Audi A4 Maintenance and Repair



  • Back from the dealer and it was a very interesting morning. Took about an hour and the Service Advisor said I was good to go. Got in my A4 and found a 2+ inch scratch/cut on the steering wheel leather. Was not a happy camper; they said they would repair it, give me a loaner, deliver my car and then pick up the loaner where I worked 40 minutes away. Received a phone call from the SA, advising they were sorry for the damage and replaced the entire steering wheel with a new one. Got my car dropped off, looking brand new. A bad situation handled very well by the dealer to bring it to a good ending.
  • mercopsmercops Member Posts: 34
    WOW!!! Sounds like you found a great dealer who still knows how to provide service that exceeds expectations. Now if the rest of the dealers could catch on AUDI would have an outstanding reputation. Thanks
  • mercopsmercops Member Posts: 34
    You are correct about the recall notice. I received mine in the mail yesterday. The recall number is "Voluntary Emmissions Service Action 28F2/J1"

    Under the recall the dealer will inspect and install new ignition coils free of charge. Also, Audi will reimburse owners out-of-pocket expenses for any replacements that were made prior to the recall as long as you have your supporting documents. You can check with your local dealer or possibly get the forms for submittal on-line.
  • af02144af02144 Member Posts: 2
    I have just over 45K on my '06 A4. After my recent service they told me rear brakes are at 5MM and front are at 6MM. Does anyone have any idea how much I can expect the dealer to charge for new brakes (front & rear)? I hear they may want to replace the rotors as well. Thanks.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hi af02144: OK...5mm and 6mm...did they say you NEEDED new brakes? Unless you're doing a lot of hard stop-and-go city driving, I would say you have quite a few miles left before this is necessary (maybe there's a brake guy on the forum that could provide specific advice). I'm not a big fan of bias is that they're overpriced, and you can get similar quality workmanship and materials at a lower cost at an independent shop. I'm guessing a dealer cost of more than $500 or $600 when you throw in new rotors. Furthermore, my take is that unless you've run your pads down to bare metal, there's no reason the rotors can't be turned. I would at least TALK to a reputable independent shop, develop a relationship, and get an estimate from them before committing to a dealer deal. audiphile1
  • datunludatunlu Member Posts: 13
    I know there is probaly not a better solution than going to a body shop and relace the bumper. But it would not hurt to try it here. Your kind suggestions are highly appreciated.

    I believe I am not alone. Many of us thinks the front of the 09 A4 is really too low, yes, that is how it happened. Right under the fog light, the edgy bumper of my A4 hit something and left a dent on the edge. I tried to get a dent repair guy and he said he could not do anything since this is not a dent on the side or any major part of the body. Plus the bumper is plastic, a bent-in on a plastic edge is not fixable to him.

    I have read solutions for plastic bumpers, unfortunately, our A4 edgy bumper is a thick piece that you could not reach in from behind and push the dent out. I tried to use a small device to suck it out (after heating the bumper with hair dryer), but the edge made it impossible for a complete seal, which lost the sucking power. Any thoughts on this? Otherwise, I guess I should convince myself that it is so small a dent or convince myself it is worth it to pay $400 - 500 for a small dent.
  • wilnerwilner californiaMember Posts: 34
    1999 audi a4 6v 2.8l quattro with a 118, 000 mileage. my ignition key is stuck. what is the problem? what is the solution? thank you.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hi mercops: Thanks for nice overview on sludging issues. I was aware of the problems here, and awhile back put a question on the forum regarding 1.8Ts that may ALREADY have possible sludge issues. I have a 2002 Passat 1.8T that I purchased with 55k miles a few years back. I did get rather extensive service records, and the oil was changed at various places, including independent shops AND dealers. Interestingly, the manual that came with the vehicle indicated that ANY high quality conventional or synthetic 5w-20 oil was OK to use in this car. Later, while reviewing various forum commentaries, I was shocked to hear that Audi/VW was requiring that ONLY VW/Audi-approved 0w-40 or 5w40 synthetic be used in these engines, contrary to what was stated in my manual. altair4 and shipo kindly advised that there was an addendum page that was issued a year or two after my manual was published, which, of course, I never received with the car. When I reviewed the service records, I noted that NONE of the shops provided any data about brand or weight of the oil used. To make matters worse, I had used Castrol and Valvoline conventional for the two changes I had already done. The vehicle still runs fine, but wonder if there might be some sludge in the engine that could cause problems, figuratively AND literally, down the road. Some writers have referred to a "de-sludging" procedure, and here are my questions: How is this done, can a DIY guy do it, is it a specialty procedure with special equipment/chemicals done by shops only, and has anyone tried any of the over-the-counter engine cleaners ("5 Minute Flush", etc.)? Thanks for feedback! vwdawg/audiphille1
  • mercopsmercops Member Posts: 34
    Be aware, that "de-sludging" an engine can create more and significant issues with the engine. This should not be considered a "do it yourself" job. De-sludging an engine can create issues related to loss of compression, bearing issues, oil seal issues, turbocharger, etc.

    Do you really think you have a sludge issue? As you note, you may have been using the wrong oil. As for the oil issue, Audi/VW oil is no better than a good brand name oil that meets the viscosity and API service requirements for the car. If you are using an oil meeting the API service requirements you are OK. If you are now using the correct viscosity and a good brand your at least headed in the right direction. Heres why:

    Synthetic oil breaks down at a much higher temperature than mineral/petroleum based oils. Say your synthetic (dependant upon brand) 0w-40 or 5w40 synthetic breaks down at 450 degrees F, your conventional mineral/petroleum based oil probably degrade around 275 degrees F. Synthetics tend to adhere and stay on surfaces whereas regular oil runs off and pools at the low point. Synthetics also protects better against corrosion and protects an over-heated engine. Every turbine engine in the worlds runs using synthetic oil because it can withstand the high operating temperatures. Now consider how hot an exhaust driven turbo-charger gets. The bearings are the weak point. That is why you must use the right grade and API type.

    Best bet is to determine if you really have a sludge issue in the first place, before attempting to "de-sludge". One of the first indicators of a problem would be decreased oil pressure which can result from clogged oil passages. This will undoubtedly eat your turbcharger first as it is the hottest part of the car that requires oil. If you have good oil pressure (no warning lights, etc.) you can also do a relatively easy check by removing the oil cap and visually looking to see if there is any major accumulation of sludge in the valve head oil valleys or on the valve arms themselves. If you are really enegetic and have a good set of tools, you can always remove the valve cover (requires a new gasket kit and sealer) and visually inspect the underside of the cover (it WILL have a hard varnish looking residue, not a big deal) to determine if there is a major build up. Also as your car has more than 50k on it you may as well clean the valve cover and replace the gasket as they do leak oil over time. This is also a good time to check the oil seals around the spark plug coils.

    As a reminder, use only approved oils, do not exceed the manufacturer's change interval (better yet, change it at 4,000 miles, use Mann filters) and make it a point to give the turbo a minute or two of cool-down time after high speed or highway driving, which will prevent the oil from "coking" in the turbocharger's bearings.

    Hope this helps, good luck, and don't forget the extended warranty being provided for sludge issues if you do have them.
  • cru_jones727cru_jones727 Member Posts: 1
    I'm thinking of buying a used 2005.5 Audi with 64,500 miles. Price is right, but I'm wondering if there is anything that I should be aware of for this call. Anybody have any advice or experience with this model? :confuse:
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hey cru: Sounds like a nice rig. You don't state which engine...2.0T or 3.2 V6? Quattro? I'm not real knowledgeable about newer Audis, but particularly with the turbo, I would not consider it unless the seller can verify that only VW/Audi- approved synthetic (Mobil 1 0w-40, etc.) has been used. Are you familiar with engine sludge? Check past Edmunds forum commentary on that. In fact, I would want ALL service records and a Carfax just to see what past problems may have occurred, such as "Check Engine", ABS, or other electronic stuff. I'm not sure of the timing belt spec for your engine, but a belt change might be recommended at 90k. I'm sure this is an "interference" engine...if the belt breaks, the engine is usually toast. Many owners opt for a change at 75-85k...figure at least $900-1,000. Final note...I would recommend bringing it into a trustworthy independent Audi repair shop and have them check all systems (electronics, filters, brakes, tires, fluid leaks, suspension, exhaust, cooling, etc.). You may be amazed to see what 30 minutes of VAG diagnostics and a check underneath will reveal...well worth one or two hundred bucks and may save you a lot of pain or provide an improved negotiating position. Good luck. vwdawg/audiphile1
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hi mercops: Thanks for your thorough overview of the sludge issue. My oil pressure seems to be OK, and I did previously do the visual check under the filler cap. I couldn't see anything nasty, but wasn't sure if this was actually a way to check for this problem. I will do an "under the valve cover" inspection to see if there's any problem there. Perhaps I'm worrying more than I need to, but the horror stories out there make me a bit nervous. Thanks again for all the hints, and be well. vwdawg/audiphile1
  • mercopsmercops Member Posts: 34
    No problem. What you may also consider, to put your mind to rest, is to perform a series of non-routine oil changes if you are handy with changing the oil yourself say at 1,000 mile intervals for the next 3,000 miles then doing normal oil changes after that.

    Cost outlay would only be for the oil (correct synthetic type & API recommendation) and good filtration. I try to stay with Mobil 1 Synthetic as it is a Group IV PAO synthetic oil and is probably one of the best on the market and is comparably priced.

    This process would help to flush any residual non-spec oil out of the engine and help to "clean" the internal parts of the engine.

    Again, one of the things that you can do to ensure you Audi keeps running is "routine" owner maintainance and a good inspection when changing the oil and servicing the car. These are the times to "catch" those small items before they worsen, plus you get to know your car and what is in need of attention.

    Good luck and let us know how you make out.

  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Can any Audi types tell me where I can locate the EGR on the above vehicle? I have a basic manual which provides instructions on cleaning/replacement, but no photos showing location. Thanks, vwdawg/audiphile1
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Thanks again for the additional info. Yes, I do almost all of my work myself, and I have used only Mobil 1 0w-40 in my Passat since I heard of the sludge problems. You are certainly correct, one does get to know his/her rig when one does the work. I bought my old '97 A4 almost two years ago, AZ car, Sun City condition with 80k. I have owned four V-dubs with fairly good experience, and have been generally happy with the '97. However, not knowing much about Audis, I have replaced four control arms, two tie rod ends and one wheel bearing myself, and had the timing belt done by a good shop. The car APPEARED to be very well maintained, but I discovered that the cooling system and cabin filter were disgustingly filthy, indicating that the prior owned wasn't very diligent. All in all, not too bad of an experience, but I now believe that a diagnostic/inspection prior to buying is a very worthwhile investment. Thanks again. vwdawg/audiphile1
  • mercopsmercops Member Posts: 34
    Sounds like a guy after my own heart, working on your own car! It's the only way you get to really know it's quirks!

    As for your comment relating to the prior owner not being diligent, Do not blame the owner. I own a 2002 A-4 Quattro that I took to the dealer religiously and I thought it was well maintained. After the car went off of warranty several problems popped up that sort of focused "lack of Dealer attention" to the car when it was in for normal servicing. Most notably, at 51k miles was the "non-service" of the air filter (engine air) that was not changed, (clogged with leaves, dirt & bugs) even though it was logged (at 40k miles) in the paperwork by the dealer that it had. Dealers have been know, especially when "performing" maintenance services during the first 50k to sometimes "pencilwhip" some of the items that need servicing. This is for several reasons...1 they get reimbursed by the parent company (AUDI-USA), 2. Their service dept. is usually understaffed and focusing on big money repairs, not the mundane items. So for the dealer its a win-win, low labor, easy reimbursement and the customer generally never questions it until the warranty runs out...then they are on their own.

    I said it earlier, best to crawl around inside your own car and be familiar with it by doing the routine maintenance yourself. Then you know it was done, it was done correctly, and you can take pride in making it run as it should.
  • mercopsmercops Member Posts: 34
    I looked in my manuals and did not find any info that relates to a 1997 model. I did however find online a reference to it for the previous model year (1996). Don't know if this helps but here is the website:
  • claytonsaudiclaytonsaudi Member Posts: 1
    I've read a few posts about the exterior door trim clips rusting and the trim falling off. I'm having that issue now. Anyone know where I can buy the trim and clips and what is involved in replacement if I do this myself?
  • puarieapuariea Member Posts: 1
    My son a Marine just back from Afghanistan, has a question. HE is out in Cali. I am in Minnesota. so I I need to explain it to him.He is trying to remove and replace a timing valve cover seal on his audi a4 1.8 ltr. turbo any help would be appreciated.
  • embeedueceembeeduece Member Posts: 260
    My Parking Brake alarm is going off; 3 beeps every time. Going to get it fixed when I do my scheduled maintenance this week or next. In the meantime is there a fuse I can yank, or anyway to temporarily disable the alarm? Thanks!

  • pholliephollie Member Posts: 45
    I've taken my car in on at least 4 occasions now over the last year. Its been going through oil like crazy. They've tried a number of fixes including one last Saturday when they said the oil plug needed replacing. Less than a week after that fix, I get the low oil light coming on and I find I'm about a quart low.

    I didn't see any drips under the car (like I had recently). This oil issue is getting to be a real pain and I'm considering pursuing Lemon Law relief.

    The car is is 2007 A4 2.0. Any advice?
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    2007? Sounds like a warranty item...get it into the dealer immediately and tell them to fix it (your warranty is still valid, right?). vwdawg/audiphile1
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hi: You're referring to the "valve cover", right? I just replaced the left side cover gasket on my 2.8 V6, and it was fairly easy. I'm not sure if the 1.8T is as simple, but if your son is a do-it-yourselfer, it would probably be most efficient if he picked up an Edmunds, Haynes or Chilton manual for his vehicle, and follow the step- by- step instructions. vwdawg/audiphile1
  • mercopsmercops Member Posts: 34
    First off welcome your son home for us and second, thank him for the great job he is doing!

    If you are referring to the "cylinder head cover" that covers the overhead cams, it is fairly straight forward for an A-4 with 1.8 turbo engine.

    Several "useful things to buy (have on hand) before you start:

    1-Several (6-8) 11/4 - 11/2 thin hose clamps to replace any of the original that must be cut or pried off)

    2-Small bunch (8-10) of plastic wire ties for replacing the ingition coil one that must be cut to remove the wires from the "cylinder head cover" and to replace any found broken.

    3-Clean repeat, clean rags

    4-Spray can of brake cleaner for cleaning the cover once removed from the engine

    5-Plastic baggies for the loose nuts, bolts, etc that you remove. As you remove a piece, keep all the associated nuts, bolts, etc with the piece you remove. If things are kept clean and orderly, re-assembly is a quick process. I usually tie the bag of items to the part and place out of the way.

    6-Gasket and sealing ring kit (plus specified gasket adhesive for the 2 cross over gaskets).

    7-Also find a digital camera works well to document each step of the process as you go, so you can refer to where certain nuts, bolts, wires and parts go, should you get confused.

    8. Air filter should you chose to change it while you are in there.

    For model years 2002-2007 engines, here is the process from the manual:


    1-Remove the engine cover (plastic cover with logo & 3 screws)

    2-Remove air cleaner cover, if equipped (plastic shield)

    3-Remove 2 screws that hold air cleaner snorkel to front cowling; disengage EVAP canister purge regulator valve N80 from the air duct (at back of air duct where it attaches to filter box).

    4-Remove air duct snorkel from air cleaner box by pulling unit to the back and pulling up.

    Note: If you want to change the air filter, now is a good time. This is done by: Loosen and disconnect any other hose or adapter that attaches to the air cleaner housing. Loosen the screws that hold the air cleaner halves together and swing the air cleaner half towards the engine while lifting up. this exposes the air filter. (do not be alarmed if you find a lot of dirt, bugs and leaves) Remove the filter, clean the filter case (vacuum works best) and replace filter unit, then reassemble.

    5-Remove crankcase breather line (it attaches to the rear of the "cylinder head cover" and is the top most metal pipe with 2 hose clamps, one on each end.

    6-Remove the heat shield and secondary air combustion (metal pipe located below first metal pipe removed)Remove as each piece separately (heat shield first, metal pipe, second)

    7-Remove the ground wire from the "cylinder head cover" (located between the front 2 spark plug ignition coils)

    8-Disconnect the ignition coil connectors (located on each spark plug coil unit)

    9-Move all wiring clear and pull out ignition coils by grasping firmly and slightly twisting to pull straight up.

    10-Release the 2 retaining clips for the top section of the toothed belt guard; loosen the hose that runs along the front from its retainers; clean the guard before reinstalling as well as clean the exterior of the "cylinder head cover" with a clean rag to remove any dirt or grease.

    11-Loosen (do not remove yet) the 9 nuts holding down the "cylinder head cover" (3 on the top (edge), 3 on the middle (inner) and 3 on the lower end (edge))

    12-Remove the 9 nuts holding the "cylinder head cover" and gently rap thew cover to loosen it with either a rawhide or rubber mallet (or in lieu, rap against a soft piece of wood with a regular hammer. Don't overdo it as the cover is aluminum and can be misformed easily); lift the cover straight up off the studs.

    13- The cover will now be removed. This is when you can clean it (I found "brake cleaner" works best) thoroughly. Remove and discard the gasket and sealing rings.


    1-Install in reverse order, paying attention to the following:

    2-Replace gaskets and sealing rings with new units.

    3-First tighten (snug enough but not over tightened) the inner nuts for the "cylinder head cover" starting in the middle working to the end; then tighten outer nuts in a diagonal sequence.

    4- Ensure the top section of the toothed belt guard is seated correctly.

    5-Tightening Specifications call for torque on "cylinder head cover" to cylinder head torque of 10Nm (you can get lb conversions at:

    Remember, take your time, proceed with direction and refer to your photos as you go and things will work out favorably.

  • tllmsodtllmsod Member Posts: 1
    On my way home from having my water pump replaced I noticed that my heater was now not working. Well above 2000 RPM it works great but below 2000 RPM it blows out completely cold air. Before the water pump repair the heater had always worked great. I call the repair shop they said that the heat core must be going out or an air bubble in the coolant. Any other possibilities? Audi A4 1.8 70K miles.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Yeah probably they didn't bleed the air out properly, or they didn't put enough coolant in.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    tllmsod: Who did the pump replacement? I suspect it was NOT an Audi specialist. It seems a very strange coincidence that this problem developed right after the pump work was done. The "air bubble" idea is reasonable, but don't get sucked into a heater core replacement ($1,200-1,500!!) until other corrective options are followed. Does this shop know that the one of the heater core hoses (located just forward of the firewall..I think it's the RIGHT side hose) must be pulled back so that the small hole in the hose is off of the nipple. The coolant reservoir must be raised about 4-6" which will cause any air in the core to be bled off. When coolant starts to geyser out of the hole, you will know that the air is out, and the hose must then be pushed back on to the nipple. Also, my understanding is that some Audis have a bleed screw at the front topside of the engine, but not sure which years (my '97 2.8 does NOT). One other sure that they reloaded the system with orange G12 coolant and nothing else. My advice, as always, is to use a trustworthy shop that specializes in German'll be happier in the long run. Let us know what you find out. audiphile/vwdawg
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    sometimes even the sign "german auto specialist" isn't good enough for Audis. The independent shop that works on Mercedes might not have a clue about Audis or Porsches.
  • mercopsmercops Member Posts: 34
    They definitely did not bleed the air out of the cooling system. This is a very dangerous situation as the engine will most likely also be "starving for coolant".

    If this is a A4 - 1.8 engine, you are also most likely experiencing an erratic reading on the temperature guage, in that it "sticks" and then jumps to a higher temperature. You can bleed most, but not all of the air from the cooling system yourself if you are handy.

    First routine (TAKES TWO PEOPLE, ONE IN THE CAR THE OTHER UNDER THE HOOD) is while the engine is cold, remove the coolant fill cap. Fill the reservoir to the required level (DO NOT OVERFILL). Start the engine and run the engine up to 1500 RPM for several minutes to heat the engine and coolant up to operating temperature, allowing the thermostat to open. Once it opens, the person under the hood should see the coolant level change as coolant is drawn into the engine and air is expelled. Maintain engine RPM's until most air is expelled, while topping off the fluid level. When most air has been expelled replace the coolant cap prior to dropping the engine RPM's to idle. (THIS IS IMPORTANT AS REDUCTION OF ENGINE RPM WITH CAP OFF WILL CAUSE COOLANT TO OVERFLOW THE RESERVOIR!!)

    Additionally, on most model years of A4 1.8 engines there is located under the "plastic engine cover" a coolant pipe that runs from front of the engine to the rear on the side of the engine near the intake manifolds. Located about halfway down is a "allen screw" located on top of the pipe. With the engine in idle, (AND PRIOR PROCESS COMPLETED) you can loosen the allen screw partially (DO NOT REMOVE COMPLETELY!) this will allow any remaining air out of the pipe and the coolant system. You may need to refill the coolant level after this process also.

  • emailmebpemailmebp Member Posts: 1
    My 2005.5 Audi A4 has been nothing but trouble. I'll enumerate the issues, but first...

    Sadly, I was warned about the lack of quality in Audi vehicles and the unusual nature of the issues that can occur. For a luxury vehicle, the issues that I have experienced should not have occurred. Luxury just doesn't mean quality materials and expensive designs. It is about building a vehicle to a standard in which the owners do not have to spend their time and money on fixes that are on the periphery of the vehicles functionality.

    I am not overly upset, I am disappointed in my purchase. I just feel stupid for ignoring my peers and purchasing an Audi. The quality just isn't there. The ownership and admission of legitimate issues isn't there.

    I know that you hear this a lot, but I don't see myself ever purchasing an Audi again or recommending someone to purchase one. The total cost of repair, the time spent fixing/waiting for repairs to take place seem the trump all positive things that an Audi is.

    When I bought this vehicle I was proud of driving it, but now I see it as one of the worst purchases I have ever made, and I bought my house in 2006 so that should tell you have much I regret this purchase.

    I should have kept my Honda. No ignition coil problems, no fuel intake fan issues, no turbo valve malfunctioning, no air bag indicator light illuminating and no unlatched trunk (and yes, this has all happened in 6 months).

    Audi, quality is not just meeting, but exceeding customer expectations. Whether it is a used or new vehicle, it's your name on that car. It's your reputation whether it was sold by an authorized dealer or Bob down the block. These issues would not have been caught by either. My expectations haven't even been exceeded, let alone met.

    So what are you going to do? What is Audi North America going to do? I am going to suggest that in all likelihood nothing. I am just one customer with a list of complaints/concerns. In a grand scheme of things, this email could easily be forgotten. I hope not. Regardless, it's been rather therapeutic.

    I hope this lands in the hands of someone who cares ; someone that has spent a great deal of money on something and felt slighted; someone with enough guts to do something about my concerns; someone to call, be an honest person and say 'these issues shouldn't be happening.'

    Quality is your legacy. Take Ownership.

  • kobe71kobe71 Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone.
    I am not much of a car guy, so I wanted to solicit your knowledge/expertise on what seems to be a problem with my 03 A4 3.0's engine.
    Not soon after I purchased my used A4 about 7 months ago, I noticed that my RPM goes up and down sometimes with noticeable "revving" noise when I put in in park. It doesn't do it all the time though. But now, I am noticing a similar problem while I am driving. When I slow down for a red light, I see my rpm goes up a tick or two as soon as it reaches the 1(1000) mark and comes down again. And I feel a slight push forward(but not to the point where I'd hit a car in front of me that's 5 feet away). I also notice a louder noise with car's engine. As I said, I really don't know too much about cars, so I wanted to ask for your kind feedback on what might be causing this. Does ignition coil have anything to do with this? or the fuel pump? Reason why I am asking this is because of the recent recalls regarding these two parts on my particular model and year.
    I'd appreciate any feedbacks. Kindly.
  • thankyouthankyou Member Posts: 1
    can any please give me a procedure and specs on how to change the timing belt
    on a A4 Audi.'96.
  • jebtdijebtdi Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 Audi A4 1.9 TDi (turbo diesel) Quattro wagon, which is almost perfect, except for an impossibly foggy, drippy, even iced windshield, that cannot be cleared.
    I've tried everything, AC on, high heat with full defrost fan, nothing works. (In fact the entire car is like a rainforest whenever the temp drops below +3 deg C, and is often worst around 0 deg C). Service has changed the filter, checked for leaves in the system, and other obvious fixes &#150; and no fix. They're clueless, no ideas.
    I heard something about a broken (puctured) heater core, which would leak anti-freeze and blow a mist of it onto the windshield. But we have plenty of heat, no problem. Any ideas??? Please help, this is dangerous. Thx.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    It could still be a very small leak in the heater core---barely a dampness would be enough to fog the windshield---however, you'd probably notice the coolant smell in the car at times (sweet smell).

    Has anyone checked for a clogged line in your AC evaporator drain?
  • rowlandjrowlandj Member Posts: 254
    If there is no leak then perhaps your system is stuck on recycling of the air inside the cabin. Meaning that no fresh air is being introduced into the heating system. By any chance do you have your system set to recycle by accident? If not, perhaps that vent is stuck and no outside air is being allowed in to the cabin.

    I know if you leave your HVAC setting on re-cycling condensation can build up.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    That's a good point that rowland makes.

    You wouldn't even need a real "leak" to cause condensation from a heater core---just a weeping or wetness would probably do it. Coolant loss could be minimal.

    The evaporator drain is important, since moisture is gathered up by the AC system (which operates when you are on defrost). If this gathered moisture has nowhere to go, it just sits there in the drip tray like a little swamp or fishtank.

    There could be new forms of life down there!! :P
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    That's a lot of info and photos and diagrams to post---you probably should have yourself a workshop manual or printable CD format for this work. This isn't something you want to have to do twice because of some missing info.

    You may also need to rent or borrow a holding tool and a puller---special tools for this job.

    Mechanic's time, with the right tools, is 4.0 hours.
  • nwalkleynwalkley Member Posts: 9
    Did you resolve this? I have the same problem, the gas tank stops filling when only half full. Check engine light on.

    Audi dealer has replaced fuel canister, to no avail. Now says needs to replace fuel floations(?) for $600, and if that does not work the whole fuel tank. This is a 2005 , of course past warranty.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hello all: 1997 A4, 2.8 Quattro, 100,000 miles. Engine started to miss, took car into shop for diagnosis. #6 plug misfire due to bad coil. Tech said cost would be about $700 for parts and labor, which of course, made me gag. Found part on out- of-state parts supplier's website for under $150, and I'll install it myself. I assume this is a simple "remove and replace" procedure, but does anyone have any specific cautions or critical knowledge that might not be included in my basic DIY manual? Thanks, vwdawg/audiphile1
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    No but one hopes this cheap coil is up to the job. Does it have a brand name or ??? Also was the bad coil actually identified by testing it hands-on, or are we just working off a trouble code description?

    What I'm driving at is the "return policy". If you guess wrong, do you own the coil or what?
  • igiturigitur Member Posts: 1
    Putting a new timing belt on my Audi A4 with an ADP engine code.

    How come the timing belt installation is slightly different on this model.

    With it insisting that the line on the crankshaft pulley must be aligned with the dot on the intermediate shaft sprocket.

    When the orginal came of the engine was running perfectly but the dot did not match.

    On other engine codes it says not to worry as it only drives the oil pump.

  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hi Shiftright: Thanks for raise some good points. I brought the car into my local repair shop. I think they were working from a diag code, but not sure what if anything else they did to verify. They were sure enough that they were ready to order the new coil, but I just can't handle $700 for the repair. I have ordered parts from this supplier before, and they seem to have a very good rep among other Audi owners, so I am comfortable with them. Their written return policy seems fair...I'll see what happens if I have to do that. Even considering this cheapie, the markup on these parts must be phenomenal. I'll let you know if anything goes wrong. Thanks! vwdawg/audiphile1
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Parts prices at Audi dealers can be scary. Well good, if you know the reputation of your source.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Member Posts: 162
    Hello Shiftright and others: '97 A4 2.8Q...started igntion coil replacement last night. Coil R&R is certainly straightforward, but the challenge is to determine where the two wiring leads end up. Both of them run from the coil downward, toward the rear of the engine, alongside the left cylinder bank. Visibility is limited, but I found that one lead ends up at a connector panel mounted on the left side of the firewall. The other lead makes a right turn around the backside of the engine block and seems to hook into some sort of plastic protective (heatshield?) tube. Can't see where it emerges, but I did note that there is an identically shaped and colored 3-prong plug which connects to an electronic part (transistor?) at the top, right side of the engine. Is this the proper connection point? Thanks! vwdawg/audiphile1
  • jebtdijebtdi Member Posts: 5
    Rowland, Mr Shiftright
    Thanks for the suggestions, will look into these and see (hopefully, through the fog) what happens.
  • sirkulasirkula Member Posts: 1
    I have 2008/2009 Audi A4 2.0 TDI. I haven't been driveing it for a few days, and now it's making this loud "peep" sound every 1 min.. It makes this sound even when Car is turned off, locked and parked in garague and also it makes this sound while engine is ON. Can't figure what is it...
  • nwalkleynwalkley Member Posts: 9
    My 4.5 year old 2.0/quattro, 62,000 miles, started having problems when filling the tank - would click off when not full. When I brought the car in to the dealer (after warranty expired) after "check engine" light came on I was told there were 2 things wrong - coolant system problem and evaporation system problem. The car had been in there a few weeks earlier for a regularly scheduled check and none of this was apparent then. After fixing the first to the tune of about $550, and the second for another $500, the gas problem was not fixed. Then they tried replacing the "floaters", $600. Still not working. Was told new fuel tank needed - for which Audi would absorb $1500 of the $3000 estimate. $3600 later, all seems fine. Anyone else with this model/age car have this problem? Seems to me this should not be happening on a car this young. I love the car but after this may not buy another. P.S. the 2010 loaner I had for 3 weeks during repairs was even better to drive.
  • mercopsmercops Member Posts: 34
    You may want to check out two prior threads related to problems when filling up your gas tank. Could be that your problem was related to gas pressure in the tank causing the nozzle to shut off prematurely. It appears that there is a spring acuated shut off in the filler neck that will cause this problem. Here are the items in the Message board:

    Message #1707 Re: Gas tank problems [leejamesk] by jweaver1 Dec 30, 2007 (6:10 pm) I had a problem with my ex- 2003 A4-3.0 in that the gas pump would also shut off. I pulled the nozzle out and stuck a pencil into the filler tube, and could feel (and smell) the fuel vapors escaping from my fuel tank. After the pressure was relieved, I could continue to fill the tank. It finally happened when ...

    Message #1685 Re: Gas tank problems [samaudi] by leejamesk Dec 19, 2007 (5:45 am) I had this similar problem and it is the little spring-flap inside the Audi fill-pipe that blocks the gas from going-in. You need to really push the gas filler deep into the pipe so as to ensure the ...

    Also, don't place much faith in your dealership, especially when they want to "split" the difference in a repair especially when fuel vapor recovery (evaporation recovery) and emission related items may be covered under the Federal Emissions Warranty Law. You may want to check the Fed Website for more specific info as I believe it covers vehicles for 8 years/80,000 miles.
  • a4enthusiast7a4enthusiast7 Member Posts: 3
    there is a leak coming from something next to the front right tire, the fluid is dark brown, prob. oil, and is dripping onto the ground next to the tire. I do not remember running over anything, any ideas on what could be causing this?
Sign In or Register to comment.