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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • bburkbburk Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with #2 cylinder did you ever find
    out what the fix was

  • rapowitzrapowitz Posts: 12
    I've looked into this myself on my 2001 A4 1.8T. I have 60K on original brakes and think I need new ones soon. The dealer says new rotors and pads are required. Midas said the dsame exact thing. They said they could just put pads on, but the rotors cannot be machined. They cautioned that the result will be pretty bad braking and the rotors are pretty thin to begin with.

    Apparently Audi's (and other german brands) have brakes where the rotors are made with softer metal and they are designed to wear down with the brake pads to the point that they cannot be machined and need to be replaced. My advice is to change both rotors and pads.
  • jdog6973jdog6973 Posts: 3
    Can some one tell me were I can get and after market Catalytic Converter for my 2002 V6 Audi A4? My Dealer told me it was going to cost $2100 to replace just the left side and 2 O2 sensors. It is just out of the warranty on the emission parts by 100 miles...
  • Hi,
    I just saw your message, and figured i'd reply...since it was kida connected to my message - although not about the same subjects. Anyway, I would think that you could find the answer to your question via the internet - thats what i usually do. I research stuff online all the time. But forget it...I've looked it up for you (simply by doing "1998 Audi A4 specs" and "1998 Audi A4 gasoline type" on Yahoo's search engine).
    Here are 2 links that, when combined, appear to address a couple of your questions.

    I hope these help:
  • Hi everyone,
    I first posted a message here a few months ago - when i first got my 1999 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro. It was doing fine then...aside from the front bumpber just slightly beginning to come loose (which was Face down, almost totally off as i was parking out in of my workplace,and this lady stopped walking and turned around to look at it - i was horrified once i saw what she saw..but i managed to secure it back..if i can use the word came loose again later, just not as much). I havent really been able to do maintenance on the car other than the $35 or so Synthetic Oil oil changes(I've had it for about 10k miles. It just started 94k miles).

    I took it to this Walmart super center/Aut center that i go to and they did the oil change about 3 days ago. I drove about 4 miles to go home and didnt Notice any problems, but later that night when I started the car, I immediately noticed the check engine light. Around that time (either earlier that day, or later that day) I noticed a slight shaking/pulsation of the car when it was idling after my just starting it up. I didnt pay it any mind..but now that the check engine light is really worried about that combination (so it must have started before the check engine light came on). I mean is the Engine shaking or What?? What worse, is that with each passing day, the pulsation (which, to describe it, makes my legs..or just whole body kinda rock/sway just slightly when im just sitting there with the car on). Today i asked the Walmart supercenter about the issue and they said they dont deal with check engine lights..and that they wouldnt have done anything that would ahve cuased the check engine light to come on.
    I've gone to a few places and asked them how much it would cost for me to have it looked at/diagnosed and I've gotten numbers ranging from about $80 to over $100 (i told the Audi guy that its running okay..but it does feel a bit it felt Worse..RPM at 2 or 3 even though im stable at 50 or 60 mph, does that sound right? Im thinking not..but i dont know. But getting back to the Audi guy...i told him it was sluggish/less pep, as if it may tbe the Catalytic converter or something..and he said "Well i hope its not that, they cost upward of $2,500" I said "Well i hope so too then..I'd just have to sell it". I simply Cant pay for the diagnostic right much as that sucks. And my brakes suck because even though the tiny dealership i bought the car from advertised it as having New brakes, only the front ones were new. Went back to him after NTB told me they were Very bad..rotors and all but that the front brake Pads were new...and the tiny dealership put on new back brake pads...the rotors are still bad and i can really feel it now.

    Back to the Check engine light... here are the symptoms....Light is on. Feel a tremble/pulsation as soon as the car is started up and is idle. Im sure its doing it while im driving too, i just cant feel it. Someone said to check the oil level and make sure it hasnt been leaking oil. Its oil level is FULL and theres nothing leaking. Maybe they put in the Wrong oil? Non-synthetic?? People DO make mistakes. Would that cause this? What IS low (below the MIN. line) is the container thats on the drivers side under the hood and i think its filled with yellow or orange fluid and its cap has a Temperature guage icon on it. I guess thats the Coolant. I think i'll fill that up tonight..if i can get it from Auto Zone or something.
    I had read nothing but good things about Audi A4s right before i bought mine... I was mainly reading the Test Drive Results, etc. Not the consumer's opinions about it. But a day or so after i signed the check, i saw a bunch of complaints online and i was like "oh Boy". Couldnt believe it. Then some people said/say online "If you want a low-maintenance car you should get a Toyota or a Honda..." But that sounds stupid. I read people's comments about things going wrong with their cars when (supposedly) they had done ALL the maintenance required. I had a Hyundai and other than the Catalytic Converter going out at 13k miles and like 1 other problem, i didnt have any "repairs" for my car -- unless it was in an "accident" so that was the mindset i went into when i got the Audi..was that it would need its sheduled maintenance and that would be that. And its not like its been bad so far...but Im a bit on edge right now because I feel like there may be some problem with it thats expensive to fix (or may eventually be one) and I cant afford that. I guess when getting a used car, you should aim for a cheaper brand, or if youre gunna get the more expensive kind, get a Couple of people to inspect it, and get a of a warranty. But the situation is what it is. I've just got to get this issue diagnosed and maybe sell the A4 (well, i'll probably be trading it; im thinking people may not want to buy it with its "issues"). Im especially uneasy because I recently was told by a Few people that almost the whole car was repainted (there are small areas of chipped paint, with a lighter-colored paint unterneath it) and that the bumper is Not the original im thinking it was wrecked at some point ...and it just somehow didnt get to the i feel like "Who knows what else could be in store". Not that this check engine light is necessarily due to something could be due to something that Just happened.
    I know i wasnt brief (to say the least huh? :P), but if you have experienced this/have some answers for me, please let me know.

    Thank you all!
  • ban_willsban_wills Posts: 2
    Unfortunately, I do not have any ideas as to why this happening, but I can tell you I am having the SAME EXACT problem with my 03 A4. I just called the service department and they hope to get me in next week. I'll keep you posted!
  • ban_willsban_wills Posts: 2
    This may sound absurd, but I am having issues with my door locks, but only when it is hot outside. It started last summer, and only on extremely hot days (90 degrees or more). I felt crazy and ignored it, but it continued. I had it into the shop for the 30k service (BTW, this is a 2003 A4 1.8T Quattro). Of course, nothing could be found. So, I continued to believe I was crazy. Of course, it then began to get worse. During the fall/winter, whenever I parked my car in a sunny location, 4-5 hours later, I could not unlock my driver's side door with the remote. Every other door unlocked, but not the driver's side. I would then manually unlock it. Again, around the 40k service, I mentioned it again. Again, nothing could be found. Well, now if it has been sitting, it will not lock. I will walk away from the car, push the lock, and the alarm will not activate, nor will the doors lock. I can still lock them manually, but I can't tell you how many times I have been in a parking garage (thinking the car was locked, of course) only to return and find the doors unlocked.

    To top it off, now my turn signals (only when turning right) will come on, go left, then go back to a right signal. This happens on and off. I have also had issues with replacing just about every bulb in the car--front headlights twice, and now some of my rear lights are no longer functioning.

    I called Audi service and I will be taking my car back in next week. I guess my main concern is if I am having all of these issues at 44k miles, what do I have to look forward to after expiration of the warranty at 50k miles?

    Has anyone ever had these issues and been given a straight answer as to the cause?
  • Hi,
    I didnt see the link to edit my previous post about the engine light, so i just clicked on reply. Well anyway, i just wanted to update you all:

    I went to Auto Zone to get the Coolant stuff...and at the cash register i mentioned the problem with the car. Shockingly the guy who was kinda of a smart a#$ to me said he would take a look at it for me if i pulled it up to the curb. He hooked up this little hand held computer to the car and got the "code" It was P1136. He said that i could take that code and ask Audi what mechanical issue that code matches up to. I went to the Audi dealership in Tyson's Corner today, and surprise, surprise, they tried to get some money out of me. I told the guy that i had a check engine light on and that i was given the code for the issue, and asked if he would tell me what that code equaled. He was going on and on about how I should have them do the ($107) test over because maybe thats the wrong code and BLAH BLAH BLAH. He hesitantly went on and called someone in a different dept. who Eventually called him back with the code's definition. The code showed 2 different possible issues.
    Apparently, its either a Mass Air Flow Sensor problem or Vacuum Leak.
    Those dont sound like things that would cause Shaking/pulsation of the car. And the people at Auto Zone said its probably not that the coolant was low and tore up the engine, but that it probably needs new spark plugs and that the pulsation im feeling is a "misfire".

    Thats about it for now...please let me know what you think. Thanks.
  • Hey David!

    I hadnt gotten an alert sent to my email telling me about this post...weird. I get alerts almost every day, so i figured its letting me know Every post..or those connected to my posts at least. Well anyway, thank you for the reply :) Even though im reading it in June. I DID see something about the Timing Belt warranty online,and even printed it about 2 months ago and took it to an Audi dealership. They looked up some information about my car - I guess i gave them the VIN at the time...and the guy told me that its service ..up to the 50k mile mark atleast, was completed at an Audi dealership out of town and it showed that (Supposedly) that person already took advantage of the One-Time-Timing-Belt-Check, so i was not eligibile. I dont want to see your pretty upset cuz mine is messing up. lol. Hey, read the message i just posted yesterday (and today...i did an update on it as a "reply" since i didnt see the link to edit it. It seems like you can edit it after logging out).

    Thank you sweetie pie...I hope to hear from you soon. When i was just now reading your post and i saw you say that you read the posts i did on the other website i thought you were gunna say something rude/mean like "they were long...why'd you write all that" or something. But no, you were sweet. Are you married? Just kidding. Oh and as far as the ABS module...I found a reduced priced one online for about $550 months ago(used, but tested, and comes with a 6 month or a year warrant, cant remember which), and with (Audi) labor i guess it would still be less than the quote that Audi gave me which was about $2,500. I was told by this one guy, who is also named David, who works for VW (i kinda met him when i was looking at a car at the VW place a month before i got my Audi, then i saw the guy at the 7-11 and we started talking at the store..through a recommendation,he got me a little p/t job at the VW dealership but i dont really "know" him)said that cars actually brake better without ABS, its just that if you come really close to a car, and you slam on you brakes, ABS would help to prevent the accident. But in any case, i cant pay for the cost of the ABS system right now. If its even that, and not the sensor by the tire (?).
  • pipocapipoca Posts: 1
    i know it sounds very stupid , but i'm just getting to know my audi ,, and i have to change my rotors, what is the correct size for the front and rear rotor? thanks in advance ....
  • Here are my problems with Audi. I lease a 2003 Audi A4 1.8T :lemon: . I am attaching a letter that I sent to the Chairman of Audi (Dr. Martin Winterkorn) as well as Audi dealership owners and Audi customers. In addition to this letter, today my Audi is in for service and the hood cable is broek ($95) and the check pump needs to be replaced($267.15). Audi did tell me they would take the car back and put me in a new lease but my new payment would be 40% higher then my current payment. Here is the letter:

    June 30, 2006
    Prof. Dr. Martin Winterkorn
    Chairman of the Board of Management, Technical Development
    Audi AG
    Postfach 220
    D85045 Ingolstadt
    011 (49) 8418900

    Re: Vehicle Id# WAULC68E83A203625

    Dear Prof. Dr. Martin Winterkorn:
    I am coming to the end of the lease period for my 2003 Audi A4 1.8T. The reason for this letter is to make you aware of my extreme disappointment with Audi’s product and service. When I first leased this car I was very happy with the design and handling of the car. But as time passed, with the multitude of problems my satisfaction declined rapidly. In addition, when dealing with the service people at times they made me feel as though I had caused the problems.
    On January 30, 2006 when I had to have a fuel pump replaced I spoke with the Sales Manager of Smithtown Audi, Jeff Friedberg. I told him of my disappointment with my Audi. I also told him that I still liked the car and the problem could be rectified. I told him that I understood that not all Audi’s have these issues and that I just happened to get a “bad one.” If he could somehow workout getting me out of the current car I was in and put me in a new Audi A4 I would be satisfied. His response was (and this should make you very proud), “I could try but I doubt Audi will do anything. I used to be a manager for Mercedes Benz and they would be more than happy to accommodate you. But my experience with Audi is that they really won’t do anything for you.” At that point I told him that I guess my next car should be a Mercedes!
    I had another service issue with Jim Metzger, Service Advisor. I had new tires put on my car and later in the day I was standing behind my car and noticed one of the rear tires was on wrong. This was noticeable because the treads of the tires were going in opposite direction. When I looked closely I could see on the sidewall of one of the tires that the rotation arrow was facing the wrong way. Once again I did not see this as an issue. I just called and wanted to know if I could bring the car back and they could fix it. I left a message for Jim Metzger. I received a message back that said, “Mr. Aniello I spoke with the service technician who did the work and he said when he sent the car out the tires were on correct.” Needless to say, when I brought the car in they were very apologetic for the stupidity. I do not consider it stupidity that the tire was put on incorrectly in the first place. That was a mistake and mistakes happen. But for the service advisor to think the technician was going to say, “Yeah, I sent that car out with the tire on incorrectly.” That is stupidity!
    Below is a list of the issues I have had with my car:
    1. December 4, 2004 – Brought car in for 10,000 mile service. Asked them to look at the right directional as it was not always working. They did not find the problem but cleaned sockets which caused the problem to cease.
    2. June 10, 2004 – Brought car in for $20,000 mile service. Washer fluid did not work. Blown fuse was replaced.
    3. April 4, 2005 – Brought car in for brakes. Additionally the brake light was not working.
    4. April 20, 2005 – Brought car in for new tires. This was the time when the situation that I explained above occurred.
    5. June 29, 2005 – Brought car in for 40,000 mile service. In addition, reported that the driver side window was not working properly. The window only worked with the auto function. They could not find the problem and I was told there is no problem. I brought Jim Metzger out to the car to show him the window did not work. He was baffled and continued to push the button really hard to see if that would work?? He said I could leave the car but at that point I could not. The windows are still not always working properly. The passenger window will sometimes go down about 1/5th of the way after I have closed it.
    6. August 5, 2005 – Brought car in due to noise coming from rear of car. Fuel filter was no longer working. Fuel filter replaced.
    7. October 11, 2005 – Check engine light came on and loud squeaking noises were coming from the engine. Brought car in and reported noises as well as windows. The engine and turbo with all new breather system was replaced. Windows were lubed. Windows STILL do not always work properly.
    8. October 31, 2005 – Check engine light came on. Vacuum hose replaced. Combination valve replaced. Valve and gasket replaced.
    9. November 29, 2005 – Brought car in for 50,000 mile service. Additionally, the sunroof was opening on its own. Sunroof switch was removed and replaced.
    10. January 6, 2006 – Car would not start in a parking lot on a Saturday. When I tried to open the hood the hood release did not work. This was because the service technician did reconnect the hood cable last service. I had to get towed to the dealership. Took over three hours from the time the car would not start to the time I got back home. I did not have a car for the rest of the weekend and for work on Monday. The problem was a fuel pump. This repair cost $664.63 due to the car no longer being under warranty. Additionally, the glove box broke off one of the hinges when I opened it a few days before. Audi gave me an estimate of $821.65 to replace. I did not have the repair done and you will get the car back that way when the lease is up.
    11. March 8, 2006 – Brought car in for brake light. $15.80.
    12. May 30, 2006 and June 2, 2006 – The car can no longer take a full tank of gas. The last two fill-up’s only gave me just less than ¾ of a tank of gas? I have not brought this in yet for service.
    The car is due for a 60,000 mile service within the next week or two. I am sure there will be more problems when I bring it in.
    I received a letter from Bellavia Audi about my lease coming due in November. I spoke with Arun Nebnhani, a sales associate, and asked if they could get me out of the car any time sooner. He said he would look into it. He did not call back so I left him another message. He called back and left me a message. I returned his call with another message and have not heard from him since.
    I hope you can understand my frustration with your product. This is my last attempt to see if you stand behind your product and have any type of solution. The people I have copied on this letter are all Audi owners that are waiting to see what the response to this letter is. I would like to be able to tell them that althou
  • byronwalterbyronwalter Posts: 220

    I would edit the letter down in an attempt to be more concise. Make your main point in the first line and then expand on it. You might start with the list of issues and, when needed, elaborate on your dealer's responses.

    You might find a few grammar/punctuation issues (I know that this is a draft :) ).

    Best of luck with your attempt budge Audi.

  • sdradioguysdradioguy Posts: 101
    A few weeks back, I was cleaning the interior of my 2004 A4. My vacuum cleaner (an ordinary household Hoover with the brush attachment) isn't that strong, yet somehow, it sucked up the eject button for the CD player (the Symphony model). All I found when I tore apart the bag and sifted through the dirt was about half the button. I have no idea where the other half ended up.

    I needed a new set of wiper blades, so I made a trip to the dealer for those, and asked the service advisor if it was possible to get a new button to snap into place. He said the stereo would have to be pulled (!) so they could get the model number (no, such information isn't kept in a catalog somewhere, so I'm told).

    After one of the techs pulled the stereo (scuffing the dash in the process), I was told that they couldn't just get a new eject button, but they'd have to order a Whole. New. Stereo.

    Yes, a whole new stereo for one missing button.

    The service advisor said "Well, that's what warranties are for. Be glad you have one, still." Okay, I guess.

    I did a little research on my own, and learned that Panasonic made the head unit. Panasonic was willing to help me find a new eject button, but they needed the model number which the guys at the Audi place didn't write down.

    I have an appointment on Wednesday, July 5th, to get the stereo swapped out. This seems totally unnecessary, and I feel kind of guilty making a warranty claim for a pricey stereo over one lil' ol' button getting sucked up.

    Does anyone have any suggestions on where I could find a new CD eject button?
  • jc112jc112 Posts: 6
    Id try can usually find anything there from the JFK files to the Roswell UFO.

    Or try your local junk yard for cars that have been in wrecks beyond repairs.....
  • trosenbtrosenb Posts: 1
    Could you provide info on how to access the oil slugde class action lawsuit. I have looked everywhere and cannot find anything.

    thanks in advance for your help!
  • I hada scary experience in my 2005 A4 2.0T. When I pulled onto the street and hit the accelerator, my car continued accelerating when I took my foot of the gas. Luckily I was on a rural road and had room to get my car stopped. The dealer is telling me my floor mat caused the problem, which I think is complete BS, because the floor mat does not even approach the accelerator.

    Does anyone know about his happing to anyone else? I would appreciate any feedback.
  • chelle4chelle4 Posts: 7
    Hello All, I am looking for any information that I can get. I just recently had the engine and the turbo replaced in my 2002 Audi A4. I was made to feel that I was very, very lucky that they were replacing this, and then I find out on this website that this has been an ongoing problem with Audi. I also had to pay $578.00 to have the timing belt replaced (and some other things). Anyway, now I read that there is also a recall or issue with the timing belts. Can anyone tell me where to look to find this information so that I can confront the dealership/service department with this new info. I am furious and believe that I should sell the car even though they have replaced the engine and turbo. Please HELP!!!
  • My 2000 Audi A4 also shakes/pulsates at startup.

    Several months ago, the check engine light started. I had the guy at the oil change place hook it up to his computer. He messed with the vacuum system and the light went off. It came back on almost immediately.

    A month or two ago, I used some fuel injector cleaner. The car started shaking/pulsating. A friend who is a mechanic said that oil is slowly leaking from the head into the pistons and that I would have to replace/fix the head. It stopped after that tank of gas was finished.

    Wend back to the oil change place - the computer read "improper air fuel mixture". Don't go to Audi - they will charge $150 just to hook the computer up. Most oil change places do it for free. Also, the computers cost $100, if you want you own.

    It started again. Some slight power loss. Am taking it to Midas in a few minutes.
  • Hey,
    Thank you so much for the reply! You gave a lot of information which seems useful, but im confused as to what you want me to think the problem mentioned the vacuum system making the engine light go out...the piston being the possible problem...and that once you replaced the altered fuel, your your car stopped what do you think the actual prob was?? Well in any case, thanks for the info - and its good to know that i can get one of those diagnostic/code computers for myself. Although, i really want to just get rid of the Audi now(about 3 months into it..i wonder if thats a record. lol)...since its not like these Audi dealerships reasonably price their services, and im afraid of what other problems may lie around the corner, since this used car has had a paint job and apparently, a replaced bumper (making it seem like to me, that its been in an accident before, perhaps an intense one). The check engine light has been on for about 2 weeks now, and its shaking more intensely day after feels like the engine is basically Struggling to stay on. If it is the Mass Air Flow Sensor - which 2 car guys have told me (just based on me describing the issue) that it probably is, then one Audi dealership quoted me at $400+ for that. The other Audi dealership quoted me at like $200, but i think that dude had given me the price for the Vacuum Leak, not the Mass Air Flow Sensor (one he gave me the price for, one he didnt).
    I guess i may stop by a Midas...since thats where you went. The places that i used to go for my Hyundai, dont even deal with/know about Audis. Go figure. I mainly used to take my Hyundai to Walmart or Meineke, but i stopped by an NTB the other day and NTB was like "we dont mess with any check engine stuff...Especially on an Audi". The car's cute and all...but i dont have time/money for any big issues. Im trying to go back to college very soon - this August - and it may be out of state...It would Really suck if the car broke down 400 miles up the road. I wonder how urgent the Mass Air Flow thing is. *sighs* It Sounds Urgent. Along with the slightly more intense shaking, its also been making a loud UNNN sound once i get to 50 mph and the rpm is at between 2 and 3 while im at 50 to 60 mph...then later, i think it comes down...but only after ive passed, or gone below, those speeds.

    Later sweeties.


    P.S. In the manual, i did read not to use any Fuel Altering stuff, since it may damage the car , i guess thats what you used (?) I read that part of the manual around the time i was thinking of using one of those fuel additives that are supposed to make your gas last longer. After reading the manual, i decided not to. I've mainly ony put the highest level fuel in my car, except for about 3 times (i think i put 87 in 2 times, and Plus in once).

    OH AND ALSO: My A/C , Heat has been making a weird noise as of the past 4 days or so - at first it sounded like a piece of paper was flapping inside of the vent or something, and for some dumb reason i decided to turn the level Up, i guess just to see if it would knock the paper out of whereever it was. Once i did that it made a noise kinda like when a vacuum gets a big piece of paper or a sock or something, in the hose part of it, it was a muffled type sound and the air flow was noticeably reduced...then i turned it down. The sounds have changed slightly since then...i dont know whats up with it. Tell me - if you think you do. Thanks.
  • a43311a43311 Posts: 11
    First problem is going to the dealership, try to find a independent shop that will work on german cars. From my experience labor is usually cheaper "sometimes a good amount" and the people you deal with are more trustworthy.
  • Hi (again),
    My car has ended up not starting after i shut it off in the past - that happened a couple of times. It made a fast clicking sound when i tried to start it up - like a tiny machine gun going off. Im sure you guys know what im talking about. So anyway, i got a jump and it immediately was okay - that coupled with the fact that the voltometer or whatever, was down to about 8. After that, I went to Walmart and they told me that they had the battery for about $60. After they got under the hood though, they said they didnt have it. After that, i went to NTB, but they quoted me at about $120, then when i asked "So that includes any labor charges?" The guy kinda smirked and said .."Oh, thats about $20 more...So $140" or Whatever he quoted me at. Then i remembered that someone told me that if you already have a battery, you can go by NTB and they'll intall it for Free, so what the H#$% was he gunna charge me a $20 fee for? For me asking, i guess. So, i dont think i'll go to that NTB.
    Anyway, the car didnt start Twice yesterday. I had noticed about 4 days ago, that it was turning over slightly slowly as i started it up...but i figured it was due to the shaking issue and that the car has been having. I got (finally) got it jumped yesterday and it started up just fine. Later though, when it was umped, it didnt start, until the guy ened up making Sparks by puttling the clamps on the engine block and Other areas he touched the clamps with. I guess he knew what he was doing, because it ended up starting up. But just before they gave me a jump, the cashier at the gas station said that the clicking/tiny machine gun noise was a sign was that it Wasnt the battery, but the Starter and that if i just keep trying to start it, it'll probably start up. I told him that it made that same noise in the past and a jump worked. But i took his advice. As i suspected, it didnt start until later on when i got a jump.
    I couldnt find a car place that was open yesterday (since it was Sunday. I had seen Some store that said Open on Sundays, but i couldnt remember what store it was or where it was).
    So today...just my luck..the car wont start. Well, it did Start to turn over for like 1 second but then went to the clicking noise and at that point the battery/voltmeter showed it as being at i tried starting it again, and again, the voltmeter went down to just ablove that makes me fee confident that it Is the battery, and not some other prob. I guess I'll know for sure once i get a new battery at NTB or somewhere later on today.

    For the person who said "first mistake, taking it to a dealership" Well its an Audi; it only made sense to me to therefore take it to the dealership, to compile as much Audi related info as possible at least...and may as well get a quote while im there. Its not like i paid for any of their services. And i Have tried to look up/find Audi/German car people in the Northern VA area, and i havent been able to..i saw like 1 or 2 listings.

    Well, i gotta go try to get a jump.


  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    You should approach this a bit more logically.

    Charge the battery up and then have the alternator output tested. If you keep jumping a dead battery and let the alternator try to charge it up time after time, you are going to wipe out the alternator soon enough.

    With a fully charged battery you can get accurate test results on load-testing the battery and also checking alternator output.

    If you just replace the battery, you may have cured only the symptom, not the disease....and thrown away a good battery and still have a bad alternator.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I dont see how getting a battery jumped, thats gone bad randomly is "not approaching something logically". You talk as if EVERYONE on earth would know about the alternator output, etc etc. How about You approach the situation logically and with an open mind? The battery was doing fine until yesterday and this morning, and during those times, i couldnt get to a car place. Think about it. Also, If i knew everything about cars, i wouldnt be on this website making inquiries.

    ANYWAY, I just got the battery charged, and im going to NTB now. I got some advice about the battery issue and how to charge it on my own. Since inconsiderate people like you are reading(thats my polite way of saying it), i hardly even want to share the info...but for the nice people, i will: This lady said that she's started her battery before using SODA. I really didnt think it would work but I walked to store and came back and tried it. Sure enough, my car started up. Isnt that something? Well anyway, I'll go have the whole battery situation looked at now, hopefully whatever the issue is, NTB will fix it - thats not always how it goes.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    Well no offense intended I assure you. By "logically" I meant the problem, not you. I was just trying to suggest how to avoid a costly mistake and also to avoid damaging your alternator. I wish you luck solving your problem.

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  • Thank you for the clarification. A lot of people are quite rude online and have warped mentalities. I guess they're dumb/inadequate in every other area of their lives so they feel the need to come online and act like they are the leading authority on something like Cars and act like smart a#$es all day. I have a high I.Q., love learning, and im Much more compassionate than most. So it irritates me when people act like they're on some higher level than the next person(when there's a 99% chance that im smarter than them about most subjects). I used to be extremely modest...but i think its time i set the record straight.

    But back to the car: I just left Merchant Auto Center. I had gone to NTB and asked them about doing a diagnostic on the battery/alternator and told him that someone said contsant charged would mess up the alternator or something. He said he didnt know what they were talking about as far as that, but that based on what i told him about the car immediately starting up after the jumps, its Definitely not anything other than the battery. But they ended up telling me that they dont have some Electronic Coding thing that has to be done along with the battery, but that i could go to Merchants. I went to Merchants and the guys there were very professional/helpful(apparently, Merchant and NTB are affilated, he pulled up my info based on a previous NTB visit). It took about 2 hours for the guy to go get the battery (and toher parts they needed for their store) from some other place, but after he got back, my battery was Installed in like 20 mins. That was wonderful. I asked if they checked the alternator and stuff and the guy said that he didnt but that basically if the car starts up fine once your started it and shut it off, about 3 times in a row, then you know the alternator and everything else is fine (I know, its a run-on sentence...but oh well).
    So the battery issue should now be completely rectified. Thanks for the bits of helpful information that i was able to salvage from the sometimes erroneous comments that you all have made.
    Oh and the cost of the battery was $104. The labor/installation was $10 so it came out to about $127. At first he said $150 something. Then i said "Its $150? But he told me earlier that it was like $104 for a battery then $10 for labor." He said that they put a $15 Complete Check charge on there. He mumbled that He doesnt usually charge for complete checks,and said that he would give me $10 off. In the past, i would have just been like "okay" or really, i probably wouldnt even have said anything at the point of him saying it was $150..i wouldve just paid. But times have changed just a little, plus im low on cash. I said "Okay...But really, if they didnt do a "complete check" then i shouldnt be getting charged for it" Then he said "Was it outside before i went and worked on it?" I said "It was outside ALL DAY" Then he said "Okay, well I'll take the Complete check off".
    So now im just left with the Engine light issue - which could be a mass air flow sensor problem or a vacuum leak problem. But it will have to wait for now..and hopefully it can. Merchant said that they dont deal with that, or things like my A/C prob and that i would probably have to go to the dealership..or some other little shop that may work on those issues.


  • Hey,

    I mentioned in an earlier entry today, that someone told me about "jumping" a car by using soda. I was pissed off at the time, so i gave scant details. I wanted to come back to give you guys the full details so that I can better assist you. :)

    The way i did it was (i used Sprite, but im sure it doesnt matter what kind of soda) I shook up the soda, then filled the cap with the soda. I placed a cap full on each of the parts where you would place the cables to jump your car (the + and the -). I was thinking " This sh#t isnt gunna work...but i was willing to try it. Plus, i was thinking that you shouldnt wet the battery, you know? But anyway, i went to start up the car and it DID start. So you can use that if you ever get a dead battery (at your own risk of course..for all i know it might mess up some part of your car. lol). Im guessing maybe you shouldnt touch the coda or anything..since it may be conducting electricity...but i have not idea...I've never read up on batteries extensively, or using SODA (of all things) on them...but personally, I made sure to not touch the soda after i poured it on there :P).

    And it lasted through like 2 other start ups that i had to do before i got to the Merchant Tire/Auto place to get the new battery.

    Take care!


  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    Yes, constant charging of a dead battery using only alternator power will definitely damage an alternator.

    Source is the Bosch USA factory website:

    Scroll down to last Q & A for a detailed explanation.




    It's true, the acidic quality of soda pop can be used to possibly clean some corrosion from the TERMINALS of a battery, but if the soda pop gets INTO the battery, it will destroy it.

    source: California State Automobile Association website: - - - l

    A better solution is a diluted mixture of baking soda and water, again only to be used to dissolve external corrosion on a battery terminal. The solution must NEVER get inside a battery or it's toast.

    Please work safely around car batteries.

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  • Gosh. Will you ever let me breathe Joe? Im wondering if you put "TERMINALS" in caps because when i mentioned them in my previous post, i typed "the parts where you would place the cables to jump your car (the + and the -)". I couldnt remember the name of them at the time nor did i care to sit there and brainstorm over such a minuscule detail. But im giving it the benefit of a doubt that maybe you werent trying to be a smart aleck about what i said (since you put "INTO" in caps as well, im thinking that you were just, in essence,making both terms noticeable so that people would note the difference in the two situations: outside of versus inside of the battery).
    And as i said, i too think that everyone should be careful around the battery. I just figured i'd pass along what i found out - in case a person is stranded out in the middle of nowhere and without a phone to seek assistance. Its good to know that what may start your car may already be in it - soda.
    Okay, talk to you guys later. I dont think i'll be posting again unless something major happens.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,613
    The post wasn't addressed to you, sorry again for the misunderstanding. The links provided were to clarify alternator and battery issues for those Audi owners who may be doing DIY work in the future.

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  • Hmmm...It "wasnt addressed to me", but yet you mentioned the two things that I had been talking about: the alternator/battery and the Soda. But whatever. Really, i was only half serious when i did that Terminology post. It was kind of a joke; I didnt really care about what you had said. I just found it funny that you had a bead on me all of a sudden. LOL.
    But thanks for taking the time to clarify and being sweet about it.

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