Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • a4enthusiast7a4enthusiast7 Member Posts: 3
    there is a leak coming from something next to the front right tire, the fluid is dark brown, prob. oil, and is dripping onto the ground next to the tire. I do not remember running over anything, any ideas on what could be causing this?
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    Steering rack leak or perhaps a torn CV boot letting the grease drip out. I suspect they are the most likely candidates given that it's so far out by the tire.
  • a4enthusiast7a4enthusiast7 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks. They both sound feasible and much less expensive than the other problems I thought it could be.
  • abigbottomturnabigbottomturn Member Posts: 2
    just got some bad news, noticed oil in the coolant resivor, i am not a mechanic this car is a 99 a-4 and only has 130,000mi. the mechanic who i took the car to told me to replace the radiator is about 800.00, and of course does not guarantee that is the problem, is it possible for oil to get into the coolant, is there a oil cooler in the radiator? is there a test that can test for this issue, i sure could use some answers please.
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    Is the car an automatic or manual? If it's an automatic it could be transmission fluid in your coolant since the cooler for that transmission is part of the radiator. If not it could be a bad head-gasket having nothing to to with the radiator at all. Unless you can determine exactly what kind of oil your seeing in the coolant you need to dig a bit more to figure out exactly what is causing the problem.

    To determine if it could be a head-gasket you need a compression leak down test to ensure that your not getting engine oil in the coolant. I hate the idea of just throwing parts at a problem based on a guess, it can get very expensive and still not remedy the real issue.

    Good luck finding out what the real problem is.
  • swj1218swj1218 Member Posts: 4
    :D I have an 03 A4 Quattro automatic. I just passed the 100,000 mile mark and so far the only major problem i've had is replacing tires to quickly.

    I am noticing a noise though, or more like a vibration when i'm in drive, but stopped. Like it seems like its idling to high when in gear, its hard to explain. When its in neutral it seems fine. But when I slow down, then come to a full stop the car starts to vibrate a little. It's weird.
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    Have you ever had your coil packs replaced? I believe there may be a recall for your year. You should contact an Audi dealer with your VIN number and see if you are affected as it may help with your issue.
  • rmutt2000rmutt2000 Member Posts: 3
    Recently had the:
    Timing Belt service/replaced
    Water Pump replacement
    Coolant Flange replaced
    Rear Transmission seals
    Cam Shaft Seals
    Oil Change

    The oil pressure light was coming on after this work was done, but the mechanic assured me it was fine and that it was probably just the sensor.

    Noticed the noise after driving on the freeway for 40 minutes. The first I had driven it since the mechanics. Immediately pulled over. No other engine lights were coming on. The engine temperature gauge was normal. The oil level was normal. Started up the car once more to record this video.

    Any ideas what this could be?

  • rmutt2000rmutt2000 Member Posts: 3
    Its a 2004 Avant 1.8 Turbo.
  • rmutt2000rmutt2000 Member Posts: 3
  • bettysdadbettysdad Member Posts: 2
  • bettysdadbettysdad Member Posts: 2
    I need to replace the front passenger door contact switch on my 2001 A4.

    I know it's in the latch.

    Can I get the latch out just loosening the two bolts, or do have to do major work which means my mechanic does it?
  • petergon1petergon1 Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me how to get to the top bolt on the rear shocks on a 2007 A3 FWD.
    Need to change the Shocks and they don't make it ez.
    Thanks for your time. :shades: :shades:
  • a4auditqa4auditq Member Posts: 1
    a couple days ago i was involved in a crash and my front end is pushed in pretty bad.. my car leaked very fast green liquid i know the antifreeze isnt supposed to be that color but it was .. my question is i need a new what? do i need a new like antifreeze gasket for it im just not sure what its called that i need and about how much it will cost me? :sick:
  • swj1218swj1218 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advise. Sorry it took so long to reply. The Coil packs did need to be replaced, and they were covered by the recall, along with a safety recall that has been put out for all our fuel pumps. Audi took care of it without problem. Or so I thought. Apparently my car had an after market coil pack. The wires apparently got fried and melted causing my after market coil pack to fail.... But Audi is going to take care of the fuel pack anyway for me. but have to now charge me 300 dollars to replace some wires.

    Now if my coil pack was after market (mind you i have no idea if it is or isn't cause i bought it used) then why would they replace it in the first place? I think i'm getting screwed.
  • swj1218swj1218 Member Posts: 4
    I have a A4 Quattro. Just had the Coil pack and the fuel pump replaced due to a recall. My Coil pack failed on me last week, and there is a safety recall on most if not all our Audi's for both the coil pack and the fuel pump.

    The dealer ship is telling me that my coil pack is after market. Could be could not be i have no idea. I bought it used six months ago. So the coil pack is aftermarket but they are going to take care of it anyway. Now they're telling me that that because of my coil pack failing it caused some wires to melt which they have to charge me 300 bucks to fix..... hmmm slightly confused. why would they fix an "aftermarket" part. A part thats not Audi's for free and not the other damaged it caused? Something tells me that they wanted money.

    Yesterday I was called again by Audi service. The technician told me that they're waiting for a part and it would still cost me 300 dollars, and the car would be done by the next day. I get call today notifying me that the car was done and its going to cost me almost 100 dollars more then what he had quoted me over the phone. Naturally I got slightly upset because not only did they go over what they had quoted me, they did more work to my car without notifying me that they were doing so and that there was a price difference.

    After I calmly told him that i believe what they are doing, or did was illegal he quickly told me he would talk to his manager and try and take care of it.

    When I go to pick up my car. I'd like to see my "aftermarket" coil pack that they needed to take off. Do any of you know if there are any markings on the coil pack that would tell me if it were truly an after market one?

    Sorry for the extremely long post. Just pisst. I feel as though i'm not so gently being effd.
  • mercopsmercops Member Posts: 34
    There is a great illustrated commentary on this at the following website. Give it a look and see it possibly answers your question.

  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    Can't comment on the wires being fried or not but if it was and needed replacement that $300 does not surprise me at dealership rates. On the matter of them changing the coil packs anyway it's just part of the recall and you are likely better off having 4 new ones of the same vintage on the car.
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    edited March 2010
    What year and mileage is your Audi?

    I would not drive the car another inch with that sound, frankly I think your mechanic is incompetent letting you get the car to this point after so many expensive repairs. I am afraid that what your looking at could be a sludge issue in that oil is not making it to the top of the engine due to a clogged pick-up inside the oil pan.

    If it is sludge the oil pan has to be dropped and things cleaned up. Hopefully the damage to the valves etc... is not as bad as it sounds and that the cleaning does the trick. Once the repair is made all future oil changes should be with only approved synthetic oils (such as Mobil1 European Car Formula) so as not to have the engine sludge up again.

    Good luck with that and I hope the simple cleaning does the trick for you.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    edited March 2010
    Oil starvation in upper engine---camshaft, lifters, etc.

    Get this car the hell out of that repair shop! I can't imagine how they'd let you out of there with the oil light on. Yikes!

    If you are in the SF Bay Area, I can refer you to a very good Audi shop.
  • thelammbmanthelammbman Member Posts: 1
    my 1996 petrol A4 2.6 v6 seems to suffer fuel starvation at around 5000 revs.I've done a full service, including fuel filter and new knock sensors, any other suggestions please.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    How's the air filter? How many miles on this car?
  • nwalkleynwalkley Member Posts: 9
    If you end up needing a new fuel tank, as I did for what sounds like a similar problem (see earlier post in Jan./Feb. of this year) after replacing fuel canister and then senders to no avail, $3600 bill...all is right. I emailed Audi North America and after some research thru my local dealer they are refunding me $1800...
  • jonorrheajonorrhea Member Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem with my 2003 A4 1.8T. The oil light came on and stayed on even after I had the oil changed. I brought the car to the dealer as it was still under warranty. They had the car for over a week, and at the end of it I was told there had been a sludge buildup, and that they had to "re-plumb" the engine. It has never run the same since. I have also had the CVT totally fail, and now I think the replacement transmission is about to go. Wonderful car.
  • audiornotaudiornot Member Posts: 3
    OMG I have been driving a 1997 ford escort for 13 years now and hardly had ANY repairs besides the obvious wear and tear AND RUST, I was interested in buying a 2006 a4 quattro after test driving it, i absolutely loved the drive, and what a change from my 97 escort (which still runs perfectly)!!!!! but thanks to all of you it is now out of the question!!!! GERMAN ENGINEERING? i was looking for something reliable, it never even crossed my mind that such a car would have all these idiotic problems!! it was funny when the salesman told me that i have a 100$ deductible for every time i bring in my car for repairs under the warranty, he explained to me that its to my advantage to wait until i have a few issues or repairs to make so that the 100$ deductible will cover all of them. a little bell rang in my head.... repairs? wait until i have SEVERAL issues? whats this guy saying? he sucks as a salesman, i understand what he meant now. AUDI stop spending money in pretending you're a luxury brand through advertising and start spending more money or r&d and customer relations. seriously. thank you all again, at least Toyota admits they need to recall, you AUDI people categorize your should be recalls as "normal". Clearly different set of standards.
  • audiornotaudiornot Member Posts: 3
    audis have pretty lights, they should build a car around them
  • webticklerwebtickler Member Posts: 2
    Anybody experience their Audi being sluggish when they accelerate? I have 2002 S4 that starting doing this, but since I travel a lot I haven't had time to find a good repair shop locally. I just got back into town and drove it last night, and it's worse. The ABS lights comes on when it gets sluggish, so if I lift off the accelerator, it goes back to normal. In some extreme cases, when I had to pass someone on the highway a little quicker than usual, then the ABS and ESP (electronic-stability program) go on at the same time, when this happens I have to stop the car, turn off the ignition for a few secs, then it "resets" I guess. Any help/advice would be greatful! Thanks!
  • mercopsmercops Member Posts: 34
    Couple of things might be happening here concurrently.

    I believe that your ABS (Antilock Braking System) and your ESP (Electronic Stability Program) which interconnect to your EPC (Electronic Power Control) which is your throttle valve, are interrelated in the stability systems "brain". I think that they would come on anytime you lose traction (or the wheel sensors get out of sync with each other). This would cause your EPC to reduce power by limiting and closing your throttle valve. Or you could have a wiring fault between the EPC and the ECM.

    This should be an item that you can have determined by the dealership by putting it on their diagnostic computer and getting the appropriate touble/service codes. If there is a problem between the throttle valve and the ECM then have them check the wiring between your throttle valve and the ECM. If all wires and signals check out, you may need a new throttle valve. If the wires don't check out, they need to find out if the wires are shorted or is the ECM giving incorrect information.

    This also may be something that could be considered as "Emissions Related" and you might be able to get the dealership to cover it under the "Emissions Warranty. Worth asking.
  • webticklerwebtickler Member Posts: 2
    That's great info, thanks! I didn't mention that I had some gaskets for an oil leak replaced and I had a coolant leak that was taken care of Oct 09'. This current problem didn't start until 2 or 3 weeks I'm guessing it's part of a "putting things back together" thing and it's a short, but the rest of the items you mentioned make sense of course. It was not the dealer though, my car is not under warranty, but typical, I should have gone to the dealer for my S4. It's so bad today that I can only accelerate to about 40mph and it's starts to freak out, so I let off the gas and wait a few secs for it to go "normal". And the weather here is sunny and 75 degrees!
  • tmetrotmetro Member Posts: 1
    Hi there!
    I have a 1999 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8L and it just started doing this SAME problem today. I couldn't get my car to go over 10mph and it was stalling. Did you ever find out why your Audi was doing this?
    Please help.
  • audiman2012audiman2012 Member Posts: 1
    I am almost certain that your issue is a bad coil pack or bad spark plugs (more likely the coil pack with audi's or vw's)....they actually recalled all those from 2001-2007 b/c they knew that they had an issue. Parts should cost you about $125-$150 for all (1 per cylinder)

    simplt take off the plastic cover (3 plastic screvs that hold it on)...this will oncover the coil pack.....use an allen wrench to unbolt the 8 totsl bolts (2per), unplug....and replace with new ones, plug new ones in, bolt back in, put plastic cover back on, start off into the sunset
  • audiornotaudiornot Member Posts: 3
    is it still peeping?
  • slavieslavie Member Posts: 1
    My car got rear-ended and I took it for repair at the Progressive shop. The car has 68k miles (bought new and all scheduled maintenance done at the dealership) and was in drivable condition, no difference in handling whatsoever. The clutch was performing flawlessly as always. Today I got a call from Progressive that while they were driving the car from the body shop to their concierge center, the clutch suddenly failed and they towed it to Sunset Audi (Portland, OR) - $2200 for replacement. Dealer claimed failure was not due to the accident, so Progressive wants me to foot the bill. Hence my question: is it normal for A4 Quattros to have sudden clutch failure? Or should I suspect that somebody used my car as a racing tool.

    Thanks in advance
  • mercopsmercops Member Posts: 34
    As the car was driveable prior to and up until the accident and the accident was to the rear of the vehicle, it is highly unlikely that the damage occurred from the accident.

    However, you left you vehicle in the custody of a third party (agent), ie: the repair shop, who was going to deliver it to the insurance concierge center. The vehicle repair shop has an obligation to provide for the guardianship of the vehicle while in its possession. In most cases, the the repair shop will state in their repair agreement that they are not liable for damages caused to the vehicle while in its custody except for cases of gross negligence. Unfortunately, gross negligence is hard to prove unless you or another party have witnessed what you believe to be gross negligence on the part of the person who was driving your vehicle. As you were not present during the failure of the clutch, you will have a tough fight on your hands.

    However, there is possibly some hope. If memory serves me correctly, your Audi is capable of storing certain operating, engine and vehicle dynamic information in its computer memory (this is comparable to an aircraft "black box"). If this information is still in the memory, your dealership should be able to extract the information, which will serve to provide some data to see if the car was used as a "racing tool" or any other hot-dogging prior to clutch failure.

    I would get with the dealership to see if they can extract the information and if so that could prove to be your tool to pursue the claim of gross negligence on the part of the agent and hence hold his feet to the fire by leveraging your insurance carrier that they are dealing with a firm that is not handling customers cars in a prudent, safe fashion.

    Good luck and let us know how you make out.

  • babyvanbabyvan Member Posts: 1
    I have an Audi 1999 2.8L .It has 107000 miles on it.
    2 months ago I was driving and the car died on me.However, the car started immediately after turning on my ignition. Now, the situation has gotten worse. These days it won't start at all. Sometime it would start after so many attempts. I have had two different shops look at it. They both have diagnosed different fault. The first shop says it's the electrical part of my ignition switch. They say i need to change it and have the audi dealership reprogram the switch. The second shops says my ECM is bad. They also want me to change it and have the Audi dealership program the new ECM with my vin number. The guy in the first shop has worked with an audi dealership for several years.

    Please guys I need your help. I am trying to avoid a visit to the audi dealership. The last time I went there they took all my money but couldnt solve my electrical issues (my power lock and power windows just stopped working all at the same time)

    Diagnostics 1.0..ran diagnostics and 4 codes came up
    16988:control Module Malfunction
    17967:Idle speed control thrust positive adaptation Malfunction
    18010:Voltage Supply Terminal 30 Voltage to Low
    18032: Request for warning light on active.

    Thank you so much!!
  • myfirstaudimyfirstaudi Member Posts: 1
    just purchased a 2005.5 3.2 a4. Seems great so far. couple of things. I was given a manual and maintenance guide for a 2005, it has no info on the 2005.5. I can't tell capacities or maintenance schedule from these docs. Can anyone lead me in the right direction for this basic info? I don't even know what grade motor oil to use. Want to change air/pollen filters, and clean snow screen, but I don't know where the snow screen or pollen filter is. bought k&n for air filter, but cant get air box lid off it, apparently without removing the rail on the valve cover for the coil packs. And how do I unclip these coil packs?!?!? I want to change plugs (I'm at 50k miles) but can't figure out pack clips and don't want to break them. Thanks for help and sorrow for multiple questions, thanks to all with the knowledge that are willing to take the time to share with us newbies...
  • fenixdfenixd Member Posts: 1

    I am thinking of buying 2002 A4 1.8 T Quattro from a colleague. It has 73500 miles on it automatic transmission.
    Recent work done as per him was
    Ignition coils replaced
    Coolant flange replacement

    I read issues and quiet costly ones with CVT 2002 version specifically.
    Are there any serious issues with this and should I stay away from this model.

    I currently have Golf GL and wanted to upgrade to GTI or A4.

    Please suggest based on you experiences.

  • nwalkleynwalkley Member Posts: 9
    I can't speak for 2002 models, but I am planning on selling my 2005 as soon as I get it out of the shop - there already one week awaiting shipment of new ignition cylinder that needs replacing as car will not start. This is second week + of car in shop in 2010. I am planning on selling it soon and would not advise anyone to by an Audi unless it was certified pre-owned by a dealer, or without buying an extended warranty - car is great to drive but maintenance is becoming expensive and inconvenient.
  • kristina9876kristina9876 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '97 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8 that won't start. When you turn the key absolutely NOTHING happens.
    Here's what lead to the issue: I started the car and heard a "click" noise that was unusual. While driving everything electrical stopped working - the directionals, lights, air blower (which showed on the console that it turned on, but no air came out, and then it shut itself off). When I arrived at my destination, the key wouldn't come out of the ignition. I was able to start the car back up, with no problem, and then drove home. I forced the key out of the ignition and all the electrical came back on, but now the car won't start up. The ignition switch has been replaced and we've tried bypassing the lock cylinder but it still won't start. I replaced the ECU yesterday and again, nothing. We've checked the security system and there were no issues there either. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
  • jebtdijebtdi Member Posts: 5
    My 2001 A4 TDi 6sp manual Quattro wagon ran like a dream, and required very little in the way of maintenance, expensive or otherwise for almost 10 years.
    I'd say look at the price, so you can get out of it in a good way if problems develop.
    Audi experiences seem to be extremely polarized – very very good or terrible, and little in-between.
    If it's been good for him, jump in; if not, forget about it, and get a new Golf TDi, a Passat TDi, or a Skoda Octavia TDi (all lovely).
  • jaseyjasey Member Posts: 1

    My 1996 Audi A4 does not start up. The gauge lights turn on but it doesn't click or anything. The gas light stays on after attempting to start. It takes push starting this thing to get it going. When it has been started it stays on for a while at stop signs but every once in a while cutting off on it's own requiring a push start.

    The gas was low but not low enough to not be able to start because of low fuel but I took it to the gas station anyway to put some in there. Now it's at a quarter tank. Left the engine going since I didn't have anyone to push start the thing. On the way back home it was fine. Until right infront of the neighbor's house it cut off by itself. It took maybe 4 minutes to get there. Was able to get it going again but this time it would not idle for longer than about 10 seconds. Do you have any ideal of what the problem is, how much it may cost, & whether or not me leaving the engine on during fueling caused the vehicle to no longer idle?
  • shaned7shaned7 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 1996 audi a4 quattro 2.8L. It takes me about 10 trys of starting the engine for it to finnaly start. It almost does everytime but it seems to be about 10 times before it actually does. After its started and running for about 5 minutes you can shut it off and easily restart it the first time when its warmed up. When im trying to start it and i give it gas it seems to bog out. Can someone please give me an idea of what this might be?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    I'd guess a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Have the fuel pressure tested in the fuel rail when the engine is cold and has been sitting overnight (I guess a shop will have to do this unless you have the gauge and the T-fittings).

    If the regulator is bad, the fuel pressure bleeds off overnight, requiring the fuel pump to re-pressurize the entire fuel system from the gas tank forward.
  • dawal1224dawal1224 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 A4 . after checking oil I added what may have been too much (not sure) and then drove a couple of miles before engine light began to blink and car began to run sluggishly especially in acceleration. Had someone check it out that believes that it is the catalytic converter. Could over fill of oil hurt CC? If so, is it, how important is it to get a CC from dealer or would it be ok to get the parts online and have someone install it. It seems that the quotes from the dealership are far more expensive then what Icould get a new CC online and have it installed. Advice please!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Why aren't you sure how much oil you added?

    To knock out a CC, you'd have to add a mighty good amount, to say nothing of dealing with huge clouds of smoke.

    There's no reason why the CC cannot be decisively tested, without any guessing.
  • nwalkleynwalkley Member Posts: 9
    Today is the day I say goodby to my 2005 Audi A4 - which I do love to drive - but it has spent a total of 4 weeks in the shop in the last 5 months, so I have had it. Turning to BMW for the first time and hoping it will be a good and longer lasting experience.
  • barryendbarryend Member Posts: 121
    Wife has 2007 A4 3.2. I have 2009 A4 2.0 sports package. No trouble with either. Audi has improved quality and reliability surpassing BMW. Read blogs on audiworld or audizine.

    B8 A4 is much roomier and better trunk than BMW 3 series. Better looking too in P+ level with LEDs IMHO.
  • patso21patso21 Member Posts: 1
    I have recently discovered a hollow knocking noise from the front right area of my 2004 A4 (non-Quattro). It seems to happen most under breaking and slightly during acceleration, any time there is a significant shifting of weight forward or back.

    I dont think it's my shock as it doesnt do it over every bump. Im guessing it might be a CV boot issue or something. Any suggestions or thoughts?

  • audiman5audiman5 Member Posts: 8
    Maybe caused by motor mounts.
  • olakolak Member Posts: 1
    Yes there is a place. It's called HB Motorwerks, and it's in Chesapeake. I've been there to fix my power window, do oil change, spark plugs. They specialize in Audi and VW.
    Their address:
    HB Motorwerks
    936 Professional Place
    Building A, Suite 3
    Chesapeake, VA 23320
    (757) 965-7146

    Good luck!
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