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Comments
To determine if it could be a head-gasket you need a compression leak down test to ensure that your not getting engine oil in the coolant. I hate the idea of just throwing parts at a problem based on a guess, it can get very expensive and still not remedy the real issue.
Good luck finding out what the real problem is.
I am noticing a noise though, or more like a vibration when i'm in drive, but stopped. Like it seems like its idling to high when in gear, its hard to explain. When its in neutral it seems fine. But when I slow down, then come to a full stop the car starts to vibrate a little. It's weird.
Timing Belt service/replaced
Water Pump replacement
Serpentine
Coolant Flange replaced
Rear Transmission seals
Cam Shaft Seals
Oil Change
The oil pressure light was coming on after this work was done, but the mechanic assured me it was fine and that it was probably just the sensor.
http://secret-network.com/audi.mov
Noticed the noise after driving on the freeway for 40 minutes. The first I had driven it since the mechanics. Immediately pulled over. No other engine lights were coming on. The engine temperature gauge was normal. The oil level was normal. Started up the car once more to record this video.
Any ideas what this could be?
Thanks!
I know it's in the latch.
Can I get the latch out just loosening the two bolts, or do have to do major work which means my mechanic does it?
Need to change the Shocks and they don't make it ez.
Thanks for your time. :shades: :shades:
Now if my coil pack was after market (mind you i have no idea if it is or isn't cause i bought it used) then why would they replace it in the first place? I think i'm getting screwed.
The dealer ship is telling me that my coil pack is after market. Could be could not be i have no idea. I bought it used six months ago. So the coil pack is aftermarket but they are going to take care of it anyway. Now they're telling me that that because of my coil pack failing it caused some wires to melt which they have to charge me 300 bucks to fix..... hmmm slightly confused. why would they fix an "aftermarket" part. A part thats not Audi's for free and not the other damaged it caused? Something tells me that they wanted money.
Yesterday I was called again by Audi service. The technician told me that they're waiting for a part and it would still cost me 300 dollars, and the car would be done by the next day. I get call today notifying me that the car was done and its going to cost me almost 100 dollars more then what he had quoted me over the phone. Naturally I got slightly upset because not only did they go over what they had quoted me, they did more work to my car without notifying me that they were doing so and that there was a price difference.
After I calmly told him that i believe what they are doing, or did was illegal he quickly told me he would talk to his manager and try and take care of it.
When I go to pick up my car. I'd like to see my "aftermarket" coil pack that they needed to take off. Do any of you know if there are any markings on the coil pack that would tell me if it were truly an after market one?
Sorry for the extremely long post. Just pisst. I feel as though i'm not so gently being effd.
http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=1996201
Cheers,
Mercops
I would not drive the car another inch with that sound, frankly I think your mechanic is incompetent letting you get the car to this point after so many expensive repairs. I am afraid that what your looking at could be a sludge issue in that oil is not making it to the top of the engine due to a clogged pick-up inside the oil pan.
If it is sludge the oil pan has to be dropped and things cleaned up. Hopefully the damage to the valves etc... is not as bad as it sounds and that the cleaning does the trick. Once the repair is made all future oil changes should be with only approved synthetic oils (such as Mobil1 European Car Formula) so as not to have the engine sludge up again.
Good luck with that and I hope the simple cleaning does the trick for you.
Get this car the hell out of that repair shop! I can't imagine how they'd let you out of there with the oil light on. Yikes!
If you are in the SF Bay Area, I can refer you to a very good Audi shop.
I believe that your ABS (Antilock Braking System) and your ESP (Electronic Stability Program) which interconnect to your EPC (Electronic Power Control) which is your throttle valve, are interrelated in the stability systems "brain". I think that they would come on anytime you lose traction (or the wheel sensors get out of sync with each other). This would cause your EPC to reduce power by limiting and closing your throttle valve. Or you could have a wiring fault between the EPC and the ECM.
This should be an item that you can have determined by the dealership by putting it on their diagnostic computer and getting the appropriate touble/service codes. If there is a problem between the throttle valve and the ECM then have them check the wiring between your throttle valve and the ECM. If all wires and signals check out, you may need a new throttle valve. If the wires don't check out, they need to find out if the wires are shorted or is the ECM giving incorrect information.
This also may be something that could be considered as "Emissions Related" and you might be able to get the dealership to cover it under the "Emissions Warranty. Worth asking.
I have a 1999 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8L and it just started doing this SAME problem today. I couldn't get my car to go over 10mph and it was stalling. Did you ever find out why your Audi was doing this?
Please help.
simplt take off the plastic cover (3 plastic screvs that hold it on)...this will oncover the coil pack.....use an allen wrench to unbolt the 8 totsl bolts (2per), unplug....and replace with new ones, plug new ones in, bolt back in, put plastic cover back on, start car.....drive off into the sunset
Thanks in advance
However, you left you vehicle in the custody of a third party (agent), ie: the repair shop, who was going to deliver it to the insurance concierge center. The vehicle repair shop has an obligation to provide for the guardianship of the vehicle while in its possession. In most cases, the the repair shop will state in their repair agreement that they are not liable for damages caused to the vehicle while in its custody except for cases of gross negligence. Unfortunately, gross negligence is hard to prove unless you or another party have witnessed what you believe to be gross negligence on the part of the person who was driving your vehicle. As you were not present during the failure of the clutch, you will have a tough fight on your hands.
However, there is possibly some hope. If memory serves me correctly, your Audi is capable of storing certain operating, engine and vehicle dynamic information in its computer memory (this is comparable to an aircraft "black box"). If this information is still in the memory, your dealership should be able to extract the information, which will serve to provide some data to see if the car was used as a "racing tool" or any other hot-dogging prior to clutch failure.
I would get with the dealership to see if they can extract the information and if so that could prove to be your tool to pursue the claim of gross negligence on the part of the agent and hence hold his feet to the fire by leveraging your insurance carrier that they are dealing with a firm that is not handling customers cars in a prudent, safe fashion.
Good luck and let us know how you make out.
Cheers,
Mercops
2 months ago I was driving and the car died on me.However, the car started immediately after turning on my ignition. Now, the situation has gotten worse. These days it won't start at all. Sometime it would start after so many attempts. I have had two different shops look at it. They both have diagnosed different fault. The first shop says it's the electrical part of my ignition switch. They say i need to change it and have the audi dealership reprogram the switch. The second shops says my ECM is bad. They also want me to change it and have the Audi dealership program the new ECM with my vin number. The guy in the first shop has worked with an audi dealership for several years.
Please guys I need your help. I am trying to avoid a visit to the audi dealership. The last time I went there they took all my money but couldnt solve my electrical issues (my power lock and power windows just stopped working all at the same time)
Diagnostics 1.0..ran diagnostics and 4 codes came up
16988:control Module Malfunction
17967:Idle speed control thrust positive adaptation Malfunction
18010:Voltage Supply Terminal 30 Voltage to Low
18032: Request for warning light on active.
Thank you so much!!
I am thinking of buying 2002 A4 1.8 T Quattro from a colleague. It has 73500 miles on it automatic transmission.
Recent work done as per him was
Ignition coils replaced
Coolant flange replacement
I read issues and quiet costly ones with CVT 2002 version specifically.
Are there any serious issues with this and should I stay away from this model.
I currently have Golf GL and wanted to upgrade to GTI or A4.
Please suggest based on you experiences.
Thanks.
Here's what lead to the issue: I started the car and heard a "click" noise that was unusual. While driving everything electrical stopped working - the directionals, lights, air blower (which showed on the console that it turned on, but no air came out, and then it shut itself off). When I arrived at my destination, the key wouldn't come out of the ignition. I was able to start the car back up, with no problem, and then drove home. I forced the key out of the ignition and all the electrical came back on, but now the car won't start up. The ignition switch has been replaced and we've tried bypassing the lock cylinder but it still won't start. I replaced the ECU yesterday and again, nothing. We've checked the security system and there were no issues there either. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
I'd say look at the price, so you can get out of it in a good way if problems develop.
Audi experiences seem to be extremely polarized – very very good or terrible, and little in-between.
If it's been good for him, jump in; if not, forget about it, and get a new Golf TDi, a Passat TDi, or a Skoda Octavia TDi (all lovely).
My 1996 Audi A4 does not start up. The gauge lights turn on but it doesn't click or anything. The gas light stays on after attempting to start. It takes push starting this thing to get it going. When it has been started it stays on for a while at stop signs but every once in a while cutting off on it's own requiring a push start.
The gas was low but not low enough to not be able to start because of low fuel but I took it to the gas station anyway to put some in there. Now it's at a quarter tank. Left the engine going since I didn't have anyone to push start the thing. On the way back home it was fine. Until right infront of the neighbor's house it cut off by itself. It took maybe 4 minutes to get there. Was able to get it going again but this time it would not idle for longer than about 10 seconds. Do you have any ideal of what the problem is, how much it may cost, & whether or not me leaving the engine on during fueling caused the vehicle to no longer idle?
Thanks!
If the regulator is bad, the fuel pressure bleeds off overnight, requiring the fuel pump to re-pressurize the entire fuel system from the gas tank forward.
To knock out a CC, you'd have to add a mighty good amount, to say nothing of dealing with huge clouds of smoke.
There's no reason why the CC cannot be decisively tested, without any guessing.
B8 A4 is much roomier and better trunk than BMW 3 series. Better looking too in P+ level with LEDs IMHO.
I dont think it's my shock as it doesnt do it over every bump. Im guessing it might be a CV boot issue or something. Any suggestions or thoughts?
Thanks
Pat
Their address:
HB Motorwerks
936 Professional Place
Building A, Suite 3
Chesapeake, VA 23320
(757) 965-7146
Good luck!