    Need help navigating? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • I have a 2010 A4 Quatro auto Premium Plus with Nav with 29k miles. Lease ends in 3 weeks but engine was using 1qt oil for 1,500 miles, dealer did TB and now went from max to just above min in about 3,800 miles. Question is should I buy it out for $22,500, buy it and get extended service plan (and how much) or should I walk away. Really love the car. Thanks
  • amkmeco90amkmeco90 Member Posts: 17
    first of all do you mean by TB the timing belt?
  • Good question. Technical Bulletin. When I complained about the oil usage they advised this was first step to correct. Did scope test on engine, drove 1k, then they did the tech bulletin replacing a seal. Next would be "ring job" on the valves.
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    Hmm, I have excessive oil consumption on my CPO 2009 A4 Avant as well. I only have 25k miles on it, I bet it is the same stinkin seal... :mad:

    Anyway, what's the price of the extended warranty? The Audi care service plan is definitely not worth buying because that is just pre-paid maintenance. To hell with that! Get your routine work done at an independent shop, it will b tons cheaper.
  • amkmeco90amkmeco90 Member Posts: 17
    i've the same problem for my 09 Q5 and thought it is all the case with the Audi. i've an 02 A4 3.0 and has the same problem. probably on next visit to the dealer i'd tell them about that oil usage and see. For your question about keeping your car: in my opinion, Audis are great cars and they are fun to drive and whenever you drive it, you feel the car is really hugging the road. so if you wanna keep it, keep in mind that it's an expensive to maintain so as not to regret doing so when something big happens. I had a 2010 subaru forester and i traded it for the Q5. i know i was a little fool to do that but i couldn't resist Audi. the only thing to keep in mind is the maintenance costs.
  • jimmy4802jimmy4802 Member Posts: 8
    I bought this fixer upper and have been at it for 8 months. The only key i was given works in the ignition and door locks but i only have the metal key part and the bottom half of the fob. No lock or unlock button. So i bought the correct fob online according to the VIN and took it to the only guy in town to cut the key. He said it wont work until i program it but we put it in the car and it started right up. he thought there was something strange about it starting the car without programming it? I have tried to program the new fob and can't get it to work to lock and unlock the doors at all using the buttons? both keys will lock and unlock and start the car but the new one with the whole fob, the buttons dont work? the power locks work from inside the car also. Anybody have any suggestions??
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    I had the work done on my 2009 A4 Avant 2.0T.

    It would go from max to min on the electronic oil level indicator in 1,000 - 1,200 miles, which is about a quart of oil. There were no spots where I park.

    Which is interesting, because the TSB replaces a crankshaft seal. I am not familiar with Audi's inline four, but normally this type of seal would weep out of the front or rear of the engine block. The service writer wasn't very interested in discussing the specifics, but otherwise I had a great experience.

    I travelled from out of town to my 'local' dealership and they did the TSB in less than 5 hours. They also reprogrammed the ECU and advised me to give it full throttle at least once a day. No problem there. ;):D
  • ffeldyffeldy Member Posts: 1
    I live in Shoreham vermont and am in need of help. Audi keeps conking out, I have brought it to mechanics, but they cant figure it out. I am in need of a good mechanic in this area that knows these cars. Any suggestions?
  • wilnerwilner californiaMember Posts: 34
    i have the same problem as yours every year i'm always replacing the battery with a new one. this auto repair center that i always have my battery replace suggested to see an auto electrical shop to diagnos what causes the battery drains. the techician here suggested that i could test the alternator by pulling out the positive post when the engine is running so i did and yes the engine still running when i pulled out the clamp from the positive post, that means no problem with the alternator. so there is really something that causing the battery drains everyday from the engine. i have a 1999 a4 2.8 quattro v6. mr wahenika, please help me what the technician found out when you have your audi brought to the electrical shop. thank you very much.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    A technician told you to do that? GEESH! Please, don't EVER try to test an alternator that way. You could cause severe damage to the ECM, the alternator and who knows what else. VERY bad advice! :cry:
  • audidadaudidad Member Posts: 4
    I think I have similar problem, but can only read the response not the question in post 2210. Mine started fine three times on a cold day, then after sitting overnight the engine starts but then stops running after 1 or 2 seconds. Changing the FPR does not look difficult, if this is the problem. But how does the fuel get pressurized again before starting with the new FPR installed?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    The pump pressurizes it.
  • audidadaudidad Member Posts: 4
    OK. I was able to read post 2209 and my problem seems a little different. When I turn the key the engine revs right up but then stops after the initial rev. I try pumping the gas right away but the result is the same, the engine just cuts out. Have tried it 8-10 times and same happens each time. I just bought the car and it ran fine when I test drove it and picked it up. Sat overnight in the cold and now does not start past the initial rev when I turn the key. Does that sound like it could be the fuel pressure regulator? I appreciate the input!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Do you think it's related to releasing the ignition key? What I mean is, does the stalling coincide with taking your hand off the key or start button?
  • audidadaudidad Member Posts: 4
    I turned the key all the way forward and the engine starts, and when I released the key back to the run position, the engine stops. Then I turned the key all the way forward and kept it in the start position (did not release it back to run position) and the engine started up, then stopped and the engine continued to crank but would not start up again.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Might be good to borrow a scan tool if you can. The possibilities here are numerous.

    I wonder what would happen if you sprayed some starting fluid into the air cleaner, if it would start right up again? It would be good to know at least if the engine is losing fuel or losing spark. If it would start repeatedly each time you sprayed starting fluid, then you'd pretty much suspect a fuel cutoff.

    I suppose you could buy one of those very inexpensive spark testers and have someone crank the car over when it isn't starting.
  • audidadaudidad Member Posts: 4
    The mystery may be solved. I spoke to the seller that I just bought the car from. He thinks the problem is that I first tried to start it the next morning with the black plastic key instead of the metal key. He thinks the key needs to be re-programmed. Does that sound reasonable? I guess there is lots for me to learn.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    that doesn't really make sense to me, but do you have another key to try?
  • ziggy25aziggy25a Member Posts: 24
    mercops, while much of your message is correct, I need to point out some significant inaccuracies there. No, it is rare that ANY OEM parts are patented, or trademarked. A patent for an alternator? A windshield? No. For a new drug, for a then new type of coating for cooking pans (Teflon)? Yes, those are novel inventions which are patented.

    To better illustrate, I will ask you to post any patent number (patent information is public and is searchable on google) for any Audi windshield. Can you post a single lawsuit that Audi has ever filed again another windshield maker to protect their "patent"? The answers to both will be no, because there is no patent or trademark involved with their windshields.

    A trademark has more to do typically with a logo or slogan. The Audi rings are a trademark for example. The Audi windshield is certainly not a trademark.

    What is true is that aftermarket products vary in quality. I personally have had 4 windshields replaced in my various cars history, and I can say that all of them were aftermarket non OEM glass. I would challenge anyone to notice ANY difference. Might one of them be 1 millimeter wider? Sure, no question. Would that make any significant difference to a consumer? No. Could there be some aftermarket brands that are substandard? Sure, I suppose so. In my experience, the only difference I noticed on one was the amount of tinting at the top of windshield being slightly different. Not better or worse, just different.

    If you want to tell me that an Audi alternator has better electronic components, and higher quality bearings, than aftermarket brands. Sure, that is probably true. But for automotive glass? This is glass, we are talking, there is little technology here.
  • dnvnduelasdnvnduelas Member Posts: 1
    Hello everybody, I am shopping around for Audi A4 Avants ranging from the 2005-2008 models. I was wondering if anybody has any experience with these cars, in terms of maintenance and upkeep? I've been told by somebody that these cars require a certain service every 30000 miles, other than just an oil change, that is very pricy. Could anybody give me some insight? I would greatly appreciate any help you can offer.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Here's a complete Audi maintenance schedule for 2005 models:

    2005 Audi A4 Maintenance

    Sounds like you are referring to the 35,000 mile checkup.

    Audis do tend to be a bit maintenance intensive. I suppose if you went to the dealer for this 35,000 mile check, it would be pricey, but perhaps less so at a good independent shop. You might take this list to an indy shop you are thinking of using and get a quote.
  • rebuiltaudirebuiltaudi Member Posts: 1
    Pretty sure that it sounds like you may be leaking from your clutch slave cylinder, it should be sticking out of the top of your transmission and facing the engine, with a perpendicular bleeder valve.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    I thought of that but he (the original poster with the problem) said his brake pedal goes to the floor.
  • eddie650eddie650 Member Posts: 26

    I have a 2005 Audi A4 Cabriolet with about 103,000 miles and was wondering when the main pulley gets replaced. I was told that it was the pulley that was causing an engine noise I hear, but I was told it didn't need to be replaced yet. It's a growl type noise and sounds worse for some reason when I am turning out of or into my garage and when I have the car in "Drive".

Sign In or Register to comment.