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Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • bulentbasbulentbas Posts: 3
    Hi all,

    I am about to buy 2001 Audi A4 2.8 quattro 112.000 miles on it at $7500. I am considering about high mileages. Is anybody has same car and mileage in this board and maybe they can give me some advice? Should I buy it?

  • ttenragttenrag Posts: 38
    Are you kidding me. Sounds like a lawsuit if it were my car! Good luck.

    It just amazes me that people continue to buy these cars used. Don't you have a warranty with the vehicle?

    I own toyotas, and have only had to change the oil and rotate the tires.
  • sxb9365sxb9365 Posts: 2
    Unfortunately the warranty expired at 50K. I've got a meeting with the service mgr tomorrow. I think what I'm going to do is have it taken to an independent mechanic who can actually tell me what's wrong with it. I've got a lawyer, I just need to know what's wrong with it. Regardless once the dust settles I'm going to off the car at a huge loss. I just need to figure out the root cause of the issue and the cheapest fix.
  • pgguypgguy Posts: 11
    Just got 06 A4 3.2 quattro manual 6 speed. Love it. Could only get manual car with sport suspension which is a bit uncomfortable for my wife and also for me. Does any one know if it is possible to exchange sport springs and/or dampers for standard parts? And if so the cost? Thanks PG guy
  • byronwalterbyronwalter Posts: 220
    Have you checked your tire pressure? As you undoubtedly know, tire pressure can have an enormous influence on how your car rides and handles. I run my pressure a little towards the high side but still think my '06 rides great. Frankly I wouldn't own an A4 without the sports suspension. The improved handling is well worth it (for me). I know that with the sports suspension, the car has slightly higher limits during spirited driving and during emergency evasion tactics, which eventually happen to us all.

    Naturally you can swap out the springs/shocks but sorry I can't help on the cost of converting the car back to a more compliant suspension.

  • pgguypgguy Posts: 11
    Hi Byron:
    Thanks for the response. Running 35lbs in front and 33 lbs in back. These are the recommended pressures for 235/45 17" all season tires. I'll call the service dept at the dealer on Monday and see whar they say.
  • rjorge3rjorge3 Posts: 144
    bulentbas, I do not want to persue you not to buy this car, but if you do your research, Audis are not great cars to buy in the used market especially with those high miles. You might be looking a huge bills if you dont' have an extended warranty, and I doubt that you might be able to get a decent ext warranty with those miles.

    Save yourself some trouble and go for a Honda, Toyota or Nissan.
  • byronwalterbyronwalter Posts: 220
    Your tire pressure sounds good. I'm usually at about 36 front and 35 rear (Continental 235s). Hope you are able to find a cost-effective route for smoothing out your ride.

  • genjunkgenjunk Posts: 2
    Hi sxb9365:

    I had my engine oil light came on while I was driving on a highway. It ended up the engine could not started anymore and had to get a tow truck to bring it back. Now it is in dealer shop. I looked up several websites and noted this engine problem is very common in Audi A4. In 2004, Audi had issued a warranty for all Audi engine for 8 years with unlimited mileage. Maybe you can look into this. I believe there are many Audi A4 owners have encountered or suffered this problem. Please keep us posted. The dealer has not told me what's wrong but I am worrying I may get into the same boat. Thanks.

  • cneffcneff Posts: 65
    sorry for the late reply.

    Audi knew from the beginning the issues I had with the car and the dealers and they turned a deaf ear. In fact, one of their customer service experts told me they only sell cars and are not responsible for their dealers actions. Whatever.

    Audi of Mendham/Bernardsville was the originating dealer....they were useless and funny enough Audi USA admitted that. I did a stint at Town Motors after Paul Miller, they did try and were nice, but Audi got tired of paying all the warranty claims, (seems that is their clue to do something) so they sent me to Jack Daniels thinking it would solve the issues. JD had the car with an Audi expert and guy from Germany for 2 weeks. Still came back faulty, one phone call as follow up and one call from Audi I got (it took them 2 weeks to send me the paperwork - guess edits had to be made - the package was a book!!) The car was just a mess.

    When I told Audi USA I was still having the same issues, Audi USA said I could go to any dealer I wanted - that statement came from their so called special customer service person (the one that gets problem customers like me, or as they put it "someone having a unique experience"). So I drove around with a faulty car for a few more months, the options I paid extra for only worked in the brochure.

    Audi just sells cars...NEVER FOLLOW
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Posts: 1,798
    "one of their customer service experts told me they only sell cars and are not responsible for their dealers actions."

    To be frank, most car manufacturers take this tired old stance. As side note,a legal represenative who had helped me resolve a GM lemon issue told me Honda and Mercedes were far and away the worst wrt their resolving "lemon" issues.

    But I wonder if Audi, like their parent VW, is still way behind the curve here?

    "Audi of Mendham/Bernardsville was the originating dealer....they were useless and funny enough Audi USA admitted that."

    So why the heck does Audi let a dealer they __know__ is useless continue to sell their product?
  • a43311a43311 Posts: 11
    Sorry for the late reply.

    NO. Too many miles, if you have to have an Audi "like I did" look around longer you can find a car with less miles. If you're in a big city check Ebay Motors, always great deals there. I would have the car fully inspected before purchasing though no matter what they tell you. Good Luck.
  • wilnerwilner californiaPosts: 34
    i had a 1999 audi a4 2.8q v6 purchased as a used in 2002, right now i had a 98,000 mileage. am not sure if the engine has a timing chain or timing belt and do i need to change it now. how many mileage before i change the timing belt?
  • a43311a43311 Posts: 11
    I have the same car and I'm at about 103k miles right now. Like you I bought my car used, at the time it had 94k miles on it. I got lucky though, it had a new engine put in at 63k and all the timing done then, so I didn't have to worry about it. If you don't know for sure that it's been done, "I'm not sure how many miles the car had on it when you got it" I'd have it done immediately, if the belt breaks thats about a 12,000 dollar problem. :surprise: It's usually around 90-95,000 I believe that the timing belt needs done.
  • wilnerwilner californiaPosts: 34
    thanks, when you replace the timing belt did you replace the water pump as well. i ask this because mostly asian cars, when they replace the timing belt they replace the water pump too, but this one(audi) is european made. thnks again!
  • lailalaila Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 A4 and currently at 9600K. According to the manual I should bring my car in for maintenance and oil change at 15k but was told by the service guy to change the oil at every 5k. Is it safe to wait until it hits 15k? or should I go ahead and change it now? Thanks!
  • My clutch also failed at 40K miles on my 2001 A4. Dealer stated that pressure-plate was cracked and replaced it under-warranty (always took car to same audi dealer; previously had 80k on Saturn with original clutch). Now 2nd Audi clutch failed after ONLY 30k miles! (Audi service drove car 1-day before failure and reported NO problem); took to performance engine shop who verified broken pressure plate & worn-out clutch disk. I keep the pressure-plate as evidence. How did you get the dealer to state in-writing that pressure plate was defective? My guess is that these plates are uniformly defective and cause premature failure of clutch-disk. There are several other similar clutch-failure stories on just this site.
  • wilnerwilner californiaPosts: 34
    yes, what? change the water pump too? thanks!
  • jacob0404jacob0404 Posts: 3
    I have an 04 3.0. I change my ool every 5000 miles. Audi pays for every other one. DO NOT take it in and say something like "I need a 10000 check up." If you do, it will cost you about a $100.

    BTW I love my 3.0. It is a cabriolet and I get about 33 mpg on the highway top down at the speed limit. I have had some problems but I can live with it. I had Fords before the Audi. Talk about problems.
  • byronwalterbyronwalter Posts: 220
    Ditto the oil change every 5k. In the big picture the cost of an oil change is trivial and it's far better to error on too frequent changes vs to few.

    If you read the fine print in the manual, the extended oil change interval only applies if you drive your car at 60 mph, 68 degree ambient temperatures, and in clean Wyoming air.

    If, on the other hand (according to the manual), you drive short distances, in varying temperatures, and/or in dusty air, you will need more frequent oil changes. Isn't that virtually all of us?

    Many of use are familiar with the the oil sludge syndrome that took out some 1.8t and 2.8 liter Audi engines. The sludge problems were associated with the extended oil change interval. Fortunately the fix was easy... buy a new engine :P

    And Audi wasn't the only manufacturer with engine sludge issues. Toyota shared the "honors" as well.
  • a43311a43311 Posts: 11
    Oh, sorry man. Yes change the water pump at the same time.
  • wilnerwilner californiaPosts: 34
    thanks, am working on it together with my friend mechanic, that's why i even bought a special tool to replace the timing belt to hold the camshaft and the crankshaft.
  • shom1shom1 Posts: 5
    The repair invoice flat out stated that the pressure plate was defective, causing damage to the clutch. I then asked the service advisor to interpret the invoice, and he basically repeated what it sounded like; I took notes and he confirmed the cause. Now Audi is claiming I abused the clutch and burned it out, which is total BS. I've always driven this car with kid gloves. My small claims court date is August 2. Even if I lose round one, I have an automatic right to appeal and I will press on. If Audi wants to waste its money showing up in court twice, so be it.
  • 69camaro69camaro Posts: 1
    This exact same thing happened to us on Memorial Day. 2002 A4 with 1.8L turbo engine and 52K miles. The oil light came on. We stopped checked the oil which was full on the dipstick. We were 380 miles from home and over 100 miles from an Audi dealership.
    Turns out after being carless for 3 weeks (no loaner car, dad had to drive 380 miles to get us and bring us home) that it was oil sludge. Great news: Audi picked up the whole tab for an entire new engine and even paid the $350 tow bill. Bad news: After they told me what the problem was I began researching it and have found this is a common and known problem. I am just afraid it will only happen again and do not trust the damn car. I will be trying to trade it in today only 1 day after getting it back.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Posts: 1,798
    Turbo equipped engines are very sensitive to oil contamination and require frequent oil changes.
    Otherwise you either get sludge, or burned/caked oil in the turbo bearings that will destroy the turbo.

    It also helps to get in the habit of waiting a bit after starting up, and waiting a bit before shutting down, to allow oil to properly circulate through the turbo bearings _before/after_ you have driven the engine hard.

    Other Turbo engine manufacturers have had similar problems.
    They are high maintanance engines by nature, unfortunately.
  • wilnerwilner californiaPosts: 34
    done replacing on the timing belt. we reconnect the battery and the radio is in the safe mode and i don't have the code because we bought this car used from a dealer and they don't bother to give the code of the radio. what will be the best thing to do now?
  • rcmrcm Posts: 5
    Any advice on the pros/cons of resurfacing brake rotors ('02 1.8T Avant) instead of replacing with new rotors? Dealer found one rear rotor with slightly uneven surface and recommends a new rotor rather than turning it smooth. Thanks for any thoughts.

  • ebnk1ebnk1 Posts: 2
    I've had my car since it was new, it was never modified or chipped, with the exception of aftermarket forged wheels. My question, has anyone had problems with the manual transmission? The mainshaft is fine, other internal parts show normal wear and tear for a 75K mile car. The mechanic showed me the dowel(fits into an actuator rod)that sheared between the shifter and the fork shaft, preventing me from shifting. I can only assume that a bent shaft caused the transmission to bind, and sheared the dowel. This car is stock, and I ALWAYS use the clutch. Any ideas? Will I have problems with AoA if I attempt to get some type of reimbursement??
  • a43311a43311 Posts: 11
    You'll likely have to get ahold of a dealer and either find out the number that way or have it reset at the dealer. Good luck.
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